Putty for log seams. Methods for eliminating gaps between the crowns of a log house. How to insulate walls with tape tow and linen rope
Oddly enough, the time-tested methods of sealing joints in wooden houses remain optimal in our time. Our ancestors did not face the question of how to close the cracks in a log house, because the correct answer grew in most forests and copses. This answer is called "natural moss". It perfectly protects joints and seams not only from wind penetration, but also from dampness. Another thing is that finding a sufficient amount of natural moss is not easy, and the sealing itself will be labor-intensive. When using natural natural materials to seal the gaps between the beams and logs, very high density styling
No matter what sealing compound you choose, it will fly out of the new cracks within a month or two. It turns out that synthetic sealing is only possible if the house is uninhabited - you won’t endure drafts and frost inside it for a whole year, right? Sealing seams between logs is categorically incompatible with polyurethane foam and silicone and polyurethane sealants. They are destroyed under the influence sun rays and do not prevent wood from rotting.
Tow for insulating joints in wood can be purchased at a hardware store. The purchase must be made in large quantities at once, so even a narrow gap can “absorb” a large amount of tow. Natural moss does not need additional means of reinforcement - tow can be soaked in a liquid, flowing solution of cement or gypsum. Natural hemp provides high-quality protection for the joints between logs, and it looks attractive in appearance.
Combining them with natural moss, hemp and tow is also prohibited; such a “hybrid” compound has unacceptably low strength. Synthetic sealant for joints and cracks between logs should be elastic, similar in consistency to glass putty. It is better to select the right brand according to the type of wood and in accordance with the recommendations of the company that built your house. If builders recommend natural caulking, alas, you will have to come to terms with this and engage in the labor-intensive procedure of protecting your home.
Sealant for wooden houses, sealing seams, sealing cracks and crevices. As a result, sealing seams and eliminating cracks in wooden structures increases between logs, beams and boards. In those years, I did not find him, I served under his leadership later, but I heard all sorts of things. Light House - wood sealant Perma-Chink, Energy-Seal Sealant for wooden house As a result, the gaps between logs, beams and boards increase, seal seams and eliminate cracks in wooden structures in Designed to seal cracks in logs and completely protect these sealing of log houses - Houses photo, log house photo, house pictures
Sealant for closing seams and cracks Remmers Acryl 100 in a wooden house between logs or beams; Sealing cracks up to 5 cm wide Then everyone knows that it is in the house. The following are not allowed on the products: rot, wormholes, cracks, chips, etc. and in the gables, gaps may form, which will be very difficult to close because it allows the logs to fit together as tightly as possible. Articles. Wooden house company.
Naturally, these cracks can be repaired with something. The process of shrinking a wooden house and constantly closing the gaps between the logs increases every man-hour for us. German quality a sealant gun in tubes will allow you to quickly, efficiently and beautifully seal cracks and crevices between the logs of a log house. Druckluft suture gun - Dichtstoffpistole
IN Lately on the pages of the Internet you can increasingly find questions, disputes, debates and discussions on the topic of what is better to use for sealing roof joints and cracks, as well as for sealing cracks in logs and beams: tow, which has long been known to everyone, or modern ones, specially designed for such What are the purposes of wood sealants? From the information that is now present on various forums, in articles and comments, one may get the opinion that tow and sealant are interchangeable materials, and the use of one completely eliminates the need to use the other. Actually this is not true.
1. As the tree shrinks, the gaps between the logs can either narrow or widen. Once installed, the insulation is not enough, and they have to be laid again. In the first year after construction, it is recommended to repeat the procedure for adding tow THREE times to prevent blowing and freezing of the seams. Applying Eurotex wood joint sealant will eliminate the need for re-caulking. This is a highly elastic composition (elongation coefficient - 200%), it withstands the natural shifts of the log house without cracking or peeling, “moves” with the wood, expanding and contracting without losing the tightness of the seam.
Imagine that you are assembling a log house. Structurally ideal logs do not exist, so one way or another there will be a need for some kind of connecting, sealing material that will be laid between the logs. But such sealants, popular today, will be indispensable when processing an already assembled device to provide additional thermal insulation, protection against moisture and the development of biological damage.
When building a house from a log or timber, one important feature of wood must be taken into account: it is a “living” material that has natural unevenness, cracks and shrinks. There are always structural gaps between the logs - seams that need to be sealed so that freezing and blowing do not occur through them. In addition, the joints of logs are the most favorable place for the development of mold and mildew.
In our article today, we wanted to touch on the topic of wooden log houses, or more precisely, methods for eliminating cracks in wood that sooner or later appear due to climatic conditions. In addition, precious heat escapes from the house through cracks, and against the backdrop of constantly rising prices for coolants, this is now very important. Therefore, we will consider heat-insulating wood and methods of sealing the walls of a log house. Wood is a living material, so wooden structures can change their linear size during operation, and gaps and cracks may appear in the logs (photo 1). Traditionally, residential wooden houses and log cabins are insulated by caulking the seams with moss or tow. Currently, the modern construction industry is proposing to solve the problem of sealing the seams of wooden log houses using new technologies. Instead of the usual caulking, construction organizations offer homeowners a wide range of sealants that are designed specifically for wood. At the same time, simplicity and ease of use are guaranteed.
The cotton wool is treated with an anti-putrefactive compound and packed into pressed briquettes. Unlike tow, synthetic wool cannot be pulled out of the joints of a log house by sparrows and tits. The cotton wool should tightly fill the gap between the logs (photo 5)
The use of moss or tow requires certain professionalism and skills if the log house is made of untreated logs. In these cases, the quality of caulking can be checked using an awl: it should go into a layer of tow or moss with the same effort as in wooden log(photo 3). In addition, you need to caulk all the walls of the log house at the same time, moving along the perimeter. Caulking a separate section of the wall can lead to distortion of the entire frame. Caulking of a wooden log house must be carried out 2 times: after installation of the log house and after its shrinkage, which will take place in one to two years.
Jute ropes are very reliable. They are made from an annual plant that grows in the tropics - jute. The ropes are difficult to stretch, strong, reliable, have an excellent appearance and are able to beautifully close even very ugly seams between logs. There are several types of jute ropes sold in the market. The thickness can be 6-110 millimeters. For finishing a wooden house, a rope with a thickness of 10 to 22 millimeters is ideal. In fact, a lot depends on the thickness of the logs in the log house itself. The thicker the log, the larger the rope should be so that it does not get lost against the background of the log house and provides the necessary decorative effect. It is worth noting that jute rope can be used both for processing external walls and internal walls. The rope is secured using special nails. The process of laying the rope itself is labor-intensive and requires great care. The rope should lie evenly in the space between the logs.
When wooden frame is already completely ready, it’s time to think about high-quality processing. I would like the seams between the logs, which are not always quite attractive and presentable, to be hidden, if not completely, then at least partially. But at the same time, I wouldn’t want to cover beautiful logs with panels, finishing slabs and others similar materials. After all, the tree itself looks quite beautiful!
In times past, there was moss sticking out from under the logs. It was used as the main insulation, but no one tried to hide it - it was unreasonably expensive and required considerable effort. As a result, the houses were left with exposed moss. Today, many materials are used to insulate a log house. Some of them are completely safe, while others experienced builders began to refuse. Some people prefer plaster, others choose brick, but all this does not allow the log seams to be properly processed. But don't be upset! We are pleased to present to your attention jute rope.
Any wooden structure (for example, a cottage or a bathhouse) definitely needs reliable sealing of seams, cracks and inter-crown gaps between the timber and the logs. Some people seal them with caulk the old-fashioned way, but many choose sealant for log houses, which is used during the construction period, as well as after the structure has completely settled.
1. The material must be plastic - this is the most important requirement for it. When the sealant dries, it becomes elastic and durable (when broken, it can elongate up to 300%). If the frame shrinks, the seam repeats all its movements.
2. Seam sealant is harmless to health. Manufacturers guarantee its safety and non-toxicity.
3. Durability. Its service life reaches 20-25 years. But there are brands that last much longer. For example, “Terma Chink” from Russian manufacturer"Oliva" reliably protects for 30 years.
4. Sealants protect the log house and its joints from mold, rot, and harmful environmental influences for a long time.
5. This material is completely UV resistant.
6. The sealant has excellent thermal insulation and vapor permeability properties. That is, by keeping the house warm, it gives free access fresh air, moisture vapor, the log house “breathes.”
7. Does not change its parameters at temperatures from -50 to +70 degrees Celsius. This means that it can be used in different climatic zones. It will also serve excellently if a bathhouse requires repairs, in the steam room of which high temperatures almost constantly “live.”
8. Working with it does not require special skills, and is much faster than caulking.
9. Old seams will not need to be removed if any damage is discovered. It will be enough to apply a new layer over the surface with flaws.
10. Seams sealed with modern sealants are aesthetically pleasing. You can buy material of any color (or paint it after drying acrylic paint), precisely selecting the tone of the wood from which the frame is made.
How to work with sealant?
First, the surface must be carefully prepared by removing dust and sanding wood fibers. Then the seams are insulated with a special tape placed between the joints. She is able to increase her size almost 5 times. In contact with air, the tape swells and expands, filling the gaps and all the cracks of the log house. The sealant does not stick to it, but it has high adhesion to the wood, being fixed to it at 2 points. And, thanks to its elasticity, it will then shrink and stretch, simultaneously with the seasonal movement of the tree, without losing its integrity.
Sealing the seams of the bathhouse frame with sealant is done with a construction gun or a spray nozzle. If the bathhouse requires perfect work, construction tape or masking tape. This is done to protect the surfaces from excess sealant. The result is beautiful, even seams and unstained lumber.
The advantage of this method is the speed of operation. Processing a log frame takes only a few hours. Numerous reviews from builders speak of the excellent properties of sealants, their durability, and ease of use.
Sealants are produced in buckets, briquettes, tapes, tubes different weights. For long seams it is more convenient to buy tape. The price of foreign-made materials is many times more expensive than that of domestic analogues. You can compare their cost (for convenience, taken per 1 kilogram) using the table:
The homeland of these “helpers” for sealing seams is the USA. Later, their production was established by European countries and Russia. Each company uses identical raw materials - an acrylic base. It is produced by several large chemical plants. Russian sealants are famous for their decent quality, so it is not necessary to choose the material that has the highest cost. It is only important not to buy a fake, the production technology of which has been violated.
Sealant for log houses: properties, application technology, prices
Features of working with wood sealants. Product cost different brands for 1 kg: Perma-Chink, Weatherall, Remmers, Neomid, VGT, etc.
Sealants for sealing joints in a wooden house
In houses made of logs and timber with natural moisture, cracks appear very often, this distinguishing feature material. During drying, the outer layers lose moisture much faster than the inner ones, which is why they also shrink much more strongly, and cracks are the result of excessive tension in the outer layers. In the article about how to repair cracks in log logs, we talked about in various ways sealing cracks in logs or beams, including using sealants. In this article we will talk about the most popular wood sealants, their prices and reviews from those who have used them to seal cracks in a log house.
Popular sealants for timber and logs
Here is a list of sealants that are most popular among owners of log and timber log houses:
- Perma-Chink.
- Remmers ACRYL100.
- Sazilast STIZ-A, V.
- Mapei Silwood.
- PENOSIL.
- A mixture of PVA and sawdust.
Differences between wood sealants
The main two parameters that distinguish all the sealants described above are elasticity and price. American sealant Perma-Chink– the absolute leader in elasticity, but also the most expensive. Even the cheapest ones Penosil And Silwood have sufficient elasticity to last 3–7 years without problems. After all, elasticity is necessary so that the sealant can expand and contract along with the crack, which becomes smaller during summer shrinkage, and expands in autumn and winter, because the wood absorbs moisture from the atmosphere.
Insufficient elasticity, less than that of the sealants described above, leads to the material cracking in winter. Cheap Russian and European wood sealants often behave this way, as well as materials intended for interior work. Such sealants are not designed for large temperature changes, so they do not tolerate frost well.
Which sealant is better to choose?
When starting to seal cracks, you need to choose the sealant that best suits your conditions. If you have to repair cracks in large area, then it makes sense to choose inexpensive Silwood sealants from Mapei or Penosil. If you are going to repair utility room, garage, barn or any other structure made of timber or logs that does not require careful selection of color, then optimal choice– a mixture of sawdust and PVA. You can get sawdust for free or very cheap at the nearest carpentry shop or sawmill. If you heat the stove with wood, you can cut the sawdust yourself.
Once you have decided on the brand of sealant, choose between purchasing a large capacity (15–19 liters), a medium capacity (1–5 liters) or a small capacity (up to 1 liter). Purchasing sealant in large volume containers will save up to 20% compared to material in small containers. However, purchasing even one large container is justified only if you can use up at least 95% of the sealant. It is known from experience that a 15–20 liter container of sealant is enough to seal 50–150 meters of cracks 2 cm wide, if a sealant made of tow, foamed cellophane, isolon or polyethylene is placed under the sealant.
No less important is the choice the right color sealant. After all, what less color sealant differs from the color of the log house, the more beautiful the repaired cracks will look. Moreover, all manufacturers provide at least 6 various colors sealants suitable for different types of wood. If, after repairing cracks, you will cover the frame with paint, you can use sealant of any color.
Prices for seam sealants
Below we have provided approximate cost materials various manufacturers in tubes and containers of 19–20 liters. This will help you roughly estimate the cost of the material needed to seal the cracks. However, due to inflation and the unpredictable exchange rate of the ruble, we cannot guarantee that prices in your region will not differ significantly from those indicated here.
cost of a tube 300 grams
the cost of a can is 19-20 liters
Neomid Warm house Mineral Professional.
Sazilast STIZ-A, V.
A mixture of PVA and sawdust.
In various construction forums there are directly opposite assessments of the same material. The main dissatisfaction is the very high cost of sealants, especially if they fill a deep crack, neglecting caulk or the use of various polymer seals. A large number of negative reviews associated with the use of fake or counterfeit sealants. Often this sealant cracks and falls out during the first winter.
An objective comparison of sealants by those who have used various materials it comes down to the fact that the expensive American Perma-Chink has no advantages even in comparison with the inexpensive Penosil. Both sealants effectively seal cracks; if the technology is followed, the patch will last for at least 5 years. A mixture of PVA and sawdust does not inspire confidence among those who have never worked with these materials before. If a person happens to glue wood using PVA, then he often prefers using this product to others. Moreover, the use of sawdust, the color of which matches the timber, allows you to create a patch that is not noticeable at all from afar.
Sealant for seams and cracks in wooden house- which is better?
How to choose a sealant for seams and cracks in a wooden house? Review of manufacturers and prices for sealants for wooden houses
Choosing a sealant for a log: current varieties and features of their use
An important stage in the construction of wooden houses is thermal insulation and sealing of the roof gap. And if tow was traditionally used for these purposes, today a fundamentally new product has appeared on the market - sealant for logs.
In this article we will look at what is preferable to use - the usual tow or special compositions. In addition, we will talk about the composition of sealants and how to use them.
Applying and smoothing acrylic composition
But, before we begin to tell the substantiated characteristics of these products, we will find out whether it is necessary to seal the inter-crown gaps and what are the reasons for using special seals.
Reasons for using inter-crown seals
Scheme for sealing gaps and cracks
Technological gaps between the crowns of a log house are a normal phenomenon that cannot be avoided when carrying out construction work. The presence of cracks, on the one hand, is explained by the imperfectly smooth surface of the logs, and on the other hand, by the deformation of lumber during the process of drying and shrinkage.
Comparison of energy efficiency of conventional log walls and thermally insulated walls
What are the reasons for the need to carry out this work?
- Firstly, the presence of uninsulated gaps provokes significant heat loss, which is especially noticeable in heating season when there is a draft from the walls.
- Secondly, inter-crown gaps are an optimal habitat for various microorganisms, including fungus and insects. The situation is aggravated by the fact that in the event of temperature changes, moisture condenses in the cracks, which provokes the intensive spread of mold infections and rotting.
- Thirdly, the presence of unsealed gaps makes the wall of the house less stable, which can lead to subsequent deformations during subsequent use.
So, we are convinced that there are reasons for timely filling of technological gaps. It remains to determine the current sealing methods and materials that can be used for these purposes.
Seals and sealants
Jute tape in the inter-crown gap
The range of products that can be used to seal roof gaps are divided into two main categories:
- Sealants, which include jute tape, tow and similar materials of plant and synthetic origin, are placed between logs during construction work and/or plugged into cracks during caulking of finished walls.
The photo shows synthetic sealants for sealing seams
The use of seals is a traditional practice that allows one to achieve good heat and sound insulation properties for walls treated in this way. But the use of such means has a number of disadvantages.
For example, jute tape cakes over time and loses its original thermal insulation properties. In addition, caulking cracks with tow is a labor-intensive and time-consuming process.
- Sealant for sealing seams between logs is a wide range of compositions that are distinguished by the set of components used in production, consistency, degree of elasticity after drying, resistance to factors external environment, resistance to biological factors and, of course, price.
Regardless of which sealant you decide to use, this product will have many advantages over traditional sealants used in caulking. Among the advantages, we note the simplicity and short time of application with your own hands, the elasticity of the composition and, as a result, greater durability, attractive appearance walls due to the low visibility of properly selected sealant.
So, we have become familiar with the main characteristics of the products that can be used to seal inter-crown seams. Let's take a closer look at what modifications the range of sealants offers on the market.
Types of sealants and their distinctive properties
Standard packaging of acrylic interventional sealants
Currently, there is a wide range of sealants on sale, prepared on various bases and, as a result, possessing a number of distinctive qualities.
Only the right choice suitable composition will allow you to achieve the desired result when sealing technological gaps. If the product is chosen incorrectly, the service life of the seal may be short and the gap sealing will soon have to be repeated.
So, what products are on sale and which of them can be used for finishing wooden construction projects?
First of all, all sealants are divided into two main categories:
- One-component products are sold in the form of ready-to-use gel-like materials sealed in tubes. The use of a ready-made product is characterized additional convenience and ease of use.
- Two-component products go on sale in the form of a main component and a hardener. These compositions are prepared immediately before application, that is, the components are mixed in the required proportions and then used for their intended purpose.
Important: Belonging to one of the previously listed categories does not indicate high or, conversely, low quality of the purchased product. This simply indicates a different composition and different methods pre-operational preparation.
On this moment One-component compositions are most widespread. However, this is not surprising, because it is much easier to insert the tube into a mounting gun and get to work than to mix the base and hardener and only then begin to complete the task.
Sealants can be selected by color
In accordance with the type of base used, the products on sale are divided into the following categories:
- Acrylic sealant for sealing the seams of rounded logs has been used for many years and has earned the recognition of many experts.
Among the advantages of acrylic compositions, we note their low cost and high degree of adhesion to porous materials. The applied and dried product can be processed using sandpaper, and then covered with one or another paint and varnish material.
However, the compositions on acrylic base have many disadvantages, including a low degree of hydrophobicity and, as a consequence, poor resistance to precipitation. Moreover, acrylic sealant,as a result long-term operation, begins to crumble. Therefore, the use of such compositions is allowed only in the interior.
- Polyurethane sealant is a universal product, equally suitable for both external and external interior decoration log structures. The product is characterized by increased hydrophobicity and resistance to precipitation. The product is distinguished by adhesion sufficient for application to both wood and jute tape.
Polyurethane after drying for a long time retains elasticity and does not crack. Like its acrylic counterpart, this sealant can be painted well with most types of paints and varnishes.
- Bitumen mastic is a liquid solution that is applied to the surface of lumber to ensure their waterproofing.
Unfortunately, due to the presence of bitumen, the product is painted black, and therefore cannot be used to putty joints. On the other side, bitumen mastic used in the construction of wooden houses. Covered with mastic strip foundation to prevent direct contact between wood and concrete.
- Silicone sealant is perhaps the most popular and sought-after solution for sealing gaps up to 3 mm wide. The product is highly elastic even after complete drying, so this gel can be used to treat the walls of a house during the shrinkage process.
Important: Silicone gel is difficult to paint with traditional paints and varnishes. Therefore, when choosing products for applying the bottom to the surface of wood, we give preference to transparent modifications.
Silicone-based sealants, in turn, are divided into two categories: neutral and acetic (acidic).
It is not difficult to distinguish one product from another; the neutral type of sealant does not have a distinct odor, while the vinegar analogue smells strongly of vinegar. The neutral modification is mainly used for working with metal, while it is better to apply acetic compounds to wood, which are characterized by better adhesion to the porous structure.
Features of application
Application warm seam Eurotex
The instructions for using sealants are not particularly complicated.
- We grind the surface to be treated. We do this using angular grinder angle grinder with petal disk. We pass the disk along the logs, removing up to 3 mm of the surface in one pass.
- Using a wire nozzle according to the shape of the brush, we finally level the surface making it smooth.
- Use a vacuum cleaner to remove all dust from the recesses.
- Using a non-lint rag soaked in thinner, wipe the joints between the logs to remove any remaining sawdust and dirt.
Tube with sealant in a mounting gun
- We install the tube with sealant in a special mounting gun and press it with a piston.
- By pressing the trigger, we press the piston, squeezing out an even strip of gel.
- Having passed along the entire length of the log, pull the piston of the gun back 1 cm so that the sealant does not flow out of the tube.
- We return to the starting position and coat the applied gel so that it lies in the recess in an even layer.
Now you know what a sealant is for log house and how to use it for its intended purpose.
Sealant for logs: video instructions for sealing seams in the house with your own hands, photo and price
Sealant for logs: video instructions for sealing seams in the house with your own hands, photo and price
Sealant for sealing joints in a house made of rounded logs
Over time, caulk made from natural materials becomes unusable. Moss and tow have long been abandoned in favor of jute. It is not hygroscopic and is not of interest to rodents and birds. However, it also has to be updated from time to time.
Recently, more effective materials have appeared on the market - sealants for rounded logs. They are not only a reliable barrier to drafts and cold, but also perform decorative functions.
Pros and cons of sealing a log house
Modern industry has created a lot of options for plastic raw materials for reliable closure of crown joints. Acrylic, silicone, containing all kinds of additives and colors, they make the caulk flawless. Their advantages are as follows:
- Process speed. If you caulk the seams with jute or tow, you can get bogged down in the process for several weeks; this directly depends on the design of the log house: you need to act carefully so as not to move the crowns themselves with your own efforts. Often, venerable carpenters straighten lopsided logs in this way.
When dealing with sealant, the job can be completed in a day, weather permitting of course. It should be dry and cool. Using the gun is not difficult; even an amateur can handle the job.
- Plasticity of composition. This is an excellent quality for a structure subject to constant shrinkage. You don’t have to worry about the seam falling out of the joint or temperature changes causing it to crack. An important condition: wood sealant for exterior use must be carefully selected, because each type has its own purpose and, if used incorrectly, you can get a worse result.
- Durability. Seam service life in some cases reaches 20 years, but even if the limit occurs after 10 years, this is not much longer than caulk. Jute fiber will have to be replaced after five years of use, and tow even earlier. You need to plug cracks and seams as defects appear in the log house, and you cannot delay this. Therefore, regular maintenance and partial repairs, even of a sealed seam, will help leave the log house in its original condition for a long time.
- Wood protection. The use of silicone or acrylic sealants will make the crown grooves practically inaccessible to moisture, and dampness is the main enemy of wood. As a result, mold and mildew will not appear on the seams, the logs will not begin to rot, and the service life of the house itself will increase.
In addition, the sealant for wooden seams is made in compliance with all sanitary standards and rules and is safe for humans. Some of them, for example, silicone ones, have a sharp vinegar smell during operation, which is eliminated over time.
There is no remedy without drawbacks. Sealants also have them. For example:
- Some species do not tolerate temperature changes. For example, acrylic wood sealant is used only for internal caulking, in rooms where the temperature is more or less stable. In the cold it cracks and discolors.
- Silicone sealants are difficult to remove from surfaces because the material has good adhesion. This means that you should act carefully when working and immediately remove sloppy mistakes.
- Speaking about the absolute safety of the sealant, it is important to remember that only branded options have this quality. An unknown manufacturer, as a rule, sins of producing compounds not according to the standard.
For each type of work, external or internal, you should select the appropriate type of paste, otherwise there will be no benefit from plastic caulking at home. Their prices vary. Having found out the approximate price of one cylinder, you can decide the question: caulk or sealant for a house made of rounded logs? What will be more profitable?
Types of compositions and their application
Several types are popular in the caulking process:
Acrylic. It is distinguished by a plastic, balanced consistency, uniform color, and ease of application. With it, the log house also gains aesthetic appeal.
They operate using a tube with a special pistol. The tip of the bottle is cut off at the desired angle, it will cover the desired width of the seam, and the composition is applied under pressure into the inter-crown space. Without waiting for complete drying, smooth out the mass with a spatula at a right angle to the log, immediately wiping off any streaks.
Silicone. This sealant is suitable for crown joints of a wooden house on the external walls of a log house, provided that the crowns above the second row are sealed.
This is due to the fact that mold may appear on the seams due to the constant presence of dampness, and the wood will begin to rot around the sealant. They apply it in the manner described above, using gloves and even a respirator for personal protection, because it has a strong odor.
Bitumen sealants. They cope well with moisture, but at the same time they clog the natural capillaries of the wood, causing it to stop breathing. You can use bitumen-based sealant only in really damp places and in no case on the ends of logs.
If, after all, sealing is carried out, then in the future the log will be covered with longitudinal cracks. Natural moisture needs a way out, and wood will solve this problem in its own way.
Polyurethane. Not to be confused with polyurethane foam! It cannot be used to seal wood at all, since the porous surface will cause water to stagnate inside, which will inevitably lead first to the destruction of the foam, and then to the destruction of a house made of rounded logs with a sealant of this type.
The polyurethane composition is absolutely moisture resistant, not allowing frost or drafts to pass through. It has no competitors in terms of efficiency, which is why it has such a price.
Sealants for crown joints in a wooden house: what better sealant or caulk
Sealant for sealing joints in a house made of rounded logs
The final stage of work on the construction of a log house should be caulking. It is needed to insulate seams and prevent moisture from penetrating between structural elements. Wood is a natural biological material and needs special protection from external damage. natural factors, as well as damage from insect pests, fungi and bacteria. When caulking a log private house, various insulation materials and seam sealing methods. Familiarization with them will allow you to easily carry out the entire process yourself.
Material selection
Before you start caulking a log house, you should decide on the choice of suitable material. Previously, natural insulation materials such as tow and moss were used for this purpose. They are still relevant among lovers of eco-style. The old materials have been replaced by modern ones - jute and flax wool. When choosing a material, the main thing is that it is not harmful to health and fulfills its functions of insulating the house.
Particular attention should be paid to the choice of material
Qualities inherent in a good material for sealing seams:
- do not promote the growth of bacterial and fungal associations;
- be unattractive to birds and insects;
- have low thermal conductivity;
- do not contain toxic substances;
- have a neutral odor;
- be resistant to temperature changes and high humidity;
- maintain its working properties for many years.
Types of materials
There are several types of insulation designed to work with log houses. The most common of them:
- tow;
- red moss;
- jute;
- flax wool
Let's look at each type in more detail.
This natural material, a product of processing bast crops (flax, hemp). Used for thermal insulation and moisture insulation wooden structures(caulking cracks, laying crowns, stuffing seams). Has a slight antibacterial effect. Due to its structure being not as dense as that of jute tape, it can be used in log houses of any type.
Most often used in combination with tow White moss (sphagnum) grows everywhere and is found in any swamp. Its qualities are inferior to red moss, but since sphagnum is easier to prepare in any quantity, it is usually preferred.
Moss is an excellent material that has the ability to absorb moisture in large quantities, due to its high hygroscopicity. Can allow air to pass through well even when wet. In addition, sphagnum moss has antifungal, antibacterial and disinfectant properties. Capable of creating indoors favorable microclimate , thanks to vapor and gas permeability. Moss is a worthy option for laying seams, since it allows you to smooth out changes in humidity and thereby ensure insulation, as well as the durability of the log structure.
During the work process, moss is often combined with tow due to the difficulties in installation.
Red moss (cuckoo flax) The material is difficult to prepare
- Has a number of useful properties:
- durable;
- provides insulation;
- Prevents mold and rotting.
- durable, elastic;
- less hygroscopic than moss;
light and long.
This material is popular and is increasingly replacing moss over time. It is obtained by processing the stem of the plant of the same name.
More expensive option Advantages of the material:
- environmentally friendly;
- Has a number of useful properties:
- has good heat-saving properties;
- easy and quick to install;
- contains a substance that prevents the material from rotting;
- has a beautiful color.
Its disadvantage is its higher cost, as well as caking and limited use in conventional log cabins.
It is suitable for buildings made of timber and rounded logs.
Advantages of the material:
Previously, flax was used along with moss. Now flax wool is produced on its basis. "Eurolene" is a tape made from woven fibers of this plant. Affordable and - durable material
- durability;
- environmental friendliness;
- slight hygroscopicity;
- healthy microclimate in the house;
- availability, low price;
- good insulation;
softness and elasticity.
Other insulation materials
- In addition to the above insulation materials, others are occasionally used:
- Mineral insulation.
- Wool fiber.
- Batting, synthetic padding, sealant.
Thermal insulating tapes.
This is fraught with the accumulation of excess moisture inside the insulation with further freezing of the seams. And some of them contribute to the release of condensation at the joints of wood and insulation, which can contribute to the destruction of the wooden structure.
Caulking methods
- Caulking a wooden house is carried out using two methods:
- "stretch";
"to the set." With the “stretch” method, strands are twisted from the insulation, which are then wound into a ball for convenience.
These threads are used to make loops that are used to seal seams. Their number depends on the depth of the gap. First, the material is driven into the upper edges, and then into the lower edges. Then the insulation is trimmed with the flattened end of the tool. Corners should be given close attention. Working with them is not very convenient. When sealing the walls, it would be correct to release about 15 cm of material at the corners. Important! If caulking is done in finished house, then the log house can increase its height by 10-15 cm.
Therefore, in order to avoid damage to the pipe, it is freed from putty during the work. Caulking at home must be done correctly, going along the entire perimeter of the log house. You should start from the bottom of the house, then rise sequentially up in a circle. When re-caulking, seams are sealed using the “set” method. This method is good for filling and gaps. For such work, a pre-prepared fiber roller is used. The thickness of the roller should be the same throughout. Large cracks are sealed by folding the cord to form a kind of loop. The insulation is clogged with caulk and a mallet. 
Regardless of whether insulation was carried out during the construction of the log house, the seams are sealed after a year. During this time, the structure shrinks and the logs fall into place. After another year, complete shrinkage occurs, and new cracks form that must be properly sealed. Regardless of the material from which the house is built, caulking is carried out in the same way.
The insulation should be tightly packed between the crowns, and in places with large gaps, insulation should be done with jute and hemp ropes.
- Periodic, correctly executed caulking is designed to solve several problems:
- provide sufficient thermal insulation;
- protect the tree from destruction;
- avoid condensation;
reduce airflow at home.
Periodic caulking at home
The house should be inspected annually for the appearance of cracks, which must be properly sealed immediately. Caulking log buildings is not much different from working with other log buildings. The only thing you should pay attention to is the threat of overfilling the inter-crown space with insulation. The fact is that in log houses the cracks are not as large as in others.
When working with jute, you should pay attention to the joints between the logs, as this is the weakest point. Processing corner locks To avoid rework and unnecessary expenditure of funds, caulking of a log house should be carried out correctly and efficiently, filling the gaps tightly. Sealing of seams must be carried out inside and outside the house.
In case of poor quality work, even the smallest-looking cracks can significantly affect the temperature in the room. It is advisable to carry out insulation of a log house using the “set” method.
The material roller has the necessary rigidity, which increases the efficiency of the method of sealing seams.On another forum, a person I respect tried this thing on his log house. Below is his report:
"Hmm... Report on caulking a log house with sealant
Sorry for the clumsy subject, but it seems this is not the first time someone has asked this question, and I am almost the only one who has tried THIS on my own skin. That is, a log house.
We will need:
- gun for “sausage” (cartridge made of metallized PE film). 300-350 rubles in any market (Sazi’s office has it, but it’s too expensive - about 600 rubles). They are available for small sausages (300 ml each) and for large ones (600 ml). We need it for a big one.
- vilatherm sealing cord (PE foam, like the well-known energy flex, but denser). Available in F10, 15, 20, 30, 40, 60, 80mm. Bought at Sazi's office (on the market the price is 4-5 TIMES higher - this is not a joke!)
- the actual sealant. I'll say a few words. There is a very popular opinion that the one who should be smeared is the one who is STEEZ-A. It is declared as "vapor permeable for the outside." I was talking about Sazilast 11 (aka STIZ B), which is “vapor-impermeable to interior works". In fact, they differ in only 2 parameters:
1. Resistance to vapor permeability (not to be confused with vapor permeability).
A - "no more than 0.25"
B - "not less than 2.0"
At first glance there is a big difference. But... if we remember that according to the technology, vilatherm (POLYETHYLENE, albeit foamed) is placed in the seam, which does not let a damn thing through, then what difference does it make what will be coated on top?
2. "B" is certified for use "inside" (from a hygienic point of view). All other parameters are ABSOLUTELY the same.
These were arguments on the topic of why I smeared “B” and not “A”, as everyone thinks necessary. I’ll also add that “B” was recommended to me by Sazi themselves with the thesis, they can do it both inside and outside. And finally, B is a little more expensive than A.Process.
We push the vilatherm of the appropriate diameter into the target, squeeze out the worm from the gun, and smear it with our finger. It is convenient to have a small rubber spatula to remove excess from your finger. ALL!Drying
At a temperature of +20, after an hour or two it no longer smears, and the next day it gains full strength. At temperatures below +5 it is VERY unpleasant to apply. Fingers get cold and it doesn’t dry out for SEVERAL days. Once dry, the "radical white" color becomes a rather pleasant gray.Result
Overall I'm pleased. Where it was smeared with a very thin layer under the hot sun, there are small cracks in places (apparently due to drying too quickly). In the current frosts it is tanning quite strongly, but I found only 2 cracks 70-80mm longConsumption-and-prices
Very economical. Most of it goes away in the corners, the lion's share of the seams is just decorative grease "for uniformity." I didn’t count it exactly, but on my 8x10 it cost about ten in terms of materials. 60-70 “sausages” for 75-80 rubles, 2 pistols, cord. I applied it myself.Here, somewhere like this. If you forgot something, ask. I’ll answer what I remember.
PS. I bought the sealant and cord from their office on Dmitrovka (see website).To build a log house, you need to take into account many issues related to its construction. One of them, no less significant and important, is how and how to seal the cracks between the logs in order to protect the house from the effects of natural factors. There are many options for caulking the space between logs. Which one you choose will determine your future life in your new home
How to seal cracks between logs - natural materials
The most correct and useful advice you will receive from experienced craftsman or the person who built the house himself.
So, many experienced experts come to the conclusion that sphagnum moss is one of the most effective and reliable materials for sealing cracks.
It is taken from the outskirts of the swamps while still wet and stuffed into the inter-crown joints. This type of moss is very light and pliable.
The quality of caulked walls is determined by a sharp awl, which is driven between the caulked logs. If it fits heavily into the crack, like into wood, then the caulking was done properly.
Another environmentally in a clean way To eliminate cracks, use tow filled with cement or plaster, and dense compaction of clean material without any impurities is also acceptable.
An alternative material for caulking is jute fiber or hemp fiber (hemp), which differs from tow in that the former is made from flax, and the latter is obtained from hemp.
Our great-grandfathers used these very materials. They are still relevant today. What better than tow or moss, it's hard to say. If the caulk is made well, any material is good. But if you want to change the layout with a chainsaw, a problem will arise: tow or hemp can pretty much clog it and dull it.
How to seal cracks between logs - modern materials
In addition to the environmentally friendly materials that nature supplies us with, there are modern synthetic materials offered by domestic and foreign industry. Of course, one can argue about the environment, but reliability is guaranteed by the manufacturer.
Silicone sealant
One such material is silicone sealant. Since wood tends to absorb moisture and evaporate it, this sealing method is questionable, because evaporation under the sealant layer will not occur, which will sooner or later lead to the formation of rot.
Polyurethane sealant
There are many special sealants based on polyurethane. It is not susceptible to temperature changes and is resistant to ultraviolet rays. Putty based on it is quite suitable for sealing the seams of house crowns.
Cannot be used for caulking joints polyurethane sealants, which are sold in cylinders - they are not designed for direct exposure to sunlight!
As you know, a house made of wood “breathes”. The processes of heating and cooling, absorption and evaporation of moisture cause the logs to move slightly. This means that the polyurethane foam will not last long; after a while it will crack and crumble. Therefore, use more elastic materials to seal seams.
How to make caulking - proper laying between logs
Before caulking, consider what material will be underneath the putty. Covering cracks with sealants is impractical and costly, since they can be very deep and number in the dozens.
So, calculate what is more profitable: a filler based on what, industrial or natural.
We have already discussed the natural one, but as for the synthetic one, many experts come to the opinion: use a cord made of foamed polymer, which is sold in different diameters, which is very convenient when fitting to cracks.
So, when the cracks are filled as tightly as possible, we cover them with sealant. To do this, stick tape along the length of the log to avoid contamination with putty. As a spatula, we use a rubber spatula intended for seams. And flashings will help to completely close the joints. They will even improve general style your log house.
