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How to make a warm floor in a house. Heated water floors: installation diagrams in a private house, technical recommendations and do-it-yourself connections. Calculation of the number of pipes

Anyone can make a heated water floor with their own hands in a private home. home handyman. It will take patience, careful calculations, purchasing materials and missing tools. But in the end you will get a system that allows you to adjust the heating level throughout the entire floor. Let's consider the advantages and disadvantages of the water circuit, rules for selecting materials, installation diagrams, laying and connections.

Advantages and disadvantages of heated floors

Putting aside the complexity of installation, the craftsmen agree that water-heated floors in a private house are one of the most effective systems heating Compared to a radiator system, a water floor in a wooden house can provide significant savings on heating costs due to uniform heating over the entire area. Additional advantages:

1. Low temperature operating mode. This means that the air in the room will not become too dry and stuffy.
2. There is no overheating of the air mass.
3. Water floor heating meets the requirements environmental safety, sanitary and hygienic standards.
4. There is no negative impact on humans, since most of energy is transferred by thermal radiation.
5. The installation of water heated floors in a private house with ceilings of 3 m in height provides savings of up to 30%.
6. The installation system is hidden - this simplifies the process interior decoration premises.
7. Safety. By installing a heated floor from heating in a private house, the user does not risk getting a short circuit in the electrical circuit, as is the case with electric floors- the entire system consists of pipelines; ordinary water is used as a coolant.

Disadvantages of a water floor:

1. Labor intensity of work. Being a system of several layers of material, the structure requires careful preparation and adherence to the installation diagram.
2. Risk of leakage. To find a leaking link, you will have to lift the entire installation.
3. Involuntary weighting design features buildings. Layering materials in layers increases the weight of floors by 10-15%, so when installing a heated floor with your own hands on the 2nd and above floors, you need to calculate the permissible load on the floor.

When installing a floor heating system, it is extremely important to high-quality insulation buildings. In this case, having made a water heated floor with your own hands, you will not have to supplement the heating with convectors.

Design

Before drawing up a project, you need to make sure that nothing will interfere with the implementation of your plans. What you need to pay attention to:

1. Room height. The thickness of the entire heated floor system in a private house from scratch is 10-12 cm.
2. Doorways. When raising the floor level, it is important to maintain the height of the opening. You will have to estimate the price of a custom-made door or the possibility of increasing the height of the doorway.
3. Window placement/orientation. If they face the windy side, north/west, the system power should be increased.
4. Estimate bearing capacity floor beams. The weight of the entire system with concrete screed significantly increases the load.

It is not necessary to give up heating; you can consider the option of a flat (dry) water floor. The system consists of pipelines with a carrier laid on top of a boardwalk. In this case, there is no need to install a screed; it is enough to install it on top of the subfloor wooden frame, the height of which will be equal to the thickness of the insulation. Lay or fill in insulation (mineral wool sheets, expanded clay, sawdust), lay boards on top, and hide coolant pipes in the seams between them. The raised floor can be finished on top.

Scheme development

The scheme is developed taking into account the parameters of the room, technical characteristics equipment and materials. To make the calculation, indicators and data are determined:

• floor area;
• room height;
• material of walls, ceilings;
• type of thermal insulation;
• type of finishing floor covering.

You also need to think about the desired t° mode. For the convenience of calculations, we present a table with indicators of the maximum t° mode for premises for various purposes:

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Room type	t° mode (maximum)
Living space and areas where people spend time standing	21-27⁰
Sedentary rooms, offices	29⁰
Hallways, corridors, halls	30⁰
Bathrooms (swimming pools)	30-33⁰
Premises for active pastime	17-19⁰
Premises where time of stay is limited	37⁰
Edge zones of any premises	35⁰

After specifying the parameters, a diagram is drawn up that contains the following data:

1. Installation points and dimensions of heating radiators, if any.
2. Layout of pipes with dimensions of diameter and length of straight sections.
3. The distance between the elements, t° parameters of the carrier in each pipe and the lengths of all circuits.
4. Heating power data for each separate room. The power of the radiator is calculated taking into account the location and length of the pipeline connected to it.

Also in the diagram you should indicate data on setting up the automation.

To ensure that the installation of a water floor is successful, when drawing up a diagram, listen to the advice of professionals: The diameter of the pipe affects the maximum length of the layout. For 16 mm pipes - up to 100 m, for 20 mm pipes - no more than 120 m. The parameters are needed to ensure optimal pressure inside the heated floor system. If the installation scheme for a heated water floor includes several contours, it is easier to make them the same length with a maximum difference of 15 m. The pipe laying pitch should not be more than 30 cm in the center and 15 cm at the edges. In regions with severe winters, a pitch of 10 cm is recommended. The location pitch affects the pipe flow rate. The calculation is done as follows: with a step of 10 cm, 10 m of pipe will be required per m² of room area, with a step of 15 cm, the consumption will be 6.7 m/m². When laying the circuit on the diagram, it is necessary to bypass the areas where plumbing fixtures and heavy furniture are installed. One circuit covers a room of no more than 40 m², the maximum side length of the circuit is up to 8 m. Thus, in the flooring scheme in a private house, it is important to take into account:

• pipeline laying pitch limits;
• limits and contour size;
• thermal insulation material in areas of reduced pitch.

The pitch always decreases in the area of ​​the openings, and this must be taken into account in the layout plan.

Carrying out calculations

The standard formula for calculating the length of the circuit: the active heating area (sq. m) is divided by the laying step (m) plus the distance to the collector and the length of the bends. To obtain more accurate calculations, it is better to contact specialists, but this requires an investment of money, so we make a water heated floor in the house step by step with our own hands.

Advice: “Thermostats are installed to regulate the degree of heating of the coolant. The maximum gradation on devices is 55°.”

Detailed calculation scheme:

1. The distance from the walls is from 30 cm.
2. The determination of the number of circuits is calculated based on the length of the pipe per circuit. When dividing the area of ​​the room by laying step, add 10% for turns. Formula: L = S/N*1.1. Designation L - pipe length, S - room area, N - laying pitch. Thus, on an area of ​​40 m², when laying out a pipe with a pitch of 15 cm, the required definition is the sum of the lengths of all contours - 266 m.
3. When calculating the length of the circuit to the collector (one end - to the supply device, the other - to the return one), multiply the final figure by 2, and you will get the required length of the pipe from the connection point to the collector.
4. Pipe material: for polyethylene diameter in 18 mm, the length is up to 120 m, metal-plastic - no more than 125 m. Craftsmen do not advise making circuits longer than 90 m in order to ensure optimal hydraulic resistance and load on the coolant.
5. With a step of 30 cm, pipes of 3.4 m/m² are required; step of 25 cm - 3 m/m²; at 20 cm - 5 m/m²; at 15 cm - 6.7 m/m²; at 10 cm - 10 m/m².
6. If the area is 40 m² or more, the laying scheme is as follows: 3 circuits 100 m long, this makes it easier to ensure equal heating over the entire area.

Advice: “The length of the circuit is measured from the exit point from the collector, and not from the entrance area to the room where the system is installed.”

And now about how to calculate possible heat loss. The formula is complex and requires measurements of the heat transfer of all components and structures of the house, average precipitation, t°, air direction and other things. There are average indicators that the owner of the house can focus on:

1. In well-insulated buildings with installed sealed double-glazed windows, heat loss is 40 W/m².
2. In non-old houses with an average service life of thermal insulation of walls, windows, doors, the indicator is 70-80 W/m².
3. In old-type buildings with wooden windows, without insulation, heat loss reaches 100 W/m² or more.

Advice: “If the heat loss of a building is more than 100 W/m², installing a water-heated floor becomes impractical.”

Selection of components

To make a heated floor system in your home with your own hands, you will need the following set of materials: Boiler. As a rule, a water floor is made from a gas boiler. This is economically beneficial and simpler in technology. The power indicator of a gas boiler should exceed the sum of all capacities of the floor system by 15-20%. Another option is electric water floors. Convenient for installation, but unprofitable due to the high cost of electricity. Circulation pump. The device will ensure normal movement of the carrier through the pipes. The boiler already has a pump, but it copes with the load if the house area does not exceed 100 m². Pipes. The choice is:

• copper - durable, long term operation, but high cost;
• metal-plastic - durable, bendable, inexpensive and light in weight;
• polypropylene - low price, high heating limit, but there is a high risk of buying a fake;
• PEX - cross-linked polyethylene pipe - is a reliable option if the fastening is rigid and the step is minimal.

The calculated cross-section of pipes for do-it-yourself dry water heated floors is considered to be a size of up to 20 mm. Consumption per 1 m² (200 mm increments) is approximately 5-6 m. Insulation. Here the choice is:

• foil polyethylene is suitable for minimal floor thickness;
• expanded polystyrene in ready-made mats with protrusions for laying out pipes in increments of 50*50 mm;
• mineral wool - cheap, but impractical due to its ability to absorb moisture from the solution.

Advice: “The layer of thermal insulation above the basement of a private house is always made thicker. It all depends on the required temperature of the carrier: the higher the indicator, the larger the insulation layer.”

Heat consumption meter. The device is needed for apartment buildings where warm water floors are installed. Manifold cabinet. Needed for installation of control elements and connection of pipe circuits with the heat supply main. Reinforcing mesh. The element helps to strengthen the concrete screed after the pipes are laid, but reinforcement may not be used. You will also need components for arranging the screed:

• screed solution (cement, sand, water);
• damper tape 10-15 cm wide;
• fasteners for fixing the pipe.

The number of elements will be determined by a pre-compiled diagram of warm water floors from a gas boiler. If the planning work is done correctly, there will be no errors. But the diagram itself should be saved so that in the event of a leak, you can quickly remember all the installation and fastening points.

Technology of work execution

To make a water floor, the installation technology provides a step-by-step algorithm of work:

• collector installation;
• preparing the floor with laying out damper tape and insulation;
• contour layout;
• connection with leak testing;
• crimping;
• screed

After completing the preparatory stages, the system is put into operation, then it is turned off and the finishing of the floors can be completed.

Assembly and installation of the manifold cabinet

When installing a water heated floor, it is extremely important not to skip any stages of work. Step-by-step instructions for heated floors involve a detailed examination of the technology; even a novice master will not have any difficulties. A manifold cabinet is a device that contains:

• collector;
• pump;
• air vent valve;
• drain outlet

The dimensional parameters of the device depend on the overall configuration. When choosing a unit, it is necessary to calculate the installation area - it must be equidistant from all circuits. There is no way to fulfill the condition; we place the collector next to the longest pipe circuit.

Important! When installing a heated floor system in the area where the collector is installed, it is necessary to provide an area for bending the pipeline. Pipes are laid only from below to ensure normal coolant movement. Installing a shut-off valve between the loop system and the manifold is necessary for preventive maintenance and repair of the structure.

Preparing the base and laying insulation

To install underfloor heating in a private house, you need to carry out preparatory work based on:

• clean the base from debris;
• remove height differences, leveling the plane as much as possible;
• lay the selected thermal insulation material;
• waterproofing (thick film) is laid on the thermal insulation;
• along the walls there is a damper tape that will eliminate the effect of thermal expansion of the concrete screed.

An equal thickness of heated floors is necessary for high-quality heating of the entire surface, therefore, the better the plane is leveled, the more evenly the screed layer will lie.

Circuit design in different ways

When thinking about how to make a water-heated floor, you will have to take into account the area of ​​the room. The pipe layout depends on this:

1. Snail. A contour of heated floors from the heating boiler of a private house is laid out around the perimeter of the room, going towards the center with a layout across a row. This scheme ensures rapid return of the coolant and increases the uniformity of heating of the area. Craftsmen prefer the “snail” in rooms with a complex shape, where it is necessary to shift the center of the pipe and in rooms with an area of ​​40 m² or more.
2. Snake or loops. This installation of pipes for a warm water floor is carried out from the collector along outer wall(one), then in waves with a return. Good layout for small spaces.
3. Meander or double snake. The combined layout scheme implies a parallel arrangement of contours. This option organizes the movement of coolant at different temperatures, compensating for heat transfer.

Important! The laying of water heated floor pipes always starts from the outer or coldest wall of the room.

To make laying out easier, a beginner should draw markings on the floor. Installation of the system with unreliable connections or pipe sections is not allowed - such a design will not withstand a long heating season.

How to make a heated floor correctly:

1. The installation of the floor begins with connection to the supply manifold. You can retreat only 7 cm from the wall, but it is worth considering the small layout step near the outer walls. This is required to reduce heat loss.
2. Once the pipe is laid along the entire contour, it must be secured with a clamp. Dowels are suitable if you tie pipes to them with wire. Another option is to lay a reinforcing mesh on the floor, tying the contour of the pipe to it; this eliminates the expansion of materials when heat is applied.

Advice: “A ribbed polystyrene backing laid under the contours of the system will increase the thermal insulation performance and help you install the heated floor with your own hands evenly, while maintaining the desired pitch.”

Collector connection

It's simple: the free end of the pipe, which remains after laying out the circuit, is connected to the return manifold. To avoid mistakes, you should first read the instructions for the unit.

Crimping

This is the name of the hydraulic testing process necessary to check the quality of the layout. If we are making a heated floor in a private house, then crimping will help to adjust the installation order and other nuances. Pressure testing is the launch of coolant into the system at the highest possible pressure. The pressure level must exceed the design minimum by 1.5 - 2 times (from 0.6 MPa). What to look for when crimping:

1. Half an hour after start-up, a reduction in the permissible pressure is possible by 10%, no more.
2. The second half hour - the indicator should not decrease by more than 2-15% from the original designation.
3. The temperature of the carrier must remain unchanged.

The total inspection time is 24 hours. It is better to allow up to 2 days for the stage to make sure that the step-by-step installation of a water heated floor with your own hands is done correctly, the floors are heated evenly and there are no leaks, loose fasteners or other defects.

Screed

The instructions for installing a warm water floor involve making a screed from cement-sand mixture, which conducts heat well or classic concrete. To make concrete, take cement grade from M300, water, sand and 3-5% plasticizer.

The thickness of the screed is 3-7 mm. You need to pour the prepared solution onto the circuits filled with coolant. In this case, the system operates in the mode specified during crimp testing. The drying time for concrete is up to 28-30 days; the period for the finished mixture should be checked on the packaging.

Advice: “If you need to make heated floors in a private house with an area of ​​40 m² or more, you must provide expansion joints.”

First start

The procedure is carried out only after the screed has dried and gained strength. Now you can turn on the collector and circulate the coolant through the heating pipes of the warm water floor. First, the t° indicator is set to +25°C, then increases every day by 10°C. With a gradual increase in t°, the system gains the required heating parameter in 2 days.

Finishing

Knowing how to make warm floors yourself, it won’t be difficult to decorate them. Warm floors are installed under laminate, carpet, solid wood, or tiles - in a private home, the latter option is the most convenient. But if the installation scheme for tiles remains the same, then installation for laminate requires a special approach:

1. Laminate must be of high quality. When heated, the material releases volatiles, a fake would be inappropriate. It is better to look at the “Warmwasser” marking - this is decor for floors with water-heated floors.
2. Thermal insulation and waterproofing materials cannot be laid under the laminate.
3. To ensure ventilation, a compensation gap of up to 15 mm wide is left around the perimeter of the laminate laying. Then the gap is covered with a floor plinth.
4. Before laying the tiles, you need to spread the laminate on the floor, leaving the water circuit warm. This is necessary to set the temperature - the lamellas will warm up and it will be easier to lay them.

Despite the lack of difficulties, craftsmen rarely make water-based heated floors under laminate. Lamels are characterized by low thermal conductivity; tiles have a higher thermal conductivity; in addition, any dies are made using chemicals. In this case, tiles are much more practical.

Operating rules

Knowing how to professionally install a water-heated floor in your home, it will be useful to follow the rules of use. The requirements are simple and accessible:

1. Warm floors in a private house, the installation of which is carried out in compliance with the technology, always gain temperature gradually. By starting the circuit at its maximum level after a long period of inactivity, the owner will receive a reduction in service life.
2. The increase in temperature should be gradual, no more than 4-5⁰C per day.
3. The t° mode indicator of the incoming coolant is not higher than 45⁰С.
4. Frequent startups and shutdowns of the system are fraught with rapid wear and tear, but do not reduce costs.

To use heating with pleasure and without harm to health, it is recommended to maintain an optimal humidity level.

There are no special difficulties in the design. And knowing how to make a heated floor in a private house, the owner will be able to carry out the installation outdoors, for example on entrance area, stairs, car parking.

They are inferior in efficiency to new ones, and central heating services are constantly becoming more expensive. Therefore, consumers are looking for an alternative to how to make heated floors in a private house with autonomous economical heating.

This technology is more economical in terms of fuel costs, it allows you to remove bulky radiators, freeing up space for other useful interior elements. Pipes under the floor covering do not spoil the appearance of the environment and do not interfere with cleaning the premises.

On the environmental side, heated floors provide ideal heat distribution for a person’s comfort.

The space warms up well at a level of 1-1.5 m above the floor; higher up there is cooler air. Therefore, many are studying techniques on how to make heated floors in a private home. The simplicity of proven technologies allows you to make a heated floor with your own hands.

Types of heated floors

Long-term practice of using the “warm floor” technology has shown its effectiveness: uniform distribution of heat over the entire area of ​​​​the room and. There are some restrictions: heating the flooring to more than 30-40 ̊C is not recommended, this will create some discomfort when walking, and you can burn your bare feet. With a large number of rooms, high ceilings, especially in regions where temperatures are low long time

year, you should not rely entirely on the underfloor heating circuit. You can make a heated floor in your house with your own hands and use it as an additional source in the general heating system. Make a smart calculation heating system Taking into account heat loss, it’s difficult to do it yourself.

• This is done by highly qualified heating engineers, and many parameters are taken into account:
• room volume;
• thickness and type of building materials of walls and flooring;
• climate zone;

average annual temperature, wind roses and much more. Such calculations are not cheap; it is easier to install a heated floor in a private house with your own hands, using already accumulated statistics. Practice shows that in the north of Russia in brick buildings with thickness load-bearing walls

60 cm underfloor heating is used as additional heating. In the middle zone and southern regions, these technologies can be used as the main heating system.

• There are two main designs of heated floors:
• water heated floor, where pipes are laid with liquid coolant circulating through them;

Heating electric cables or films are laid under the floor coverings.

It is not recommended to install a water heated floor from a central heating system; it is illegal. This issue needs to be coordinated with utility services, which is very difficult, and it is not a fact that everything will subsequently function reliably. It is better to make heated floors in the house from an autonomous boiler using its own fuel.

The installation of a heated floor and the calculation of the amount of heat required for the floor in a private house in a certain room are made based on practical experience. Laying cables or pipes 3-5 meters long per 1 m 2 in increments of no more than 30 cm allows the release of heat of 60-80 kW/m 2. This is enough to heat a residential private house. The premises are provided with a temperature of up to 25 °C in the middle zone and in the south of Russia with well-insulated walls and windows.

Water heated floors

The technology of water heated floors is effective in operation from an economic point of view. Payment costs are 20-30% less compared to a classic radiator system. But installation of the system is labor-intensive; the design contains a large number of expensive elements and connection units.

Essential elements:

• Heating boiler: models can be electric, gas, liquid and solid fuel, hybrid options. The choice is made based on the cost and availability of energy resources in a particular region.

Gas models are especially in demand for heated floors in the house, this is explained by the autonomy of this type of boiler. Gas in many regions of Russia is the most accessible and inexpensive fuel. The heating system of these boilers does not depend on central heating and water supply. It allows you to independently regulate power consumption and fuel consumption depending on your needs.

• Pipes. 3-5 m are consumed per 1 m 2 of heated surface, these standards have been determined for many years practical experience. Popular models of pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene, durable heat-resistant products with a material density of 60-80%. To achieve these qualities it is used different ways processing.

When irradiated with an electron flow in a magnetic field, a density of 60% is achieved, treatment with peroxide creates a crosslinking density of 75%, and with selanium gas – 65%. In any case, this density is sufficient for laying heated floors.

A good option - metal-plastic pipes, durable and heat-resistant, have three load-bearing layers and two adhesive layers.

The inner and outer layers are cross-linked polyethylene, the middle layer is aluminium foil 0.2-2.5 mm, hermetically welded along the entire length.

• Collector. It distributes the coolant along the circuits; this is the main heat mixing unit; all individual circuits are connected in it. A manifold is installed with as many thermal valves as there are in the circuit system. The length of the circuits is different, so the amount of coolant in them is not the same, the cooling time of the liquid in the circuits does not coincide. To maintain the set temperature, temperature sensors are installed in each circuit; they promptly control the servos, distributing hot and cooled flows in given directions.
• Thermovent. A three-way mechanical valve is often used to distribute the intensity of hot and cooled flows. For automatic control, electric drives are installed on the valve.

• Circulation pump. It is recommended to install a pump with a wet rotor; its impeller rotates and is lubricated by coolant, the operation is very quiet.

• Coolant. This could be water, antifreeze or antifreeze.

Costs will be required for waterproofing materials, thermal insulation, cement screed and flooring.

Laying sequence

On the floor basements a preliminary screed is made on the ground, the surface is covered with sand to a depth of 5-7 cm, then with crushed stone 3-5 mm to a thickness of 8-10 cm. For vapor barrier, everything is covered with plastic film, a layer of 8-10 cm is applied on top river sand with fraction screening from 0.05 to 0.1 cm.

A layer of waterproofing is laid on the preliminary screed. It could be bitumen-rubber mastic, it is applied with a brush. It is easier to use adhesive rolls based on bitumen with polymer ingredients. Sheet structure – fiberglass reinforced or polyester. An insulating layer – extruded polystyrene foam (foam plastic) – is laid on top. The thickness of the insulating layer in basements is 10 cm or more, at upper floors 5-10 cm is enough.

It is very effective to use thin elastic insulation with a reflective surface. The structure of the rolls is made of polymer filled with air bubbles, or mineral wool, layer thickness from 2 to 50 mm.

The reflective layer, 14-20 microns, comes in several structure options:

• double-sided – foil on both sides of the roll;
• one-sided;
• self-adhesive, with an adhesive surface on one side and a foil surface on the other.

Heat-resistant metal-plastic pipes in the shape of a snake or snail are laid on the reflective insulation. Pipes are attached to special metal or plastic strips; often a metal mesh is applied to reinforce the screed and evenly distribute the load on the pipes.

The pipes are fixed to the mesh with plastic bundles, the wire on the mesh is Ø 3-4 mm, the mesh size is 5-10 cm. The concrete screed is applied 7-8 centimeters thick, it is carefully leveled, and after drying the floor covering is laid.

For heated floors, it is recommended to use a ceramic coating, it in the best possible way accumulates and transfers heat. When installing pipes on concrete slabs

no pre-screed elements are made. The process begins with cleaning, leveling the surface and waterproofing, the rest of the operations are the same.

You cannot make a concrete screed on wooden floors, they may not support the weight and collapse. In wooden houses, hydro- and thermal insulation is installed on the floor, logs are nailed, between which pipes are laid. Boards, plywood, chipboard are placed on the logs, after which facing coating, parquet, laminate or other materials are applied.

Electric heated floor

Less equipment is required for the installation of this structure, and installation is simpler. The absence of coolant fluid greatly simplifies the entire heating system. For heating, a heating cable or infrared film is used; they are connected to electrical circuits through thermostats.

Laying heating cable and plates

In the absence of liquid coolant, waterproofing on the slabs can be eliminated, since there will be no chance of leakage. When laying on the ground, it is recommended to leave the preliminary screed and waterproofing. Such a warm, waterproofed floor in a private house will prevent the penetration of moisture from the ground into the room. Otherwise, the materials for the screed and the sequence remain the same. The cables are laid in a similar way, like a snake or snail. To warm well-insulated rooms to +18-25 ̊C, 150-200 W/1m2 is required; if you take 3-5 m of cable per 1m2, the laying step will be 10-30 cm. The temperature threshold for rooms is calculated based on their functional purpose , in the bathroom it’s warmer – up to +25 ̊С, in the hall – +20 ̊С. Manufacturers make different cables; when purchasing, you need to ask how much power 1 consumes.

linear meter Infrared plates are produced in rolls of width 800 mm, 500 mm and 1 meter, length 0.7-15 m. They are fixed to thermal tape, laid 20 cm from the walls and no closer than 6 mm from each other, connected in parallel to a 220V network.

The power consumption of the plates is 45-65 W/m 2 *h, this is the amount of electricity consumed by 1 m 2 of film per hour, the melting temperature of the insulating film on the plates is 130 ̊C. There are ready-made mats, insulation with a reflective layer attached to them on infrared plates, the width of such products is 83 cm, length is 1-12 m.

It is imperative to take into account the installation locations of furniture and large items. household appliances (washing machine, refrigerator, cabinets) indoors. It is not recommended to lay cables and plates under them.

Laying of heating cables and plates should be planned on the free surface of the floor covering. This will reduce the load on heat sources, and the space in the room will be heated more efficiently.

Connecting electric heating elements

Exists different types cables:

• Single-wire - not divided into parts, produced at a certain power and length. After installation, they are connected to the network through a thermostat, with opposite ends;

• Two-wire cables are closed at one end, which is hermetically sealed with a plastic cap. The other end with two wires is connected to the network through a thermostat; the cable is not cut into pieces.

• Two-wire self-regulating cable– cut into pieces in certain places. A film matrix located along the entire length between the copper conductors acts as a thermostat. Resistance changes with temperature environment. Current begins to flow between the wires in those places where the temperature is below +5 ̊C. The lower the temperature around the cable, the greater the current and heating of the cable. Such models are expensive.

Thermostats

Manufacturers offer many different types:

• Mechanical (analog) regulators are the simplest and most reliable.

• Digital - with liquid crystal displays, which display several parameters: the temperature of the floor covering, the air in the room, and sometimes the current time.

• Digital programmable thermostats - allow you to set a certain temperature at different times of the day (day - night) or by day of the week. In the absence of people, the temperature drops and rises before arrival, this makes the operating mode more economical.

• Thermostats with remote control can be controlled by a remote control in the infrared range, like on TVs, via a radio channel. More expensive models work over the GSM network, over the Internet online, and are controlled from an iPhone, tablet or PC, from any place where there is a cellular connection or cable Internet.

Thermostats differ in controls: mechanical models the wire resistance is changed by a moving contact on a plastic disk in the device body.

IN digital regulators The resistance is changed by a microcircuit, which includes an electronic switching relay. Control can be carried out by mechanical buttons or touch segments on the display, as on mobile iPhones or tablets.

Regardless of the thermostat model, control units are connected via typical scheme to elements with identical functional purposes:

• to 220V network;
• to the heating cable;
• to one or more temperature sensors;
• through grounding.

For safety reasons, all electric heating systems in private households are connected to the network in the control panel via a circuit breaker. short circuit and RCD (touch protection device).

Bottom line

Technologies for installing heated floors provide many different installation options. To determine the appropriate method and best materials, we must proceed from financial capabilities, take into account the climatic conditions of the location of the facility and the functional purpose of the premises.

Installing a heated floor allows you to save a lot on heating costs. In addition, it perfectly replaces everything heating devices, while freeing usable area premises. We will discuss the technology of installing a water heated floor and how to make a water heated floor below.

Warm water floor in a private house - operating principle

The water floor is a new independent system heating, which in some way replaces radiators and convectors. This system consists of built-in pipelines containing hot water. They are laid on a base made of concrete or wood, and covered on top with floor finishing material.

The pipes that make up the systems are polymer; it is through them that hot liquid, most often water, circulates. It is supplied using central heating or boiler system. Warm air begins to warm up in underground space and gradually rises up the room. Thus, the heat is distributed throughout the room. The lower part of the room is warmer than the upper part, so it is very comfortable to be in the room.

The scope of use of warm water floors extends to private houses, since in multi-storey buildings there is a risk of flooding neighbors with hot water due to a breakdown of the system.

The warm water floor system consists of a pipeline and a coolant mixing unit. For the pipeline, preference should be given to pipes with high level thermal conductivity, in addition, they must be flexible and have low resistance. Used for filling the pipeline cement strainer- the coolant mixing unit system includes a pump, a thermostatic mixer and a manifold.

Water heated floor: advantages and disadvantages

If we compare the arrangement of heated floors with the use of other types of heaters, then the first option has the following advantages:

1. Reduced heating costs.

When installing a warm water floor, the cost of using electricity is reduced by 25-30%. If the room area is large enough and the ceilings are too high, then a warm water floor is the most best option. Since in this case, it helps to save 50%.

2. Comfortable living conditions.

A room with a warm water floor warms up evenly, thus creating optimal and comfortable living conditions for people. When using radiators, warm air, which comes from them, immediately rises to the top, thus, the lower part of the room remains unheated. On a floor with a water floor, you don’t have to walk around wearing shoes, and children can play on it calmly without getting hypothermic.

3. High level of security.

The coolant is located under the floor finish, thus eliminating the risk of getting burned or injured by it.

4. Attractive appearance of the room.

The warm water floor is hidden in the underground space, so all pipes and other elements of the system remain invisible.

5. Good compatibility.

Water-heated floors combine well with most finishing materials, such as tiles, linoleum, and laminate.

6. Affordable price.

Installing the entire system requires a small investment compared to the result obtained.

7. Various options connections.

It is possible to connect a warm water floor to an autonomous or centralized heating system.

8. Independence from power supply.

This advantage allows the warm floor to heat the house, even when for some reason the lights are turned off.

Among the disadvantages of using water heated floors at home, we highlight:

• the time and labor costs for installing the equipment and the entire system are quite high, since there are several various materials, laid in layers;
• if malfunctions appear in the form of leaks, the entire floor covering should be dismantled to eliminate them;
• the need for additional heating sources, since an exclusively warm floor is not able to cope with heating the room.

Warm floors water installation diagrams and varieties

Depending on the main material, there are three main types of underfloor heating installation:

• concrete;
• polystyrene;
• tree.

The first option is the most popular, as it has the highest reliability. In order to arrange the distribution layer in concrete version heated floor construction uses cement-sand mortar.

On a pre-leveled surface, a layer of waterproofing is laid, and then thermal insulation. Next, the pipes are laid and fixed. To equip large rooms with warm floors, you should take care of laying reinforcing mesh.

When arranging a small room, plastic staples, fastening scarves or dowel hooks are used to secure the pipes.

Previously installed system poured using a solution of cement, sand and special plasticizers that help strengthen the screed and protect it from impact high temperature.

In this case, the best finishing options are to use tiles, decorative stone or laminated parquet boards.

The second option is to install a polystyrene system. This option represents a simplified installation of a heated floor system, which uses polystyrene boards. The slabs are pressed in a special shape; they look like a convex circle, inside which pipes are installed. For creating monolithic base There are key areas that are connected to each other. When installing this heating system, it is not necessary to use additional fasteners to secure the pipes. After installing the pipeline, metal heat distribution plates are installed, then finishing material is laid on the floor.

The third option is a heated floor system built on wooden base. This system implies the use edged boards, plywood or other wood-based materials, as a covering for the installation of the system.

From wooden slabs construct small strips, each no more than 18 cm long. They are laid on a floor made of wood. A pipeline is installed in the gaps between the strips, and then the heat spreaders are fixed using screws. After installing the pipes, the floor surface is covered with polyethylene film, then a floor made of gypsum fiber sheets is installed, which distributes the temperature in the underground space. It is on them that the main finishing is attached.

To ensure high-quality distribution of coolant throughout the system, it is recommended to use a collector. It is to this that the outgoing and outgoing pipes are connected.

When considering the question of how to make a water heated floor in a house, you should familiarize yourself with the laying diagrams of the pipeline system, there are several of them:

• pipes are laid in the form of a snake;
• snails;
• combinations of different methods.

Laying a pipe in the form of a snake involves installing pipes parallel to each other.

According to the snail diagram, the pipes are first located around the perimeter of the room, with a gradual narrowing towards the center. The last option involves a combination of these two methods.

Calculation of a warm water floor: features of the process

In the calculation procedure for installing a water-based heated floor, some points should be taken into account, namely:

• using the floor as the main or additional option heating;
• building type;
• further type of finishing;
• total area and purpose of the room;
• heat losses and their significance.

To determine the last factor, namely heat loss, the following nuances should be taken into account:

• the type of materials from which the house is built;
• window type: standard, single or double glazing;
• number of windows and doors;
• climatic features of the region;
• the presence of additional heating devices.

Each type of room has a certain temperature to which the floor must be heated, namely:

• in the residential area it is 29 degrees;
• in a zone with high heating - 35 degrees;
• with high humidity 32 degrees;
• when finishing with parquet - 26.

Please note that before installing a heated floor, you should foresee in advance the type of coating that will act as a finish.

Installation of water heated floor: collector and its features

The collector cabinet is the location of such a device as a collector. For installation of this cabinet you will need a space of approximately 500x500 or 400x600 mm.

In addition, some owners of heated floors plan to mount the cabinet directly into the wall, while others leave it in a hanging position.

After installing the cabinet in which the collector is located, the supply and return pipes are installed, through which hot and cold water. The collector who is responsible for the distribution hot water connects to the supply pipe, and the return pipe connects to the manifold, which joins the end sections of the pipes.

At the junction of the water pipes with the collector, a shut-off valve is installed, which will allow the entire system to be repaired, if necessary. A drain valve is required on the other side of the collector.

In order to efficiently and quickly regulate the temperature in the room, you should ensure that you have a mixer and control screws. There are special types of manifolds, which contain all the parts necessary for adjustment and operation, but their cost is much higher than that of conventional manifolds.

Laying a warm water floor on a concrete base

The procedure for laying a warm hearth on a concrete base involves performing the following processes:

1. Cleaning and leveling the base.

To begin with, dirt, dust and any debris are removed from the surface. Next, it is checked for the absence of differences and for evenness. If the difference is no more than 10 mm, then proceed to the next stage of work. If there are more serious differences, the surface is first leveled. For this purpose, provision should be made for a self-leveling subfloor.

2. Providing waterproofing.

This step prevents moisture from entering and contacting the heated floor.

3. Installation of edge insulation.

Using a damper tape installed around the perimeter of the room will help carry out this process.

4. Installation of vapor barrier materials.

In order to save on materials, instead of separate waterproofing and vapor barrier, a waterproofing membrane is used, one side of which has a waterproof film, and the other side easily allows steam to pass through.

5. Strengthening.

For these purposes, a reinforcing mesh with a cross-section of about 150-200 mm is suitable. It is this material that will ensure ease of installation of the pipeline system. It is possible to install fittings before laying pipes or after completing this process. It is better to give preference to the second option, since with the help of reinforcement it will be possible to evenly distribute the entire load on the floor.

6. Installation of water heated floor.

First, the pipe is connected to the collector. If a warm floor is used as the only heating element, then it is installed at intervals of 150-200 mm. Otherwise, it is allowed to lay pipes with a maximum pitch of 300 mm. The pipe is connected to the mesh using special clips. Do not fix the clips too tightly, as there is a risk of damage to them when the system heats up.

7. System performance and testing.

Heated floors are water-based and after installation they require a mandatory check for serviceability. To do this, the system is turned on for a certain time, for example for three hours. During this process, the system should warm up and the water should be evenly distributed over the surface.

8. Filling procedure.

The screed must exceed the piping system by 20-30 mm, the type of screed must be wet.

After the screed has dried, about a month later, install soundproofing materials and carry out a finishing touch. It is forbidden to turn on the heated floor until the screed is completely dry, as there is a risk of it cracking. At this point, the do-it-yourself water-heated floor is considered ready for use.

Water heated floor video:

Do-it-yourself water heated floor in a private house

There is no need to talk about the comfort of using heated floors; this type of heating is very popular in private homes, as it is effective and has high efficiency. Despite the fact that this type of work is not much more difficult than others related to arranging maximum convenience and comfort of one’s own home, few know how to make a heated floor with their own hands.

Let's consider theoretical and practical issues related to independent calculation and arrangement of water floor heating in small residential or office spaces.

Preparatory work and calculation of materials

Such a responsible job as installing a heated floor with your own hands should begin with the preparation of materials and planning. Strictly speaking, an accurate calculation can only be made by specialists who have information about the level of heat leakage in a given room. But for individual needs they often use rough calculations that meet the stated requirements.

First you need to draw a plan for the placement of pipes. The clearest and most visual diagram will be a diagram drawn on paper in a checkered pattern, the warm floor on which can be calculated based on the square footage of the room. Each cell will correspond to a pitch - the distance between the pipes.

For zone temperate climate:

• If the house and windows are well insulated, the distance between adjacent turns of the pipe can be 15-20 cm;
• If the walls are not insulated, 10-15 cm.
• In spacious rooms, where some of the walls are cold and some are warm, a variable step is taken: near the cold walls the distance between adjacent turns of pipes is small, and as you approach the warm walls, it increases.

What flooring is suitable for heated floors?

A big mistake is made by those who plan to lay parquet or thick wood covering. Wood is a poor conductor of heat and will prevent the room from heating up. The efficiency of such heating may be even lower than that of radiator heating, and heating costs may be too high.

The ideal covering for a heated floor is stone, ceramic or porcelain tiles. Once heated, it will keep warm perfectly, and this is the best option for the kitchen or bathroom. Children love to play in rooms where the floor is warm, and walking barefoot there is more pleasant than on wooden parquet.

A slightly worse flooring option, but more suitable for a guest room or bedroom, is linoleum and laminate. These materials transmit heat well and will not reduce the efficiency of water heating. In this case, the laminate should be chosen with a minimum thickness, and linoleum - without an insulating backing.

When heated, many synthetic materials may emit harmful fumes. Therefore, floor coverings with chemical components must have a manufacturer’s mark indicating the possibility of their use in residential premises on heated floors.

Base for heated floors

If we are talking about a house with concrete floors, then the most affordable and generally accepted option is a water-heated concrete screed. The same method is used for the first (ground) floors of private cottages, if the base of the floor is on a sand cushion, which is located directly on the ground.

In houses with wooden floors, this option is not applicable. Wooden floor beams simply will not withstand the enormous weight of a concrete screed, no matter how thin it is. In this case, a lightweight version of underfloor heating is used, which will be discussed in a separate section.

Installing a heated floor with your own hands begins with preparing the base. The base for creating a warm floor must be flat, without protrusions and depressions. The maximum permissible difference is 5 mm. If the depth of surface defects reaches 1-2 cm, then you will have to pour and level a thin layer of granite screenings (fine crushed stone) with a grain size of up to 5 mm. You will have to lay a film on top of the leveling layer and, when laying the thermal insulation, walk on wooden shields. Otherwise, the leveling layer itself will become a source of unevenness.

Laying schemes for water heated floors

The most common layouts for laying water floors are snail and spiral. The snail evenly heats the entire floor area. But with a spiral design, it is possible to provide a greater level of heating in the coldest zone of the room. To do this, the first branches of the pipe through which hot water is supplied are laid there. Based on the finished drawing, the exact length of the pipe is determined.

For heated floors, only a single piece of pipe is used! If the room area is very large, several heating circuits are planned. The length of the pipe of each circuit should not exceed 100 m. Otherwise, the pressure required for the normal coolant flow rate will be too high. In area this corresponds to 15 sq.m.

It is best to make a water floor with your own hands from a metal-plastic pipe with a diameter of 16 mm. It bends easily with a fairly small radius, and working with it is much more convenient than with a cross-linked polyethylene pipe. It is not advisable to use a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm. A larger diameter will require an increase in the thickness of the concrete, and this has a bad effect on the efficiency of the heating system.

Typically pipe consumption per 1 sq.m. area is:

• 10 m at 10 cm increments;
• 6.75 m at 15 cm pitch.

Selection of thermal insulation and fasteners for water heated floors

To prevent heat from escaping downwards, a layer of dense foam is placed on the base. The density of the insulation is selected to be at least 25, and better yet, 35 kg/cub.m. Lighter polystyrene foam will simply collapse under the weight of the concrete layer.

Insulation and heat reflector

Optimal thickness insulation - 5 cm. When laying on the ground or if increased protection from the cold is needed, when the level below is an unheated room, the thickness of the thermal insulation can be increased to 10 cm. To reduce heat losses, it is recommended to lay a heat-reflecting screen made of metallized film over the insulation. It could be:

• Penofol (metalized polyethylene foam);
• Reflective foam screen glued behind radiators;
• Regular aluminum food foil.

The metallized layer is quickly destroyed by the aggressive action of concrete, so the screen itself also needs protection. This protection serves polyethylene film, which is used for greenhouses and greenhouse farming. The film thickness should be 75-100 microns.

In addition, it provides the necessary moisture for the maturing concrete screed throughout the entire period of its hardening. The pieces of film must be overlapped, and the joint must be sealed with tape.

Fastening connections for water heating pipes

Pipe fasteners are installed on the thermal insulation. Its purpose is to secure adjacent branches of the pipe and position it along the floor in strict accordance with the preliminary plan. The fastener holds the pipe until the concrete screed reaches the desired degree of hardness. The use of fasteners facilitates the installation of the floor and ensures correct placement of the pipe in the thickness of the concrete pad.

Fasteners can be special metal strips, metal welded mesh, plastic brackets that pin the pipe to the foam base.

1. Metal strips used with increased thickness of the concrete pad. They slightly raise the pipe relative to the heat insulator, due to which it is closer to the upper surface of the concrete pad. The pipe simply snaps into the shaped recesses of the strips.
2. Metal grid not only secures the pipe, but also reinforces the layer of concrete pad. The pipe is tied to the mesh with pieces of wire or plastic clamps. Fastener consumption is 2 pcs. per linear meter. Additional fasteners can be used in places where there are curves.
3. Plastic brackets are installed manually. They pin the pipe to the polystyrene foam as it is laid. Do-it-yourself semi-industrial heated floors are made using a special stapler. But its purchase is justified only with intensive professional use.

In recent years, manufacturers of underfloor heating systems have begun to offer another very convenient solution. We are talking about special sheets of dense polystyrene foam with a profiled surface. Typically, the surface of such sheets consists of intersections of grooves or rows of protruding elements, between which heating pipes are easily laid.

The surface of the sheets is smooth, extruded, all pores are closed and no additional waterproofing film is required. Having a special thermal cutter, you can cut grooves in polystyrene foam yourself. But to carry out this work you need at least minimal experience.

Metal-plastic pipes are supplied in coils. When laying, the coil rolls out along the pipe placement path. Do not pull the pipe from a lying coil, as this will cause it to twist and may lead to delamination of the internal layers.

Selecting a recipe, preparing and pouring concrete

Pipes can only be poured with concrete after they are completely laid, connected to the collectors and filled with water under a pressure of 4 bar. Before pouring, it is necessary to maintain the pipe under this pressure for a couple of days. If a leak is discovered, it is repaired immediately. If the heating system itself has not yet been installed, instead of water, air is pumped into the pipes using a compressor and the pressure is fixed with ball valves.

Immediately after injection, the pressure may drop slightly due to straightening of the pipes. During pouring and hardening of concrete, the pressure is monitored using a connected pressure gauge.

To compensate for thermal expansion, we attach a damper tape along all walls. The thermal expansion of the concrete pad is 0.5 mm per linear meter, with an increase in temperature of 40 degrees. If the heating is only 20 degrees, the expansion will accordingly be half as much. We multiply the expansion by the length of the longest section of the concrete floor and compare the resulting value with the thickness of the damper tape.

For ordinary apartments As a rule, it is enough to lay the tape only along the walls and at the door threshold. In addition, the damper tape also plays the role of thermal insulation of the walls from the heated floor. This method eliminates cold bridges that cause unnecessary heat loss.

Additionally, in some cases expansion stitches are made:

• if the length of any side of the room is more than 8 meters;
• the width and length of the room differ by more than twice;
• floor area exceeds 30 sq.m.;
• the shape of the room has several bends.

For extended heated floors, an expansion joint with a damper tape is installed every 10 m. To prevent the movement of concrete pads in these places from breaking the pipe, a rigid plastic corrugation (preferable) or a larger diameter pipe is placed on it. The penetration of the protective pipe into the concrete pads is at least 0.5 m on each side.

If, according to the placement scheme, there is an accumulation of warm pipes in one place (for example, near the collector), then a heat insulating sleeve must be put on some of the pipes. This will help avoid local overheating and retain heat for the desired areas of the floor.

How to make a water heated floor: concreting

If concrete for pouring is not brought in, but is prepared on site, then the following components will be required:

• cement grade 300 or 400 - 1 part by weight;
• washed river sand - 1.9 parts per hour;
• crushed stone 5-20 mm in size - 3.7 w.p.

This is the composition heavy concrete. Its weight reaches 2.5 tons per 1 cubic meter. finished material.

Many people prefer to avoid sand in concrete for underfloor heating. This is due to its poor thermal conductivity. Therefore, in practice, cement-gravel mixtures are also used. Its composition:

• granite crushed stone 5-20 mm - 2 buckets;
• cement - 1 bucket;
• fine granite screenings up to 5 mm - 4 buckets;
• water - 7 l (you can add another 1 l if the solution is very thick).

Granite conducts heat well, and such concrete has a much lower thermal resistance. It is also recommended to introduce reinforcing fiber into the composition, which is small plastic fibers.

Any self-leveling floor must contain a plasticizer. The specific amount depends on the specific brand and purpose of this drug. The plasticizer should not be just any plasticizer, but specifically for heated floors!

If the pipe was attached to strips or brackets, a reinforcing mesh is laid on top of it. The height of the concrete screed is selected from 5 to 10 cm. In this case, it is necessary to provide at least 3 cm of concrete above the pipe. A smaller layer is fraught with cracking. And a concrete pad that is too thick increases heat transfer losses.

With the right choice of concrete and normal temperature, it begins to set within 4 hours. To maintain normal humidity, it should be covered with a waterproof film, and when the surface dries, water it with water. After just 12 hours, hardened concrete can support the weight of a person. But its full ripening occurs only after 28 days. All this time you need to take care of humidity and maintain high pressure in laid pipes. Only after the specified period has passed can the first thermal test this gender.

Both during the first test and subsequently, it is impossible to quickly heat the water-heated floor to a high temperature!

Flooring

Ready concrete base You can glue tiles and other floor coverings. In this case, glue intended for heated floors is used. If the tile falls on an expansion joint, then one part of it must be glued, and the second must be placed on silicone. Silicone adhesive absorbs thermal movements of the base, and the tile will not crack from overstress.

Lightweight heated floors for wooden floors

As mentioned earlier, for wooden floors a light heated floor without a concrete pad is installed. In this case, the sequence of work may differ slightly depending on the condition of the old floor and the design of the ceiling.

To prevent heat from escaping downwards, insulation is placed under the pipes. It can be placed between the floor joists, and then it is better to use mineral wool, or it can be laid on an old durable subfloor - here you will need polystyrene foam with a density of 25-35 kg/cub.m. To prevent condensation from forming, a vapor barrier membrane is placed under the mineral wool. The first subfloor is placed on top of the joists.

Just as for a concrete floor, it is advisable to lay a heat-reflecting screen made of foil or foam foam on the insulation. All joints and seams must be sealed with tape.

The logs are laid directly on the polystyrene foam, to which the subfloor boards are nailed. There should be gaps of about 2 cm between the boards for laying the pipe. Similar gaps must be provided at the ends of the subfloor boards. Otherwise, you will have to choose transverse grooves for the pipe, and this can lead to breakage of the boards.

To ensure that heat is evenly distributed across the floor, the pipe is placed not just in grooves, but in special metal gutters designed for this purpose. The metal transfers heat over its entire surface and evenly heats the final finish. Recommendations for its choice have already been given above - it can be a laminate with permission to work with heating or hard polymer coating. Thick parquet and parquet board Least suitable for heated floors.

Compared to concrete heated floors, lightweight construction is much faster and costs significantly less. Another advantage is the ability to repair water pipes in the event of an accident. Problems with tubes in concrete floor can only be eliminated by replacing it completely.

The main disadvantage of a wooden heated floor is its significantly lower thermal power.

It is possible to supply heated floors from the heating of apartment buildings only with the permission of the heat energy supplier. All recommendations remain in force, although we personally recommend installing a heat-resistant water filter at the pipe inlet.

Bottom line

Properly equipped heat in own home- this is another step towards comfortable and convenient living conditions for the whole family. But, even if you are not able to complete these works and are forced to invite craftsmen, the knowledge gained will allow you to take an active part in this process.

Very popular among homeowners floor systems heating The best solution for creating heat in a private home may be to install a water floor. However, making the right choice and installing it indoors is a difficult task, since this process has its own nuances and requires some knowledge.

Features: pros and cons

A water heated floor is a structure consisting of a heating circuit consisting of pipes. They are connected to the main heating system.

The undoubted advantages of such a device are:

• Rational use of energy, which avoids significant waste of material resources. When installing such a system, cash costs for electricity are reduced by almost half.
• Creating coziness and comfort in your home.
• Uniform heat distribution throughout the room.

• A fairly high level of safety due to the fact that the coolant is located under the floor, so there is no risk of burns or injury.
• Undeniable compatibility with finishing materials. For example, the device is easily suitable for surfaces such as tiles, linoleum or laminate. If materials with chemical additives are used, this should be indicated on the packaging. You should check whether the manufacturer allows such products to be installed in residential areas.
• Variability of connection. So, you can connect directly to the main heating system, or you can create a separate heat supply structure.

However, the warm water floor system has some disadvantages:

• To obtain a low heating temperature, you need to have a mixer that works in conjunction with a water pump.
• Often leads to a decrease in pressure in central heating.
• It takes a lot of time to install due to the need to create a multi-layer installation.
• If leaks occur, the entire coating must be opened, which can lead to possible damage.
• A warm water floor cannot cope with heating the entire room, so there must be a boiler to heat the entire space.

Overall, this design has more advantages and will certainly be a savior in winter time of the year. It is not recommended to turn off the system in winter.

Wiring diagrams

Based on the quality of the material, the following types of installation of warm water floors are distinguished: country cottage, in the country:

• Concrete. Here a screed is used with the installation of waterproofing and thermal insulation, fixing pipes with reinforcing mesh. Tile, stone or parquet boards are used as a covering.
• Polystyrene. This is a simple installation option using special polystyrene plates, which, after pressing, obtain a convex shape. Pipes are placed inside.
• Wooden floors.

For the latter, the wiring diagram is quite simple. To install this heating method in private wooden houses, there are several methods for laying a water structure on a plank surface. Plastic tubes are installed under the floor. They provide hot water.

The maximum heating temperature of such surfaces is no more than 30 degrees, otherwise the wooden coating will begin to dry out.

Hot water circulates constantly. It is important to remember that the room heating system is not connected to the floor heating. The heating process is carried out by boilers of any type. The best option would be if the boiler consists of two heating circuits. That is, one of them is designed to create heat in the premises itself, and the other is for a heated floor system.

This design will save money, since the air begins to rise from the bottom up, and convectors create heat when cold comes from the windows. The water heated floor system, which is based on a gas boiler, is as follows:

• Natural gas supply pipe.
• Water supply pipe.
• Heating system supply line in two directions.
• Collector.
• Two directions for water heated floors.

Arrangement technology

Installation of the heating system is possible only after the necessary preparation of the base. This is done to create an ideal floor by restoring or replacing it. This stage includes important points:

• Removing the old coating and dismantling the rough base.
• Removal of all types of insulation.
• Cleaning the surface from contamination.
• Checking structures for stability through inspection. If worn parts of the beams are found, they must be cut out and replaced with a piece of the same size.
• Use of substances to protect against fungus and mold.

It is important to pay attention to the evenness of the base and the presence of protrusions. Do not allow too large differences. If surface defects are more than 2 cm, then leveling must be done by pouring fine crushed stone. This method is suitable for laying a warm water floor under wooden floors.

Installation of a lightweight water floor can be done either with a screed or with a dry floor under tiles or wood. It's important to know that It is better to start installing floors in the room where the boiler is located. One section for installation should not have an area of ​​more than 40 m. Pipes for installation have the ability to deform, so it will not be difficult to give the heating elements any shape. Experts believe that the most effective method of laying in a spiral.

Both plastic and metal-plastic pipes can be used. Often, specialists use polypropylene devices, which are characterized by their stability and tightness.

It is important that these structures are suitable for installation in heating systems. Otherwise, the use of unsuitable devices may result in an ineffective heating circuit. It is important to study the markings on the pipe.

As for the boiler, there is a choice. You can purchase not only gas, but electric or solid fuel. It all depends on the location of the house. The need for a collector system is explained by the fact that it is important for ensuring the operation of the entire water floor and maintaining the set temperature.

Not all boilers have a built-in circulation pump. In such cases, you need to purchase it separately, since without it the water cycle is impossible. It is better to choose a pump that has three speeds. The remaining parts for arranging a warm water floor system are purchased based on the individual characteristics of each device.

How to properly make heating with your own hands?

Preparing the surface by leveling it

This can be done using a concrete screed or special compounds that are sold in construction stores. Next, it is recommended to treat the base using a primer. Do not forget about the insulation, which must be laid on the prepared surface.

Laying thermal insulation

This process is not complicated, you just need to secure the joints with mounting tape. Insulation materials include polystyrene foam and propylene foam insulation. Best thickness 5 cm is considered. In some cases, when laying on the ground or with increased protection from the cold, a thickness of up to 10 cm is allowed.

Pipe laying

A reinforcing mesh is laid out on the base, ensuring complete bonding. The pipes themselves can be installed in the form of a snake or spiral. It all depends on the personal wishes of the owner of the room, but craftsmen believe that a spiral installation scheme is preferable. With the first installation option, uneven heating of the floor is possible. To calculate the installation width, many values ​​are taken into account. These include wall thickness, pipe diameter and other factors. The optimal pipe length is 100 m, since the water cools as it moves away from the beginning of the circulation.

Heating materials can be the most common water pipes, however, their service life will be significantly shorter special devices. There are subtleties of sealing pipes, which consist in the fact that the connection must be made with the help of adapters. If metal-plastic pipes are installed, metal surface must be removed within 3 cm from the beginning of the pipe.

The pipe is attached to the thermal insulation using fasteners. They are necessary to facilitate the installation of the floor and ensure correct placement of the pipe. Fasteners can be plastic or metal elements.

It is important to know that for a warm floor you need to use only a single piece of pipe. In this case, the maximum length of each circuit should reach 100 m. Otherwise, too high a pressure will have to be used for the optimal heat transfer rate.

Preparing and connecting the collector

Installation of this device occurs according to the instructions indicated on the packaging. In each specific case, the installation process will differ due to the fact that there are many different models. Correct location the manifold box must provide equal water pressure in all circuits.

Boiler installation

Often, when connecting a boiler to a heated floor system, a problem is created, which is that the water temperature is several times higher than that required for the operation of a water floor. Therefore, it is important to ensure that water at a lower temperature enters the pipes. This is possible by diluting the already cooled water, which flows in the opposite direction.

The heating structure must go through an assembly process consisting of the following diagram:

• Installation of the control valve.
• Securing the circulation pump.
• Collector installation.
• Ensuring the supply of water at a low temperature.
• Connecting the pipe to the boiler.

If a screed is used, the process occurs under pressure. Mixtures for screed can be cement-sand, concrete or dry.

When using cement and sand, it is best to purchase ready-made products that contain a special plasticizer This element allows you to make the solution plastic, and also increases the level of heating due to thermal conductivity. For concrete composition, it is recommended to purchase cement of a special grade M-300.

Dry materials include sand, various additions to expand heat and to reduce air bubbles. During the last stage of work, it is necessary to take timely measures to prevent cracks. There are two options here:

• When a room is divided into two halves, each of them is poured separately using a special tape. Next, all existing gaps are removed by puttying.

• After the screed has dried, the perimeter of the room is cut out into sectors using a grinder, and the resulting seams are sealed with silicone. Then they must be puttied.

In a structure with a wooden floor, the whole process is much simpler, since it does not require the installation of a screed. It is enough just to cover with boards a special box where the heating pipes are located. Important feature is the correct placement of pipes. The entire structure is located at a level below the boiler. This will promote free heating and cycling through the plastic heating elements.

It is worth considering in more detail the issue of laying a water-heated floor without a screed. There are many advantages here, one of which is the low weight of the structure, as well as the absence of the need to wait for the cement to dry. This is the heating system that can save you a lot of money.. Installation of such a structure requires the use of a base where the pipe contours will be laid. It can be wooden or polystyrene.

There should also be strips of metal that distribute heat evenly. You can install heated floors under both tiles and laminate, but in all cases you need to take care of good heat transfer.

Today, an installation system using gypsum fiber sheets is used. They are placed as a base, fill the gaps between the contours of the pipes, and serve as the top layer for the selected coating. This design can be easily disassembled if repairs are necessary.. Besides, gypsum fiber sheets conduct heat well.

To others possible option To create a water floor without a screed is to use aluminum sheets, which already have sections for laying the pipe circuit. But craftsmen note that gypsum fiber elements are much better in quality. The advantages of such materials are as follows:

• Affordable price.
• Simple processing scheme.
• Safety.

You should not refuse the opportunity to install heated water floors with your own hands, as this system will make life much easier by creating comfortable living conditions and saving money on the purchase of energy.

Competently set heat it is possible to do it in your home without the expensive services of specialists. It is enough just to know the necessary subtleties of this process and choose the right heating equipment.