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Instructions for building a house from rounded logs. Do-it-yourself log house. Requirements for the future home

The main mistakes in the construction of log buildings wooden houses.

Log houses have faithfully served people for thousands of years. Solid wood houses give their owners the incomparable pleasure of living in a comfortable microenvironment. Solid wood has a high heat capacity (2.4 times higher than ceramic bricks), which allows you to smooth out daily temperature fluctuations. Also, the porous structure of wood allows you to naturally regulate the humidity in the room through cycles of absorption and evaporation of moisture. The log house is relatively resistant to movements of the soil and foundation. The wooden surface often does not require any additional treatment other than sanding and coating with antiseptics to create beautiful interiors.

However, only properly built wooden houses will provide comfort to their owners. The construction of a log house requires high carpentry qualifications at the 6th category level. Without experience and qualifications it is almost impossible to cut down wooden house no mistakes. And mistakes during construction can negate all the advantages log house. Houses built with errors are easy to recognize: builders or owners have to additionally insulate them and sheathe them outside and inside in order to hide defects and eliminate through-blowing of locks in the corners and crown joints. One of modern options houses made of solid wood, practically devoid of the disadvantages of log houses, are houses made of laminated veneer lumber. Thanks to the features of this technology, blowing through seams and cracking of wood in such houses is practically impossible.

In this article we will briefly touch on the most common mistakes in the construction of log houses.

1. Errors in preparing a log house.

Mistakes when choosing materials for construction.

According to GOST 9463-88 “Round timber coniferous species» Pine, spruce, fir and larch round timber is suitable for building houses. Larch is the most expensive material, the hardest and most resistant to rotting. Spruce has a lower density, excessive knots and is prone to more cracking. The optimal tree for building a house is pine aged from 80 to 120 (140) years, grown in the northern regions (Arkhangelsk, Angarsk, Karelia) on dry sandy soil, at least 24 meters high. The best pine logs have a dark red or yellow-red core color, indicating high density wood More loose varieties have a pale yellow core. Winter-cut forest, contrary to folk legends, actually has a higher sapwood moisture content (25-50% higher than in summer), large quantity starch and, therefore, is more easily affected by fungi. You can identify round timber from winter felling using a qualitative starch test: a stroke is applied to the debarked wood with an iodine pencil. If the stroke turns blue, this means a tree cut down in winter.
For construction, timber with such defects as mushroom blue and colored sapwood stains (with a depth of no more than 1/20 - 1/10 of the end diameter), wormholes (no more than 5-10 pieces for 1 linear meter), side cracks from shrinkage no more than 1/20 -1/5 of the end diameter, trunk curvature no more than 1-2% (1-2 cm per 1 linear meter). Logs used for construction must have a slope (thinning of the log towards the top) of no more than 0.8 cm per 1 m of length.

Rot (sapwood, rotten, heartwood) and tobacco knots (decomposed brown or white knots that crumble under load) are not allowed in round timber.

Minimum diameter round timber for a residential building - 22-24 cm. The width of the grooves should be at least half the diameter of the log, and in the northern regions it can be increased even more. With a smaller groove size, the consumption of timber is reduced, but the thickness of the inter-crown seams becomes smaller, and the house becomes colder.
Cutting corners can be done without a residue “into the paw” or with a residue - “into the corner”. Cutting into a corner makes the connections more reliable and the frame more stable. In addition, the allowance of wood better protects the lock from the effects of atmospheric factors. Cutting “in the paw” is usually used for subsequent cladding of corners or the entire log house. For residential buildings, the device for connecting logs in the corners must have internal locking elements that prevent through blowing of the corner (connecting logs “into a bowl” with a pre-stop or “into a block” with a pre-stop). Due to its geometry (an inverted bowl), cutting “in the middle” allows for better moisture removal and faster drying of the joint. Cutting internal locking elements requires a highly qualified carpenter; such work takes more time and is more expensive. Otherwise, the corners of a residential building will be protected from blowing only by tow ( thermal insulation material). This is one of the main disadvantages of houses made of rounded logs, where log joints are made industrially without additional internal locking elements.

Moisture content of timber for construction. SP 64.13330.2011 " Wooden structures» allows the use of raw solid wood for the construction of houses with a humidity of up to 40% under the following conditions: the predicted shrinkage of the wood should not interfere with the structure and pliability of the joints, and the timber itself must be subjected to antiseptic treatment and conditions must be provided for it to dry out and be protected from moisture . It is optimal if the log house dries out, installed in place on the foundation and under the roof. Drying period from 6 months to 1 year. If the log house stood with the seller in piles (individual parts of the log house with 5 crowns each, convenient in height for processing) without a roof for 6-12 months, then with a high probability this means that the tree will be affected by rot. It is permissible to purchase log houses that have stood under the roof.

It is important to understand that the higher the humidity of the timber, the greater the shrinkage of the tree, and the wider the inter-crown cracks and cracks in corner joints will open (especially with cutting defects), the more the tree will crack.

Why don't they cut down houses from dry wood? Dry wood has greater density and hardness, and is much more difficult to process. The rounded log is subjected to chamber drying after processing upon request. However, kiln-dried wood can warp as it reaches equilibrium moisture content on a construction site. They use Finnish and Karelian dead pine of equal moisture content in construction, but this is already an exclusive product. In addition, a correctly assembled frame made of raw wood, when dried in the assembled state, “sits” in place, reducing the size of the through cracks and, accordingly, the coefficient of blowing through the walls. It is important to know that wood can be painted (not treated with antiseptics) only if its moisture content does not exceed 15%. Otherwise, the wood will crack severely when drying. Therefore, treatment of log houses is only permissible with vapor-permeable antiseptics. Treating a damp (damp) log house with a vapor-proof antiseptic will also lead to cracking of the wood as it dries.

For dowels (dowels), only dry (no more than 12%) straight-grained wood without knots should be used. Birch dowels must be antiseptic.

Bonding logs to metal element s (cuts of reinforcement, long nails) are not recommended, since moisture accumulates at the media interface, and metal elements become centers of biological destruction of wood. Typically, unscrupulous builders use reinforcement to fasten and “tension” crooked logs, which then leads to disruption of the normal shrinkage of the log house, the formation of cracks and bulging of individual logs. It is strictly forbidden to pierce the corner joints of logs with nails, as this will interfere with the movement of the tree during shrinkage and will contribute to the formation of cracks (after the wood shrinks, the nails will rise above the surfaces).

Types of timber processing for construction.
The most traditional for Russia is round timber. In Scandinavia they use a carriage (from the Norwegian “lafteverk” - log house) - hewn from two opposite sides logs on two edges, or semi-carriage - hewn on one edge with inside logs Price ashlar can be 35-50% higher than a log frame. When processing round timber, builders sometimes leave sections of the bast (underbark) unremoved. According to the standards, no more than 20% bast can remain on the round timber. However, it is better to remove the bast completely by sharpening (planing), since the bast contains many polysaccharides, which are an excellent feeding ground for microorganisms and insects that can damage the wood. Also, when trimming, young layers of sapwood, less resistant to damage by fungi and insects, are removed.

2. Errors in the assembly of the log house.

Waterproofing must be laid between the first casing and the foundation. Until now, for some reason, builders use for waterproofing a short-lived material based on cardboard - roofing felt, in which through holes and cracks form in 7-10 years. For waterproofing it is necessary to use modern bitumen-polymer materials with a service life of 25-50 years. Of course, a complete lack of waterproofing is unacceptable. The use of a backing board under the casing reduces heat loss through heat transfer from the log house to the foundation, and reduces the risk of biological destruction of the casing. According to the requirements of SP 64.13330.2011 “Wooden structures”, such wooden linings (pillows) should be made from antiseptic wood mainly hardwood(oak, aspen). If necessary, backing boards can be replaced with new ones. Replacing the frame crown is a much more labor-intensive procedure. The lower crowns of the house must be protected from moisture. The greatest damage is caused by splashes of precipitation reflected from the ground and snow piled against the wall. To protect the logs from splashes and snow, it is recommended to raise the foundation above the planning mark by at least 40-50 cm.

Additional protection factors for the log house include splash-proof canopies protruding above the base, long roof overhangs (75-120 cm) and the installation of roof gutters and pipes.

Orientation of logs when laying. Every tree has a natural curvature due to wind loads as the tree grows. When laying logs, they must be laid with the curvature upward so that the loads from the overlying structures compensate for the bending of the wood. If this principle is not followed, the logs will stick out to the sides. Normally, the deviation of the crowns of chopped walls from the horizontal per 1 m of length should not exceed 3 mm.

The size of the inter-crown gaps should not exceed 1 mm. With the Russian felling system it is quite difficult to fulfill this condition, since as the wood dries out, the cracks open up. The Norwegian cutting system with a wedging longitudinal groove and a sliding self-jamming lock has an advantage, in which, as the wood dries, the logs shrink relative to each other, reducing the size of the inter-crown cracks.

In Russia, they traditionally continue to insulate the roof gaps of log houses natural materials, such as flax, jute, felt, moss, etc., which are not elastic, are subject to biological destruction, and are a breeding ground for microorganisms and insects. All of these materials require repeated caulking. Meanwhile, in Scandinavia, elastic self-expanding polyethylene foam tape is used as an interventional sealant, the use of which eliminates the need for repeated caulking.

If possible, you should avoid joining logs in crowns along the length. Such connections weaken the structure of the log house, and the walls of the log house may become deformed. The logs used in the structure should be as solid as possible. And you definitely shouldn’t make connections at the intersections of walls, where load concentrations occur.

Shrinkage and swelling of wood along the grain is more pronounced than across the grain. Therefore everything vertical racks and the columns must be equipped with jacking platforms and shrinkage compensators, which are tightened to the required amount of shrinkage, which can last up to 6-8 years or more. Perhaps a more aesthetically pleasing option is to install shrinkage expansion joints at the bottom of columns, where they are less noticeable.

It is not recommended to cut openings for windows and doors in the log house until the end of the first active drying period of the wood (6-12 months). During this same period, you should not hem the floor, ceiling or sheathe the walls, as this will interfere with normal ventilation and drying of the wood.

Particular attention should be paid to the ventilation of the underground space when installing wooden floors. Minimum area The cross-section of one vent must be at least 0.05 m2, and the total area of ​​the vents must be at least 1/400 of the underground area. It should be noted that this ceiling design is already archaic. In the world, they mainly use floors on the ground, which allow you to use geoheat, avoid problems with humidity in the underground space and the flow of radioactive soil gases into the house.

3. Errors in finishing a log house.

When installing window and doorways We should remember that the minimum distance between openings is 90 cm. The walls must be reinforced with dowels. For installation in log houses, it is better to use windows and doors with frames at least 10 cm wide, which does not allow window and door block deform during secondary caulking of the house.

The fastening of frame bars for door and window frames should be sliding - without the use of nails, as shrinkage wooden house can last quite a long time. Above the windows and doors, compensation gaps are left under the heaving of the top log for shrinkage of 5-8% of the opening height.

It is better to use self-expanding elastic sealing tapes to seal window and door frames. Regular polyurethane foam when expanding, it can deform window frames, and when wood shrinks, it can form cracks. If it is used, then after hardening it should be covered outside from exposure to the sun and moisture with waterproofing, vapor-permeable, self-adhesive butyl rubber tape. The inside of the foam should be covered with vapor barrier tape. Unprotected foam deteriorates quickly, as in the house in the photo below.

Finishing the inter-crown seams of the assembled log house after the end of the first stage of intensive drying (12-24 months) with glazing beads or rope is only decorative, contributing to the waste of money and time, but not protecting the walls from blowing. Modern elastic and vapor-permeable inter-crown sealants (for example, from the domestic manufacturer SAZI) make it possible to protect inter-crown cracks from through blowing and create an aesthetically pleasing appearance walls

Application of inter-crown sealant.

External insulation of a wooden house. Most often, external insulation has to be resorted to when construction defects are discovered, such as through blowing through the walls. The main and most critical mistake is the external insulation of a wooden house with vapor-tight insulation (expanded polystyrene, polyethylene foam). In this case, the tree is deprived of the opportunity to dry out and is moistened, which increases its thermal conductivity and accelerates biological destruction. Clause 8.8 of SP 23-101-2004 “Design of Thermal Protection of Buildings” requires that layers of multilayer walls be positioned in such a way that the vapor permeability of materials from the inside to the outside of a heated house increases rather than decreases.

Aesthetics of a wooden house. Often lovers of wooden houses, where all interior elements, such as walls, floors, ceilings, beams, railings, furniture are made of wood, find that, perhaps, they have gone a little overboard with the quantity wooden surfaces, which create a feeling of life in " wooden box" Changing furniture and painting walls comes to the rescue. However, it is wiser to plan contrasting surfaces in the house at the design stage. These can be floors, ceilings, kitchen countertops, steel elements of stairs and fences, decorative walls from natural or artificial stone.

It’s the 21st century, but people, tired of the bustle and environmental problems of big cities, are increasingly thinking about how to build a wooden house with their own hands and move to the bosom of nature.

What is needed for this, where to start, what knowledge you need to have - this is just a small part of the huge list of questions that a person faces. To make it easier to decide on the type of house, we will provide some data.

Types of wooden houses: wooden from timber, from profiled timber, from hewn logs, rounded logs, from profiled laminated timber, frame houses.

If you want to know how to build a wooden house from a log, you should consider this construction more carefully.

Log house

• Such a building is built from solid logs, cleared of bark with an ax, and tree species such as cedar and pine are used.
• Thanks to handmade, resin remains on the logs, protecting the building from bad weather and other external negative factors.
• Such houses look beautiful, are pleasant and safe to live in.

Despite all these advantages, there are also disadvantages.

• The building takes a very long time to dry out (from 2 to 5 years), and it takes several years for it to shrink.
• Materials and finishing work are quite expensive.

If you have chosen another option, but do not know how to build a wooden house from timber, it is necessary in this case to consider all the pros and cons.

House made of timber

• Ordinary rectangular beam, unlike the profiled one, it has joints (grooves and tenons), it is different affordable price. From the thin they build temporary and summer buildings, houses designed for permanent residence, made from thick timber 200 X 200 mm.
• Advantages: ease of construction, naturalness.

Unfortunately, there are many more disadvantages - these are cracks and crevices when drying, additional thermal insulation work, complex finishing, drying of the material takes up to a year.

In order to have a complete picture, you should learn how to build a wooden frame house with your own hands.

• In this case, a frame is constructed from laminated veneer lumber, which is then insulated.
• The advantage of this type of building is quick assembly ready-made parts and reduced price.
• Disadvantages include the use of a truck crane and difficulties in storing parts if the area is small.

Are you still thinking about how to build a wooden house with your own hands - let's go through all the necessary steps.

If you have no idea how to do this, it is best to start with the simplest option.

DIY log house

The first thing to remember is to choose larch, cedar or pine for your construction.

Another important issue is the foundation. Usually, in cases self-construction used columnar foundation, but the screw version is also used.

In order to have a more complete idea of ​​how to make a log house, photos on some sites will certainly help with this.

Operating procedure

1. We prepare the beams (15 X15) and treat them with a special antiseptic.
2. We install the crown, lay the half-timber beam, and fasten it with wooden dowels. To do this, we make holes in the beams in advance.
3. After laying the crown, the timber is also laid in the floor with a crown. A compactor is placed on the beams placed at the end, then a beam and again a compactor.
4. We must not forget that the floor board (40 mm) also depends on the pitch of the beams (0.7 m).
5. Another important point- It is best to use jute fabric as a sealant.
6. The first floor is being built to a height of about 3 meters.
7. If you don’t do the sheathing, you need to think about drainage using chamfers in a timely manner.

The easiest way to build

If you are still tormented by the question of how to build a log house, you can use ready-made projects wooden buildings. This situation has its merits.

• As a rule, assembly is very fast.
• You will invest the minimum Money in construction, doing only checking the markings of the beams.
• Since logs are manufactured in a factory standard sizes, assembly is carried out efficiently and without overlays.

Just how to build a wooden house, photos and instructions on this issue can be found on many thematic sites.

You can also make your child’s dream come true, or maybe your long-standing childhood wish, and set up a treehouse.

Magic house

For such construction you will need a tree with a thick trunk and powerful roots, optimally oak.

The building should not be located high for safety reasons - one and a half meters, no more. For work you will need the most simple tools and bolts.

Are you intrigued? If you want to know how to build a tree house, photos of such houses will give a boost to your imagination and will certainly inspire you to build.

How to build a wooden log house correctly

Logs have been used as a building material for a very long time, and have not lost their popularity to this day. In addition to being environmentally friendly, log houses are attractive due to their appearance and relatively low cost. In this article we will analyze step by step how to build a log house yourself.

Today, many companies are engaged in the construction of turnkey wooden houses. They are also engaged in the procurement and production of logs. The price of a turnkey house depends not only on the size of the house, but also on the diameter of the logs used and the method of their production.

Building a house from a log with your own hands will be much cheaper than ordering turnkey construction. The cost of building materials is comparable to the cost of work. That is, the price finished house, ordered from a turnkey company, is twice the cost of building materials.

Types of logs

Logs are made from coniferous wood, mainly spruce, pine or larch.

According to the method of production (harvesting), a log can be:

- debarked

- scraped

- planed

- rounded

Barked logs are one of the commonly used materials for building houses. Minor processing helps the tree retain all its protective properties, which significantly increases its service life. In terms of price, houses made from debarked logs are not expensive, but they require additional finishing.

From a debarked log, by removing the underbark (bast) by scraping and grinding, a very durable scraped log is obtained. During the processing process, the logs are adjusted to each other, all irregularities, knots and other defects are removed. The price of a house made from such logs will be higher than from debarked logs, since additional processing requires quite a lot of time. A log house made from scraped logs does not require additional finishing works, but on the contrary, due to the uniqueness of each log it looks very dignified.

The name itself – “planed log” – speaks about the technology for its production. Using an electric planer, only a small amount of wood can be removed from logs. top part, and all irregularities are eliminated. Thus, fairly even logs are obtained. Just as in the case of scraped logs, planed logs are adjusted to each other. Houses made from planed logs are very warm, durable and do not require additional finishing work. The price of such turnkey houses is significantly higher than that of the options listed above.

A rounded log is obtained by processing the log on a rounding machine. Due to this, perfectly even logs are obtained along the entire length, which do not require adjustment. As a result of processing, they are removed from the tree protective layer, which can subsequently lead to cracking of the log and rapid deterioration of the log house (rotting). Houses made from such logs are assembled quite quickly and look beautiful without additional finishing. The price of houses made of rounded logs on a turnkey basis is not high, but it is also quite difficult to obtain a high-quality log house from such material.

Project selection

After determining the material from which the house will be built, you can begin to select its design. Not large sizes You can design a house yourself or find a free project on the Internet. But with the two-story project big house It's not worth experimenting. It is better to purchase it from the appropriate organization, which will most likely help with obtaining a permit for its construction.

At independent design future home, it is necessary to take into account the maximum possible length of the logs, which is 6 meters. The height of the future house is calculated based on the diameter of the logs, which is different for everyone, with the exception of the use of galvanized logs.

Foundation for a log house

Foundation for a house from solid log must withstand heavy loads. The most suitable is a strip shallow foundation. The price of this type of turnkey foundation in construction companies is quite high, therefore, it is also better to complete this stage of construction yourself.

Before building a foundation for a log house, it is necessary to mark the site. To do this, pegs are driven into the corners of the future house, and a string is stretched between them, indicating its contours. Next, a trench is dug with a depth of 60-70 cm and a width equal to the width of the foundation, and it depends on the diameter chosen for the construction of the log. It is desirable that the foundation protrudes beyond the wall from the outside by 5 cm, and from the inside by 10 cm. An internal protrusion is necessary for a more stable and high-quality fit of the floor joists.

A layer of sand (sand cushion) is poured onto the bottom of the trench, which is compacted well.

The next stage is the assembly and installation of formwork. It is made from boards or plywood by assembling panels. The shields are installed on top of the trench opposite each other and are well fastened together.

Reinforcement is placed inside the formwork, which is tied together into one single frame. For the foundation of a log house, reinforcement of at least 12 diameters is used, in several rows.

After installing the formwork and reinforcing frame, concrete can be poured. When purchasing concrete from a manufacturer, you must order concrete grade M250. At self-filling the proportions are as follows: 1 cement (400): 3 sand: 4.5-5 crushed stone.

Important! It is necessary to provide holes in the foundation for ventilation of the subfloor. The height of the foundation from the ground should be less than 50 cm.

Wall construction technology

Before laying the first crown of the log house, it is necessary to waterproof the foundation by laying on it waterproofing material(roofing felt, hydrostekloizol).

For the first crown, choose the largest log in diameter and the most resinous one.

You can also use larch logs, but its price is quite high. To give greater stability to the log, part of it is removed, making a flat area. Treated with an antiseptic solution and laid on the foundation.

For a good fit to each other, a longitudinal groove is selected in the logs. When ordering finished log house Made from rounded logs, this groove is already made in production. In all other cases, the groove is made manually.

Video. How to make a longitudinal groove manually:

The logs are laid with the groove down on top of each other. For a tight and warm connection, moss or tow is laid between the logs. The logs are connected to each other using wooden dowels, which are inserted vertically into pre-drilled holes.

The corner connection can have several options: with or without a remainder.

When connecting logs with the remainder, there will be an overconsumption of material, since part of the log protrudes beyond the walls of the house. This method will increase the cost of construction.

The corner connection of the logs should be warm. It can be obtained by connecting into a paw (when connecting without a residue) and by connecting into a bowl (when connecting with a remainder).

If the diameter of the logs is large enough, then, most likely, to build a house from a log you will have to resort to the help of equipment: a crane or a manipulator.

It is easier to build a house from rounded logs than from regular logs. The log is smooth, all the necessary grooves and corner connections have already been made in production, all that remains is to assemble the construction kit.

Roof construction technology

After assembling the box at home, it must be protected from exposure to precipitation. To do this, you must immediately build a roof over it.

To do this, you will need 150*50 mm boards from which to construct rafter system. A roof slope of 30 degrees is optimal. The rafters are installed at a distance of 60-100 mm from each other and attached at the bottom to the wall using long nails or metal corners, and in the upper part to the ridge beam. The rafters are laid on top roofing waterproofing, a counter batten is nailed to provide a ventilated gap, and a wooden sheathing is installed.

Placed on the sheathing roofing material. In the case of flexible bitumen shingles A solid base is made of plywood. Price soft roof higher than metal, but in certain cases(complex hip roofs) its use will be preferable and expedient.

A log house with a roof installed will have a beautiful finished look.

Important nuances

After erecting the frame of the house and the roof, the log house must be left for at least one year. After it shrinks, you can begin finishing (jambing) window and door openings.

As described above, houses made of rounded or planed logs do not require additional finishing, but the wood must be protected from moisture and insects. To do this, wooden houses should be periodically treated with special solutions and paints. The quality of wood processing will determine how long a log house will last.

To reduce heat loss from a log house, it must be well caulked.

To build a turnkey log house with your own hands, you need to purchase a suitable design, high-quality and affordable material and follow the technology at all stages of construction.

Having chosen or drawn a specific project, and calculated how much building material is needed and how much money is needed to build this specific house, you will understand how much the price of the offered finished houses in construction companies from the costs of building a house with your own hands.

Video. Construction of a house from a log.

04/19/2016 by
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September 1, 2017
Specialization: facade finishing, interior decoration, construction of cottages, garages. Experience of an amateur gardener and gardener. We also have experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and many other things that I don’t have time for :)

Construction technology

The process of building a log house can be divided into five main stages:

Stage 1: project preparation

Designing a log house, in fact, does not contain any nuances. At this stage, as with the construction of any other house, you need to clearly imagine what the building will be like and then draw it on paper.

If you can’t decide on a layout, take the ready-made house designs on our portal as a basis.

When the dimensions and layout of the future house are known, you need to decide on the type of roof. I can personally recommend building mansard roof. This will allow you to expand the usable area of ​​your house by at least one and a half times, with virtually no increase in construction costs.

When the project is ready, count the amount of materials and draw up a diagram.

Step 2: Which log to use

Before purchasing materials, beginners are usually tormented by the question - which log is better to build a house from, rounded or chopped? The rounded log has an exact shape and diameter; in addition, there is a groove in the lower part, which simplifies the laying of logs and prevents the formation of gaps between the crowns.

A chopped or debarked log has a bottom layer of bark. Thanks to the resin that coats it, it is more resistant to moisture and rot. But on the other hand, the shape of such a log is less even, which somewhat complicates construction. So does it make sense to build a house from chopped logs?

It's up to you to decide, of course. The only thing I note is that currently there are all kinds of protective impregnations that make any wood moisture-resistant and resistant to negative biological influences.

Keep in mind that to build walls, in addition to logs, you will need other materials:

• Pins for connecting the crowns of the house to each other;
• Inter-crown thermal insulation material.

Stage 3: building the foundation

For construction strip foundation Usually about a third of the total budget allocated for the construction of a house is spent. In addition, a strip foundation takes at least a month of time, or even more. Since wooden housing is light in weight, in most cases it is more advisable to build a columnar foundation.

Its principle is to erect block or brick columns on a sand-crushed stone bed. The distance between the posts, which are installed in rows, is one and a half to two meters. From above, all the columns are connected by a grillage (beams).

For unstable soils and uneven areas, it is better to use a pile-screw foundation. The principle of its design is even simpler - metal drill piles are screwed into the ground, which are connected on top by beams.

The price of these foundations is an order of magnitude less than a strip foundation. However, they have one significant drawback- do not allow you to make a basement or cellar under the house. Therefore, to build an underground room, you will still have to make a strip foundation.

No matter what kind of foundation you build, be sure to produce it horizontal waterproofing to protect walls from moisture.

Stage 4: building walls

After preparing the foundation, we proceed to the main stage - the construction of the log walls. The instructions look like this:

Illustrations	Description of actions
	Laying the first crown: Prepare a log along the length of the future building; Cut the log lengthwise into two equal parts; Place the two halves on the foundation on two opposite sides; Make sure that the halves are laid strictly parallel to each other, and secure them to the foundation with studs or anchors; Then prepare two whole logs, make bowls (grooves) in them for the longitudinal halves of the logs and lay them across the transverse halves; Secure the logs to the foundation with anchors; The first row of internal partition logs can be laid immediately; Also at this stage the floor beams are cut into place.
	Laying subsequent crowns: Now you need to lay the logs into longitudinal halves with your own hands, cutting out bowls for cross logs. Thus, alternating the laying of transverse and longitudinal logs, crown after crown is erected, and the walls are raised to the required height. The only thing is, do not forget to lay inter-crown insulation between each crown; After laying the third transverse row, drill holes in the logs along the diameter of the dowels with a depth to the middle of the first crown. Make the hole spacing about one and a half meters. Then insert dowels into the holes. After laying the fifth crown, install dowels in the longitudinal logs in a checkerboard pattern, as shown in the diagram. Thus, install dowels in transverse and longitudinal logs through a row. The dowels should fit into the holes freely enough so that they do not get “bitten” when the house shrinks.
	Cutting openings: Mark the location of all openings; To the left and right of the openings, temporarily fasten the crowns with boards so that they do not fall apart; Cut out the openings chain saw as shown in the photo; Secure the logs in the openings with boxes and remove the temporary boards.

At this point, the construction of the walls is completed.

Stage 5: erecting the roof

Now you need to lay the floors and install the roof. Work should begin with the gables, which are built from logs in a “pyramid” manner according to the same principle as the walls. To connect them and give rigidity to the structure, several purlins should be used.

Further work is carried out as standard, i.e. as with the construction of any other houses.

Conclusion

We figured out the main points of construction timber house, otherwise you shouldn’t have any problems. The only thing I recommend is to additionally watch the video in this article. If you haven’t found the answer to any of your questions, leave it in the comments and I will be happy to answer you.

September 1, 2017

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For many, owning a home is a dream that can be realized in our time. However, even in order to build a house from a log, you must obtain permission. The procedure for obtaining a building permit is defined in the Town Planning Code of the Russian Federation.

Today, building a house from a log with your own hands is a completely feasible task; the main thing is to know the procedure for its construction.

In Rus', houses were traditionally built from logs or bricks, but with the advent of modern building materials, log houses began to be used less frequently as a method of building homes. Currently, the construction of houses from wooden beam or made from logs is becoming in demand again, and there are reasons for this.

Looking at an already built log house, it may seem that it is quite simple to make the same one with your own hands. This is a misconception, and if you decide to build a log house with your own hands, you must prepare thoroughly; the step-by-step instructions below will help you with this.

Log as a building material and a tool for its processing

Image 1. The scriber, thanks to two bubble levels, will help make more accurate measurements compared to the line.

For private housing construction, wood can be considered ideal building material. With the relatively light weight of wood, it can be used to build a durable low-rise building. Therefore, if you wish, you can build both a house and a bathhouse from a log with your own hands. To build a wooden house, you will need the following tools:

• axe;
• hand saw;
• electric drill;
• electric saw or chainsaw;
• the “dash” marking tool (scriber), shown in image 1.

A log processed by hand by removing branches and bark is called wild, while a log processed by special machines– rounded.

Building a house from hand-processed logs is much more difficult than from rounded logs. After processing in production, the material is almost ready for the manufacture of a log house.

The main problem when cutting a log house is the binding of logs in its corners. The logs can be connected so that they do not protrude beyond the wall. It's economical profitable technology fastenings, since the entire length of the log is usefully used. Such connection options are shown in Image 2.

Image 2. Options for connecting logs.

The connection, which is called “with the remainder,” gives the house originality, since in our time such a structure looks unusual. In this option, the ends of the logs protrude beyond the walls, which increases material consumption.

There are many options for corner joining of a log frame “with the rest”, but the most common are three: a simple bowl, a ridge and a fat tail. These connection options are shown in Image 3.

Comparing options corner connections, it is easy to see that connections “with the remainder” are easier to do manually, and a connection such as a simple bowl is made in production at .

Image 3. Options for corner joining of a log frame “with the remainder”.

If you need to increase the length of the log, then the simple method shown in image 4 is.

Along the crown of the logs, they are additionally fastened with dowels. A dowel is a metal or wooden rod. It is driven through the upper crown into the lower one so that there is a gap between the bottom of the hole in the lower crown and the end of the dowel to compensate for wood shrinkage. It is advisable to use dowels made of wood of the same species as the main log. To drill holes for the dowel, you will need an electric drill and a drill of the appropriate diameter.

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Features of wooden buildings

Based on the centuries-old practice of building wooden houses, wood with natural moisture is used for their construction. To prevent splashes from rain and water from melting snow in the spring from falling on lower crown house, its foundation must rise above ground level by at least 50 cm. To protect the walls from rain, the overhang of the roof of a wooden structure must be at least 60 cm, it is better if it is 90 cm. However, there is no guarantee that such a structure can protect walls from heavy rain.

Image 4. A method for increasing the length of a log.

Before deciding how to build a house, you need to keep in mind that in order to maintain a log house in proper condition, you will first need to thoroughly treat the wood with insecticides, and during operation, periodically inspect the log house for the presence of pests and treat it with antiseptics.

If there is no basement in the house, the frame can be installed on a strip monolithic foundation, without deepening it below the soil freezing level. You can use either a columnar or screw foundation with a grillage. An example of a strip foundation is shown in image 5, and an example is shown in image 6 screw foundation, where the lower crown of logs is used as a grillage.

On energy saving wooden buildings more efficient than brick ones, since they release what they accumulated during the day more slowly at night solar heat, however, this does not eliminate the need for their insulation. Modern requirements to save energy, they have become much stiffer, and for their implementation the thickness wooden wall should be at least 53 cm. This means that in order to comply with energy saving requirements, insulation is indispensable.

Images 5, 6. Examples of foundations.

In addition, some requirements that promote energy saving should not be neglected. Thus, it is advisable to locate living quarters on the south side, with the maximum possible number of windows on the same side. You should not experiment with the shape of the structure. There should be as few protrusions as possible, as well as extra balconies.

To conserve heat, the garage and boiler room should be located on the north side of the building. On the same side, it is advisable to provide a window with which, in the summer heat, you can create natural ventilation, helping to cool the indoor air.

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About preparation for building a house

Image 7. An example of a wooden house project.

Before you start construction, you need to be well prepared. It is advisable to use the services of a specialist knowledgeable construction of buildings made of wood and in particular from logs. He will create a project taking into account the features construction site and the wishes of the future owner. It is easier to build a house from rounded logs.

In this case, you can use ready-made projects, making minor changes to them, which will allow you to completely prepare a set of logs in production conditions. An example of such a project is shown in Image 7.

Rounded logs have significantly less shrinkage and are treated with high-quality antiseptics. It is very important that the longitudinal groove in them be ideally selected.

If you prepare the groove yourself, you will need a scriber. Marking and manufacturing process longitudinal groove using an ax or chainsaw is shown in image 8.

Images 8, 9. Cutting out a longitudinal groove and an option for laying logs.

It is necessary to prepare a site for storing the material. Image 9 shows an option for laying logs.

When purchasing material, you need to pay attention to its color. It should be yellow or dark yellow. There should be as few knots as possible, and resin pockets absent. Cracks should not exceed a third of the cut. The logs must be absolutely even along their entire length and not helical. When examining the ends of the logs, you need to make sure that the core occupies more than ¾ of the entire cut area and that the cut is even and the wood is dense.

It is advisable to build a wooden house in winter in those areas where the winter is real, frosty and without sudden thaws, therefore, the humidity is minimal. However, the foundation must be built in the summer.

The foundation for a wooden house has its own characteristics that must be taken into account. The height of the base must be at least 50 cm. Vents must be provided in the foundation to ensure ventilation of the underground, which will prevent the formation of mold.