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Application of MDF panels for walls. Installing MDF panels on walls: do-it-yourself installation and lathing Assembly of MDF wall panels

• Preparing for work
• How to install the panels?
• Frame making
• Panel installation

MDF panels have many positive properties, thanks to which they are becoming increasingly popular and widespread. Among others - low cost and environmental friendliness. Almost anyone can install these panels themselves. It's pretty simple work, which requires only sufficient care. You can decorate walls using MDF panels without having any special professional skills in repair or woodworking.

Diagram of fittings for plastic panels.

What are MDF panels for walls?

Wood processing industry waste is used to produce MDF. However, they differ significantly from fiberboard and chipboard both in their manufacturing method and in their characteristics. No binders are used in their production; the production technology is based on the method of hot and dry pressing of wood. The use of this processing method ensures that the fibers and lignin tubes that make up the wood are exposed to high temperature and pressures are interlocked due to the resulting plasticity. In its structure, MDF resembles a kind of wood felt.

with their own mechanical properties MDF is inferior to most similar materials, their trump card is environmental friendliness, which is achieved by refusing to use binders chemical substances during their manufacture. This perfect material For interior decoration. When working with this material, you must adhere to the same rules as when working with wood. To glue MDF panels, the same glue is used as for wood. However, liquid nails are an adhesive specifically developed for MDF. This glue contains sawdust, due to which it can be used not only for gluing, but also for puttying various defects, such as cracks. In addition, this glue can be used to seal the heads of self-tapping screws.

When purchasing materials, pay attention to the color matching of the glue and decorative finishing MDF panels. Otherwise the glue may damage appearance finishing.

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Preparing for work

Installation diagram of MDF panels.

Installation of panels is carried out mainly using ordinary household tools that are found in every home. From specific devices you will need a plumb line, which you can make yourself. To do this, simply tie a fishing line or strong thread tightly around the nut. In addition, stock up on a building level, a tape measure and a drill attachment that allows you to screw in self-tapping screws. You will need the latter if you do not have a special screwdriver. You may need a metal square with sides of different thicknesses, also called a bench square. You will need it to simplify the cutting of panels for the design of slopes. It is used like this: the cut is made based on a leg of smaller thickness, and a thicker leg is used as a stop.

You can cut the panels electric jigsaw or a hand-held circular saw. If you have to buy these tools, then keep in mind that the cost of a saw with a cutting depth of 12 mm is significantly higher than the cost of a jigsaw. However, you should also consider the versatility of the saw. When replacing blades, it can be used to cut a wide variety of materials. In addition, the saw is compact and easy to use.

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How to install the panels?

Before installing MDF wall panels, they must be calculated and purchased in required quantity. Determining how much material is needed is quite simple. To do this, it is enough to calculate the surface area that will be covered and add 15% in reserve.

Installation diagram suspended ceiling from PVC panels.

Inspect the room before starting work. If it has ever become damp, the wall covering is swollen or cracked, the plaster has noticeable unevenness, or the thickness of the plaster layer is less than 1.2 cm, then careful surface preparation is necessary. To do this, you need to completely clean the main wall of plaster and remove the baseboards.

There are 2 ways to install MDF. The first involves the installation of a sheathing on which the panels will be attached, and the second will require special galvanized profiles.

Installing wooden sheathing is easier than installing profiles.

Scheme of additional profiles.

It will require less hardware for fastening, but its cost is higher than the cost of profiles. When making wooden sheathing, slats or slabs must be soaked in a special antifungal composition, and also treated with materials that will protect them from rot and mold.

It is not recommended to use the lathing in brick houses and in damp areas, since ideal conditions are created for pests in the space between the wall and the cladding. You won't notice that the finish is damaged until mold or mildew appears, and when this happens, it will have already spread widely. Harmful particles can penetrate the sheathing through the pores of the brick.

To make a metal frame, you will need U-shaped profiles: guides and regular ones (UD and CD, respectively). The main difference between them is the cross-sectional configuration.

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Frame making

Dowels or self-tapping screws are used to attach the wooden sheathing to the wall. For metal sheathing, only self-tapping screws are used. The diameter of the fastener should be from 4 to 6 mm, depending on the strength of the base wall: the stronger, the smaller the diameter. The fastening element must be driven into base wall by at least 3 cm. That is, if the thickness of the MDF panel is 1.6 cm, the thickness of the lathing element is 4 cm, and a 1.2 cm layer of plaster is applied to the wall, then it is permissible to use self-tapping screws or dowels with a length of at least 10 cm.

Installation of wooden sheathing begins with installation vertical racks. They are placed in each corner in pairs, so that an angle is formed between them. Also, vertical racks are located on the sides of door and window openings for the entire height of the room. They must be positioned strictly vertically. You can check this with a plumb line.

First, the place for fastening the racks is marked on the wall with a pencil, then in it and in the wall, places are marked for making holes for fasteners that correspond to each other. The distance between the holes should be from 50 to 70 cm. Next, the racks are fastened with screws or dowels. Horizontal sheathing elements are installed in the same way.

Lathing made of metal profiles is made according to the same principle as wood. UD profiles are installed vertically, and CD profiles are installed horizontally. It is best to cut profiles into the required length elements with a circular saw or a small grinder.

Attaching MDF panels to the wall is a process that is not difficult if you know all the features of the technology. I'll tell you how to cope with work with minimal costs time and money, both options have been repeatedly tested by me in practice, which allows me to confidently say that fastening MDF is within the capabilities of any developer. It is important to follow all the recommendations outlined below and have a set of necessary tools and equipment on hand.

Panel fastening methods

Let's look at what methods there are for attaching MDF panels to the wall, there are only two of them:

• Sheathing device, which can be either wooden or metal; below we will analyze both options;
• Gluing panels- it’s important to choose high-quality composition and properly prepare the base.

If you don’t know which option to choose, then you need to familiarize yourself with the advantages of each solution:

• When constructing the sheathing, the condition of the walls and their plane do not matter at all, because you will be constructing one, which will determine the position of the future surface;
• For wet areas a frame made of a metal profile is more suitable, since it does not change its parameters due to changes in humidity and is damaged much more slowly by water;
• If it is necessary to lay insulation under the finishing, then the sheathing will become ideal option design, it is very convenient to put any heat-insulating material under it;

• Gluing is ideal for areas where you want to save as much space as possible. The elements are glued directly to the wall, and such finishing does not reduce usable area. In this case, the surface state has great importance– You can’t glue panels anywhere.

Method No. 1 - construction of sheathing

Let's figure out how to fix MDF panels to the wall using a special frame, which is made either from wood or from a profile. Let's start by considering a more budget-friendly and available option using a wooden block.

The workflow looks like this:

• First of all, you need to buy a block from which the sheathing will be constructed; most often, a pine version with a cross-section of at least 30x30 mm is used, since the structure must be durable. When choosing a specific option, pay attention to such indicators as humidity (it should not be higher than 15%) and geometric parameters - the elements should be smooth, deformations should not exceed a few millimeters per linear meter;
• Then you need to treat the wood with a fire-retardant compound. This is necessary in order to prevent damage to the material by mold and woodworm, as well as to increase the resistance of the bar to fire. The work is done using a simple brush; all the features of the process will be indicated by the instructions, which are necessarily present on the packaging;

• Next, you need to take measurements using a tape measure; the length of the bars should be a few millimeters less than the distance between the walls or from floor to ceiling, otherwise you will have to squeeze the elements in. It is important not to confuse anything, so as not to spoil the material, and this often happens if measurements are taken carelessly;

Important!
If the MDF panels are placed horizontally, then the sheathing should be vertical.
And vice versa - for the vertical arrangement of panels you need to make a horizontal frame.
You must know in advance how the finishing will be done.

• The dimensions are carefully marked on the block, after which the elements are cut into pieces of the required length. When cutting, pay special attention to the correct positioning of the hacksaw; it should be positioned perpendicular to the block; often inexperienced craftsmen cut the material at random and all the ends are crooked;

• The bars are fastened either using dowels quick installation(when you have concrete or brick base), or using self-tapping screws (if you have wood walls). When working, constantly monitor the position of the elements so that the plane is level. It is best to check both each individual block and several already fixed racks, and do this in different positions of the level to ensure that no mistakes are made;

• If you decide to additionally insulate the surface, this should be done after constructing the frame. For work, it is best to use rolled mineral wool, which is easy to cut and very convenient to work with, just fill the space with it so that it stands tightly, after which you can proceed to the next stage of work;

• Fastening panels can be done in three ways, and the first of them is the use of clamps, as they are called special fasteners, which is a staple. The second option is thin 3x20 mm self-tapping screws, which are screwed into a groove or tenon, and the third is thin finishing nails with a reduced head. Choose the solution that is most convenient for you personally, for me it’s easiest to use carnations, the work goes much faster with them;

• Lastly, the internal and external corners and connecting strips, if any, are attached. The easiest way is to glue these elements, even small finishing studs will be visible, and with the help of glue you can achieve the perfect appearance.

As for the option with a metal frame, it is suitable for rooms with changes in humidity, since the galvanized profile perfectly withstands adverse influences and does not deform over time.

Let's figure out how to attach MDF wall panels to a structure made of metal profiles:

• First you need to purchase the required number of main and wall profiles. Wall elements are placed around the perimeter and determine the plane of the future surface, and the main ones carry the load and support the entire structure;
• The work begins with attaching the wall profile; for this, a line is drawn along the perimeter and the elements are fastened to the walls, floor and ceiling. For work, either dowels or self-tapping screws are used, it all depends on the bases on which the installation is carried out;

• Then lines are marked along which the main profile will be located; it should stand at a distance of 40-50 cm. Direct hangers are attached along the lines, which will help level the surface, as well as strengthen it and make it resistant to loads. With the help of these elements, the alignment process will take place very quickly and very efficiently;

• Next, the main profiles are inserted into the resulting structure; the direction of the lathing depends on how the final covering will be positioned; we discussed this aspect above. The profiles are fastened to each other using small self-tapping screws, which among builders are called bugs or seeds;
• The hangers are bent to the profile, after which the level is determined correct position, in which the elements are fastened. The excess ends are simply bent outward so that they do not interfere with carrying out further work, cutting off all the ends does not make sense, and this process takes too much time;

• Let's figure out how to attach MDF wall panels to a metal frame. For work, clamps are used, which are screwed to the profile using the same seeds - small self-tapping screws. The work is best done using a screwdriver with a magnetic attachment, so you will lose much less fasteners;

• The last stage is the same as in the case of wooden frame: you need to glue everything decorative elements and install baseboards.

Method No. 2 - gluing panels

Fastening MDF panels to a wall without sheathing will be an excellent option where the walls are smooth and the finish on them is reliable, because you will have to glue the elements, and if the base is weak, then they can simply fall off after a certain period of time.

Let's figure out how to do the work yourself; there is nothing complicated in the process, the main thing is to follow a few simple recommendations and use only high quality materials.

The sequence of operations is as follows:

• First you need to check the base for damage and unreliable areas; if any, they need to be repaired. All problems must be eliminated in advance; the better the plane is prepared and the fewer flaws there are, the more attractive the final result will be. Sometimes you have to spend more time leveling the base than on the main work;
• Then the surface is treated with a primer deep penetration. This is necessary in order to strengthen the base and improve the adhesion of the adhesive to the surface. The composition is applied with a roller or brush; it is important to cover the entire wall evenly, but you should not allow smudges;

• Next, the material is prepared - MDF panels, if necessary, the elements are cut into pieces the right size, cutting is done using a hacksaw or jigsaw, it is important to take accurate measurements and carefully cut the slabs;
• WITH reverse side applied adhesive composition, you can make dots on the surface, you can apply a rim around the perimeter and dots in the middle, the main thing is that there are many places for gluing;

• The element is carefully pressed against the wall and fixed in this position for a few seconds. Work continues until the entire surface is covered;
• Lastly, the corners and connecting strips are glued; for this, the same composition is used as for the main coating. Liquid nails are most often used - their price is affordable, and their quality meets the highest standards.

Important!
Sometimes a combined method is used, when MDF panels are glued to a wooden sheathing.
This option is good when you need to insulate the surface or in cases where it may subsequently be necessary to dismantle the coating.

What you need for work

Naturally, you will need a certain set of tools, I will list what should be on hand without fail:

Hacksaws	If you are gluing panels, you will only need a hacksaw with a fine tooth; a metal version will also work. But if you are making a frame out of wood, then you need another hacksaw with more large size teeth
Measuring tool	First of all, you need to have a tape measure on hand, building level and a pencil for marking. In order for the ends to be perfectly even, you need to additionally purchase a square, which will simplify the work and allow you to draw corners
Screwdriver and hammer drill	If you use self-tapping screws, then you cannot do without this power tool. And to fasten the dowels you need a more powerful option - a hammer drill with a drill of the required diameter
Glue gun	It is needed if you will be gluing elements. The device costs a little, but it’s much more convenient to work with.

If you don’t have the same hammer drill or screwdriver, then there is no point in purchasing them for a couple of hours of work. Borrow an instrument from friends or rent, it will cost much less.

Cut corners from MDF is better not just a hacksaw, but a sharp one construction knife, this way the result will be much better, and the ends will be much neater and smoother, the main thing is that the blade is sharp and rigid and does not bend when pressed.

Conclusion

In my subjective opinion, work on MDF fastening one of the simplest and easiest, you only need to do it once in order to quickly and efficiently finish both walls and ceilings. The video in this article will tell you more information on the topic, and also clearly show some important points of the workflow. If you still have questions, ask them in the comments under the review.

Wooden boards become more and more expensive every year. Not everyone can afford to decorate and furnish a room from natural material. The choice, most often, falls on an inexpensive, practical substitute.

MDF appeared on the building materials market a long time ago and quickly gained popularity. MDF has been going on in Russia for several decades. You don’t have to be a master of the highest order to quickly and inexpensively give a room a new, ennobled look. All you need is precision, accuracy and basic home craftsman skills.

What are MDF?

This construction material It is produced by hot pressing of dry crushed waste from wood processing enterprises. Under the influence of steam, sawdust becomes soft and pliable. The smallest fibers, twisting, are connected to each other even without the intervention of adhesive components. As a result, the structure of the panel becomes similar to felt, but compacted with enormous pressure. What do MDF panels look like visually? The photos used in the article will give you an idea about them.

MDF boards are not distinguished by any super-strong characteristics, but due to the absence of adhesives in their composition, they are completely harmless. The panels can be installed using any wood glue.

Tool used

Of course, you can’t provide everything, but the main tool, which you can’t do without, should be at hand:

1. Roulette. It is better to use a 5-meter specimen.
2. It can be made from a regular harness with a nut attached to the end.
3. Drill attachment. Perfectly replaces a screwdriver.
4. Metal bench square with different legs. It is useful for cutting slopes.
5. A jigsaw or any fine-toothed hacksaw. It is advisable to have two hacksaws - with a transverse and longitudinal cut.
6. A grinder for cutting metal profiles if the frame will be assembled from them. The tool must have a protective casing.
7. The usual tools that every owner should have: a knife, screwdrivers, a pencil or marker, a set of drills, a hammer, small nails (shoe nails).

Preparatory work

Before attaching MDF panels, you will have to do a lot preparatory work. It is necessary for the reliability of the fastener. WITH wooden surfaces everything is clear - here the installation process is much simpler. Difficulties arise with brick walls.

First of all, you need to remove the baseboards. It is better to remove swollen or crumbling plaster completely, down to the base. Hidden defects in the main walls will be immediately noticeable and need to be eliminated.

Installation process

Finishing with MDF panels is carried out in two ways:

1) using glue;

2) installation of a rigid frame.

The frame is assembled from wood or from special MDF (this is made of thin metal).

It is easier and cheaper to make lathing from. Although the entire frame will subsequently need to be treated with a fire-fighting compound. This will also take some time. Wall panels are attached to the slats using clamps (another name is clips). The slats themselves are located perpendicular to the wall panels.

Frame method

So, let's look at how to attach MDF panels. Depending on the size of the boards, the number of rows of slats will be different. In a standard room, where the ceiling height does not exceed 2.5 m, 4-5 runs along the entire wall will be enough. The main thing is that after installation the panels stand tightly and do not “play” after any touch.

The top bar of the frame is attached 15-20 cm below the ceiling. The bottom bar is fixed at the same distance from the floor. The middle frame slats are placed in equal proportions between the outer bars. It is advisable that the distance between the slats does not exceed 50-60 cm. Also, do not forget about fastening the frame around the perimeter around windows and doors.

Where the groove is located on the panel, a clamp is attached. After trying on the upper and lower elements and making sure that the wall board is level, the outer clips are fixed to the planks with self-tapping screws. After this, the remaining fasteners are added - according to the number of frame runs. The next board is inserted with a tenon into the groove of the first panel and is also fixed with clips along all the planks.

Do not forget that the very first panel is rigidly fastened along all the slats with self-tapping screws on the tenon side. The outer board, which is rarely intact, is also tightly attached. All traces of installation are usually hidden behind decorative corners. Great option in this case - MDF profile. He will fit in organically overall design premises.

Glue method

Another way to attach MDF panels requires a perfectly flat and clean wall. The load-bearing surface can be any - plywood, concrete, brick or plasterboard. Panels are often glued using “liquid nails”. This glue is suitable for any surface.

This installation method has serious disadvantages. Dismantling the premises is difficult. The board keeps breaking. To level the wall, you have to clean off the remnants of hardened glue, and this is quite difficult.

Replacing several wall boards with new ones will also entail a lot of problems. The entire remaining wall may rise up, lose all harmony, and, accordingly, its attractive appearance.

Besides, inner part MDF boards are not treated with a moisture-repellent composition, and in case of wetness load-bearing wall The panel will swell over time and begin to warp.

Which way is better?

If the height of the walls is large or you decide to lay MDF panels horizontally along the length of the room, a frame option is better suited. This method also provides for insulation of the walls, however, this will slightly reduce the volume of the room. This method is also useful in cases where there is a large uneven surface.

A room with low ceilings and smooth walls faster and cheaper to “ennoble” glue method. Here the loss in room size will be minimal.

It is worth deciding on the performers of the upcoming work. Installation of MDF panels consists not only of direct installation the boards themselves. Before starting work, you need to decide on the quantity of purchased material and fasteners. We must also remember that there are certain nuances that to an ordinary person, may be unknown to the average person. In the future, finishing walls with MDF panels will take time, proportional to your experience.

Pre-treatment and repair of main walls also require some knowledge and skills. The solution comes naturally - it’s better to entrust the repairs to professionals.

Now you have an idea of ​​how to attach MDF panels. There is nothing tricky or extremely complicated in such work, but the master, of course, will do it both better and faster. However, it all depends on the thickness of the wallet and the amount of experience you have in carrying out such work. The choice is yours.

If your apartment has not been renovated for a long time, and the walls have lost their appearance over many years - best replacement wallpaper or tiles will be MDF panels. They are ideal for interior decoration, as they have an attractive appearance and are made from environmentally friendly materials. pure materials. Besides, high-quality installation panels can be completed by anyone with basic technical and construction skills. Today we will talk about the features of finishing a room with MDF panels and give step by step instructions on installation.

What is MDF

MDF is a panel finishing material obtained from woodworking waste through dry hot pressing of fine chips. When heated, wood releases a substance called lignin, which acts as a glue. The structure of MDF resembles felt made from wood fibers. The main advantage of such panels is their high moisture resistance. As a result, they are often used for covering walls, floors and ceilings in rooms with high air humidity, for example, in a bathroom or toilet. However, due to its attractive appearance, such finishing is often found wide application in halls and offices. Surfaces lined with MDF in the corridor and loggia also look great. Material cost compared to tiles– low, but the walls will be perfectly smooth.

If you decide to install the panels yourself, then first you should prepare necessary tools and materials for work.

What you will need for installation

For a quality finish MDF walls you will need following materials and tools:

• Insulation ( mineral wool, penofol, polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam). We'll look at each type in more detail a little later.
• MDF panels. There are many models that differ in thickness, color and structure, so the choice is yours.
• Slats or galvanized profiles for installing sheathing. Width and thickness – 40 and 20 mm, respectively. The length is selected depending on the size of the wall.
• Self-tapping screws are needed to fasten the panels to the sheathing.
• Kleimers – special elements necessary for fastening the panels to each other and the sheathing. Often available complete with panels.
• A plumb line is a nut or any other small metal object tied to a fishing line or thread.
• Building level.
• Yardstick.
• Pencil or marker.
• Plane.
• Metal corner (metal square). Needed for cutting pieces of panels for slopes.
• An electric jigsaw is used to cut MDF. You can also use a hacksaw or circular saw. The latter, due to its compactness, is very convenient to use. It can cut both wood and metal - simply by changing the complete wheels.
• Hammer drill with concrete drill.
• A screwdriver, drill or screwdriver with a screw attachment.

Toolkit in the photo

Preparing the walls

Preparing walls before installing sheathing

Before you begin facing work, you need to make sure that the room is suitable for installing panels. If strong swelling of wallpaper, drywall, or peeling of plaster is visible on the walls, then you should first clean them of old finishing materials. Also, do not forget about baseboards and decorative corners (if any) used to hide the joints of walls and ceilings.

Helpful advice: It is advisable to remove the old finish completely, that is, up to the main wall. This way you will save on fasteners and reveal hidden surface damage.

When the walls are cleaned, you can proceed directly to installing the sheathing under the MDF panel, but first, let's find out what types of lathing there are.

Types of sheathing

The most popular installation technologies wall panels from MDF today are considered:

1. Wooden sheathing. This design is easy to make and does not require a large number of fastening elements. However, wooden sheathing requires pre-impregnation. special means, in order to prevent the appearance of fungus, rot, and mold. If the room has high humidity, then you should not use wooden sheathing in this case.
2. Lathing made of galvanized profiles. Often, metal structures are used as sheathing for drywall, although they are quite suitable for covering walls with MDF panels. But galvanized profiles are not suitable for forming a frame on the floor due to their low strength. As for the ceiling, a structure made of light metal rather than timber is just right here.

Installation

The installation of lattice structures made of metal and wood has several differences. For example, when using galvanized profiles, they should be fastened only with powerful and long screws. Using dowel nails in this case does not make sense - the tenacity between the profile and the fastener itself will be lost.

Most important point, on which the strength of the fit of the fasteners and the entire structure depends, is the fixation of the body of the self-tapping screw or dowel-nail (with wooden sheathing) at least 35 mm in the wall. For example, if the thickness of the rail or profile is 20 mm, and the MDF panel is 10 mm, then the depth of the groove for the mounting socket and, accordingly, the fasteners should be about 65 mm, or preferably more. The diameter of the fasteners is selected from 4 to 6 mm, depending on the density of the wall. The stronger it is, the smaller the diameter of the screw should be. All fasteners are equipped with a special socket. When drilling a groove, the diameter must be compared with the diameter of the body of the socket, and not its head, otherwise the safety margin will be insufficient.

Installation of a wooden structure

Installation of wooden sheathing

We start with the installation of vertical racks. We install slats in each corner in pairs - so that they form a right angle, as well as along the edges of door and window openings along the entire height of the room. To ensure that the racks take an exactly vertical position, we use a plumb line. Now in order:

1. We apply the strip to the wall and outline it on either side with a pencil or marker.
2. We make holes for fasteners using a hammer drill with a concrete drill. For structural strength, the drilling pitch should be in the range from 0.4 to 0.5 m.
3. We drive the sockets for the fasteners into the holes and make marks of their location on the rack itself.
4. We drill holes in the rail with a diameter slightly smaller than the mounting hole.
5. We install the racks in place using self-tapping screws or dowel nails.
6. We install horizontal bars in the same way. The step remains the same. Don't forget to decorate the slopes with slats.
7. At the end, we remove the ledge elements at the joints of the structure using a plane.

Fastening the metal base

The procedure for installing a structure made of galvanized profiles is completely similar to the above. First, the racks are placed in the corners of the room and in the places of openings for marking the walls. Afterwards, holes are made for fastening and installation of vertical profiles. UD type profiles are used as racks. In the marked places, horizontal profiles of the CD type are inserted into them in accordance with a step of 0.4–0.5 m. Afterwards, the transverse strips are attached to the racks and the wall. Elements between each other metal structure connected using ordinary self-tapping screws. As was said earlier, such a sheathing needs to be attached to the wall only with powerful fasteners (dowel-nails will not work).

Helpful advice: to cut metal profiles, it is recommended to use a grinder or a hand-held circular saw with an appropriate attachment. The efficiency of a jigsaw even with a metal file is much less.

About thermal insulation

Installation of insulation

The installation of the sheathing is complete, but before moving on to the installation of MDF panels, the walls should be insulated. This will allow you to save a lot on heating the room, and also increase its thermal insulation. In addition, insulation additionally prevents the formation of mold, mildew and moisture in the voids of the sheathing. It is recommended to fill the cells in the sheathing with one of the following insulation materials:

• Penofol is a relatively new multilayer insulation material, which consists of polyethylene foam and polished foil with a reflectivity of 97%. It is fireproof, environmentally friendly, has good noise insulation and low vapor permeability.
• Mineral wool. The material has gained great popularity due to its high thermal insulation and moisture resistant properties.
• Styrofoam. Air is the best heat insulator, and this material consists of 98% of it. All this is thanks to the polystyrene granules that are formed in the foam during the production process. The material is different high performance moisture and vapor tightness.
• Extruded polystyrene foam. This type of foam is obtained by melting with extrusion. The seal is not cheap, but it fully justifies its price. The material has excellent thermal insulation, as well as a high compression ratio. Therefore, it is often used to insulate floors.

Installation of this thermal insulation material very simple:

1. Sheets are cut from a roll of insulation in accordance with the cell sizes (lathing pitch).
2. After this they are attached to the wall using construction foam or silicone glue.
3. Protrusions formed polyurethane foam are removed using a utility knife.

After insulating the walls, we move on to the most interesting part - the technology of wall cladding with panels.

Installation of MDF panels

Installation of panels

Laying the product should start from the corner. The installation procedure is as follows:

1. We apply the panel to the corner and check whether it fits tightly to the sheathing. Then we evaluate the evenness of the surface using a building level.
2. If everything is good, from the corner side along the entire height of the structure we fasten the panel with self-tapping screws to the sheathing.
3. Subsequent strips are connected using clamps, which are inserted into the groove of the panel. It is advisable to fix these staples with nails to the sheathing.
4. We slide the ridge of the next one into the groove of the first corner panel. In this case, it is necessary to control the tightness of their fit. If cracks are found, you should slightly trim the ridge of one panel with a knife and try to put it in place again.
5. We attach the MDF plank to the sheathing using self-tapping screws along the entire height of the structure.
6. The installation process is then repeated.
7. The last panel must be pressed all the way to the penultimate one and secured at the free edge with self-tapping screws.

Important: If the last plank does not fit into the remaining space, you can still carefully shorten it in width using a jigsaw.

Slope finishing

This procedure is similar to installing panels. In addition, when finishing slopes, there are two decoration options. The first is to install the panel lengthwise, the second is to install it across. If the slope is small and its width does not exceed 1.8 times the width of the finishing panel, transverse cladding is performed. At wide slopes you can resort to any of the methods.

Useful information: slopes sheathed across, with alternating dark and light tones, have an excellent appearance.

The finished look is given by fittings, thanks to which you can hide the corner joints between the panels. Folding corners cover the shortcomings well. WITH inside You need to apply glue to them and press the product tightly to the sheathing in the corner. To hide the joints with the floor and ceiling, you can use a plinth.

Video instructions for working with wall panels

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in installing MDF panels, and this work can be done without help construction foreman. We hope that our article will help you produce high-quality finishing premises that will not only insulate your home, but will also last for many years.

Covering walls with MDF panels is an affordable and simple way to decorate residential premises.

The finishing material has a decent attractive appearance, has excellent heat and sound insulation properties, and installing MDF panels with your own hands is not very difficult.

Interior decoration of walls with MDF panels is carried out in two main methods: on the lathing and directly on the wall surface. Preference for one or another finishing option is based on the condition of the walls in the room and its operating conditions.

Frame method

The essence of the method is to attach finishing MDF boards to a pre-constructed sheathing. It is used in several cases:

• the wall surface is uneven and there is no way to eliminate the defect;
• the room needs heat or sound insulation;
• there is a need to hide engineering Communication– wiring, for example, located on walls.

Finishing materials

Using the frame method, it is possible to install MDF panels on a wall of any form factor - slats, wall panels and decorative sheets. The appearance of the slab, the thickness of the panel, and the quality are determined not by the installation method, but by the functionality of the room.

1. Form factor.

The most commonly used material is rack material, since, thanks to the tongue-and-groove joint, its installation is simple and does not take much time.

Cladding with tiles and sheet panels more difficult, since it is associated with the need to comply with a certain pattern.

1. Thickness.

The slabs are produced with a thickness of 6 mm for slats, and from 3 mm for sheet products. For finishing the walls of rooms with severe operating conditions, it is recommended to choose MDF panels of maximum thickness.

1. Moisture resistance.

Moisture-resistant MDF panels are used for finishing bathrooms, toilets and kitchens.

Tools and Supplies

• MDF boards - slatted, panel, sheet.
• Universal corner made of fiberboard - used when decorating corners.
• – if thermal insulation work is being carried out.
• Hammer, jigsaw, knife.
• Square and usually nylon thread.
• "Liquid nails" or other wood glue.
• Wood screws - from 40 to 80 mm, plastic dowels or plugs - for attaching the sheathing.
• Nails, clamps with a tongue of the required height, glue - depending on the chosen method of installing the panel.

Preparatory stage

1. Since during the installation of MDF panels on a metal frame or wooden sheathing is not carried out, then its preparation comes down to cleaning it from dust and dirt. However, if there are large cracks on the wall, they should be repaired.
2. The wiring is retracted into corrugated pipes.
3. If there is a general high level of humidity in the apartment, it is recommended to treat the surface with an antiseptic primer.

The coefficient of thermal expansion of MDF products is low, but moisture resistance is low, so the material should be kept indoors for 2-3 days in order to equalize the humidity of the board and the air.

With a small sheet thickness - 3-6 mm, this stage can be neglected; with a large sheet - 16-20 mm, exposure is necessary.

Manufacturing and installation of sheathing

The frame is made from wooden blocks with a cross-section of 20×40 mm, or a galvanized profile. Both solutions have their advantages

Wooden sheathing is much easier to install, does not require a large amount of hardware, and is characterized by the ability to absorb and release moisture at a level close to MDF boards.

In this case, the material requires additional processing antiseptic agents and does not exclude the possibility of destruction under the influence of moisture.

The metal frame is highly durable and resistant to moisture.

MDF installation panels on metallic profile provides rigid fastening, which prevents the panels from elongating. In rooms with noticeable changes in temperature and humidity, for example on a loggia, this leads to warping of the finish.

Since, with the exception of special moisture-resistant ones, they are also not resistant to moisture, you should not build a frame more durable than the sheathing itself.

Installation of lathing for MDF panels: detailed instructions

Slat slats can be positioned horizontally, vertically or diagonally. Square panels can be formed into a pattern. In any case, the installation directions of the sheathing strip and the MDF panel must be perpendicular to each other.

The diagonal method of laying panels is more material-intensive.

Most often used vertical installation finishing, as it ensures a minimum of waste.

1. The most convex place on the wall surface is determined - its height is the control point.

The frame rail must pass through the top of the convexity.

1. The recommended pitch is 40–60 cm. If the sheet size is large, the pitch can be increased.

The possibility of increasing is checked as follows: if the panel bends slightly when pressed by hand between the slats, then the change is permissible.

1. The wall is marked with a pencil.

In this case, it is advisable to place the bottom strip as close to the floor as possible: the baseboard is attached to it.

1. The first to install the rail is the most convex place.

The block is placed on the marked line, and a hole is drilled in the wall through the plank using a hammer drill. The depth of the hole is calculated so that the self-tapping screw is in main wall no less than 30–40 mm. The fastening pitch is at least 60 cm.

1. First of all, the rail is fixed at the top of the convexity - close to the wall, and then at the opposite end, previously leveled.
2. To check the plane of the block, a thread is pulled from one end to the other end of the wall and fixed on self-tapping screws at a level; a match is placed between the head and the thread.

Correction of the rack fastening is carried out using wedges, the thickness of which is determined by the deviation of the fastening depth compared to the control point.

1. Blanks for wedges are cut from a lath and trimmed with a knife as work progresses.

It is allowed to use pieces of plywood.

1. The second rail, usually lower, is installed in the same way: the ends are fixed level, and the rest of the fastening is adjusted along the thread.
2. The following frame elements are mounted as follows: the rule is applied to the fixed slats, and the next bar is aligned in the plane with the first two.

It is prohibited to attach any objects to the MDF panel. However, it is quite possible to hang a mirror in the hallway if the installation wall MDF panels are carried out on the frame.

Wall cladding with MDF panels

Sheathing begins after constructing the frame.

Mounting methods:

• Glue it.

The adhesive composition is applied to the panel in the areas of fixation to the sheathing. Suitable for thin slabs;

• Mechanical fastening with staples, nails or screws.

Provides reliable fixation, but does not compensate for thermal expansion. The method is recommended for rooms with stable temperature and humidity;

• Fastening with clamps.

The clip is placed on the edge of the panel and secured to the sheathing with nails. This is the most recommended option.

Installation sequence

1. Slat slats and universal corners are cut to length using a jigsaw or hacksaw. The edges are sanded.
2. Installation can be started from any corner of the room.

1. The first lamella is fixed in such a way that the edge with the ridge is directed towards the corner, and the gap between the wall and the sheathing board is 2-3 mm.

On the ridge side, the lamella is fixed with self-tapping screws to the slats, and on the groove side, a clamp is put on the edge and secured. When joining, the fastener is hidden by the ridge of the next element.

The next panels are inserted with a comb into the groove of the previous one and secured with clamps.

1. The last panel usually needs adjustment.

The slab is tried on, the required width is determined, and the excess fragment is cut off. Then the element is inserted and also secured in the corner with self-tapping screws.

1. The corners and top edge are finished with a universal corner.

Design of sockets and switches

When decorating walls with MDF panels in such areas, you must:

• try on the panel and mark the location of the outlet;
• cut a hole of the appropriate diameter;
• fasten two parallel bars to the wall so that the future socket can be installed on them;
• fix the MDF board to the sheathing.

Frameless method: do-it-yourself cladding

The method is implemented when the walls of the room have a flat surface, or if one of the tasks of the repair is their careful alignment. Any MDF products can be used, but more often this method

Preparation

Before proceeding with the installation of MDF panels with glue, the surface is cleaned and primed. The most commonly used primer is with an antiseptic effect.

The slatted lamellas are cut to the required height, the corner is also cut off, and the edges are processed with sandpaper. Square panels are adjusted after fitting.

Adhesives used

The adhesive composition must satisfy two requirements:

• After drying, maintain some plasticity to absorb the thermal expansion of the material.
• Have a dense structure, which would allow the glue to be applied in both a thin and thick layer. This property makes it possible to properly attach the panel even in cases where the wall surface is curved.

Most often, “Liquid nails” and “Moment installation” are used, but there may be other options - “MitreFix”, “Moment Crystal”.

Installation of cladding: sequence of actions

1. It is recommended to start covering from the corner towards the window opening.
2. Horizontal and vertical markings are made on the wall according to the size of the panels.
3. Glue is applied to the back of the slab in zigzag strips.
4. The panel easily presses against the wall and is immediately removed.

After 2–5 minutes it is fixed tightly. This way a stronger connection is achieved. The first lamella must be checked with a vertical level.

1. The slabs are laid end-to-end or overlapping.
2. In areas where it is planned to install sockets and switches, holes are pre-made in the panel.
3. The corners and upper edge are sealed with a universal corner, the lower edge with a plinth.

Finishing nuances: processing joints and corners

A universal corner is used for finishing corners. It consists of two plates made of chipboard and connected on the front side with a film.

The strips can bend both inward and outward, which allows the element to be used to decorate any corners.

1. The corner is cut to the required length. Docking, if the top edge is being decorated, is done at an angle of 45 degrees.
2. It is recommended to apply glue to the glue in two stages: light pressing so that the composition is distributed both over the cladding and on the surface of the corner, and then firmly with pressure.
3. Remains of glue, if they do appear, are cut off with a painting knife after complete hardening. They are difficult to remove with cleaning agent or solvent.

Joints are finished in exactly the same way, if such a need arises. However, in this case it is necessary to carefully select the element by color.

Finishing MDF boards does not apply to work high level complexity and requires not so much experience as careful execution.

From an aesthetic point of view, it is not recommended to decorate both the ceiling and the walls of the room with slabs at the same time. Styles that involve such a solution are not implemented in city apartments. But for a balcony or loggia this is a completely acceptable option.