Rough ceiling on wooden beams: design options. How to make a rough ceiling Wooden rough ceilings

A full draft ceiling is solid foundation, on which the finishing is subsequently formed. In brick and concrete houses floor slabs serve as such a basis; in wooden buildings, the boundaries between floors are formed by beams sheathed with a “pie” of insulating materials. If you have a set of tools and basic experience in handling wood, putty, and primer, all work can be done on your own.

In order to correctly file a rough ceiling, it is important to understand what exactly it consists of. interfloor covering. Each layer plays its own role:

  1. A plank floor is a finishing or intermediate finishing option for a room located above (using the example of a two-story wooden building).
  2. Vapor barrier. Necessary to protect floors from excessive circulation of moist air.
  3. The insulation eliminates cold penetration points from unheated areas.
  4. Waterproofing prevents the destruction of wood due to harmful contact with moisture.
  5. Rough ceiling wooden beams completes the installation of the ceiling and serves as a support for all intermediate fillers.

Typically, finishing comes down to installing layers of plasterboard assembled on a metal sheathing. This is one of budget solutions, in demand among owners of country houses.

Review of materials and tools

To file a rough ceiling, you will need boards 25 mm thick; they are fixed with nails or screws 45-55 mm long. There are no strict requirements for the appearance of the material, since it will be hidden under a layer finishing cladding. It is important that the raw material as a whole is strong and smooth.

As an alternative, you can use plywood; it is attached to a frame made of bars and slats. It is more convenient to work with the board because it does not require preliminary assembly of the sheathing.

Minimum set of tools:

  • hammer,
  • stapler,
  • jigsaw,
  • screwdriver

An economical method of insulation is the use of sawdust and mineral wool in a 1:1 ratio. First, sawdust is poured in and covered with mineral wool.

Installation of a rough ceiling made of boards

The work comes down to performing two tasks:

  1. It is necessary to sheathe the logs with boards. The material is fixed using self-tapping screws or nails; the quality of the final result is identical in both cases.
  2. The wood is covered with layers of heat and waterproofing.

When preparing raw materials, it is important to clearly check the dimensions of the boards. If you are careless about adjusting the dimensions, cracks and gaps may form in the ceiling. The better this stage is completed, the more reliable and durable it will be. finished design.

The option with boards nailed to the underside of the joists is distinguished by its rationality and ease of execution; it requires minimum costs time and resources. But such a solution also has weak side– the ceiling will hide the beams; when there is a need for quick access to them, such manipulations will be difficult to carry out.

Therefore, a more complicated solution is practiced when the boards do not cover the beams:

  • the first step is to fix the cranial bars on the logs;
  • boards are mounted on top;
  • layers of steam and thermal insulation materials can be placed both under and above the boards.

This option is very popular in conditions where beams act as central decorative elements, they are left in sight after finishing the floor. The result is a textured interior in the style of Provence or a mountain house, stylish and practical at the same time.

How to make a rough ceiling from plywood?

The key component here is the sheathing - a frame made of guides, that is, wooden beams and slats. When laying out plywood, you need to carefully ensure that the sheets do not form gaps and fit as tightly as possible to each other.


Installation sequence:

  1. The logs are lined with a vapor barrier membrane.
  2. Next, assemble the sheathing and fix the plywood on it.
  3. During installation of the rough cladding, the frame cells are filled with thermal insulation material.

After assembling the rough ceiling using wooden beams, you can begin finishing. It is important to use heat and waterproofing measures here.

Rough ceiling on concrete slabs

It's rare to find perfect smooth slabs ceilings, distortions are especially typical for buildings commissioned 20-30 years ago. With time concrete structures sag, deform, if several sections were used to construct the ceiling, you can notice the differences in height with the naked eye. A rough ceiling in a private house of this type allows you to achieve a uniform surface adapted for finishing.

Preparatory measures must be taken:

  • remove the remnants of the old finish, if present, clean the surface of wallpaper, plaster, paint. Particular attention should be paid to the seams between the walls and ceiling tiles, after preparation they are smoothed with cement mortar;
  • gaps between panels are filled polyurethane foam, sealant;
  • Ceiling tiles are primed evenly; to improve quality, 2-3 layers can be applied, successively allowing them to dry.

After 24 hours, you can proceed directly to the rough ceiling:

  • Self-tapping screws and plastic dowels can be used as beacons. The accuracy of setting landmarks is controlled using a building level;
  • To apply the starting layer of putty, a wide spatula is also convenient. It is customary to select a working tool in accordance with the initial curvature of the base surface;
  • A liquid primer is applied to the dried layer.

Specifics of assembling hydro-, heat- and vapor barriers

In the construction of a draft ceiling, materials are used that have the following characteristics:

  • low thermal conductivity,
  • low dead weight,
  • fire safety,
  • high levels of noise insulation.

Insulation materials can be polymer, organic, combined, or inorganic. The former are attractive due to their high strength and relative lightness; they are sold in the budget price segment.

Polymer substances - polyurethane foam, polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam - cannot withstand temperature fluctuations, they are a fire hazard.


Organic insulation materials, such as straw and sawdust, peat, are affordable and environmentally friendly. But there are also disadvantages - rapid ignition, gradual decrease in thermal insulation performance.

Inorganic variations can only be used in floors with reinforced wooden beams and continuous lining. This category includes perlite, mineral wool, expanded clay, and vermiculite. Mineral wool is most convenient to use - it is not as heavy as other representatives of the segment and exhibits optimal consumer properties.

Insulation is carried out from above or below, depending on whether the upper level is supplemented with flooring.


Installation sequence if flooring is not provided:

  1. Laying vapor barrier in the form of a special membrane film. The material is spread on the ceiling, tightly fixed with a construction stapler. The membrane should ideally follow the contours of the beams and rough filing.
  2. The insulation is laid out so that the final surface is level with the level of the beams.
  3. A waterproofing film is spread on top.

If there is flooring, insulating the ceiling from above becomes impossible; in such conditions, work is carried out directly in the living room:

  1. Beams and flooring are covered with waterproofing.
  2. Nails are driven into the beams to stretch the string in a zigzag pattern - this is the basis for layers of insulation, placed so that the rope holds them.
  3. Next, the vapor barrier is fixed.

After completing the formation of the draft ceiling, proceed to finishing. Materials are selected in accordance with the priority style of residential premises, usually plasterboard, plastic panels, lining or rack structures, tension fabrics. A separate niche is occupied by interiors in which the beams remain open, in which case the wood is thoroughly impregnated protective compounds that need regular updating.

Good implementation of ceilings in a wooden house is not limited to their design in accordance with the chosen style. Nice ceiling is a complex multi-component system that retains heat and ensures natural air exchange in the room. Therefore, if you decide to make ceilings in a wooden house with your own hands, you need to approach their installation with close attention.

The structure of the ceiling in a wooden house can be divided into two components - the rough ceiling and the finishing one. The first serves for insulation and sound insulation, and the second has a decorative function. As a rule, both ceilings are separated as much as possible to eliminate influence on each other.

IN general case the ceiling design is like a layer cake, consisting of the following layers:

  • finishing ceiling;
  • rough filing;
  • vapor barrier;
  • thermal insulation (in most cases it also plays the role of sound insulation);
  • waterproofing;
  • flooring.

However there are some differences in implementation ceilings, which depend on temperature regime in delimited areas. So, if the ceiling is made between two floors, which will be equally heated, then a vapor barrier is not needed; it will be enough to treat the rough ceiling with an antiseptic so as not to prevent rotting and mold. You can also not install thermal insulation, since there will be no temperature difference. It’s another matter if the ceiling borders on an unheated attic or summer attic. In this case, the entire range of work is required.

Making a rough ceiling

It is not difficult to make a rough ceiling in a wooden house with your own hands. Essentially, this is a binder made of boards, OSB sheets or plywood.

As an example, let's consider making a rough frame from boards. For this you will need:

  • edged or tongue-and-groove boards 25 mm thick (you should choose wood coniferous species);
  • nails 70 mm long.

The progress of work is as follows:

  • is selected required amount boards that are cut to the required size;
  • the board is fixed to each floor beam with at least two nails “in space”, i.e. the nail is driven in at an angle of approximately 45 degrees towards its edge;

  • tongue and groove boards are attached to the beams with a groove from the wall;
  • All wooden elements covered with antiseptic and fireproof impregnation.

Now, even if gaps appear between the boards in the future, this will not affect the thermal insulation, since the insulation serves the function of retaining heat in the house.

Ceiling insulation

You can insulate the ceiling in a wooden house with your own hands in two ways - from above and from below. It depends on the availability of flooring on upper level. But first it is necessary to say a few words about the choice of insulation.

Any insulation must be lightweight, fireproof, not harmful to health, and have low thermal conductivity. Besides, great importance has soundproofing properties of the material. The whole variety of insulating materials can be divided into organic, inorganic, polymer and combined. Each species has its own characteristics that can affect further choice thermal insulator.

Organic materials - sawdust, peat, straw and their cement mixtures. They are cheap and environmentally friendly, but are easily flammable and reduce their thermal insulation properties over time.

Polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and polyurethane foam are the most widely used polymer insulation materials. These materials are also low cost, lightweight and quite durable. At the same time, they are destroyed by temperature changes, are fire hazardous and are often damaged by rodents.

Inorganic insulation materials include vermiculite, perlite and expanded clay. They are distinguished by relatively low thermal insulation qualities and high weight, so the use of these materials is appropriate where the ceiling is made of reinforced beams with continuous lining.

Inorganic insulation also includes mineral wool, which, due to its high consumer properties, has received the greatest preference among specialists.

Ceiling insulation from above

If there is no flooring in the attic, then insulating the ceiling in a wooden house with your own hands is most conveniently done from its side. To do this, you need to perform the following sequence of work:

  • vapor barrier is being installed. The film is laid out over the entire area of ​​the ceiling so that it fits snugly against the rough filing and beams. The overlap on the walls must be at least 10 cm. The vapor barrier is fixed using a stapler or slats;

  • the selected insulation is laid flush with ceiling beams. If mineral wool is laid in several layers, then upper layer should overlap the joints of the previous one. When laying polystyrene foam, a gap of 1 cm is left between the plates, which is then blown in with polyurethane foam;
  • the insulation and beams are covered on top waterproofing film or glassine.

Note! If a chimney passes through the attic, then the spaces near it must be insulated non-flammable material. For this purpose, a slab made from a mixture of clay (4 parts), sawdust (1 part), cement (0.3 parts) and water (2-2.5 parts) is suitable.

In the same way, the ceiling in a wooden house is insulated with your own hands (a video example is given below) with bulk materials: sawdust or expanded clay. The peculiarity of this option is that the thermal insulation layer must be well compacted. He shouldn't miss.

Insulation of the ceiling from inside the room

If it is not possible to carry out work from above, then you can insulate the ceiling in a wooden house with your own hands (photo shown below) from the side of the living room.

The insulation process has the following sequence:

  • waterproofing is attached to the beams and flooring;
  • nails are driven into the beams, onto which a string is pulled in a zigzag pattern;
  • Insulation is placed in the space between the beams so that the threads hold the material. To do this, after laying several layers of thermal insulation, the nails are driven in completely with the heads recessed;
  • vapor barrier is fixed.

Now the ceiling can be covered with plasterboard or other material.

The same insulation method can be used when repairing the ceiling in a wooden house with your own hands. To do this, you need to remove the damaged material from the ceiling. decorative coating, dismantle the rough ceiling and perform the sequence of work described above.

Ceiling finishing

The finishing can be done with any suitable material. Therefore, let's consider The most simple and common design techniques:

I. Application of drywall. The peculiarity of this finish is that the gypsum plasterboard ceiling does not tolerate deformations that occur due to the fact that the wood “breathes”. To avoid this, a two-tier frame is made. First, load-bearing profiles are mounted to the floor beams using special quick hangers, which provide a certain amount of play.

Next, the second tier of supporting profiles is attached to the first row. For this purpose, two-level CD connectors are used, which also ensure that the profiles are offset relative to each other. The second row of profiles is tied to the walls through a special damper tape.

Thus, a movable frame is obtained, the lower plane of which remains stationary, and the upper plane can move up and down by 3-4 mm.

Drywall sheets are attached to the frame and processed in the usual way.

II.Stretch ceiling can be installed immediately after the house is built. To use them, there is no need to wait for the building to shrink, since they are well adapted to compensate for the resulting deformations.

III. Slatted ceilings, lining or cards made of natural wood are attached to the rough ceiling using wooden sheathing with a step corresponding to the material used.

List possible options Finishing the ceiling can be continued, since there are no restrictions in the choice of materials used. The main thing is that the end result matches the intended style of the room.

Ceiling decoration in a wooden house can be done different ways. A large number of options that are not available for an apartment will look very appropriate and harmonious in a private house. And this is due to the fact that the ceilings here are often higher than in apartments, and also due to the configuration of the roofs, they can have original shapes, which allows you to develop your own unusual design.









Independent work Ceiling cladding in a wooden house requires certain knowledge and skills. The specifics of the work will depend on the type of ceiling. Yes, hemmed beam ceiling consists of boards hemmed between beams, between which insulation is laid, and covered with boards or plywood on top. The continuous sloping ceiling is made of logs. This design requires preliminary production of the sheathing.


Wood finishing

The best option for wooden house, since this material is environmentally friendly, which allows you to save indoors favorable microclimate. Wood cladding between the beams can be made of several types - from budget lining to noble expensive solid wood. Alternatively, you can use a combination of materials, then the ceiling will be original and unique.







Ceilings in a wooden house are also trimmed with plywood. But no less popular is finishing from lumber - beech, oak, cherry, beech, ash, maple, birch, alder. Coniferous species include spruce, cedar, pine, larch, cedar, and fir. They differ in texture, shade, pattern. When choosing lumber, it is important to consider the humidity level; no more than 16% is allowed.






Lining

Lining is a board processed in a special way with a tongue and groove to simplify installation. Eurolining, unlike conventional lining, has more high quality and lock design. The peculiarity of the lining is durability, strength, good sound insulation. Due to its naturalness, the ceiling surface always “breathes,” and the attractive price of such material makes it accessible to everyone.



Design options may be as follows:

  • clapboard cladding in one direction is best used for small rooms; in a large room it will look boring and monotonous;
  • if the lining is laid between the beams, its shade and direction of cladding can be changed, thus dividing the space into zones;


  • The continuous surface of the lining ceiling can be decorated with carvings or paintings. This solution looks very elegant and resembles colorful old houses.

Plywood

Although plywood is not often used to decorate the ceiling, it can be used to create interesting design, having decorated the house effectively without extra costs. Plywood is distinguished by the number of glued layers and by such indicators as:

  • grade – construction plywood of one of 5 grades is used for cladding;
  • moisture resistance - this parameter is especially important during the period when the house is not heated. Coating plywood with laminate increases moisture resistance;
  • type of wood - for the top layer of plywood, maple, birch, and alder are most often used, and the middle layers are most often made from coniferous trees;
  • processing method – for country house Untreated plywood is quite suitable; for a cottage it is better to use plywood sanded on one side. Double-sided sanding is not necessary;
  • appearance– the decorative component of plywood can be made of asbestos paper, plastic, decorated with a pattern or imitation of wood.


To cover the ceiling with plywood, you must immediately construct a sheathing of wooden beams or aluminum profile. You can fasten the plywood to the beams using self-tapping screws or nails, and then seal the joints with decorative strips or putty.

Plywood – practical and inexpensive material, which is perfect for cladding the ceiling in a private house. Using plywood you can create individual design any room or attic.


Veneered panels

Veneered panels are the same wood planks, only covered with veneer to create decorative effect. After all, veneer copes quite successfully with imitation of any type of wood, and here it’s all a matter of your taste. The price of the panels is slightly higher than the cost of the lining, but the cladding options are much more varied.

A significant advantage of the material is ease of installation. Every owner can install veneer panels, even without the appropriate skills and experience. Uncomplicated installation is carried out due to lock connection panels. Thus, to make a ceiling, you will need a minimum of tools and time.



Wood massif

Perhaps the most prestigious type of finishing using wood is natural wood in the form practical panels. Main properties of the material:

  • strength and durability;
  • high quality - depends directly on the type of wood itself;
  • luxurious appearance;
  • lightweight and quick installation, which you can do yourself, thanks to special built-in locks.

Such panels are made from hardwood trees that meet certain characteristics.




Plaster

Finishing the ceiling of a wooden house with plaster was previously very popular. Although today it is often found in modern cottages, it is still slowly becoming a thing of the past, because the range of materials has become much wider.

The plaster is applied to a mesh of shingles, previously stuffed between the beams. The durability and strength of the coating is ensured by reliable adhesion of the mortar to the shingles and relief mesh. It is impossible to plaster the ceiling yourself without certain skills and knowledge. This is a rather labor-intensive and complex process that requires the hands of a professional.


Advantages of plaster:

  • attractiveness, rich colors and the ability to create a variety of relief on the surface;
  • practicality and durability;
  • affordable price of both the material itself and plastering services. Do-it-yourself work will also not require large financial outlays.


The only inconvenience of such finishing in a wooden house is the need for thermal insulation of the walls, which is carried out from inside the room. Thermal insulation boards are good basis for further installation of reinforcing mesh. However, this technology hides valuable area, which is very undesirable if it is already not very large.

Drywall

Plasterboard panels – universal material for finishing any surfaces. Using drywall you can create individual project with amazing design. Possible option two-level ceiling and other intricate designs.





Drywall is mounted on wooden or metal carcass, can later be painted, pasted over ceiling tiles or wallpaper. It is also possible to install false beams on the slabs and mount Spotlights. Gypsum stucco looks impressive and goes well with the plasterboard surface.

Stretch ceiling

Suitable for installation in wooden houses. The only thing here that needs to be taken into account is that the tension fabric is not installed immediately after the house is built, but at least after a couple of years, since every house shrinks. The fabric is stretched under the beams, due to which the height of the room may decrease. Stretch ceilings go well with plasterboard in multi-level structures, and a real professional can create a truly great design, and your interior will become unique.






Plastic panels

Covering the ceiling with plastic panels in a wooden house is quite simple. The smooth surface of the rough ceiling allows you to attach plastic panels without additional sheathing. Otherwise, you will need lathing, for example, from wooden beam or metal profile.


Important! Lack of everyone artificial materials The problem is that they do not allow air to pass through, which is why mold may appear under the panels. Therefore it is best to use natural materials for a wooden house.

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A rough ceiling on wooden beams is the basis for forming a layer of hydro-, thermal insulation, filing, widely used, as a rule, in private and country houses. In apartments, the use of this method is irrelevant, since they have a concrete ceiling, and wooden beams are a decorative element.
All the nuances regarding the rough ceiling on wooden beams will be discussed in this article.

How to hem a rough ceiling in a wooden house

This process can be carried out using almost any starting material. The simplest and effective option- lining. If you want the smell of wood to linger in the room, then you should line the ceiling with planed boards.
When asking the question “How to hem a ceiling along wooden beams,” you can additional options consider plywood, plastic, chipboard, and resin-free materials are best used in bath rooms.


There are 2 ways to carry out this process.

First way

Hemming the ceiling with boards on wooden beams is carried out after thermal insulation and condensation has formed. The insulation is fixed between the beams. The most the best option Mineral wool is considered to play this role.
After that wooden blocks They are attached to the beams using nails.
Then the flooring is formed from the boards. To do this, they (the boards) are adjusted to a certain size with a slight offset of a few millimeters. And only after this the rough ceiling is hemmed along wooden beams. The boards must be fixed as closely as possible to each other or at a distance that does not exceed 30-40 cm.
If in the future the wooden ceiling is treated with heavy clay with an antique imitation, then the slats should be connected using the checkerboard method.
After this, the completed rough ceiling can be taken as a basis and the main construction processes can be carried out. For example, forming a suspended ceiling.

Second way

For implementation this method Two people are required.
The boards do not need to be adjusted or cut in any way; they are all placed immediately under the joists, on the side of the building. The distance from the wall and the beam placed on it should be 50 mm, then the boards are secured together with a metal plate. A wooden strip (mauerlat) is laid under them, and roofing material is fixed under it on three sides with strips. On the fourth side, materials are supplied, so here the installation of a beam with a wooden strip is carried out at the very end.
The result of any of the two methods will be a structure where a small hole will remain at the edge. To remove it, you need to use a wooden strip required length and fix it to the beam.


It is very important to remember that the installation of a sub-ceiling is made taking into account certain details that allow you to save the original ceiling timber, wood and speed up the installation process:

  • It is necessary to select boards according to the length of the room so that there is no waste
  • It's better to put everything out at once wooden slats To external wall, from where it will be convenient for one person to supply this material to another, who lays it from the inside of the building on the opposite wall
  • After the necessary correction, the slats can be fixed to the beams using two self-tapping screws so that they (the slats) can hold a person. This speeds up the process, since one performer can feed while the other fixes the timber.
  • if the rail is less than the declared length, then it is cut with a jigsaw at the level of the last beam
  • if the rail is longer than necessary, then it is not fixed to the outer beam
  • there is no point in thermal insulation of a draft ceiling if there is a heated room above
  • When forming a vapor barrier, you should especially focus on the corners, thereby preventing the appearance of rot and mold. In places where the lamps are fixed, it is better to hem heat-reflecting foil measuring 20x20 cm in advance.
  • installation of insulation must be carried out in full accordance with the instructions; it is necessary to take into account the location of the built-in light sources in advance. It is safest to pre-cut holes around them with a diameter of 20 cm to prevent the possibility of the insulation catching fire from a heat source

It is likely that those who spend the first time this process, questions may arise. They can be sent in the form of a consultation to a competent specialist who can explain and explain the incomprehensible aspects of the repair process. Sometimes this is even necessary, since only an outside professional look from the outside will help take everything into account important nuances created interior and style.
In order to select source materials whose quality there will be no doubt, you need to analyze existing customer reviews in advance or send this question to a knowledgeable specialist.
This article allows you to understand how to make a rough ceiling yourself, without resorting to outside help. By following all the instructions, you can prepare a sufficiently high quality wooden base, on which in the future it will be possible to form any ceiling in a private house, adding a unique design to it.

Upon completion of the main work related to the construction country house, its walls and ceiling have an unfinished look and need preliminary preparation for their subsequent finishing. Regarding preparation, it should be said that the technique of its arrangement is individual for different categories of residential buildings and should be considered separately for each of the possible options for building structures.

Based on the foregoing, it follows that before making such a ceiling , you must first become familiar with the technique of its manufacture for various types structures, such as permanent buildings with concrete floors or buildings with wooden beams.

In addition, one should take into account the fact that the order of arrangement of any structures also depends on the material used as decorative finishing.

Preparing the concrete floor

When conducting overhaul old housing (and often when preparing a new house), first of all, the surface should be cleaned of foreign deposits down to concrete slabs. In this case, all irregularities on the surface of these plates are removed with a spatula, and the seams formed at the places where they are joined are also cleared. Ceilings in old houses are first washed away from whitewash or cleared of paint layers.

IN in some cases you have to completely remove the worn-out layer of plaster, but in any case you will have to get a relatively flat surface on which you can subsequently apply or install a decorative coating of the type you have chosen.

All subsequent preparatory operations are carried out, as a rule, in the following order:

  • first of all, the previously cleared joints of the slabs are sealed, which is necessary for reliable soundproofing of the room;
  • after this, the surface of these slabs is covered with a layer of primer, and then leveled with starting putty, eliminating all minor irregularities on it;
  • at the final stage preparatory work the surface is processed finishing putty, after which it is thoroughly cleaned with abrasive sandpaper.

Arrangement of wooden floors

Preparing a rough ceiling yourself in a house with wooden floors is not particularly difficult. All work on its arrangement is usually carried out in the following sequence:

  • first of all, the load-bearing beams are covered from the side of the room with glassine or plastic film used as a vapor barrier (they are attached to the beams using a stapler);
  • immediately after this, the beams are hemmed with any material suitable for these purposes ( edged board, For example);
  • after that, a layer of thermal insulation is laid in the space between the beams, the function of which can be performed by slabs of mineral wool or foam plastic;
  • another layer is placed on top of the insulation polyethylene film, used as waterproofing (laid with an overlap of about 20 cm).

On final stage installation work, pre-prepared logs are laid directly on the beams, and then laid flooring attic.

Note that filing along wooden beams, as well as forming multi-layer cake ceilings are made taking into account the purpose attic space. Small design deviations from the above diagram will be observed if it is used as an attic, for example, or when arranging a so-called “cold” attic.

But in any case of using the under-roof space, the sheathing boards are attached to the joists using long nails driven “into the spacer” and with a minimum gap.

Various designs of ceilings in this case can be reduced to the following options:


Alternative option for wooden flooring

It is known that the height of ceilings in wooden houses is usually not enough for the living conditions in them to be considered normal. In such a situation, hemming along the bottom of wooden beams seems uneconomical in terms of using the floor structure to increase living space.

In this case, it is considered quite acceptable to hem the boards not from below, but along the top of the beams using special sheathing. Similar solution, of course, will radically change the appearance through the use of exposed beams as design elements of the room.

Video

More details about the ceiling structure in the video:



 
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