Cinder block addition to a log house. An extension made of blocks to a wooden house. Cinder block house extension. Scheme of attaching the extension to the wall of the house
We are adding a living space measuring 3.50m by 10m. This cinder block extension will be divided into three rooms - an entrance hall, a bathroom and a boiler room. Below are detailed instructions for building this structure with your own hands. What are we doing?
First of all, it is necessary to mark the boundaries of the structure being built. To do this, pegs are dug along its planned perimeter. The foundation for the extension to the house will be built along the boundaries they create. A rope (string) is stretched between the pegs.
Next, a trench is dug the right size. Only then is the formwork constructed. In this case, these are old, but even boards. If these materials are not available, you can rent formwork in St. Petersburg. To prevent unwanted destruction of the foundation in the future, before pouring we add reinforcing materials: metal rods and wire. All rods located at a distance of no more than 40 centimeters are well secured to each other. They can simply be tied with steel wire or secured with electric welding.
After preparing the entire structure, you can pour the foundation for the extension with concrete. The solution is prepared immediately before carrying out work according to standard proportions: for 1 part of cement, take 3 parts of ordinary sand and 5 parts of crushed stone. To avoid the formation of voids, the solution is compacted. After the final pouring, we leave the foundation for 3-4 weeks so that it dries well and becomes durable.
Why cinder block? Cinder block in front of others building materials has one clear advantage - it is lightweight. Its low weight greatly simplifies the work process. Therefore, an extension to a cinder block house can be done independently, without the involvement of construction crews.
Row 1 is the most important. Therefore, waterproofing is done first. It will protect the base of the building from moisture. In this case applied horizontal waterproofing special hydro vapor barrier tapes. Now there are many modern materials on the market. This is coating with mastic, spraying with a special insulating solution, rolled roofing felt, etc. After all the preparatory work, we move on to masonry. The thread or fishing line is pulled according to the level. We throw the solution on the foundation and lay out the first row. The thickness of the mortar is approximately 1-2 cm. All walls are laid out in the same way, taking into account openings for windows and doors.
The most difficult work in building an extension is installing the roof base and laying the roof. The work takes a lot of effort and expense. You can't handle it here alone. Additional labor will be required. After purchasing all necessary materials, floor beams made of timber 15 cm by 15 cm are laid. Next, the rafters are installed. A plank sheathing is mounted on them. Already on this sheathing it spreads roofing from metal tiles.
Important! The roof should be located below the roof of the main building.
It is interesting to note that the demolition of the enopolis would lead to the loss of an important historical and architectural witness to the recent post-war industrial past. In fact, there are few traces left of the period of great economic and industrial recovery that crossed Italy after the Second World War and goes under the name "economic miracle".
However, the recovery operation carried out at the Calcinelli escalation, although carried out with the logic of transformation, takes on an important historical meaning and is to some extent classified as an intervention of "industrial archaeology", namely a historical discipline that undertakes to study, document and improve the material remains of industrialization, be it factories, machines, architecture or anything else associated with the industrial process that no longer exists today.
When developing a project, the following are first planned:
- Areas for future installation of communications.
- The location of the doorway with its coordinates is the best option for arranging in place of the window. If it is necessary to cut out a new opening, you first need to calculate the loads and take into account the characteristics of the impact of load-bearing walls.
Let's consider the main stages of building an extension to a residential building made of natural wood. At the outset, special attention should be paid to creating a solid foundation.
Of course, as always happens in these cases, the final achievement does not fully correspond to what the original idea proposed. Planning an architectural project is, in essence, always a lot: the designer must dictate the driving lines of what should be the final achievement. All the variations made during the work are interesting in this case because they are made in full accordance with the original design philosophy, often rather by expanding their breath. The guiding idea is based on the implementation of an intervention with impact characteristics that does not compromise the original nature of the site and at the same time can enhance the characteristic volume of the various blocks of the Enopolis architectural complex block.
Of course, an extension made from foam concrete blocks does not require a very powerful and durable foundation. However, you need to be guided by several important criteria:
- Its design should be similar to that of the main building.
- Lay down at the same depth.
- It is necessary to calculate heaving and subsidence of the soil - these indicators must be the same.
The uniqueness of the structure of the building was, in fact, the main feature that, obviously, for the reasons stated above, the architect wanted to preserve: all measures conceived within the framework of the restoration project were planned in this perspective, the choice of materials being a key element in the implementation of the project, closely related to the ability to have the greatest possible impact on a predetermined environment. Hence the use of steel and glass, exposed iron pipes and rough lumber that can respect the character of the site.
On non-expanding soil, a rigid foundation is used with reinforcement of dimensions determined after the strength has been calculated in detail. It is advisable that this be done by specialists with extensive experience in this field.
When creating an extension to a wooden house from foam concrete blocks on your own, a gap is left between the buildings for possible deformations. Insulation is used to fill it. This work is quite simple and economical.
The Enopolis complex consists of three large blocks of architectural volumes. The first block, in importance and order of construction, consists of a central building with a sloping roof containing a core of concrete barrels. These barrels affect the building from the lowest level, the basement, to the second floor attic. It is interesting to note the excellent strength and resistance to static loads of the structure, since it is designed to contain liquids that exert high pressure on its walls. To this we can add the ideal condition of the property, given the relatively recent age.
Note that it is possible to create different foundations in accordance with the design of the extension.
Typically the floor level is lower than that of the building by a value in accordance with previously calculated deformations.
Main stages of work
To simplify the procedure for arranging the foundation, it is necessary to have a pre-developed project. By the way, expanded clay blocks are the most popular among builders today.
This is the most original part of the entire complex, which, with its characteristic roof and the presence of barrels, defines the stylistic typology and character of the rest of the building. At the top of this first block, located directly under the roof, there is a large room that, overlooking the barrels, was used to handle all the operations associated with the vinification activity, such as cleaning, fermentation control, etc. on the floor surface of this environment there are several hermetically sealed ventilation holes, directly connected to the inner surface of the trunks: through them all operations necessary for proper vinification are performed.
Once the foundation work is completed, construction of the walls begins. After it has completely hardened, the surface of the base is covered with a waterproofing coating. A special mastic is used for this. Then insulation is carried out and everything is filled with bitumen.
An extension made of foam blocks to a wooden house is quite simple to build. This does not require any special skills - the process is similar to working with cinder blocks.
Even the large rectangular control holes at this level had the same function; they communicate directly with the corridors between the shafts and, by providing complete visibility at all levels downwards, allow direct control of the operations carried out in the corridors above.
The second architectural block of the complex is an open space - a kind of pergola, placed on the front of the first block and spanning its entire length. This space was used for wine retail operations, wine grapes, and generally all pre-fermentation operations in the barrel. This space was added to the first block later.
The top of the base is covered with roofing felt, then the first row of blocks is laid. Lay on a traditional cement-sand mixture. Laying starts from the corner. Installation of subsequent rows is carried out using specialized glue (winter or summer varieties).
The resulting row is moistened from above, and the assembled foam concrete is treated with an adhesive solution from the ends and sides.
Finally, the first two volumes were added to the third, which, due to its impressive and massive shape, immediately becomes obvious to the eye: it is a cubic block on two levels, housing some offices and the caretaker's house. The design guidelines move from the first and second blocks to immediately appear as the "original", where this term means the dominant element of the overall architectural profile.
The features of the concrete barrels, some details of the electrical system, even graphic elements such as the numbering of the barrels, signs of power, characteristics of the wines contained in them, elements that are unlikely to resist a search operation of this type have been maintained or restored, not without effort and attention from the outside. workers involved in this work.
The seam should have a maximum thickness of 3 mm, which will further reduce the likelihood of the formation of cold bridges.
Do-it-yourself extension to the house - photo
1. Extension entrance door.
2-3. Support pillars canopies made of pipes large diameter connected by welding with pipes of smaller diameter.
4. The canopy roof frame is welded from pipes square section.
6. A sheathing of unedged boards was placed under the corrugated board.
7. Paving stones were laid in the yard and under the shed.
When building any extension to a previously built house, it is very important to correctly attach it to the wall.
Scheme for attaching the extension to the wall of the house:
1 - strip foundation;
2 - brickwork;
3 - wall of the house;
4 - cinder block;
5 - steel corner;
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The most good option increasing the area and size of a private house is an extension to the dwelling. Most often it is made from foam blocks. Foam concrete has excellent fire resistance, sound insulation and thermal protection.
If you use porous blocks, you will get a fairly light structure that will not overload the foundation. In addition, this building will be durable and compatible with main buildings built from almost any materials.
Once the foundation is ready, you can proceed to laying the walls. When the foundation structure has completely hardened, the builders should treat with special waterproofing mastic. Next, all this is insulated and bitumen is poured.
A new extension to a wooden house made of foam concrete or expanded clay blocks is not difficult to build, in this case you do not need to have any serious skills - an extension to a house made of foam blocks is built in the same way as a regular building made of cinder blocks or gas blocks.
You need to lay a layer of roofing felt on top of the foundation and lay out the first row of blocks. They are placed on a regular sand-cement type mortar, starting from the corner. Subsequently, the blocks are mounted on glue, which is specially designed for such purposes (either winter or summer type is taken).
Subsequently, the upper plane of the finished row is moistened with water, and the mixed adhesive composition is applied to the side and bottom parts of the foam concrete that is being mounted.
It is worth remembering that the thickness of the seam should not exceed three millimeters, thereby significantly reducing the risk of further possible occurrence so-called cold bridges.
If you decide to use a rigid connection of individual parts of the building, then it is better to do this using a rod with a diameter of ten to fifteen mm (standard length 300 mm) or special metal brackets, which are made from reinforcement.
The rods need to be driven into the wall approximately to the middle. The rest of them between the blocks lies in the seam. If an extension made from foam blocks to your wooden house or from expanded clay blocks or aerated concrete needs to be more rigid, it can be protected from deformation.
For these purposes, reinforcing belts are laid in the corners and every four to five rows in order to increase strength. Using a circular saw, grooves five centimeters deep and three by three cm in size are cut in the stacked blocks, after which the middle is removed.
Pre-welded reinforcement is placed and fixed into the created grooves, and glue is poured. After the walls were laid out, you need to start installing jumpers. They are installed on foam blocks if the opening is no more than 1.75 meters wide.
If you have a size larger than this indicator, then for the purpose of strengthening you need to use sand-lime brick. Modern construction implies that most often jumpers are made in two main ways:
- With in-place formwork - using U-shaped blocks.
- With removable formwork made from special bars - sawn foam blocks are laid out from the inside, reinforcement is installed, and then the blocks are wetted and the concrete is tamped down.
The last stage is the ceiling, or rather, its construction. An extension made of ordinary blocks or expanded clay blocks is covered using hollow or gas concrete slabs. Today there is great demand in construction industry pine timber.
Concerning wooden beams, then they must be planed, dry and impregnated with a special antiseptic substance. The lining is made of OSB, some kind of boards or plywood.
2 Extension to a wooden house and the difficulties of its connection
Many people have the false opinion that a wooden house can only be attached or wooden type kitchen or veranda. If in the future joint cladding is carried out using siding, then the main building can be successfully supplemented with a light and aesthetically beautiful foam concrete structure.
To ensure that the connection is correct from a technical point of view and unnoticeable, the extension must be carried out taking into account such rules.
The condition of the entire house should be analyzed in detail - first the walls are inspected, and bad damaged logs are replaced. This is done to avoid uneven shrinkage and possible separation of parts of the building from each other.
It is also worth finding out the features of the foundation, dimensional characteristics and depth of its laying. To prevent gaps between the walls on the foundation of the house and the created extension, and also to prevent them from deforming each other, they must be joined together.
For this purpose, a special ditch is undermined in the designated place under the dwelling, and strong steel reinforcement is driven into the old foundation, the continuation of which must be mounted into the foundation of the extension.
2.1 Operating technology
Based on the size of the extensions, a trench is dug to a depth of at least half a meter, a sand cushion is made, which must be compacted well. Next, the formwork is installed.
A strong reinforcing belt is laid along the entire perimeter of the created tape, which is filled with concrete mortar and carefully compacted at the same time. This composition hardens for approximately three days, after which the formwork is removed.
Construction is best started after the entire base has completely settled, that is, after one or two years. This will make it possible to minimize possible subsequent subsidence.
About 15 years ago, my brother purchased a small but very comfortable brick house in the Tambov region. Everything in it suited the new owners, except for the hallway, which was too small, and a canopy over the entrance would have been nice.
The beds are wonderful, soft. The best part is that if you die, you'll just wake up next to him, although you'll drop all your stuff where you died and have to get it back. To make one, like the bottom row of your crafting grid with boards, then in the middle with wool and pull out your resulting bed!
To kill sheep, keep hitting the sheep or hitting them with your tool until it falls down. Shaving requires scissors, which can be acquired by melting iron ore into iron ingots and then stack them diagonally in your inventory grid or crafting.
- Wool can be acquired by killing or shaving sheep.
- Now select the scissors and climb onto your sheep.
- Sheep shearing would leave you with a bald but live sheep and 1-3 wool.
Therefore, it was decided to attach a small room to the house from the entrance, which in the future could be used as a hallway, and the entrance to it should be protected from precipitation by a canopy.
Construction of an extension
As usual in such cases, we started with construction from the foundation.
A ribbon was cast onto an ordinary sand cushion and deepened by 50 cm.
Remember, choosing a different material such as stone or brick, or choosing a different type of wood from the main material of your home will add a touch of color and make your home attractive. Make sure your house is bright and have a spare room to protect from mobs. The film is applied to drywall, boards and mineral pads, partitions or additional skins. Application: general buildings and renovations, low energy and passive houses, wooden houses .
The investment already pays off in the first heating season. Due to its speed, which approaches the speed of light, the infrared heater can penetrate common insulating materials such as mineral wool, polystyrene or polyurethane. The only way to retain up to 95% of this heat in a heated room is to reflect the heat through a metallized layer of reflective foil back into the room. In this application, heat loss can be significantly reduced.
Three rows of bricks were laid as a base, then logs were walled into it so that the floor could be laid on them later.
The walls of the extension were built along the plinth from cinder blocks, leaving openings for doors and windows.
The most important thing at this stage was connecting the extension to the wall of the house. To do this, we made several steel corners, which were used to fasten the cinder blocks to the wall using dowels - through two rows, starting from the bottom.
To improve durability it metal coating sandwiched between two thin films and reflects up to 95% of thermal radiation back into the heated room. Packaging: roll 1 x 50 m - 50 m 2. In roof insulation, the film is stretched under the roof with the reflective side towards the room. All connections must be carefully taped together to prevent water vapor from penetrating the insulation. Also in the area of walls, roof windows and chimneys, the foil should be carefully sealed with bottle tape or permanently elastic putty.
We completed the masonry again with bricks, forming the necessary slope for the roof. The brick used here was silicate and placed on edge. To the resulting s inside the shelf was installed with floor beams and an insulated ceiling was installed, covering it with roofing felt on top.
The next stage of construction was the construction of the canopy frame. To do this, four large-diameter steel pipe-racks were placed and concreted along the outer border of the structure at an equal distance from each other, and three more along the wall of the house. Their height was chosen so that the slope of the roof slope was about 20°. This is quite enough for the layers of snow that accumulate in winter to clear from the roof in time. The racks are connected to each other by pipes of smaller diameter.
Attached to the film wood sheets or metal profiles to which drywall or other coverings are attached. An air layer between the foil and the shell must be maintained to maintain maximum heat reflection effect. The film is stretched against the wall, with the reflective side facing the room. Then you proceed in the same way as in roof insulation.
The reason for this method is that the bubble film thus forms at least a minimum layer of air that allows thermal radiation and heat dissipation. However, with this installation method, the maximum effect of heat reflection is not achieved.
The parts of the roof frame are assembled from square pipes and fastened by electric welding not only to each other, but also to the racks. A sheathing of unedged boards is laid on top, on which a corrugated roofing is mounted, closely adjacent to the wall of the house.
The weak point of such buildings is usually the junction of the extension elements with the wall of the house. To prevent water leakage here, a canopy was made above the junction of the canopy and the wall, attached to the wall of the house. Finally, paving stones were laid under and next to the canopy.
We are often told that “civilized” people live in stone houses and only “uncivilized” people live in wooden houses. Besides the fact that in certain wooden houses the best living conditions are offered: why do we believe in various “museums under open air", which present us with beautiful wooden houses and they say that it would be “primitive”?
Stolen stone soot architecture
We laugh at the stereotypical ideas that are firmly rooted in the brains of foreigners about Russia and Russians. And we are completely unaware that we ourselves are in a prison system of similar prejudices about ourselves. For example: what image does our consciousness display when, as an average person in Russia today, we hear the words “Vladimir soot” or “Old soot”? Of course, this is very close to the truth when in our multiple soot we imagine it like this.
The construction was completed, but it remained unclear how the new foundation would behave and whether cracks would appear at the junction of the walls of the extension and the house. Two seasons of operation showed that the fears were not in vain. True, so far the extension has sagged slightly, and the small cracks that appeared were easily repaired with mortar.
In addition, polyurethane foam was applied along the entire perimeter of the extension, along the wall of the house and under the canopy. This eliminated drafts and minor leaks, at least for a while.
Everyone knows that the city of Isborsk was originally built of stone. There are even tiles and chicken houses made of limestone. Please take a look at this photo. This building is interesting in many ways. It immediately becomes apparent that the timber is only a superstructure and the "foundation of the foundation" is made of brick. And indeed, it has long been washed away by soil. It was not built on the ground, but was washed down with sand and clay. This is clear to almost everyone. Because you don't build base floors with bricks because those burning bricks are not moisture resistant.
The result was a warm hallway in winter and a shaded secluded place in summer. In this form, the structure has stood for four years without visible new cracks, so now its external decoration can be completed.
Do-it-yourself extension to the house - photo
1. Extension entrance door.
2-3. The canopy support pillars are made of large diameter pipes welded together with smaller diameter pipes.
That's why a ditch is dug around a building, so The groundwater do not destroy the brick substructure that came from the previous building. The wooden superstructure was created much later to repair damage caused by the flood. It's worth noting that on the roof there are "urns", more specifically vases, which were used as lights in the past. The building's restorers probably used them to give the house its original appearance. Of course, these vases were no longer delivered to their destination.
To complete the impression, there is an architectural monument from Novosibirsk. Apparently this all stone house survived the Flood undamaged. And this picture appears to us throughout the territory. Russian Empire in Das Das, but almost yesterday - and before, maybe there was wood soot before?
4. The canopy roof frame is welded from square pipes.
6. A sheathing of unedged boards was placed under the corrugated board.
7. Paving stones were laid in the yard and under the shed.
When building any extension to a previously built house, it is very important to correctly attach it to the wall.
In fact, it was mostly made of wood, just as Europe was made of wood and there were other areas as well. However, there is an overwhelming majority of evidence of developed stone architecture in the territory. No less than in other countries, and perhaps more.
Unfortunately, they have still survived to this day, but the reason is that in Russia there were much more destructive forces of nature than in Italy itself with its “Eternal City”. And the latest archaeological data provide compelling reasons to claim that this is not just a version. One of the most striking finds is the pedestal of one of the temples.
Scheme for attaching the extension to the wall of the house:
1 - strip foundation;
2 - brickwork;
3 - wall of the house;
4 - cinder block;
5 - steel corner;
The decision to build an extension can be detrimental to the foundation of the main house. Often, due to inexperience, people lay the wrong foundation and after a few months cracks appear between the house and the extension.
The article describes the process of constructing an extension to a house made of foam blocks with all possible errors and tips on how to extend its service life. How to make window and door lintels and what danger awaits when planning an opening wider than 1.75 m.
Finally, you will find some ideas for decorating and using your extension.
Why are many house extensions made from foam blocks?
Most people, when choosing a material for an extension, are increasingly inclined to use foam blocks. They have both pros and cons, but there are more pros. The main advantages of the properties of foam blocks:
- Even a non-professional builder can handle the installation. Thanks to this, you can save on hiring specialists and complete the extension yourself from start to finish;
- Quick installation - glue solution between foam blocks dries much faster than concrete mortar;
- The material is fireproof - does not support combustion and does not burn;
- Minimal settlement is ensured by the porous structure;
- Environmental friendliness - the composition is safe for nature;
- The porosity of the material also ensures low thermal conductivity - masonry made of foam blocks in 2 rows does not need to be insulated;
- The service life of foam block buildings reaches 50 years or more.
- The loose structure of the blocks allows you to cut them with a hacksaw, but it is better to use a circular saw;
- Strength of structures - a plastered wall made of foam blocks is difficult for intruders to break through;
- Due to its lightness, it can be used for construction on all types of soils and save on a powerful foundation;
- Low cost compared to brick.
Minor disadvantages of the material:
- The great influence of atmospheric influences on the material requires the construction of the structure in dry and warm weather and finishing or waterproofing after construction;
- Attractiveness appearance acceptable only for the loft style, which is not yet very widespread in the country.
Step 1: Planning
At this stage, the conditions for construction are studied: soil, material of the house and its age. An extension project is being developed taking into account the number of storeys, the number of windows, the presence of doors and stairs.
The composition of the soil determines the type of future foundation. For example, on clay soil with close location groundwater It is reasonable to make a floating foundation. Otherwise, a few months after construction, the extension will begin to move away from the house. On earthen or rocky soils it is sufficient strip foundation adjusted for shrinkage.
You can build an extension from foam blocks next to wood, brick or clay house. The construction process will differ in the way the mortgages are attached at the joint. Old houses sank deeper into the ground. Therefore, the age of the house determines the size of the expansion joint - the distance by which the extension must sag in order to be equal to the main structure.
The desire to make a two-story extension from foam blocks is best realized partially - it weighs a lot and greatly affects the draft. In this case, the 2nd floor is made of particle boards (chipboards). Economical and safe option, but the final decision depends on an analysis of the construction conditions and the desires of the home owners.
Before construction starts:
- A project for a future extension is being developed;
- An expansion joint is indicated;
- The number of foam blocks, cement, consumables is calculated;
- A place for temporary storage of building materials is being prepared.
Step 2: Selecting the type of foundation
The main types of foundation that are used when constructing an extension from foam blocks:
- Tape- a strip of reinforced concrete along the perimeter of the building, used if a garage or basement is planned in the extension. For construction one-story extension from foam blocks, a shallow foundation 50-70 cm deep is suitable. For a two-story one - buried with a foundation 20-30 cm below the soil freezing depth;
- Columnar- a system of pillars in places of increased load on the ground, suitable for light panoramic extensions for the construction of immovable and non-heaving soils;
- Pile- a type of columnar foundation, but using large metal pillars. Withstands a weight of 2-5 tons, used in construction on soils with high buoyancy;
- Slab — monolithic slab made of concrete as the foundation of the entire house.
In private construction, when constructing additional buildings, strip or slab foundations are often used.
Step 3: Pouring the Foundation
There are 2 options for connecting the foundations of a house and an extension: rigid, when the foundation of a new structure is adjacent to the old one, and using an expansion joint. Rigid is used for the recent construction of a house that has just completed its shrinkage period. Not used if the soil composition is dominated by clay. Making an expansion joint is simple, economical and suitable for inexperienced builders.
A rigid foundation connection is formed between the following types foundations:
- "Tape-tape"— a part of the foundation of the house 1.5-2 m long is excavated, a sand cushion is laid, reinforcement 12-14 mm is driven in at a depth of ¾ of the base, and the frame of the extension is formed;
- "Stove-stove"- used when there are protrusions from the base, which are made during the construction of a house from foam blocks. The base of the slabs under the house should protrude at least 30 cm - in this case, the reinforcement will be exposed and connected to the extension slab.
An expansion joint is more reliable and reduces the risk of destructive effects of precipitation. The extension is being built on separate foundation close to home. In this case, it is better to use a closed contour of the base. Sheets of roofing material are laid between the bases and along the perimeter of the new foundation. When using this option, settlement of the extension will not damage the foundation of the house.
The ideal option is if the foundation of the extension was laid when pouring the foundation of the entire house and temporarily with decking for waterproofing.
Step 4: Building the Walls
The placement of gas silicate blocks starts from the corners of the extension:
- The bottom of the foam blocks is moistened for better adhesion to the connecting solution;
- The first 2-3 rows are additionally protected with a waterproof compound to protect against capillary moisture;
- Before applying the next layer of solution, the top of the foam blocks is moistened;
- The first row is laid using a level; if there are small irregularities, the quality of the masonry will suffer;
- External masonry is usually done using an adhesive solution - the layers between the blocks are less than 2-3 mm, which reduces the total area of the “cold bridges” and reduces the weight of the extension. Internal partitions can be made using concrete mortar to save money;
- The preparation of the mixture is indicated on the glue packages; it is applied to the horizontal base of the block soaked in water, and then to the vertical one;
- The horizontal surface of the masonry is leveled by grinding with a float. Dust is swept away or removed with a construction vacuum cleaner.
Every 4 rows of masonry, reinforcement is laid in the corners to tie the structure together and prevent cracks. Using a circular saw, a square is made with sides 3 cm and a depth of 5 cm. The groove for laying the reinforcement is knocked out with a hammer and chisel. The space around the reinforcement is sealed with an adhesive solution.
Step 5: Lintels for Doors and Windows
The desire to make a panoramic veranda in an extension of foam blocks faces the problem of the maximum possible opening width of 1.75 m. The heavy load exceeds the tensile strength of the foam blocks. For such cases, construction uses sand-lime bricks or cinder blocks.
When calculating the height of the lintels, the thickness of the floor is taken into account - it increases due to the installation of heated floors, leveling, and creating tiers.
Jumpers are made with removable or permanent formwork.
The first option follows the instructions:
- Frames are made from reinforcement required length;
- Support bars are installed on both sides of the opening, and panels are attached to the horizontal formwork from the “magpie”;
- Foam blocks are sawn to length for laying inner surface formwork;
- A frame made of reinforcement is placed inside, with a side with a large number of rods located below. The structure is secured with spacers;
- The blocks are re-moistened for better adhesion, filled with concrete solution from the inside of the opening and compacted;
- The poured surface is leveled to the level of the masonry and smoothed.
When making lintels with permanent formwork, U-shaped blocks are used. This is a more expensive option, but it saves time construction work. To install U-blocks, follow these steps:
- At the top of the opening, in the corners, a block is placed with a support cut out at 25 cm;
- Use a level to remove uneven surfaces. horizontal surfaces supports;
- U-blocks are installed on a regular adhesive solution with the hole facing up;
- The reinforcement frame is laid on top, large quantity the rods are concentrated at the bottom. The structure is rigidly secured with spacers;
- Each layer of foam block masonry above the lintel is compacted using a trowel.
When installing windows, contact your nearest bank in advance to receive “warm credits”. The state compensates part of the cost energy saving windows. Usually, the amount reaches 10% - for this money you can order a white shelter metal-plastic windows wood lamination.
Step 6: Reinforced belt to increase the load-bearing capacity of the walls
A belt made of reinforcement rods provides extensions with protection from wind loads and increases bearing capacity walls It is made during the construction process, directly on the walls due to its heavy weight. To mount the reinforcing belt, do the following:
- Prepared wooden templates Reinforcement bars are laid at the corners of the row. The frames are welded together and leveled;
- The reinforcing belt is lined with longitudinal strips of foam blocks, cut circular saw;
- The template is well wetted and filled with concrete mortar.
Formation technology reinforced belt resembles the installation of jumpers.
Step 7: Roof
The overlap is done a few days after laying the upper reinforced belt, when the strength of the concrete increases. For a foam block extension, slabs of aerated concrete or wooden frame. In the second option, all elements are coated with compounds to protect against fire, pests, and tribes.
Metal tiles are the most popular and attractive roof type, but slate is also used. For construction flat roof For a warm extension, follow the instructions:
- Load-bearing beams are installed along the perimeter;
- A layer of boards is laid on top, roofing material or roofing felt is laid with an overlap of 15 cm;
- The next layer is a dense layer of expanded clay (porous reddish-brown pebbles), check that there is a slight slope in the direction of precipitation flow;
- Pouring the insulating layer with cement mortar;
- Treating the screed with a bitumen primer and laying roofing felt.
If the width of the roof for the extension does not exceed 6 m, timber with a cut of 15*10 cm is used.
To construct a roof made of monolithic concrete slabs, I-beams are used as supports. steel beams. For a roof span of 5 m, beams of 15 cm are purchased. The recommended grade of concrete is 250.
To achieve the correct consistency of concrete, a concrete mixer is used. The composition of the solution is crushed stone with a grain size of 20 mm and cement PC-400. The solution is mixed in the following proportions: 3 parts cement, 4 parts sand, 2 parts water. If necessary, water is gradually added to the concrete mixer.
The boards are attached to the bottom of the beams, and roofing felt is laid on top. Next layer - reinforced mesh profile with a diameter of less than 1 cm and a cell size of 20 * 20 cm. To predict the future repair of a flat roof, the mesh rods in the places of the lining are secured with knitting wire. In some cases, glue may be used. The main thing is that the mesh does not slide off when pouring the screed.
Before the screed is formed, fine-grained crushed stone is poured under the mesh. This creates a gap of 4 cm to separate the mesh and the roofing material.
It is best to completely fill all parts of the roof in one day. It is not advisable to fill the roof in one or more stripes. This will improve the quality of work. After pouring, the concrete is compacted manually or using special equipment. During compaction, you need to carefully monitor the position of the mesh - it should not move, tear or slide off. On final stage, the structure is covered plastic film. This will prevent moisture from evaporating from the surface when elevated temperature and save upper layer from cracks.
Concrete is kept under the film for 3 days. Completely dry concrete floor covered with a layer of insulating materials. The slope towards the sliding of future precipitation is taken into account. At the end, at the final stage, the final screed is done, the installation of the rolled carpet. If desired, monolithic roof additionally insulated before covering with metal tiles.
Step 8: Exterior and interior decoration
At the end of the construction of the extension, it is insulated with foam panels. Insulation is carried out with outside so that the dew point does not end up inside the structure. The foam is laid in one or two rows around the perimeter of the extension using standard technology.
The outside walls are finished with plastering and painting, siding, block-high, decorative stone.
The peculiarity of foam blocks is that during construction they produce enough flat wall and for her interior decoration Plastering and painting is enough. Some ideas for interior decoration of the extension:
Without using external finishing, you need to protect the extension with a waterproofing layer. Otherwise, the foam blocks will become saturated with moisture and begin to gradually deteriorate.
Conclusion
Extension made of foam blocks - economical option rapid expansion of living space. If desired, such a structure can be erected independently in 2-3 weeks. The main thing is to analyze the conditions for construction in advance and correctly draw up a project.
