≡× MENU

• Interior
• Window
• Walls
• Projects
• The buildings

High-quality sewerage for a private home: how to properly implement the project on your own. We install sewerage in a private house with our own hands Sewerage design in a private house

Hardly modern man can imagine his existence without the comfort and usual benefits of existence, therefore, when arranging a frequency house or cottage, first of all, it is necessary to properly arrange the water supply and, of course, the sewer system in compliance with all sanitary and hygienic standards.

The installation of a sewerage system allows you not only to use the bathroom, but also to connect sinks, a dishwasher or washing machine and bring life in a suburban area closer to living in a city apartment.

Installation of a sewer system is a labor-intensive process and requires a serious approach; moreover, it is best to design a sewer system for initial stage construction of private buildings.

Before starting work, it is necessary to install a water supply and only then install the sewerage system, adhering to a strict sequence.

Main types of sewer systems

Modern sewer systems are classified into three main types:

• Internal, where all communications are located inside the house.
• External, in which communications are located outside the house, which include cesspools, treatment stations, cesspools, septic tanks.
• The most important stage is the installation of a sewer system into the house, since all the main elements and connections to the main highways will be located inside the building. At this stage, proper arrangement is very important, which will ensure the performance and smooth functioning of the entire system.

Materials that will be needed when installing a sewer system

The basis of any type of sewer system is a common riser into which waste water flows. Everything that passes through the riser enters the laid external sewer system and is drained into a sump, which is located on the site.

Necessary materials:

1. Pipes, the number of which must be calculated in advance.
2. Bends for the sewer system, the size of which must correspond to the diameter of the pipes.
3. Tees of the required style, which are necessary for branching the system.
4. Reducers and adapters for connecting pipes various diameters.
5. Audits to monitor the functioning of the sewer system and access for cleaning it in case of blockage.
6. Plugs for sockets that cover unused holes.
7. Special fasteners for fixing sewer pipes.
8. Sealant - plumbing silicone in pipes and a gun, which is necessary for its application.

Important! For the riser you will need enough pipe large diameter(from 100 mm), since this pipe diameter is used to drain wastewater from the toilet. Install the riser in the very corner of the bathroom or in a pre-arranged shaft.

In addition, it is important to prepare all the tools and materials necessary for the work so that everything is at hand during the work.

The drain pipe must be well fixed. It is also necessary to level the future locations and joints that will include outlet pipes from sinks, toilets, and bathtubs.

To ensure better sealing of pipe joints and avoid leaks, the joints are lubricated with grease or silicone.

Since when arranging a sewer system they most often use plastic pipes, it is necessary to ensure their reliable fixation. how more reliable fastening, the lower the likelihood of deformation of sewer pipes, since the mass of filled pipes is much greater than empty ones.

Self-assembly of a sewer system

It is quite simple to install a sewer system with your own hands, even without certain skills and experience. The main thing is to maintain the sequence of work, acquire quality materials, and prepare the necessary tool for the job.

Important! If you are still unsure of your abilities, you can always invite professional craftsmen who will carry out all sewer installation work quickly and efficiently. However, during their work, you can monitor the progress of the work, gaining experience and at the same time monitoring quality.

It is very important that the drain pipes coming from the toilet or bathtub exit at an angle, which will prevent them from clogging and ensure the normal level of system performance. The angle of inclination for each meter should be from 2 to 4 degrees.

You should not purchase corrugated pipes for arranging a sewage system - give preference better than pipes with an internal nasty surface. It is recommended to fix the pipes immediately after connecting and joining. To do this, you need to build a box or trench from plasterboard or other waterproof material. This design will allow for reliable fixation and a rigid system that will be resistant to mechanical damage and water displacement.

Important! When installing a transition between a vertical drain and a horizontal drain, it is advisable to install a connecting element with an angle of 90 degrees in this place. This will help to significantly reduce the load on components and pipes from pressure when draining water.

To install the transition unit, you need to dig a deep hole of the appropriate diameter. This is also convenient because, if necessary, you can install an inspection coupling, which will allow you to clean the system if it becomes clogged.

At the next stage, the drain line is taken outside the house. make a hole in the foundation of the required size and cut out a corner at an angle of 15 degrees and then set a constant level of inclination of the drain pipe, inclusive of its entry into drain hole no more than 2-3 degrees.

You should not make a smaller slope or, conversely, tilt the pipe too much. Small level the slope will slow down the passage of wastewater, and with a strong slope, wastewater will flow too quickly through the sewer pipes, leaving solid fragments on the walls, which will soon lead to blockage and disruption of the functioning of the sewer system.

Important! If the location is too close, the foundation may be damaged over time, and if the distance is too large, it can cause stagnation in the system, especially if it has many joints and turns.

At the final stage, it is necessary to dig a trench for laying the pipe, the depth of which depends on the climatic and weather conditions in your region. If winters are harsh and cold, the trench should be deep enough to prevent freezing and damage to the integrity of the pipes. For greater safety, you can insulate the pipes with insulation before the final filling of the soil.

It is equally important to install several small ones along the entire length of the sewer pipes. inspection wells, which will allow for an audit of the sewer system in case of congestion. Immediately before laying sewer pipes, it is recommended to concrete the trench. The bottom of the trench should be as dewy as possible without changes in height.

The system is one of the most important and expensive engineering communications of a private residential building. The efficiency of operation, the complexity of installation, the number and cost of elements of this system depend on the elaboration of the project. The graphic part of the design documentation, in accordance with which a sewer system is installed in a private house with your own hands - a diagram of the location of plumbing devices, connections and revisions. This article provides information about regulatory requirements and the main problems in drawing up layout diagrams, criteria for selecting sewerage equipment and features of its installation.

Read in the article

Rules for drawing up a sewerage diagram with your own hands in a private house

When drawing up a sewerage diagram, it is necessary to take into account regulatory requirements, both sanitary and construction:

• TKP 45-4.01-51-2007“Water supply and sewerage systems for residential estates”;
• SanPiN 42-128-4690-88 « Sanitary rules maintenance of territories of populated areas";
• SanPiN 4630“Sanitary rules and standards of protection surface waters from pollution";
• SNiP 30-02-97“Planning and development of territories of gardening associations of citizens, buildings and structures.”

When determining the volume and capacity of sewer pipelines, it is necessary to focus on the average water consumption per person. Septic tanks and cesspools should not be located closer than 4 m to the border of the neighboring property and 15 m to the drinking water.

The diagram should describe the mechanism for connecting internal and external sewerage, the type and structure of the septic tank, what products and equipment will be used, its technical specifications. Based on the list of materials used, the cost is calculated. The graphic part must be linked to the plan of the house and garden plot, where the places for laying pipelines and installing plumbing products will be indicated.

Key Factors Influencing Layout and Design

In addition to calculating the average daily water flow, the following factors influence the design of the sewerage scheme:

• Volume of salvo release— peak load on the sewerage system (as a rule, occurs in the morning and evening hours), which depends on the number of plumbing fixtures installed in the house;
• Wastewater treatment plant performance. Depending on this indicator, one of three options for removing treated wastewater is selected:

1. up to 5 m 3 /day – discharge into the soil. Provided that the soil filtration coefficient has comparable indicators, and the discharge point is 1 m above the groundwater level;
2. up to 0.3 m 3 /day – periodic removal by special vehicle is allowed;
3. The discharge of wastewater into a reservoir is regulated not only by its quantity, but also by the degree of purification in accordance with the requirements of SanPiN 4630.

• M material for the manufacture of treatment facilities: , fiberglass, metal, various polymers ( , polyethylene). From technical characteristics the material depends on the design of the structure, installation method, further maintenance and operation;
• Providing power supply. Modern highly efficient treatment plants are equipped with various types of compressors and aerators. They are based on electronic control units to which temperature and liquid level detectors are connected;
• Topology construction site – terrain, slope direction, proximity to water bodies and the presence of potential disposal sites for treated sewer water;
• Geodesy of the construction site– the type and structure of the soil, the depth of its freezing, as well as the depth of groundwater are determined. The complexity and cost depend on these factors. installation work, the need for additional or purchase of a sealed septic tank with a closed cleaning cycle.

Types of sewerage structures and features of their functioning

In accordance with TKP 45-4.01-51-2007, the following types of treatment structures may be used for the installation and installation of sewerage in a private house:

• septic tank;
• filter well;
• underground filtration field;
• filter trench;

Important! In most cases, the listed structures should be used in conjunction with a septic tank, which carries out primary rough cleaning.

Septic tank

The most common when arranging a sewer system for a private home with your own hands are two types of septic tanks:

Storage containers are sealed plastic containers. They are affordable, do not require connection to the power supply network, and can be installed in close proximity to drinking water sources/wells. Significant disadvantage is the need for constant pumping of wastewater, therefore, constant payment for sewerage services.

With soil purification. Primary treatment of sewage water is carried out in sealed containers, where large fecal fractions settle to the bottom and are exposed to anaerobic bacteria. “Clarified” wastewater, the degree of purification of which does not exceed 40%, is pumped forcibly or flows by gravity into the filtration facilities, from which, after the final stage of cleaning, they seep into the ground.

Filter well

The wastewater entering the tank passes through a gravel filter and through it seeps to the bottom and perforated walls, and from there into the ground.

1. pipe;
2. Plate bumper;
3. Pipe for the flow of wastewater.

For the arrangement, solid or perforated reinforced concrete rings with a height of 0.9 m are used, internal diameter at least 1.0 m and a wall thickness of 8 cm. The filter layer is medium-fraction gravel, which must be periodically removed, washed and returned to the container to avoid excessive soil contamination. The material used for making the walls is often large-diameter plastic (with holes in the masonry) or car tires. Such options are much cheaper, but significantly reduce the life of the structure.

Underground filtration field

The site is laid with perforated walls. Through them, wastewater is distributed over a large drainage area and is absorbed into the soil, passing more evenly and in small quantities through the gravel filter. This method involves a significant amount of excavation work. When determining the depth of the pit, it is necessary to take into account:

• The thickness of the gravel filter is 20÷50 cm;
• The diameter of perforated pipes is 20÷50 cm;
• The distance from the ground surface to the upper edge of the filtration pipeline is 50 cm.

In addition, when forming the bottom of the pit, it is necessary to provide a slope from the septic tank along the flow direction of 2 cm for each linear meter. The distance between the pipes depends on the type of soil. For sand with a filtration coefficient of 5÷25 m/day, 2.5 m. For coarse sand filler with a filtration coefficient of 25÷100 m/day and a gravel filter with a filtration coefficient of 75÷300 m/day, the distance can be reduced to 2 m.

At the ends of filtration pipelines, it is imperative to install them with a diameter of 100 mm and a height of at least 70 cm above the ground surface.

Filter trench

A filter trench performs the same functions as an underground filtration field: collection of wastewater after a septic tank, its additional purification and discharge into the ground. A significant difference is the vertical arrangement of the pipes. This method is no less effective and can be implemented on a much smaller area. Allowed only in areas with a deep groundwater table, since the trench must also have significant depth.

The total length of the pipeline and the number of pipes and trench depth are calculated using the same methodology that is used for underground filtration fields. The width of the trench is assumed to be 0.5 m, the distance between the upper and lower pipes is 0.8÷1 m, the maximum length of the pipeline is 30 m. If it is necessary to construct 2 or more trenches, the distance between them must be at least 3 m.

Components of the WWTP scheme

The most effective for a private home are sewer systems related to deep installations. biological treatment. They are sealed containers divided into several functional compartments. As a rule, they have a vertical orientation, can be installed with your own hands and do not take up much space. The principle of operation of such installations is the interaction of fecal matter and organic pollutants with anaerobic bacteria in an environment saturated with air using aeration installations.

Important! Biological treatment plants require some maintenance. First of all, it is necessary to maintain an optimal population of anaerobic bacteria by periodically adding a special concentrate to the appropriate compartment. Do not use overly aggressive products in everyday life chemical substances which can destroy bacteria. The installation must be connected to the power supply.

The cleaning process is carried out in stages:

1. In the first section, which occupies the largest volume, pollutants are separated into fractions. Heavy and insoluble substances sink to the bottom. This chamber must be periodically cleaned using a vacuum cleaner;
2. In the second section (aeration tank), wastewater is enriched with atmospheric oxygen using the aeration method. Here, the active phase of cleaning occurs using biological decomposition using bacteria;
3. In the third section, the settling tank, activated sludge is settled;
4. From the fourth section, where water is supplied by a jet pump from the secondary settling tank, completely purified water is discharged from the treatment device through an overflow pipe or drain pump.

Installation of internal sewerage in a private house - diagram and recommendations

The internal sewage system includes the following elements;

• Plumbing fixtures: , ;
• Sewer riser and ventilation pipe attached to it;
• Branch lines;
• Check valve.

Horizontal pipelines are installed with a slope. When installing sewerage in a private house, the standard slope indicators are often neglected, doing it “by eye”, significantly exceeding the recommended coefficient. As a result, sewage solids do not have time to be washed out of the pipes along with water and accumulate inside, creating traffic jams.

Table of dependence of the slope on the diameter of sewer pipes for a private house pipes

Diameter, mm	Optimal slope	Minimum permissible slope
50	0,035	0,025
100	0,02	0,012
150	0,01	0,007
200	0,008	0,003

The connection of branch pipelines to the riser is carried out using oblique tees and crosses. Installation of sewer pipes, utility and technical rooms is allowed open method. Fastening is carried out using special couplings with dowels, or the pipes are placed on supports. In residential premises, as a rule, hidden installation is performed. Sewage pipelines are located in technical niches and shafts, boxes, under the floor. To carry out maintenance - periodic cleaning, the main riser and sewer drain lines are equipped with inspections in accordance with the standards:

• Sewer riser on the lower and upper floors of a private house;
• Branch lines to which three or more plumbing fixtures are connected;
• At pipeline bends (this is where solid insoluble waste residues most often accumulate);
• On leprous horizontal sections every 8 m.

Video of installing a sewer system in a private house with your own hands, correct styling sloped pipes:

Which pipes to choose

The optimal pipe material for sewerage in a private home is polymers. Products made from them are light in weight and can be installed by hand without the assistance of assistants. The industry produces a large number of adapters, tees, crosses and couplings across the entire range of used diameters. Installation is carried out without using specialized equipment and does not require long training or special skills. The approximate material is not subject to corrosion and aggressive influences household chemicals, is different long term operation. The following polymers are most often used for sewerage in a private home:

• PVP (polyethylene high density) - affordable, but sensitive to temperature changes. The maximum operating temperature should not exceed +40°C;
• PP()– has good performance characteristics, maximum operating temperature is +100°C, withstands aggressive chemicals and significant mechanical stress, and has a fairly high cost;
• PVC (polyvinyl chloride)- material with optimal combination cost and quality. Can be used for both external and internal sewerage. Impact resistant ultraviolet radiation, mechanical influences of medium intensity, temperatures up to +70°C. However, in the process long-term operation Plaque may appear on the walls, which leads to clogging.

Pipe connection

The most common method of installing a plastic pipeline is a socket connection. It is performed if the pipe or fitting has a corresponding structural element - a socket. The connection process is as follows:

• The bell and smooth end are cleaned of dirt;
• It is inserted into a special recess inside the bell rubber compressor ensuring tightness of joints;
• Lubricate the smooth end of the other pipe with silicone grease or regular liquid soap, after which it can be easily inserted into the socket until it stops;

Important! It is necessary to provide for the possibility of thermal expansion. To do this, a mark is made on the smooth part of the pipe with a marker, after which it is pulled out 1 cm from the socket.

Stages of work on installing a sewer system in a private house with your own hands

The sequence of arranging the sewer system of a private house can be divided into several stages:

1. Determination of the amount of wastewater, volume and productivity of the septic tank;
2. Determining the location of the septic tank on personal plot in accordance with sanitary standards;
3. Installation of an internal sewer network;
4. Installation of external treatment facilities;
5. Laying pipelines and connections for external treatment facilities and internal sewerage.

Calculation of septic tank volume

Table of water consumption standards for a private residential building.

Type of housing and type of life activity	Consumption, l/day per person
Residential building equipped with water supply and sewerage system without bathtub	125÷160
A residential building equipped with a water supply and sewerage system with a bathroom and a local one looks like this: V = n × Q × 3 / 1000 , Where V – volume of the septic tank in m3; n – number of permanent residents; Q – average water consumption per person in m3; 3 – number of days of a complete cleaning cycle (according to SNiP). For example, with an average consumption of 0.2 m 3 / person / day, taking into account a three-day reservation, for a family of 4 people you will need a septic tank with a volume of 2.4 m 3. To make calculations easier, we have developed a convenient calculator especially for our readers. Calculator for calculating the required volume of a septic tank based on the number of residents
For year-round use of a private residential building	During seasonal use of a country house
Gravel, crushed stone	0.15÷0.20	0.18÷0.24
Coarse sand	0.10÷0.15	0.12÷0.18
	0.05÷0.10	0.06÷0.12

Table of the volume of household waste per 1 linear meter of underground filtration field pipeline:

Composition of the filtrate	Maximum volume of treated sewage, m 3 /day per 1 linear meter of drainage pipeline
	Up to 500	500÷600	More than 600
Gravel, crushed stone, coarse sand	0.012÷0.025	0.0096÷0.0225	0.0084÷0.02
Fine sand, sandy loam	0.006÷0.020	0.0048÷0.18	0.0042÷0.016

Table of the volume of domestic waste per 1 linear meter of filtration trench pipeline.

Do-it-yourself internal sewerage wiring in a private house

The efficiency of the sewer system of a private house, as well as the ease of arranging it with your own hands, depends on the layout of the entire structure. It is considered optimal if the kitchen and bathroom are located as close to each other as possible; this minimizes the length of the sewer pipeline and allows you to connect all plumbing fixtures to one riser. When installing the internal sewage system of a private house with your own hands, you must consider the following factors:

• it is necessary to connect directly to the main riser of the sewer system at the minimum possible distance from the pipe, this will reduce the likelihood of blockage of the plumbing fixture;
• It is recommended to connect other plumbing fixtures to the sewer network above the level of the toilet connection, this will eliminate the possibility of fecal matter getting into the drain lines;
• The pipeline must be rotated using several angle bends. For example, two at 45° or three at 30°, this will provide a smoother turn and avoid clogging;
• The sewer riser must be led to the roof, where a fan hood is mounted on it, providing a sewer system inside; Methods for connecting a toilet to a sewer riser

  Installation and equipment of a sewerage tank

  To install a septic tank, regardless of its model, a pit is dug with dimensions slightly larger than the dimensions of the tank. A sand cushion about 10 cm thick is placed at the bottom of the pit. It is compacted and leveled as much as possible. To install septic tanks in a pit, it is recommended to use a lifting construction equipment, since some models have quite a significant weight. In most cases, fastening elements are provided on the housing. After installation, the container must be leveled. Depending on the design, it may be necessary to install neck extensions.

  Article

Nowadays, housing without amenities suits few people, even if it is located in rural areas. In addition to the supplied water, the outflow of used water and, in addition, fecal matter must be organized. Thus, without the presence of sewerage in country house the people living in it will not have proper comfort. It is not a luxury at all, but really a necessity, and the solution - installing a sewer system in a house (wooden or brick - it doesn’t matter) is a completely doable task if you approach the matter with all responsibility.

Internal and external systems

All sewerage installation work comes down to designing the internal and outdoor system.

Internal involves the installation of a riser, a drain pipe, pipe distribution to wet rooms (kitchen, toilet, bathroom (shower), etc.).

External, or external, is that part of communications that is located outside the house. In particular, its arrangement involves supplying pipes to a homemade septic tank (storage or with a filtration field) or to a deep cleaning station (a fairly expensive ready-made solution). Naturally, if it is possible to discharge wastewater into centralized system the task is simplified. But in our case, we will talk specifically about an autonomous system with effective wastewater treatment in a septic tank; we will not consider any primitive cesspools - this relic of the past - we will not consider.

Internal sewerage diagram

Of course, it’s worth starting with the diagram. Already at the stage of designing a house, it is better to think about ensuring that all the so-called wet rooms are as close to each other as possible - this approach will subsequently simplify the arrangement of internal sewage systems. The pipe layout in a private house is individual and can look like anything. Below we present one of the floor plan options.

It is taken into account that to drain wastewater from the toilet it is necessary to use pipes with a diameter of 100–110 mm, and their recommended total length is 1,000 mm. For the so-called gray drains entering the risers from the bathroom and kitchen, polypropylene (PP) or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) pipes with a diameter of 50 mm are used. The network turns are carried out by combining two plastic elbows with a 45-degree bend, which minimizes the risk of blockage that will have to be removed during sewer operation (read how to deal with this scourge). It is cheaper and more reliable to rely on PP or PVC pipes, since they are cheaper, more reliable and durable than cast iron ones. In addition, the installation of the internal system when using them is significantly simplified.

The most important thing in design is determining the future location of the riser or collector pipe. From this alone, as they say, we will “dance” further.

But still, let’s talk in more detail about how to develop a sewerage system for a private house on your own. After all, with its help we will be able to objectively judge how much and what (materials and plumbing equipment) is needed to construct the system as a whole. It is better to carry out all the work using ordinary checkered sheets, but it is still better to buy a couple of sheets of graph paper. We will also need a sharp pencil, a ruler and a tape measure. The sequence of work on drawing up a diagram can be represented as follows:

• draw up a house plan to scale (use the existing one or go through all the rooms with a tape measure and take all dimensions);
• determine the location of the riser(s);
• on each floor, in accordance with our needs, we conditionally depict plumbing fixtures (at this stage it is advisable to know how to connect them);
• we depict on the plan the pipes from plumbing fixtures to the riser and fittings (connecting elements such as bends, tees, etc.);
• repeat all the above operations for each floor of the house;
• we determine the dimensions of the riser and the fan pipe, which will be discussed below;
• sum up the lengths of all internal sewerage pipes up to the outlet;
• We draw up a diagram of the external sewage system of the house, which includes pipes from the outlet to the septic tank or deep biological wastewater treatment station and takes into account the requirements of SanPiN 2.1.4.1110-02 and SNiP 2.04.03-85.

Pipes

The selection of pipes for external and internal systems differs. Today, when laying an internal system (intra-house wiring), PVC and PP pipes of a characteristic type are predominantly used gray. Most often with a diameter of 110 mm (for risers and sun loungers), 50 and 40 mm - for draining wastewater from plumbing fixtures.

Concerning external system, then most often pipes intended for laying underground, for example from the outlet to a septic tank or a deep biological wastewater treatment plant, have a characteristic orange color. This color can be explained very simply: the bright red color is more noticeable in the ground than the others. But it’s not just the color that distinguishes pipes for external sewerage– the requirements for the material will also be different: these pipes have greater rigidity, because they will have to withstand a significant load from the ground. There are even more durable products, such as double-layer corrugated pipes. But when installing a sewer system in a private house, the depth of the pipeline is usually small (no more than 3 m, and most often up to 2 m), so there is no point in chasing the strength of the pipes. The most common diameter of red pipes is 110 mm, which is quite enough for adequate drainage of wastewater.

Below is a table with the properties of pipes made of various materials. There are not all solutions here - only the most popular ones.

Characteristics of sewer pipes

Material	Purpose, pros and cons of pipes
Cast iron	+ Strong and durable, able to withstand heavy loads – Fragile, heavy and expensive; During operation, the pipe rusts from the inside and becomes rough, which can lead to blockages.
Polypropylene	+ Flexible and lightweight, which makes them most popular when installing an internal sewerage system (usually gray pipes); tolerate high wastewater temperatures well – Not observed when used as intended
Polyvinyl chloride	+ The same as for cast iron pipes; light and inexpensive. Used primarily for laying external sewerage systems (easily recognizable by their predominantly orange color) – They do not tolerate high temperatures of wastewater; more likely to crack than bend (fragile)

Pipe laying

One of the most labor-intensive processes in the arrangement autonomous sewerage– laying and routing of pipes. If you decide to cope with this without the help of professionals, be sure to involve at least one assistant - not only the speed, but also the quality of the work depends on this. Well, when you’re done, don’t be lazy to check the tightness of the system by pouring clean tap water and only after checking all the seams, begin full operation of the system.

Pipe connection

As we have already said, the simplest option involves using sewer PVC or PP pipes. Today, these products are presented in a wide range, so you can easily find elbows, tees, revisions and plastic pipes, which, thanks to the presence of rubber cuffs at their joints, are connected easily and reliably. Perfectionists can additionally treat the joint with plumbing sealant, for example, silicone-based. In places where pipes pass through ceilings and walls, sleeves must be installed.

Let's talk about the slope of the pipes right away. The relevant SNiP (2.04.01-85 and 2.04.03-85) clearly states that the angle of inclination of pipes in a free-flow system depends on their diameter. So, for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, it is necessary to create a slope of 3 cm/m, for pipes with a diameter of 100–110 mm – 2 cm/m. Keep this in mind, because you will have to place different points of the horizontal pipeline at different heights.

Sewer outlet

If you do not want to face the problem of a discrepancy between the external and internal systems, then you should start installing a sewer system in your house with work on the outlet. The outlet is the boundary part of the system that connects the pipes exiting the house (the riser or risers) with the pipe leading to the septic tank.

The outlet is installed through the thickness of the foundation at a depth below the soil freezing depth (SFD) characteristic of your region. It can be made even higher, provided that work is carried out to ensure thermal insulation of the pipe. This is necessary in order to avoid freezing of the sewer system. The owners of country houses who were able to use the toilet only in March - May, when the pipes thawed, can tell you what this entails.

If this was not taken care of during the construction of the foundation, then it is necessary to punch a hole in the foundation sufficient for the subsequent installation of the outlet pipe with the sleeve. The latter is nothing more than a piece of pipe with a diameter of 130–160 mm, i.e. larger than the diameter of the sewer pipe. The sleeve must protrude from both sides of the foundation slab by at least 150 mm.

Essentially, at this stage it is necessary to make a hole (if one is not provided) in the foundation and insert a pipe with a sleeve into it. It is important that the diameter of the outlet pipe is not less than the diameter of the riser pipe. The sleeve itself allows you to set the slope point of the pipe to the septic tank: 2 cm for every meter. Now you have a rough idea of ​​how you can improve drainage from your home.

Installation of riser and pipe routing

Considering the recommended dimensions of the pipe running from the toilet to the riser (1,000 mm), it is better to place the riser in the toilet. Installation can be open or hidden, depending on whether the pipes are mounted next to the walls (fastened with clamps, hangers, etc.) or in special niches, channels, walls or boxes.

To connect the riser to sewer pipes, oblique tees are used. Pipes of different diameters are connected through adapters. At the intersection of pipes from the shower, bathtub, and sinks, a collector pipe with a diameter of 100–110 mm is installed. It is imperative to take care of the installation of so-called water seals. They will protect your sense of smell from less than pleasant odors.

Important! On each floor, a revision (special tee) is installed in the riser, thanks to which, if necessary, the blockage can be cleaned. To protect yourself from labor-intensive sewer cleaning work, it is recommended to install a cleaning device after each turn of the pipes.

Fan pipe outlet

An important role is played by the installation and removal of the vent pipe. It serves:

• for ventilation of the sewer system, which is mandatory for the effective operation of the septic tank;
• increasing the durability of sewerage;
• support atmospheric pressure inside the system, which, in turn, avoids air rarefaction and water hammer.

The drain pipe is nothing more than a continuation of the riser: it leads to the roof of the house. It is connected to the riser, having previously mounted an inspection on it. Next, the vent pipe is led into the attic at convenient angles as shown in the diagram below. Any of these ventilation schemes can be used in private houses with an attic.

Important! You should not simplify your work and combine sewer ventilation (fan pipe) with the actual ventilation of the house or, God forbid, with a chimney. Moreover, the outlet of the vent pipe must be made as far as possible from balconies and windows (a distance of at least 4,000 mm), with a height indentation from the roof of 700 mm. Again, the house ventilation, chimney and sewer ventilation outlets must be located at different levels.

Let us summarize all the above information about pipe installation in a private house:

• at the first stage it is necessary to draw up detailed diagram wiring in such a way as to minimize the distance from the riser to plumbing fixtures;
• the diameter of the pipes going to the riser should increase as additional devices are connected. It is not allowed to change the diameter downward;
• you need to remember a simple rule: devices with a large outlet are located closer to the riser than those with a smaller outlet diameter. The toilet should be closest to the riser;
• the sewerage layout in a private house must exclude the presence of sharp corners, and the pipes must be laid with a certain slope;
• in places where blockages are expected to form, inspections and cleaning should be provided;
• The wiring diagram must necessarily include a fan pipe for system ventilation.

External (external) network

It is difficult to overestimate the importance correct device external part of the sewer system of the house. But if you want to make full use of your water, you should think about effective purification. Of course you can buy ready septic tank or, as it is also called, a deep wastewater treatment station. Or purchase autonomous units, for example, the reviews on the use of the “Tank” septic tank are quite good (see for yourself). But you can make a septic tank with your own hands, saving a decent sum of money. The installation of external and internal sewerage systems in your household must be approached with equal responsibility: there are issues of your comfort and potential fines from environmentalists, but, most importantly, relationships with your neighbors in the area depend on your steps. One mistake and the local external network will become one big stinking problem.

External sewerage scheme

In the figure below we have presented a diagram of the device of a primitive septic tank. In fact, anyone can do it, if they would like to save money and have complete control effective system wastewater treatment.

The device of a settling-type septic tank is a container or a combination of them, passing through which the wastewater is clarified due to the natural sedimentation of heavier inclusions. Next, the wastewater is further treated in the field or in a filtration well. Here, along with mechanical purification, biological purification processes take place. There are simpler options when only a large-volume container (storage septic tank) is used to collect wastewater, but in this case you will have to periodically pump out the sewerage - call a sewer truck. This option is easy to install, but that’s where its simplicity and convenience end.

Calculation of the capacity of a wastewater treatment plant for a summer residence is carried out as follows: the volume is calculated based on three-day settling at an average consumption of 200 liters per person (can be calculated individually). That is, if 5 people live in a house, then the volume of the septic chamber is 5 × 200 × 3 = 3,000 liters, or 3 cubic meters. m. Accordingly, the more people live, the larger the volume of a septic tank is required. It's simple!

Stages of making a homemade septic tank

• we find ready-made PP containers or reinforced concrete rings based on the required volume of the future septic tank (also keep in mind that it can be made of brick or simply filled with concrete on the walls and floor of the pit);
• we determine how the wastewater will be purified: in the well field or in the filtration field;
• carry out earthworks: digging a pit for a septic tank, trenches for pipes;
• we connect all the elements into a single structure, taking care of the ease of maintenance of the septic tank;
• We install the system pipes with a slope of 2 cm per meter and reliably seal the joints;
• we will equip a septic tank ventilation system;
• We fill up the installation, having previously carried out work on hydro- and thermal insulation of its individual components.

Naturally, this diagram is far from detailed, but other articles on our site are devoted to the independent production of a septic tank from Eurocubes, reinforced concrete rings, etc. And do not forget to take a responsible approach to choosing a location for a septic tank.

When starting to install a sewer system, you need not only to be patient and dig up more than one cubic meter of earth, but also to read a lot of literature on the proper organization of work, and perhaps take advantage of the advice of experts. Ultimately, however, you'll be proud of the work you've done when you can soak in your own Jacuzzi or shower in your new walk-in shower. And it doesn’t matter whether it’s a wooden or brick house - sewage works according to the same principles everywhere!

The end of the second decade of the 21st century suggests that in a modern private house, including a dacha, a latrine is somewhat more technologically advanced than a modest wooden booth at the end of the plot. It is not surprising, therefore, how advanced sewer systems for country houses and materials for them have become today. And all this is quite affordable and feasible for a home craftsman to install with his own hands.

Any system for drainage and disposal of wastewater in a residential building, no matter how small it may be, needs to build a diagram that will demonstrate the size of the system on a scale and help in choosing:

• the type of plumbing and its placement, including additional suppliers of wastewater, such as a bathhouse;
• internal pipe routing route;
• exit points of the sewer system from the building;
• passing the sewer line outside the building;
• type of equipment and its location on the site;
• materials needed to create the system.

The diagram also displays pipe diameters, their connection options and other information that is necessary for assembling the internal and external components of the sewer system.

Types of sewer system

The most popular sewer systems today are based on the use of:

• cesspools;
• storage tanks;
• two-chamber septic tanks;
• septic tanks with filtration;
• septic tanks with biofilter;
• septic tanks with forced air supply.

Did you know?As archaeologists have established, the world's earliest outlines of sewerage systems, which appeared in Mesopotamia, are almost five thousand years old. However, a sewer system reminiscent of the modern one appeared in Ancient Rome in the 6th century BC.

The time-tested method of draining wastewater is simple and cheap. To construct a cesspool in the form of a well without a bottom, concrete rings, bricks and similar materials are needed.
Since the bottom of this well consists of bare soil, household liquid waste flows through the well onto it, seeps out and begins to be cleaned. The more solid fractions of this waste are retained in the pit and precipitate. When a lot of them accumulate in the well, cleaning is required.

This system operates reliably and justifies its existence if the volume of wastewater from the house per day does not exceed a cubic meter. This amount allows microorganisms in the soil to cope with the processing of organic elements and thereby purify the water entering the soil through the bottom of the well.

When this volume is exceeded, the water no longer has time to be purified and begins to pollute The groundwater. It makes sense to build a cesspool if the dacha is not visited big amount people only on weekends. In any case, this primitive type of sewer system is becoming less and less popular among country homeowners today.

A container for receiving waste waste installed near the house can be made of plastic, brick, concrete, or metal, provided that the container is hermetically sealed.

This is especially true for land plots where the groundwater level is high. A hermetically sealed tank will protect both the soil and groundwater from contamination. The only inconvenience of this system is its dependence on frequent calls for vacuum cleaners, which is why the cost of its operation is quite high.

This device consists of two tanks, the first of which is equipped with a sealed bottom, and the second is not equipped, being covered with a layer of sand-crushed stone mixture from below.

Did you know?The all-round genius Leonardo da Vinci even invented a flush toilet in 1516. But even the French king could not bring the revolutionary idea to life, since at that time there was no water supply or sewage system at all.

The wastewater flows into the first tank, where solid organic matter sinks, fatty particles rise to the top, and partially purified water is located in the middle.

Both volumes are connected to each other by a pipe with a slight slope towards the second tank. According to it, which has already partly become more clean water flows into the second tank. And there it, passing through the sand-crushed stone mixture, as well as through the soil, is further purified.
It is clear that in the first compartment, which is a sump, masses of waste gradually accumulate in order to eliminate which it is necessary to resort to the services of sewer trucks.

But it is recommended to equip a second container only when there is at least a meter distance from its bottom, filled with a mixture of crushed stone and sand, to groundwater. Moreover, this sand-crushed stone mixture needs to be changed every five years.

It consists of a tank divided into several sections connected to each other by slightly inclined pipes. As a rule, such a tank is manufactured at the factory.

The first tank is used to settle liquid waste. From it, partly clarified water flows into another compartment of the container. And there, anaerobic bacteria that decompose organic elements make the water even purer, after which it flows into the third reservoir.
And from it, through the ground, the water reaches filtration fields specially created from a sand-crushed stone mixture, where it is purified up to 80% and discharged into special ditches or containers. This method of treating liquid waste is advisable only where there is a large area of ​​land.

After all, only from the filtration fields to the house or source of drinking water the distance should be at least 30 m. Plus, the filtration sites themselves occupy a lot of space, although they are underground. In addition, groundwater should in this case rise no higher than 3 m.

This type of purification device is different in that it can be used on land where the groundwater level is high. It is a tank consisting of four sections connected to each other by pipes with a slight slope.

In the first tank, the wastewater settles and flows into another compartment in the form of partially purified water. There, the water is further purified using anaerobic microorganisms and, in a more clarified form, is sent to the third separator compartment, and from there to the fourth.
And there it is already treated with aerobic bacteria. They require a constant supply fresh air, coming here using a pipe that is brought out to a height of half a meter. Thanks to the treatment with these bacteria, the water reaches a purity of up to 95% and is quite suitable for watering plants, washing cars and other household needs.

This method of sewage treatment is most in demand in country houses with people permanently residing there, since bacteria need a continuous supply of liquid waste, without which they die. And although bacteria can easily be added to the system through the toilet, it will take about two weeks for them to fully restore their full activity.

This installation, using electricity, significantly enhances wastewater treatment. It does this by forcing atmospheric air, for which an electric pump and an air distributor are used.

This type of purification device can consist of one tank divided into three compartments, or three different tanks connected to each other through inclined pipes.

Primary purified wastewater from the first compartment is poured into the aeration tank, which is the second section. There is aerobic sludge, supplemented by plants and microorganisms. It is they who require a forced supply of fresh air.

After this, the more purified liquid, together with the sludge, is poured into a third container, where, after settling, it undergoes better cleaning, and the sludge that is in the sediment is returned to the aeration tank using a pump.
Forced air serves as an effective catalyst for the process, resulting in water being purified much faster and more efficiently.

And although the installation consumes little electricity, it nevertheless requires an electrical network, which is partly its disadvantage. The operation of this system also requires continuous residence of one of the household members in the house.

How to install a sewer system with your own hands

With a high-quality diagram of the future sewer system and the availability of all the necessary materials, you can proceed directly to its phased construction.

There are three stages, which include:

• installation of an internal sewerage system;
• laying pipes outside the home;
• construction of treatment facilities.

Video: home sewerage

Laying out pipes and risers

Indoor wiring includes horizontally placed pipes connecting plumbing fixtures to a vertically standing pipe, which is the riser. And it connects to the main line that carries sewage to the outside.

Ideally, it is advisable to couple the installation of a sewer system with the construction of a house, but it is quite possible to assemble the wiring located inside in an already built house, especially if it is small.

In this case, the following requirements should be adhered to:

1. Since wastewater from plumbing fixtures is discharged by gravity, the pipes that go from them to the riser must be laid with a certain slope.
2. Sanitary equipment must be separated from pipelines by water seals in the form of siphons, which are a curved pipe with water constantly in it, which does not allow odors to penetrate from the sewer into the premises.
3. The pipe connecting the toilet to the riser should not exceed 1 m.
4. The intra-house sewer system requires ventilation, for which the riser is discharged outside with a slight elevation above the roof.

Important!The toilet must be connected to the horizontal wiring in its lowest part on the floor.

Pipe routing

If pipes are laid in an already built house, then there are three ways to lay them:

• with the help of scraping, ditches are made in the walls, in which pipes are hidden;
• lay them on the floor;
• fixed to the walls using clamps.

The pipeline is assembled, starting from the riser and ending with the plumbing. The main thing when laying horizontal pipes is to establish the required angle of inclination.

The larger the pipe, the smaller the angle should be. For example, with a pipe diameter of 50 mm, one end of its meter section should be 30 mm higher than the second, and with a diameter of 200 mm, this elevation is only 7 mm.

Video: routing sewer pipes At first glance, it seems that the greater the slope of the pipeline, the better the drainage will flow through it. However, in reality, excessive slope causes water to roll down the pipe too quickly, and the harder parts of the drain cannot keep up with it and are retained in the pipeline.

Installation and assembly of the riser

The installation of an internal sewer system begins with the installation of an intra-house collector in the form of a riser. In its lower part, the riser is connected to a pipe that passes through the foundation and carries the wastewater outside, and at the top it is crowned with ventilation rising above the roof.

Important! The best option, when there is only one riser for the whole house.

Installation and installation of the riser are carried out in the following sequence:

1. On the wall, where the future riser will pass, you need to draw its axis with a pencil. If desired, a recess is made in the wall, the width and depth slightly exceeding the diameter of the riser pipe. When attaching the pipe externally to the wall, clamps and brackets are used. The fasteners should be installed under the sockets connecting the pipes; the distance between the fasteners should not exceed 4 m.
2. Then it is necessary to pre-assemble the riser and attach it to the wall to check whether all dimensions were correctly observed, taking into account the fittings for connecting the horizontal part of the system. The installation locations of fastening elements, if provided, are also determined external installation riser on the wall. It should be taken into account that the pipe cannot be installed close to the wall; the gap between them must be at least 3 cm.
3. Having eliminated all errors in the installation of pipes, the riser is assembled using seals and secured with clamps, if external fastening is provided.
4. Next, you need to connect the riser to the pipe that leads the wastewater outside. And the upper end of the riser can be connected to a waste pipe rising above the roof.

Video: tips for installing sewer risers

Fan pipes used for ventilation of sewerage systems connect internal system With external environment by helping:

• remove harmful and foul-smelling gases generated in the sewer system into the atmosphere;
• maintain the required pressure inside the system.

For all their usefulness, vent pipes are not at all necessary in all house constructions without exception. In a small one-story country house, where the volume of wastewater is small, it is quite possible to do without this device. But in large houses, with two or more floors, with a considerable number of residents, fan devices are certainly necessary.

They work on the principle of sucking atmospheric air into the sewer system when the air inside it is rarefied. In this they are helped by vacuum valves, which just let atmospheric air in when its pressure in the system drops, but prevent the gases accumulated in the system from escaping outside.
Fan pipes with vacuum valves are installed on the roofs of the building, where they usually rise 20 cm above the roof. Sometimes this ventilation is installed in attic spaces buildings.

The sewer outlet is a system of pipes that is located under the foundation of the house and serves as a continuation of the riser. It is an intermediate link between the in-house collector and the external part of the sewer system.

The most difficult point in its construction is the exit to the outside under or through the foundation to connect to the external pipeline.

The outlet equipment requires pipes of the same diameter as the riser, as well as bends that transfer the vertical pipeline to a horizontal position, in which it is discharged through the foundation to the outside.

The external sewer network starts from the outlet leaving the foundation and goes to the treatment device, where it delivers liquid waste from the house.

To install an out-of-home sewerage section, you should adhere to the following rules:

• the external pipeline must be located at such a depth that it does not freeze in winter;
• if it is not possible to dig a deep trench, the pipe must be insulated;
• Every ten meters on straight sections of the pipeline and at its turns it is necessary to install inspection wells.

Apart from digging a trench to a frost-free depth, laying the pipe does not require much effort:

1. First, the trench is prepared, which consists of the required depth and slope towards the cleaning device.
2. A 10-centimeter layer of a mixture of sand and clay is poured onto its bottom.
3. A pipe is placed on top of this layer.
4. The gap between it and the walls of the trench is also filled with this mixture.
5. The trench is filled with previously excavated soil.
6. The landscape damaged by these operations is being restored.

Ancient cesspools without a bottom are now used less and less. Instead, storage and cleaning devices are used. The first of them is a large tank, hermetically sealed, as a result of which its contents do not come into contact with the surrounding soil.

Video: choosing a septic tank for a private home

This component country sewer it is most rational to use in areas with high level groundwater, as well as in country houses and dachas, which are visited infrequently and by a small number of people.

If the country house is large, equipped with many types of plumbing and is constantly inhabited by a large number of residents, then it is necessary to install a septic tank with soil-based wastewater treatment or with forced aeration.

Device

The storage type of sewer system works very simply: liquid waste flows into a reservoir and accumulates in it without coming into any contact with the surrounding soil. After the container is completely filled with wastewater, it is necessary to resort to the services of vacuum cleaners to remove it.

Both large factory-made plastic tanks and those made independently from brick, concrete, concrete rings or iron barrels welded together are used as storage tanks.
Different types of septic tanks are more complex. They consist of several sections, in the first of which solid waste elements precipitate, undergoing anaerobic treatment by microorganisms, and partially purified water flows into the next section, where it is purified using various ways filtration.

The choice of one type of septic tank or another is determined by the level of groundwater on the site, the size of the site itself, as well as the house, the number of permanent inhabitants in it and the plumbing fixtures they use.

Construction

To build a storage tank you should:

1. Dig a pit.
2. Install a concrete base in it.
3. Build a brick wall around it, providing a hole for the sewer pipe in its upper part. Top in concrete cover There must be another hole for the sewer hose, which must be tightly closed at all other times.
4. Instead of bricks, you can use concrete rings or welded metal ones.

Video: building a septic tank For the construction of different types of septic tanks, concrete rings, metal containers, Eurocubes and other plastic tanks are used.

They are mounted differently, but their installation is largely similar:

1. First you need to dig a pit, which should be about half a meter larger in length and width than the container installed in it.
2. Then the bottom of the pit should be leveled and covered with a 2-centimeter layer of sand.
3. For concrete and plastic containers Concreting of the base is required.
4. After this, you need to install the tank.
5. The installed tank must be connected to pipes, through one of which sewage is supplied, and purified water comes out of the other.
6. Then, if necessary, it is possible to add water purification elements using soil.
7. Hatches should also be installed.
8. And finally, you need to fill the container with previously removed soil.

Alternative options

If someone does not want or is not yet able to install a sewer system in their country house or dacha, they have the opportunity to do without it using dry closets. They are autonomous devices that do not require connection to the sewerage system.

Currently, there are many types of such toilets, but the most popular among them are:

Peat, as is easy to understand from the name, use special peat with bioactivators for composting waste products. In liquid, special solutions are used to speed up the processing of waste products.

And electric ones, the most expensive, separate waste into solid and liquid fractions, the first of which are then dried, and the second are disposed of.

Despite the apparent complexity of this process, installing a sewerage system in a house with your own hands is quite possible home handyman. With a correctly drawn up diagram of the future system, the availability of materials and a great desire to bring the plan to life, success, as practice shows, almost always comes.

Was this article helpful?

Thank you for your opinion!

Write in the comments what questions you have not received an answer to, we will definitely respond!

July 7, 2016
Specialization: master of internal and exterior decoration(plaster, putty, tiles, drywall, lining, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, renovations in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all necessary types works

Of course, it is best if the sewerage installation in a private house is done with your own hands simultaneously with laying the foundation, even before the construction of the building frame. Of course, this requires preliminary design and planning, but this way you can avoid difficult passages through the foundation strip and dismantling the floor covering.

But, despite such features, there are certain requirements for laying the pipeline, which I want to talk about in more detail and invite you to watch the video in this article.

Installation of sewerage pipeline

Five important requirements

First, I want to list you five basic requirements, without which not a single installation of sewer pipes in a private house can be done. But I will do this briefly in order to concentrate your attention on further installation instructions.

1. In any case, no matter where you lay the sewer pipeline - in a house, in an apartment, in a basement, by air or underground, you will have to maintain a certain slope, and different for each diameter. Of particular importance are the main pipes leading to a storage or flow tank - from correct slope The quality of the drain depends. If you make it more than necessary, then the water will wash the feces without washing them away, and if it is less, then again the preconditions for clogging will be created due to the low intensity of fluid movement.
2. If this is a sewerage installation in an apartment, then there are short sections of pipeline, but in a private house they increase significantly, which requires inserting revisions. In addition, in cases where the length of the route on a site exceeds 10 m, inspection wells should be installed there.
3. When laying a sewer system in a private house (underground installation is meant), certain distances to objects and structures must be observed, which are discussed in SNiP 2.04.03-85 and SNiP 2.04.01-85.
4. To prevent the system from freezing in winter period The pipeline must be laid at or below the zero freezing point of the soil. But since in some regions of Russia this limit is deeper than two meters, in such cases they often resort to installing thermal insulation.
5. Pipes should be laid only on a sand cushion and covered with it, as shown in the photo in the subtitle. This protects PVC from deformation and damage from sharp stones and metal objects.

Indoor sewerage

First of all, you should firmly understand that the sewerage layout in a private house or apartment, that is, indoors, remains the same in principle. In 99% of cases, the most extreme point will always be the toilet flush - this is a 110 mm pipe, into which all other bathrooms are inserted - an example of such a device is shown in the top diagram.

In any case, at the exit from the room, be it a riser or a sun lounger, a 110 pipe is used, although on the street or in the basement the diameter may increase if other waste systems are connected there.

Of course, the slope in the room is also important - this does not apply except to the automatic washing machine, where the drainage is forced - a counter-slope is even possible there if the characteristics of the room require it.

In addition, the room may have risers between floors or leading to the main drainage line - here, too, a diameter of 110 mm is used for polyvinyl chloride. But for the correct distribution of slopes, you better use the table that I give below.

Table of optimal and minimum slope for sewer pipes

To connect pipes to each other, to make turns and to change to another diameter, special fittings and rubber reductions are used - with their help, all, even the most complex, connections are made. Basically, the sewerage is installed in the bathroom and toilet, that is, where most of the plumbing is located, but a tie-in from the sink and dishwasher is also added there.

An automatic washing machine can be installed both in the bathroom and in the kitchen and it is not at all necessary to make a separate drain for it. Currently, siphons with a special outlet are produced, as shown in the top photo.

By and large, a dishwasher can also be connected to such an outlet, but I personally prefer to make the drain for this with a 32 mm pipe, cutting it into a 50 mm one through a tee and a rubber reduction - it’s more reliable.

The pipeline to the wall or floor must be fixed with metal or plastic brackets - they are sold in stores for any diameter you need. But such consoles occupy a certain place, and if the wiring is done in the basement or other technical room, which does not need to be decorated, then this is exactly the fastener.

If you need to hide the pipes, then certain inconveniences arise. Personally, in such cases, I resort to perforated metal strip hangers - I simply pull the pipe to the plane with them, like a clamp - this saves space.

It happens that during assembly, one pipe fits very tightly into the socket of another, crushing the rubber sealing ring - this usually happens when elements are connected from different manufacturers.
In such cases, I lubricate the rubber ring with liquid dishwashing detergent, and all problems are left behind.

Underground pipeline installation on the street

City and surrounding areas	Depth in cm
Khanty-Mansiysk	240
Novosibirsk, Omsk	220
Ukhta, Tobolsk, Petropavlovsk	210
Orsk, Kurgan	200
Magnitogorsk, Chelyabinsk, Ekaterinburg, Perm	190
Orenburg, Ufa, Syktyvkar	180
Kazan, Kirov, Izhevsk	170
Samara, Ulyanovsk	160
Saratov, Penza, Nizhny Novgorod, Kostroma, Vologda	150
Tver, Moscow, Ryazan	140
St. Petersburg, Voronezh, Volgograd	120
Kursk, Smolensk, Pskov	110
Astrakhan, Belgorod	100
Rostov-on-Don	90
Stavropol	80
Kaliningrad	70
Khanty-Mansiysk	240
Novosibirsk, Omsk	220

Table of soil freezing to 0⁰C in Russia

As you can see from the table above, the depth of soil freezing in different regions of Russia differs greatly from each other. Moreover, this indicator may differ in the same area - this change is determined by the height of the area above sea level and the condition or type of soil.

Therefore, I recommend that you use existing experience to determine the freezing depth. That is, simply find out from neighbors or friends at what depth their water supply is laid and whether it freezes - this is the best guide.

As I already said, instructions for deepening a pipeline can sometimes be too difficult to follow due to the level of soil freezing in some regions. Therefore, if the route is installed at a depth accessible to negative temperatures, you will need thermal insulation - for this you can use extruded polystyrene foam, polyethylene foam or mineral wool.

There are also special insulation materials that are produced in the form of a shell (with or without a foil coating) - they can be made of two halves, or in the form of the same pipe, but with a longitudinal cut for installation.

I resort to shells only if the owner of the property wants it, since they are quite expensive, although of high quality. It is much cheaper to do this with mineral wool - wrap the pipeline, fix the wool with nylon thread, and then cover the whole thing with roofing felt, like a bandage - it is better to fix it with tape or wire.

Only here you need either basalt or glass wool - slag wool has iron particles that rust, causing the insulation to sag.

You will nullify everything if, having insulated the route, you leave inspection wells without insulation, storage tanks and a septic tank - you will end up with bare areas that will... You can also use them to insulate them. mineral wool or polystyrene foam, but it is much cheaper to do this with expanded clay, but it also requires waterproofing - just cover the hole with roofing felt.

Table of required distances between various objects and sewerage

In the third paragraph of the title about important requirements, I mentioned the norms of distances that must be maintained between the sewerage system and various objects and structures - these norms are indicated in the table above. But, unfortunately, it is not always possible to strictly adhere to such provisions, or your “well-wishing” neighbors may unreasonably claim this.

Therefore, you can formalize all this by inviting representatives of the BTI and signing an act of acceptance of the system and internal sewerage outlets - this will solve such problems.

Laying stages: 1 - pour a pillow; 2 - lay the pipe; 3 - cover it with sand

And now I will tell you how the process of laying a pipeline in a trench with your own hands to a storage or flow tank occurs - the essence of the process is shown in the photographs above. After you have dug a trench, you need to pour a sand cushion with a thickness of at least 29 mm into it and level it in accordance with the required slope (18-20 mm/m linear for the 110th pipe).

Then you lay the pipeline itself, check the slope again and again fill it with sand so that the thickness of the layer above the upper wall reaches 5-6 cm - this will prevent sharp stones and metal objects from breaking through the pipe under soil pressure.

Before filling the trench with soil, you need to compact the sand, but due to the instability of the material, this is quite difficult to do.
I do it differently - I water the sand generously, and it immediately sags to the desired state, after which you can immediately pour in the soil.

Conclusion

In conclusion, I would like to add that you may need pipeline insulation not only underground, but also in the house if the walls are not thick enough. In addition, thermal insulation does not replace the sand cushion. But if you still have questions about this topic, ask them in the comments.

July 7, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!