We strengthen homemade lifting devices. How to make a beam crane with your own hands, materials and tools, calculations, assembly and installation Do-it-yourself corner beam crane for a garage
Any user of the site will agree with the statement that one of the most necessary things during construction is a crane. The steel hero becomes an indispensable assistant when there is a need to lift a large load.
A lifting mechanism is usually associated with a huge structure tens of meters high. However, in private house-building, when compact mechanisms for construction come to the fore, one needs an option with a boom length not exceeding 5-7 meters.
But renting it is not a cheap pleasure, especially if the construction lasts for more than one month.
In this case, there is only one way out - roll up your sleeves and build a homemade mini-crane with your own hands. And our forum members will help you with this!
How to make a homemade faucet
Saving on your own health and trying manually lifting an unbearable load, especially if the construction of a house is carried out independently and without the involvement of hired labor, does not lead to any good. We have already told our readers. Now we are making a crane with our own hands to build a house called “ mini-pioneer."
“Pioneer” is a mobile collapsible structure, with the help of which the load is lifted to a given height. So homemade The crane can be used when digging foundations and construction and installation work on building houses.
The basis of the mechanism is a supporting running frame, installed permanently or on a mobile chassis. The rotating part of the crane is mounted on the frame. The boom can be rotated manually or electrically. The design of the crane itself is made according to modular principle and can be disassembled into several parts for the convenience of moving the mechanism from one construction site to another.
The stability of the structure is ensured thanks to a counterweight and steel cable guys (turnbuckles), and the load is lifted using a winch and a block.
The experience of our forum member, who decided to build a mini “Pioneer” on his own, is interesting. He needed this construction mechanism to build a private house from timber.
Voldemort:
“I am almost single-handedly building a house from six-meter timber. It is impossible to lift and carry it alone. That is why I decided to assemble a mechanism in order to take the timber from the stack, place it at the sawing site and lift it to the plinth.
As the height of the building increases, our forum member plans to place a crane on the floor beams of the house.
A forum member assembled the frame from a corner 63x63x5 mm. The 5-meter-long boom was made from a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm. To strengthen the structure, two corners 30x30x3 mm were used. Also included in the plans Voldemora includes further extension of the boom by another 2 meters.
Voldemort:
– The lifting capacity of the mechanism is approximately 150 kg, but the design can lift more weight, and in order to achieve this, it is necessary to increase the multiplicity of pulleys.
Translated from Greek, Polyspaston means “tensioned by several ropes.” They call it a chain hoist construction device for lifting loads. It consists of several blocks connected to each other by a rope or cable that goes around the blocks in a circle. A pulley block allows you to lift a load with less effort than the weight of the load.
The simplest pulley allows you to get a three-fourfold gain in strength; we should not forget that friction losses are inevitable in this system. Even in best models blocks they reach 10%. And the more you gain in strength, the more the distance over which the equipment can move the load decreases.
Voldemort:
– It took me a week to make all the components and mechanisms. I spent another two days assembling and fine-tuning the mechanism. The swing drive and the boom lift drive are a six-fold manual pulley. The lifting drive is also a manual double chain hoist.
Voldemort notes that it would be much more convenient to control a mechanism with electric drives - to lift a load from a remote control on a long cord, as is done in industrial models. But in this case, the complexity of manufacturing all the mechanisms increases significantly, which will lead to an increase in the cost of the design and an increase in the time for manufacturing the crane.
The details of the device's manufacture are interesting.
Voldemort:
- As turntable I took two faceplates that I found at work. Basically, I assembled the mechanism from what was at hand. Instead of an axle, I welded a 30 mm bolt. I did not take a bolt made of high-strength steel, because such ones weld worse, do not stretch or bend, and immediately burst if their strength limit is exceeded.
All components of the device are lubricated with lithol.
To reduce the weight of the counterweight, the length of the support legs is 2 meters. At self-production When calculating the components of such a device, one point should be taken into account. The fact is that with a radius of the rotating faceplate of 200 mm and a distance of 2 meters to a counterweight weighing 100 kg, a tensile load of 1 ton acts on the central bolt. And this does not take into account the weight of the boom and the load being lifted!
It is also important to check the device for stability.
Voldemort:
– To begin with, let’s imagine that our crane is a single beam that rests on one support, and this support should be the shortest distance from the axis of rotation. Three forces act on the beam: the weight of the load, the weight of the counterweight and the mass of the mechanism. In order not to take into account the mass of the boom, I underestimated the weight of the crane by 50 kg. The calculation is approximate and simple, but it is better with it than without it at all.
Boom lift drum Voldemort Made from a tube with a diameter of 100 mm.
Voldemort:
– There is a nuance here - the drum cannot be placed close to the blocks. It needs to be shifted slightly along the axis towards the first block so that the second layer of cable is wound evenly.
A forum member made the blocks from three washers: two large and one small. All blocks are without bearings. It is important to ensure that the blocks bend well with the rope. That is, either the rope must be flexible, or the blocks must be large diameter. Otherwise, when the boom is raised without load, the cables may fly out of the blocks.
Voldemort:
– My rope has a diameter of 12 mm, but it is very thick - there was simply no other way. If I lengthen the boom, I will put more flexible cable with a diameter of 5 mm, because its working load is 150 kg, and its breaking load is 850 kg.
When designing block systems, it is important to understand how the chain hoist works and is calculated. Let's look at this using the example of a mini-pioneer.
Voldemort:
– The principle of operation of a pulley block is similar to the operation of a gearbox - you gain in strength, but lose in the length of the rope and, consequently, the speed of lifting the load.
In the gearbox main characteristic- This gear ratio, and in a chain hoist – the multiplicity, i.e. the ratio of all rope branches to those running off the drum. If we have 6 sections of rope, it means the chain hoist is six-fold.
This means that the pulling load on the drum will be 6 times less than the weight of the load, and the rope itself, if it is designed for 100 kg, then rolled 6 times, will lift 600 kg.
Do-it-yourself construction mini-cranes
The design turned out to be so successful that many of our users decided to repeat it and even give the crane mobility by placing it on a Gazelle.
Forum member with nickname plumag proposes, using a similar mechanism of greater load capacity and equipped with electric drives, to install concrete pillars. And in order to be able to transport such an individual crane on the roads common use, make the structure collapsible and install it partially or completely in the body at the site of the intended work. This will allow you to quickly recoup all costs associated with the manufacture of the device.
At FORUMHOUSE you can learn everything about self-help, and also get acquainted with the mini-pioneer. The portal discusses everything you need to know to make a faucet, from a concrete mixer to a pipe bender. Topics from forum members about making useful household items that will help you build.
Our video will tell you what tools you need to set up a carpentry workshop. See how to make A yourself in this tool, which will simplify work on your site near the country house.
Materials for the crane were mainly found in scrap metal. We only had to buy bearings, a winch, and order parts for the turning mechanism from a turner.
And I also had to pay the welder, since I myself welding work I can’t do it because of some vision problems.
In general, this crane cost 5,000 rubles, which cannot be compared with the amount of work that I managed to complete with its help, because the “cheapest” helper in our region costs 800 rubles per day.
I’ll immediately say that during operation, my faucet revealed some shortcomings, which I will point out and advise on how to correct them. So your faucet will be a little different from mine.
Let's start with the rotating mechanism
It consists of six parts that need to be ordered by a turner, and two bearings.
As you can see, there are no dimensions in the drawing. The fact is that you don’t have to follow the exact size, like mine. After all, we make the faucet from available material, and I cannot know what size channel or I-beam, or what kind of pipe you will have at hand.
A little more or a little less doesn’t matter in my design. And you will understand this from further instructions. And having generally estimated what materials and parts you have, determine what dimensions to take for the manufacture of the rotating mechanism.
The mechanism has two bearings. At the top, between the housing and the base, there is a support bearing. Below, again between the housing and the base, there is a simple radial bearing.
Or rather, the housing should be mounted on the bearing, and the base should fit into it. Thus, both of these parts are connected. For more reliable fixation of the radial bearing, a nut is screwed onto the housing from below. The thickness of the threaded and retaining parts of the nut is at your discretion, but not less than 3 mm.
Then this unit is attached to the platform with a bolt (I have an M 26), which attracts the base to the platform. Thus, it turns out that the platform and base are a stationary part of the mechanism, and the body with the nut is rotating.
Now a little about what practice has shown. Towards the end of the season, the radial bearing weakened a little, and a barely noticeable play formed in the turning mechanism.
But with a boom length of 5 meters, this play became noticeably noticeable, so I recommend installing a hub bearing, 36 mm wide, instead of a radial bearing.
Here in Kazan, support and wheel bearings can be bought for 500 rubles both. And to tighten the bolt securing the base to the platform, you will need spanner wrench with an extension cord, and always two washers - flat and Grover.
Our next node will be the rack.
To make it you will need a piece of pipe (I have d140) and four pieces of channel. The height of the stand needs to be estimated so that finished form she was just the thing for you. Even two centimeters lower. Then it will be convenient to turn the winch when operating the crane.
Since God is unlikely to send you a piece of pipe with an evenly cut end, you will have to cut one end yourself. To do this, we take a car clamp, or make a clamp from a strip of tin, and tighten it on the pipe.
When tightened, the clamp will try to position itself on the pipe as evenly as possible, and if you help it a little (by eye), you will get a fairly even line around the circumference of the pipe, which you just have to draw, then remove the clamp, and cut the pipe along this line using a grinder .
Then, the rotating mechanism platform is welded to this flat end of the pipe. Now it’s clear why I didn’t give the dimensions in the drawing? You still have to order the rotating mechanism. And you can find a tuba. This means the diameter of the platform can be ordered according to the diameter of the pipe.
Now the legs. They need to be welded so that the stand does not collapse. How to do it? Firstly, they need to be cut to the same length.
Then hang the pipe with the welded platform, passing the rope through the hole in the center of the platform, and place your legs diagonally towards the pipe, so that in the end, the pipe remains hanging evenly, and your legs rest against it on all four sides.
As soon as the balance is found, you need to draw by eye the corners of the channels that abut the pipe, and trim them with a grinder as shown in the photo.
After trimming the corners, lean your legs against the pipe again, catch your balance, check with a rack and tape so that they form an even cross, and secure them with welding. After tacking, check the cross again, and you can weld.
All that remains is to make the support cross itself. It can be made from any rigid profile. At first there was an idea to put it on wheels made of bearings, but time was running out, and it didn’t come to the wheels, but actually it would have been nice. The unit turned out to be quite heavy, and it was difficult to move it.
The length of the arms of the cross is 1.7 meters, although as operation has shown, this cross does not play a particularly large role in the stability of the crane. The main stability is provided by balance, which we will talk about later.
The cross is not welded to the legs, but is attached with M 10 bolts and nuts. This was done for ease of possible transportation. The legs were reinforced in anticipation of installing wheels, but they never got around to it, although the idea of installing them is still there.
The stand with the rotating mechanism is ready, now let's move on to the crane platform, on which the counterweight, winches, and boom will be installed. I found a one and a half meter I-beam, 180 mm wide, for the platform. But I think you can use a channel and even a 150 x 200 beam under it.
At first I even wanted to use timber, but since I found an I-beam, I chose it. The platform is attached to the rotary mechanism body with four bolts and M 10 nuts.
If you use timber instead of an I-beam, then you will need to make additional platforms for it, above and below. You can “encircle” it with two pieces of channel and tighten everything with bolts.
But we’ll wait with the bolts for now, since the place where the platform is attached to the rotating mechanism will need to be selected based on balance. That is, the crane boom must be balanced by a block for counterweights and a winch. That is, the crane must stand confidently on the stand and not fall over.
Next will be the counterweight block.
I have it made from pieces of the same channel as the platform, but it can be made from anything, and in any way. The main thing is to have a container in which you can install loads, so that if necessary, you can increase the counterweight.
Now about the winch. My winch is installed with a capacity of 500 kg, with a brake. And once again, as practice has shown, such power was not enough to lift a load of about 100 kg.
That is, you can lift it, but you have to lean so hard on the handle that when lifting to a height of more than 5 meters, you get tired very quickly. For such a crane you need a winch of 1 - 1.5 tons.
There was also supposed to be a second winch for lifting the boom, but it was at that time, having visited a bunch of shops and markets, that I could find only one winch with a brake, which you see in the photo. Therefore, instead of a second winch, a temporary tension cable was made, the length of which is still changed using clamps.
Unfortunately, there is nothing more permanent than a temporary structure. I still recommend that you install a winch instead, preferably a worm one. Its speed is low, and the brake, whether up or down, is dead. That's what an arrow needs.
All that remains is to make an arrow, which is what we will do. The boom consists of a mount with a shaft, a beam 150 x 50, and a tip with a pulley.
First, the mounting body. It is better to make it from a piece of channel wood.
Any round timber with a diameter of 20 to 30 mm will do for the shaft. For example, I cut off a piece of the rotor shaft of some old engine. Then we bend it in a vice, put two brackets around this shaft and fasten it to the channel, into which the beam will then be inserted.
We buy two simple bearing, in such a way that they fit tightly onto the shaft, and we cut out a seat in the mounting body.
Of course, you can dream up how to secure the bearings in the housing. Besides mine, there are probably a dozen more ways. And I found an ebonite plate, 10 mm thick, from which I made these fasteners.
The boom itself is a beam 150 x 50, 5 meters long. It is inserted into a channel 80 mm wide and 2.5 meters long. True, I had to trim it a little so that it would go inside the channel. I have a channel installed, 3.5 meters long, but this is only because I didn’t have it at hand at the time good timber, with small knots. I simply played it safe, which, unfortunately, increased the weight of the arrow.
The timber is secured to the channel with ties made from a metal strip 3 mm thick.
At the end of the boom, you need to attach a pulley for the cable. Mine is made from a wheel from a trolley bag. For skillful hands, I think there are plenty of options for attaching the pulley. At first it was fastened between two pieces of plywood, but then I made a fastening from a channel.
Now you can assemble the arrow, if not for one “but”. During operation, the brackets that secure the shaft to the channel turned out to be rather weak. So I made them stronger.
And one more addition. My reinforcing part is secured with four bolts. You need to add two more on top to make the knot more rigid. Although mine works fine with four bolts. Otherwise I would have added it a long time ago.
Now you can assemble the entire crane platform, that is, install a winch on it, a block for counterweights under the winch, and at the other end - a boom lifting body with a boom. If there is, then a second winch, if not, then a guy rope, like mine.
All this is assembled in a lying position, and upon completion it is raised vertically, onto some kind of support. For example, I stacked several pallets on top of each other and placed the assembled platform on them so that the counterweight hung freely downwards.
Then we fasten swivel mechanism to the counter. The most important thing remains - install the platform on the stand so that the boom and counterweight balance each other.
Unfortunately, I don’t have any photographs of the structure that I built for this, well, I’ll try to explain it this way.
This design is a tripod with a block at the top. The height of the tripod is approximately three meters. It is made from timber 100 x 50. As you probably already guessed, the assembled crane platform needs to be suspended and raised so that a stand can be placed under it.
The platform will be raised using its own winch. To do this, we pass the winch cable through the block and hook it to the boom lifting body, which is located at the opposite end of the platform.
Now, if you operate the winch upward, the entire platform will rise. But during the rise, the arrow, raised up, begins to collapse, so you need to either call a couple of assistants who will fix the arrow in a vertical position, or make another tripod (as I did) with a block 6 meters high, and tie rope to the end of the arrow, let it through the block, and pull it up as the platform rises.
Having suspended the platform in this way and placed a stand under it, you can lower and raise the platform and move the stand to find a position in which the counterweight will balance the boom.
In this position, drill 4 through holes and bolt the platform to the rack. OK it's all over Now. The tap is ready. You can start testing.
Well, a couple of examples of operation:
General view of my faucet:
If the article does not answer your question, ask it in the comments. I will try to answer as quickly as possible.
I wish you success in your work, as well as the opportunity to lift and move everything you need and where you need it.
For those who repair cars, a jack alone is not enough. To pull the engine out you need a crane. Of course, this option http://sdm-group.com.ua/catalog/mostoviekrani is not needed in the garage, but a smaller and modernized version, and also collapsible, will be useful to many car enthusiasts and not only.
And this is not an industrial product. This beam crane was made by some craftsmen in their garage with their own hands.
This photo shows the main dimensions 
The main materials used were:
For a solid-drawn cross rod with a diameter of 100mm and a length of 4150mm
For rod supports, a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm (cut a piece 1200 mm long into two identical parts
Mounting bolts for supports to the rod M:16
The stands are made of square pipes 100x100mm length 2350 mm
The bevels and base are a 100x100mm corner
The rollers mounted on the crane beam are parts of the elevator door drive. They are attached to a 50mm strip of metal and overlap welded to the rod and to one of the rod supports.
The size of this beam crane was not chosen by chance. This model is designed to work with passenger cars.
The mobility of the structure is ensured by ordinary rollers from a storage container welded to the vertical posts.
The disassembled design of our beam crane takes up very little space.
The lifting mechanism is a conventional worm-type hand winch welded to a vertical post. Its carrying capacity is somewhere around 800kg. The drive is a steel cable. . 
You can also adapt an electric winch if you wish, but there is no particular need for this.
The above construction is not a dogma. This version was produced under certain tasks and the material at hand. Any engine passenger car he pulls out the mobile easily and calmly lifts the Volga by the hood. On sale, if you search, you can find a similar crane industrial production, but the price will be decent. The idea has been proposed to you, but whether you want to implement it is up to you.
Car owners who independently repair their “iron horse” periodically ask themselves the question: how to make a beam crane with your own hands? This is a practical and relatively inexpensive lifting device that significantly simplifies heavy and time-consuming work, such as engine removal. In addition, lifting equipment is suitable for low-rise construction: lifting bricks, mortar and other building materials to a small height.
You can make such a mechanism for your garage yourself. Almost any metal is suitable for this, which often lies unattended on the territory of garage cooperatives and construction sites. Homemade taps They can be gantry, with a rotating boom design, or suspended, moving along the channel in a horizontal plane.
Features of factory-produced crane beams
- movement along a guide beam in a given direction;
- gripping and lifting loads;
- short-term fixation in a raised position or unloading at the desired point;
- return to the starting position, repeating the working cycle if necessary.
According to their own design features, crane beams are divided into two categories: supporting and suspended. These groups differ in the arrangement of their route of movement. Support modifications move along crane tracks equipped with a special rail. Loading and unloading operations are controlled manually or by means of an installed electric drive.
Hanging models are fixed to ceilings. The function of guides here is performed by an I-beam channel. Such designs are more variable in application and help to use them more rationally. inner space premises. It should be clarified that if crane equipment is supposed to be installed inside a garage box, it is better to choose hanging version.
To simplify the installation process, you can use a manual drive. This variation is no different high performance, but for the needs of car enthusiasts more is not required. If you have experience installing electrical equipment, you can install a motor for the hoist.
Main characteristics
When making a homemade crane beam, it is better to focus on technical specifications factory-made models. These characteristics were calculated by qualified specialists, so they are optimally suited for multi-purpose use.
The characteristics of different modifications may differ, but in general, it looks like this:
- Work zone. The span length varies between 3-28.5 meters. You should not focus on this indicator: not every garage has such an area, so the length of the crane runway is selected based on the actual size of the room.
- Lifting height. Industrial lifts lift loads to a height of 6-18 meters. For private use, you can stop at the minimum option. For example, if we are talking about a simple hoist for a tractor or a passenger car, a lifting height of 1.5 meters is sufficient.
- Voltage. Electrical equipment operates from a three-phase network of 380V. If you intend to install a lifting device with manual drive, this parameter is not relevant.
- Operating temperature range. Factory models work correctly at temperatures of -20/+40 degrees. This parameter must be taken into account when choosing components.
Materials and tools
To make a homemade crane beam you will need the following building materials:
- Support rods - made of pipe round section, with a diameter of 110 mm.
- The cross rod is an all-metal pipe with a diameter of at least 100 mm.
- Racks – corrugated pipe of square section 100*100 mm.
- Reinforcing bevels for the upper cross member and base - steel angle.
- Fastening elements – M16 bolt-nut set.
- The lifting mechanism is a manual hoist or hoist.
To assemble the structure you will need:
- spanners;
- Bulgarian;
- welding machine.
Before starting work, it is recommended to make a drawing of the future crane beam indicating the dimensions of the constituent elements. In addition, it makes sense to calculate the optimal load capacity in advance so that the lift can cope with the assigned tasks.
Overhead crane
This design is optimal for a garage, but there are a number of nuances. First, overhead lifts require guides, which are usually installed during the construction phase. Secondly, the base must be strong and withstand loads of at least 250 kilograms.
Of course, you can equip guides for moving the hoist yourself. To do this, you will need to make mortgages in the wall, to which you will attach an I-beam or a corrugated pipe with a square section. The length of the crane runway is calculated based on individual needs. In general, to remove the engine, a free play of 1.5-2 meters is enough. It is better to make the guide from a single piece of pipe. If you have to weld the missing part, it is recommended to carefully control the quality of the seam so that the structure does not collapse under load.
Having dealt with the guide, we move on to making the carriage. This element can be welded from angle steel, fastening the racks with studs. Here you can use steel strips and corner elements. The dimensions are arbitrary, the main thing is that the width of the carriage matches the parameters of the guide.
The design will require 8 bearings: 4 to move the carriage (wheels) and 4 to the idler rollers, which will perform a supporting function. For the chassis it is better to use bearings of larger diameter. Considering the importance of the element and the expected loads, you should not skimp on quality. For deflection rollers, any consumer goods will do, for example, Chinese factory-made rollers.
Support bearings are mounted on studs suitable diameter(2 for each), which, in turn, are inserted into the holes of the side strips and secured with nuts. Bypass bushings are welded to the bottom of the structure. They are needed to prevent the crane beam from skewing.
Additional metal strips going down are welded to the side edges. Four holes are drilled here: 2 on each side. A supporting pin is inserted into the lower part, on which the hoist itself is suspended. A safety pin is installed in the upper grooves to prevent deformation of the carriage under load.
All that remains is to place the crane-beam trolley on the guide and tighten the structural elements with bolts.
Step-by-step manufacturing diagram
Attaching the support beam
Trolley with support bearings
Crane beam with installed carriage
Support crane beam
This is a full-rotating structure, equipped with a boom and lifting mechanism. In a garage, such a crane beam can only be used as a corner beam, however, this option has a competitive advantage. The design is collapsible and portable, so it is quite suitable for construction and other economic purposes. As in the previous case, most of the parts can be found in the garage, but some items will have to be purchased. In any case, a do-it-yourself cantilever crane will cost much less than purchasing a factory model.
First, a rotating mechanism is assembled, consisting of two bearings, a housing and a base. It is immediately necessary to clarify that the body and lower platform are manufactured at lathe, so they will probably have to be ordered. Bearings are selected individually, taking into account the size of the housing part and the diameter of the bushing on which they will be mounted. The structure is tightened with bolts, for which holes of a given diameter are drilled in the body internal thread.
Now let's move on to making the support posts. To do this, you will need a piece of pipe and four pieces of channel. The upper edge of the pipe is leveled with a grinder and a file: a rotating mechanism is welded to this part, so it is important to prevent distortion. The channel is cut so that the height is at the level of a person’s waist.
This is done so that rotation of the lifting mechanism handle does not cause difficulties. Support posts are trimmed to the level so that the crane beam does not collapse during operation. In addition, a cross made of any rigid profile is attached to the lower part of the channel. It's better to use here threaded connection to simplify the transportation process.
The next structural element is the crane equipment platform. The best option will I-beam, attached to the turntable with bolts. As an alternative, a channel or wooden beam 150*200 mm is suitable. Here you need to focus on balance so that the crane beam does not fall over and overweight the platform when lifting the load. To do this, a counterweight made from scraps of metal or brick is suspended in the opposite boom part of the platform. So that the element fits organically into general design, it is better to weld a small box, inside of which the counterweight will be placed.
A winch and boom are placed on the platform. The lifting capacity of the winch is selected individually. As practice shows, for economic needs a value of 500-1,000 kilograms is sufficient. When purchasing, it is a good idea to pay attention to the presence of a locking brake.
The arrow is assembled from three elements:
- Mounts with shaft.
- Brusa.
- The tip where the pulley is installed.
The fastening body can be welded from pieces of channel material by passing any metal “round timber” with a diameter of 20-30 mm through the central part. The shaft is “locked” from the sides by bearings suitable size to increase the wear resistance of rubbing parts and simplify raising/lowering the boom. The arrow body is made from wooden beam, which is clamped by a channel. A pulley block is placed in the upper part through which the winch cable is passed.
To repair a car yourself, you need a lift. Therefore, every garage should have an engine lift, but purchasing professional equipment is expensive. In addition, being large in size, it will take up a lot of space in the garage. If you make a beam crane with your own hands, you can save money.
Tools and materials
The crane beam consists of a guide, a lifting mechanism and end beams. This convenient design, which can be used not only indoors, but also outdoors. Before you start making it, you need to make calculations and prepare a drawing.
Tools and materials you will need:
- for support rods - several pipes 11 cm in diameter;
- for a cross rod (solid) - a pipe 10 cm in diameter;
- hoist and manual hoist;
- for the rack - pipe (with square section) 10×10 cm;
- under the base and for bevels - metal corners 10x10 cm;
- M16 fixing bolts;
- welding machine.
Calculation
The calculation of the 250 cm high crane beam was made for working with passenger cars. The crane is capable of lifting elements weighing up to 800 kg. The width of the structure is 415 cm, and the size of the racks is 120 cm. For larger equipment, the lifting mechanism is equipped with vertical posts A-shape. To securely fasten the bar to the supports, scarves are used.
Assembly instructions
It will take 2 days to assemble a simple or movable structure. The process of making a crane beam with your own hands:
- The main load that the crane will move falls on the stand. To securely fix the structure, you need to make a frame. To do this from metal corners weld the legs under the tap. The corners are welded to the pipe at an angle of 45° on both sides of the pipe.
- To make spacers, 2 triangles are welded to each rack.
- For a mobile structure you will need rollers. They are welded to a horizontal base, positioned on both sides of each rack. To prevent the rollers from breaking and to withstand the weight, use products that are designed for metal containers. Furniture cannot be used.
- A pipe is installed at the top of the structure. It is designed to move the lifting mechanism.
- The roller for moving the cable is mounted on an I-beam. The I-beam is pre-welded at the central point of the pipe.
- To give the frame additional stability, a square-section pipe is welded to the beam element. It is placed on top of the beam so that it protrudes forward by 20 cm on both sides.
- The cross pipe is inserted into a pipe with a square cross-section and through holes for fastenings are drilled on both sides. Bolts are used as fasteners. Homemade frame ready for U-shaped tap. The pipe in the form of a crossbar is securely fixed in the upper part of the product, and the entire structure is stably placed on spacers (legs).
- Mechanical lifting is designed to lift parts. It can be manual or automatic. Manual hoist consists of a winch and a cable. The worm winch is mounted on the side of the rack. Movement steel cable occurs through rollers.
- The structure can be equipped with a lifting mechanism, which is used in elevators. This mechanism has strong rollers.
- Connecting an electric lift drive will make it easier renovation work. An engine with a power of 300 to 500 W is suitable for installation. It is mounted on the base of the structure.
