How to lay glass blocks in a brick wall. Installation of glass blocks: step-by-step instructions. Selection of tools and consumables

Pick up glass blocks for your project. Large, thin glass blocks let in more light, making them better suited for windows. The choice of size, color and texture depends entirely on your preferences.

Draw a diagram of the future structure.

  • Plan the structure so that the blocks fit completely. Glass block cannot be cut.
  • Between glass blocks, walls, jambs and window frames provide a gap of 0.6-1 cm. Reflect the gaps in the drawing.
  • Perhaps no combination of blocks will completely fill the required space. Be prepared to fill in the remaining areas with boards or other material.
  • Mix the solution for laying glass blocks or special glue according to the instructions. The required amount of solution depends not only on the size of the structure, but also on the size of the glass blocks. Mix the solution in portions for no more than an hour of work, to avoid early setting of the solution.

  • Apply the first layer of mortar and lay out the first row of blocks.

    • Place the first block. Then, apply the mixture to one side of the second block so that when laid, the mixture fills the joint between the two blocks and glues them together. When laying, apply the solution to only one side of each block.
    • The gaps between walls, jambs and window frames are filled with compensation material, not mortar. Compensation material protects the blocks from temperature changes.
  • Place mounting crosses between the blocks. Tap the blocks tightly to the crosses using rubber mallet. Crosses are used to align joints and properly distribute the load during the installation stage.

    • T-crosses are used around the perimeter. The first row of crosses is installed immediately after laying the first row of blocks. T-crosses must be nailed or screwed to adjacent walls.
    • X-shaped crosses are installed between the blocks. Using crosses, the joints between the blocks are aligned.
    • Place the crosses exactly in the middle so that they do not interfere with subsequent processing of the seams. Apply a second layer of mortar over the first row.
  • To enhance the structure, lay reinforcement every 30 cm.

    • Horizontal reinforcement must be pressed into a thin layer of mortar.
    • Connect the fittings to the side holders. The side holders should protrude from the wall by at least 2-3 cm.
  • Seam finishing. Before the mortar sets, treat the seams with a jointing spatula. The seams should be smooth and concave.

    • Except for very small structures, you will have to regularly stop building and return to finishing the joints. Do not try to assemble the entire structure at once.
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    Modern building and decorative material in the form of glass blocks provides ample opportunities for interior design. Using these glass “bricks”, you can realize the most unexpected decisions room decoration. Such designs are very convenient to use - they transmit light perfectly and are characterized by high performance thermal and sound insulation. To mount a wall or partition from glass blocks, you will need to take into account some features of working with this material.

    Many remember fragments of walls and blank windows industrial buildings and public spaces made of glass blocks. Then this material was undeservedly forgotten for some time. Currently, glass blocks are experiencing a rebirth - using these products of a new format, you can create unexpected and original solutions not only for exterior finishing private houses, but also to create original and unique interiors of various premises.

    Glass blocks are products made from two glass plates of thick glass (frosted, transparent, painted in the mass or with a pattern), connected together in a hermetically sealed manner. closed design. The air gap gives this building material excellent sound and thermal insulation characteristics. Glass blocks are made with a smooth or corrugated surface. Depending on the relief, they can be transparent, scattering or directing light. On sale are glass blocks of rectangular and square shapes, as well as triangular, corner and even round products, with a thickness of 7.5 to 10 cm, weighing about 2.5-4.3 kg. Standard sizes glass blocks are 19x19x8 or 24x24x12. There are samples of Euro glass blocks on sale, in which the ends are coated with paint - thanks to this, the mortar seams in the masonry do not show through.

    This material has a number of advantages, including the following:

    • natural composition;
    • high wear resistance and durability - walls made of glass blocks are resistant to abrasion, mechanical damage, moisture, and temperature changes;
    • due to the presence of an air gap, glass blocks retain heat well and provide excellent sound insulation, approaching in this indicator the characteristics of a brick wall or modern plastic double-glazed windows;
    • a wall made of glass blocks can withstand even a mild earthquake. In addition, glass blocks are not flammable; in the event of a fire, they do not melt or crack for a long time;
    • ease of assembly and ease of use - glass blocks are a unique building material that does not require subsequent finishing in the form of cladding or painting, since they themselves have pronounced decorative properties;
    • moisture resistance, thanks to which glass blocks can be used for construction interior partitions and walls, as well as glazing of windows in rooms in the mode high humidity(in swimming pools, bathrooms, toilets).

    Glass blocks effectively dissipate Sun rays, without preventing their penetration into the room, giving the lighting softness and comfort. At the same time, transparent products provide the effect of a panoramic view, and corrugated ones close the room from prying eyes.

    Application of glass blocks

    Decorative glass blocks in the interior of premises various styles look very impressive. They are convenient to integrate into various surfaces for decorating walls, windows, and partitions.

    This material is used in construction for the following purposes:

    • when remodeling housing to erect walls in a new convenient option, since glass blocks allow you to build walls without weighing down the space. Please note that this material cannot be used for the construction load-bearing walls, since a similar load may appear for a given building material excessive. It is worth considering that a wall made of glass blocks, separating the room from the hall or corridor, lets in sunlight and will add illumination to the room, and embossed glass blocks will protect the room from prying eyes;
    • a partition made of glass blocks with a flat or stepped top can be erected quickly and without special costs labor and time. This design is especially relevant in bathrooms and toilets. Since this material has water-repellent properties, it can be used to create bathing areas. Glass blocks in the bathroom allow for zoning different zones, protecting from prying eyes when swimming and protecting the room from splashing water. Such glass block partitions look very harmonious in a room with high humidity. Showers made from glass blocks are safer to use than their glass counterparts.

    How to install glass blocks with your own hands

    To install glass blocks with your own hands, you will need to take into account a number of nuances of working with this construction and decorative material. It is important to note that glass blocks can only form a built-in structure, which requires support in the form of a wall or an end post.

    There are several methods for laying glass blocks:

    • classic method - using a wooden guide frame or a module made of metal profile, which is attached to the floor, walls and ceiling. Cement mortar is used to secure the masonry; in addition, tile adhesive can be used as an adhesive for glass blocks. Tile adhesive is more viscous and elastic, while it dries quickly and fixes glass blocks efficiently;
    • frame method - conveniently mount glass blocks on a base in the form of a special frame, and they must be fixed using a compact structure. To secure the masonry to the frame, you can use silicone sealant, liquid nails, etc.

    The classic method of installing glass blocks

    Before installation, the surface to be treated should be cleared of debris, dust and remnants of old finishing. Then you need to apply markings to the base base. To determine the size of the wooden module (frame) for fixing the masonry, you need to lay out a row of glass blocks and insert plastic dividers between them. After this, you should measure its length and height and calculate the required dimensions of the frame, which will be installed in place of the future laying of glass blocks. After drilling holes in the frame, it must be attached to wall structure using 50mm dowels and screws. To level the frame module, you can use wood chips placed between the wall and its supporting surface.

    After preparing the base surface, you will need to prepare an adhesive mixture. To lay glass blocks, you can use tile adhesive or prepare a cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1:3. In order to increase the plasticity of the mixture, it is recommended to add PVA glue to it (at the rate of 200 g of glue per five buckets of solution). For laying transparent glass blocks, it is preferable to use adhesives white– in this case, the seams of the structure will look more aesthetically pleasing. Please note that you should not prepare a large amount of adhesive solution at once, as it tends to harden quickly.

    Before installation, it is necessary to check the integrity of the glass blocks, since manufacturers provide a guarantee for this material before starting installation work. The protective film should not be removed from the blocks until work is completed to prevent damage to the glass plates. If such a film is not available, you can use any polyethylene film, securing it to the surface of the blocks using paper tape.

    When installing glass blocks, you should use reinforcement by laying rods made of galvanized or stainless steel wire vertically and horizontally in the joints of the masonry - so that they form metal mesh, fixing structure. To do this, reinforcing rods must be secured in the wall structure, fixing them in pre-prepared holes. Metal rods are laid on plastic mounting crosses, and contact with the glass should be avoided. At the end of the work, the crosses remain inside the masonry and are rubbed down.

    To lay glass blocks, you can use the following step-by-step instructions:

    • first you will need to install vertical reinforcing rods into the holes on the bottom of the frame;
    • next should be applied to horizontal surface frames at the bottom with adhesive solution up to 1 cm thick;
    • Having laid the mortar on the side surface of the frame to fix the first glass block, you should install the first glass “brick” and fix it by pressing it into the layer of mortar;
    • according to this principle, it is necessary to lay out the bottom row, leveling it with a mallet, and then install mounting crosses between the glass blocks, apply a layer of adhesive mixture on top and install a reinforcing horizontal rod, fixing it in a previously prepared hole;
    • Next, you will need to sequentially lay glass blocks in rows according to the method described above, interspersing them with reinforcing rods.

    To avoid subsidence and curvature of the constructed wall, it is recommended to carry out installation gradually - 3-5 rows at a time, leaving time for further drying of the seams for at least 12 hours. After fixing the glass blocks, remove excess adhesive mixture with a sponge.

    After installation, you should wait until the structure dries completely - this will take several days. Next, you will need to carefully chop off the parts protruding from the masonry. plastic crosses, If there are any. In addition, you should pay attention to the seams - in order for them to look quite aesthetically pleasing, it is necessary to apply a grouting compound suitable shade. To seal the seams you will need to use silicone sealant.

    After completing the above work, you should thoroughly wipe the glass blocks with a clean cloth. Leftovers if necessary glue mixture can be removed from the glass surface using an anti-scale agent or solution of hydrochloric acid– in this case, you will need to make sure that this liquid does not penetrate the seams.

    To install round-shaped structures made of glass blocks, the same classical installation method is used. The only difference is that when arched laying it is necessary to bend the horizontal reinforcement, giving it the desired shape in order to obtain rounded wall. In this case, mounting crosses for adjusting the thickness of laying seams should only be used with inside designs. To lay the rounded part of the wall, it is recommended to use halves of glass blocks, since in this case a thicker layer will be used. reinforcement mesh, strengthening the structure. In addition, by using smaller bricks, it is easy to minimize the discrepancy between the external and internal seams, as a result of which the wall will look neater.

    Frame method of installing glass blocks

    To install glass blocks, you can use an easy-to-implement, but more expensive method of laying without cement mortar. This design is lighter and looks more aesthetically pleasing compared to the classic installation method.

    To do this you will need to use a specially made frame system in the form of a metal module or a wooden one (made from dry sanded boards) - with cells suitable size, into which glass blocks are inserted. In this case, it is necessary that the cell size matches the size of the glass blocks with an accuracy of 2 mm. This design will need to be painted suitable color and securely attach it to the walls, floor and ceiling - for this you should use dowels or anchors. It is important to carefully align this module vertically and horizontally.

    Next, you will need to place glass blocks into the cells of the prepared frame and fix them at the joints using silicone sealant, resembling colorless rubber after hardening. It will take up to 10 hours for the joints to dry, after which frame construction will be ready for use.

    Application of glass blocks - photo

    Installation of glass blocks - video

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    Laying glass blocks with your own hands cannot be done without special diligence and attention. But if you take into account all the nuances and subtleties of installing glass blocks, then this procedure will turn into an exciting activity.

    Before installing glass blocks with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with all (there are three!) installation methods glass structure. Each method has its own duration, cost and labor intensity.

    The traditional way of laying glass blocks with your own hands

    The first method is cheaper, simpler and takes little time, but it is not very aesthetically pleasing, which is its main disadvantage compared to other methods.

    Preparatory work

    Laying glass blocks

    1. Clean the surfaces of the walls, ceiling and floor, i.e. those places where the glass blocks will be installed, from dust, chalk, linoleum and other old materials. 2. Mark the location of the future glass block structure directly on the surface of the bases along their entire length using a level, pencil and cord. 3. Proceed with the preparation of the solution with which the glass blocks will be held together.

    Cement mortar is used in the following proportion:

    • one bucket of cement,
    • three buckets of clean river sand,
    • one bucket of water,
    • 200 gr. PVA glue for better adhesion and plasticity of the adhesive solution. Or they simply use a special dry mixture for laying tiles or bricks.

    Photo gallery preparatory work before laying glass blocks

    Important! If you decide to use cement, then buy it in white color.

    4. Having decided on the choice of mixture, mix the solution thoroughly in a plastic bowl using a mixer and an electric drill and leave until “ripened” for about 5 minutes. Then mix gently again.

    Important! If the adhesive solution is not very thick, it is prepared correctly, but it should not flow off the trowel when laying glass blocks. And this solution cannot be used again, because after drying it will lose its adhesive properties.

    Laying glass blocks with your own hands

    Drilling holes for reinforcing bars

    1. Install the first two reinforcing rods on the floor surface.

    Important! These rods must be either of stainless steel, or galvanized to prevent rust that may occur with outside masonry and worsen the appearance of the glass block structure. Also, due to corrosion, the block system will weaken.

    So, drill holes in the wall, into which then place the first two rods.

    Important! Drill holes at the very border of the floor and wall. The distance between them should ensure that the reinforcement is placed between internal walls glass blocks.

    Installation of reinforcing bars

    Important! Lay not only horizontal, but also vertical rods after laying the glass blocks of the first and subsequent rows. And don't forget to drill holes!

    2. The first two rods are laid. Using a trowel, apply the adhesive solution to the entire surface of the base. 3. Slowly lay the glass blocks while simultaneously inserting the vertical rods and filling the gaps adhesive solution. Using spacer crosses for glass blocks, which need to be installed in each joint between the blocks, you can control the thickness of the gaps between the glass “bricks” so that it is the same.

    Laying the first row of glass blocks

    4. After laying the glass blocks with your own hands, remove the remaining mortar using a damp sponge or cloth, and iron the seams between the blocks with a jointing spatula.

    Important! If you assemble glass blocks with your own hands and fill the seams between them with colored grout, then a spatula is not needed. It is necessary to clear the cracks for grouting using a spatula.

    5. When the installation of glass blocks comes to an end and there are 3 or 4 glass block rows left to lay, then perform the same operations that you performed when drilling holes in the floor, but only now in the ceiling.

    Cleaning the seams between glass blocks

    6. Installation of glass blocks is completed. Again, clean the seams between the blocks from glue and their surface itself. The all-glass block structure will dry out within 5 to 10 days. 7. After the glass block structure has completely dried, grout the interblock holes diagonally using a rubber or foam float. It is better to use moisture-resistant grout so that the glass block partition will serve you for decades. 8. Remove any remaining mortar from the glass blocks again. To completely remove small excess grout and give the glass block structure a dazzling shine, wipe its surface with a clean and dry cloth.

    Glass blocks - DIY installation of arched walls and partitions

    Curved glass block partition

    Do correct styling glass blocks with your own hands, if the walls and partitions have a rounded appearance, you can follow the same instructions given above.

    However differences between this installation and the previous one There is:

    1) Reinforcing bars bend in those places where the partition or wall is rounded, according to their shape.

    2) Install crosses for glass blocks only inside the curves so that the thickness of the hidden seams does not change. On the outside of the wall, the seams automatically take on equal width.

    Important! If you want to fragmentarily round the wall with glass blocks, then use the so-called. "halves" of blocks. This, firstly, will give your structure strength, and secondly, the internal and external seams will practically not diverge in thickness.

    Do-it-yourself frame method for laying glass blocks

    Wood frame

    Technology frame method Installing glass blocks is much more difficult than traditional ones. This method is more expensive and more effective from an aesthetic point of view than the traditional method.

    In addition, at frame version Installing glass blocks has a huge advantage: it is practically not used cement mixture with glue, and the design is easier.

    Preparatory work

    1. Measure the dimensions of the space for the future glass block partition.

    Frame assembly

    2. Based on the obtained parameters, make dry and smooth slabs required thickness and size of wooden frame. Important! The dimensions of the cells in which the glass blocks will be installed should provide a gap of no more than 2 mm.

    Assemble the frame either by gluing it or screw it together using special fasteners.

    3. Wooden frame ready. Paint it in desired color, using thin-layer paint, and dry until completely dry.

    4. Place the painted frame in the previously prepared space and use anchors or dowels to attach it to the walls, floor and ceiling.

    Laying glass blocks with your own hands

    Installation of glass blocks

    1. Insert glass blocks into each cell prepared earlier.

    2. When all the cells are filled with glass blocks, fix them with colorless silicone. To do this: Apply this sealant at all joints between the glass blocks and the frame so that the glass “bricks” never fall out.

    3. Allow the sealant to dry for approximately 8 hours. Important! Where glass blocks meet drywall, use a simple putty. Otherwise, when the sealant dries, marks will remain on the sheets of drywall.

    Laying glass blocks is possible in three ways: traditional, using modular systems and using the BlocLock system.

    The first is universal, suitable for interior and exterior work, allows the construction of structures of any size and shape, however, the use of cement mortar, glue for ceramic tiles and glass requires skill.

    The other two methods are based on the use of special modular systems for installing blocks or guides to which they are glued. These technologies make it possible to assemble elements from glass blocks without any experience or knowledge in construction.

    Glass blocks are laid indoors at the stage finishing, after screeding the floor and plastering the walls, but before applying the finishing coatings.

    When used outside, glass blocks are placed when completed Basic structure, and if a separate element is created, then after the foundation has hardened (after 28 days).

    The first masonry method will require accurate calculation of horizontal and vertical dimensions structures made of glass blocks, so that each row fits a whole number of products and leaves 10 mm for seams between them.

    With other methods, the accuracy of the masonry is ensured by the structural elements on which the blocks are installed.

    The surface prepared for installation must always be absolutely flat and horizontal.

    Every third or fourth horizontal and vertical rows are reinforced with steel rods with a diameter of 4-8 mm (made of stainless steel or with anti-corrosion coating).

    The reinforcement must be located in the thickness of the solution and not come into contact with the glass.

    A wall made of glass blocks must be completely independent of the supporting structures adjacent to it.

    In the first installation method, the connection of the transparent section with the load-bearing main wall is made only through sliding spacers, the anchors are secured freely. The connection of the partition made of glass blocks to the ceiling and floor must be done using elastic gaskets. Modular systems are rigidly fixed.

    The seams between glass blocks are made no more than 10 mm.

    When laying on the mortar, special mounting crosses made of plastic are used, which help to correctly align each element. Without crosses, if the mortar dries unevenly, the wall may become distorted.

    Materials and tools (per 1 m2 of construction)

    Materials (seam - 10 mm):

    • Glass blocks 190×190×80 mm - 25 pcs.
    • Glass blocks 190×90×80 - 50 pcs.
    • Glass blocks 240×240×80 mm - 16 pcs.
    • Glue (for glass blocks or ceramic tiles) - 25 kg.
    • Mounting crosses - 36 pcs.
    • Stainless steel fittings with a diameter of 6-8 mm - 6-8 m.
    • Joint expansion joints (cork, felt, bitumen or PVC tape) - 1-4 m, depending on the presence of abutment to structures.

    Tools:

    • Trowel (for applying the solution).
    • Level and plumb line (to check the horizontality and verticality of the structures being built and adjacent to it).
    • Wooden slats (for setting the boundaries of the partition on the base).
    • Rubber hammer (for leveling blocks).
    • Knife, grout, sponge (for cutting off protruding parts of crosses, making seams, cleaning the surface).

    The surface of the base is cleaned of dust and grease and two wooden slats to fix the direction of laying blocks.

    Laying glass blocks on mortar: master class

    An elastic compensation material is placed between the slats on the base. On the support (to which the glass blocks are attached) holes are made for the reinforcement. A layer of mortar or glue about 30 mm thick is applied along the entire length of the base.

    Installation of blocks begins from the wall (or other adjacent element), moving horizontally. On the first block in the bottom row, the mortar is applied to the side facing the wall and laid, leaving a 10 mm thick seam.

    When installing the second block, the mixture is applied to the side facing the previous one. A mounting cross is inserted between the blocks at the top. Laying continues until the end of the row, the second row is mounted in the same way.

    If the solution gets on the front side, it is removed immediately (when chipping dried cement, you can scratch the block).

    The third row of masonry is reinforced with reinforcement. Two rods are placed directly on the mounting crosses, inserted into the holes in the adjacent wall, and secured with mortar (if there is no wall, the reinforcement will end flush with the outer blocks).

    After every third row, check the verticality of the masonry with a plumb line and stop the installation for 1 hour when working with glue and for 1 day when working with cement-sand mortar. This is necessary for the composition to set (on glass it dries slowly).

    After complete completion of the masonry and drying of the mortar, remove the outer plates of the mounting crosses and remove protective film from glass blocks.

    Then the grout mixture is applied to the seams, after it has set, the surface is leveled and the blocks are cleaned.

    Cement and glue stains are removed using salt or acetic acid(alkalis, solvents, hydrofluoric acid cannot be used).

    To give waterproof properties to the seams, they are treated with a water repellent.

    How to install glass block partitions: using modular systems

    This assembly method is only for interior work. The module is a lattice made of wood, plastic or MDF with cells calculated according to the size of the glass block.

    Typically, a module contains no more than 10 cells vertically and 2-4 horizontally. For a longer wall, several modules are purchased.

    Maximum permissible design dimensions based on modular system− 4 × 4 m, with larger size Metal profiles are mounted between its parts.

    The system is attached to the floor, walls and ceiling using screws. Then the cells are filled with glass blocks, fixing them with rubber inserts (which make it easy to remove and replace the blocks) or sealant (it is used if it is necessary to improve the soundproofing qualities of the structure).

    The frame frame takes on all the loads, protecting the glass block from them, allows you to increase the speed of construction, and make the structure level and vertical.

    Glass block partitions using the BlocLock system

    This installation method is also intended for interior work. It is based on the use of plastic guides, the width of which is equal to the thickness of the side wall of the block. The guides have different sizes: long ones correspond to the length of the structure, short ones - to the side of the block.

    The system uses special glass blocks - with a profile that matches the profile of the guides and is designed for a joining seam 2-5 mm wide.

    When starting installation, the first, long guide is glued to a horizontal base.

    Then glass blocks are glued onto it, joining them together in a row through short guides and fixing them with glue.

    Having laid out the entire row, glue the next long guide on top of it and assemble it further in the same way. This method allows you to create a smooth, strictly vertical, neat wall.

    Reinforcement is not provided, and the height of the structure should not exceed 2 m.

    The kit, including glue for connecting the system elements, is purchased in the store, choosing the number of blocks and guides required for the intended design.

    Special cases when installing glass blocks

    You can lay out a curved structure from glass blocks. When laying from whole blocks, the minimum radius of curvature is 5 m; with a smaller radius, it is better to use half glass blocks.

    On the inside the seam width is left 10 mm, on the outside it will be larger. A template (for example, made of foam plastic or thick cardboard) is fixed to the base, fixing the direction in which the wall is laid out. The reinforcement is bent, also using a template.

    It is permissible to use rods with minimum diameter(this will not affect the strength of the masonry, since curved structures are more stable than straight ones).

    Sometimes it is necessary to make a door in a glass block wall. Its box is attached to a U-shaped metal frame with a U-shaped profile, firmly attached to the supporting structures.

    Glass blocks are laid around the frame, using a shock-absorbing pad with a thickness of at least 10 mm at the junction points. In a similar way, a window is built into such a wall.

    Glass block construction can be used door frame width multiple of 20 cm - 60, 80, 100, 120 cm.

    You cannot hang a door that is too heavy (for example, a metal one); you must avoid sharp impacts when slamming by installing a braking device for the door leaf.

    However, given the complexity of installing and operating a door surrounded by glass, if possible, it is better to make it in a regular wall.



     
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