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How to make an extension to a wooden house more beautiful. Extension to a wooden house: projects, construction technologies, choosing the optimal option. Do-it-yourself frame extension: step-by-step instructions and video

Sometimes there is a need to modify your home. There are different goals - to expand the kitchen, add a veranda, equip Utility room or additional living room. Then the question arises for the home owner. What to do? A common option for expanding the area is to add an extension to the house yourself. It's cheaper than building whole house. Allows you to avoid credit loans for years, which not everyone can afford. In general, it may not be very expensive. This refers only to the construction itself. A house equipped with properly executed extensions becomes more comfortable and beautiful.

Organizational aspects

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Veranda with glazing

During any construction, they begin with preparatory work. The site is thoroughly cleared of debris and everything necessary for construction is prepared.

A drainage system is required under the structure. To do this, the earth is compacted and a slope is made in this place to allow water to drain.

Foundation

The foundation for the construction of a structure can be strip or columnar. Everyone has their own qualities. To choose the most suitable one, you must first study each one.

Strip foundation

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Strip foundation

This basis is performed in the following order:

• Markings are made with a rope and the construction site is traced. It is pulled and fixed. Using this marking, a trench is dug to the depth of the base of the main building and 10-15 cm wider than the wall
• The bottom of the trench is covered with a 10-12 cm layer of sand. All this is thoroughly compacted. Next comes crushed stone, which also needs to be compacted. Broken bricks may be used
• The next step is to lay a waterproofing film along the trench. It extends 40-50 cm above the ground. It closes the foundation from the inside and the formwork above the ground. Then the reinforcement is fixed. Its design in shape should be a repetition of the foundation at full height
• Concrete mortar should consist of cement with gravel. It fills 1/3 of the trench height. This layer must harden completely. Next comes another layer of concrete. It will fill half of the remaining height
• Having installed the formwork, a base is formed. The waterproofing remains in the formwork, spread along its walls and secured on top. The film should not slide into the concrete. The formwork is completely filled with concrete. The solution must be pierced with a shovel so that there are no air cavities inside. The formwork is also lightly tapped so that the resulting vibration compacts the concrete solution well.
• Upon completion of pouring, the concrete is leveled and left to dry completely. It is sprayed with water every day. This makes it more durable. When it hardens, the formwork is removed
• It is recommended to additionally cover the foundation with waterproofing compounds or materials in rolls. This liquid rubber, tar, bitumen mastic and roofing felt. After this they begin to build walls
• The internal space of this foundation is equipped various options. For example, using a concrete screed or flooring made of floor beams and joists, with the subsequent installation of a wooden floor

Columnar foundation

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Columnar foundation

This type of foundation is built from brick or concrete. Possibly from both materials. This base is used for the construction of verandas and living rooms, with plans to install boardwalks in the future.

The foundation is carried out in the following order:

• First, markings of the selected site for construction are also applied.
• The pillars should be placed 1.5 m from each other. For them, pits measuring 50x50 cm and a depth of 50-60 cm are dug. The dimensions of the pit at the top expand by approximately 10 cm on each side
• Next, the bottom of the pits is strengthened with sand and gravel. Waterproofing is being laid
• A layer of cement mortar is poured under the brick supports. It should freeze completely. After this is done brickwork
• For concrete pillars reinforcement and formwork are installed in the pit to the height of the future pillar. The waterproofing film is laid inside the formwork and secured on top
• The formwork is filled with concrete mortar in layers, each of which is allowed to dry.
• The top of the column is leveled and sprinkled with water every day until the concrete has completely hardened.
• After this, the formwork is removed. Using warm bitumen mastic the pillars are covered with roofing felt
• The void around the pillars is filled with earth and crushed stone. Every 10-15 cm it must be compacted
• Roofing material is laid on the pillars in several layers. It will be waterproofing protection wooden blocks. They will be installed on top

Floor Basics

Floors made of wood and concrete are laid on a strip foundation. The tree is also laid for columnar foundation without jumpers.

Concrete base

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Concrete base

For the reliability and warmth of the floor screed on a strip foundation, work is carried out in stages using a specific technology:

• First, the soil is removed from the foundation. It is loosened and removed. The depth of the pit should be approximately 25-35 cm
• The bottom is filled with 10 cm of sand. It compacts well. Next, crushed stone or expanded clay is laid at a depth of 15-20 cm. The second material makes the screed warm
• Everything is well leveled and the reinforcing grid is laid. A system of beacons is installed on it at a horizontal level. Some rooms require a surface slope. For example, in the bathroom or on open terrace, water from the floor should flow without obstacles to the drainage system
• The next step is to pour cement and level it. After a day it is recommended to cover it plastic film. This will make it more uniform, durable
• When the structure is ready, it can be laid on a concrete base. flooring or wooden floor

Wooden beam base

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Wooden beam base

• To ensure durable floors, choose high-quality crossbars.
• Wooden blocks, 15x10 cm thick in cross-section, are placed on the foundation, on a roofing felt backing.
• They are attached to concrete using through connections or corners.
• The beams are also fastened to each other with powerful corners. All this will hold securely.

Wall materials

Any materials can be used for the construction of an additional extension. The walls are built of brick, frame, or foam blocks. The main thing is that all this has good combination with the main house.

Repeat external finishing It won't be a big deal at home. Wood, for example, goes well with all materials and looks good without additional processing.

Frame walls

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The construction of a frame structure is a good option:

• construction is fast, in a matter of months
• due to the ease of construction, no capital foundation is required
• you can do it yourself
• inexpensive in price

The basics of the house and self-construction are done on the same level. The connection should not be capital, because The extension will sag after some time. Done expansion joint. Frame structures They do not shrink vertically, which makes them very attractive.

The frame for the walls is made of timber and attached to pre-assembled crown beams. The beams can be fastened separately. But it will be easier to put all the pieces together special fastenings, and then install them together.

To connect the frame to the main building, vertical markings are made. Precision is required here. After installation, to make the frame stronger, it is immediately upholstered.

The top beam along the house is attached to main wall anchor bolts. The walls are insulated after the roof is installed.

Brick walls

Brick walls require a perfectly flat foundation surface. Everything is checked. If there are any irregularities, they need to be corrected. Otherwise, this will lead to cracking between the bricks when the structure shrinks.

Mostly brick structures attached to a house made of the same material. They tie him up metal frame, which is placed in the prepared holes. They are made in the main wall at 2/3 depth. Repeat every 2-3 rows. The reinforcement should protrude from the wall by at least half a meter and be in the joints of the masonry. It is important to take thin rods. Otherwise, the seams in this place will be very wide. Or you will have to make a recess in the bricks for the reinforcement.

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The brick extension is also attached to the tree with a frame. It is placed in through-drilled holes. Transverse stops are made on the reinforcement. They will keep them in the wall.

To follow the rows horizontally, you need to pull a cord along the future wall. A plumb line is used to check vertically.

The thickness of the wall will depend on the functionality of the attached structure. For a living room, bricks are laid in 1-2 layers. For a terrace or outbuilding, a layer of half a brick will be enough.

Upon completion, the brick walls are surrounded with concrete on top. To do this, establish a form in which the reinforcement is placed. All this is concreted. When the solution has hardened, the form is removed and the roofing begins to be installed.

Laying brick walls is not as easy as it might seem. This requires experience. The best option will entrust the work to a professional. Or make walls from a different material.

Walls made of foam blocks

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Foam concrete has its own distinctive qualities among building materials:

• The work does not require any special skills. Construction is possible on difficult soil
• Because the blocks large sizes and lightweight, assembly takes less time and effort compared to laying brick or timber
• The material is durable, environmentally friendly, non-flammable and meets all standards fire safety. It also has low thermal conductivity and “breathes” well, which creates an optimal indoor climate
• Inexpensive, easy to assemble and easy to drill
• An extension made of foam blocks practically does not shrink and has a fairly long service life.

• Additional protection is required because... the material is soon lost thermal insulation due to its high hygroscopicity

Almost finished extension from concrete blocks

Construction of foam concrete requires a strict sequence of stages:

• It is necessary to start laying from the corner points
• The blocks are moistened from below to increase adhesion. The initial row is covered with several layers of protection against capillary moisture
• The quality of the assembly is affected by the horizontal and vertical position of the first row. Therefore, strict adherence to all rules is required. Horizontal irregularities are corrected using a solution
• Used between clutches adhesive composition. The connections are no more than 1 mm, which minimizes their space, in other words, “cold bridges”
• The composition is prepared strictly following the rules. It is applied on top and sides of the blocks. Each brick is aligned horizontally and vertically
• Using a sanding float, the horizontality of each row is leveled. The debris that is generated must be thoroughly swept away
• The corners and every 5 rows are reinforced with rods that will bind the structure and prevent cracking. For what circular saw Make cuts 3 cm wide and 5 cm deep. Then the recesses are knocked out with a hammer and chisel. They need to be cleaned. Welded rods are laid in the middle of the recesses and filled with adhesive

For window and doorways install jumpers no more than 1.75 m wide. They are made using formwork - removable or permanent. The strength of foam concrete is not designed for large openings. It’s better then to choose a cinder block or sand-lime brick. It's more solid foundation. The height of the lintel will depend on the thickness of the future floor.

For removable mold, weld first metal constructions the right size. On the sides of the opening, bars are nailed for support, and a form is installed on them. Shields are attached to the sides. Foam blocks are cut into narrow blocks. They arrange the form from the inside. The end result will be something like a trough.

The reinforcement frame is placed so that the side with the a large number twigs All this is secured with spacers. Then the blocks are moistened, filled with concrete solution around the perimeter of the walls and compacted. The poured concrete is leveled to the level of the blocks in the formwork and smoothed well.

For non-removable form useU-shaped blocks. Installation of the form itself is not required. Less time is spent on work.

To lay such blocks you need:

• Place the block with the support cut out on the sides of the opening. Next, check the horizontality of the supports using the hose level. All irregularities are corrected with a sanding float.
• The U-block is installed on the glue with the hole facing up. Afterwards, a structure of reinforcement is placed so that there is a large number of rods below. It is secured with spacers
• The block is moistened. Concrete layers are laid on top. They are carefully compacted with a trowel

It is very important to install a reinforced belt on the building. This will make it resistant to different types deformation, wind loads, will increase the load-bearing capacity. Reinforced belt insanely heavy. They do it right on the walls.

Ceiling and roofing

When the walls are already erected, they begin to work on the ceiling. Crossbars are used for this. They are installed on the walls 60-70 cm from each other. They are fastened with special corners.

When installing crossbars on brick extension, they are embedded in a concrete belt. The sides of the crossbars are wrapped in roofing material. Then all this is hemmed with boards or thick plywood. Insulation material is laid between the sheathing and the crossbars.

For a number of reasons, some private houses and cottages need additional premises. Room for kitchen, bathroom or covered veranda- everyone has their own plans for additional extension. This article will help you understand how to build a high-quality extension to your house yourself.

Premises requirements

It is possible to make an extension to your house with your own hands. It's best when appearance such a room will be combined with the house itself. But this factor is not always the most important; the main thing is that the extension is durable and of high quality. Considering the lightness and reliability of the structure, many choose a frame extension to the house. It is inexpensive, reliable and quickly erected.

Think through all the details in advance. Each type of room has its own nuances. The veranda does not provide heating, unlike the additional room. If it will be a kitchen or bathroom, lay engineering Communication and pipes even before construction begins, take care of future insulation and waterproofing.

Choose the best one in advance optimal size extensions

Construction of the foundation for the extension

The most important point in the construction of an extension, arrangement is considered. If the owner took part in the construction of the house, he knows all the nuances of the size and design of the old foundation. When purchasing already finished house such information may not be available. In this case, you need to dig a hole yourself near the wall of the house and take measurements of the foundation, its depth and determine the nature of the soil.

Decide whether the building foundations will be connected by a rigid connection or a foundation new extension will be separate

Strip foundation

The strip foundation is poured in the shape of a rectangle in two ways: closed, and also in the shape of the letter “P”, open.

There are several options for connecting the foundations of the house and the extension:

With a closed method of pouring concrete:

• install a sheet of expanded polystyrene 50 mm thick between the foundation strips. It will be part of the formwork when pouring concrete. After filling, the remaining gap must be sealed with sealant;
• connect the ends of the foundations to each other reinforced frame. At the end of the base of the house, drill holes in two staggered rows. Place reinforcing bars there, which you will later connect to the frame of the extension’s foundation;

With the open filling method:

• pour the foundation of the extension in the shape of the letter “P”, and install insulation on the crack in the house;
• To connect buildings, drill holes for reinforcement only at the junction of two foundations.

For strip foundation They dig a trench and cover it with a cushion of sand and rubble. After this, the formwork is erected and reinforcement begins

Columnar foundation

If your extension has small sizes and weight, columnar type of foundation - good alternative tape Such a base is suitable for erecting a frame extension with high level groundwater.

Stages of construction of a columnar foundation of an extension:

1. Dig holes deeper than the freezing level of the soil; the distance between them should not exceed 1.5 meters.
2. Place a bed of sand and gravel at the bottom of the holes. Compact the material well and lay the roofing felt.
3. Prepare strong formwork from boards or plywood for each pit.
4. Reinforce the formwork using 4 bars of periodic profile reinforcement.
5. Fill in concrete mixture into the formwork, wait for complete hardening. Remove the formwork and make a grillage.

A column foundation is suitable for light extensions and is one of the simplest and most cost-effective types of foundations

Installation of the base floor of the extension

For a columnar foundation, a wooden floor base is suitable. When constructing a strip base, there is a choice between wooden and concrete floors. If the extension room will be used as an additional room, care must be taken high-quality thermal insulation and a flat surface.

When comparing the properties of durability and strength, a concrete floor takes a leading place, but a wooden house has good heat and sound insulation. Wood beams are also faster and easier to install.

Concrete floor

Before pouring the floor, consider the soil characteristics of the extension. Concrete floors are not installed on moving soil. If the room is never heated, over time concrete structure may become deformed.

The construction of a concrete floor includes the following steps:

1. After the strip foundation has completely dried, dig inside the structure upper layer soil by 25-35 cm and compact the surface of the earth.
2. Fill up river sand 10 cm thick. Compact and lay two layers of roofing felt in a checkerboard pattern.
3. Fill in expanded clay to a thickness of 15 cm. Install special beacons or bricks around the perimeter of the expanded clay cushion. Place a building level on top and level the base of the floor. If the extension is being built for summer cottage, it is not necessary to lay the reinforcing grid.
4. Pour in a high-quality concrete solution, level it using the rule and wait for complete hardening.

Building level will help make the surface of the concrete floor as smooth as possible

Floor on wooden beams

For a columnar foundation structure or frame extension, it is necessary to install load-bearing logs. They act as the skeleton of the building, evenly distributing the load throughout the entire extension.

The beams are laid using the following technology:

1. Install and secure a double layer of waterproofing on the foundation pillars.
2. Before installation wooden beams treat with a special antiseptic.
3. Lay the floor beams on the foundation pillars and secure with corners. Fasten the beams together in the same way.

Load-bearing logs must be large and made of quality wood, the strength of the entire structure depends on them

Construction of extension walls

The walls for the extension are selected according to a material similar to the house itself. The most common materials for building walls are brick and wood.

To connect the walls of two buildings, it is better not to use a rigid connection. Age difference between old and new wall can lead to uneven subsidence and the appearance of cracks. Leave a distance of 2-3 cm between the walls of the building, which after erecting the walls, fill it with polyurethane foam.

Frame walls

Necessary materials for construction frame walls is high-quality wood and mounting angles. We install the frame to the base of the extension on the supporting elements installed earlier.

1. Mount first corner posts, fixing them with reinforced steel corners. Fasten the intermediate beams either using the full cutting method, or in the same way as the corner beams.
2. Additionally secure the intermediate beams with temporary bevels, which must be removed after complete installation extension walls.
3. Secure the upper tier of the frame in the same way as the lower part. For better strength, each beam can be fixed with braces on both sides.
4. After installing the frame, carry out the sheathing external walls extensions using wooden boards or sheets of plywood.

fasten wooden elements using corners is faster and more reliable than using the method of complete or partial cutting of the thickness of the timber

Brick walls

The technology for constructing brick walls includes the following stages:

1. Before starting construction, level the foundation using cement-sand screed. Lay a layer of roofing material on top for waterproofing. Lay the first row of bricks on roofing felt without the help of mortar.
2. Attach small diameter reinforcing bars to the brick rows of the main house. Drill holes every two rows of brick. During the process of bricklaying the extension, protruding reinforcement from the walls of the main house will end up in the joints between the new brick laid.
3. Stretch a rope parallel to the wall, which will help build the brick rows as evenly as possible. Between every third row of bricks you can lay reinforcing mesh, which will reduce shrinkage and increase the strength of the walls.

After erecting the walls, tie them at the top with a concrete belt. Pour concrete mortar into the constructed reinforced formwork.

The laying of the first row begins from the corner, and the thickness of the walls depends on the functions of the future extension

Extension ceiling and roofing

The roof of the extension should also be in harmony with the main building. Choose a quality one roofing material and swipe construction calculations sizes and angles of inclination. For slate and metal tiles optimal angle tilt from 30-40º, for metal profiles – from 20º, for corrugated sheets – from 12º.

The technology of the roofing process includes the following stages:

1. Install on the walls ceilings as wooden beams. Secure them with corners at a distance of 50-70 cm from each other. If the walls are made of brick, embed the beams into concrete. Then cover them with boards and insulate them.
2. Lay the Mauerlat around the perimeter of the side walls. It will serve as a support for the rafters, which are erected at a distance of no more than 70 cm from each other. The spacing between the rafters and the floor beams should be the same. To protect the walls from water, the rafters must extend beyond the walls by 30 cm.
3. Place a special waterproofing film on the rafters and install lathing in the form of horizontal boards.
4. Place the selected roofing material on the sheathing.

The simplest and affordable option For self-roofing considered a pitched roof

Insulating the extension from the inside

If the extension room will serve as a living room, it is important to take care of high-quality thermal insulation of the floor, ceiling and walls. For better ventilation concrete walls The premises are insulated from the outside. Suitable material foam or mineral wool is used.

Floor insulation on beams

To provide insulation and floor covering, a subfloor is installed. Cross boards are laid on the supporting joists of the extension.

Further technology includes the following steps:

1. Lay a waterproofing film on the subfloor, on top of which install additional joists.
2. To insulate the floor between additional joists, lay several layers of polystyrene foam or mineral wool.
3. Lay another layer of vapor barrier on top, on which sheets of oriented strand board will be laid.
4. Install fine coating floor.

Waterproofing film protects the floor from moisture, and OSB sheets serve as a durable coating

Concrete floor

We insulate a concrete floor in the same way as a wooden floor. On concrete screed a layer of waterproofing film is laid. You can install thick logs and cover half their thickness with expanded clay. This will increase the level of thermal insulation. Next, mineral wool, a second layer of film and OSB boards are laid according to the same scheme.

Frame walls

To insulate frame walls, a sheathing of wood blocks is created around the perimeter of the walls and ceiling. The insulation of the extension is carried out using rolls of mineral wool. Thickness wooden block and rolls of cotton wool should be the same. The distance between the bars corresponds to the width of the insulation roll.

After thermal insulation, we waterproof the surfaces. The waterproofing film is laid overlapping and nailed to the sheathing bars. Next, the room is decorated with plastic, sheets of plywood or wooden paneling.

Brick walls

The brick walls of the extension can be insulated outside and inside. Internal insulation carried out in the same way as insulating the walls of a frame extension. For external insulation brick wall foam is often used. The insulation is glued to the outer walls of the building using a special glue in a checkerboard pattern.

The slabs are additionally reinforced with dowels, which are installed in the walls. A reinforcing mesh is applied on top and final plastering is carried out.

Circumstances in life can change in a variety of ways and you may need to increase the space in your home. One of the significant advantages private building the fact is that it is easy to make more of it. Before expanding, it is important to familiarize yourself with how to properly build an extension to a house, even if it will be built by workers.

Various extensions to houses Source stroimsami.online

Projects of structures made of various materials

The extension can have many options for shapes, designs and technical capabilities. Not only the construction material may also differ. Each frame extension To wooden house requires compliance with certain rules and has its own characteristics. A certain type of project may have its pros and cons. That is why it is important to carefully weigh everything and decide what type of project fits better Total.

In construction, material plays a key role. The functionality and cost of the building depend on what raw materials are chosen for construction. For example, in a building made of wooden frame You can live both in summer and winter. If the wall material consists largely of glass, then this type is repurposed only for the warm season. So, there are several types of materials:

• foam blocks,
• beam,
• brickwork,
• frame assembly.

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Source remoo.ru

Form and purpose of the extension

The buildings differ not only in the material chosen for construction, but also in the shape of the structure. Such structures are divided into the following types:

1. Additional room.
2. Veranda with open or closed type.
3. Enlarged porch with canopy.

Additional room

This project involves the construction of another additional room in which you can live all year round. Typically, such projects are made from raw materials that retain heat well and do not allow cold to pass through. Wood serves as an excellent heat insulator, and all rooms are made mainly of wooden beams. You can use foam blocks or bricks, but in this case it is important to be well insulated. This type of project has a number of positive and negative qualities.

Source pol-master.com

1. You can significantly expand the usable area of ​​your home.
2. Unlike a separate building, it is easy to install light and heating.
3. In this case, building an extension to a wooden house will perfectly complement the existing interior and exterior without compromising its integrity.
4. Even after the completion of the construction cycle, the room can be easily converted to suit any needs (bathroom, pantry, kitchen or living room).

1. Good insulation and a strong foundation are required, which guarantees an increase in the overall price of the structure.
2. The implementation of this project requires a lot of free space. This is a significant drawback for those who have a small area.

Enclosed veranda

The project in the form of an attached veranda has two main varieties. The extension to the house, made of brick and timber, is surrounded by four walls that protect it from external factors. Enclosed verandas are rarely heated; they are often used seasonally. The traditional finishing material is glass. This extension fits perfectly into almost any design. The enclosed veranda will be an excellent place to relax in any weather.

Source ro.decorexpro.com

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of installing an extension to a house. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

1. Easy installation.
2. No insects or pests.
3. You can rest during rain or strong wind.
4. If you need an unusual extension to your home, projects can be easily found on the Internet.

1. If you use glass surfaces, then after each rain you should clean them from water stains.
2. For many, the meaning of a veranda is fresh air, but this is not the case indoors.

The frame extension attracts with its simplicity and functionality. Often such projects are made from wooden beams. Similar verandas are used in conjunction with wooden houses made of the same material. This option is much easier to implement than a gazebo. In addition, such extensions generally do not take up much space and require a minimum amount of raw materials. Such projects have gained great popularity due to their practicality and many positive aspects.

Source houzz.com

1. Access to fresh air.
2. Saving on building materials.
3. It is easy to install electricity and internet.
4. Takes up little work space.

1. Annoying insects.
2. It is impossible to stay in snowy or rainy weather or in strong winds.

Porch with canopy

If you need a beautiful extension to a wooden house, porch designs are a great option. This building is mainly of a design nature. Usually the porch is made as a decoration of the house. Old extension projects did not provide any useful functions. Now there are new options for constructing a porch that is highly functional. They are equipped with special armchairs or chairs and can be used as a small gazebo.

Source yandex.ru

1. Simple assembly of the structure.
2. You don't need a strong foundation.
3. Visibly decorates the facade of the built house.
4. Suitable for almost any home made of brick or wood.

1. Installed decorative elements are not protected from vandals.
2. No protection from bad weather conditions.

Construction of a frame extension to a house

Any construction requires careful planning. Adding an extension to a brick house is hard work that requires experience and skill. The same can be said about the implementation of a specific project for wooden structures. It doesn’t matter which type was chosen, the construction principle is the same. The entire construction cycle can be divided into several stages:

1. Construction of the foundation.
2. Walling.
3. Installation of roof and ceiling.

Foundation arrangement

The basis of any building is the foundation, which means it must be made of high-quality materials. If unsuitable raw materials with low performance indicators are used, the extension to the frame house will be damaged. If the foundation begins to collapse, you may have to dismantle the walls and roof, which can result in serious financial costs. In addition to purchasing high-quality materials, it is necessary to strictly follow the technological process.

Source nl.decorexpro.com

Any laying of a new foundation to the old foundation requires accurate calculations. The ideal option is to lay the foundation for two structures at once, but this happens very rarely. For docking, special reinforcement is used, which allows it to cling to the foundation of the house. When pouring, it is important to know and consider two factors:

1. Identity of composition.
2. Uniform depth.

Concrete must completely replicate the composition and structure. This will ensure a uniform structure and a stronger connection. Uniform depth allows the foundation to sink at the same level. If this is not taken into account, cracks will develop along the foundation and the structure of the house will be severely damaged.

Walling

After the foundation is formed, you need to proceed to the next stage - building the walls. There is an unspoken rule - to use material identical to the main building. So, if an extension is being made to a panel house, you need to use walls made of panels, if the house is brick, use bricks, etc. But what to do if there is no similar material? You can use an additional layer of the same cladding. Completely finishing a house is a costly affair, but the problem of unification will be solved.

It is important to remember that if you need an extension to an old wooden house, the projects will have to be chosen in the general style. It is necessary to use the material from which the house is made. The closer the similarity, the more organic the building will look.

Source remontik.org

At the time of planning, you need to understand whether the extension will have its own fourth wall? If the project has it, then what is the gap between the two buildings? If the additional room is well heated and you plan to live in it all year round, then an additional partition is pointless. In a poorly heated room, an air cushion will protect the house from the cold.

A flat floor is the basis of a comfortable life. In order not to suffer later, it is important to make a smooth and even rough base for the floor covering. When performing pouring and screeding, it is important to use modern equipment, such as a laser level. It is important to know that without proper experience in construction and expensive equipment it is impossible to do the perfect job. A “crooked” subfloor will cause complications when building a heated floor. If you lay parquet on a low-quality surface, then squeaking and sagging are a guaranteed result.

Source master-walls.ru

Roof and ceiling installation

As with the walls, the roof top should be an extension of the main house. Due attention should be paid to beams and floors. They must comply with all modern fire safety standards and regulations. If the chosen project does not involve permanent residence, then you can do without insulation. The same applies to the ceiling. For example, in a veranda or porch you can do without a ceiling. It all depends on the plan of the extension and the design of the main building.

Video description

If certain points are not clear, you can watch a video that will explain how to build an extension to a frame house:

Conclusion

When planning the construction of additional square meters, it is worth taking into account that this is a complex technological process. If you take on construction yourself, the risk of making a mistake is increased. To avoid unnecessary expenses, it is better to seek help from professionals who know their business. Having in their arsenal a sufficient amount of experience and professional expensive equipment, they will perform high-quality work in the shortest possible time. As a result, the owner will receive high-quality work without overpayments, wasted time and unnecessary nerves.

Over time, almost every owner of a private home has a desire to enlarge their country house. And an excellent solution in this matter would be an extension to an existing house.

Construction work begins with drawing up a project, where it is necessary to clearly and clearly draw the plan of the planned facility, think through the connection of all the premises with the existing house, choose the type of structures, foundation and decide which building materials will be used. The financial costs of construction will depend on the correct development of the design stage. At this stage, it is also worth deciding on the nature of the use of this building, namely, whether it will be seasonal or year-round, and also decide how many storeys the new building will have.

There are several common types of extensions that can be classified according to their purpose.

Summer room (kitchen or veranda).

Such an extension is usually one-story and is used in the warm season. It is convenient for spending time together, family dinners, relaxation, etc. Of course, it is necessary to construct a light or shallow foundation, preferably independent from the main building of the house.

Such a structure, as a rule, has a pitched roof (Fig. 1, 2). It is recommended to use metal tiles or polycarbonate as roofing materials. In this case, it makes no sense to do thermal insulation, because the room will not be used in winter. It is worth noting that the minimum roof slope angle is 8°; you cannot do less, otherwise leaks will appear after rain and snowfalls.

Living room and attic, if the extension is two-story (Fig. 3, 4).

In this case, a more thorough approach will be required for constructing a foundation, erecting permanent walls and a roof, as well as installing waterproofing and thermal insulation materials, and supplying all utilities.

Particular attention should be paid to the thermal insulation of the walls, roof and floor, taking into account that the extension will be used in the cold season, and therefore heating.

Before starting construction, you need to consider the condition of the house. The pairing of roofing and foundation structures will depend on this criterion. And it is worth considering that due to the difference in the magnitude of the load that the main structure and the extension will exert on the ground, there is a high probability that over time they will move relative to each other.

Another option for an extension to the house could be a separate building, closely adjacent to the main one., which quite often becomes the only possible

due to the fact that the old house may not withstand the reconstruction of the roof, and this will disrupt the stability of the entire structure.

Also the extension may differ in the type of foundation. Usually, a separate foundation is arranged for an extension, which is connected to the base of the old house using embedded reinforcement.

Of course, a more correct option is the common foundation that was laid at the stage of building a house. However, this happens quite rarely, and therefore it is worth ensuring maximum similarity of the foundations in terms of material and depth.

The most constructive and competent solution may be a separate foundation for the extension. The most common foundation in this regard today is a foundation on screw piles (Fig. 5, 6). After screwing into the ground, the piles are combined into a single grillage by welding several metal channels or wooden beams. This results in a separate and independent foundation that will not be connected in any way to the main house, since the existing foundation can continue to move downwards, which can lead to deformation of the structure.

In this case, the minimum possible distance is maintained between the two buildings, i.e. a technological gap that is filled with thermal insulation and waterproofing materials.

An extension to the house can be made using frame technology or from wooden beams (Fig. 5, 6).

Frame technology the most acceptable, since it is light in weight and consists of the construction of a frame made of wooden beams and filled with insulation. For example, these can be SIP panels, which in cross-section represent a three-layer “pie” of two load-bearing surfaces (usually OSB), between which foamed polystyrene foam is pressed, where the thickness of the insulation can be different, so you can select panels for any climatic region. In this case, there will be no need for cladding with additional materials, which will reduce the cost of construction.

It will be enough to paint the interior panels with varnish. It is also worth saying that a timber extension to a wooden house can be of two types: three walls and a fourth load-bearing one, which is already in the house, or three walls, which is the most reasonable in terms of material consumption. If you plan to live in winter, then you should use a material with a cross-section of at least 150 x 150 or 200 x 200 mm.

This type of timber is quite heavy, but it will also last longer. After the walls are erected, the remaining cracks must be sealed, otherwise it will be very cold in the extension. This can be done using modern insulation based on basalt wool or polyurethane foam.

For for sheathing an extension to a frame house, any materials are suitable. These can be boards, OSB (oriented strand board), siding, blockhouse, etc. The exterior finishing material depends on the financial capabilities of the owner.

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Time passes, and it turns out that the private house no longer satisfies the owners with its size and amenities. A decision is made to expand its area with an extension. We’ll tell you in this article how to do this efficiently and without extra costs.

Save money without harming quality – requirements for premises and materials

Poorly thought out design of an extension will eventually force something to be altered or completed, or added to the country house. In order to avoid getting into such a situation, we think through all the nuances, weigh the advantages and disadvantages of our idea. We start with choosing a location and size.

Each type of additional room has its own specific characteristics in connection with its use, requirements for insulation, waterproofing, and others. If a decision is made to build an additional living room in a country house, then this is tantamount to building a small house. It is necessary to reliably insulate and prevent the appearance of dampness. If you plan to stay in cold weather, you need to think about heating.

Another common type of extension is kitchens and bathrooms. The requirements for them are practically the same. First of all, we think about utilities and install them even before construction begins. It is much more convenient to lay sewer and water pipes before pouring the foundation than to dig underneath it later. The waterproofing of the floor covering requires increased attention. We are thinking about insulation, but if the kitchen is planned for summer, then you can save on this.

The house is being expanded by adding a veranda. The structure is light, serves for summer recreation, protects the entrance from wind, snow and rain. It is carried out in many variants: from the simplest in the form of a boardwalk, low walls with a roof on pillars, to complex with walls, doors, windows. No insulation is required, otherwise it will no longer be a veranda, but waterproofing the foundation is necessary.

The extension to the house must be in harmony with the main structure. If the house has external decoration, then it will not be difficult to repeat it in the attached room. All materials go well with wood, which looks great even without additional finishing. The best option would be a frame structure:

• it is built quickly, literally in a few months;
• does not require a capital foundation because it is lightweight;
• without special knowledge and skills, it can be built with your own hands;
• will cost less.

The foundation for the extension is made on the same level as the foundation of the house. When attaching a structure to a house, we do not do it tightly - over time it will shrink - but leave an expansion joint. In this regard, frame structures that do not shrink vertically compare favorably.

If the structure is attached to the front wall, the roof continues the main roof and is pitched. We choose the slope in such a way that the snow does not linger and the rain flows off. If this is an extension to a side wall, then the roof follows the configuration of the main one. The roofing material is the same as on the roof of the house, if different, it is important that they are combined.

Columnar base - fast, cheap, reliable

For the columnar foundation of the extension to the house, concrete, brick or a combination of both is used. It is made mainly for a living room or veranda. If used for a kitchen or bathroom, thermal insulation of the utility lines entering the house will be required. Since the protection concerns an average of half a meter of pipes, such expenses can be incurred, and it will still be cheaper than a strip foundation. The floor is made of boards; for concrete, you will need a lot of backfill material and a fence around the perimeter.

We start by marking the area, the installation locations of the pillars are one and a half meters from each other. A separate hole of 50x50 cm is dug under each pillar, with a depth greater than freezing of the soil. At the top we expand the pits a little: about 10 cm on each side. We fill the bottom with a 10 cm layer of sand, carefully compact it, then crushed stone or broken brick, which is also compacted.

We lay out the film for waterproofing and bring the ends to the surface. If we plan to build brick pillars, pour a little concrete mortar into each hole for the base and wait for it to set. When planning concrete pillars, we tie reinforcement at the top along the entire height and lower them into the pits. We ensure equal distance between the walls. We place pieces of brick under the bottom to raise the reinforcement by about 4 cm.

We make formwork for the base, inside which we run the film. We pour the concrete in layers, pierce each layer several times with a rod to release air bubbles. It is important not to rush, it is better to wait until it sets, then continue pouring. We carefully level the top of the column and wait about two weeks until the concrete hardens. All this time, water heavily and cover with burlap or film.

When the foundation reaches the required strength, the formwork is removed. We heat up the bitumen mastic, apply it to the pillars and immediately glue pieces of roofing felt for waterproofing. There is space left between the pillars, which it is advisable to fill in to insulate the floor. We use ordinary soil mixed with crushed stone or pieces of brick. Fill in layers of 10 cm, tamp. The technology for constructing a strip foundation is practically no different, but unlike a columnar foundation, it is solid.

Getting started - bottom frame and extension floor

So, we settled on the frame option as the fastest and cheapest. In order for wood to serve for a long time, you need to adhere to two rules: make reliable waterproofing and carry out antiseptic treatment. Of course, the wood must be well dried. For waterproofing, the most reliable means is bitumen mastic. It is possible to use several layers of roofing material, but it is short-lived.

Then we make the bottom trim. Usually 150x150 mm timber is used, but it is possible to use 150x50 mm boards. We lay them horizontally along the entire perimeter, aligned with the outer edges of the foundation. We do not connect the boards of the first row to each other. We lay the second row on top, overlapping the joints in the first.

In the boards laid in this way on the foundation, we make through holes for the studs and connect them. If it is strip, we drill and connect it on the ground, and then lay it down. To get the effect of a single beam, we knock it down with nails in a checkerboard pattern every 20 cm. The result is a binding of the required thickness, which also has additional advantages:

• costs much less than beams;
• It’s very easy to connect with each other, but with bars it’s more difficult.

We attach the bottom frame to the beds from the same 150x50 mm boards, installed on top of the edge along the outer edge. We fasten them together and with the beds with 90 mm nails. Next we install logs made of similar material installed on the edge. The distance between them is 60–80 cm, but it all depends on the size of the frame extension: the longer the logs, the narrower we install them. They are attached to the trim board with nails, 2 on each side.

Now let's start insulating the floor. The cheapest, although not very environmentally friendly option, is tile polystyrene foam with a density of at least 15 kg/m3. Its advantage is that it is the only insulation material that is not afraid of moisture. We nail 50x50 mm bars to the lower edges of the logs, which will hold the polystyrene foam. A thickness of 15 cm is required: we use sheets of 10 and 5 cm. We lay them so that the seams of the bottom and top rows overlap.

The base is ready. We lay the subfloor on top. To prevent it from warping over time, we lay it alternating the direction of the annual rings. We look at the cut: we place one board with an arc up, the other - down. We make the finishing floor from plywood, the joints are staggered. A rough base is not necessary if there are edged tongue-and-groove boards with a thickness of 30 mm or more or 15 mm plywood. We lay it directly along the joists.

Wall installation - two assembly technologies

There are two technologies for assembling frame buildings. The first is called frame-panel, when the entire assembly is carried out on the ground, then the finished structures are installed in place and fastened together. Sometimes the frame is immediately sheathed, which makes it even stronger. Another method involves gradual installation on site. Which one is more convenient - everyone decides for himself. A shield assembled on the ground cannot be lifted alone; assistants will be needed.

We begin the construction of the frame with the corner posts. For them and intermediate posts we use timber 150×150 mm or even 100×100 mm. The distance between the racks is determined by the width of the insulation, which we find out in advance. We position the pillars so that the gap between them is 3 cm narrower than the width of the insulation. This way we will save on waste-free use of material and improve the quality of insulation without leaving gaps.

Fastening can be carried out simply and reliably using metal corners installed on both sides of the racks and secured with stainless steel screws. Before finally fixing the stand, we carefully check its verticality, this is especially important for the corners. One incorrectly aligned beam will cause the entire extension to bend.

Temporary bevels, which are installed from the inside and serve until the outer skin is attached, help maintain the correct shape of the frame. If the sheathing is made of a rigid and durable material such as plywood, OSB, GVK, it is capable of independently strengthening the base, which will stand securely after removing the temporary slopes. When soft material is planned for the cladding: siding, lining, then permanent braces cannot be avoided. It is better to install them two at the bottom and at the top of each rack.

At the places where windows and doors are installed, we attach crossbars. We make double racks next to them: they experience increased loads and must be stronger. The final fastening of the frame is carried out by installing the upper trim. In order not to invent anything, it can be similar to the bottom one: a bed made of two boards fastened together and the actual harness made of the same boards installed on the edge. To it, in the same way as the floor joists were attached, we nail the floor beams from 150x50 boards on the edge.

We constantly check the geometry of the entire structure, as well as the correct installation of the racks and crossbars: the racks are strictly vertical, the crossbars are horizontal.

Shed roof - design and technology

The roof of a house with an extension consists of two parts, which should be harmoniously combined into one. If the extension is built on the side, the roof will be a continuation of the main one; all that remains is to repeat its design in order to lengthen it. When an attached building is located along its length, its roof is made of a pitched roof. The slope is ensured by the difference in height of the front and rear pillars. The height of the rear ones should ensure that the roof of the extension goes under the main canopy.

The roof is supported by rafters, which we lay on beams. They are made from thick boards, to ensure fixation, we make special grooves. We cut them out on the ground according to a template so that they are all the same. Then after installation in place there will be no need to align horizontally. We treat the grooves with mastic, install them and fasten them to the walls with brackets and metal corners on studs. If the length exceeds 4 m, we install additional vertical supports.

We lay the sheathing on top of the rafters. Depending on the roofing material, we make it continuous or in increments of 0.3–0.6 m. The need for continuous wooden flooring arises when using soft material; we make sparse material for all other types of roofing. We make fastening depending on the type of roof. We fasten corrugated sheets and metal tiles with special self-tapping screws having sealing washers, and ondulin with nails with a wide head. We provide wave overlap. Don't forget about the final design: wind strips not only protect the roof, but also give it a finished look.

Insulation is a mandatory operation for an extension

Mineral wool and polystyrene foam are mainly used to insulate buildings. Mineral wool resists fire and has low thermal conductivity. They are light in weight and have a consumer-friendly release form: rolls, mats. Another popular insulation material is polystyrene foam. Its advantages: it is inexpensive, not afraid of fungus, moisture, rotting. But there are two big drawbacks: rodents love it, and in case of fire it emits toxic gases.

We carry out insulation from the inside in the following sequence:

1. 1. We install the waterproofing, having previously cut strips of the required sizes. We fasten with staples using a construction stapler, so as to ensure overlap. We sheathe the frame completely, driving in staples every 10 cm.
2. 2. Place insulation between the studs. We ensure a tight fit to the wooden structures, close the seams between the individual elements of the insulating material, overlapping the next layer.
3. 3. We attach a vapor barrier, even if we use polystyrene foam. The fact is that it is necessary to protect not only the insulation, but also the wood. We perform fastening in the same way as waterproofing.
4. 4. We cover the walls from the inside. We use plasterboard over a perfectly flat frame or OSB if there are any unevenness. It is tougher and smoothes out imperfections.

All that remains is the interior and exterior decoration, which leaves room for the owner’s imagination. A frame extension is built quickly, cheaply, lasts for decades, and can be built with virtually no outside help.