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How log houses are cut. How to make a log house with your own hands? Video: about corner joints of timber

2016-02-24, 22:12

Tool Removing bark Laying out logs Initial markings Cutting feet Adjusting feet planes Log grooves

Cutting down a log house yourself is quite possible. Now we’ll find out all the details and see, and then the ax will be in your hands.

You won’t find this kind of material anywhere else on the Internet, since everywhere the cutting of a log house from first-class logs is shown, but it’s not easy for an inexperienced person to get first-class round timber, so we’ll cut from what God sent, without sacrificing quality.

At that time, God sent the forest felled by a hurricane, and there is no talk of the first grade. Nevertheless, we will make an excellent log house from it for a bathhouse.

If you get the first grade - great, make your work easier.

Tool

To make a log house you will need the following tools:

2. Hacksaw or chainsaw

3. Scherhebel plane or electric plane

4. Level 40 - 60 cm.

5. Metal ruler 40 - 60 cm.

6. Construction cord.

7. Template.

Learn more about the template, as it will need to be made. Pattern for a Canadian paw (dovetail). Here he is:

Template dimensions

A - width, taken relative to the crown (thin) part of the thinnest log. The width of the template is taken to be 4 centimeters narrower than this part. For example, if the thickness of the log is 20 cm, then the width of the template is 16 cm.

B - 3/4 of A

C and D - 2/4 from A

E - 1/4 of A

Removing the bark

First of all, remove the bark from the logs. From all. So that the log does not rot under the bark, but in warm time, the bark beetle would not become active under it.

This operation is done with a shovel sharpened like this:

With the bark removed, logs can lie for a very long time, but if the expected storage period exceeds six months, it is necessary to ensure ventilation and cover the top of the stack with roofing material, or something similar.

Laying out logs

The work begins with laying out the logs. To do this, two stands with recesses are made, on which the log is given the position required for marking.

If the material is of the first grade, without noticeable bends, the log is laid out along the annual rings so that the part where the annual rings are thinner will later appear on the outside of the log house.

If the material is not of the first grade, then the log is laid out in accordance with the existing bends, which should be facing either upwards or towards the outside. Or in both these directions. Just don't go down and in.

Be careful. At first glance, the log may seem very straight, but a look along it will immediately reveal the curvature.

When laying out, we also determine the direction of laying the logs in the log house relative to the previous one. The butt part is placed on the crown part, and vice versa.

Initial marking

The logs are selected as follows: the first crown is the thickest, then thinner and towards the middle the thinnest. from the 7th crown it is thicker again, and the last pressure crown is thick.

For marking, the log is trimmed. There are no special devices for this - it is done by eye, but the smoother the trim is made, the less adjustment there will be and the likelihood of gaps in the corners.

The trim is done exactly to size, the same for all logs of the wall.

After trimming according to the level, draw a horizontal line along the widest part of the end of the log (for the first grade it is the middle), mark its center, and take the width of the template from the center.

We draw two lines along the width of the template, along the vertical level, thereby beginning to outline the cheeks of the paw.

Then along these lines we stretch a thread between the ends of the log, and along it we draw the longitudinal part of the cheeks, 25 - 30 cm long. Only all are the same.

As a result, the ends of the log will have the following markings:

Paw cutting

According to the markings, we cut out the cheeks of the paw.

We adjust the width of the cheeks exactly to the width of the template so that it fits tightly, but without strain. Until your hand is full, it is better to make them with a small margin, and then trim them with an ax to the desired size.

A chainsaw is used to cut out the cheeks when there are knots on them. If there are no knots, then the entire segment is cut down with an ax.

Let's move on to making the paw seat. The first two logs have one seat - the top one.

We put the template on the paw in the middle and draw along the upper border. The narrow part of the template is located with outside walls.

From the edge of the border outlined according to the template, draw a line upward along the vertical level on both sides. The distance from the border to the top of the log, on the wide (inner) side, must be at least 5 centimeters.

.

Then we draw out the edge of the seat, cut through the end, and cut down a segment of the log. It is important when cutting the end not to make a cut below the border of the template.

The paw is made in the same way at the opposite end of the log. Then, according to the same instructions, a second log is made, which in the log house will be parallel to the first.

Let's move on to the transverse logs of the first crown. Trimming, marking and cheeks for a transverse log are done in exactly the same way as for the first one. But the paw is a little different, since it is already complete, with two landing pads, upper and lower.

First, the lower platform of the paw is made. We measure approximately 5 cm from the bottom of the log, install and outline the template.

Why about 5 cm? Since the logs are not perfectly even, and the trimming will most likely not be perfect at first, the template will most likely move away from the plane, so it will need to be adjusted to the lower leg, and this adjustment can eat up another 1 - 2 cm.

As a result, we get the normal depth of the paw. The depth of the paw should be approximately 0.5 of the width of the groove, so if the average width of the groove is 12 - 14 cm, then the depth of the paw is normally 6 - 7 cm.

Don't forget that the narrow end of the template is on the outside. You don't have to draw the top edge yet. I have outlined it here to make it clearer for you.

Now we draw the inner edge of the paw using a level.

We turn the log over, and just like on the first log, we draw the edge and make a cut, and we cut out the paw in the same way, only if on the first log we made the top of the paw, now, on the transverse one, we make the bottom.

We are not touching the upper fit yet, since the lower one will still have to be adjusted.

After this, we take an electric planer and process the knot protrusions. If there are sharp bends or protrusions on the log, then we trim them too.

We just have to adjust the planes of the legs of the longitudinal and transverse logs, but how to do this, so as not to repeat ourselves, I will show you on the second log, which will already have a groove on it.

In the meantime, let’s install the transverse ones and draw out the entire structure along the diagonals and level. The level is taken from the bottom of the first logs.

Adjustment of paw planes

We have the top of the paw of the first log and the bottom of the paw of the first transverse log ready. Now we need to adjust these planes.

First of all, we draw out the vertical. This is done using a level and a wedge.

Having positioned the log in this way, we look at the gap, determine and mark out the places on the paw that need to be cut so that there is no gap and the log lies strictly vertically.

After fitting, we measure the resulting depth of the lower plane of the paw, and using this size we draw according to the template and cut out the upper plane. This way the paw will be located exactly in the middle of the log.

Now we prepare the log three times. It will be longitudinal, with a groove, and all subsequent logs will be made according to the same instructions.

We position the log as mentioned above, cut out the cheeks and cut out the bottom of the paw to a depth of about 5 cm, process the knots and protrusions with a plane and install them on the previous one.

We set the vertical using a wedge, and look at the gap between the logs.

A wooden house is an aesthetic, environmentally friendly and safe housing, which is characterized by high heat and sound insulation properties, durability and reliability. Many people are interested in whether it is possible to assemble and install a log house with their own hands. It is possible to do this, but it is difficult. When installing, it is important to take into account a lot of factors, including the quality of the log, calculations of lumber and layout of the house, installation features, etc.

Please note that low-quality materials and errors in assembly will reduce the performance properties and service life of the house, lead to the appearance of rot and mold in the structure, warping of the walls and many other, no less serious, problems. But if you decide to build your own country house or baths, this article will tell you how to make a log house.

Design and selection of materials

Assembling a log house with your own hands begins with designing a house taking into account the features land plot, future engineering systems and room design. The layout of a log house can be rectangular or square, as well as shaped in the form of a semicircle, hexagon, etc. Of course, the construction of the first option will be much easier.

After creating the project and calculating the estimate, lumber is carefully selected. Rounded logs - best option for those who want to assemble a log house and build a house themselves.

Such logs are characterized by a smooth and even surface, identical sizes and diameters. This will allow installation to be carried out quickly and easily. In addition, logs tightly adjacent to each other will provide good thermal insulation. Due to the aesthetics and naturalness of materials, a house made of round wood will harmoniously fit into environment. A wooden structure will look elegant and original. Read more about the advantages of a log house.

To get reliable and durable house, you only need to use quality logs. It is desirable that the lumber be from forested regions and undergo special processing. At the MariSrub company, timber harvesting takes place in Kirov region, Republics of Mari El and Komi. These regions are famous for their good, large and moisture-resistant wood.

Raw materials and logs undergo careful selection and processing in the company’s own workshop. The wood is impregnated and processed protective equipment from the negative effects of moisture and insects. Such materials will last longer and retain their original appearance and properties.

Choose logs harvested from winter forest. Since such wood is stronger and more resistant to moisture. The presence of knots of small diameter and small natural defects is allowed on lumber. The trunks of quality materials are characterized by yellow or dark yellow color. These must be unspun logs of the same diameter and the same wood species. There should be no mechanical damage, rot or wormholes on the surface.

How to bandage a log house

After the materials have been selected and the foundation for the wooden house has been installed, the assembly of the log house begins. There are two main types of lashing or tying of logs. This is “in the cup” and “in the paw”. Both methods characterize the stability and strength of the structure of the future house, and they differ in the creation of grooves.

Cutting “into a bowl” or “into an oblo” is a traditional Russian method of assembling a log house. He assumes that the corners of the structure are connected to the release of the ends two times the diameter of the log. Because of this, lumber costs increase. The construction of such a house will cost more, but the warmth inside will remain for a long time. In addition, the corners of the building will not be subjected to negative impact wind and precipitation.

The “in the paw” method assumes that the logs are laid along the bracket, aligned along the outer edge and the excess is trimmed off from the inside. This is a colder room, so for insulation the ends are covered with boards. This is also necessary in order to protect the sawn wood from rotting. Please note that the log house needs to be hewn inside.

Tying logs “in the paw” has a more modern and aesthetic appearance and less wood wasted. But to create a warm and durable home, it will take a lot additional work. Therefore, such cutting will become a labor-intensive process.

Loghouse installation technology

• Waterproofing is laid on the horizontal surface of the poured foundation. As suitable material roofing felt For laying, the foundation is lubricated when heated and roofing felt sheets are placed on top. After drying, make another layer;
• The waterproofing layer is covered with boards at least 5 centimeters thick, and a layer of tow or jute is laid on top of the boards. This will enhance thermal insulation properties, because up to 40% of the heat escapes through the floor and foundation!;
• The frame is installed on the insulation layer. As a rule, production logs are numbered. This wall kit is easy to assemble according to the attached diagram;
• Lay the crowns strictly level, row by row, and fasten them with dowels. Make sure the logs lie flat!;
• A layer of insulation, also in the form of tow or jute, is placed on each laid crown. The insulation is secured using a construction stapler;
• In addition to bandaging at the corners, the logs are connected every meter of length using spikes. Additional fastening will make the structure stable.

The final stage

After assembly, the log house is left for 0.5-1.5 years for shrinkage, in which case it is better to close the structure plastic film for waterproofing. During this period, you can sew up the floors and install rafters for the future roof. The floors are sewn up using boards with a thickness of 60 mm, which are laid on beams. The boards are connected using tenons. The ceiling can be laid in the same way.

After installing the roof, finishing work begins. First of all, this is insulation of the floor, ceiling and walls. Don't forget about engineering systems, including electricity and plumbing, ventilation and sewerage. These communications must be completed before interior decoration. Moreover, the location and installation of these systems are calculated at the stage of designing the house!

Log installation and construction wooden house Do it yourself - a complex and labor-intensive process that requires knowledge and skills. Incorrect sequence and technology of work, poor quality materials and lack of experience will lead to serious problems. Therefore, it is better to entrust the work to professionals!

The masters of the MariSrub company will build a turnkey wooden house, cottage or bathhouse! We offer services for creating a project for the house of your dreams, assembling and installing a log frame, installing a foundation and roof, arranging communications and finishing the building. The company has its own workshop for the production of rounded and chopped logs. Independent production— guarantee of careful quality control and low prices!

Building a bathhouse from a log house is not simple task, however, the construction technology, the choice of materials and even the exact sequence of actions have long been known and worked out by many craftsmen.

This material explains everything key points, which will help in the construction of a log bathhouse: from laying the foundation to interior finishing.

The steam bath has been known since the time of the Scythians, who carried with them special bath tents and camp heaters. And in the 21st century, the Russian bathhouse has not become some kind of archaism, having successfully withstood centuries-old competition with bathtubs and showers. Get rid of many ailments, remove from the body harmful substances, accumulated in city everyday life, give the body good rest- all this is achieved by visiting the bathhouse for more than one and a half thousand years.

Which design is preferable, how to choose a place to place it, how it is designed in general - you will find answers to many “bathroom” questions in this article.

Place and layout of the bathhouse

One of the important additions to the bathhouse itself at all times was a reservoir of fresh water located nearby - in the absence of another source of water supply, water was taken from it. The special charm of the proximity of such a reservoir lies in the possibility of a contrasting ablution - after steaming in a Russian bathhouse, running out of it and plunging into the cool water of the reservoir. In addition, the natural reservoir made it possible to quickly cope with a fire in the bathhouse, which occurred quite often due to violations in the construction of the stove.

Bound today country bathhouse there is no particular need for a natural reservoir, but it is still convenient if it is located near, say, an artificial reservoir - the final decision always remains with the owner of the dacha.

The main criteria for choosing a place for a bathhouse: distance from the road, the presence of natural or artificial fencing from outside spectators (dense bushes, tree crowns, fence, outbuildings), the fire distance from the main residential building is at least 15 meters.

The main rooms of the bathhouse are the dressing room, washing room and steam room (the last two rooms can be combined into one). The size of the dressing room is determined at the rate of 1.4 m 2 per bather, the size of the washing room is 1.2 m 2 per person. In addition, the dressing room should have space for furniture (a locker for clothes, a bench for sitting) and for storing fuel (a box for coal or firewood). In the washing room you will need space for containers with hot and cold water, a stove and space for sun loungers.

For example, for a small family (no more than 4 people) a bathhouse of the following sizes is suitable: outer size- 4x4 m; dressing room - 1.5x2.4 m; washing room - 2x2 m; steam room - 2x1.5 m. True, in a bathhouse of this size you can’t really turn around - but it also takes up little space.

In general, the size of the bathhouse is directly related to the size of the area that can be allocated for it. If the area is significant, then the bathhouse can be expanded by adding a shower cabin, rest rooms, etc.

In temperate and cold climate zones, it will be correct if the entrance to the bathhouse is located in the south, and window openings- on the western (southwestern) side of it. This location of the entrance will greatly simplify the use of the bathhouse in the winter season, since snowdrifts on the south side melt faster, and the direction of the windows will allow longer illumination of its premises. sunlight.

Bathhouse construction - stages

There are several of them:

1. Procurement of basic materials.
2. Selecting and laying the foundation.
3. Creating a foundation for a stove (if necessary).
4. Creation of the floor and sewer system of the bathhouse.
5. Assembling a log bathhouse.
6. Construction of the roof.
7. Formation of a blind area around the perimeter.
8. Caulking bath walls.
9. Laying or installing a stove, installing a chimney.
10. Electricity and water supply for the bathhouse.
11. Installation of doors and installation of shelves.

Preparation of basic materials for the bath

Classic and most successful construction material For the Russian bath there was and will be wood - wood easily copes with waterlogging of bath rooms, removing excess moisture outside.

What wood is suitable for building a bathhouse? As a rule, baths are built from round timber of pine or spruce with a diameter of no more than 250 mm - only wood will create an indescribable internal atmosphere in the steam room. However, in some places it is better to include wood of other species in the design of the bathhouse - oak, larch and linden. For example, lower crowns and floor joists made of oak will allow you to get a truly durable bathhouse. A nuance - the oak must be cut down “in its sap” (i.e., not dead wood) and dried under a canopy. The lower crowns (no more than 4) following the first oak crown are best made of larch. The final crowns, elements of interior decoration and cladding should be made of linden or white spruce - their wood removes moisture better than others.

When do you need to stockpile wood for building a bathhouse? Round wood, wood for interior decoration, must be cut down in winter, during the period when tree trunks contain the least amount of moisture - it is easier to dry. In addition, not the entire tree trunk is suitable for building a bathhouse - only the middle part of the trunk is suitable, i.e. the top and butt are not suitable.

An important criterion When selecting wood, there will be an absence of cavities and drips of resin on the coniferous round timber, a dry, sanded surface, the absence of rotten areas and places infested with wood-boring beetles.

Bathhouse foundation

The main types of foundation for the construction of baths are strip and columnar, depending on local soils. Regardless of the type of foundation chosen, it is necessary to lay them with the utmost care - preferably to the depth of soil freezing. Preliminary work before laying a foundation of any type: clearing the site of debris, completely removing the top layer of soil to a depth of 200 mm (we remove fertile layer).

To choose the right foundation, you need to determine the type of local soil, which can belong to one of three main groups:

1. Weak soil consists of peat, silt, silty sand (contains a lot of water), fluid or fluid-plastic clay.
2. Heaving soil (subject to seasonal swelling) consists of sand (silty or fine), clay components (clay, loam and sandy loam).
3. Slightly heaving soil is formed by rocks, medium and large grains of sand.

Columnar (pile) foundation for a bathhouse

Installed on slightly heaving soils: it consists of pillars laid in the corners of the bathhouse, as well as at the junction of internal and external walls. If the distance between two adjacent foundation pillars is more than 2 m, another pillar is laid between them. Bookmark depth columnar foundation- at least 1.5 m.

Pillars for such a foundation can be easily made directly at the site where the bathhouse was built; the material for them can be red brick, rubble stone, bonded concrete mortar. The main (corner) brick pillars for a columnar foundation are usually square in shape, with a side of 380 mm, auxiliary ones are rectangular, with a cross-section of 380x250 mm. If necessary, the main pillars are made of two bricks - with a section of 510x510 mm. Saving rubble stone and brick during the construction of a columnar foundation is achieved by filling the foundation pits with sand - half their depth; coarse sand is laid in layers (each layer is 100–150 mm), filled with water and compacted.

When building a bathhouse with your own hands, you can also make foundation pillars yourself. To do this, you will need a collapsible formwork made of boards, coated on the inside with a non-hardening lubricant such as Emulsol. You need to place iron reinforcement inside the assembled formwork, then pour the concrete mixture.

To cast foundation pillars inside holes dug for them, sliding formwork made of roofing iron, plastic, roofing felt or thick cardboard is used. From the material selected for sliding formwork, a pipe with a diameter of 200 mm is created, which is placed in a foundation pit of a larger diameter - from 300 mm. The free space around the formwork is filled with sand - it will act as a lubricant and prevent the concrete pillar from rising when the soil swells. Reinforcement tied with thick wire is inserted inside the formwork, then a concrete mixture is poured, which must be thoroughly compacted. Using wire handles pre-fixed to the sliding formwork, it is lifted by swaying by 400 mm, sand is poured on the outside and a new portion of concrete is poured.

Asbestos-cement pipes can be used as a columnar foundation; they are durable, not subject to rot, and their outer surface is quite smooth, which allows them not to change their position when the soil swells. Asbestos-cement pipes are also filled with concrete; their underground part must be coated with a mineral-based construction lubricant to reduce the risk of freezing to the ground.

In the spaces between the foundation pillars of the outer walls of the bathhouse and the inner walls of the steam room, brick walls are laid out; their thickness is sufficient - brick and even half a brick. Such brick walls must be buried 250 mm into the ground.

The foundation pillars and brick walls between them are raised to a height of 300–400 mm from the ground level; they need to be leveled with cement mortar and covered with roofing felt for waterproofing. During casting, metal embedments of the required shape are installed at the ends of the pillars - they are designed to fasten the bathhouse frame to the foundation.

When building a bathhouse on heaving soils, it will be necessary to create a strip monolithic foundation.

Sequence of work:

1. Marking a construction site with twine stretched between pegs.
2. Digging a trench of the required depth (its size is related to the characteristics of local soils, at least 400 mm) and 300 mm wide.
3. Add a layer of sand to the bottom of the trench, then gravel (each 70–100 mm).
4. Installation of formwork.
5. Laying reinforcement.
6. Fill concrete mixture.

The reinforcement laid at the bottom of the foundation trenches must have a cross-section of at least 12 mm; it is laid along each of the two sides of the trench and knitted into a frame, lifted to its middle using brick fragments.

The composition of the concrete mixture is calculated in the proportion 5:3:1 (crushed stone: sand: cement), the sand used must be dry and clean (washed). Calculate the volume of concrete required for pouring strip foundation, quite simple, you just need to measure the width, depth and total length of the foundation. For example, with a width of 0.3 m, a depth of 0.4 m and a total length of 22 m, the following volume of concrete mixture will be required:

• 0.3 x 0.4 x 22 = 2.64 m3

One of the difficulties when preparing a dry concrete mixture is the lack of scales. construction sites. Therefore, this method of calculating dry components for concrete will be useful to you: one 10-liter bucket holds from 15 to 17 kg of crushed stone, sand - from 14 to 17 kg, cement - from 13 to 14 kg.

The formwork is placed in such a way that the person cast into it concrete foundation protruded 100 mm above the ground level. As the concrete mixture is poured into the prepared formwork, its mass must be pierced repeatedly with a bayonet shovel or a wire probe, and the outer side of the formwork must be tapped with a hammer (we eliminate air pockets). Then you need to wait until the foundation is completely cured, approximately 5 to 7 days. When carrying out foundation work in the cold season, after pouring the concrete, the formwork must be covered with PVC film and covered with sawdust or other insulation on top.

After the expiration of the period allocated for drying the cast foundation, we proceed to waterproofing it and lifting it in brick rows (if lifting the bathhouse is not required, then after waterproofing we proceed to the cement screed). Will be needed following materials:

1. Ruberoid.
2. Pipe about 2 m (plastic or metal), with a cross-section from 32 to 57 mm.
3. Masonry mesh.
4. Red brick.
5. Masonry mortar.

Roofing felt (roofing felt) is cut into strips sufficient for laying on a concrete foundation, then laid on top of the foundation on bitumen mastic(for roofing felt - tar mastic). The brick is laid using a single-row dressing method: masonry mortar is laid on a layer of roofing material, the first brick row is placed on it “in a butt” (across the foundation axis), then a masonry mesh is laid, the mortar is laid and the next brick row is laid, but in a “spoon” (along the axis foundation). Every new row brickwork accompanied by flooring masonry mesh, placements “in a spoon” and “in a poke” alternate with each other. In the 3rd or 5th bonded rows of masonry, you need to install ventilation vents from pipe scraps - 5-7 vents are enough for the entire foundation. The number of brick rows depends on the desired foundation height.

The last row of brickwork is covered with a cement screed (mortar composition sand:cement as 1:2 or 1:3), with a 20 mm layer.

Independent foundation for the heater and bath floor

We create the foundation for the stove and assemble the sauna frame. If capital masonry of the heater is planned, it requires an independent foundation, that is, not connected to the main foundation.

The floor in the bathhouse can be clay, earthen, wood or concrete. By and large, it does not need thermal insulation, since the temperature at its level is practically no higher than 30 ° C. A wooden grate, cork mats or mats are usually laid on the surface of the bath floor - their task is to relieve bathhouse visitors from the sharp feeling of cold caused by touching the floor at the exit from the steam room. For self-drying, the flooring is raised above the level of the main floor.

The main disadvantage of a wooden bathhouse floor is its frequent waterlogging - water, penetrating through the cracks between the boards, will accumulate in them, causing rot and the appearance of an unpleasant odor. Wooden covering the floor wears out quickly, becoming unsightly appearance, may require replacement after 6–8 years. Tile tiles would be more practical for bath flooring - they are easier to care for, they are not susceptible to moisture, which easily flows down its surface.

Floors in bathhouses should be placed on at different levels: the steam room floor is 150 mm above the level of the washing room floor (we retain heat), the washing room floor is 30 mm below the floor level in the dressing room (we protect it from water).

Since installing a concrete floor covered with ceramic tiles in the washing room and steam room is more profitable than a wooden floor, we will consider this option.

There are several ways to install a concrete floor in a bathhouse. First of all, we prepare the base for the formation of a warm floor - it consists of a 100 mm layer of sand and a 100 mm layer of medium-fraction crushed stone, laid sequentially. Each layer should be well compacted and leveled. Then lay roofing felt on top, covering the walls with it to the height of the future floor.

Further actions:

1. First option- laying a 50 mm layer of felt, expanded clay or slag, on top of a 50 mm layer of concrete with the formation of a slope towards the drain hole. After the concrete has set, it needs to be leveled with a cement solution, after which you can begin tiling work.
2. Second option- 50 mm cement strainer, containing perlite (expanded sand). Mixture composition: perlite: cement: water as 5: 1: 3. After a full week has passed since the perlite concrete was laid, we apply a 30 mm layer of concrete on top with a slope towards the drain. When dealing with perlite, you need to be especially careful - this material is extremely light, even a light breeze blows it away, so you need to work with it indoors without drafts. Observe the proportion of water exactly!

If the base of the bathhouse is raised significantly above the ground level (from 300 mm), flooring will require wooden joists square section (side 150 mm). If the dimensions of the bathhouse premises do not exceed 2000x3000 mm, then the supports for the logs will be the frame logs. For large sizes, additional supports for floor joists will be required; they are pillars made of concrete or brick (250x250 mm) and are placed at a distance of 700–800 mm. Support pillars for logs it is necessary to place them on a multi-layer base of sand, crushed stone and concrete - each 100 mm thick.

Important! Before forming the base to support the logs, it is necessary to make a foundation for the stove and build a sewerage system.

The wood for the logs can be oak, larch or coniferous trees; the logs should be treated with tar or an antiseptic before installation.

The floor covering solution in this case is as follows: the concrete space between the foundation is covered with roofing felt with the walls overlapping to the height of the floor, filled with slag or expanded clay (between the layer of roofing felt and bulk insulation you can lay a layer of 200 mm polystyrene foam), a subfloor made of 29 mm is attached to the underside of the joists edged boards. Then a PVC film, foil mineral insulation, and another layer of film are laid for vapor barrier. Pour a 5 mm layer of concrete with fine filler on top, create a slope under the drain hole - after 3-4 days we put ceramic tiles.

Don't forget to bring the foundation for the stove to floor level.

The floor in the dressing room is made of 19-29 mm tongue-and-groove boards made of coniferous wood.

An important point: when finishing a clean floor, and indeed the entire steam room and washing room, do not use synthetic Construction Materials- the condition is especially relevant for a steam room!

Bath sewage system

To drain wastewater from the bathhouse you will need: a pit with a water seal, a well for Wastewater and pipes that drain dirty water into a pit and then into a waste well.

The pit is torn off from the outside of the bathhouse foundation, and gravity pipes made of plastic, cast iron or ceramics are inserted into it from the steam room and washing room (metal pipes will quickly rust).

The pit should be 500 mm from the foundation, its depth - 700 mm, cross-section - 500x500 mm. The walls of the pit are covered with a 100 mm layer of concrete, and a 110 mm drain pipe(s) from the bathhouse is inserted into it under the foundation. The main well for drainage, containing at least 2 m3, must be dug at a distance of at least 2.5 m from the pit - the further the better. A pipe is supplied to it from the pit, laid at a slope at a depth of 1.5 m (below the freezing depth), its outlet from the pit must be located 100 mm from its bottom. After entering drain pipe, the main drainage well is filled with gravel or sand 1 m from the bottom, soil is poured on top - in a layer of at least 500 mm. When laying, carefully compact each layer.

Before leading the drain pipe into the pit, a galvanized water seal is installed, located at an obtuse angle to the drain pipe from the bathhouse. Its edges and upper side are hermetically attached to the walls of the pit, the distance from its lower edge to the bottom should be no more than 50 mm - thanks to this design, unpleasant odors and cold air will not penetrate into the steam room (washing room) through the drainage hole.

To prevent freezing in winter, the pit must be covered with two covers of the appropriate size (wooden or metal), felt should be placed between them, and the top cover should be covered with expanded clay, slag or sawdust.

Log house, roofing and blind area

It is better to make a log house for a bathhouse to order from professional performers; its production is quite difficult. The finished log house in disassembled form must be brought to the construction site and assembled according to the numbering of the logs. The crowns are fastened with steel 25 mm tenon brackets with a total length of up to 150 mm, a tooth length of up to 70 mm.

The roof structure of the bathhouse includes rafters, sheathing is attached to them, then roofing material. The choice of final roof structure depends on roofing covering, with which it will overlap. The rafters are attached to the last crown of the frame (preferably the penultimate one) using tenon brackets. As a rule, the construction of baths involves the arrangement of one or gable roof, the slope angle (from 10° to 60°) which depends on the abundance and amount of precipitation in the area. Please note - the steeper the roof, the more material is required to create it.

Single-pitch rafters, located at an angle, are secured with two external or internal and external supports. If the span of the rafters exceeds 5 m, they are supported with additional struts. The rafters of a gable roof rest with their lower ends on the walls, the upper ends are connected to each other, forming a ridge.

The roof of the bathhouse can be covered with any material (slate, tiles, roofing felt, galvanized, etc.), with an overlap of at least 500 mm on the walls.

The attic space must be made ventilated, that is, equipped with two doors at opposite ends of the roof.

We make a blind area along the perimeter of the foundation: we completely remove the top layer of soil, go deeper by 200 mm at a distance of 600-800 mm from the base of the bathhouse, lay a 100 mm layer of gravel (crushed stone, expanded clay) and then level it. Let's lay it down expansion joints(19 mm board coated with resin or bitumen, in increments of 2-2.5 m perpendicular to the foundation), fill with a 100 mm layer of concrete. Before the concrete sets, its surface must be ironed - cover with a layer of dry cement of 3-5 mm. After 3 days, the line of contact between the blind area and the foundation of the bathhouse must be covered with bitumen to waterproof it.

Sauna log caulk

Performed to insulate a log house - sealing the cracks between its logs; caulking material is traditionally used flax tow, red moss, hemp hemp, wool felt. Natural materials for caulking can be replaced with factory-made ones made from jute and flax fibers: flax batting and felts - jute and flax-jute. The advantage of factory-made caulking materials over natural ones is their resistance to moths and fungi, and it is easier to work with factory-made material, since it is produced in the form of a continuous strip of a given thickness and width.

Caulking of a log house is carried out during its assembly - caulking material is laid between the logs during their laying. After the roof is built, full caulking is carried out - from the outside and inside log house, after a year - re-caulking (the log house settles - the logs dry).

The main tools for caulking are a spatula and a mallet; you can make them yourself or purchase ready-made ones. Both of these instruments are made of wood (ash, oak or beech). A caulking shovel looks like a wedge with a handle 200 mm long and a pointed blade 100 mm, the thickness of the handle is 30 mm, the width of the blade at the base is 65 mm, at the end - 30 mm. The wooden mallet has a round shape: the diameter of the handle is 40 mm, its length is 250 mm, the diameter of the striking part is 70 mm, its length is 100 mm.

Caulking is done in two ways - “set” or “stretched”. The second way to caulk is as follows: we collect the caulking material into a strand, lay it in the gap between the logs and push it there with the help of a spatula, filling the gap completely, without gaps. Then we collect the tow with a roller, apply it to the caulked groove, take out small strands of material from it, wrap them around the roller and drive it into the groove using a spatula and a roller - with force, until you are completely sure that the groove (slot) is filled.

The first method of caulking log houses is designed to cover large grooves (slots). We twist the material for caulking into 2 mm strands, form several loops from them and drive them into the gap. Loops are collected in a quantity sufficient to completely fill the gap.

Rules for caulking:

• First, the material is hammered along the upper edge of the log and only then along the lower edge;
• We begin caulking work from the cracks of the lower crown, on both sides. Then we move to the lower crown of the adjacent wall and so on. Having finished caulking the cracks lower crowns, we begin work on the next one in height, moving from this crown to the next one in the nearest wall (from right to left or left to right, it doesn’t matter).

Under no circumstances should you caulk only one wall - it will rise and cause the frame to skew and you will have to disassemble/assemble it again. Let us remind you once again: caulking is done in a “bottom-up” direction along the perimeter of the log house.

Installing a stove

There are many design options for bath stoves; they can be heated with wood, gas, liquid fuel or use built-in heating elements and heat up from electricity, they can be brick, cast iron or metal. Brick kilns in bathhouses they are made with a wall thickness of “half a brick” or “a whole brick”, masonry seams must be bandaged especially carefully, striving for their smallest thickness to achieve the greatest efficiency of the stove. Only red brick is used for laying the stoves. The furnace of the stove is led into the dressing room, its remaining three walls are located in the washing room (steam room), and the distance from them to the walls of the washing room must be at least 250 mm - in this case, the heat will not go “into the walls”.

For a cast iron or metal stove, the formation of an independent foundation is not required - only for a brick one.

Heaters installed for those who like to steam are equipped with a chamber containing stones of various weights (from 1 to 5 kg). Rubble, pebbles, boulders and granite are suitable for filling the heater chamber. The design of these furnaces is extremely simple - similar to kitchen stoves, heaters differ from them by having a wider pipe or the presence of a chamber with stones.

To get the most high temperature In the steam room, you need to add cast iron ingots to the stones in a percentage ratio of 80:20 (stones: ingots). For every 1 m 3 of steam room you will need at least 6 kg of stones and cast iron pigs.

By maintaining a distance of 40–50 mm in the furnace between its walls and the water heating boiler, the effect of all-round blowing of the boiler with hot gases and rapid heating of the water is achieved.

For better traction need to be withdrawn chimney as close to the roof ridge as possible. When laying a chimney through the attic, be sure to fluff the pipe 380 mm. Remember that the pipe should not pass near roofing sheathing and rafters closer than 150 mm (fire safety standards).

Electricity and water supply for the bathhouse

To wash one bathhouse user, at least 8 liters are required hot water. This amount can be provided in several ways: heat a container of water on a heater, use a gas water heater, or install an electric heater - a boiler. If there is a central water supply, the pipeline to the bathhouse leads from the main house - water from such a pipeline system must be drained into winter time, otherwise it will freeze and burst the pipes.

Water can be taken from a well or borehole by installing a submersible pump to pump it in and equipping such a water supply system with purification filters. And in this case, in winter, the water must either be drained after each use of the bathhouse, or the supply pipes must be insulated.

You need to extend an independent line to the bathhouse to supply electricity, and the easiest way is to do it by air (air). For the air supply you will need a special cable - we sweep away the “bare” aluminum immediately, settling on two options: SIP (self-supporting insulated wire) and VVGng. The first type of cable is very good, it has a long service life (more than 30 years), it is durable and does not need to be supported by a supporting cable. But it is extremely difficult to spend time with him installation work, because it is too thick (minimum section - 16 mm 2). Aluminum SIP cannot be pulled through the attic of a bathhouse according to fire safety standards; it is required to be attached to special anchor clamps - considering the amount of costs and hassle with its installation, its cost will be expensive.

A simpler solution is air copper cable VVGng, fixed to the carrier steel cable. The cable is suspended from the cable on a plastic-insulated wire; its service life is up to 10 years, after which it must be replaced (!). For a single-core VVGng cable (of course, there must be two cores - each of them must be in an independent double braid), pulled over the air to the bathhouse, optimal cross-section will be 2.5 mm 2 - it is not known exactly what electrical equipment the owner of the dacha will want to power from it in the future.

All wiring boxes, sockets and switches, and electrical panels must be for outdoor installation only. According to the rules fire safety It is prohibited to install junction boxes, switches and sockets in the washing/steam room - only in the dressing room. Don't joke with the possibility of a short circuit in a wooden structure - all internal wiring baths should be made only in non-flammable corrugated hose, secured with special clips, cable passage through partitions - only through steel pipe.

Try to arrange the cables in a junction box, socket or lamp so that they enter there from the bottom or side, but not from the top - a drop of condensate sliding along the braid can cause a short circuit.

All electrical appliances must have a moisture protection class of at least IP44 (preferably the maximum - IP54). Install simple lamps- metal body, glass shade only. All connections of the internal cable routing are made only on the terminal block, no twists. And install an RCD in the shield, setting it to 30 mA.

To work in the electrical panel and install an RCD, be sure to invite a qualified electrician if you are not one yourself!

Installation of partitions, ceilings, interior decoration, installation of windows and doors

Internal partitions in the bathhouse can be brick or wood, followed by heat and moisture insulation in both cases. The partition between the washing room and the dressing room, in which the stove is installed, must be made of brick, or there are brick inserts in it, with single brick masonry - on the sides in contact with the stove body.

Interior finishing is usually carried out in cases where the bathhouse itself is built of brick, stone or timber - here the finishing scheme is classic: insulation, vapor barrier film and lining. In addition, when performing external and internal finishing, you will have to rebuild ventilation system baths, because log logs will be covered with cladding and will not be able to provide full ventilation.

The ceiling is formed in two layers - rough and finishing. The rough ceiling is attached to the horizontal roof joists, if necessary reinforced with intermediate beams. Its area is covered with insulation - expanded clay or slag. From inside the washing/steam room rough ceiling insulation and a vapor barrier film are attached, after which the ceiling is covered with a finishing finish - linden, pine tongue-and-groove boards (20 mm thick - the thicker the board, the longer it will retain the woody smell).

You need to install windows in the bathhouse small size(on average 500x700 mm) and embed them low - enough so that the person sitting on the bench can look out through them. Windows in the bathhouse are always made with double glazing, depending on the size - with a window or completely hinged - for quick ventilation.

Doors in bathhouses must be installed so that they open outward - for fire safety reasons. The material for the door leaves is a tongue-and-groove board (40-50 mm) or a board with a selected quarter; the boards are fastened with dowels. The size of the sashes must be deliberately reduced by 5 mm - more than is needed for the actual distance between the quarters of the jambs - otherwise, when humidity increases, the sashes will swell and it will be difficult to open (close) it. The optimal door size in the washing compartment of the bathhouse is 600x1600 mm, in the steam room - 800x1500 mm, with a threshold height of about 300 mm above the floor (it’s uncomfortable to walk, but it will keep you warm). The hinges for hanging the door leaves are brass, opening into the dressing room (washing room) and into the washing room (steam room). Door handles are wooden (especially in the steam room).

The material for the shelves is linden, pine, poplar or aspen. The minimum length of the shelves is 1800 mm, width - 500–800 mm. The distance between the “floors” of double-row shelves should be at least 350 mm, the minimum distance from the second row to ceiling covering- 1100 mm.

The lying surface is formed by a board with a width of 80 mm, a thickness of 40 mm, and a gap of 15 mm wide is formed between the boards. A distance of 10 mm is maintained from the wall to the shelf. Boards for sheathing shelves are attached to a frame made of timber with a cross-section of 50x70 mm in two ways: from above - using nails, the heads of which are recessed into the wood; from below - using screws. For fastening, choose nails and screws from of stainless steel or copper.

All corners in the shelf structure are rounded, the surfaces are carefully cleaned with zero-grade sandpaper.

For greater convenience, the shelves in the steam room are equipped with a headboard: the height at the beginning of the rise is 30 mm, the length of the headboard is 460 mm, the final maximum height is 190 mm.

When choosing material for creating shelves, be careful - it is believed that knotty areas are more dense and can lead to skin burns. Therefore, try to choose boards and timber without any knotty areas or with a minimum number of them.

Fire precautions

Protect the bathhouse premises from the threat of fire - lay a steel sheet in front of the furnace firebox, make sure the stove doors are securely fastened, install fire extinguishing means nearby (a container with water, sand and fire extinguishers). Make sure you can open the doors of the steam room and washing room freely when lighting the sauna. Do not block passages or the space in front of doors and windows.

The intersection of corners in a wooden house plays a big role in the comfortable operation of the latter. They can take on the cold, become a breeding ground for mold, become damp and have other disadvantages. Corners cut into a paw or half a tree have such a set of serious defects.

They are used when they want to save on material. Indeed, the internal area and external squares remain the same as stated in the project. But this saving is mythical and corners in the paw are abandoned in favor of such a process as the technology of cutting a log into a bowl. The advantages of such an act are below.

Essence and varieties

What is the notorious chopping block? This is a semicircular recess of a log on the surface. When mating, the crowns become jammed, and after shrinkage, the strength of the bowl is extraordinary. The wood is marked in such a way that the end of the trunk to the bowl is 25-30 cm, that is, the corners will not be blown by all the winds, and, therefore, react less to temperature changes, which eliminates the appearance of condensation.

Canadian and Norwegian craftsmen, famous for their skill in hand-building houses, once simply adopted the cutting method from their Russian neighbors, and many centuries later the name of the technology is considered to have come from another country. Theirs, or more precisely our variety, is more reliable than an ordinary bowl, because it has a tail spike; when the wood shrinks and jams, it tightly fixes the crowns, not giving them a single chance to move.

In order to accurately cut corners, experience is required, since ignorant home-grown craftsmen are unlikely to succeed the first time. How to cut a log house into a bowl - the process is described below.

Chopping into a bowl - independent work

Correct marking is the key to accurate pairing. Venerable carpenters have for this special device- the devil. This is a hammer with two sharp rods that allow you to accurately outline the contour of the future bowl. But for the average person this is a complex process, so it is worth using ordinary measuring instruments and marking each log separately. Below is the process step by step:

You can cut a log frame into a bowl yourself with your own hands. But in the absence of skills, this work will drag on.

Suggestions from professionals

As already mentioned, there are a lot of varieties of such pairing. The cutting of a log into a bowl can be Russian, Canadian, or Siberian. The Norwegian carriage is unusually beautiful. It is a log of a special geometric shape chopped on all sides, which together gives a picture of carving. By consulting with specialists, you can choose an acceptable option for yourself, since complexity still affects the cost of the work. Solving the question of how to cut a log into a cup is difficult. But the venerable carpenters, who built such houses for centuries, accumulated a lot useful tricks, leading efforts to a strong result of the entire construction and for the sake of helping non-professionals. So:

• Inexperienced craftsmen can work with a hand saw for the first time to mark the notches. And choose the excess with a chisel.
• Trying on the next log will help you maintain accuracy. If this is tiring, then it is useful to make a template corresponding to the diameter. It is made from a sheet of tin, so that hardness is present.
• When trying on the top log, the joint is blackened with charcoal. Once picked up, it becomes clear how much more remains to be selected.
• Each crown is checked by level. If there is a discrepancy and if a lot is cut down, all hope is on the sealant.

It needs to be placed in two or three layers on the bottom of the bowl and thus the height will be maintained. You need to use jute or moss - they have good hygroscopic properties and will not allow even a drop of moisture to reach the wood.

• Canadian log cutting into a cup can become even stronger if the top of the tenon is slightly sharpened. The groove should be a couple of millimeters smaller. Thus, the tenon will fit tightly into the intended hole, and when it shrinks, it will securely jam.
• Before final assembly, the bowl seats should be impregnated with special compounds against biological threats. This will make the corners reliable in terms of penetration of damage from the outside.

Due to inexperience, owners can ruin a large amount of material. It will be even more offensive if it is a valuable coniferous species.

Therefore, it makes sense to order the work from professionals or purchase a ready-made house kit, chopped into a bowl. Such houses are assembled like a construction kit within a couple of weeks or a month, depending on the complexity of the work and the object.

The desire to build a house yourself is commendable. Manual cutting– a good way to practice building your own wooden house. Having considered all the options and made a choice in favor of the “bowl”, you can guarantee that the object will be durable, and most importantly, comfortable for living.

Making a log frame is a difficult but fascinating process. This guide to building a log house will provide complete information and answer most questions that may arise during the work. Here you can find a point-by-point analysis of all stages of construction, nuances and little tricks. The instructions will tell you what tools you will need and introduce you to the terminology of carpenters.

Preparatory work

What tools should you get to build a log house with your own hands?

1. Carpenter's axe. It should be comfortable, not too heavy, but not light either.
2. Square.
3. Chisel.
4. Roulette.
5. Marker or simple pencil.
6. Plumb.
7. Hacksaw.
8. Brace.
9. Shovel.
10. Non-stretch cord.
11. Level.
12. Trait – special marking tool, looks like a compass.
13. “Baba” is a birch block with two brackets on the sides, used as a spacer.
14. A chainsaw is not necessary, but it will significantly ease the work and time costs.

Carpenters use specific expressions in construction - professional language. Basic carpenter terminology:

1. A log house is a building made of logs, without floors and a roof, the basic part of the house, its height depends on the number of crowns.
2. The crown is a part in a log house, consisting of logs that form a square or rectangle. At the corners they are connected by “locks”. The crown is divided into 3 types: window sill, window, over-window. From the name it is clear where they are located.
3. The frame crown is the first crown of the log house. Protects the bottom trim from rotting.
4. The lower trim is the second crown in the log house, which is the main one. Logs are installed in it.
5. Logs are load-bearing for the floor. They strengthen the lower harness.
6. The trailing crown is the first crown above the window.
7. The top trim is a structure that serves as the basis for the roof. It consists of rafters and upper supports.
8. The butt is the part of the trunk in a log house that is located at the bottom of the tree. The part opposite to it is called the vertex.

The classic form is a log house made of round timber. This is lining logs at height. A log house made of round timber requires great professionalism; it is easier to process a log house on the ground, and use scaffolding to install it in the right place. The scaffolding needs to be made strong and comfortable. Working with a log house is dangerous, so do not neglect safety rules. In this instruction we will use the cutting method followed by re-arranging. It is much safer and more convenient, no need to work at height. Its only drawback is the increase in construction time. The structure of the log house will be carried out in stages and parts: base, middle and upper part.

You need to understand that there are no ideal logs. They change their diameter along the entire length of the trunk. Therefore, it is necessary to change the tops and butts. When making an edging, one crown will fit better against the other. The edge of the deck is trimmed on one side and the other - the result is a plane.

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“Dovetail” and “claw” – the basic part of the lock

One of the first actions to take is logging.

Depending on the size, width, length and height, you will need a different number of logs.

Dovetail connection diagram.

They mainly use pine, spruce and other conifers. Birch should never be used; it will rot quickly and is very difficult to process. After selecting the forest, you need to get rid of the bark and dry the forest.

It is necessary to select the place where construction will take place, taking into account that it should be sufficient for all parts of the building. It is necessary to mark using a non-stretch cord.

Then you need to make a non-permanent foundation - linings. Their dimensions are 1 m long and 1/3 m in diameter. We install them near the corners of the building, which will ensure the most uniform load on them. The linings must be installed level, with an error of up to 5 cm.

The next stage is making the edging. To do this, you need to choose where the future edging will be. This side should be placed up and the log should be secured with staples. Using a plumb line, we draw vertical lines, which will become the edges of the edging. Using awls, you need to pull the cord from one edge of the log to the other. This way the edge of the edging will be drawn. After that, you need to secure the log with the future edging up and, having made cuts, begin to cut the log, getting an edging. Then you need to mark the edge with opposite side logs and similarly make another edging. An alternative to cuts can be cuts made with a chainsaw.

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The process of making a log house

We take a log for the frame crown and make an edging, approximately 10 cm wide. The edging will lie on the linings. Next, we will cut down “blocks” 60-75% of the log thickness, the length of which will be constantly the same and will not exceed the maximum diameter of the log. We put a point at the end of the block and from it we draw a “paw” line with an extension into the house. After that, we place the “blocks” on the “legs” of the transverse log purlins, secure the structure with brackets and check whether the size of the round timber frame has not been violated.

Connection diagram “paw with socket”.

And only after re-checking do we finally secure it with staples. Then we transfer the connecting lines to the upper log from the lower one. This must be done while maintaining parallelism. During runs, you need to cut out the middle block using the same principle of transferring lines.

Next in line is the “bottom harness”. “Doodles” are made on logs of this binding. It is necessary to make sure that the upper purlins are flat; using a lining and a level, we ensure that they are horizontal. The error should not exceed 3 cm.

The next step will be cutting out the groove. To do this, we make notches across the groove, crosswise, using an ax. We make a notch along the groove with an ax, resulting in a groove. We cut out the “paws” according to the pattern described above and lay the log on the base. We check the tightness of the fit, if necessary, remove and finish. When the log house is the right size, spread the tow evenly on the bottom log and mount the log on top. We make and install 3 transverse logs into the lower logs and make logs. We install the logs using a “woman”.

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Installation of the 1st window sill

Let's start by marking the doorway. Using a dowel, we secure the logs, having previously applied markings. Using a chisel, select a pocket for the dowel, going 1 cm deeper than the dowel itself. It is necessary to check the verticality of the corners using plumb lines. The finishing sill log should be placed on 2 dowels and no tow should be placed under it. When translating, it is necessary to maintain the equivalence of the diagonals.

We carry out installation of window crowns. The height of the window openings is from 110 to 130 cm. We fasten the “short ones” of the window crowns with dowels. We do the work by analogy. In order not to get confused when shifting, you need to draw a line at the corner of the log house.

We make the “cap” of the log house. We remove the upper crown crown and begin to make the upper trim. The design includes two purlins and rafters. At the end of the runs we make blockheads, in the middle we need to make cheeks instead of blockheads. Using shims and staples, you need to ensure that the top of these purlins is horizontal. Transverse purlins should be installed, those in the middle should be equipped with a “dovetail”, others with a “claw”.

We make rafters. We take logs with a thickness of at least 15 cm and cut off 2 edges on each (they must be parallel), except for one. We cut the raw rafter into the deck using this fastener, as a result its top should be horizontal. We cut the rafters into the upper purlin, but not more than 25% of the diameter of the log. You should hook the cord along the edges of the last rafters and align all the others. Using a chisel, make pockets for the rafter legs.

Manufacturing of rafters. Special precision is needed here; the strength of the roof depends on the rafters. The length of the rafters also depends on the angle of the roof. The presence of a large number of knots in the rafters is not allowed. We cut out a tenon at the base of the rafters and stack them in pairs. We adjust the spikes and pockets. We begin relaying the rafters, while we must remember about the padding.