How to store socket heads. Homemade magnetic key holder. Materials and fasteners
Hello to all DIY lovers!
However, in addition to open-end wrenches, to work with threaded fasteners, it is often necessary to use socket heads. So I decided to make a wall holder for them too.
I must say that I have this set of socket heads with a key and a plastic holder.
However, the problem is that while some heads are quite difficult to remove from the holes in this holder, others, on the contrary, barely hold on and sometimes fall out, since the holes for them are already loose. And the dimensions indicated on the sides of the heads are not at all visible due to the high walls of the holder. Practice has shown that this holder is convenient to take with you if necessary, but it is not very convenient for working in the workshop.
Reflecting on various options homemade wall holder, I first decided to focus on the seemingly optimal option, in which the socket heads are simply inserted into holes drilled in the board.
However, since the diameters of adjacent heads do not differ very much (literally by 0.5-2 mm), it is very difficult to select drills or crowns for wood to drill holes for them.
Of course, it was possible to bore some of the holes using a round wood file, but then I came up with a better idea.
I decided to make a holder where the sockets would simply slide onto the vertical pins. Moreover, as such pins, you can use screws with plastic tubes put on them. Naturally, making such a holder is also much simpler than a holder with holes.
So, to make such a holder, I needed the following supplies:
Materials and fasteners:
A wooden plank 1.5-2 cm thick, 4.5 cm wide, and about 30 cm long;
- Nine screws 3x35 mm;
Two wood screws 4x60 mm;
Plastic straws.
Tools:
Drawing and measuring tools (pencil, tape measure and square);
A jigsaw with a file for shaped cutting;
Electric drill-screwdriver;
Metal drill with a diameter of 2.5 mm;
Metal drill with a diameter of 4 mm;
Spherical cutter for wood;
Hole saw for wood, diameter 19 mm;
Semicircular chisel;
Scissors;
Screwdriver bits PZ1 and PH2, for driving screws;
Sandpaper.
Manufacturing process
First, we mark the wooden plank - the future holder, prick the centers of the future holes for the pins-screws with an awl and drill the holes themselves (can be through), with a diameter of 2.5 mm.
Then hole saw, saw through a blind hole with a diameter of 19 mm for the key.
Use a semicircular chisel to clean out this hole, removing excess wood.
We drill across the plank, two holes with a diameter of 4 mm, for long wood screws, for subsequent fastening of our holder to the wall.
We countersink these holes with a spherical wood cutter for screw heads.
Then we use scissors to cut pieces of plastic tubes that we will put on the screws. The length of each piece is approximately 25 mm.
I took plastic straws from used bottles of liquid soap.
Now we put a piece of tube on each screw.
And we screw these screws in in advance drilled holes with a diameter of 2.5 mm, until the plastic tubes are pressed tightly (but do not overtighten).
Here I would like to especially note that it is necessary to use screws with small heads (no more than 6 mm in diameter), otherwise the socket heads will not fit on them.
Then we carry out all the necessary cutting operations with a jigsaw. That is, we cut out a groove in the key hole, and also cut out the holder itself and round off its ends.
After this, we process our holder with sandpaper, paying special attention to the edges and ends.
And now our holder is almost ready!
All that remains is to stick labels on it with the inscriptions of the head sizes, for greater ease of use.
These labels can be made on a computer and printed using a printer, then cut out and taped to the holder.
Now it is very convenient to remove the socket heads and put them on the holder pins. And they hold very securely and will never fall.
In addition, thanks to the plastic tubes on the screw pins, the socket heads are put on very softly and smoothly and do not get scratched.
Well, that’s probably all I have!
Bye for everyone, more useful and necessary homemade products!
Due to a leak water pipe there was a need to cut the thread on the 20th pipe by 1/2. The die was purchased for 230 rubles, in principle reasonable money, a visit to a plumber would have been more expensive:
And then a problem arose: how to rotate it, how to grab it? Ready-made die holders for 45 with a ratchet cost under 1000 rubles. It is not advisable to buy for 1-2 cut threads. I began to think of options, settled on this one, we bought a 22 socket head (cost 60 rubles):
And use a grinder to saw through the teeth according to the size of the holes in the die:
It turns out this cool design:
A grinder can be used to process a socket head without any problems, but you have to cut it slowly and remove it in the places where the die rests. The resulting fastening turned out to be very reliable; to rotate the socket head I used a faulty torque wrench with a half-meter-long ratchet:
There are 2 disadvantages to the design. The first drawback is that the holes in the die are not used for their intended purpose, they are just for removing chips, so when cutting threads, at a minimum, you need to regularly remove the socket head, and, at a maximum, unscrew the die more often. The second drawback is that due to the fact that the force is applied to the die with a displacement of a couple of centimeters from the thread, and the force there is quite large, the thread itself turns out to be inclined relative to the pipe, in the case of a thin pipe this will lead to cutting a hole in the pipe, that is, the thread will fit into the pipe. To minimize this effect, alternate the application of force in opposite positions of the key. For leisurely cutting of 2-3 threads, the design is quite suitable.
In winter, doing carpentry in an unheated workshop is below average pleasure. But my hands are itching. Therefore, I decided to implement a weekend project related to more rough work- install a tool panel next to the workbench.
Place for the future panel:
This problem can be solved using perforated panels (made of tin or HDF) or economy panels (MDF with grooves along the entire length). On thematic forums you can often find topics in which people brag about their workshops equipped with such panels. It looks really impressive.
But this option is not suitable for everyone. Despite the fact that the panels themselves are not cheap, you also need to buy additional hangers and hooks, the total cost of which will be many times higher than the cost of the panel itself. In addition, the ease of use of hooks that do not have a rigid fixation raises questions. And it’s not clear how to attach some kind of homemade plywood hanger to such a panel?
Let me give you an example.
You see in the photo a red gas key with narrow hole in the pen? If you accidentally push it up a little while removing it, the hook may jump off the panel. Well, or the hook will need to be corrected. A trifle, of course, but you will have to divert time (even if only for a split second), attention and a second hand, which will most likely be busy. Of course, you can try to remove the gas key carefully so that it does not catch anything, but does this hook require too much attention?
The same thing will most likely happen when you try to remove pliers with red and blue handles. Because the rubber handles will catch on the bracket like a Morse taper.
Although, of course, I could be wrong and my doubts are in vain.
One more detail - hangers for just a pair of pliers and a pair of hammers will cost almost 500 rubles. As they say, so count it.
I am for simple and reliable solutions. Therefore, it was decided to use a sheet of ordinary 15 mm plywood as a panel. As hangers and hooks, you can use ordinary self-tapping screws of various lengths at a cost of two kopecks per kilogram, which will not go anywhere without your persistent desire. The same self-tapping screws can be used to fix any homemade suspension. In this case, the length of the part of the screw protruding from the panel can be precisely adjusted locally by screwing the screw into the plywood even right through. But for this there must be a gap between the plywood and the wall.
The gap can be made using plastic washers for perforated panels. But it is safer to install the panel on a specially welded frame. This will level out the unevenness of the wall, add rigidity to the entire structure and allow you to set a gap of any size.
Of course, this method is also not free and not so glamorous, but it is much more practical.
I think few people are interested in the welding process. The result is important. The frame is welded from my favorite fiftieth corner. All mounting holes are 8 mm.
We align the frame on a sheet of plywood and mark the fastening points.
The holes in the plywood are a couple of millimeters wider than on the frame to level out minor inaccuracies.
Painted the frame car paint from a can. Color - Snow Queen (metallic). The instructions say that the paint should be applied at a temperature environment not lower than +15. However, there is no heating in the workshop and we had to paint at -1. This did not affect the quality of the coating. Most likely, the only difference is the drying time.
The frame is attached to the wall with eight 8x80 dowels. The fact is that the inter-garage wall on which the panel is planned to be installed is only half a brick thick. As planned, a large number of attachment points should evenly distribute the load. In addition, some of the dowels got caught between the bricks, so their reliability is lower.
Now, looking at the finished result, I understand that it was possible to get by with half the dowels. But here it’s better to be safe than sorry.
The plywood sheet is attached to the frame with thirteen 8x45 anchors.
Anchors are great for this task. To tighten a regular nut and bolt, you need access to both the nut and the bolt. But when the frame is already fixed to the wall, such access is not possible (especially when attaching plywood to the middle crossbar of the frame). But the anchor requires access from only one front side.
I can't even imagine what could go wrong. The only trouble that can theoretically happen with such a connection is if the nut and the edge of the hole in the corner bite through the anchor sleeve. But this is unlikely. Therefore, this connection seems very reliable to me.
When the panel is ready, you can begin to place the tool. First in line is the sledgehammer. Not having her own place, she was constantly getting in the way. At the same time, the prospect of using it in my workshop is vague. But you can’t throw it away either. It's a tool! Therefore, I quickly welded a special bracket for it,
I decorated it all with spray paint
and placed it in the farthest corner under the ceiling. Finally, I will stop tripping over her and she is always available when needed.
A powerful frame and a large number of attachment points allow you not to think about the permissible load on the panel.
The panel area is slightly larger square meter- not a little and there is some reserve.
I installed the same tool panels in my country garage a few years ago. I used exactly the same anchors. The idea to weld a frame under the panel was born there - this is due to the design of the walls. But the idea caught on.
All these years I just couldn't be happier with the panels. At the dacha I don’t use the tool very often, so I forget something. Sometimes it was easier to buy new tool than to find an old one in the rubble. That's why I have several building levels, several plumb lines, gas keys, axes and other things. Of course, everything will come in handy on the farm. But now I always know exactly and won’t forget what tools I have, how many and where it is. The first few weeks you need to get used to the fact that every thing should have its own place. And when it becomes a habit, working in the workshop ceases to be a constant search. the right tool and tripping over unnecessary things.
In short, I recommend it.
The whole job took one and a half days off. It was possible to do one, but without painting (I had to take a break to let the paint dry). Overall, I'm pleased with the result.
In this article I will tell you how the author made a useful device in the form of a holder for key heads. Since storing tools, namely small parts, for example, heads for keys or bolts, can be difficult, so this idea was implemented. Professionals purchase tools separately and store them in a special case, but this extra costs. So, why not make a homemade magnetic key holder, which can be a good replacement for the most inexpensive storage option. Another plus is that each individual head will be kept in its rightful place and you won’t be afraid of losing them during transportation.
To do this useful homemade product, materials needed:
*Program for designing a vector image (Corel Draw).
*Laser cutter.
*Board thickness 130 mm, 5 x 20 cm (poplar).
*Board thickness 64 mm, 5 x 40 cm (walnut).
*Magnetic strip 40 cm long.
*Epoxy resin.
*Sandpaper.
*Acrylic lacquer.
Step one. Creating a project in Corel Draw
First, you need to create a sample from which this holder blank will be laser cut. To do this, you need to have at least some basic skills in constructing vector images.
First do required amount circles In the process, they will become holes into which the heads for the keys will be inserted. Make the circles with a free play allowance of + 0.05 cm so that during use you can easily insert your heads into the finished cells.
Place the circles evenly, keeping a gap of a few millimeters between them. When all the circles are ready, mark the outline of a rectangle around them, which will be the basis. The angles can be different, both regular and curly, as in our project.
Step two. Development of the framework
After the cover, you need to develop the base. The shape will be the same - rectangular with curly corners, like the passage after milling. Black dividing stripes must be applied in place of the circles. The width of the strip should correspond to the diameter of the largest circle. The lines on the base layout must be drawn in black so that the laser does not cut them out, but engraves them.
Step three. Creating the main part
The layout for the main part of the holder is essentially also ready (similar to the first step). But from the side it will look especially different. For better usefulness and information content, we mark the dimensions of the heads on the end part of the holder. We do this in any convenient place, the main thing is that the sizes match.
Step four. Cutting
In this step, according to the prepared layouts, the holder blanks are cut out, of which we have three.
The process is very long and requires patience.
Step five. Grinding
All finished parts must be sanded with sandpaper. To do this, use it to erase all the irregularities and flaws.
Step six. Side engraving
We take the widest poplar blank and engrave it with numbers.
Step seven: Gluing magnetic stripes
We cut the strip magnet into strips and glue it to the base of the holder. Magnets of this type have an adhesive base, but to ensure secure fastening it is better to additionally coat them with epoxy resin. After everything is covered with glue, for better strength, press them with a press for 5 - 10 minutes. Be careful when gluing.
Step eight. Gluing all parts of the holder
By using epoxy resin We coat all parts of the workpiece and glue them together, then press it with a press for a couple of tens of minutes.
