Light rules in the apartment. Design of lighting in an apartment, independent development of a lighting scenario. Basic rules and regulations. Lighting design for individual rooms: simple and complex
Insufficient lighting negatively affects the human body. If there is not enough light, then a person feels constant drowsiness, vision deteriorates, and psychological state is disturbed.
High-quality lighting in the apartment will help avoid such problems. To do this, you need to select suitable lamps, lighting equipment and place it correctly.
To properly organize lighting, you need to take into account the power of the lamps, their color temperature, the number of lamps, the size of the room, etc.
There are many types of fixtures that can be successfully used for lighting.
How to properly organize lighting
First, you need to know that lighting in an apartment can be background or local. In the first case, ceiling chandeliers are used, which evenly illuminate the room without dividing it into separate zones. In the second case, devices are used that emit directional light (spotlights, sconces, table lamps). They divide the room into separate functional areas (working, cooking, reading areas), and highlight certain objects or interior features.
To choose the right lamps and fixtures, you need to draw up a lighting plan, taking into account the layout of the rooms, shape, ceiling height, arrangement of furniture, etc. The types and installation locations of fixtures should be noted on the diagram. An approximate plan for the distribution of devices is shown in the photo above.
Norms of power and number of lamps in a room
Not all people think about how to properly organize lighting at home, so they often make mistakes, then the light turns out to be too bright/dim or there are dark areas. To avoid this, you need to know the lighting standards:
Attention! In the bathroom, it is permissible to increase the illumination to 100 Lux to make it comfortable to apply makeup or shave.
Lamps always indicate the luminous flux, which is measured in Lumens. To calculate their number, knowing the appropriate degree of illumination for a particular room, use this formula: 1 Lx = 1 Lm/1 m². First, determine the Lx rate, then convert the value to Lm, after which you can select suitable lamps.
Example calculation for a bedroom with an area of 20 m²: first multiply 150 (lighting rate) by 20 (area), you will get 3000 Lux. Based on this, the total luminous flux of the lamps should be equal to 3000 Lm. If you opted for LEDs, then you will need 3 devices of 12 W each, which corresponds to about 360 Lm.
The following table will help determine the number of lamps according to their power:
| Filament lamp, power (W) | Luminescent, power (W) | LED lamp, power (W) | Luminous Power (Lm) |
| 20 | From 5 to 7 | 2 – 3 | Up to 250 |
| 40 | From 10 to 13 | 4 – 5 | Up to 400 |
| 60 | 15 — 16 | 8 – 10 | Up to 700 |
| 75 | 18 – 20 | 10 – 12 | Up to 900 |
| 100 | 25 – 30 | 12 – 15 | Up to 1200 |
| 150 | 40 – 50 | 18 – 20 | Before 1800 |
| 200 | 60 – 80 | 25 – 30 | Up to 2500 |
The correct lighting can be determined using a lux meter.
Some experts recommend using lamps with a total power of up to 60 kW for every 5 m². Based on this, in one-room apartment(30 - 40 m²) you need to install up to 8 devices of different types, in a two-room apartment - 9 pieces, in a three-room apartment - 11 pieces, in a four-room apartment - 13 pieces.
How to check the quality of light
It is important to choose the right lamp so that it emits comfortable light. This can be found out using a low-power device that runs on solar battery, for example, a calculator. The procedure goes as follows:
- “Calibrate” the device with a filament lamp (40-60 W). Be sure to measure the distance at which the battery fired.
- Bring it close to a fluorescent light source (13-24 W), if the battery activation distance has decreased to 2.5 times, then the light is comfortable. If you are testing a lamp at 9 - 11 W, then this distance will decrease by another 1.5 times.
For example, if the battery provided operating current at a distance of 60 cm from a lamp with an incandescent filament or 15 cm from an 11 W housekeeper, then make the following calculations: 60: 15 = 4, and 2.5 x 1.5 = 3.75. This light is only suitable for local illumination.
Comfortable color temperature
The lighting of the apartment should be pleasant to perceive, so you should take into account the color temperature, which is measured in K (kelvins).
This is interesting! Comfortable artificial lighting should resemble sunlight as much as possible.
Color temperature of lamps used in apartments:
- From 3500 to 5500 K is bright light white shade that does not distort colors. Can be used in any room.
- More than 5500 K – cold radiation, which tunes in active work. Suitable for office or kitchen.
- From 2700 to 3500 K - a warm glow of a yellowish tint. This lighting is ideal for the bedroom and living room.
As you can see, the requirements for the light temperature of lighting elements differ for different rooms.
“Modern lighting is a means of creating coziness and a comfortable psychological environment. With its help, you can organize the desired background for work and leisure and literally work wonders - visually change the proportions of the room and create creative spaces. Therefore, choosing lighting solutions for your home is not just a trip to the store for a new light bulb or lamp, but an exciting process of creating a style for your own home,” says Polina Gubonina, leading lighting designer at Philips Lighting Solutions. Philips shared with us 10 tips for proper lighting at home:
1. One of the latest bright trends in residential lighting design is the use of LEDs. They provide unlimited scope for experimenting with the interior and have a number of important advantages over traditional lighting sources. For example, LED solutions can save up to 85% energy, differ long term service life - up to 25 years, and also provide lighting that is as close to natural as possible.
2. One of the most important lighting parameters that affects the physical and psychological state of a person is the color temperature of the lamps. This characteristic indicates what kind of light the lamp shines - “cold” or “warm”. Color temperature affects the perception of the colors of objects and human biorhythms.
So, cold white light promotes concentration, and warm white light promotes relaxation, so “cold” light lamps will ideal solution for work areas (office or kitchen), and “warm” lighting is suitable for the living room or bedroom. Modern LEDs provide extensive options for choosing the color of the lamps, and the most advanced solutions can change the color temperature depending on the individual preferences of the user.
3. To truly appreciate the benefits of LEDs, you should choose international brands that have proven themselves in the market and can vouch for the stated characteristics of the product. With the growing popularity of LEDs, more and more products from unscrupulous manufacturers appear on the market, which often do not meet quality standards. Buying such a product can not only be a waste of money, but also have a negative impact on eye health and overall well-being.
4. Proper distribution light can hide the shortcomings of rooms and emphasize their advantages. Correctly chosen lighting solutions allow you to visually increase the proportions of the room, divide the space into zones and place the necessary accents in the interior. And with the help of LED solutions, this process becomes easy and fun.
5. IN small rooms with low ceilings, you can visually increase the space by organizing light from “nowhere” - installing floor lamps, small pendant lamps or sconces.
6. To visually expand the room, you need to place a cornice with lamps aimed at the wall along the perimeter of the ceiling. This technique is especially effective if the walls are light and reflect light well. Niches with uniform illumination or built-in lamps can achieve similar goals.
7. In the room with small space It is worth using small lamps. Illumination of the cornice, lighting under the cabinet or under the bed, as well as sconces on the wall will help to visually increase the space in the room. The space also expands with diffused light, the source of which can be chandeliers or pendants. The resulting effect can be enhanced by mirrors on the wall on both sides of the bed.
8. Would you like to create individual interior designs with light every day? Then color-changing LED lights like Philips LivingColors can help. They allow you to paint a room in any of sixteen million shades. With Philips LivingColors, you can change the color of the lighting depending on your mood: orange and yellow will help you get into a positive mood, green will help you relax, blue will give you inner energy, and red will create a romantic mood. In turn, the automatic color change mode will allow you to distract yourself and relax while watching the play of shades.
9. The ideal place to use the Philips LivingColors lamp is the living room - the heart of the home, a place for communication, special receptions, meeting with friends or relaxing with the whole family.
10. Experiment with light! This exciting process will allow you to become a real designer of your own home.
Comfortable living in a home is only possible with well-designed lighting and correctly calculated illumination for each specific room. Moreover, it is better to engage in electrical design before starting repair work, since this will significantly save you money and time. First you need to think through the lighting scenario for the entire apartment (house) and for each room separately.
Light scenario - this is a plan for the location of all lighting fixtures, combining them into groups, a plan for the location of switches and switches for all groups of lamps, taking into account the opening of doors and the placement of furniture. Lamps with switches (several switches for one group of lamps in different rooms) and lamps with power regulators require a separate designation on the plan, since their installation requires additional manipulations from the electrician.
To achieve a good result when independently designing lighting in an apartment, you need to take into account several important factors.
- Proper lighting should not create sharp transitions from shadow to light, bright surfaces or glare - all this is harmful to vision and tiring for the psyche.
- Adjust the light intensity based on the trim color because different colors reflect light differently. Thus, dark and matte surfaces of a large area absorb light, while light and glossy surfaces reflect, increasing illumination.
- Observe the standard values for optimal illumination for various types of premises. Details
- Take into account the functionality of lighting and the characteristics of human activity carried out in various rooms.
Features of lighting design in the hallway
The hallway, as a rule, is characterized by small size and insufficient or complete absence of natural light. It is desirable that wall and ceiling lamps have closed form so that the light bulb remains invisible from anywhere in the room or has a matte finish.
It is better to choose opaque lampshades for sconces, since the lamps can dazzle at close range. These rules apply to any small premises.
Separately in the hallway it is worth highlighting the hanger and the area near the mirror. If the room is square or close to square, then a central ceiling lamp with several shades will be sufficient; the ability to direct the shade in the desired direction will allow you to illuminate the desired area of the hallway.
Lighting in the hallway and corridor
To illuminate an elongated room, it is better to use several sconces located at different ends or several lamps evenly distributed along the ceiling. For corridors and hallways, 50-100 lux is usually sufficient.
Living room lighting design
The living room is a room that performs several functions: it welcomes guests, watches TV, communicates, and reads. Main secret good lighting– each function has its own lamp. This means that in the living room you need to create several islands of light on different levels, it’s good if their brightness can be adjusted, the main thing is that the lamps are made in the same style and correspond to the general idea of interior decoration.
Near sofas and armchairs, it makes sense to place floor lamps or sconces that create diffused light. Architectural and decorative elements of the interior - columns, arches, open brickwork- will look impressive if they are illuminated with spot floor or ceiling lamps.
Multi-level ceilings with lighting will allow you to highlight individual zones and create light accents. It's in the living room original options lighting that emphasizes the overall style of the interior will be very appropriate. Read more about lighting and the location of sockets in the living room.
Designing lighting in the bedroom
In the bedroom, it is advisable to have multi-level lighting - a general overhead light and local lighting. When designing, keep in mind that each bed should have a separate lamp. This could be a lamp on the night table with dim light or a wall sconce above the bed. The main condition for this is that the light should be sufficient for reading, but not disturb the peace of the bedroom neighbors.
If wardrobes are in the bedroom, they should be well lit; built-in spotlights are ideal for this. U dressing table there should be its own lighting, as a rule, this is a table lamp or two sconces on both sides of the mirror. Read more about lighting and the location of sockets in the bedroom
Office lighting design
In the office it is necessary to combine local lighting with general lighting. This is due to the fact that visual fatigue and decreased performance occur the faster the lower the illumination (which often happens when using only general lighting) and the greater the difference in brightness of the working surface and surrounding objects (with local lighting).
Lighting in the office
When designing lighting in an office, it is necessary to remember that local lighting is subject to Additional requirements: the light on the work surface should fall from the left (for a right-handed person) and be diffused; for this, table lamp shades are made of light-diffusing materials. Therefore, the ideal lighting scenario for an office: a general lamp that does not cast shadows, and an additional lamp at the workstation with an adjustable luminous flux on a flexible rod or hinges. When working at a computer, it is also recommended to have uniform general lighting of the room and diffuse lighting of the table. Such light should not dazzle or create glare on the monitor screen.
Proper working office lighting presupposes monotony and uniformity, and unusual and original lighting solutions are sacrificed here for convenient work. Read about designing a home office.
Designing lighting in the kitchen and dining room
The same rules apply in the kitchen as for the office - after all, this is also workplace. The diffused, non-dazzled general light is complemented by spotlights, strip-shaped fluorescent or LED lamps built above the working surfaces of the tables.
Proper lighting in the kitchen
The dining area, regardless of location, be it the kitchen, living room or dining room, is a meeting place for the whole family. The lighting for the dining table should be soft and cozy. Hanging lamp above the table in warm colors(or several if the table is large) will create the necessary atmosphere of home comfort and peace. About independent design kitchens is written.
Lighting in the kitchen and dining room
Bathroom lighting
In the bathroom, two types of lighting are needed: general with diffused light and directional for illumination near the mirror. General lighting can be provided by a matte ceiling lamp or evenly distributed built-in moisture-proof spotlights. You can place moisture-proof sconces near the mirror or buy a mirror with built-in cosmetic lighting.
Lighting a home is one of the fundamental principles of its design. You could even say that the lighting design of an apartment is the first of the fundamental principles of its project. A competent housing project begins with the development of lighting: when it comes to stone, concrete and metal, it will be very difficult, if not impossible, to correct mistakes.
However, “lighting design” is a complex and multifaceted concept. Light should be healthy and comfortable, show the appearance of the room and express the individuality of its owner. Accordingly, lighting design consists of three disciplines stemming from each other:
- General lighting design, or just lighting or lighting design. It creates a physiologically based background on which everything else is located. By analogy with construction, this Basic structure or, more precisely, a hall with a stage and acoustics, in which a violin quartet and a rock band can perform with equal success.
- Light architecture emphasizes the conceptual orientation of the room and reveals the worldview of its inhabitants. Lighting architecture can be external, internal or interior. Some interior styles, such as modern and high-tech, are completely impossible to implement without appropriate lighting: the interior loses its expressiveness.
- And finally lighting design in the interior, or interior lighting design- an analogue of furniture and decor: it expresses the individuality of the owner. Unlike the first two, interior lighting design is flexible, just like furniture, figurines and paintings can be changed and moved.
This division is not at all far-fetched; it arises in the most natural way. Take a look at the picture: even without explanation, it is clear that on the left is lighting design, in the center is lighting architecture, and on the right is interior lighting design.
A full-fledged lighting design project includes all three components, but it is impossible to describe them in one article, so in this we'll talk about the initial and most important thing: the overall design of apartment lighting. Elements of lighting architecture and interior lighting design will be mentioned as necessary, when without them it is impossible to solve the overall lighting problem.
Types of lighting
All three types of lighting design work with natural, general (background), local, task and decorative lighting. You have to take the natural as it is, limiting yourself to lighting design (see below): softening, reflection, scattering. Otherwise, the general rules are:
- The background should be as shadowless and filled as possible. Our most ancient instincts see danger in the deep shadows, which creates psychological discomfort. In practice, for the sake of simplicity and economy, they achieve penumbra and openwork shadows.
- Local lighting should highlight interior details and decor, so the main requirement for it is a suitable spectrum, see the section on the properties of light.
- Working lighting is also local, but is no longer focused on the object, but on the eye: optimal brightness and spectrum are needed within the physiological limits of perception.
- There is only one requirement for decorative lighting (for example, ceiling lighting): it should not have a harmful effect on health.
Note: There is an informal type of lighting - background lighting. We will talk about it later, and the requirement for it is opacity when viewed from the outside.
Rules and regulations
Lighting should have a beneficial effect on vision, psyche and general health, so let's start with sanitary and hygienic requirements. The rules for lighting an apartment are regulated by physical parameters and “Natural and artificial lighting”; SanPiN 1278-03 remains valid for old buildings, but is not valid for the design of new ones. Aesthetics are not prescribed anywhere or in any way. The basic requirements are:
- illumination of common living rooms, kitchen and gym - 150 lux; children’s – 200 lux; office – 300 lux; hallway, toilet, combined bathroom - 50 lux; bath, sauna, swimming pool – 100 lux;
- coefficient natural light KEO at side lighting for common living rooms, kitchen, swimming pool and gym – 0.5; children's – 0.7; work office – 1.0; hallway, toilet, combined bathroom, bathtub, sauna - not regulated;
- for a swimming pool with a gym, the generalized indicator of psychological discomfort UGR is acceptable 60 with pulsations of artificial lighting up to 20% For the bathroom and toilet, it is not regulated; for other rooms UGR=0.
Notes:
- All values are minimum acceptable. Cloudy autumn day under open air the illumination is more than 10,000 lux, so there is no need to be afraid of “overkill” - there is no such thing as so much electricity in the wiring.
- KEO for overhead natural lighting is not considered; lateral KEO is measured in horizontal plane floor.
But what are these KEOs and UGRs? Let's see, starting with KEO, it is simpler. To tackle UGR, you'll need to understand a little about the properties of light.
KEO
KEO, simply put, is the proportion of natural light entering a room. If, for example, the light meter is on the floor open balcony showed 400 lux, and on the floor in the center of the room adjacent to it is 250 lux, then the KEO will be 250/400 = 0.625. The norm has been met.
How to determine KEO?
At home, KEO is quite easily determined by a camera, if it is not exactly a point-and-shoot camera:
- We take a white sheet of paper (not plastic or film) in a larger format, place it on the floor of the balcony or on the ground under the window on a clear afternoon, set the camera to aperture priority (mode A) and measure the shutter speed using it.
- We do the same in the room, standing facing the window. The ratio of shutter speeds (and modern cameras measure them with an accuracy of 1/3 - 1/4 stop) will give the KEO.
Example: shutter speed on paper outdoors is 1/60 s, and in the room - 1/40 s. KEO will be 40/60=0.67.
UGR
The discomfort coefficient UGR is calculated using the formula from the international standard EN 12464-1. It is based on the so-called hardness of light, which for some reason is called brilliance in regulatory documents (and who came up with such nonsense when Russian has a simple and understandable word? A sacred corporate language, or what?) Very bright light can be soft and favorable for vision, and dull hard - irritate and spoil it.
The hardness of light is determined by three parameters of the light flux: degrees of polarization, coherence and spectrum. The flow of light consists of a huge amount elementary particles from the class of bosons - photons, which are also quanta of electromagnetic radiation with a certain frequency, phase and directions of the electric and magnetic vectors. UGR varies from 0 to 100.
Polarization
The degree of polarization shows what proportion of photons the directions of the field vectors coincide. For cloudy skies and incandescent lamps, the total polarization is about zero, for clear skies and fluorescent lamps - a few percent, up to 20%; glare from mirror surfaces and light from quantum sources - lasers, LEDs - can be polarized 100%. Light is considered soft when polarized up to 10%. Directional reflection and refraction of light increases its polarization.
You can check the polarization of light with a photographic Polaroid filter: while looking through it, the Polaroid is rotated 180 degrees. If the overall brightness does not change noticeably, the light is considered comfortable, and by the disappearance or weakening, you can immediately see the sources of the light becoming harder.
Coherence
The degree of coherence shows what proportion of light quanta have the same phase. The hardness of light is determined by the length of the coherence train - the length of the section of the light flux in which the degree of coherence exceeds 50%. It is because of the fairly high coherence of light that flash photographs come out lifeless. It is impossible to determine the length of the coherence train at home, but under normal lighting, the absence of noticeable polarization also indicates an negligibly small coherence train. The exception is the same quantum sources: the coherence of their light can reach up to 100% at a distance of several meters.
Range
The eye easily adapts to the effective color temperature of lighting: if on a clear day it is sunlight is equal to 5700 K, then on a cloudy day it is 6300 K, and at sunset it drops to about 2000 K. But the spectrum of the Sun is thermal, smooth (in the figure on the left), therefore thermal light sources are best suited for vision: ordinary incandescent lamps, xenon, krypton, freon, halogen. Unfortunately, they are not economical, so modern lighting housing is increasingly built on the use of fluorescent lamps.
The luminescent spectrum (middle in the figure) is pseudo-white, there are noticeable dips in its envelope. Objects of colors that coincide with the dips appear visually darker under artificial lighting, which creates disharmony. In addition, obtaining pseudo-white light requires a slight increase in the intensity of the spectral zones, which is also not very good for vision.
Nevertheless, scientists and engineers are tirelessly working to improve fluorescent lamps, and their modern models with a three-layer phosphor provide light that is almost as comfortable as diffused sunlight.
How to check the quality of light?
At home, the quality of light from a saving light bulb can be roughly determined if the household has something low-power powered by a solar battery: a calculator, a receiver. The procedure is:
- We “calibrate” the device with a 40-60 W incandescent light bulb: we detect at what distance from it the battery will give the operating current and the device will turn on.
- We bring it to a fluorescent lamp: if the distance at which the battery “breathes” decreases by no more than 2.5 times, the light is comfortable. The power of the light bulb being tested can be in the range of 13-24 W; for 9-11 W, the battery operating distance is reduced by another 1.5 times.
Example: the device turned on 0.6 m from the incandescent lamp and 15 cm from the 11 W housekeeper. 60/15=4, and 2.5x1.5=3.75. The lamp is a crappy “alternative” one; Only suitable for local lighting.
Additions to SNiP 23-05-95 allow the use LED lamps subject to sanitary standards, but for general lighting of rooms they are completely unsuitable, not only in polarization with coherence, but also in spectrum: it is synthetic, island (in the figure on the right). The point here is not so much that objects caught in its deep holes will appear black.
The main disadvantage of the island spectrum is the high concentration of energy in the peaks of the envelope, which is necessary to create the desired overall brightness of white. Energy peaks overload the visual sensors of the eye, which spoils vision and health in general. By analogy: a blow to the head with a pillow will only make you angry, but a brick can kill you.
Therefore, the main areas of application of LEDs in residential lighting are ceiling lighting design and backlighting/lighting, and it is highly desirable to place light strips behind the eaves so that at least polarization and coherence due to diffuse reflection are reduced.
About surface brightness
According to sanitary standards, the surface brightness of light sources should not exceed 200 cd/sq.m. Halogen lamps, which provide a thermal spectrum that is very favorable for vision, go far beyond this threshold, representing point sources of light. Therefore, when illuminated working area it is necessary to hide behind the visor or recess into the furniture, and for general lighting use lamps with frosted caps or diffuse re-reflection of light, directing it towards white ceiling or on the walls.
Video: errors in lighting design
Fuck the lighting design
Designing room lighting begins with natural lighting. Then, according to KEO, an artificial one must be attached to it: light shock from turning on too bright a light is also harmful. The binding is done to determine the required power of light sources.
Then, based on the original interior design layout, the types and range of lighting fixtures and their technical characteristics are selected. In this case, it is often necessary to modify the layout.
The next stage is, and based on its result, a electrical diagram apartment lighting. And only after that the light is “pasted” into construction project, which again may require various kinds improvements.
About the concepts of light
There are two general approach for lighting: European and American.
- The basis of the European is as an element that unites people, that same cozy, brightly lit place that Hemingway yearned for.
- The American concept is economical and individual, based on sconces. To hell with all sorts of gatherings, I’ll hide in my corner with a glass of whiskey and stop the meter moving less.
Both approaches make it possible to obtain background almost shadowless lighting, and a lampshade or halogen lights scattered across the ceiling instead of a chandelier allow you to use a synthetic approach: ceiling light sectionally through double switch, and sconces - with individual switches. The problem of many wires is solved by covering the walls and ceiling, with electrical cords hidden under it.
Independent proper lighting of an apartment comes down to lighting it room by room, and that’s what we’ll do.
Video: an alternative subjective view of types of lighting
Natural light
When passing through glass or reflecting off a mirror, direct natural light can become too harsh. In addition, the light from the window should not be too harsh or overly directed.
Hard light is softened by translucent or openwork barriers - tulle, organza. They also diffuse light, which has long been used to optimize natural lighting.
Nowadays, there is a means that, in addition, allows you to direct the light where you need it without using mirrors that polarize it: vertical fabric blinds. Even if their panels are located parallel to the rays, due to diffraction they reduce the hardness of light to an acceptable value. Rotating the panels gives a diffuse reflection in the desired direction, and by moving them apart, you can intercept part of the light flux and direct it to a dark corner. On sale you can already find “smart” blinds that automatically maintain the optimal lighting mode for the room, but for DIYers familiar with electronics, this is a huge unplowed field.
Artificial lighting
General rules
To connect interior design with lighting, it is useful to remember the following:
- Light and color give space if they are coordinated along the spectrum: highlighting red with blue will only give a failure.
- The planes visibly stretch in the direction of the light flow.
- Rooms with an overall light design tone should be illuminated evenly, while dark rooms should be illuminated in zones.
- Zones are illuminated evenly.
- The work light should be white.
- Local light for colored objects also needs white, but for white objects colored light is possible.
- Deep shadows are undesirable in any case.
About halogens
Halogen lamps create decent shadow-free lighting with low power consumption, because... evenly distributed across the ceiling, they form a kind of radiating plane. But the shadows under the furniture will be deep, so living rooms halogens need to be deprived of their “spotness”, as described above. In small rooms (kitchen, hallway) you can’t really look down, and there you can use halogens for general lighting without any need.
Determining the intensity of light
We take as a support a house-saving light bulb that has been tested for light quality. To determine the total power for lighting a room, we measure the illumination created by it alone, suspended from the ceiling, on the floor in the center. If it is not possible to use a lux meter or submit an application to the SES to measure illumination, the same camera will help out: put it in S mode (shutter priority), and measure the exposure according to white sheet. A value of approximately 100 lux corresponds to 0.5 s at aperture A = 2.8, 1 s at A = 4 and 2 s at A = 5.6.
Example: camera lens with a maximum “hole” of 4. The metering gave a shutter speed of 4 s. Illumination – no more than (1/4) x 100 = 25 lux. To create a total illumination of 150 lux, you need at least 6 of these bulbs.
Selecting sources
The overall lighting design of a room is determined not only by the properties of their light, but also by the radiation patterns of the radiation patterns, see fig. Cardioid pattern is preferred for general lighting of any medium-sized room.
Cardioid is produced by one lamp or a group of lamps in a lampshade. If the lamp bulbs are positioned horizontally, the cardioid will be pulled down; if vertically with the flasks down, the DN will stretch to the sides. The first is preferable for rooms with dark furniture; the second is for light ones.
A figure eight is obtained from a cardioid if the lamp is equipped with a lower reflector (“pallet”). Similar in properties to cardioid, but more suitable for lighting large areas or rooms with high ceilings.
Lamps in the reflector have a fan pattern. The narrower and deeper the reflector, the smaller the fan opening. Used for local, task and area lighting. Lamps with a fan pattern, adjustable in height, can successfully solve the problem of lighting a common one-room apartment: by raising them and lowering them, you can adjust the size of zones with light.
DN-petal is given by sconces. The “ear” of the petal can be directed up or down, depending on the location of the lamp: with the bulb up or down, respectively. In the horizontal plane, the sconce design is cardioid. In the American system, it is customary to use sconces with the ear facing upward; in European - ear down and lower power, for temporary working lighting.
The cosecant square (beacon, radar) pattern has the most important advantage: within the light spot, the illumination is theoretically ideal, but practically almost uniform. Achieving CC DN is technically difficult, but a table lamp with a bulb with the bulb facing up and a large hemispherical reflector lampshade above it gives almost this. Have you seen Lenin's table lamp in the pictures? Whoever he was, having spent his entire life processing mountains of documents, he didn’t feel the need for glasses.
About raster lamps
Raster lamps are suitable for large public spaces with high ceilings. In living rooms, this is exactly the case when the light that is optimal in brightness turns out to be unacceptably hard.
Placement of lamps
We will look at the placement of lamps using examples, because... It is impossible to give a universal recipe for all tastes and needs. There is only one thing in common – European lighting. The American light did not take root anywhere except in the extremely utilitarian USA, and in Puritan England too.
Living room
The lighting is based on the center of the ceiling, see pic left and center. DN for bright living rooms - cardioid; for big ones, complex shape and darkish ones - eight; This allows you to illuminate walls and corners without wasting extra power. If the arrangement is light plasterboard ceiling(right), an even more economical shadowless background can be achieved with halogens, and a decorative one will also fit into it LED lights.
Bedroom
- the only room where it is not only acceptable, but also recommended: by changing its color, you can change the mood of the room for sleep, waking rest, or whatever else they do in the bedroom. For the “bed” area, lighting with sconces or floor lamps at the head of the room is sufficient (see figure), but ceiling lamp needs to be moved to the center of the wakefulness zone. A fan-shaped one with a wide opening, adjustable in height, is very suitable: the size of the waking area can be changed according to the current use of the bedroom.
The bedroom lighting is perfectly complemented by LED window lighting. Ribbons are placed around the perimeter of the window opening so that they shine along the glass, and are curtained from the inside with organza. On the bed in such a bedroom you can open window do the incredible, and the spies will not see anything except, perhaps, vague shadows.
Children's
Hard light hits children's eyes especially hard, so on the ceiling you need a matte lampshade or halogen lamps with matte caps. Lighting options are shown in the figure; on the right - formally correct, but psychologically unacceptable. All dark decorative cloud cornices spoil. Who feels comfortable living under a stormy sky all the time? Certainly not for children.
Kitchen
Halogens are optimal for lighting. Shadows under the furniture here are not noticeable, and halogen lamps will not only put less strain on the kitchen wiring (which is already the busiest in the apartment), but also clean themselves of settling fumes, because... They get very hot during operation. How to get rid of halogen dots is described above; An example of successful kitchen lighting design is shown in the figure on the left - in the kitchen the work area should dominate the lighting.
Hallway
The lighting of the corridor should, first of all, be uniform: - the face of the house, and, I beg your pardon, decent citizens with a distorted face do not show themselves in public. Economical LED lighting due to the cornice with reflection from white matte ceiling, on the left in the figure, is completely justified: they don’t stay in the hallway for a long time, but the most ordinary matte lampshades in the center will also work.
But elaborate lighting solutions, as in Fig. on the right, should be avoided: a visitor, a conversation with whom may be fundamentally important for you, may have the subconscious impression that he has not come to a promising subordinate or potential partner, and to Dracula's castle.
Bathroom
Optimal lighting – even, soft, almost shadowless, as in Fig. left. Deep shadows, highlights, spots, as in the two figs. on the right, and the skin pores will not be allowed to open properly when washing, and intestinal motility will be made sluggish. This is usually solved with just one lamp on the ceiling - bathrooms are finished with light, highly reflective materials.
The lamps contain incandescent lamps. The light in the bathroom does not burn for days, so saving is not important, but there are more than enough glare surfaces. In addition, for housekeepers hidden in moisture-proof lamps, the electronics quickly fail due to overheating.
The working lighting of the mirror is matte halogens (second position from the left in the figure), as in the nursery, but the reason is different: the dots that hurt the eyes will not allow you to see minor flaws in appearance, which will then be noticeable to others.
Studio apartment
The lighting of a studio apartment is based on the principle of promoting zoning. Good example shown in the figure on the left. The highlight is that it is located in the center of the seating area ceiling lamp with a figure eight pattern. In combination with the directional flow of light from the window, such general light makes any other methods of zoning a room effective.
About stretch ceilings
Lighting suspended ceilings technically comes down to the selection of lamps and ceiling materials that are compatible in terms of heat release and energy flux density (PED), but this is a separate topic that is not related to lighting design. As for him as such, then stretch ceiling They were just invented for the sake of complete light self-expression (see figure), therefore the methods of lighting them are not regulated anywhere and in any way, and to give instructions would mean to emasculate the idea.
But one piece of advice still needs to be given: in case the unspeakable beauty in the inter-ceiling space is turned off, provide a weak backlight to match overall design, as follows. rice. left. Otherwise, the reflective ceiling can spoil the peaceful comfort of the room, as can be seen there on the right.
Video: examples of ceiling lighting
What about warmth? Don't forget!
Even the most economical energy-saving light bulbs produce quite a lot of heat. Installation of lamps must be carried out taking this circumstance into account. Instructions are attached to the lighting fixtures (or they can be found by brand designation), which indicate the permissible power of the lamps, the distance to the walls, etc. These instructions must be followed, but there is a caveat for housekeepers: their heat output in watts is calculated separately. The mains voltage is known, and the current consumption is indicated on the base.
The fact is that the housekeeper's electrical circuit has a fairly high reactivity, and the power designation on the packaging shows the effective power consumption, how much the meter will wind. For some time after turning on the heat, the housekeeper will release more, and then will release less. Housekeepers that burn out quickly are the result of placing them in dull, cramped lampshades, so let the generally good bulbs breathe freely.
Today, carrying out European-quality renovations in your apartment is not uncommon. But no matter what interior is chosen, without decent lighting it will not make the right impression. Considering that the presence of electrical appliances in apartments has increased significantly, the old wiring cannot cope with the load. To achieve stability and safety, the correct lighting scheme for the apartment is necessary. It is not necessary to invite specialists. If you have the desire, you can replace the old electrical wiring yourself.
To ensure proper distribution of light, home lighting is planned and thought through. It should not only correspond to the interior design, but also provide residents with convenience and comfort.
How to do it right
There are two types of lighting: local and general. From the names it is clear that general is used to illuminate the entire room, and local - only in a certain area. If we talk in more detail about local lighting, it is divided into working and spot. Thus, work-type lighting is provided to illuminate the work area: the dining table in the kitchen, a place in the office, etc. Spot lighting emphasizes details: lighting of paintings, mirrors, decorative elements.
When planning the arrangement of light, you need to carefully think about what you want to achieve as a result. They focus not only on matching the interior, but also on the personal preferences of the owners.
What do you need
To arrange proper lighting, you must remember the following facts:
- Light must be provided individually for each room. If bright light is suitable for the living room, then for the bedroom it is necessary to provide a soft light flux.
- The layout of lamps and other light sources is based on the location functional zones requiring lighting.
- The correct selection of power and number of lighting fixtures will create a comfortable environment.
The most important thing is to accurately determine the location of the lamps Lighting plan
If you approach the provision of light in an apartment according to all the rules, then initially carry out the design.
The lighting scheme in the apartment is based on the design of the house itself and the rooms itself, the shape of the ceiling, finishing materials, and placement of furniture. After assessing all the factors on the apartment plan drawing, you need to select the placement of light fixtures, as well as switches and sockets.
Calculation of lighting (standards and number of lamps) To ensure proper lighting design, you need to determine what power will be optimal for a particular home. From here, an indicator such as the number of light sources and incandescent lamps needed for a certain area
. According to all the rules, the light power is distributed in the following way: every 5 m2 is illuminated by a lamp with a power of 60-65 kW. Based on these indicators, it will not be difficult to correctly calculate the number of light bulbs needed for a certain room.
Let's consider an example of how many lamps are needed to illuminate a living room with an area of 15 m2. The table below shows different types of lamps.
Connection diagram
After the number of devices to provide light has been determined, they begin to formulate a lighting plan for the apartment. It displays the locations of lamps or lighting groups, as well as elements that are used to turn light sources on and off. The type of switches used should also be noted. For example, you can set one-key or two-key. Sometimes, if the room has large area
, use redundant light switches. They are intended to regulate the same lighting fixture, but are located at different ends of the room. Example of a lighting plan with redundant switches
The type of lighting - ceiling or wall - is also indicated on the diagram drawing. Be sure to mark on the diagram which control element the lighting point belongs to.
Let's give an example of a light supply scheme for a one-room apartment with an area of about 40 m2. In accordance with the standards, no more than 8 lamps will be needed.
Lighting with devices in a one-room apartment can be done in the following way:
- 3 spotlights on the ceiling;
- one chandelier;
- two sconces;
- one floor lamp;
- lamp for lighting a desk.
Lighting scheme in a one-room apartment Installation of lighting in an apartment having a similar area, but consisting of two rooms, is ensured by:
- two chandeliers;
- 3-4 ceiling lamps;
- table lamp;
- two sconces and a floor lamp.
Lighting gasket
Lighting should be carried out using different types of light sources:
- Spotlights are built into a suspended or suspended ceiling.
- Conventional chandeliers are mounted in two ways: mounting on a hook in ceiling surface or using dowels.
Are used and Wall lights, table lamps for illuminating a specific area. LED strips have also become widespread to provide additional lighting. Depending on what types of lighting fixtures will be used, the electrical wiring diagram is selected.
On video: principles of designing lighting in an apartment.
Do-it-yourself electrical wiring: from diagram to installation
Installing electricity in a house is quite a responsible task. You can’t do without experience and certain skills.
The main thing is to know the correct aspects of wiring, read and create diagrams, and have electrical installation skills. But if you wish, you can master all this and make the gasket yourself. To do this, we will present recommendations on all aspects.
Basic Rules All the rules that must be followed when installing wiring, as with other types of construction work, are covered in SNiPs and GOSTs.
Regarding electrical wiring, please refer to the section “Rules for electrical installations (PUE)”. When starting work on wiring, be sure to study this section.
- We will provide a basic list of rules for installing wiring in an apartment:
- It is necessary to place the main components, such as a meter, sockets, switches, automatic machines, etc., in easily accessible places.
- The installation parameters for sockets are 0.5-0.8 m from the floor level. This is due to the prevention of short circuits when the apartment is flooded. Do not place sockets near gas or electric stoves, or near grounded objects. The distance from them should be at least 0.5 m.
- According to the standard, the number of sockets is planned to be 1 piece per 6 m2. A larger number of them is allowed in the kitchen, as they are necessary for connecting electrical appliances. There are no sockets installed in the bathroom, and it is better to provide a separate transformer for the bathroom.
- It is necessary to lay wires only along horizontal and vertical lines, which must be marked on the plan.
- When laying, it is necessary to take into account the location of pipes, ceilings and other obstacles. In the case of horizontal wires, the distance should be about 10 cm, and vertical - 15 cm.
- Be sure to ensure that the wires do not come into contact with metal objects.
- When laying several wires, ensure a distance of at least 3 mm between them. It is also advisable to insulate the wiring in a special corrugation.
- Special boxes should be used for routing wires. The connections are carefully insulated. Experts categorically prohibit the connection of aluminum and copper wires.
Electrical wiring design and diagram
Like any work, electrical wiring begins with design and drawing up diagrams. To create them, specialists are involved, of whom there are quite a lot in Moscow. After all, safety in the apartment, and throughout the house, depends on them. This service costs some money, but safety and peace of mind are paramount.
If you decide to do the work yourself, and have initial knowledge in the field of electricity, then you should adhere to all the rules described above. Make sure that all light loads are calculated correctly.
To draw up a project and diagrams, you need to start with mastering symbols. Their decoding is given below in the photo.
They begin the project by creating an apartment plan, which marks all the lighting points, the location of switches and sockets. Next, taking into account all the rules, the lines for laying the conductors are drawn. In order for the wiring diagram to be practical, the location of the devices is thought out in advance.
At the next stage of drawing up the diagram, the connection to the connection point is thought out. This point requires more detailed consideration. This is due different types connections: parallel, serial or mixed. The latter method is the most economical in terms of material use and operational efficiency.
To facilitate the process, connection points are divided into groups:
- lighting layout for the kitchen, corridor and living rooms;
- ensuring illumination of the bathroom and bathroom;
- arrangement of sockets in the residential area;
- electricity supply for the kitchen;
- arrangement of sockets for electric stoves.
This is one example of grouping for a wiring diagram. The bottom line is that the more carefully thought out the groups are, the more economical the costs of materials will be, and simpler drawing scheme. The dimensions of the apartment also matter. In a one-room room, design is carried out in one way, and in a room with a large area - with the addition of elements.
Next important point– load calculation. It must be indicated in the project. Calculations are made using the formula I=P/U. It uses the values P - the sum of the powers of all devices that are planned to be used, U - an indicator of the voltage in the network.
An example of voltage calculation: electric kettle - 2.2 kW, lighting with 10 light bulbs with a power of 100 W, power of the refrigerator and microwave in total 1.4 W. In apartments, the current strength is traditionally 220 Volts. After calculations we get: (2200+1000+1400):220=20.1 A.
There are some minor assumptions. You can add a little to the calculated load. But, according to the standard, it is required not to exceed 25 A. Having calculated the load, they begin to purchase necessary materials, based on the result. To make the choice easier, the table below shows the main parameters of the wire and cable.
Electrical wiring installation
Important! When installing new wiring, first dismantle the old one. In this case, it is necessary to use a voltage tester.
Drawing the diagram and preparing channels
All work begins with transferring the drawing directly to the walls. Prepare the surface according to the following algorithm:
1. According to the plan, we mark with a marker the necessary places for the wiring to pass. Then mark the installation locations of the elements: sockets, panels, machines, etc. Everything is marked out according to plan.
2. Using a drill with a “crown” attachment, holes are made for boxes for them at the locations of sockets and switches.
3. Using a hammer drill, grooves are made. You can also use a turbine for this. The groove must be of a certain size so that the wire fits easily into it.
After the surface is ready, wires are brought into the space from the corner side. To do this you need to make a hole in the wall. It is best if it is placed in the corner of the room.
Installation of open wiring
On initial stage The shield is installed at a certain height. An RCD is placed directly into the shield. By quantity they are determined according to lighting groups. The structure of the shield looks like this: terminals for neutral wires are located at the top, and grounding terminals at the bottom. Between them there are machine guns.
Connection in switchboard device carried out in the following way: blue wire to the neutral terminal, white wire to the RCD in its upper part, yellow wires to the ground terminals. The connections of the machines are made in parallel.
For open type installation, first fasten along the marked lines of the box. Fastening is carried out using dowels with self-tapping screws. The extreme ones are arranged at a distance of about 5-7 cm, and then they adhere to a step of 0.5 m.
Important! When installing open-type wiring, there is no need to prepare holes for sockets and switches. They use products that are hung on the plane of the wall.
All wires along marked lines are placed in boxes and led to distribution boxes. Connections are made directly there. This can be done by tightly twisting, after which the wires must be carefully insulated.
Installation of hidden wiring
Hidden electrical wiring is installed a little easier in terms of the amount of work. According to the principle of connection, it differs from the open type only in that it is placed inside the walls, in a groove prepared in advance. Before placing the wires in the groove, boxes for switches and sockets are installed. They are fixed using alabaster. When the material has hardened, electrical wires are inserted into them and, according to the plan, they are led in the groove to the distribution boxes.
After all sockets and switches are installed, connected lighting, the wires in the boxes have been connected, it is necessary to check the correctness of the connection. To prevent mistakes, the connections are “ringed” with a special device for electrical testing.
On video: TOP 10 electrical wiring rules.
Which wire to use
Cables for providing electricity in an apartment must be selected according to certain criteria. It is advisable not to change anything at your own discretion, since the safe operation of the system depends on this.
Material and design
The materials used to make wires come in two varieties: aluminum and copper. Aluminum ones are inexpensive, but copper ones are much more reliable and can provide high-quality operation.
According to their structure, wires are divided into single-core and multi-core. In the first case, the material is covered with an insulation shell. The characteristics of single conductors include: they are cheap, easy to install, and have a high degree of rigidity. The latter property leads to frequent fractures of the conductor.
Craftsmen prefer to work with stranded wires. They have good resistance to twisting and bending. If the circuit involves a sharp turn, then you can be sure that the conductor will not break.
Cable cross-section for wiring in an apartment
Cable cross-section is one of the important characteristics. Its indicator directly determines whether the conductor can withstand the applied voltage. Measured in square millimeters. Thus, in aluminum conductors with a core cross-section of 1 mm 2, a voltage of 8 A can be withstand. With regard to copper products, 1 mm 2 can pass 10 A.
The choice of conductor cross-section must be carried out under load. It is not allowed to use wires whose cross-section is smaller than the intended load.
Core insulation thickness
Any conductor has insulation. To ensure this, plastic materials are used. The thickness of the core insulating layer is determined by the articles regulatory documents. For example, for a conductor designed for a load of 660 V, with a cross-section of 1.5-2.5 mm2, the insulation thickness is 0.6 mm.
Shell thickness
The next point to pay attention to is the outer sheath of the cable. It is she who closes several wires of the conductor. Similar to core insulation, plastic materials are used for external insulation, but its thickness is much greater. Mostly 1.4-1.8 mm. Take into account the fact that there are permissible deviations.
Marking
On any cable there are signs called markings. It allows you to better read information about the characteristics of the product:
- The first letter indicates the material from which the outer shell of the product is made.
- The following letters can indicate properties such as the degree of tightness, flammability of the insulating layer, the presence of steel strips in the insulation, flatness or flexibility.
- The material from which the conductor is made is indicated only on aluminum cables letter "A". On copper products the letter of the material is not indicated.
- Additionally, you can read information about the manufacturer and date of manufacture.
Core colors
The core insulation can be of a single color, or sometimes it can be applied in a 1 mm thick strip along the entire length of the product.
The color of the core insulation characterizes the purpose of the conductor:
- the first is the phase, this is red, brown and white insulation;
- second – zero, blue;
- the third is grounding, green or green-yellow.
The process of planning lighting in a home is quite a responsible one. But if the goal is achieved with all compliance with the rules, then this will lead to an amazing result. The right light in the interior enhances the effect several times. Consumer impressions are assessed from comments found on the Internet.
How to choose cables and circuit breakers for an apartment (1 video)
