What is site drainage? Simple ways to make drainage in your dacha with your own hands and without investment. Average prices for turnkey plot drainage
Drainage of ground and storm water from the foundation will significantly increase the service life and capital building, and country houses. An easy-to-use drainage system will protect underground concrete structures from gradual erosion and basements from watering. But it is extremely important to prevent the destruction of the very foundation of the structure, right?
A well-designed drainage scheme around the house will help to build an efficient system for collecting and draining natural water. We invite you to familiarize yourself with carefully selected and verified information based on regulations And real experience builders of low-rise buildings.
We will tell you in detail about the types of drainage systems, the features of their design, and the specifics of operation. We will give reasons in favor of choosing a certain type of drainage. The useful information offered to your attention is supplemented with photos, diagrams and video instructions.
When designing a drainage system, the goals that are planned to be achieved are first determined. They may consist of draining the entire area, protecting the foundation and basement of the house from excess moisture.
From existing systems There are two main types of drainage - open and deep (closed). The first one can be used for needs Agriculture, for drainage from cultivated areas. Closed drainage is used to drain water in dacha and cottage areas, to protect buildings from negative impact high groundwater level.
The organization of a drainage system is necessary when the groundwater table is high, which is especially evident during the flood period. Drainage protects the concrete foundation from the aggression of underground water and reduces the hydraulic load
Combined drainage systems are also used. They are often supplemented with storm sewer lines designed for recycling atmospheric water. Provided they are properly designed, they can significantly save on the construction of each system separately.
Image gallery
The first and main sign that site owners need to arrange drainage is stagnation of water during the snowmelt period. This means that the underlying soils have low filtration capacity, i.e. do not allow water to pass through well or not at all
Drainage is necessary in areas with pronounced signs of soil erosion: cracks that appear during the dry period. This is a manifestation of soil erosion by groundwater, ultimately leading to destruction
Collection and drainage of water is required if, during the period of snowmelt and heavy rainfall, groundwater rises to the level of utility lines.
Drainage systems are constructed in areas with a characteristic slope. But in this case they are needed for a balanced distribution of water and retention of it on elevated areas
Flooding of the area during snowmelt
Erosion and erosion of soil under the foundation
Water at the level of utility lines
Suburban plot with slope
#1: Open drainage device
Open drainage is the simplest and most economical method of draining water, which can be used subject to the following conditions:
- the underlying soil layer is clayey, poorly permeable to water, which is why the fertile layer, located 20–30 cm from the surface of the earth, is waterlogged;
- the site is located in a lowland into which rainwater naturally flows during periods of heavy rainfall;
- there is no natural slope in the terrain of the site to ensure the movement of excess water towards the street.
Open drainage is arranged in areas with high groundwater level, the elevation of which is most often determined by the location of the land plot in a lowland or the clayey composition of the soil, which does not allow or very weakly allows water to pass into the underlying layers.
A drainage system designed to drain excess groundwater works perfectly in tandem with a storm drain, whose job is to collect and drain precipitation (+)
Planning a drainage scheme is best done at the design stage of a house. This will allow you to tie up the work and place the rainwater inlet under the gutters before installing the blind area.
Open drainage is considered the simplest and does not require drawing up a diagram. It consists of trenches 0.5 m wide and 0.6-0.7 m deep. The sides of the trench are positioned at an angle of 30°. They encircle the perimeter of the territory and direct wastewater into a ditch or pit, into a storm drain.
Areas sloping towards the street are easier to drain. To do this, a drainage ditch is dug in front of the house, across the slope, which will retain water from the garden. Then they dig a ditch, it will direct the wastewater towards the street, into the ditch.
If the site has a slope in the opposite direction from the road, then a transverse drainage ditch is dug in front of the fence facade and another longitudinal one is made to the end of the site.
The disadvantage of such drainage is its low aesthetics and the need to regularly clean the gutters from silt and dirt that periodically accumulate in them. This type of drainage is not recommended to be installed under the road surface, as it leads to subsidence of the soil and deformation of the road surface.
The length of lines for water drainage, the number of wells and sand collectors depends on the area of the site, its topography, and the intensity of precipitation in a particular area.
Drainage ditches can be strengthened from erosion using reinforced concrete slabs, stone paving, turf with crushed stone bottom
If the site is considered more or less flat, and its level of swampiness is not too high, then you can get by with the installation of a simple drainage system.
Along the foundation of the fence, in the lowest place of the site, they dig a ditch 0.5 m wide, 2-3 m long and 1 m deep. Although such a drainage system will protect against high groundwater levels, it will also cope well with precipitation.
To prevent the edges of the ditch from collapsing, it is filled with rubble, broken glass and brick. Having filled it, they dig the next one, it is also filled and compacted tightly. The excavated soil is used to fill low-lying areas on the territory
Over time, this simple drainage system may become ineffective due to gradual silting. To prevent this from happening, it can be protected with a geo-textile. It is laid on the ground, after filling the ditch, it is overlapped and covered with it. drainage layer. From above, to hide the ditch, it is sprinkled with a layer of fertile soil.
#2: Construction of an effective storm drain
Storm drain necessary for the accumulation and removal from the site of water falling in the form of precipitation. It is equipped with point and linear drainage devices.
Image gallery
Storm sewer systems are designed to collect atmospheric water and prevent its penetration into the soil and then into the underlying soils
Based on the type of water intake devices, storm sewer systems are divided into point and linear. The former are built in areas with organized drainage, the latter - with unorganized
Linear water intakes have a much larger collection area than point ones. They are installed next to houses with unorganized drainage and on areas paved with a waterproof coating
In linear storm drains, water is both collected and transported through a network of channels covered with metal or plastic grating. In point systems, water is drained through a system of pipes laid in the ground
Storm sewer with point water intake
Point storm drainage channels
Linear water intakes
Structure of trays with gratings
The first type of water collectors is installed under the risers of an organized drainage system. The second type of water collectors is located under the slopes of roofs with unorganized drainage.
Water entering the catch basin moves through an open or closed pipeline. It is diverted either to a common catchment well or to a collector well, from which it is transferred to a centralized sewer network or drainage ditch.
A storm inlet is a container for collecting water, equipped with outlets for connecting pipes of a linear drainage system. The devices are made of durable plastic or cast iron (+)
Elements storm system With point water collectors there are also drainage systems, ladders, and dampers. Some manufacturers provide the possibility of connecting storm water inlets to roof gutters, as well as to underground drainage systems.
In addition, ready-made production models include sand traps and waste bins to simplify system maintenance.
The device with installed decorative grille should be located 3-5 mm lower than the level of the path or ground
This is a system of drainage gutters made of plastic or concrete, which are installed on the site in those places where water accumulation is most likely, but extremely undesirable.
For a drainage well, choose the most distant place from the house, well, or cellar. If there is a natural or artificial reservoir nearby, then water can be drained into it
When designing with linear water intakes, the first step is to plan the placement of a catchment or collector well. Next, determine the location of the rotary and inspection wells. Their placement will depend on the placement of stormwater inlets, gutters and closed sewer branches.
To prevent water from the street from entering the yard, gutters are installed along the line of the gate leading into the yard, garage doors, as well as in the wicket area. When choosing system elements that will be installed on the roadway, the future load on them is taken into account.
To prevent moisture from getting inside the building, the slope of the coating in the garage is made towards the water intake grille. So water, when washing a car or thawing snow on vehicle, will flow into the gutter.
Drainage trays must be installed on the porch, around the pool. They are also installed along blind areas, garden paths, lined with facing material sites
To give the storm drain a neat appearance, special trays made of polymer concrete and plastic are used, which are covered with metal or plastic gratings. When entering the house, use a special tray to clean shoes.
The grate for the gutter installed near the pool is chosen to be plastic, white to avoid burns on a hot summer day.
For intensive use, drainage trays are mounted on a concrete base. The higher the load class on the roadway, the thicker the concrete base should be (+)
The gutters and water intake points are connected to the drainage tank. Inspection wells are provided at the junctions of gutters and pipes. They are designed to facilitate access to the system and clean it from possible clogging.
Inspection wells are made mainly of plastic. In order to obtain the required depth, their design provides for the possibility of extension using special extension elements.
The placement, slope and length of storm sewer pipes - all these characteristics are very individual and depend on many conditions on the site
A wide range of system elements allows you to design the most rationally, which will be optimal from a technical and financial point of view.
Main elements linear drainage are gutters made of concrete, polymer concrete, plastic, point receivers, sand traps, gratings (+)
#3: Construction of closed drainage options
Underground, closed drainage is used if the device open system will take up too much space on the land plot or it absolutely does not fit into the landscape picture of the territory. The conditions for constructing a closed drainage system are similar to those for organizing a network of open drainage ditches and ditches.
Closed drainage schemes are used to protect foundations and basements from the effects of groundwater and increase their service life. By analogy with open ones, they are used to drain suburban areas from excess groundwater.
It is imperative to organize underground drainage on the site if:
- it is located in a lowland, wetland area;
- there is a natural pond near the buildings;
Underground drainage can be divided into two types:
- wall drainage;
- trench (stratal) drainage.
Both types of underground drainage are carried out at the construction stage of the building. If it was decided to begin the problem of drainage after the construction of the house, then a trench ring system is used. There are also limitations to the use of trench drainage. It can be used if the house does not have a basement.
The fact is that, after filling the pit with sand or soil, it creates a looser environment between the bedrock and the foundation. As a result, high water penetrates into this environment and then even the presence of a clay castle does not protect the building from moisture.
Therefore, if the house has a basement floor, for effective drainage it is best to install wall drainage. It is used for drainage to drain groundwater directly from the foundation of a building, to protect basements, cellars, ground floors from flooding.
Trees and shrubs should not be planted near the drain. The distance to the planted tree can be at least two meters and to the bush at least one meter
The wall one limits the rise in water level, preventing it from rising above the line where the drainage pipes are located - drains. It is believed that drainage pipe 1 m long is capable of drying an area of about 10-20 m2.
When installing wall drainage, the pipe is laid around the perimeter of the building. The depth of the drains cannot be lower than the base of the foundation slab or the base of the foundation. If the foundation is very deep, then laying the pipe slightly above its base is allowed (+)
The distance from the drainage pipe to the foundation depends on the location. They are laid in each corner (or through one corner) of the building, as well as in places where pipes turn and connect.
Inspection wells are also located in places where there is a large difference in the level of the site and when the pipes are long - the distance between the wells should be no more than 40 meters.
In an inspection well, the pipe cannot be solid; it breaks. This is done so that if the pipeline becomes clogged, it remains possible to flush it using a high-pressure hose
The entire system is closed to the last well. It should be located in the lowest place. The water then flows into a regular sewer or open reservoir. If it is not possible to drain water from the house by gravity, then install pump equipment and it is forcibly pumped out.
To ensure gravity drainage of water, the pipes are laid to the side of the collecting manifold. The slope should be two centimeters per meter of drainage pipeline. The depth of the pipe must be greater than the freezing depth of the soil.
The pipe is covered with drainage material - gravel, small crushed stone or sand. The minimum layer that will ensure the flow of water into the drain is 0.2 m
To save on geocomposite materials and prevent them from mixing with the soil, geotextiles are used. It freely passes water to the drains and at the same time retains particles that lead to silting. The pipe itself must also be wrapped in protective material before backfilling. Some drain models are produced with ready-made geotextile filters.
You can increase the efficiency of wall drainage using profiled polymer membrane, which can be two or three layers. One of its layers is a polyethylene film with formed protrusions, the second layer of the membrane is geotextile fabric.
The three-layer membrane is equipped with an additional layer of smooth polyethylene film. The membrane helps filter water from the soil and at the same time serves waterproofing layer for the foundation of the building.
Closed trench-type drainage protects the structure from flooding and moisture. It is a filter layer that is poured into a trench at a distance of 1.5-3 m from the wall of the house.
It is better that the depth of the drain be 0.5 m deeper than the base of the foundation - this way the water will not exert pressure on it from below. There remains a layer between the trench with drainage and the foundation of the house clay soil, which serves as a so-called clay castle.
As with the installation of a wall drainage system, drains are laid on a layer of gravel or small crushed stone. Both the pipes and the gravel layer are protected from clogging by geotextiles.
#4: Construction of wall drainage step by step
In order to get a clear idea of the process of installing drainage around country house, let's look at an example. The area shown in it required the installation of a groundwater drainage system, because... Under the soil-vegetative layer there are loams and sandy loams, which are extremely poorly permeable to water due to their low filtration capacity.
Image gallery
To install drainage, we develop a trench around the house. Since the work was carried out with a mini-excavator, we retreated 1.2 m from the walls so as not to damage the building. If you save manually, you can do it closer. The bottom of the excavation is 20-30 cm below the foundation
The branches of the trench formed around the house must have a slope towards the common trench intended for the pipe for draining collected water to the collector well
Cover the bottom of the trench with sand. We compact it and form a slope of 2-3 cm per linear meter. We direct the slope towards the common trench, the bottom of which is also filled and tamped. In the case of communications crossing the trench, take into account that the drainage pipes must pass below them
We prepare drains, perforated polymer pipes, for installation in the trench. We wrap them in geotextile, which will prevent clogging of the system and filter groundwater
We cover the compacted bottom of the trench with a second layer of geotextile, pour gravel on it and lay drains
We lay channels for draining water from storm sewers and the drainage system in one trench. It is permissible to divert the water collected from them into one collector and use common inspection wells
Having wrapped the gravel backfill together with the drainage pipe with a second layer of geotectile, we fill the trench with quarry sand. We do not use the soil dumped during the development of the trench; sand will better allow water to pass through for collection by drainage
We bring the common trench to which the circular drainage is connected to the installation site of the collector well
It is better to entrust the drainage of a summer cottage to specialists, however, if this is not possible, then you can try to figure it out yourself. First of all, it is necessary to understand the types of drainage and the various schemes of its design, as well as its purpose. Drainage is simply necessary because this system protects the house and site from excess moisture. If you install it incorrectly, the effect may be the opposite. This will lead to flooding and soil erosion.
In this article we will tell you how to properly drain a site with your own hands on peat and clay soils, and also show diagrams, photos and video instructions for draining a site.
Kinds
Drainage system for a home To properly drain a site, you need to understand its types and understand the operating features of each.
Drainage happens:
- superficial;
- deep.
Surface drainage can be easily done independently, without the involvement of specialists. This is a relatively easy job.
It is best to carry out deep drainage at the stage of building a house.
The building also needs protection. It often happens that the flow of groundwater penetrates into underground premises. Water can flood a cellar, garage, underground parking lot or recreation room. It all depends on what is below the surface of the earth.
Surface
Surface drainage
Surface drainage of the site is carried out using various rainwater inlets and trays. This type of drainage got its name because the entire system is located on the surface. Trays can successfully cope with flows of rainwater, as well as moisture that forms as a result of melting snow.
There are two types of surface drainage: point and linear.
It cannot be said that one type of drainage is better than another. Often both varieties are used together for greater effectiveness. All devices in the system require regular cleaning, otherwise they will no longer function properly. A well-organized drain serves well and does its job.
Spot
Point drainage
With spot planning, trays are installed, first of all, under the sewer pipes of the house. Otherwise, water will constantly fall on the foundation and on the site.
Improper planning will lead to moisture penetration into the underground rooms.
The trays must be installed so that they are underground. They will have to run pipes to the sewer system. The top of the tray is covered with a grill. It is both protective and decorative element simultaneously. To clean the tray, you only need to lift the grill and remove debris from the container.
Linear
Linear drainage system
The linear system has been known for a very long time. It was also used in Ancient Egypt and Babylon. Today, only the materials used have changed, but the operating principle remains the same.
Linear type drainage Plastic or reinforced concrete trays are used for drainage. They are equipped with a grille on top that covers the gutter. The system has garbage collectors that make cleaning the trays easier.
Installation of such systems is necessary in cases where:
- it is necessary to protect the foundation from rainwater;
- there is a risk of soil erosion;
- there is a need to remove moisture from sheds, garages and other structures located in lowlands;
- to protect paths in garden and suburban areas.
Installing a water drain will not be a difficult procedure even for a beginner. Its structure is extremely clear.
Deep
Diagram of deep drainage device
Drainage trenchesDeep drainage garden plot- a very complicated procedure. However, if you have skills in construction work, then you can cope with the task.
Typically, both types of drainage are installed in areas: deep and surface. Such a drainage network will provide absolute protection from moisture.
Before installing a buried system, it is necessary to determine in which direction the water flows during rainstorms. This indicator is one of the most important.
If you make a mistake with the level of incline, you can harm yourself with your own work.
You can find out the direction of water flow without studying the area. To do this, just wait for the first downpour and see where the flows are heading.
Laying drainage pipes Trenches are dug at the site. Their pattern resembles a Christmas tree.
Filling the trench The trenches are filled with crushed stone and small stones. This will allow moisture to easily flow to the pipes. The installation of drainage on the site must be carried out according to all the rules, so every little detail must be taken into account.The complexity of arranging a drainage system is that in each case its design is individual.
The general drainage scheme is simple: a receiving well, drains and a collector that removes excess moisture.
Calculation and design always depend on the characteristics of each specific site. You cannot take and install the same system on everyone. In some places additional drainage means are required, but in others the simplest device will do. As a last resort, you can turn to maps to determine the nature of your site. 
Drainage system diagram
Even if you have data from maps, you should not neglect additional practical verification of the slope. If it is not possible to achieve the desired direction of flow in some places, you can try to correct this with the help of embankments. However, such a procedure is also not carried out without preliminary calculations. A number of problems can be solved with the help of a drainage pump. This coercive system drainage, which is used in cases where it is impossible to create a natural one, or an additional water outlet device is required.
On clay soils
On clay soils
Not all types of soil drain water well. These include clayey ones. Clay soil is characterized by an excess of moisture. Because of this, it does not reach the roots. required quantity oxygen. As a result, the plants die. Dense turf also leads to oxygen starvation of plants.
If you want to make a landscape design on a clay area, then before implementing it you will need to make a drainage system. Thanks to it, the area can be processed immediately after the snow melts.
Laying in clay soil
When installing a drainage system small area, it is not necessary to make calculations during the design process. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the parameters of the drainage system regarding drains:
- slope;
- location according to plan;
- depth;
- distance between rows;
- arrangement of wellhead and inspection wells.
It is better to use the natural terrain of the site with a slope when constructing a drainage system.
Using terrain
Using terrain
It is easier to work with a sloping area than with a flat one. This is due at least to a reduction in labor costs. All you need is to correctly combine open and closed drainage. The features of drainage systems and methods of their installation will be discussed later in the article.
Clay soil is dense and heavy, so to improve drainage properties the soil should be thoroughly loosened. In the process of laying drains, it is necessary to bypass places intended for vehicle passage.
On peat soils
On peat soils
In peatlands, the groundwater level is usually high. Because of this, these types of soils are practically not used for growing plants. In the peat bogs root system the plants simply rot.
Draining peat bogs allows you to reduce the groundwater level to 2-2.5 m. There is no need to do this if soil drainage has already been carried out on your site. This can be easily determined. The site was drained if there was no stagnation of melt water and the groundwater level during floods did not exceed 1.5 m.
This occurs only on low-lying peatlands or land cultivated by someone else. Most often, on peat bogs, you can observe a picture when the water is close, and in the spring, even in some places it is not absorbed into the ground. The only exception is the hot summer, when the groundwater level drops significantly, as a result of which the peat dries out and needs watering. The roots of perennials suffer greatly during the thaw period in winter or spring. In such a situation, over time, the death of plants is inevitable.
Excess water in the soil
Not everything is so sad. Peat bogs can be drained. What can be done for this? If the water is at a level of 0.8-1.2 m, then its excess can be drained from the site, for example, by planting birch trees or viburnum bushes in the northwestern side of the site or beyond. The fact is that birch trees actively collect moisture at a distance of 30 m from themselves. This way, you will drain the area without shading it with these trees.
If the water is closer, then you will have to make a high-quality drainage system. To do this, divide the area into sectors. In this case, drainage ditches are laid in the slope of the place to collect water. In the lower corner of the site, dig a drainage well or make an artificial pond. All excess water will drain into it. peat area. If you decide to make a water collector in the form of a well, then the accumulated water during the summer drought can be used for irrigation.
Plant moisture-loving fruit/ornamental crops around the pond.
Two ditches should run along the edges land plot, transverse - must be provided for high-quality drainage of the peat bog. For example, for 6 acres it is enough to make 1-2 transverse ditches. In this case, the depth of the ditch should reach about 40-50 cm. When digging a trench, dump the top layer of soil onto the edges of the beds that will be developed later.
Drainage pipe for wetland
If you are constructing an open drainage, then the ditches can be covered with a grate or bridges can be built across them. But for safety reasons, and for greater convenience of movement around the site, it is better to make a closed drainage system. The principle of its installation will be described below.
It is impossible for water to accumulate on even a small piece of land - melt or rain. If you find such accumulations, then make mounds of soil and sand, as well as fertile soil, in such places. The drainage system hoses must converge towards the well/reservoir.
In peat bogs, plants should be grown in raised beds. If the peat dries out in summer due to the heat, it will need to be watered regularly and abundantly.
In cases where the groundwater level cannot be lowered to a level of 2 m, fruit trees it will need to be planted on artificial hills having a height of 30-50 cm. Moreover, as the tree grows, the diameter of the hill will have to be increased.
Errors during arrangement
Basic mistakes of the drainage system
The most common mistake when installing a drainage system is that it is installed without proper design. When installing drainage pipes and systems, you must first understand the situation. In this case, it is necessary to analyze the site itself and the nature of the groundwater.
For example, water very often affects the foundation. To protect it, you need to design a drainage system when building a house. In this case, it will be necessary to install an additional basement, which will serve as a barrier to groundwater. If the design was done incorrectly, the situation can only become more complicated. Groundwater will flow into the basement and affect the foundation. In difficult cases, you will have to contact specialists.
Video
The following video material will also help you understand the features of drainage:
Scheme
These diagrams will help you plan site drainage according to the requirements:
Drainage and storm sewerage
Closed drainage scheme
Diagram of drainage system components
Scheme of laying storm drains and drainage system
Surface drainage scheme
Drainage well diagram
Sectional diagram of a drainage trench
Drainage system diagram closed type
Drainage system diagram
Drainage and drainage scheme
Wall drainage
Removing excess water from the site
Drainage of a site with a slope
Drainage system drawing
During the period of snow melting or the rainy season, the soil is always saturated with moisture, and if the site is located in a low part of the terrain, water will also flow to it from neighboring areas. At the same time, the water level in the underground horizon usually rises, so the resulting problem can be quite large. City dwellers usually do not encounter such situations, but if they have treasured suburban acres in their possession: six or a little more - depending on your luck, such an issue as drainage on a summer cottage may well become relevant. You will learn how to resolve it most optimally from the material proposed here.
In Russian, the French word “drainage” sounds like “drainage”, and literally means “removal of surface water”. It does not matter in what way it is produced - natural or with the help of man-made structures.
- In the first case, a good outflow of water is facilitated by the structure of the soil - for example, if it is sandy or rocky, as well as a good location of the site (for example, on a hillock). A person can easily create conditions on his land that are close to natural, which is what is most often required when organizing water disposal.
- It is for this purpose that granular materials that allow water to pass through well are placed under the foundation of any building. In the same way, it is possible to ensure drainage of the site as a whole, and not just of one building on it.
- And only when such measures do not produce results, artificial drainage systems are provided. Most often this is necessary on clay soils that practically do not allow water to pass through.
- Of course, if all the surface water quickly went deep into the soil, the roots of the plants would not have time to absorb the amount necessary for their growth. This is prevented by humus, the fertile part found in most soils. By analogy with a sponge, humus is saturated with moisture, and only its excess goes deeper.
- Sometimes the removal of excess water is solved by deep digging of the earth, inside which a solid layer is formed. It is destroyed during passage by a plow or processing with a shovel, thereby improving the drainage properties of the soil. But this is in the beds, you can’t dig up the entire yard!
To drain the area, one of the methods presented below is selected.
Video - Drainage of a summer cottage
A regular ditch may be sufficient
Digging drainage ditches is the simplest and most affordable way to regulate the hydrogeological situation on the site. You can dig them any way you like: along the perimeter, diagonally, with an extensive network, from each building. To prevent water from stagnating in the grooves, it is given a direction using a slope that is made to the side general collection water.
This could be a ditch along the street, a nearby pond, or a well with a permeable bottom from which water can seep into the deeper layers of the soil or be pumped out. The option is selected depending on the specific situation.
- If the site is located on a slope, one ditch is dug across it at the top, and another, parallel, at the base. They communicate with each other through a connecting trench, through which water flows down without washing away the fertile soil. There should be an exit from the bottom groove into a stream or ditch.
- The trench depth is maximum 120 cm. The walls can be vertical or sloping, depending on the quality of the soil. If the ditches are open (around the perimeter, behind the fence), they must be cleaned of silt and debris at least once a year so that the water does not stagnate.
On the site itself, no one will jump over the trenches, so they are often made closed. But there are options here too.
Closed trench with drainage filling
On any country plot there are buildings: a house, a bathhouse, a greenhouse, the foundation of which is protected from moisture in the first place. The blind area, of course, copes with this, but on condition that the water is effectively drained from it. Along its edge, or indented 30 cm from the roof overhang, a drainage trench is dug into which a plastic tray can be placed.
However, if you do not plan to veneer local area, and if you want, for example, to green it, you can do it simpler:
Table 1. Landscaping of the local area.
| Photos, steps | A comment |
|---|---|
| Dig a ditch to a depth of one and a half shovels. Make a bias towards the drain, 1:40. |
| Cover it with geotextile fabric, which in this case will act as a filter and will not allow the drainage filler to silt. |
| Pour any coarse-grained material to a thickness of about 10 cm onto the bottom of the trench. Expanded clay is used here, but crushed stone can also be used. |
| Sprinkle sand on top of it. On a note! When installing pipe drainage systems, which are installed at high groundwater levels, drains (perforated pipes) are laid on expanded clay, and then sand. But if it is necessary to drain surface water, the drainage system works perfectly without them. |
| So, wrap the layers of bulk soil in fabric... |
| ... throw back the excavated soil... |
| ... and lay down pieces of turf. |
The option when pipes are laid in ditches is called pottery drainage. The diagram of its device is presented below:
Most often this is a diagonal intersection of the area. central pipe with side branches joining it. Their number and relative position depend on the type of soil: the worse it allows water to pass through, the more intensively it drains - that is, the distance between the ditches becomes smaller. It looks something like the photo below:
Pipes can be not only plastic, but also metal, asbestos-cement or concrete. Alternatively, they are laid out from four bricks in cross-section. The main thing is that the slope is maintained correctly and a high-quality drainage basin is installed.
Prices for various types of geotextiles
Geotextiles
Filtration and storage wells
In the absence of the possibility of discharging water into natural reservoirs: ditches, rivers, ponds, there is nothing left but to equip a well. There are two options: a well with a drainage bottom and a storage tank.
Option 1. With drainage wells
The essence of constructing a drainage well is that the water entering it is filtered and seeps into deeper soil layers. There may be several of them in a pipe drainage system. They are located at the beginning of the line, in places of turns, intersections, changes in slope or pipe diameter.
Note! In branched systems of large areas, water that does not have time to be absorbed into the ground in small wells can flow by gravity into a common collector into which household sewage waste is also drained. And from there, as in the picture below, it will be transferred to the filtration field.
The well can be built from factory-made concrete rings with perforations, purchase a ready-made plastic product, or cut a piece of pipe large diameter, make holes in its walls and install it in a cylindrical hole 1.8-2 m deep on a prepared crushed stone base.
On a note! Such a well does not need to be covered with a lid, but filled to the top with broken clay brick or with a rubble and just lay turf on top. Such structures are very effective on clay soils, which are not recommended to be plowed deeply to prevent waterlogging.
Prices for popular models of drainage wells
Drainage well
Option 2. With storage
The water that is collected from the site can be used in some way on the farm: for washing cars, breeding fish or crayfish, watering greenhouse crops. In any case, if on the site The groundwater and so they reach a high level, it is irrational to add surface runoff to them.
- Water can be discharged into a street storm drain, a ditch, or simply into a forest or river. For this purpose, not a drainage well, but a storage well is introduced into the system. The difference between them is that the first has permeable walls and bottom, while the second must be airtight.
- A pump is installed in it float sensor. As soon as the container is filled above a predetermined level, it begins to work, discharging excess water into a drainage channel or a drainage well located further from the site. The rest is always in stock, and if necessary, you can use the accumulated water.
- It can be very helpful if you need to extinguish a fire. Or when you start some kind of construction in the yard that will require water - for example, to moisten a compacted sand cushion.
- During the summer drought, the water supply, for which you don’t have to pay a penny, will also be useful for watering beds that suffer from excess moisture in other seasons. After all, at dachas there is often no water except what its inhabitants bring for themselves to drink.
Prices for the range of electric submersible pumps
Electric submersible pumps
Drainage system in landscape design
The dacha is different, and sometimes its functions are not limited to growing parsley and potatoes - many owners, living in the frantic pace of megacities, prefer to simply relax on it. Respectively, open ground There may not be anything on it at all - everything is asphalted, concreted, covered with tiles.
Greetings, friends!
Often the land allocated by the architectural department for a summer cottage plot does not meet the owner’s expectations. One common problem is excessive soil moisture. The result of this is poor tree growth and various diseases of garden and vegetable plants. And this is not the only trouble that results from waterlogged soil.
Water accumulating in the soil leads to erosion of the foundation. The country house and other buildings on the plots may begin to settle, and the cellar and basements will be flooded every spring. In addition, when wet soil freezes, it rises and puts pressure on the blind area around buildings and garden paths, which leads to the formation of cracks.
There is a way out of this situation - it is necessary make drainage in your area. This task is not particularly difficult, and the entire complex of work will take no more than two weeks. And the time and effort spent will pay off - this way you will be able to avoid many troubles, increase the durability of buildings and provide yourself with a good harvest in the garden.
You can’t do without drainage systems:
- In areas with clay soil, where even a little rain will lead to the appearance of long-standing puddles.
- In areas with a high groundwater horizon.
- In areas with horizontal surface land in the absence of drainage.
- In areas located at the foot of the slopes.
Types of drainage systems
Excessive soil moisture in a summer cottage can have two reasons. The first of them is the high clay content in the soil. Such soil does not allow water to pass through well; as a result, water from rain and melting snow accumulates and stagnates in top layer soil. Another reason is the close location of groundwater to the soil surface. These waters are a serious problem for building foundations and basements, especially in the spring.
Based on the reason high humidity soil, an appropriate type of drainage system can be used to drain excess water. There are two main types of drainage systems - open and closed. The first of them can be used for clay soil - when it is quite enough to remove water from the surface layer. To drain groundwater, only closed-type drainage is applicable.
What is open drainage?
An open or surface drainage system can be created either according to a previously developed project or without it. There are two ways to make open drainage:
- local method
- creation of a ditch system
The first method is the most simple option drainage system. In this case, water is not drained from the entire territory of the site as a whole, but only from those places that are subject to flooding in spring, autumn or during prolonged rainy weather.
The first step in constructing an open drainage is to identify the areas of greatest stagnation of water. In these places, water intake wells are dug or containers dug into the ground to collect water. The water that accumulates there can be used to water garden crops in the future. The most water collects in the following places:
- at the lowest point of the site;
- in areas with a flat surface - for example, in front of the porch;
- in depressions on the surface of the earth.
In the case where water accumulates at the border of the site, a ditch is dug to drain the water beyond its territory. If the place with excess soil moisture is located in the depths of the site, then a drainage well is dug.
Laying the ditch system
This method of reclamation is also used in clay soil conditions. In this case, a network of drainage ditches is created throughout the area. Water collected from the entire territory is drained through ditches into a catchment well. The drainage ditches system is constructed in accordance with a previously developed scheme.
IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
To ensure high-quality drainage, when digging ditches, a slope in the direction of the drainage basin must be observed. In the presence of natural slope, the bottom of the trench is made parallel to the earth's surface. If the ground surface on the site is horizontal, then it is necessary to make an artificial slope. Otherwise, water will stagnate in the ditches.
The number of drainage ditches is set in accordance with the level of soil moisture. The more clay the soil contains, the more trenches need to be dug. The minimum depth of the ditch should be fifty centimeters. The width of the trench is determined by the distance from the water intake. The maximum width should be the ditch into which water flows from the entire network and which directly flows into the reservoir.
IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
Once the trench network has been dug, it must be tested. To do this, you need to artificially run a stream of water through it. In places where this flow is delayed, the slope of the ditch should be increased.
How does closed drainage work?
A closed drainage system can be pipe or reservoir. A pipe drainage system consists of pipes laid in the ground at a certain depth, the value of which is determined by the density of the soil. The looser the soil, the deeper the pipes must be laid. To create closed drainage, special perforated pipes are used, into the holes of which water from the soil penetrates, which then flows through the system into a drainage basin, drainage tunnel, or stormwater well.
Due to the fact that laying a closed drainage is much more expensive than creating an open system, this method of reclamation is justified only when the groundwater boundary is closer than 2.5 meters from the surface of the earth.
Reservoir drainage is a filter bed made of crushed stone, which is laid at the base of the building.
IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
In areas with a rainy climate and frequent downpours, a combined drainage option should be installed - a combination of a deep drainage system with a storm drain. You can create either one or one consisting of ditches.
Accessories for drainage systems
Before installing a drainage system, you need to decide on its type. Right choice The type of drainage is determined by the specific local conditions. When the type of drainage system is chosen, you must first develop a plan, establish what materials and in what quantities are needed for this, and calculate the construction estimate.
The materials that will be needed for the construction of open-type drainage depend on which trench option is chosen - backfill or tray. For backfill ditches you will need small and large crushed stone, as well as geotextiles.
Trench trenches are more effective for drainage. For their construction, ready-made trays are used, the material for which can be:
- concrete;
- concrete with polymer filler;
- plastic.
The best option are plastic trays, which weigh little and, at the same time, are quite durable.
When constructing a closed type drainage, you will need special pipes, geotextiles and crushed stone.
IT IS IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
The use of geotextiles in the construction of a drainage system is highly desirable - this material allows only water to pass through and retains solid particles. Thus, it prevents the drainage from gradually filling with silt.
Regardless of what kind of drainage system is being built, open or closed, to carry out the work you need to acquire a level and a laser rangefinder, which are needed to study the topography of the site and draw up a correct plan for the system. In order to maintain the required slope when digging trenches and laying pipes, you will need a level. These tools can only be dispensed with when constructing local catch basins.
Do-it-yourself drainage on the site video
The procedure for performing work during the construction of drainage systems
In order to successfully build drainage on a summer cottage, you need to be guided by the following general considerations:
- The construction of a closed drainage system requires a large volume earthworks. In this regard, it is necessary to build drainage even before trees are planted on the site, and even better - before the foundation of the buildings is laid.
- Before work begins, a detailed plan of the system must be drawn up. To do this, it is necessary to study the terrain, determine the highest and lowest points on the site, and set the value of the required slope.
- When designing closed system Inspection wells should be included in the plan to ensure the possibility of servicing the drainage system.
- When laying a drainage pipeline, the recommended slope is from two to ten millimeters per meter of pipe.
How to build an open drainage system
Construction of an open drainage system is a much easier task than laying a closed drainage system, since it does not require digging deep trenches. When laying a network of trenches, a plan for their location is first drawn up. Then trenches are dug. Typically, the main ditches are laid along the perimeter of the site, and auxiliary ditches - from the places of greatest accumulation of water. In this case, the depth of the trench should be from fifty to seventy centimeters, the width should be about half a meter. Auxiliary trenches should slope towards the main ditches, and the main trenches should slope towards the drainage basin. The walls of the trench should not be vertical, but beveled. The angle of inclination should be from twenty-five to thirty degrees.
The further progress of work depends on what kind of system is being built, backfill or tray. When constructing a backfill system, the ditch is first filled with crushed stone - coarse to 2 thirds of the depth, and then fine. Turf is laid on top of the crushed stone. To prevent siltation of crushed stone, it is advisable to cover it with geotextiles.
The construction of a tray drainage includes the following steps:
- Laying trenches while maintaining the required slope.
- Pour a ten-centimeter layer of sand onto the bottom of the ditches, which must then be compacted tightly.
- Installation of trays and sand traps, which are plastic parts, preventing sand and debris from entering the drainage, and thereby protecting the system from silting.
- Closing the ditches at the top with gratings that prevent clogging of the trenches with fallen leaves and various garbage, and also perform an aesthetic function.
How to build a closed drainage
The construction of a closed drainage system consists of the following steps:
- Studying the topography of the site using a level and a laser range finder, and constructing a drainage network plan. If surveying instruments are not available, then you should wait for heavy rain and observe the movement of rainwater flows.
- Laying trenches for the drainage pipeline.
- Filling the bottom of the trenches with a layer of sand seven to ten centimeters thick, followed by compaction.
- Laying geotextiles in the trench, with the edges of the fabric protruding beyond the sides of the ditch.
- Laying a twenty-centimeter layer of crushed stone on top of the geotextile, serving as a filter. In this case, limestone crushed stone should not be used, as this may result in the formation of a salt marsh.
- Laying pipes on a layer of crushed stone. In this case, their holes should be directed downwards.
- Sprinkling crushed stone over the pipes and covering it on top with the edges of a geotextile fabric, which will filter water from suspended particles, thereby preventing siltation of the system.
- Filling ditches with soil over which turf can be laid.
The drainage system should end with a well for collecting water, which must be dug at the lowest point of the site. From this well, water can be discharged into a natural reservoir, into a ravine, or into a general storm drain, if there is one in a given locality.
A properly constructed drainage system will prevent problems associated with excessive dampness, which is why its construction is mandatory in areas with wet soil. And those dacha owners who are not confident that they can cope with the construction of drainage on their own should contact specialists and pay the required amount, but should not try to save on such an important functional element of the dacha as drainage.
Well, that's all, guys - I hope I was able to answer your question: " How to make drainage on a site with your own hands". Good luck to everyone!
In some places, groundwater comes quite close to the surface of the earth. Another problem can be heavy rainfall and water generated when snow melts. Excess moisture causes the death of agricultural crops and destroys the foundation of houses and household buildings. Creating a drainage system with your own hands will solve the problem. This is a labor-intensive process that involves a significant amount of earthwork.
All work can be in vain if a drainage system is not created on the site in timeIt is advisable to engage in the arrangement of drainage at the stage of development of a dacha or garden plot. In this case, it is necessary to collect information about the state of the earth, professional hydrogeological studies and a system design are needed. However, most gardeners bypass this stage and create drainage in their small area on their own, based on the specific situation.
What water should drainage remove?
There are several sources of moisture entering a site, and a different approach is important to eliminating the influence of each of them. They are characterized own characteristics and demand various actions for water drainage.
Groundwater
Such waters have a pronounced seasonal character and appear in the spring. Groundwater has an inflow source and an outflow area. They appear more often on sandy soil.
The presence of groundwater can be determined using wells. It is important to note the level of moisture that leaked during drilling and compare it with the established level after a certain time after its appearance.
The drainage system must be installed when the groundwater level is 0.5 m below the foundation. In another situation, there is a threat of gradual destruction of the foundation and an obstacle to the normal development of plants. It is necessary to create a system of channels and drainage pipes installed at a depth of 25-35cm. below the height of groundwater. In this option, moisture will be diverted to the lowlands, and waterlogging of the soil will be prevented.
Drilling a monitoring well Surface water
Clay soils are one of the reasons for excess water in the garden. Such soils are dense and poorly permeable to moisture. After rainy days and melting snow, stagnant water is observed on clay lands. Puddles interfere with normal movement around the site, the soil slips underfoot, and plant roots are deprived of air exchange. When it dries, it becomes covered with a crust that is not easy to loosen and dig up.
Upper level waters
Overwater is water that, after being absorbed by the soil, encounters an obstacle in the form of a viscous layer of clay, which delays further penetration. This situation occurs on soil with highly placed waterproof layers, which usually indicates construction errors. They are evidenced by situations when, as a result of rain, puddles remain on the site and in dug channels for a long time, and after a certain time after completion of construction, moisture appears on the basement walls.
To drain the perched water, you will have to arrange the drainage of the garden plot with your own hands (the optimal solution is a system drainage channels). Protect the foundation from water top level will allow backfilling foundation with clay followed by compaction. Next, a blind area is made, wider than the backfill, and storm drains are drained. During work, it is important to prevent the formation of pockets where water could stagnate.
Scheme of the concrete blind area On a sloping area, it is advisable to equip terraces and concrete retaining walls, along which it is important to place drainage ditches. At dachas located lower than others, topping up with soil will help counteract water flow, since there is nowhere else to dump wastewater. An alternative is to drain drainage through neighbors’ gardens or along common road to the pond.
Budget options for protection against excess moisture
If it is possible to do without the expensive arrangement of a drainage system, you can try other measures:
- organization of the blind area;
- organization of storm drainage;
- construction of upland ditches;
- foundation waterproofing.
It makes sense to place the upland ditch on a slope, next to the site. It is located higher, “intercepts” the water, and diverts it to a drainage ditch or reservoir.
Waterproofing is carried out at the stage of foundation construction, laying a layer of modern waterproofing material on top of the base. Additionally, the inner surface of the walls of the lower floor and basement is treated with penetrating waterproofing.
Storm drainage will prevent water from destroying the foundation of the house Types of drainage
If none of the budget options suits you or does not lead to the desired effect, you will have to arrange the drainage of the site yourself. According to the principle of creation, it can be local and general. Local drainage solves specific problems (drainage of basement floors, building foundations). The general one is created by draining the entire territory of the site or its waterlogged part.
Types of implementation of drainage systems
Several drainage system schemes have been developed on the site:
- Ring. Drainage pipes form a closed loop around the site or house. They are laid 25-35cm below the groundwater level. The scheme is rarely used due to the complexity of implementation (serious depth is often required to locate the drainage system).
- Wall-mounted. It helps to drain water from the walls, so it is installed at a distance of 1.5-2.5 m from them. The drain is placed 5-10 cm below the level of crushed stone under the basement floor.
- Systematic. A developed and evenly distributed network of drainage canals throughout the territory. Drains are laid with a certain, pre-calculated step.
- Radial. Consists of a system of canals and drains combined into common system, resembling a Christmas tree. Installed to prevent flooding.
- Plastovaya. It removes water and is used in conjunction with a wall drainage system when creating a slab foundation. Reservoir drainage - layers of non-metallic materials poured into a pit, and waterproofing. Reinforcement is laid on top of them, and then the foundation is poured.
The open type of drainage can be covered with a grill for safety Installation methods
The type of drainage system is determined individually, based on the tasks being solved at the site. The way to install them is as follows:
- Closed. Excess water through special holes enters drainage pipes through which it is discharged into a storage well or reservoir. This outlet is well suited for soils with a high sand content that are highly permeable to water.
- Open. On the territory of the site (or around) channels with walls at an angle of 20-30º are carefully dug, and ceramic or concrete drainage trays are laid in them. To protect against wind-blown debris, ditches are covered with gratings. To prevent the canal walls from collapsing, their slopes are reinforced with stones or plants are planted.
- Backfill. It is used on loamy soils and areas with viscous clay soils. Drainage pipes with holes are laid in deep ditches, where a backfill of sand and crushed stone is placed, collecting water from nearby dense soils. The volume of backfill depends on the degree of moisture impermeability of local soils. The worse they conduct water, the more powerful the backfill.
The drainage system of the site is created taking into account the slope of the area and other indicators Do-it-yourself drainage on a site is a network of interconnected channels located in an area that needs to be protected from excess moisture. Special plastic pipes have 1.5-5mm holes through which excess moisture comes from the soil. The pipes are wrapped in several filter layers, the number of which depends on the composition of the soil. For clay soils, pipes with three layers of filter textile are used.
Diameter plastic pipes for private houses - up to 100mm, when removing significant volumes of moisture - up to 150mm. Inspection wells are installed at the points of their connection and rotation. Such elements make it easier to clean when clogged and allow you to monitor the system. The water flows into a single drainage well or discharge point (reservoir, ravine). A special collector well can be replaced by a concrete ring where pipes are discharged. In this case, it is important to provide a ring cover to prevent debris from entering.
Drainage pipes
Pipes for the drainage system can be purchased ready-made or created with your own hands. If there is no financial opportunity to buy these drainage components, they will help out plastic bottles. They are durable, so a system based on them will last at least 50 years. When creating a pipe, a hole is cut in the back of the bottle into which the neck of the next bottle is inserted. In another option, the bottles are simply stacked one after another with the caps tightly closed.
The laying of drainage pipes is carried out according to the scheme, taking into account the slope of the site From many bottles assembled in this way, a closed drainage system is formed, which creates an air cushion in the trench. Sand is first poured into the bottom of the trench. For the system to work, several pipes made in a similar way should be placed nearby. It is advisable to cover the rows of bottle pipes on top with geotextiles. Water passes through the gaps between adjacent bottles.
You can create a drainage pipe from a sewer pipe. A grinder will allow you to make holes in it for moisture to penetrate. Cuts 10-20cm long are made in the pipe, distributing the holes evenly over the surface.
It is important to provide a certain number of cuts so that sewage pipe has not lost strength. The width of the holes should be up to 5mm, the distance between them should not be more than 50cm.
A drill will also allow you to make holes. It is important to ensure that their diameter is smaller than the fraction of crushed stone being poured (otherwise it will fall into the pipe). The distance between the holes is up to 10cm.
Slope
The collected water easily drains by gravity if the slope of the drainage system is correctly selected. Its minimum value is 2 mm per linear meter of pipe, the maximum is 5 mm. For shallow drainage, the slope is set to 1-3 cm per 1 meter. At high speeds, water is sucked in fine particles soil, which causes silting of pipes.
Drainage of the site will allow all plants to develop normally Changing the standard slope is possible in the following situations:
- increasing the slope is carried out when it is necessary to drain a large volume of water per unit of time without increasing the diameter of the drain;
- reducing the slope is advisable if you need to avoid backwater when laying pipes below groundwater.
Drain installation
Preparing for installation of drainage around garden house requires digging trenches of given dimensions with an approximate slope. The bottom of the trenches is leveled and covered with a layer of coarse-grained river sand(about 100mm), carefully compacted.
The prepared sand is covered with geotextile, the fabric of which is lined along the walls of the trench. Next comes the layer crushed granite height 150-250mm (on loams - 250mm, on sandy soils - 150mm). Its fraction depends on the diameter of the holes in the drainage pipes: for holes with a diameter of 1.5 mm, crushed stone of a fraction of 6-8 mm is taken, for others - larger.
The crushed stone is carefully leveled to the required slope, compacted, after which a drainage pipe is laid on the formed “cushion”. It is filled with gravel in several layers, each of which is compacted (there must be at least 100mm of gravel on top of the drainage system). The ends of the geotextile are wrapped so that the overlap is about 20cm. It is covered with coarse sand to a height of 100-300 cm. A layer of “native” soil is placed on the compacted surface.
It is important to lay drainage from the lowest place in the area where the collector well has been previously installed. At high level surface and groundwater, water will accumulate in equipped ditches, forming a fluid mixture in combination with clay.
Drainage can be done using ceramic or PVC pipes. The design of the drainage system in these cases is similar Getting into the well, it can cause blockages. In addition, accumulated water interferes with the work of laying drains, since the ditches must be dry. Side pits with crushed stone will allow you to temporarily drain water.
Backfill materials
When arranging a drain, it is important to correctly select non-metallic materials that act as backfill. The crushed stone must be granite or hard, lime-free. Marble and dolomite (limestone) are not used to create a drainage cushion because they are susceptible to moisture. The crushed stone must be washed so that the pipes do not silt.
Order washed crushed stone from manufacturers the desired type and factions are not a problem. However, how can you determine whether existing crushed stone is suitable for drainage? It is enough to drop vinegar on it and determine whether a reaction occurs. If hissing and foam appear, such non-metallic material cannot be used (belongs to the calcareous group).
When selecting sand, preference is given to the coarse-grained fraction with a size of 0.5-1 mm. To determine its purity, you should fill some part with water, shake and evaluate the transparency of the liquid when the sand settles. Cloudy water indicates that the sand requires washing. Many modern suppliers of non-metallic materials are ready to provide high-quality, pre-washed sand in any volume.
Properly arranged drainage clay soil will significantly improve the condition of the land plot, and will avoid mud underfoot after melting snow and heavy rainfall. It will last for decades without repair and will allow you to do gardening for your pleasure. If desired, you can develop a landscape design that will disguise or benefit from the drainage system.
