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Sealing monolithic areas between floor slabs. Technology of a monolithic section between floor slabs. Materials and tools needed for work

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I need to fill the area between two hollow core slabs, let’s discuss how to do this correctly?

There are two 6 meter hollow core slabs, lie parallel, but there is a distance of 1.15 meters between them. I want to make an entrance to the basement, and a 4x1.15 meter area needs to be filled with concrete.

Here's what I found on the Internet:

- the main material for work, channel 24cm. (to fit on 22 cm hollow core slabs)

— we put two 4 meter channels on the slabs

— we split it apart with two sections of channel 1.15 each and weld it all together. You will get a box around the perimeter of the area to be filled.

— We weld a grid of 12 reinforcement bars to the channel, this will be the bottom layer of the area to be poured. The cage in this lattice is 20 cm.

— We weld the lattice of the upper layer of the poured area to the channel, probably from 10 reinforcement bars.

- We put the formwork from below.

- fill everything with concrete to the height of the slabs.

I think everything is correct? Some points confuse me:

This entire piece of reinforced concrete will hang on reinforcement welded to the channel. Will it hold up? The diameter of the fittings... is it enough or not? different in diameter in layers or not? Is a 20 cm cage enough or not?

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Well, if you have nowhere to put the money

Have you seen the prices for such a channel?

I would make cheeks from a corner of 50-60

they are also transverse. reinforced with 12 reinforcement (this is what comes in the slabs).

and when it was monolid with concrete, it wouldn’t go anywhere.

and here's what they google:

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I poured 2x2.5 meters between the slab and the wall. Up to the stairwell to the 2nd floor. I installed PB partition walls 10 cm thick and 3 m high on the monolith. He stands still for 3 years...

I made holes in 2 rows in the slab and wall using a hammer drill. in the slab under the top and bottom above/below the reinforcement, i.e. the holes came out from the top/bottom of the voids in the slab. a step of about 12-15 cm in height x 15-20 cm in width was obtained. I welded 12 reinforcements to these reinforcements and made, as in a foundation, a reinforcement cage in a cube, i.e. I also welded both planes with vertical jumpers. I checked it before pouring, jumping on the reinforcement frame with a bag of cement on my shoulders, the picture was probably the same. Well, then the formwork from the bottom and sides, I filled everything with homemade concrete, watered it for 2 days, then it dried on its own…. a week later, it was boring earlier, I removed the formwork.... everything turned out to be reinforced concrete

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he is also a monument... The slab is hollow, the thickness of the side is well 3 cm, if you aim at the top/bottom it’s 5-7 cm... and then there’s a hole... Well, if you’re really hungry, it’s better to overdo it…. as they say, punch to the second void and hammer in the rod the entire length….

Are you guys okay? Take a closer look at the side of the stove. What you will see there is a correct indentation. What is it for? It’s right for creating dowels. No channels or holes in the slabs. Bring the formwork from below to the slabs and if you look closely, you get a trough between the slabs. Lay the nets from the bottom and top and fill the slab and fsyo. The whole thing will hang on the adjacent slabs, and the dowels will prevent the thing from falling.

I don’t think it takes a lot of brains to lay out the formwork. Place the beams directly on the slabs, and hang the formwork shield from them with twists, tightly against the slabs.

Do you think at construction sites someone is making holes in the slabs or welding the channel. ???????????????

It's kind of scary. Still, I’m building it for myself. The plot is 4x1.15 meters, it will take 1 cubic meter of concrete and reinforcement - the weight of the entire structure will be around 2.5 tons.

And all this without fastening? They also say the slabs can sag by 1-2cm...

Nope, the option without fastening is not our way at all...

One key carries about 6 tons, if my memory serves me correctly. Whenever we design a MU device at home, it’s a fairly common practice. Their construction uses only concrete and reinforcement and no channels or drilling of slabs.

Once the concrete sets, everything will stand together and will not fall anywhere, believe me.

Actually it's up to you

If according to MU there are no partitions, then you can simply fill it with concrete, but not to the full height, 12-15 cm is enough. Just place the formwork higher than the bottom of the slabs. Lay the reinforcement every 20-25 cm, you can punch holes right in the sidewall of the slabs, they are already marked there, and insert the reinforcement.

It is better to throw a masonry mesh on the bottom of the concrete. You need little reinforcement, the main thing is the mesh at the bottom.

I poured a MU (monolithic section) 3.5 * 2 meters, thickness 10 cm, with a partition on top. Nothing fell or cracked. It is better to make the concrete stronger, grade 250-300 (a cube like 6-7 bags should yield cement)

If you're scared, look at how it's built landing V residential buildings, size 1.50*2*20 thickness 6 cm, frame mesh of 5mm reinforcement with a cell of 15*15 cm. I looked at this at the factory.

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What's the point of such a thin design? Lighten the weight? or make your work easier? I don't understand yet...

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because anyway, then pull out the ceiling of the 1st floor, level the floor of the second, then that’s what it will do..... it’s just that this ipatorium will be later

Jurij Pralna says - in the side of the slab there are round recesses (the top/bottom of which was drilled into) when pouring, this cow (MU) will have a serious snag with the slabs... Here I just want to add that all my plates are welded together so that didn't move relative to each other. The ears to which the crane is attached were scalded with fittings... Just in case there was an earthquake or something else

this is called anchoring the slabs, the slabs are pulled together with twist anchors and the whole thing is welded to the hinges in the slab. The slabs are anchored not only to each other but also to the walls by placing one end of the anchor into the wall and the other end is also welded to the loop. The slabs are anchored one at a time in increments of no more than 3 m.

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Drilling is an extra ipatorium. Serious engagement with the slabs occurs due to the dowels. MU must be poured to the entire height of the slab, that is, 220 mm.

A very useful collection - I’m thinking about it now - how simple it turns out. At first I thought that I needed to drill into the edges of the opposing slabs and insert reinforcement there - but here it is.

What did you do at your own construction site?

Wow, the topic is two and a half years old... Unfortunately, there are no photos, but fill in the gap with m/u PP... it’s described enough here. For those who are very worried about the slabs coming apart and other phobias, when you lay the reinforcement, provide outlets for transverse reinforcement, weld some of the ends with eyes for hooking the slabs (the rest will go under the screed). When the concrete hardens, you will get a stone (reinforced) and not only “ground” to the PP, but also “tied” to them.

I filled the void between the slabs with a width of 0.6 m. I drilled into the slabs at the bottom edge and inserted the reinforcement across. He threw 2 longitudinal rods onto it. On top I put 3 cardboard tubes from under the linoleum. I tied it to the reinforcement and filled everything with concrete. The result was a hollow jumper.

Before you decide to make monolithic sections between the floor slabs yourself, soberly assess your capabilities, because this is serious painstaking work. But if you still decide to make a monolith between the slabs yourself, then you will have to go through the following installation stages.

Diagram of a monolithic section.

At this stage, you have to make sure that you have at hand at the right time necessary materials and tools. Therefore, you need to take care of availability in advance.

So, to make a monolithic section of the floor, you will need the following tools: a hammer drill, wood screws 90 mm long, threaded rods standard 2 m each, nuts, washers, open-end and socket wrenches, Pobedit drills for concrete, wood drills 90 cm long, screwdriver, cross bits for a screwdriver of very good quality ( good quality required because the edges of low-quality cue balls wear off very quickly), a hook, a grinder with metal discs, a diamond-coated circular saw (for cutting boards along and across the grain), an 800-gram hammer, a sledgehammer up to 3 kg, nails steel size 120 mm, tape measure - 2-3 pieces (tape tapes are necessary for making accurate measurements, there must be a sufficient number of them, as they often break and get lost), carpenter's pencil, carpenter's angle 50 cm long, carpenter's stapler with staples, level.

You will also need building materials: knitting wire with a diameter of 0.3 mm for binding frames, reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm, wire with a diameter of at least 6 mm, cement, gravel, sand, film 100-120 microns thick, boards 50x150 mm, boards 5x50 mm.

It is also necessary to take care of protective equipment in advance, because you and your assistants will have to work dangerously at height among nails, fittings and boards sticking out in all directions. For protection you will need: gloves, closed shoes (construction boots or shoes made of thick fabric such as old-style army boots), safety glasses, a cap or helmet.

Design calculations

Calculation of a prefabricated floor slab.

At this stage you will need to carry out precise measurements and calculations to know what and how much you will need. First of all, we find out what the floor slabs will be like. To do this, we find out the width of the building and divide it in half, into two equal parts. We immediately determine where the stairs to the second floor will be, which side the rise will be on flight of stairs, and only after that we calculate the dimensions and number of floor slabs.

The length of the floor slab is the width of the house divided by 2.

There are three widths of the floor slab standard sizes: 80 cm, 1 m 20 cm, 1 m 50 cm.

We calculate the required size and number of floor slabs, taking into account the fact that there should be a gap of 7 cm between the slabs. After everything has been calculated and we know exactly required size and the number of floor slabs, we order them from the manufacturer or from suppliers of building materials.

Attention!

Don't forget to take into account the 7 cm gap between the floor slabs! The absence of a gap between the plates will complicate their installation and may subsequently cause deformation.

Manufacturing of formwork

Formwork installation diagram.

To make formwork, we take 50x150 mm boards and sew them into a 40 cm high board. One board (1 rib of the future formwork) will use 3 boards. The result is a rib 45 cm high, where 40 cm is the height of the future floor beam and 5 cm is required stock. They are sewn together with transverse pieces of boards 5x50 mm and 40 cm long. These boards, called lyapukhi, are placed along the entire length of the shield every 40-50 cm. Remember: the first and last lyapukhi should be no closer than 10 cm from the edge of the edge of the shield. We fasten the bolts to the boards with self-tapping screws 90 mm long using a screwdriver at the rate of 3-4 self-tapping screws per 1 board being sewn. Then we align the edges of the shield circular saw using a carpenter's angle.

You will need 3 of these prefabricated panels; they will become the ribs of the formwork.

Installation of formwork

Formwork installation diagram.

To complete this stage of work, a team of 3-4 people will be required.

To make assembly easier, we place one shield as a base. We install a spacer under each bolt so that nothing bends under load.

We attach the ribs to the base of the formwork. We fasten the ribs taking into account how wide we need the beam. Beams of three sizes are allowed: 35, 40, 45 cm. With the required width of 35 cm, both side ribs are placed flush. With a required width of 40 cm, only one edge of two prefabricated panels is placed flush. If you need a beam 45 cm wide, the ribs are attached without using this technique. Everything is fastened with self-tapping screws.

As a result, we ended up with a box of three prefabricated panels in the place where the future beam will be located.

Figure 4. Types of attachment of ribs to the base. A – 35 cm, B – 40 cm, C – 45 cm.

Now we prepare spacers from the reinforcement. They will be needed to survive right size beams and avoid bevels. We simply cut the reinforcement into pieces of the required length (35, 40 or 45 cm).

After this, we proceed to upholstering the resulting box with film from the inside, using a carpenter's stapler with staples. This is necessary in order to prevent unnecessary water loss from the concrete and to avoid the appearance of sinkholes. If this is not done, the concrete will lose a lot of moisture along with sand and cement. After drying, gravel will appear heavily on the outer edges of the beam. The surface of the beam will be completely covered with strong roughness and irregularities, bumps and depressions, the so-called shells. Such a beam will be of poor quality and will have to be redone.

Installation of prefabricated metal structures

Reinforcement frame diagram.

Let's start knitting the frame on the ground. We make 8 veins of a given length from the reinforcement (the length of one vein is equal to the length of the future beam).

Now we make clamps from M-6 wire that are bent by hand. From a single piece of wire it is necessary to make a square with a given length of its sides. So, for a beam measuring 35x35 cm you need a clamp with sides of 30 cm, for a beam 40x40 cm we make a clamp 35x35 cm, for a beam 45x45 cm - a clamp 40x40 cm. These sizes of clamps are necessary so that after installing it in the formwork it does not touch its walls . Remember: the minimum distance between the formwork wall and the clamp should be 2.5-3 cm, no less!

This is necessary so that in the end the metal parts of the clamp are not visible on the surface of the beam. If metal appears on the surface of the beam, then it is in this place that corrosion of the metal and destruction of the concrete, and therefore the beam itself, will begin.

The ends of the clamp are connected with an overlap, that is, there should be an overlap of the ends of the clamp, which are fastened to each other with a double knitting wire with a diameter of 0.3 mm.

The wire is folded in half to form a double knitting wire. This is the wire that should be used to tie the ends of the clamp.

Knowing that the clamps should be located along the entire length of the beam at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other, it is easy to calculate their required number.

We assemble the frame. To do this, we tie 2 strands to each side of the clamp with double knitting wire at an equal distance from the bends and between each other. We place the clamps on the cores at 40-50 cm from each other. The distance between the clamps must be maintained.

Laying it down finished frame into the installed box, being careful not to damage the film. If suddenly the film is damaged, then it’s okay, just fill the hole with another piece of film and secure it with a stapler.

Sometimes, for various reasons, it is necessary to make veins from pieces of reinforcement of different lengths. There is nothing wrong with this; construction technology allows it. Simply take another piece of reinforcement and overlap it with double tying wire over the junction of the two sections of the vein, allowing the overlap to be 60cm in each direction. This immediately explains why builders prefer to make veins from solid pieces of reinforcement rather than assemble them from pieces. After all, if you assemble from pieces of different lengths, you will end up with a strong overrun building material. Moreover, this work is carried out when the frame is already inside the box.

Do-it-yourself monolithic ceiling diagram.

Then we take a wood drill and, taking into account the fact that the concrete pressure comes from below, we make holes equal to the diameter of the stud, 15-20 cm from the bottom of the box. We make 1 through hole at the bottom of each blooper. We cut the studs to the length we need.

The length is calculated as follows: the width of the support beam + two thicknesses of the board + two thicknesses of the bolt + two extra threads for screwing on the nuts and washers. We insert the resulting pins into the box.

Now we take pre-prepared pieces of reinforcement - spacers. We install them on top of each stud. We tighten the studs until the spacers lightly stop so that they hold.

We take a level and level the formwork vertically to the ground so that it does not move after compression. All deviations in one direction or another are eliminated using side struts. Installation of studs and installation of spacers is one of the important prefabricated stages of the structure.

After installing the spacers, check everything again with a level, only after that attach everything support boards to the formwork with nails or screws.

Now let's start hanging the frame. To hang the frame, you need to tie it to the studs. The easiest way to do this is with a height template - a small board measuring 2.5x2.5x30 cm. It’s simple: place a height template under each clamp and wrap it to the pin where it touches with double knitting wire. After fixing the last clamp, the frame will be suspended in the air.

After that, check and inspect everything. Do not allow the film to break or the clamps to touch the walls of the box. Then we fill the transverse slats for sewing the formwork boards together. From the bottom of the base, measure the height of the beam and drive nails along the entire length of the box at this height. These nails are beacons; concrete will be poured along them.

Now we check the strength of the lower and side struts; they should be able to easily support a decent weight. When in doubt, add more supports. Remember: concrete has high density. The slightest mistake and the structure will collapse under the weight of concrete.

Once you are sure that you did everything correctly, then feel free to pour the concrete.

For the manufacture of beams, cement grade M300 or M350 is used, which is best purchased ready-made, since the beam must be poured at one time without interruption. If this is not possible, hire a large concrete mixer to mix the entire required volume of concrete on site in one go.

In 3-5 days, in good weather, the concrete will dry; in bad weather, the drying process will take longer.

After the concrete has completely dried, you can begin dismantling wooden formwork and installation of the floor slabs themselves.

Any building, regardless of number of floors, has ceilings. They can be wooden or concrete. The most reliable is a monolithic floor slab. Let's consider its advantages and construction rules.

Types of plates, diagrams
Self-installation technology
Price

Types and features of the device

The most popular floor covering today, both in cottage and industrial construction, is, naturally, a monolithic slab.

Those who have the opportunity to order construction equipment(faucet), they prefer ready-made reinforced concrete products (quickly and quite cheaply). Many people cast the monolith themselves, creating a system of removable or permanent formwork.

Prefabricated monolithic floors (Marko, TERIVA, ChPP, YTONG) are also very convenient and available.

Since a monolithic floor slab is one of load-bearing structures, then heavy-grade concrete, lightweight structural concrete with a dense structure, as well as dense silicate concrete can be used for their production.

to install monolithic ceiling, it is worth determining its type in advance, since they differ in technical parameters, and for the price.

Advantages of floor slabs and their types

According to the structure, the panels are solid and hollow, and according to the method of installation, prefabricated, prefabricated-monolithic and monolithic. All of them fall under the concept of monolithic floors; at the final stage, all layers are monolithic. Such designs not only have high performance strength, but also fire safety, moisture resistance and extremely durable.

Prefabricated floors made of reinforced concrete panels

Most often they are made from round-hollow panels, which are distinguished by reasonable prices, lower weight, higher thermal insulation properties compared to monolithic ones. Floors made from them can be quickly installed, and a wide range of standard sizes allows you to select a slab to suit the customer’s needs. The only drawback is the mandatory use of a crane.

The length of the produced slabs is from 1.8 to 15 meters, width – from 0.6 to 2.4 m.

The standard thickness of factory PCs is 220 mm, and the calculated load-bearing capacity (from 350 to 800 kgf/m2) of the panels differs due to the use different brands concrete and reinforcement. The weight of the slabs depends on the size and ranges from 0.65 to 2.5 tons.

Define required parameters marking allows. The letters indicate the product type PC (floor panel), PNO (lightweight decking panel), the numbers indicate the length and width in decimeters, as well as the load in kilopascals. By removing the dead weight of the slab from the design load, the permissible payload is obtained. When laying parts on the wall, the support depth must be maintained at least 12 cm.

If the length of the room to be covered exceeds 9 meters, a monolithic ribbed slab is suitable. It is half the weight (the weight of a square meter is about 270 kg), which reduces the total load on the walls by almost a quarter.

Sometimes cracks occur in floor slabs. They can be shrinkage or deformation. Cracks up to 0.3 mm are not dangerous, but if the panel has large diagonal or longitudinal cracks, it is better to replace it. If cracks appear during operation, then it is necessary to strengthen the slab by adding an additional reinforced layer of screed on top.

For insulating the ends of panels in external wall, which serve as “cold bridges”, use lightweight concrete thermal liners.

Practice shows that sometimes the dimensions of the room turn out to be disproportionate to the width of the panels and it becomes necessary to additionally fill the monolithic areas between the slabs. If the movement of the slabs is up to 5 cm, such seams are filled with concrete without reinforcement; seams above this size require the installation of an additional reinforced frame.

Before laying the flooring on load-bearing walls be sure to arrange reinforced monolithic belt under the slabs. This is a continuous closed beam, the reinforcement of which is carried out with high-quality rolled metal.

In order to be guaranteed to purchase high-quality reinforced concrete PCs, it is better to buy them directly from reinforced concrete factories or construction companies, which have the capacity to produce reinforced concrete products.

The average price of one square meter of a hollow-core floor panel in Moscow and the region ranges from 1,100 to 1,200 rubles. The most popular slabs are from 3 to 7 meters, while products of shorter and longer lengths will cost more (in terms of m2). The most popular width is 1.2 – 1.5 m.

Not all manufacturers produce slabs up to 1 meter and 1.8 meters wide, which also affects their price.

Prefabricated monolithic

The installation of prefabricated monolithic floors has not yet become the most popular method, but has already won its niche in construction market. The essence of the method: reinforced concrete beams are laid on the walls (step - 60 cm) and hollow blocks between them, the entire structure is monolied.

Installation is possible without the use of mechanisms, since the weight of a linear meter of the beam is 19 kg. Due to the large-hollow blocks, it is lightweight and has increased thermal insulation qualities. The only negative is the labor intensity (the blocks are laid manually).

Before pouring concrete, the structure should be reinforced ( wire mesh with cells 10x10 cm), minimum thickness a layer of concrete of at least 5 cm.

One square meter the finished floor weighs up to 390 kg (if the blocks are made of expanded clay concrete) and up to 300 kg (if the blocks are made of polystyrene concrete). And this is almost two times less than a monolithic floor 2 cm thick (about 500 kg/m2).

GSK Columbus (MARCO) offers an average of 1,100 rubles per square meter of structures that make up prefabricated monolithic floor slabs, and turnkey installation work will cost 3,000 - 3,500 rubles per m2.

Self-installation

When building a house with your own hands, it is possible to install monolithic interfloor slabs on site. After forcing out the walls of the first floor, they begin to construct the formwork for the monolithic slab. Supports of the same size and height are installed in 1 meter increments along the entire perimeter of the slab. The beams connecting them are adjacent to the walls.

Boards are laid on the supports, with roofing felt on top (without going onto the walls). The formwork is placed around the perimeter of the future ceiling so that the monolith rests securely on the walls. The reinforcement is placed at a distance of at least 50 mm from the insulation layer. The calculation of the required footage of rods is done using the formula - S (area) x4x2. The most problematic moment is filling.

To supply concrete to a height, you need to order a concrete pump.

Monolishing the slab on your own

Comparative cost analysis

A comparison of two types will be very revealing: using ready-made hollow-core reinforced concrete slabs and the device monolithic slab do it yourself 6x6 ceilings (conditional dimensions). The thickness of the floor in both cases is 0.22 m, the load-bearing load is 8 kPa.

Covering with slabs:

You will need 5 slabs PC 62.12 - 8. (costs - 8,000 x 5 = 40,000 rubles)
Delivery and rental of the crane will cost approximately 10,000.
Pouring joints and anchoring (0.5 m3 of concrete) – 2,000
Installation takes place in one day, two workers (salaries) are enough.

Total - about 55,000.

DIY monolith:

Costs for formwork (lumber 2 m3) and fasteners - 8,000.
Fittings (rod steel diameter 10, mesh according to calculation + wire for the bundle) about 0.6 tons with delivery can be bought for 20,000 rubles
Ready-made concrete (M300) 8 m3 and rental of a concrete pump will cost 26,000 - 29,000
Workers (4 days of formwork, binding of reinforcement, pouring) - 20,000.
Expenses for Additional materials and tools - 3,000.
The period of technological hardening of concrete is 3 days.

The result is about 80,000 rubles and a week of time.

The cost of a square meter of prefabricated flooring is a little more than 1,500, and a monolithic one is 2,200.

Source: http://stoneguru.ru/monolitnaya-plita-perekrytiya.html

Monolithic sections between floor slabs

Diagram of a monolithic section.

1 Surface preparation
2 Design calculations
3 Manufacturing of formwork
4 Installation of formwork
5 Installation of prefabricated metal structures

Surface preparation

At this stage, you have to make sure that you have the right materials and tools at hand at the right time. Therefore, you need to take care of availability in advance.

So, to make a monolithic section of the floor, you will need the following tools: a hammer drill, wood screws 90 mm long, standard threaded rods 2 m each, nuts, washers, open-end and socket wrenches, Pobedit drills for concrete, wood drills 90 cm long, screwdriver, cross-shaped cue balls for a screwdriver of very good quality (good quality is required because the edges of low-quality cue balls wear off very quickly), hook, grinder with metal discs, diamond-coated circular saw (for cutting boards along and across the grain), hammer 800- gram, sledgehammer up to 3 kg, steel nails measuring 120 mm, tape measure - 2-3 pieces (tape tapes are necessary for accurate measurements, there should be a sufficient number of them, as they often break and get lost), carpenter's pencil, carpenter's angle 50 cm long , carpenter's stapler with staples, level.

Design calculations

Calculation of a prefabricated floor slab.

At this stage, you will need to make accurate measurements and calculations so that you know what and how much you will need. First of all, we find out what the floor slabs will be like.

To do this, we find out the width of the building and divide it in half, into two equal parts.

We immediately determine where the staircase to the second floor will be, on which side the flight of stairs will rise, and only after that we calculate the dimensions and number of floor slabs.

The length of the floor slab is the width of the house divided by 2.

The width of the floor slab comes in three standard sizes: 80 cm, 1 m 20 cm, 1 m 50 cm.

We calculate the required size and number of floor slabs, taking into account the fact that there should be a gap of 7 cm between the slabs. After everything has been calculated and we know exactly the required size and number of floor slabs, we order them from the manufacturer or from suppliers of building materials.

Attention!

Don't forget to take into account the 7 cm gap between the floor slabs! The absence of a gap between the plates will complicate their installation and may subsequently cause deformation.

Manufacturing of formwork

Formwork installation diagram.

These boards, called pads, are placed along the entire length of the shield every 40-50 cm. Remember: the first and last pads should be no closer than 10 cm from the edge of the shield edge. We fasten the bolts to the boards with self-tapping screws 90 mm long using a screwdriver at the rate of 3-4 self-tapping screws per 1 board being sewn.

Then we align the edges of the shield with a circular saw using a carpenter's angle.

You will need 3 of these prefabricated panels; they will become the ribs of the formwork.

Installation of formwork

Formwork installation diagram.

To complete this stage of work, a team of 3-4 people will be required.

To make assembly easier, we place one shield as a base. We install a spacer under each bolt so that nothing bends under load.

We attach the ribs to the base of the formwork. We fasten the ribs taking into account how wide we need the beam. Beams of three sizes are allowed: 35, 40, 45 cm.

With the required width of 35 cm, both side ribs are placed flush. With a required width of 40 cm, only one edge of two prefabricated panels is placed flush.

If you need a beam 45 cm wide, the ribs are attached without using this technique. Everything is fastened with self-tapping screws.

As a result, we ended up with a box of three prefabricated panels in the place where the future beam will be located.

Figure 4. Types of attachment of ribs to the base. A – 35 cm, B – 40 cm, C – 45 cm.

Now we prepare spacers from the reinforcement. They will be needed in order to maintain the required size of the beam and prevent bevels. We simply cut the reinforcement into pieces of the required length (35, 40 or 45 cm).

If this is not done, the concrete will lose a lot of moisture along with sand and cement. After drying, gravel will appear heavily on the outer edges of the beam. The surface of the beam will be completely covered with strong roughness and irregularities, bumps and depressions, the so-called shells.

Such a beam will be of poor quality and will have to be redone.

Installation of prefabricated metal structures

Reinforcement frame diagram.

Let's start knitting the frame on the ground. We make 8 veins of a given length from the reinforcement (the length of one vein is equal to the length of the future beam).

Now we make clamps from M-6 wire that are bent by hand. From a single piece of wire it is necessary to make a square with a given length of its sides.

So, for a beam measuring 35x35 cm you need a clamp with sides of 30 cm, for a beam 40x40 cm we make a clamp 35x35 cm, for a beam 45x45 cm - a clamp 40x40 cm. These sizes of clamps are necessary so that after installing it in the formwork it does not touch its walls .

Remember: the minimum distance between the formwork wall and the clamp should be 2.5-3 cm, no less!

The wire is folded in half to form a double knitting wire. This is the wire that should be used to tie the ends of the clamp.

Knowing that the clamps should be located along the entire length of the beam at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other, it is easy to calculate their required number.

We place the finished frame in the installed box, being careful not to damage the film. If suddenly the film is damaged, then it’s okay, just fill the hole with another piece of film and secure it with a stapler.

Sometimes, for various reasons, it is necessary to make veins from pieces of reinforcement of different lengths. There is nothing wrong with this; construction technology allows it.

Simply take another piece of reinforcement and overlap it with double tying wire over the junction of the two sections of the vein, allowing the overlap to be 60cm in each direction. This immediately explains why builders prefer to make veins from solid pieces of reinforcement rather than assemble them from pieces.

After all, if you assemble it from pieces of different lengths, you will end up with a significant overconsumption of building material. Moreover, this work is carried out when the frame is already inside the box.

Do-it-yourself monolithic ceiling diagram.

Now we take pre-prepared pieces of reinforcement - spacers. We install them on top of each stud. We tighten the studs until the spacers lightly stop so that they hold.

After installing the spacers, check everything again with a level, and only then attach all the support boards to the formwork with nails or self-tapping screws.

Now we check the strength of the lower and side struts; they should be able to easily support a decent weight. When in doubt, add more supports. Remember: concrete has high density. The slightest mistake and the structure will collapse under the weight of concrete.

Once you are sure that you did everything correctly, then feel free to pour the concrete.

In 3-5 days, in good weather, the concrete will dry; in bad weather, the drying process will take longer.

After the concrete has completely dried, you can begin to dismantle the wooden formwork and install the floor slabs themselves.

Monolithic sections between floor slabs

Diagram of a monolithic section.

Surface preparation

At this stage, you have to make sure that you have the right materials and tools at hand at the right time. Therefore, you need to take care of availability in advance.

So, to make a monolithic section of the floor, you will need the following tools: a hammer drill, wood screws 90 mm long, standard threaded rods 2 m each, nuts, washers, open-end and socket wrenches, Pobedit drills for concrete, wood drills 90 cm long, screwdriver cross-shaped cue balls for a screwdriver of very good quality (good quality is required because the edges of low-quality cue balls wear off very quickly), a hook, a grinder with metal discs, a diamond-coated circular saw (for cutting boards along and across the grain), an 800-gram hammer, sledgehammer up to 3 kg, steel nails 120 mm in size, tape measure #8211 2-3 pieces (tape tapes are necessary for accurate measurements, there should be a sufficient number of them, as they often break and get lost), carpenter's pencil, carpenter's angle 50 cm long, carpenter's stapler with staples, level.

Design calculations

Calculation of a prefabricated floor slab.

At this stage, you will need to make accurate measurements and calculations so that you know what and how much you will need. First of all, we find out what the floor slabs will be like. To do this, we find out the width of the building and divide it in half, into two equal parts. We immediately determine where the staircase to the second floor will be, on which side the flight of stairs will rise, and only after that we calculate the dimensions and number of floor slabs.

The length of floor slab #8211 is the width of the house divided by 2.

The width of the floor slab comes in three standard sizes: 80 cm, 1 m 20 cm, 1 m 50 cm.

Don't forget to take into account the 7 cm gap between the floor slabs! The absence of a gap between the plates will complicate their installation and may subsequently cause deformation.

Monolithic section between two slabs 980 mm wide (download drawing in dwg format)

Sometimes you have to make wide monolithic sections between the floor slabs. They must be calculated according to current loads. The drawing shows a monolithic section with a width of 980 mm, supported by two hollow core slabs. The conditions for such a monolithic section (loads, principles of reinforcement, etc.) are described in detail in the article Monolithic section between two prefabricated slabs.

Monolithic section between two precast slabs

Such a monolithic section acts as a slab supported by adjacent precast slabs. For this purpose, it is provided with working reinforcement curved by a trough, the diameter of which depends on the width of the section (the estimated length of the slab of this section) and the load on the floor. Longitudinal reinforcement is structural; it creates a reinforcing mesh, but does not carry loads. An anti-shrink mesh made of smooth reinforcement small diameter.

The figure shows examples of reinforcement of two monolithic sections of housing (without any additional loads in the form of warm floors and brick partitions).

As you can see, there are areas different widths, but when setting the goal of creating a wide monolithic section resting on slabs, you should always check whether the floor slabs will withstand it. This is the most important point in the design of monolithic sections. The load-bearing capacity of floor slabs varies (from 400 to 800 kg/m2 - excluding the weight of the slab).

Let's say we have two prefabricated slabs 1.2 m wide, between which there is a monolithic section 0.98 m wide. The load-bearing capacity of the slabs is 400 kg/m2. i.e. one linear meter such a slab can withstand 1.2*400 = 480 kg/m.

Let's calculate the load per 1 linear meter of the slab from a monolithic section with a thickness of 220 + 30 = 250 mm = 0.25 m. The weight of reinforced concrete is 2500 kg/m 3. The safety factor for the load is 1.1.

0.25*1.1*2500*0.98/2 = 337 kg/m.

We divided by two, because the monolithic section rests on two slabs, and each of them bears half the load.

In addition to the weight of the monolithic section, we have the load on the slabs from the floor structure (140 kg/m2), from the partitions (50 kg/m2) and the temporary load from the weight of people, furniture, etc. (150 kg/m2). Multiplying all this by the coefficients and the width of the precast slab, and adding the load from the monolithic section, we get the final load on each precast slab:

1.3*140*1.2/2 + 1.1*50*1.2/2 + 1.3*150*1.2/2 + 337 = 596 kg/m 480 kg/m.

We see that the load is greater than the slab can withstand. But if you take a slab with a load-bearing capacity of 600 kg/m2, then one linear meter of such a slab can withstand 1.2 * 600 = 720 kg/m - the reliability of the structure will be ensured.

Therefore, you should always check bearing capacity slabs depending on the dimensions of the monolithic section, the width of the slab and the loads acting on it.

Monolithic floor section with an oblique angle. Reinforcement frame for a slab with a bevel. Concrete work for a monolithic slab with a bevel. Curing and maintaining concrete.

Reinforcement works SNiP 3.03.01-87 Load-bearing and enclosing structures, GOST 19292-73. Instructions for welding reinforcement joints and embedded parts reinforced concrete structures CH 393-78. Production Guides reinforcement works. And other active ones regulatory documents.

Concrete works should be carried out in accordance with the requirements and recommendations SNiP 3.03.01-87 Load-bearing and enclosing structures.

Concrete mix composition. preparation, acceptance rules, control methods and transportation must comply GOST 7473-85 .

During construction work reinforced concrete monolithic structures should be guided by the requirements SNiP 3.03.01-87 Load-bearing and enclosing structures and the relevant sections of the safety regulations given in SNiP III-4-80. working drawings and instructions for the work execution plan.

1. Monolithic floor section with an oblique angle (UM-1).

In houses. where construction is planned with corner wall transition at an angle not 90°, as usual, but, for example, 45° - floors are being carried out in monolithic version .

You can, of course, take an ordinary reinforced concrete slab and use a jackhammer to knock out the desired bevel of the slab, and cut off the reinforcement.

But this is fraught with the fact that if the reinforced concrete slab is made with a stressed reinforcement frame (and this is most often done in reinforced concrete factories - such a frame requires less reinforcement consumption), then in such a stripped-down form the slab will lose its load-bearing capacity. Or maybe right away burst during such a circumcision.

NOTE: Prestressed reinforcement frame- this is a frame whose rods clamped in a special form. and then, heating, pulling to the required size.

Further it welded with transverse frames. poured concrete and dried in a steam chamber. Trimming rods from the fixed form was performed already when the slab was V finished form . Those. reinforcing bars in concrete taut like guitar strings. Well, if the string breaks, you know what happens.

Therefore, everything that does not fit into standard sizes industrial reinforced concrete products and structures, performed in monolithic version at the construction site of the house. In our version monolithic slab is continuation of national teams reinforced concrete slabs .

2. Reinforcement frame for a slab with a bevel (UM-1).

Manufacturing reinforcement frame and mesh must be carried out according to the drawings and have an exact location welded elements. Replacement provided for by the project reinforcing steel by class, brand and assortment is agreed upon With design organization.

Technological manufacturing process reinforcement cage provides:

straightening and cutting steel fittings, wires. supplied in coils with diameter 3…14 mm And in rods diameter 12…40 mm on rods of measured length
editing(bending) and butt welding rods to the required size
welding meshes and frames
consolidation assembly(welding and wire knitting) volumetric reinforcement blocks
transportation and installation frames at a construction site.

Reinforcement frame of a monolithic section UM-1 performed according to the dimensions indicated in the diagram (see figure). And it consists of mesh S-2 And two reinforcement cages K-1. interconnected reinforcing rods from the same steel A-III .

Reinforcing mesh necessary cook spot welding . For frame and mesh used fittings according to the indicated table 1.

Table 1: Specification of reinforcement for the frame of a monolithic floor slab.

Creating a monolithic section between the slabs with your own hands

- Installation of supports and formwork
- Formation of reinforcement grid
- Concrete mixture and its pouring
- Final Recommendations

Construction of a private house #8211 is a complex and labor-intensive task, within which it is necessary to perform various types of work. For example, it may be necessary to fill a monolithic section between floors due to the fact that it is not possible according to the design to form a ceiling entirely from slabs. This happens very often in cases of forming flights of stairs or when it is necessary to lay various communication elements between the slabs. It is quite possible to form a monolithic section between the slabs with your own hands. Although this work is labor-intensive, it is quite doable if you adhere to all building codes and rules.

If you need to lay various communication elements between the slabs, you can form a monolithic section between the slabs with your own hands.

In the process of forming a monolith section between floor slabs, it is important to correctly perform the following work:

install supports and form the formwork
form reinforcing mesh
cook concrete mixture
pour concrete correctly.

Correct execution of these types of work will allow you to create a durable and reliable site monolith between the floor slabs in the required place.

Required materials and tools

Considering that the work on constructing the concrete section of the floor consists of different stages, for each of them it is necessary to prepare a number of materials. The list of such materials may vary due to various factors, including the distance between the slabs that needs to be poured. The standard list looks like this:

On wooden beams a horizontal support for the formwork is laid.

plywood or boards to create a direct surface for pouring mortar and side formwork, construction film
wooden beams or metal channels to create a horizontal support on which plywood or a plank pallet will be laid
timber (120-150 mm), wooden beams or channels to create load-bearing supports under the formwork platform
reinforcing bars (15-25 mm), wire for tying, metal chairs for installing reinforcing bars at the required height (you can also use reinforced mesh)
cement M400, sand, crushed stone, water for mixing concrete mortar
concrete mixer
circular saw for cutting beams, boards, plywood, as well as metal reinforcing rods
a shovel, a bayonet tool, a trowel or a rule for leveling the surface of the floor area between the slabs, protective film to cover this area.

The amount of all materials depends directly on the distance between concrete slabs needs to be covered and how much area the monolithic section of the floor occupies as a whole. Typically, in private houses such a section of flooring is not very large, so its formation is not too challenging task. However, at the same time, you should still adhere to clear phasing and rules for working with building materials and structures.

Stages of work on forming a monolithic section between floor slabs

The monolithic section of the floor between the slabs is formed in approximately the same way as any monolithic floor. Given the small area of such a site, the work, of course, is simplified, but it is necessary to adhere to all building codes and regulations. Therefore, no matter what distance between concrete slabs is poured, all stages of work must be carried out carefully, on which the reliability of the monolithic structure created independently will depend.

Surface preparation

At this stage, you have to make sure that you have the right materials and tools at hand at the right time. Therefore, you need to take care of availability in advance.

So, to make a monolithic section of the floor, you will need the following tools: a hammer drill, wood screws 90 mm long, standard threaded rods 2 m each, nuts, washers, open-end and socket wrenches, Pobedit wood drills 90 cm long, screwdriver, cross-shaped cue balls for a very good quality screwdriver (good quality is required because the edges of low-quality cue balls wear off very quickly), a hook, an angle grinder with metal discs, a diamond-coated circular saw (for cutting boards along and across the grain), an 800-gram hammer, a sledgehammer 3 kg, steel nails 120 mm in size, tape measure - 2-3 pieces (tape tapes are necessary for accurate measurements, there must be a sufficient number of them, as they often break and get lost), carpenter's pencil, carpenter's angle 50 cm long, carpenter's stapler with staples, level.

Design calculations

Calculation of a prefabricated floor slab.

The length of the floor slab is the width of the house divided by 2.

The width of the floor slab comes in three standard sizes: 80 cm, 1 m 20 cm, 1 m 50 cm.

We calculate the required size and number of floor slabs, taking into account the fact that there should be a gap of 7 cm between the slabs. After everything has been calculated and we know exactly the required size and number of floor slabs, we order them from the manufacturer or from suppliers of building materials.

Attention!

Don't forget to take into account the 7 cm gap between the floor slabs! The absence of a gap between the plates will complicate their installation and may subsequently cause deformation.

Manufacturing of formwork

Formwork installation diagram.

To make formwork, we take 50x150 mm boards and sew them into a 40 cm high board. One board (1 rib of the future formwork) will use 3 boards. You will get a rib 45 cm high, where 40 cm is the future height and 5 cm is the required margin. They are sewn together with transverse pieces of boards 5x50 mm and 40 cm long. These boards, called lyapukhi, are placed along the entire length of the shield every 40-50 cm. Remember: the first and last lyapukhi should be no closer than 10 cm from the edge of the edge of the shield. We fasten the bolts to the boards with self-tapping screws 90 mm long using a screwdriver at the rate of 3-4 self-tapping screws per 1 board being sewn. Then we align the edges of the shield with a circular saw using a carpenter's angle.

You will need 3 of these prefabricated panels; they will become the ribs of the formwork.

Formwork installation diagram.

To complete this stage of work, a team of 3-4 people will be required.

To make assembly easier, we place one shield as a base. We install a spacer under each bolt so that nothing bends under load.

As a result, we ended up with a box of three prefabricated panels in the place where the future beam will be located.

Figure 4. Types of attachment of ribs to the base. A - 35 cm, B - 40 cm, C - 45 cm.

Installation of prefabricated metal structures

Reinforcement frame diagram.

Let's start knitting the frame on the ground. We make 8 veins of a given length from the reinforcement (the length of one vein is equal to the length of the future beam).

The wire is folded in half to form a double knitting wire. This is the wire that should be used to tie the ends of the clamp.

Knowing that the clamps should be located along the entire length of the beam at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other, it is easy to calculate their required number.

Sometimes, for various reasons, it is necessary to make veins from pieces of reinforcement of different lengths. There is nothing wrong with this; construction technology allows it. Simply take another piece of reinforcement and overlap it with double tying wire over the junction of the two sections of the vein, allowing the overlap to be 60cm in each direction. This immediately explains why builders prefer to make veins from solid pieces of reinforcement rather than assemble them from pieces. After all, if you assemble it from pieces of different lengths, you will end up with a significant overconsumption of building material. Moreover, this work is carried out when the frame is already inside the box.

Now we take pre-prepared pieces of reinforcement - spacers. We install them on top of each stud. We tighten the studs until the spacers lightly stop so that they hold.

After installing the spacers, check everything again with a level, and only then attach all the support boards to the formwork with nails or self-tapping screws.

Once you are sure that you did everything correctly, then feel free to pour the concrete.

In 3-5 days, in good weather, the concrete will dry; in bad weather, the drying process will take longer.

Once completed, you can begin to dismantle the wooden formwork and install the floor slabs themselves.

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