home > The buildings > How to make a universal wrench from an old bicycle chain. Do-it-yourself universal key made from a chain and a bolt Key made from a pipe and chain

How to make a universal wrench from an old bicycle chain. Do-it-yourself universal key made from a chain and a bolt Key made from a pipe and chain

In order for its transmission to serve for a long time and not create problems, it is worth periodically cleaning and lubricating the chain, and also changing it approximately every 10-15 thousand kilometers. Replacing a chain on a motorcycle is considered sufficient complex operation, and many experts recommend addressing such a problem to a specialized service station. However, you can change the chain yourself, saving a lot of money. This type of work does not require any special technical skills, but there are many nuances to it. By following the recommendations given in the article, you can achieve reliability and durability of your motorcycle’s transmission.

Tools

To work with the chain you will need a fairly extensive list of tools. The most important tool in this case will be a special chain riveter - such devices are produced by many companies, so finding one will be relatively easy. The cost of the tool varies between 1000-5000 rubles depending on the manufacturer and the grade of steel used. From some experienced craftsmen we hear that the riveter is successfully replaced with a hammer, chisel and core. This point of view is completely wrong - to achieve with their help reliable connection the chain will not succeed, and, most likely, it will soon break.

In addition, replacing sprockets and chain will require the following tools:

Torque wrench with comfortable handle;
Set of keys and sockets;
Compact grinder with a diamond blade for metal;
Grease as well as cleaner and chain cleaner.

It is better not to neglect the selection of high-quality tools, since it will be very unpleasant if during the work the key breaks in your hands and the motorcycle remains half disassembled. Remember that you will have to replace the chain regularly, so it is worth purchasing a quality set once and then using it for several years.

Dismantling

First you need to remove the chain cover and unscrew all the bolts holding the drive sprocket cover. After removing the plastic covers, attach all the fasteners to their original places to prevent their loss. There is always a considerable amount of dirt under the cover of the star - it is better to wash it using a special spray. After this, rinse the assembly with water and gently wipe off any remaining liquid with a non-abrasive cloth.

If replacing the sprockets is on the agenda, you need to loosen their fastenings by unscrewing the corresponding bolts. Here you will need help, since access to the rear wheel sprocket bolts is usually blocked by the pendulum and the motorcycle has to be moved back and forth. Now all that remains is to loosen the rear axle nut - however, no fastenings need to be completely removed yet! The motorcycle is mounted on the center stand or trolley, after which you need to finally unscrew the rear axle nut and remove the wheel. Having completed this operation, begin to remove the stars, completely unscrewing the bolts securing them.

To significantly facilitate the installation of a new chain, it is worth cutting the existing transmission mechanism. Some motorcycle models have special device, called a Chain Breaker - just lower it onto the chain and clamp it to knock the pin out of it. If it is missing, the chain can be riveted using the punch included in the riveting kit. However, experienced mechanics say that such a tool breaks too easily, and advise first sawing off the pin heads with a grinder. After this, it will be very easy to break the link - if you do not have all the above tools, you can cut the chain with a hacksaw, although such work will take a lot of time.

If you are wondering how to change a chain using special tool, then you should know that. A bushing for cutting the chain is installed in the riveter's clamping mechanism, after which it is combined with a pin with a sawn head. The clamping bolt is tightened with a pre-prepared torque wrench with a force of 10-12 Nm. All that remains is to insert the punch and screw it in until the pin falls out and the chain breaks.

Installation

If you are going to change the sprockets, you can do without cutting the chain, since you still have to install the new gear by hand. However, if they are preserved, this operation can significantly reduce the complexity of the work. If you purchased a new chain from a similar manufacturer, you can simply connect it to the old one to achieve the desired result. Otherwise, you can use strong synthetic thread or wire. The resulting long chain must be pulled over the stars, gradually turning them.

To understand how to replace a chain this way, you need to wait until the old gear part is in contact with the sprockets. Be sure to generously lubricate the engaging splines with grease. Now you can remove the old chain and begin installing the new one. The drive sprocket needs to be put in its place and the mount attached. The next step will be riveting the chain, which is considered the most critical process in the entire replacement procedure.

If you are wondering how to rivet a chain using a hammer and chisel, you can read the recommendations below and do everything by hand - however, the likelihood of breaking the transmission mechanism will be very high. Therefore, it is better to take a special riveter that limits the movement of the splines - this will allow you to keep the seals of the part intact. We generously lubricate the pins with a special chain lubricant, after which we put oil seals on them and lubricate them again. Now you need to thread them into the rollers, install another seal, lubricate it again and secure the lock cover on top. We install this link in the riveter so that the pins fall into a special groove - all that remains is to tighten the clamping bolt until they rest against its base.

Now you need to install it in the tool special nozzle for riveting pins. Press it against the surface of the chain - it is almost impossible to miss, since the tool has a special recess that makes aiming easier. Using a torque wrench, tighten the clamp bolt until the end of free play. Depending on the chain manufacturer, this value can be in the range of 15-20 Nm, but you should focus on a sharp increase in the required force to turn the bolt. Do not try to overtighten the bolt, as this will cause the lock to lose mobility, which will lead to accelerated wear of the transmission.

All that remains is to install the rear sprocket and attach the mount. Now you need to reinstall the wheel in reverse order, but also do not tighten the axle. Check that all parts are in place and that you have not lost any fasteners.

Ending

The next step will be to adjust the chain - it is normal for the transmission mechanism to sag by 25-35 mm. Depending on what kind of mechanism is used on your motorcycle, you may need to move the axle through a special slot, controlling it using adjusting bolts, or turn the eccentric device. Having installed required level any slack, tighten the rear axle nuts and make sure the rear wheel is completely locked.

Now start tightening all the fasteners to the required torque using a torque wrench - you can find all the values in the motorcycle's owner's manual. You should start with the rear sprocket, tightening its bolts crosswise to avoid damaging the threads, fix the front sprocket and check that the chain rotates without significant sagging in a certain area. Before using the motorcycle, the transmission mechanism will need to be lubricated using a special spray.

If you purchased the wrong chain model and need to know how to shorten it, you should use the recommendations above. Using a punch, break the mechanism and remove it from it. required quantity links After this, carefully lubricate all components and install the splines, not forgetting the oil seals and rollers of the friction pairs. However, such an operation should be performed only as a last resort - before purchasing a chain, you need to check whether it is suitable for a particular motorcycle model.

Hard work

Replacing the chain cannot be called particularly easy, although this operation does not require any special technical knowledge. The problem lies in the presence of a huge number of nuances - the transmission mechanism can be overtightened, crushed, or simply mounted incorrectly. Therefore, you should check all recommendations and use only high-quality tools. If you do not feel confident that you can perform all the procedures correctly, it is better to entrust the chain replacement to specialists. A motorcycle service station will help you make repairs in the shortest possible time, and will also guarantee the reliability of the transmission.

Most car enthusiasts believe that the oil filter puller is useless tool, which if anyone should have it, it should only be car service workers. Drivers who have already collided self-replacement Engine oils with a problem where the filter cannot be unscrewed by hand have already acquired a suitable puller. Selecting this tool is not so easy: there are many modifications offered on the market, but not all of them will be suitable for servicing a specific car model.

Types of industrially manufactured pullers

Depending on the design features and the size of the filter, pullers of one type or another are used to unscrew it. Their body or base is usually made of steel and is protected with a matte or silver chrome finish. A number of products, if provided for by the design, have plastic linings on the handles, which greatly simplifies the work with such a tool.

Almost all pullers allow you to unscrew both oil purifiers (hereinafter referred to as cleaners) and oil cups - filter casings with a replaceable insert. All pullers can first of all be divided into universal ones and those designed for unscrewing filters of only one diameter or type.

Among the first, the following main types are distinguished:

crab;
belt;
chain;
tape;
sickle-shaped and tick-shaped;
with 2 adjustable grips.

Their versatility is relative - not every filter can be unscrewed with them. Firstly, because they are designed for a certain range of diameters of cleaners, and for some pullers it is quite wide, while for others it is not very wide, and secondly, because of their own design features and dimensions. After all, the location of the filter, as well as the accessibility of the filter, differs on different cars, and therefore it will be easy and simple to work with any tool in one engine compartment, but perhaps completely impossible in another.

Only one type of tool is classified as narrow-profile - cup oil filter pullers. They received this name for their appearance, reminiscent of the kitchen appliance of the same name.

Design and method of use of the cup puller

This type of puller is produced for filters of all sizes, but each individual filter has only one diameter. Therefore, when buying a cup you need to be especially careful. This key should ideally fit the filters installed on the car engine. Even a difference of a few millimeters will turn the cup into a useless accessory.

Auto repair shop owners immediately purchase entire sets of these pullers, including up to 30 filter wrenches various diameters. Such sets are supplied with a suitcase in which the cups are conveniently arranged by size numbers.

“Cup” pullers have a square hole in their “bottom” for the tip of a socket wrench. Some manufacturers additionally make a hexagonal “bottom” - for a spanning tool. Many pullers, primarily their sets, are supplied with a tip for the “cup” hole on which the key is placed, and some come complete with everything necessary tool, including cap and end.

The “cup” puller is placed on the ribbed top of the filter with a wide open part, on the inner circumference of which there are edges. They must match in number and size with those available on the purifier. Otherwise, the puller will not fit tightly, and unscrewing the filter will be difficult or impossible. " Cup" is considered the most convenient tool. It itself is compact and, as a rule, it is easier to “crawl” into the filter. Moreover, a correctly selected “cup” never slips relative to the circumference of the filter housing, which sometimes happens with some other types of pullers.

Details about the universal “crab”

The “crab” puller consists of two plates, which are the body, and 3 grippers installed between them. There are notches on the working surface of the paws that prevent them from sliding over the surface of the filter. The grippers are controlled by clamping mechanism, located in the middle of the crab’s body and between the rotary mounts of the legs.

The mechanism itself, like the puller as a whole, is activated by a special key supplied - this is one of the design types - or by an end or cap tool, for which a corresponding tip is provided, extending from the body. The scheme of working with the “crab” is identical to the process of unscrewing the filter with a “cup” puller. You must first attach it to the end of the cleaner. It is in this part of the work that the “crab” is fundamentally different from the cup, which makes it universal. In the initial position, its paws are spread apart and are able to cover the filter with the maximum diameter allowed for its design.

After placing the grips on the smaller cleaner, the clamping mechanism is activated. In this case, the “crab” will be able to grab a filter whose diameter corresponds to the minimum allowable for the puller design. After the paws grab the cleaner, you must continue to work with the key placed on the drive of the clamping mechanism. This will unscrew the filter. Moreover, the stronger the applied force, the more reliable the grip of the “crab” paws will be - slipping is excluded.

Depending on the “crab” model, it can be used to remove and install filters with a diameter ranging from 60–125 mm. This puller, like the “cup”, is very good when working in narrow and confined spaces.

What do you need to know about other pullers?

The chain oil filter puller, depending on the design, allows you to unscrew and tighten filters with diameters ranging from 60–140 mm. It consists of a handle and a chain attached to it at one end, which serves as an adjustable grip. Most pullers are equipped with a single-row chain, but there are also models with a double-row chain. The second end of the grip, depending on the design, can be free or passed through a special groove located in the handle and having a lock.

During the first execution of the puller, before unscrewing the filter, the chain is tightly wound around its body, almost to the end. The remaining section of the grip is attached to the hook on the handle. After this, the puller rests on the filter and acts like a lever. The second version of the tool already has a loop made of chain, which has adjustable dimensions and is immediately thrown onto the filter. After this, pulling the end of the gripper passed through the groove, tighten the loop and press on the tool handle in the desired direction. At the same time, the groove lock securely holds the chain, preventing it from loosening its grip.

Belt pullers have a working diameter range of 25–160 mm. They have a special belt that forms a loop to hold the filter. It can be fixed at both ends in a square steel rod. A belt is wound around it after the loop is thrown over the filter. Then a suitable key is placed on the rod and the cleaner is unscrewed. Another type of puller is similar in design and use to the second type of chain tool.

The operating range of belt filters is one of the narrowest - the difference between the minimum and maximum permissible filter diameters can reach only 30 mm. They use a strip of steel or plastic, fixed at both ends to the handle and forming a loop, the size of which can be slightly adjusted in some designs. After throwing the grip on, force is applied to the handle and it acts like a lever. The tightness of the filter coverage is achieved in some designs by a screw on the handle, and in others - due to natural tension when unscrewing. Most pullers of this type often fail to cope with filters that are too tight.

The tools are sickle-shaped and pliers-shaped and have 2 working curved jaws with notches and 1 or 2 handles. Their working range of grip is also small; in some designs it is adjustable. Work with these pullers as with ordinary pliers - grab the filter, squeeze and unscrew.

A puller with 2 adjustable jaws consists of a thick narrow base plate, a screw and paws with notches on the working part. The threaded ends of the grippers are moved in the longitudinal slots of the base and secured in the desired position with a nut. When you tighten the screw passing along the thread of the hole in the center of the plate, after it is pressed tightly against the filter, the latter is unscrewed.

Do-it-yourself belt puller - nothing could be easier

To make this key with your own hands, you will need a steel hexagon. Its standard size can be 19 or 17 - for the appropriate key, whichever is more convenient for you. We cut a piece approximately 150 mm long or another size from the hexagon rod. This must be determined by trying it on in the engine compartment of your own car, so that the puller made makes it as convenient as possible to unscrew the filter.

Then along the hexagon in the middle we make a cut with a grinder 55–60 mm long and 5–6 mm wide, which should pass through the opposite corners of the section and parallel to the side edges of the rod. After this, we process the workpiece with sandpaper - remove sharp edges and burrs. Taking an old but undamaged car seat belt, cut off a piece of it to the required length, depending on the diameter of the installed filter. The longer the belt section is, the more universal the puller will be, but it will also become less convenient to work with when unscrewing small cleaners. IN general case a piece of 500–550 mm is enough.

We insert the belt into the slot of the workpiece, align and center it. Then, on the hexagon opposite the belt, we make markings at equal distances from each other for drilling 3 holes. Remove the belt from the cut. We drill through holes with a diameter of 5.5 mm. After this, on one side we expand the holes to 6.5 mm. Drilling is carried out only up to the slot. In holes with a diameter of 5.5 mm, use a tap to cut an M6 thread.

We melt both ends of the belt with a lighter so that they do not unravel, and then we put them together and thread them into the cut of the hexagonal blank opposite the holes. The result is a loop. The ends of the belt opposite it should protrude from the slot by about 10 mm. We take a nail, or better yet, a steel rod 6 mm in diameter, heat it well and, pushing it alternately through the 3 openings of the hexagon, burn holes in the tape with it. It is necessary to burn through, and not make holes, so that the belt in these places does not delaminate and does not fluff.

Carefully, so as not to displace the loop, place the future puller on the anvil and use a hammer to clamp the belt into the slot. Then screw 3 bolts into the hexagon holes. They must have M6 thread. The DIY oil filter belt puller is ready for use. The procedure for using this key is as follows. We put the loop on the filter, and then begin to wind the belt around the hexagon. To unscrew, this should be done counterclockwise. When the belt is completely wound, you need to take a key (17 or 19), throw it on the hexagon and unscrew the filter.

If the belt option does not justify itself, we make a chain one

To make your own chain puller, you will need a piece of half-inch or inch used pipe with uncorroded, undamaged walls and a thread at one end. The length of the piece must be no less than the height of the filter. We select a suitable plug for the pipe so that it screws onto its thread. You'll also need a bicycle chain.

We drill a hole with a diameter of 9 mm in the center of the plug. Using a triangular file, we give it a square shape with our own hands. We carry out the processing until the dimensions of the hole are suitable for the ratchet wrench, or more precisely, for its end. The latter should fit into the resulting opening of the plug quite tightly, with almost no play. Screw the plug onto the end of the pipe and tighten it very tightly. To prevent it from unscrewing when using the puller, it is recommended to attach it to the pipe by welding.

As a last resort, you can try to crush the metal at the end of the thread using a dull chisel and hammer, but only carefully so as not to deform the pipe. We make markings on the pipe for drilling holes for the chain. To securely grip the filter, 2 pieces of it installed on the puller opposite the opposite ends of the cleaner are enough. But you can also make a 3rd hole, between the 2 outer ones, for another 1st chain. In this case, the puller will become more universal, as it will allow you to unscrew filters from various sizes in height.

Passing through one of drilled holes pipe chain, we put it around the filter in a loop, trying on how long the pieces will be needed. We measure out enough so that the puller, when unclamped, fits freely onto the cleaner. You can even make some supply of chain length for filters whose diameter is larger than that installed on the car. But we must take into account that it will be less convenient to work with such a puller. Along the measured length, we disassemble the chain into separate fragments - squeeze out the pins and separate the links at this point.

Having threaded the resulting sections through the holes in the pipe, we make loops out of them - we connect the links of the ends and press in the pins. To unscrew the filter, we put the puller loops on it and, if necessary, when the chains are too long, we manually turn the pipe counterclockwise, thereby removing the slack. Then we insert a ratchet wrench into the plug and with its help we begin to dismantle the purifier.

Despite the fairly large variety, construction market, tools for screwing or screwing together various pipe connections, experts pay special attention to the chain wrench. The chain wrench is a prominent representative of the manual metalworking tools, designed for installation of pipes or fittings in hard-to-reach places. Such equipment allows you to work in conditions where the use of a standard adjustable or sponge wrench is impossible.

Design Features

The simplicity of the chain wrench design makes it very convenient and quite easy to use. Any of its models consists of a clamping mechanism and a handle. The clamping mechanism includes a chain and jaws bolted to the handle. The main element in the design of a chain wrench is, of course, a monolithic metal handle. At one end of its base there is a threshold that serves as a kind of support for the pipes. There are special notches on the threshold that prevent the held pipes from twisting. The next important element is the chain. During operation, it wraps around the entire diameter of the workpiece. The chain is attached to the base of the key with a clamp that allows it to hold the tension created.

Special jaws and an adjustable flexible chain provide the necessary fixation of the pipes.

Due to the absence of any fixed elements in the design of the key, it is possible to carry out work in limited space.

To use a chain wrench, it will be enough if there is a distance between the structural parts and the pipe equal to the thickness of the chain. In operation, the chain encircles the perimeter of the desired product, and the threshold in this case acts as a special obstacle when sliding. In turn, the lock that fixes the chain in a given position prevents the initial grip of the pipe from weakening. Due to the uniform distribution of applied forces over the area of the product, the risk of various deformations or damage is eliminated.

The principle of operation of a chain wrench is as follows: a chain attached to the handle is thrown over the pipe and tightened tightly, pressing the jaws directly into the material. Then, when force is applied (pressure on the end of the handle), the key turns in the required direction. At the same time, the serrated ends of the “cheeks” roll over the product, ensuring its maximum clamping with subsequent self-braking. The chain in this case acts as a fixing element. Usually it comes with a reserve and can be easily changed if necessary.

Working with a chain wrench is simple, but you should remember a few simple rules:

thoroughly clean the teeth of any debris that has gotten into them before and after finishing work;
the use of any spacer materials between the pipe and the chain is strictly prohibited;
You should not extend the wrench lever with additional pipe sections. This may break its handle.

Use with caution this tool when working with parts with high parameters cleanliness of processing or with thin-walled pipes. Significant compression can lead to abrasion of surfaces or crumpling of the product.

The main materials used in the manufacture of chain wrenches are aluminum and steel. Keys made from high-strength steel will last a long time. To facilitate the design of the key, aluminum is additionally introduced into the composition, but this does not in any way affect strength characteristics. Aluminum allows you to reduce the total weight of the key by an average of 40%. Aluminum is often used in the production of handles.

Chain wrench specifications

The following main parameters are distinguished in the operation of a chain wrench:

the ability to use the tool in places with difficult access;
to carry out light loads, the wrench is equipped with a solid forged alloy steel handle and a special jaw;
the key works with any metal pipes various diameters;
for heavy loads, some chain wrench models have variable (double) jaws made of the same alloy steel. Such a wrench is considered indispensable when there is a need for a fairly rigid grip between the wrench and the pipe. In order to increase the amount of force applied, an extension lever can be additionally used. Depending on the nature of the work, the chain wrench can be modified by placing replaceable jaws in the structure.

As with any other locksmith tool, a very important factor is the quality of the chain wrench itself. Many people mistakenly believe that the main criterion for choosing a chain wrench is the permissible jaw size. However, it is not. When choosing a tool, you should base it on the quality of the key, especially on its handle and “cheeks”, since, as a rule, the responsibility rests on them most of all loads. It is very good if the key is made of high-strength steel. In the future, this will determine its wear resistance in operation. Also when choosing similar type equipment you should pay attention to brands worldwide famous manufacturers, which have long earned the trust of many consumers.

Today, both classic and lightweight key models are produced. Often standard models are characterized by greater weight than lightweight keys.

To the most famous brands which are in demand among buyers include chain wrenches RIDGID, REED, SPARTA and STAYER.

The most reliable keys known to professionals around the world are currently RIDGID. This company produces more than twenty types of different keys. The world leader's products are distinguished by high strength, reliable grip for pipes of different diameters, as well as an ergonomic handle and its length.

The choice of such a tool is quite wide, so you should definitely weigh all the pros and cons before choosing any particular manufacturer.

Hi all Dear friends! Today we will do something very simple and effective adaptation, which will certainly come in handy for people who do auto repair, plumbing, carpentry, etc. Such a thing may well come in handy in ordinary household life.

This simple contraption is a universal wrench that can unscrew anything. The wrench copes well with any diameter of nuts and bolts, and it also has excellent adhesion to any smooth surfaces such as a water pipe.
Compared to a universal gas wrench, this design has certain advantages. A gas wrench has only two engagement planes, which in turn can deform the part being unscrewed under strong pressure. Our tool has a “soft” grip due to contact along the entire plane of the part being unscrewed.
Test for wooden log. On the left is our universal key, and on the right is the gas key.

Also, due to the specificity of its design, this wrench is endowed with the ability to work as a universal wrench with a ratchet mechanism: preventing parts from scrolling in the desired direction and easily being thrown to the beginning in the opposite position.

To make such a universal key you need only two parts:

- Square metal profile 25x25, length 300 mm.
- Motorcycle chain 500 mm long.

Universal key assembly

Assembly is incredibly simple and will take you no more than 5 minutes including preparation.
All you need to do is weld one end of the chain to the metal profile. It is better to weld on both sides of the chain.
This completes the assembly. Universal key ready to use.

Using a universal key

Let's pass the second end of the chain into the center of the profile and you will get a ring that just needs to be put on the part that you want to unscrew.

In this tool, the chain is broken and the greater the lever force, the stronger the gripping force of the chain.
The key perfectly hooks both round and faceted objects. It doesn't make much difference to him whether it's a nut or a pipe.

Tests

Test key on a round pipe:

Sample wrench on hex nut:

The result in all cases is simply excellent. The grip is excellent. Doesn't turn anything around.
This miracle also perfectly unscrews plastic and polypropylene pipes, without significant deformation, which is so important when working with soft plastic.

This useful key won't take up much space in your car, garage or home. But it may definitely come in handy when you need it most.
So friends, feel free to make your own universal key. Be sure to watch the video of making and testing a universal key.

Ideally, the oil filter is screwed in by hand for removal when replacing in a similar way. In practice, drivers and service station employees overtighten the threads. There is a need for an oil filter puller to remove it.

The main problem is the poor location of the consumable element, the dense arrangement of units under the hood of the car, several standard sizes of filters and stuck to the ebb tide rubber seal, therefore, the most convenient device for removing the oil filter for a particular brand of car is selected.

Purpose of the puller

According to the car's operating manual, problems with how to unscrew the oil filter yourself cannot arise in principle:

When changing the oil, a new filter is installed;
the sealing rubber must be lubricated with lithol;
tighten the consumable element by hand;
tighten 1/3 turn with slight force.

In this case, the rubber sealing ring does not stick to the ebb of the engine housing; the filter can be removed by hand without a puller. In case of severe contamination of the housing, use a piece of sandpaper - the hand does not slip, the abrasive material ensures reliable grip of the palm on the filter housing.

These requirements are often violated by the users themselves:

there is no lubrication of the rubber ring; at high pressure and temperature it loses elasticity and sticks to the filter housing and the engine seating surface;
It is not clear for what purpose the car owner tightens the thread with both hands, tightening it and flattening the rubber seal.

Even in this case, you can try to do without a puller:

tap the rim in a circle on the side of the sealing ring to ensure its mobility relative to the filter housing or the ebb of the groove of the seating surface;
pierce the rubber seal with a narrow screwdriver, separating it from the low tide side.

In all other cases, you have to use special devices to twist this consumable item. Since access to the filter is difficult, and its outer size differs on different machines, the question of which puller is better, in principle, does not make sense for the following reasons:

there are turnkey or head pullers with their own handles;
some tools are made for a specific filter diameter;
other pullers have adjustable gripping devices of several sizes;
universal sliding devices are suitable for any passenger car filters.

To purchase or independently manufacture a specific puller model, you should familiarize yourself with the design of each of them.

Factory Puller Options

Tool made industrially, is usually more reliable than homemade. For the above reasons, manufacturers produce approximately ten versions of the oil filter puller. Moreover, for some of them the working parts have different size.

"Cup"

In fact, the oil filter puller cup is a large-sized die-cast head. The popularity of the design is due to the following factors:

on the outside, the filter housing has a multifaceted surface for a special key;
The cup is this key, it is easy to put on, even on a dirty filter, and prevents slipping.

The only drawback is the presence of several filter sizes. If a car enthusiast needs to buy a Cup of one specific size, then for a service station employee the best solution becomes a set of oil filter pullers:

By analogy with a set of heads, each Cup is placed in a separate nest;
the suitcase is convenient for transportation and storage;
besides that each Cup has custom size, the number of faces differs: 8, 12, 14, 15 and 30, respectively.

On the outside, the device is equipped with a recess for a square wrench or a hex nut. Some manufacturers combine these two options - a square hole is punched in the center of the hex nut. Sets and individual cups can be equipped with a spanner.

A special feature of this device is the minimal protrusion of the key behind outside diameter oil filter, so the puller is considered compact. The table below shows the marking of the tool depending on the size and number of edges:

When choosing and using a set, you should consider for which cars its individual tools are intended:

Diameter (mm)	Number of edges (pcs.)	Marking (vendor code)	Car manufacturer
93	36	4612	Mazda, Ford
76	30	4103	Jaguar, Land Rover
75	30	4668	Mazda, Ford
86	18	4670	Renault, Citroen, Peugeot
76	12	4669	Renault, Citroen, Peugeot
87	16	1522	BMW, Volvo
92	15	4104	Ford, Porsche, Opel, GM, Jaguar, Land Rover
82	15	1515	Nokia, Nundai
79	15	1403	Suzuki, Toyota, Nissan, Honda, Mitsubishi
75	15	4611	Land Rover, Volvo, Mazda, Ford
74	15	1521	Audi, Volkswagen
84	14	4695	CDL, Benz
74	14	1235	Kia, Nundai, Opel, Volkswagen, Audi, BMW, Benz
72,5	14	4667	Toyota
67	14	1021	Suzuki, Kia, Hyundai, Mazda, Mitsubishi, Ford
65	14	1114	Honda. Nissan, Toyota

Leading manufacturers mark the tool, packaging and corresponding sockets in diploma sets, so it is enough to measure the distance along the edges with a caliper to select the Cup required for the job. A package with one instrument, depending on the diameter, costs 350 – 900 rubles. The sets cost 3,000–8,000 rubles and contain 15–30 attachments, respectively.

"Crab"

Unlike the previous option, the Crab oil filter puller is a universal tool:

the legs are hinged between two plates;
automatically adjust to filter size;
There is a hex nut with a square hole on top.

The three-legged oil filter puller can be rotated with a universal or socket wrench and head, which is important in conditions of limited space when engine components and assemblies are densely placed.

The modification of the Crab with flat legs is completely identical to the tool with a clamping device made of a round bar, but costs 10 - 15% less.

The main advantages of the Crab design are:

versatility - one device is suitable for any filter size;
cost - cheaper than purchasing a set of Cups, but more expensive than one instrument of this type;
quality - all parts are stamped, which indicates a multiple margin of reliability;
resource - unlike Cups, there are no slots here, the legs practically do not wear out.

Crab costs between 500 - 1000 rubles, covers sizes 60 - 125 mm.

Chain

For ease of use, the oil filter chain puller is available in two versions:

In the first case, the handle has several protrusions for attaching a whip of a single or two-link chain. There is no need to select a free stroke; the turning begins immediately after applying force.

In the second option cylindrical part rigidly fixed in the chain break. When rotating, it first winds around this part, selecting free play, then it covers the filter slots, the force is transferred to the threaded connection of the consumable element of the internal combustion engine lubrication system.

A device with a handle is inconvenient in confined spaces, as it protrudes far beyond the part being unscrewed. The socket/wrench tool is more compact and is much easier to work with under the hood of the car.

The chain device is suitable for diameters 60 – 140 mm, costs on average 250 – 600 rubles.

Tape

To work with small in size from 30 mm, a belt oil filter puller is usually used, which has several designs:

stepper - for each filter diameter, a steel tape of a certain length is fixed to the handle;
with smooth adjustment of the clamp - the metal tape is pressed around the filter with a screw clamp;
textile - the tool is equipped with a nylon tape; it can refer to both belt and belt devices, although the design is similar to a turnkey chain puller.

The most popular step band clamp is the following design:

the handle is equipped with a fork with several mounting holes and a hinged bracket;
the kit includes 3 – 12 tapes for specific filter sizes, the ends of which are riveted into a tube;
when installing the tape, the tubes are placed between the holes in the handle fork and secured with pins;
free play is selected by moving the movable bracket;
on inner surface The steel tape has an anti-slip notch.

Depending on the number of tapes in the set, the tool costs 250–750 rubles and is intended for diameters of 30–140 mm.

The design of the puller with continuously adjustable clamping differs from the previous version:

a long piece of tape with an anti-slip notch is passed at both ends through an arched sole and secured to a nut;
in turn, the nut is screwed onto the thread of a bolt in a polymer handle, which is screwed into the sole from the outside.

Thus, the loop is placed on the filter housing, and the pivot stroke is selected with a bolt. After which, the same handle unscrews the threaded connection of the engine lubrication system consumable.

Instead of notches, the tape can be equipped with pieces of wire welded across it. The price of this tool is 200 - 500 rubles, the working size of the loop is 30 - 120 mm.

A budget option (issue price 150 – 250 rubles) is a clamp with a textile loop included, the design of which is identical to a chain puller for a head or a socket wrench.

Belt

The cheapest is considered to be a belt tool for unscrewing consumable parts of the internal combustion engine lubrication system. Typically it has the following structure:

cast handle with a pointed end bent outward, having a notch on the outer side of the arcuate part;
a bracket of two plates fixed near the bent end;
one end of the belt bent into a loop is secured to a bracket;
the second is wrapped around the filter, a loop is made at the free end, which is brought out through the bracket;
free play is selected due to the hinged fastening of the bracket;
The notch on the handle foot prevents the working loop from slipping.

You can buy a belt clamp for 300–500 rubles; the tool is suitable for diameters of 25–140 mm.

Sickle

A large-sized version of the universal adjustable wrench is called the oil filter puller Clamp. The design of the tool is extremely simple:

the handle bends in an arc, has a notch on the outside of the arc, and a hole at the beginning of the rounding;
There is no need to select the free stroke of the puller, since it immediately snaps onto the filter body according to size.

This tool is good for unscrewing heavily soiled, greasy oil filters, but only with normal access to this unit. It costs 200 - 300 rubles, suitable for sizes 60 - 120 mm.

"Ticks"

The oil filter puller Pincers got the name because of the similar shape of the working body. This tool is considered universal, but is suitable for a limited number of filter sizes:

in the place where the handles are hinged, an oval groove is cut, similar to universal pliers, for stepwise changes in the arc of coverage of the jaws;
the inner surface is equipped with a notch;
the handles have polymer or silicone tips.

The device is ideal for individual entrepreneurs who decided to start their own business and opened a car service center. There is no need to look for a place for storage; the most popular sizes are 85 - 115 mm and 60 - 90 mm at a price of 450 - 850 rubles.

For work in confined spaces, pliers with two levels of adjustment are created. In addition to stepwise adjustment of the diameter of the jaws, they have a hinge mechanism that allows you to change the plane of the handles relative to the working body by 90 degrees in both directions.

For large service stations servicing foreign cars, the 53 - 118 mm pliers modification is more suitable, suitable for a wide range of internal combustion engine models of automotive vehicles.

Sliding Cup Clamp

By analogy with the Cup and Crab, a universal puller of this type can be turned with a head, an open-end wrench and a spanner. It does not slip on filters, even if oil is spilled on their surface. The design differs from all previously discussed modifications:

the bowl is assembled from two parts that move relative to each other along a horizontal axis;
A rocker assembly is assembled from three plates, which has a hexagonal nut in the upper part with a square hole in the center.

The operating principle of the tool is as follows:

the device is installed on the filter;
when transmitting rotation from the key or head, the scenes shift;
the edges of the parts from which the cup is assembled cut into the filter slots;
unscrewing is done.

The purchase budget is 500 - 900 rubles, the tool is suitable for filters with a diameter of 60 - 120 mm with any number of slots.

Homemade puller

After familiarizing yourself with industrial options special tool makes it easier to understand how to make an oil filter puller on our own. To do this you need to select simple design devices, and copy it for personal use. The main nuances are:

Making Crab and Cup parts at home will be more expensive than buying a tool in a store;
Usually scrap materials, waste from cutting rolled metal, fasteners, used tow rope tape and consumable belts are used;
the device should be easy to use, then you can unscrew the filter quickly;
there is no need to copy the entire linear series, because a specific internal combustion engine uses one filter size.

The most popular homemade options are discussed below.

Chain

To build a chain oil filter puller on your own, you will need the following materials:

a piece of double-row chain, for example, a bicycle chain, slightly longer than the diameter of the filter (2 - 4 plus links);
hexagon 5 - 7 cm long of any size for a standard key.

The chain can be welded to the hexagon or first rivet it into a loop, weld a piece of rolled metal from the inside anywhere. The work will take 15 - 30 minutes, you will need a hammer and a welding machine.

In the absence of a piece of rolled metal, you can take an adapter shank for a cone drill. In this case you will have to sharpen top part Full construction.

A piece of tube flattened at one end will eliminate the need for welding. To do this, insert the edges of the chain into the flattened end of the tube, drill a hole to fix it inside, for example, with a nail or screw through.

Belt

If you use a belt loop, you can pull out the oil filter yourself even faster:

a piece of belt, preferably with transverse slots, wraps around the filter with the smooth side;
the ends are passed through the hole spanner wrench suitable size;
When rotating, the belt splines prevent it from slipping into the key eye.

The material has sufficient roughness and elasticity to transmit torque without tearing or twisting.

If done in socket head slot, place a similar piece of belt in it, it will turn out more convenient device for working in confined spaces.

Tape

In the garage, unscrewing the oil filter consumable element can be done with a piece of used tow rope made of nylon tape. In principle, the handles of bags and backpacks are suitable, which allows you to avoid investing additional funds in repairs.

The characteristics of the tape are slightly inferior to the belts, but they have a similar shape, so it is logical that all keys are made using the same technologies. The most popular end puller is:

a groove is cut in the hexagon, bolt, socket head;
2 through holes are drilled for screws;
The edges of the tape are laid and fixed with screws or rivets.

The adapter for a cone drill already has a groove, but in hardened metal it is difficult to drill holes for fixing the belt with screws, so you can sew a ring from this material, pass one edge through the hole, and insert an improvised fastener made of a nail or wire on the other side.

This will not change the principle of operation of the key; it’s just that at the moment of selecting free play, this locking element must be held until the tape is fully tensioned.

Clamping

This homemade device copied from Cup. However, at home it is difficult to make slots on the inside of the pipe, so the tool is secured to the filter body with a clamping screw. The top arcuate plate is welded to the tubular spool to secure the hex socket/wrench nut.

Due to the simple design of the key, no drawing is required; just cut a piece of pipe from internal diameter slightly larger than a filter, about 5 cm long. When top position You can use a homemade nut puller even in a confined space.

Key puller

A more technically complex wrench for removing the oil filter is made from a rod and a pipe coil:

the coil is cut through;
the cutting width is 3 mm minimum;
Rods with a diameter of 12 mm and a length of 15 cm are welded near the cut.

This homemade key is an analogue of Pincers or Sickle. It is less convenient in limited space compared to the end modification of the puller. Long handles interfere with rotation near units under the hood of the car.

In conclusion, some good advice: the puller is used exclusively for unscrewing the filter. There is no need to tighten the consumable with it after changing the oil, so I use this tool in exceptional cases, however, it pays for itself already in the first year of operation of the car.

Thus, it is better to buy or make a device for unscrewing the oil filter in advance, without waiting for the replacement of the oil/filter set according to the engine maintenance schedule.

If you have any questions, leave them in the comments below the article. We or our visitors will be happy to answer them

Despite the fairly large variety in the construction market of tools for screwing or screwing together various pipe connections, experts pay special attention to the chain wrench. A chain wrench is a prominent representative of a hand-held plumbing tool designed for installation of pipes or fittings in hard-to-reach places. Such equipment allows you to work in conditions where the use of a standard adjustable or sponge wrench is impossible.

Design Features

Special jaws and an adjustable flexible chain provide the necessary fixation of the pipes.

Due to the absence of any fixed elements in the design of the key, it is possible to carry out work in confined spaces.

Working with a chain wrench is simple, but you should remember a few simple rules:

thoroughly clean the teeth of any debris that has gotten into them before and after finishing work;
the use of any spacer materials between the pipe and the chain is strictly prohibited;
You should not extend the wrench lever with additional pipe sections. This may break its handle.

This tool must be used with caution when working with parts with high finishing parameters or with thin-walled pipes. Significant compression can lead to abrasion of surfaces or crumpling of the product.

The main materials used in the manufacture of chain wrenches are aluminum and steel. Keys made from high-strength steel will last a long time. To facilitate the design of the key, aluminum is additionally introduced into the composition, but this does not in any way affect the strength characteristics. Aluminum allows you to reduce the total weight of the key by an average of 40%. Aluminum is often used in the production of handles.

Chain wrench specifications

The following main parameters are distinguished in the operation of a chain wrench:

the ability to use the tool in places with difficult access;
to carry out light loads, the wrench is equipped with a solid forged alloy steel handle and a special jaw;
the wrench works with any metal pipes of various diameters;
for heavy loads, some chain wrench models have variable (double) jaws made of the same alloy steel. Such a wrench is considered indispensable when there is a need for a fairly rigid grip between the wrench and the pipe. In order to increase the amount of force applied, an extension lever can be additionally used. Depending on the nature of the work, the chain wrench can be modified by placing replaceable jaws in the structure.

As with any other locksmith tool, a very important factor is the quality of the chain wrench itself. Many people mistakenly believe that the main criterion for choosing a chain wrench is the permissible jaw size. However, it is not. When choosing a tool, you should base it on the quality of the key, especially on its handle and “cheeks”, since, as a rule, most of the loads are placed on them. It is very good if the key is made of high-strength steel. In the future, this will determine its wear resistance in operation. Also, when choosing this type of equipment, you should pay attention to the trademarks of world-famous manufacturers that have long earned the trust of many consumers.

Today, both classic and lightweight key models are produced. Often standard models are characterized by greater weight than lightweight keys.

The most famous brands that are in demand among customers include chain wrenches RIDGID, REED, SPARTA and STAYER.

The choice of such a tool is quite wide, so you should definitely weigh all the pros and cons before choosing any particular manufacturer.

Design Features

Special jaws and an adjustable flexible chain provide the necessary fixation of the pipes.

Due to the absence of any fixed elements in the key design, it is possible to carry out work in confined spaces.

Working with a chain wrench is simple, but you should remember a few simple rules:

thoroughly clean the teeth of any debris that has gotten into them before and after finishing work;
the use of any spacer materials between the pipe and the chain is strictly prohibited;
You should not extend the wrench lever with additional pipe sections. This may break its handle.

The main materials used in the manufacture of chain wrenches are aluminum and steel. Keys made from high-strength steel will last a long time. To facilitate the design of the key, aluminum is additionally introduced into the composition, but this does not in any way affect the strength characteristics. Aluminum allows you to reduce the total weight of the key by an average of 40%. Aluminum is often used in the production of handles.

Chain wrench specifications

The following main parameters are distinguished in the operation of a chain wrench:

the ability to use the tool in places with difficult access;
to carry out light loads, the wrench is equipped with a solid forged alloy steel handle and a special jaw;
the wrench works with any metal pipes of various diameters;
for heavy loads, some chain wrench models have variable (double) jaws made of the same alloy steel. Such a wrench is considered indispensable when there is a need for a fairly rigid grip between the wrench and the pipe. In order to increase the amount of force applied, an extension lever can be additionally used. Depending on the nature of the work, the chain wrench can be modified by placing replaceable jaws in the structure.

As with any other locksmith tool, a very important factor is the quality of the chain wrench itself. Many people mistakenly believe that the main criterion for choosing a chain wrench is the permissible jaw size. However, it is not. When choosing a tool, you should base it on the quality of the key, especially on its handle and “cheeks”, since, as a rule, most of the loads are placed on them. It is very good if the key is made of high-strength steel. In the future, this will determine its wear resistance in operation. Also, when choosing this type of equipment, you should pay attention to the trademarks of world-famous manufacturers that have long earned the trust of many consumers.

Today, both classic and lightweight key models are produced. Often standard models are characterized by greater weight than lightweight keys.

The most famous brands that are in demand among customers include chain wrenches RIDGID, REED, SPARTA and STAYER.

The choice of such a tool is quite wide, so you should definitely weigh all the pros and cons before choosing any particular manufacturer.

Hello everyone dear friends! Today we will make a very simple and effective device, which will certainly be useful to people who do auto repair, plumbing, carpentry, etc. Such a thing may well be useful in ordinary household life.

This simple contraption is a universal wrench that can unscrew anything. The wrench handles any diameter of nuts and bolts perfectly, and it also has excellent adhesion to any smooth surfaces, such as a water pipe.
Compared to a universal gas wrench, this design has certain advantages. A gas wrench has only two engagement planes, which in turn can deform the part being unscrewed under strong pressure. Our tool has a “soft” grip due to contact along the entire plane of the part being unscrewed.
Test on a wooden log. On the left is our universal key, and on the right is the gas key.

To make such a universal key you need only two parts:

- Square metal profile 25x25, length 300 mm.
- Motorcycle chain 500 mm long.

Universal key assembly

Assembly is incredibly simple and will take you no more than 5 minutes along with preparation.
All you need to do is weld one end of the chain to the metal profile. It is better to weld on both sides of the chain.
This completes the assembly. The universal key is ready for use.

Using a universal key

Let's pass the second end of the chain into the center of the profile and you will get a ring that just needs to be put on the part that you want to unscrew.

Tests

Test key on a round pipe:

Sample wrench on hex nut:

In order for its transmission to serve for a long time and not create problems, it is worth periodically cleaning and lubricating the chain, and also changing it approximately every 10-15 thousand kilometers. Replacing a chain on a motorcycle is considered a rather complex operation, and many experts recommend that such a problem be addressed to a specialized service station. However, you can change the chain yourself, saving a lot of money. This type of work does not require any special technical skills, but there are many nuances to it. By following the recommendations given in the article, you can achieve reliability and durability of your motorcycle’s transmission.

Tools

To work with the chain you will need a fairly extensive list of tools. The most important tool in this case will be a special chain riveter - such devices are produced by many companies, so finding one will be relatively easy. The cost of the tool varies between 1000-5000 rubles depending on the manufacturer and the grade of steel used. From some experienced craftsmen we hear that the riveter is successfully replaced with a hammer, chisel and core. This point of view is completely erroneous - it will not be possible to achieve a reliable connection of the chain with their help, and, most likely, it will soon break.

In addition, replacing sprockets and chain will require the following tools:

Torque wrench with comfortable handle;
Set of keys and sockets;
Compact grinder with a diamond blade for metal;
Grease as well as cleaner and chain cleaner.

Dismantling

To significantly facilitate the installation of a new chain, it is worth cutting the existing transmission mechanism. Some motorcycle models have a special device called a Chain Breaker - just lower it onto the chain and clamp it to knock the pin out of it. If it is missing, the chain can be riveted using the punch included in the riveting kit. However, experienced mechanics say that such a tool breaks too easily, and advise first sawing off the pin heads with a grinder. After this, it will be very easy to break the link - if you do not have all the above tools, you can cut the chain with a hacksaw, although such work will take a lot of time.

If you are wondering how to change a chain using a special tool, then you should know that. A bushing for cutting the chain is installed in the riveter's clamping mechanism, after which it is combined with a pin with a sawn head. The clamping bolt is tightened with a pre-prepared torque wrench with a force of 10-12 Nm. All that remains is to insert the punch and screw it in until the pin falls out and the chain breaks.

Installation

Now you need to install a special attachment in the tool for riveting the pins. Press it against the surface of the chain - it is almost impossible to miss, since the tool has a special recess that makes aiming easier. Using a torque wrench, tighten the clamp bolt until the end of free play. Depending on the chain manufacturer, this value can be in the range of 15-20 Nm, but you should focus on a sharp increase in the required force to turn the bolt. Do not try to overtighten the bolt, as this will cause the lock to lose mobility, which will lead to accelerated wear of the transmission.

Ending

The next step will be to adjust the chain - it is normal for the transmission mechanism to sag by 25-35 mm. Depending on what kind of mechanism is used on your motorcycle, you may need to move the axle through a special slot, controlling it using adjusting bolts, or turn the eccentric device. Once you have the desired level of sag, tighten the rear axle nuts and make sure the rear wheel is completely locked.

If you purchased the wrong chain model and need to know how to shorten it, you should use the recommendations above. Using a punch, break the mechanism and remove the required number of links from it. After this, carefully lubricate all components and install the splines, not forgetting the oil seals and rollers of the friction pairs. However, such an operation should be performed only as a last resort - before purchasing a chain, you need to check whether it is suitable for a particular motorcycle model.

Hard work

Most car enthusiasts believe that an oil filter puller is a useless tool that, if anyone should have it, only car service workers should have it. Drivers who have already encountered a problem when changing the engine oil on their own, when it is impossible to unscrew the filter manually, have already acquired a suitable puller. Selecting this tool is not so easy: there are many modifications offered on the market, but not all of them will be suitable for servicing a specific car model.

Types of industrially manufactured pullers

Depending on the design features and size of the filter, pullers of one type or another are used to unscrew it. Their body or base is usually made of steel and is protected with a matte or silver chrome finish. A number of products, if provided for by the design, have plastic linings on the handles, which greatly simplifies the work with such a tool.

Among the first, the following main types are distinguished:

crab;
belt;
chain;
tape;
sickle-shaped and tick-shaped;
with 2 adjustable grips.

Only one type of tool is classified as narrow-profile - cup oil filter pullers. They received this name for their appearance, reminiscent of the kitchen appliance of the same name.

Design and method of use of the cup puller

Auto repair shop owners immediately purchase entire sets of these pullers, including up to 30 wrenches for filters of various diameters. Such sets are supplied with a suitcase in which the cups are conveniently arranged by size numbers.

“Cup” pullers have a square hole in their “bottom” for the tip of a socket wrench. Some manufacturers additionally make a hexagonal “bottom” - for a spanning tool. Many pullers, primarily their sets, are supplied with a tip for the “cup” hole, onto which the key is placed, and some are complete with all the necessary tools, including a socket and socket.

Details about the universal “crab”

The “crab” puller consists of two plates, which are the body, and 3 grippers installed between them. There are notches on the working surface of the paws that prevent them from sliding over the surface of the filter. The grips are controlled by a clamping mechanism located in the middle of the crab body and between the rotary mounts of the legs.

Depending on the “crab” model, it can be used to remove and install filters with a diameter ranging from 60–125 mm. This puller, like the “cup”, is very good when working in narrow and confined spaces.

What do you need to know about other pullers?

Do-it-yourself belt puller - nothing could be easier

If the belt option does not justify itself, we make a chain one

As a last resort, you can try to crush the metal at the end of the thread using a dull chisel and hammer, but only carefully so as not to deform the pipe. We make markings on the pipe for drilling holes for the chain. To securely grip the filter, 2 pieces of it installed on the puller opposite the opposite ends of the cleaner are enough. But you can also make a 3rd hole, between the 2 outer ones, for another 1st chain. In this case, the puller will become more versatile, as it will allow you to unscrew filters with different height sizes.

Having threaded a chain through one of the drilled holes in the pipe, we loop it around the filter, trying out how long the pieces will be needed. We measure out enough so that the puller, when unclamped, fits freely onto the cleaner. You can even make some supply of chain length for filters whose diameter is larger than that installed on the car. But we must take into account that it will be less convenient to work with such a puller. Along the measured length, we disassemble the chain into separate fragments - squeeze out the pins and separate the links at this point.

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