The sun as a source of free energy: we make a solar battery with our own hands. Photo manual: DIY solar battery step by step DIY solar panel kit
Hello Dear blog readers! In our 21st century, changes are constantly taking place. They are especially noticeable in the technological aspect. Cheaper energy sources are being invented, and various devices are being distributed everywhere to make people’s lives easier. Today we will talk about such a thing as a solar battery - a device that is not breakthrough, but nevertheless, which is becoming more and more part of people’s lives every year. We will talk about what this device is, what advantages and disadvantages it has. We will also pay attention to how to assemble a solar battery with your own hands.
Summary of this article:
Solar battery: what is it and how does it work?
A solar battery is a device that consists of a certain set of solar cells (photocells) that convert solar energy into electricity. Most solar panels are made of silicon since this material has good efficiency in “processing” incoming sunlight.
Solar panels work as follows:
Photovoltaic silicon cells, which are packaged in a common frame (frame), receive sunlight. They heat up and partially absorb the incoming energy. This energy immediately releases electrons inside the silicon, which through specialized channels enter a special capacitor, in which electricity is accumulated and, being processed from constant to variable, is supplied to devices in the apartment/residential building.
Advantages and disadvantages of this type of energy
The advantages include the following:
- Our Sun is an environmentally friendly source of energy that does not contribute to environmental pollution. Solar panels do not emit various harmful waste into the environment.
- Solar energy is inexhaustible (of course, while the Sun is alive, but this is still billions of years in the future). From this it follows that solar energy would definitely be enough for your entire life.
- Once you have installed solar panels correctly, you will not need to maintain them frequently in the future. All you need is to carry out a preventive examination once or twice a year.
- Impressive service life of solar panels. This period starts from 25 years. It is also worth noting that even after this time they will not lose their performance characteristics.
- Installation of solar panels may be subsidized by the government. For example, this is actively happening in Australia, France, and Israel. In France, 60% of the cost of solar panels is returned.
The disadvantages include the following:
- So far, solar panels are not competitive, for example, if you need to generate large amounts of electricity. This is more successful in the oil and nuclear industries.
- Electricity production directly depends on weather conditions. Naturally, when it’s sunny outside, your solar panels will operate at 100% power. When it’s a cloudy day, this figure will drop significantly.
- To produce a large amount of energy, solar panels require a large area.
As you can see, this energy source still has more advantages than disadvantages, and the disadvantages are not as terrible as it would seem.
Do-it-yourself solar battery from improvised means and materials at home
Despite the fact that we live in a modern and rapidly developing world, the purchase and installation of solar panels remains the lot of wealthy people. The cost of one panel that will produce only 100 Watts varies from 6 to 8 thousand rubles. This is not counting the fact that you will have to buy capacitors, batteries, a charge controller, a network inverter, a converter and other things separately. But if you don’t have a lot of money, but want to switch to an environmentally friendly source of energy, then we have good news for you - you can assemble a solar battery at home. And if you follow all the recommendations, its efficiency will be no worse than that of the version assembled on an industrial scale. In this part we will look at step-by-step assembly. We will also pay attention to the materials from which solar panels can be assembled.
From diodes
This is one of the most budget materials. If you are planning to make a solar battery for your home from diodes, then remember that these components are used to assemble only small solar panels that can power some minor gadgets. D223B diodes are best suited. These are Soviet-style diodes, which are good because they have a glass case, due to their size they have a high installation density and have a reasonable price.
After purchasing the diodes, clean them of paint - to do this, just place them in acetone for a couple of hours. After this time, it can be easily removed from them.
Then we will prepare the surface for the future placement of diodes. This can be a wooden plank or any other surface. It is necessary to make holes in it throughout its entire area. Between the holes it will be necessary to maintain a distance of 2 to 4 mm.
Then we take our diodes and insert them with aluminum tails into these holes. After this, the tails need to be bent in relation to each other and soldered so that when receiving solar energy they distribute electricity into one “system”.
Our primitive solar battery made of glass diodes is ready. At the output, it can provide energy of a couple of volts, which is a good indicator for a homemade assembly.
From transistors
This option will be more serious than the diode one, but it is still an example of harsh manual assembly.
In order to make a solar battery from transistors, you will first need the transistors themselves. Fortunately, they can be bought in almost any market or electronic stores.
After purchase, you will need to cut off the cover of the transistor. Hidden under the lid is the most important and necessary element - a semiconductor crystal.
Then we insert them into the frame and solder them together, observing the “input-output” standards.
At the output, such a battery can provide enough power to operate, for example, a calculator or a small diode light bulb. Again, such a solar battery is assembled purely for fun and does not represent a serious “power supply” element.
From aluminum cans
This option is already more serious, unlike the first two. It's also incredibly cheap and effective method get energy. The only thing is that at the output there will be much more of it than in the versions of diodes and transistors, and it will not be electrical, but thermal. All you need is a large number of aluminum cans and a housing. A wooden body works well. In the building front part must be covered with plexiglass. Without it, the battery will not work effectively.
Before starting assembly, you need to paint the aluminum cans with black paint. This will allow them to attract sunlight well.
Then, using tools, three holes are punched in the bottom of each jar. At the top, in turn, a star-shaped cutout is made. The free ends are bent outwards, which is necessary for improved turbulence of the heated air to occur.
After these manipulations, the cans are folded into longitudinal lines (pipes) into the body of our battery.
A layer of insulation is then laid between the pipes and the walls/back wall ( mineral wool). The collector is then covered with transparent cellular polycarbonate.
This completes the assembly process. The last step is to install the air fan as a motor for the energy carrier. Although such a battery does not generate electricity, it can effectively warm up a living space. Of course, this will not be a full-fledged radiator, but such a battery can warm up a small room - for example, an excellent option for a summer house. About full-fledged bimetallic radiators heating we discussed in the article - in which we examined in detail the structure of such heating batteries, their technical characteristics and compared manufacturers. I advise you to read it.
Do-it-yourself solar battery - how to make, assemble and manufacture?
Moving away from homemade options We will pay attention to more serious things. Now we’ll talk about how to properly assemble and make a real solar battery with your own hands. Yes - this is also possible. And I want to assure you that it will be no worse than purchased analogues.
To begin with, it is worth saying that you probably will not be able to find on the open market the actual silicon panels that are used in full-fledged solar cells. Yes, and they will be expensive. We will assemble our solar battery from monocrystalline panels - a cheaper option, but showing excellent performance in terms of generating electrical energy. Moreover, monocrystalline panels are easy to find and are quite inexpensive. They are different sizes. The most popular and popular option is 3x6 inches, which produces 0.5V equivalent. We will have enough of these. Depending on your finances, you can buy at least 100-200 of them, but today we will put together an option that is enough to power small batteries, light bulbs and other small electronic elements.
Selection of photocells
As we stated above, we chose a monocrystalline base. You can find it anywhere. The most popular place where it is sold in huge quantities is the Amazon or Ebay trading platforms.
The main thing to remember is that it is very easy to run into unscrupulous sellers there, so buy only from those people who have a fairly high rating. If the seller has a good rating, then you will be sure that your panels will reach you well packaged, not broken, and in the quantity you ordered.
Site selection (attitude system), design and materials
After you have received your package with the main solar cells, you must carefully choose the location for installing your solar panel. After all, you will need it to work at 100% power, right? Professionals in this matter advise installing it in a place where the solar battery will be directed just below the celestial zenith and look towards West-East. This will allow you to “catch” sunlight almost all day.
Making a solar battery frame
- First you need to make a solar panel base. It can be wooden, plastic or aluminum. Wood and plastic perform best. It must be of sufficient size, in order to place all your solar cells in a row, but at the same time they will not have to dangle inside the entire structure.
- After you have assembled the base of the solar battery, you will need to drill many holes on its surface for the future output of conductors into a single system.
- By the way, do not forget that the entire base must be covered with plexiglass on top to protect your elements from weather conditions.
Soldering elements and connecting
Once your base is ready, you can place your elements on its surface. Place the photocells along the entire structure with the conductors down (you push them into our drilled holes).
Then they need to be soldered together. There are many schemes on the Internet for soldering photocells. The main thing is to connect them into a kind of unified system so that they can all collect the received energy and direct it to the capacitor.
The last step will be to solder the “output” wire, which will be connected to the capacitor and output the received energy into it.
Installation
This is the final step. Once you are sure that all the elements are assembled correctly, fit tightly and do not wobble, and are well covered with plexiglass, you can begin installation. In terms of installation, it is better to mount the solar battery on a solid base. A metal frame reinforced with construction screws is perfect. The solar panels will sit firmly on it, not wobble or succumb to any weather conditions.
That's all! What do we end up with? If you made a solar battery consisting of 30-50 photocells, then this will be quite enough to quickly charge your mobile phone or light a small household light bulb, i.e. What you end up with is a full-fledged homemade charger for charging a phone battery, an outdoor country lamp, or a small garden lantern. If you have made a solar panel, for example, with 100-200 photocells, then we can already talk about “powering” some household appliances, for example, a boiler for heating water. In any case, such a panel will be cheaper than purchased analogues and will save you money.
Video - how to make a solar battery with your own hands?
This section presents photographs of some interesting, but at the same time simple options for homemade solar panels that you can easily assemble with your own hands.
What is better - to buy or make a solar battery?
Let's summarize in this part everything we learned in this article. Firstly, we figured out how to assemble a solar battery at home. As you can see, a DIY solar battery can be assembled very quickly if you follow the instructions. If you follow the various manuals step by step, you will be able to collect excellent options for providing you with environmentally friendly electricity (or options designed to power small elements).
But still, what is better - to buy or make a solar battery? Naturally, it is better to buy it. The fact is that those options that are manufactured on an industrial scale are designed to work the way they should work. When manually assembling solar panels, you can often make various mistakes that will lead to them simply not working properly. Naturally, industrial options are worth big money, but you get quality and durability.
But if you are confident in your abilities, then the right approach you will assemble a solar panel that will be no worse than its industrial counterparts. In any case, the future is here and soon solar panels will be able to afford all the layers. And there, perhaps, there will be a complete transition to the use of solar energy. Good luck!
Solar energy is just great, but here’s the problem: even one battery costs a lot of money, and for a good effect you need more than one, or even two. That's why the idea comes - to collect everything yourself. If you have a little soldering skill, this is easy to do. The entire assembly consists of sequentially connecting the elements into tracks, and securing the tracks to the body. Let's talk about the price right away. A set for one panel (36 pieces) costs around $70-80. And complete DIY solar panels with all the materials will cost you about $120-150. Much less than factory ones. But it must be said that they will also be less powerful. On average, each photoconverter produces 0.5 V, if you connect 36 pieces in series, it will be about 18 V.
A little theory: types of photocells for solar panels
The most a big problem- purchase photoelectric converters. These are the same silicon wafers that convert sunlight into electricity. Here you need to understand a little about the types of photocells. They are produced in two types: polycrystalline and monocrystalline. Monocrystalline are more expensive, but have more high efficiency- 20-25%, polycrystalline - cheaper, but their productivity is less - 17-20%. How to distinguish them externally? Polycrystalline have a bright blue color. Monocrystalline ones are a little darker and they have not a square, but a multifaceted shape - a square with cut edges.
About the release form. There are solar cells with already soldered conductors, and there are kits where the conductors are included and you need to solder everything yourself. Everyone decides for themselves what to buy, but it must be said that without skill you will damage at least one plate, but most likely more than one. And if you don’t know how to solder very well... then it’s better to pay a little more, but get parts that are almost ready for use.
Making photocells for solar panels with your own hands is unrealistic. To do this, you need to be able to grow silicon crystals and then process it. Therefore, you need to know where to buy. More on this later.
Where and how to buy photocells
Now about the quality. All Chinese sites like Ebay or Alibaba sell rejects. Those parts that did not pass tests at the factory. That's why you won't get a perfect battery. But their price is not the highest, so you can put up with it. At least at first. Assemble a couple of test solar panels with your own hands, get your hands on it, and then you can take it from the factory.
Some sell solar cells sealed in wax. This prevents them from being damaged during transportation, but it is quite difficult to get rid of the wax without damaging the plates. You need to dip them all together in hot, but not boiling water. Wait until the wax melts, then carefully separate. Then bathe each plate one by one in a hot soapy solution, then dip it in clean hot water. You may need several such “ablutions”; the water and soap solution will have to be changed, and more than once. After removing the wax, place the clean plates on terry towel for drying. This is a very troublesome matter. So it's better to buy without wax. It's much easier this way.
Now about shopping on Chinese sites. Specifically about Ebay and Alibaba. They are verified, thousands of people buy something there every day. The system is no different. After registration, as usual, enter the name of the element in the search bar. Then you choose the offer you like for some reason. Be sure to choose from those options where there are free shipping(in English free shipping). If there is no such mark, then delivery will have to be paid separately. And it is often more than the cost of the product and certainly more than the difference that you gain on the price.
You need to focus not only on the price, but also on the seller’s rating and reviews. Read carefully the composition of the product, its parameters and reviews. You can communicate with the seller, but you need to write messages in English.
Regarding payment. It is transferred to the seller on these sites only after you sign off on receiving the goods. In the meantime, while delivery is underway, your money is in the account of the trading platform. You can pay with a card. If you are afraid to reveal your card data, use intermediate services. They are different, but the essence is the same - your card will not light up. There are also returns on these sites, but this is a long story, so it is better to buy from trusted sellers (with good ratings and reviews).
Yes. The delivery depends on the region. And the point is not so much how long it will take to get from China, but how soon the mail will deliver it. At best, three weeks, but maybe a month and a half.
How to assemble
Assembling a solar battery with your own hands consists of three stages:
- Making the frame.
- Soldering solar cells.
- Framing and sealing.
The frame can be made from aluminum corners or wooden slats. But the shape of the frame, materials, and manufacturing sequence depend on the installation method.
Method one: installation on a window
The battery is hung on a window, on a frame from inside the room or outside, but also on the window. Then you need to make a frame from an aluminum corner, and glue glass or polycarbonate to it. In this case, at least small gaps remain between the photocells, through which some light penetrates into the room. You choose the frame dimensions based on the size of your solar cells and how you are going to arrange them. The dimensions of the window may also play a role. Please note that the plane must be flat - photoelectric converters are very fragile and will crack at the slightest distortion.
Having unfolded the finished frame with the glued glass face down, apply a layer of sealant to the surface of the glass. Place the rulers assembled from photocells on the sealant, again face down.
Make a mat from thick elastic foam rubber (thickness at least 4 cm) and a piece of plastic film (200 microns): cover the foam rubber with film and fasten it well. It is better to solder polyethylene, but you can also use tape, but all joints should be on the same side. The second one should be even and smooth. The size of the mat should fit well into the frame (without bending or effort).
We laid the mat on photocells embedded in sealant. There is a board on it, which is slightly smaller in size than the frame, and a solid load on the board. This simple device will help expel air bubbles that are trapped under the photocells. Air reduces productivity, and greatly. Because the fewer bubbles there are, the better. Leave the entire structure for 12 hours.
Now it's time to remove the weight and unstick the mat. Do it slowly and without haste. It is important not to damage the soldering and conductors. Therefore, pull smoothly, without jerking. After the mat has been removed, the panel must be left for a while to dry. When the sealant stops sticking, you can hang the panel and use it.
Instead of a lengthy procedure with sealant, you can use a special film for sealing. It's called EVA. Simply spread the film on top of the battery assembled and laid on the glass and heat it with a hair dryer until it is completely sealed. It takes much less time.
Method two: installation on a wall, roof, etc.
In this case everything is different. The back wall should be dense and non-conductive. Possibly - wooden, plywood, etc. Therefore, it makes sense to make the frame from wooden blocks. Only the height of the body should be small so that the shadow from the sides does not interfere.
In the photo, the body consists of two halves, but this is not at all necessary. It's just easier to assemble and lay short rulers, but in this case there will be more connections. Yes. A few nuances: you need to provide several holes in the housing. At the bottom you need several pieces for the condensation to escape, as well as two holes for the conductors from the battery.
Then paint the battery case with white paint - silicon wafers have a fairly wide range of operating temperatures, but it is not unlimited: from -40 o C to +50 o C. And in the summer in closed box+50 o C comes up easily. That’s why white color is needed so that the photoconverters do not overheat. Overheating, like hypothermia, leads to reduced efficiency. This, by the way, may explain an incomprehensible phenomenon: it’s noon, the sun is hot, and the battery began to produce less electricity. And she just overheated. For southern regions You probably need to put some foil on it. It will be more effective. Moreover, productivity will most likely increase: radiation reflected by the foil will also be captured.
After the paint has dried, you can lay the assembled paths. But this time face up. How to attach them? Place a drop of heat-resistant sealant in the middle of each plate. Why not apply it over the entire surface? Due to thermal expansion, the plate will change dimensions. If you glue it only in the middle, nothing will happen to it. If there are at least two points, it will burst sooner or later. Therefore, carefully apply a drop in the middle and gently press the plate. Don't press - it's very easy to crush.
In some cases, the plates were first attached to a base - a sheet of fiberboard painted the same white color. And then they were fixed to the body with screws on the base.
After all the rulers are laid, connect them in series. To prevent the conductors from dangling, they can be fixed with a few drops of sealant. You can remove the wires from the elements through the bottom or through the side - whichever is more convenient. Pull them through the hole, and then fill the hole with the same sealant. Now you need to let all the connections dry. If you cover too soon, a deposit will form on the glass and photocells, which will greatly reduce the battery's efficiency. Therefore, we wait at least a day (or as long as indicated on the sealant packaging).
Now all that’s left to do is cover everything with glass or transparent plastic. How to attach it is up to you. But don't seal it at first. At least until the test. There may be a problem somewhere.
And one more nuance. If you plan to connect batteries to the system, you will need to install a diode that will prevent the battery from discharging through the battery at night or in bad weather. It is best to install a Schottky diode. I connect it to the battery in series. It is better to install it inside the structure - when high temperatures its voltage drop decreases, i.e. in working condition it will reduce the voltage less.
How to solder elements for a solar battery
A little about handling silicon wafers. They are very, very fragile and easily crack and break. Therefore, you need to handle them with extreme caution and store them in hard containers away from children.
You need to work on a flat, hard surface. If the table is covered with oilcloth, place a sheet of something hard. The plate should not bend, but its entire surface should rest firmly on the base. Moreover, the base must be smooth. Experience shows that the ideal option is a piece of laminate. It is hard, even, smooth. They solder on the back side, not on the front.
For soldering, you can use flux or rosin, or any of the compounds in the soldering marker. Everyone here has their own preferences. But it is desirable that the composition does not leave traces on the matrix.
Place the silicon wafer face up (face is the blue side). It has two or three tracks. You coat them with flux or a marker, an alcohol (not aqueous-alcohol) solution of rosin. Photoconverters usually come with a thin contact tape. Sometimes it is cut into pieces, sometimes it comes in a reel. If the tape is wound on a reel, you need to cut a piece equal to twice the width of the solar cell plus 1 cm.
Solder the cut piece onto the flux-treated strip. The tape turns out to be much longer than the record; the rest remains on one side. Try to hold the soldering iron without lifting it off. As much as possible. For better soldering, you should have a drop of solder or tin at the tip of the tip. Then the soldering will be of high quality. There should be no unsoldered areas; warm everything up well. But don't push! Especially around the edges. These are very fragile products. Solder the tapes to all tracks one by one. Photoconverters turn out to be “tailed”.
Now, actually, about how to assemble a solar battery with your own hands. Let's start assembling the line. There are also tracks on the back of the record. Now we solder the “tail” from the top plate to the bottom one. The technology is the same: we coat the track with flux, then solder it. So we connect in series required quantity photoelectric converters.
In some versions, on the back side there are not tracks, but platforms. Then there is less soldering, but there may be more quality complaints. In this case, we coat only the areas with flux. And we also solder only on them. That's all, actually. The assembled tracks can be transferred to the base or body. But there are many more tricks.
So, for example, a certain distance (4-5 mm) must be maintained between photocells, which is not so easy without clamps. The slightest misalignment, and there is a possibility of breaking the conductor or breaking the plate. Therefore, to set a certain step, construction crosses are glued onto a piece of laminate (used when laying tiles), or markings are made.
All the problems that arise when making solar panels with your own hands are related to soldering. Therefore, before sealing, and better yet, before transferring the ruler to the case, check the assembly with an ammeter. If everything is fine, you can continue working.
Results
Now you know how to make a solar battery at home. The matter is not the most difficult, but it requires painstaking work.
Hydrocarbons have been and remain the main source of energy, but increasingly humanity is turning to renewable and environmentally friendly resources. This has caused increased interest in solar panels and generators.
However, many do not dare to install a solar system due to the high cost of developing the complex. You can make your products cheaper if you start creating them yourself. Do you doubt your own abilities?
We will tell you how to make a solar battery with your own hands using available components. In the article you will find all necessary information in order to calculate the solar system, select the components of the complex, assemble and install the photopanel.
According to statistics, an adult uses about a dozen various devices, operating from the network. Although electricity is considered a relatively environmentally friendly source of energy, this is an illusion because its production uses polluting resources.
What components are needed and where to buy them
The main part is a solar photopanel. Typically, silicon wafers are purchased online and delivered from China or the USA. This is due to the high price of domestically produced components.
The cost of domestic plates is so high that it is more profitable to order on eBay. As for defects, out of 100 plates only 2-4 are unusable. If you order Chinese plates, the risks are higher, because... the quality leaves much to be desired. The only advantage is the price.
A ready-made panel is much more convenient to use, but also three times more expensive, so it’s better to look for components and assemble the device yourself
The remaining components can be purchased at any electrical goods store. You will also need tin solder, frame, glass, film, tape and a marking pencil.
Image gallery
Posted by Admin 1193 days ago
How to assemble a solar battery with your own hands
IN last years The issue of energy saving is becoming increasingly acute. Many people are starting to think about how to save energy using a variety of energy-saving technologies. Recently, more and more people have become interested in the use of solar energy at home, who come to the conclusion that it would be better to install solar panels once, and then get significant savings on their budget. This is relevant in the context of constantly rising energy prices both in Russia and around the world. You can save even more if you figure out how to assemble a solar battery with your own hands. Main feature collection of solar panels will ensure the availability of components and minimal financial investments.
Selecting elements for panels
The great advantage of a self-assembled solar system is that you do not need to install the entire system at once. complex system, the power can be gradually increased. If the collection experience is successful, then you can continue working and increase the volume.
A solar battery is a local generator that operates by converting solar energy into electrical energy using a photovoltaic cell. In order to assemble it with your own hands, you need to select solar modules on the open market. For example, on Ebay you can buy a SolarCells kit, consisting of 36 solar cells, which is specifically designed for self-assembly of the battery. Similar sets can be purchased in Russia.
We are developing a project
The development of the project will depend on where you will place the solar battery and the installation option. Such batteries must be installed at an angle that ensures that the sun's rays hit the photocells at right angles. Don't forget that the performance of a solar panel depends entirely on the light intensity. They need to be installed on the sunny side of the building. Depending on the location of the object, as well as the flow of solar energy in each region, the angle of inclination for the solar panel is calculated.
It is worth drawing your attention to the fact that at the time of designing a system that is supposed to be installed on the roof of a building, it is necessary to identify or calculate in advance bearing capacity roofs. The roof must fully withstand the applied load, and also provide a margin of safety.
We make a frame
Before making a solar battery, you need to purchase solar cells (36 pieces). According to calculations, one element produces 0.5 Volts of energy, that is, if there are 36 elements, 18 Volts can be obtained.
There is a huge selection of plates on the market that have various sizes, however, you need to remember the following when choosing them:
- All plates will produce the same level of stress regardless of their size;
- Large plates produce more current;
- By using larger plates you can get more energy, but be aware of the weight of larger panels;
- It is not recommended to use plates of different sizes in one structural system.
An aluminum corner is used for the frame in the manufacture of solar panels, but you can also buy ready-made frames designed for this purpose. The transparent coating should be chosen according to your wishes, but taking into account the refractive index of light. The most affordable material will be plexiglass, and the least suitable material in terms of its characteristics is ordinary polycarbonate. The best materials for making panels will be materials that have high level light transmission. If you use plexiglass, then during operation you can monitor the contacts in the system.
Installation of the solar battery housing
If we talk about the standard production of one solar battery, it involves the use of 36 photocells with 150x81 mm plates. When calculating dimensions, you need to take into account the presence of gaps between elements of 3-5 mm, which will be necessary when changing the dimensions of the frame under the influence of atmospheric phenomena. The dimensions of the workpiece with the tolerances taken into account will be 690x835 mm and the width of the corner in the frame will be 35 mm. Solar battery that will be made using aluminum profile will be similar to a factory-produced panel and will provide a high level of tightness, strength and rigidity.
To begin with, you need to make blanks from an aluminum corner - frames measuring 690x835 mm. To further fasten the screws, you need to make holes in the resulting frame. Then by inner surface corners should be applied without gaps silicone sealant. This is quite an important point, because... There should be no places that are not filled with silicone. In the resulting frame you need to put a transparent sheet of plexiglass, special polycarbonate or anti-reflective glass.
Please note that the silicone must be allowed to dry, otherwise evaporation will create excess film on the photocells.
The laid glass must be carefully pressed against the frame and secured. For good fixation, fasteners must be made around the entire perimeter of the frame. That's it, the frame of the solar battery is almost complete.
Selecting and soldering elements
Also on the same Ebay or other similar store you can purchase solar cells that have already soldered conductors. Be sure to evaluate your abilities, because... Soldering contacts in such a design is a rather complicated process. Responsibility is further increased due to the fragility of the elements.
If you still decide to solder the elements yourself, then first you need to cut the conductors using a cardboard blank and carefully lay them out on the photocell. Then you need to apply acid and solder to the soldering points. For more convenient work, press the conductor heavy object. Next, you should carefully solder the conductor to the photocell, but do not pinch the fragile crystals. According to the specified standards, the silver coating on the conductor must withstand three solderings.
Assembling solar battery elements
When making the first assembly, it is best to use a marked backing, which will help place the elements evenly relative to each other. The base is made of plywood; be sure to mark the corners of the structure. After soldering to the battery cells, you need to attach a piece of mounting tape to the back side and transfer them in a similar way. Only the connecting parts need to be sealed.
Next, the elements need to be laid out on the glass surface. Do not forget to leave space between the elements and press them with a weight. Solder according to the attached electrical diagram. The positive tracks should be placed on the front side, and the negative ones on the back. Solder all silver contacts. Connect all photocells using this principle. On the extreme elements of the panel, the contacts need to be connected to the plus and minus bus. It is recommended to create a “middle” point - using two additional bypass diodes. The terminal is installed on the outside of the frame. For output wires you can use acoustic cable in isolation. After soldering, all wires must be secured with silicone. After assembly, solar panels have the quality of contact soldering as the main problem. That is why experts recommend testing before sealing, which must be performed in each group of elements when soldering is carried out.
If the entire system is properly designed, it will ensure sufficient battery power. When calculating the entire structure, it should be taken into account that during the manufacture of one solar battery it is necessary to use only solar modules of the same size, because in the system, the maximum current is limited by the current of the smallest element.
Standard calculations make it clear that on a fairly sunny day, approximately 120 W of power is obtained from one meter of panel. Naturally, such power will not even allow you to work on a computer, but panels of 10 meters will already provide 1 kW of energy, which will give you the opportunity to provide energy for the main appliances in the house. On average, a family requires approximately 300 kW per month, so a system that is optimally installed on the south side with dimensions of 20 meters will provide the family’s electricity needs. To optimize the use of electricity in lighting, it is recommended to use AC LED or fluorescent light bulbs. How to choose similar light bulbs, for example for stretch ceiling can be read here.
Solar panels are becoming increasingly popular as an alternative power source. However, in our conditions, their price is often too high, so using everyone available materials And necessary instructions You can assemble a solar battery with your own hands.
How to assemble a solar battery with your own hands
How to assemble a solar battery with your own hands In recent years, the issue of energy saving has become increasingly acute. Many people are starting to think
DIY solar panel
Why pay a ton of money (or any money at all) for a program that shows you how to make a solar panel when you can get the same thing for free?
I have watched my energy bills rise year after year simply because modern appliances are constantly left on standby. And this not only harms the environment, but also harms my bank account, because I am essentially paying for “nothing.” I could not constantly turn off devices from the network, as this made them difficult to use and took up unnecessary time for constant settings. Gradually, I began to look for renewable energy sources to offset my unnecessary expenses. Wind power was not an option, I live in a very quiet area with no wind. Hydroelectric power is also not suitable, since I live on a plain with virtually no rivers. Therefore, solar energy seemed like the best choice for me.
– 6A blocking diode
– 24 m of ribbon wire 2 mm wide
– 2 m of ribbon wire 5 mm wide
– 1 m of heat shrink tube
– 100% silicone sealant
– crosses for tiles
– 2 aluminum corners
I soldered the solar cells according to the wiring diagram in groups. This summed the voltage of all cells to achieve the desired output (the maximum possible). I made a panel of 28 cells (4 rows of 7 elements). In this arrangement and size the panel fit perfectly into the space in my garden. As a result, I received 28x0.5V=14V (in theory). I still didn’t know the current strength because I bought inexpensive class B elements for this experiment (I just saved).
On the back of the panel I made a mounting box with a terminal block. On one side of the block there is a +, and on the other side there will be a wire to the inverter. Also in the circuit box there is a diode between the + from the panel to the + going to the inverter, this prevents the flow of electricity to the panel when the panel is not producing any electricity (eg. dark time days).
I contacted the solar panel seller to order a suitable inverter. I need a small inverter (I'm going to produce a small amount of electricity with my system). I took an OK-4 inverter, designed for 24 - 50 V, maximum 100 W. It was the smallest inverter. It turns out that one panel will not be enough, because it produces a maximum of 14V. I needed a second panel and that would give me a total of 28V, which would be enough for the inverter. Considering that this is not a strong current, then two panels might not be enough. And I made the third panel, which achieved consistently high performance.
My OK-4 inverter did not have a built-in display to show output, so I needed a separate meter.
The current can be increased by changing the angle of the panels more towards the sun, but this is not currently possible in the area where I have placed them.
On average, the panels produce 500 watts per week, assuming everything is operating under normal conditions. Now critics will say that this is nothing at all, but considering that the panels can give more if I change the angle/location, and the fact that my panels are smaller than standard ones plus it's only 3 panels, the numbers don't seem that small. My goal was to compensate for the energy wasted on household appliances running in standby mode. And in this I succeeded. Without considering the reliability of the design (it takes longer to test), I can say that a homemade solar system works as well as those you can buy in a store.
In the future, I plan to test the panels for durability, since I do not yet know how they will behave in the long term, given the variety of weather conditions in which they will have to function.
And of course, I will share all the knowledge gained with readers so that everyone can repeat this at home.
DIY solar panel
Why pay a ton of money (or any money at all) for a program that shows you how to make a solar panel when you can get the same thing for free? I'll tell you how to make sol
How to make a solar battery yourself: step-by-step instructions
The desire to make the energy supply system of a private home more efficient, economical and environmentally friendly makes us look for new energy sources. One way to modernize is to install solar panels that can convert the sun's energy into electrical current. There is an excellent alternative to expensive equipment - a do-it-yourself solar battery, which will allow you to save money every month from family budget. Today we will talk about how to build such a thing. We will identify all the pitfalls and tell you how to get around them.
Development of a solar energy system project
Design is necessary for more successful placement of panels on the roof of the house. The more sunlight that hits the surface of the batteries and the higher their intensity, the more energy they will produce. For installation you will need the south side of the roof. Ideally, the beams should fall at an angle of 90 degrees, so it is necessary to determine in which position the operation of the modules will bring more benefit.
The fact is that a homemade solar battery, unlike a factory one, does not have special motion sensors and concentrators. To change the angle of inclination, it is possible to manufacture a mechanism on manual control. It will allow you to install modules almost vertically in winter period, when the sun is low on the horizon, and lower them in the summer, when the solstice reaches its peak. The vertical winter arrangement also has protective function: it prevents snow and ice from accumulating on the panels, thereby extending the life of the modules.
Energy efficiency modular design can be increased if you create a simple control mechanism that will allow you to change the angle of the battery depending on the time of year and even time of day
May require reinforcement before installing batteries roofing structure, since a set of several panels has a fairly large mass. It is necessary to calculate the load on the roof, taking into account the weight of not only the solar panels, but also the snow layer. The weight of the system largely depends on the materials used in its manufacture.
The number of panels and their size are calculated based on the required power. For example, 1 m² of module produces approximately 120 W, which is not enough even for full lighting of residential premises. Approximately 1 kW of energy with 10 m² of panels will allow the operation lighting fixtures, TV and computer. Respectively, solar design with an area of 20 m² will meet the needs of a family of 3 people. Approximately these dimensions should be calculated if a private house intended for permanent residence.
The manufacture of a solar battery does not necessarily end with the initial assembly; in the future, the elements can be expanded, thereby increasing the efficiency of the equipment
Module options for self-assembly
The main purpose of a solar panel is to generate energy from the sun's rays and convert it into electricity. The resulting electric current is a stream of free electrons released by light waves. For self-assembly, the best option is mono- and polycrystalline converters, since analogues of another type - amorphous - reduce their power by 20-40% during the first two years.
Standard monocrystalline cells measure 3 x 6 inches and have a rather fragile structure, so they must be handled with extreme care and precision
Different types of silicon wafers have their pros and cons. For example, polycrystalline modules have a rather low efficiency - up to 9%, while the efficiency of monocrystalline wafers reaches 13%. The former maintain their power levels even in cloudy weather, but last an average of 10 years, the power of the latter drops sharply on cloudy days, but they function perfectly for 25 years.
A homemade device must be functional and reliable, so it is better to purchase some parts from finished form. Before making a custom solar panel, take a look at eBay, where you can find a huge selection of modules with minor defects. Slight damage does not affect the quality of work, but significantly reduces the cost of the panels. Let's say a monocrystalline Solar Cells module located on a fiberglass board costs a little more than $15, and a polycrystalline set of 72 pieces costs about $90.
Best ready-made option solar cell - a panel with conductors that require only a series connection. Modules without conductors are cheaper, but increase battery assembly time several times
Instructions for making a solar battery
There are many options for self-assembly of solar panels. The technology depends on the number of solar cells purchased in advance and additional materials required to make the housing. It is important to remember: the larger the total area of the panels, the more powerful equipment, but at the same time the weight of the structure also increases. It is recommended to use identical modules in one battery, since the current equivalence is equal to the indicators of the smaller of the elements.
Assembling a modular frame
The design of the modules, as well as their dimensions, can be arbitrary, so instead of numbers, you should rely on the photo and choose any individual option suitable for specific calculations.
The cheapest solar cells are panels without conductors. To make them ready for battery assembly, the conductors must first be soldered, which is a long and painstaking process.
To manufacture the housing inside which the solar cells will be fixed, it is necessary to prepare the following material and tools:
- sheets of plywood of the selected size;
- low slats for sides;
- universal glue or for wood;
- corners and screws for fastening;
- drill;
- Fiberboard boards;
- pieces of plexiglass;
- dye.
We take a piece of plywood that will act as a base, and glue low sides around the perimeter. The slats along the edges of the sheet should not block the solar cells, so make sure that their height does not exceed ¾ inches. For reliability, each glued rail is additionally screwed with self-tapping screws, and the corners can be fastened with metal corners.
Wooden frame is the most affordable option for placement of solar cells. It can be replaced with a frame made from an aluminum corner or a purchased frame + glass set
For ventilation, we drill holes in the bottom of the case and along the sides. There should be no holes in the lid, as this could result in moisture getting in. The elements will be fastened to fiberboard sheets, which can be replaced with any similar material, the main condition is that it should not conduct electric current.
Small holes for ventilation must be drilled throughout the entire area of the substrate, including the sides and the middle rail. It will allow you to regulate the level of moisture and pressure inside the frame
We cut out the cover from plexiglass, adjusting it to the dimensions of the body. Regular glass is too fragile to be placed on a roof. For guard wooden parts We use a special impregnation or paint, which should be used to treat the frame and substrate on all sides. It would be nice if the shade of the frame paint matches the color of the roofing.
Painting serves not so much an aesthetic function as a protective one. Each part should be coated with at least 2-3 layers of paint so that the wood does not become warped in the future. humid air or overheating
Installation of solar cells
We lay out all solar modules in even rows on the substrate reverse side up to solder the conductors. To work you will need a soldering iron and solder. Soldering areas must first be treated with a special pencil. To begin with, you can practice on two elements, connecting them in series. We also connect all the elements on the substrate sequentially, in a chain, and the result should be a “snake”.
We install each element strictly according to the markings and make sure that the conductors of neighboring elements intersect at the soldering points
Having connected all the elements, carefully turn them face up. If there are many modules, you will have to invite helpers, since it is quite difficult for one person to turn the soldered elements without damaging them. But before that, we coat the modules with glue to secure them firmly to the panel. It is better to use silicone sealant as glue, and it should be applied strictly in the center of the element, at one point, and not along the edges. This is necessary to protect the plates from breakage if a slight deformation of the base suddenly occurs. A sheet of plywood can bend or swell due to changes in humidity, and the stably glued elements will simply crack and fail.
Having secured the modules to the substrate, you can test run the panel and check the functionality. Then we place the base in the finished frame and fix it along the edges with screws. To prevent the battery from discharging through the solar panel, we install a blocking diode on the panel, securing it with sealant.
To connect chains you can use copper wire or cable braid, which fix each element on both sides and are then secured with sealant
Trial testing helps make preliminary calculations. In this case, they turned out to be correct - in the sun without load, the battery produces 18.88 V
We cover the installed elements on top with a protective plexiglass screen. Before fixing it, we again check the functionality of the structure. By the way, you can test modules during the entire installation and soldering process, in groups of several pieces. We make sure that the sealant dries completely, since its fumes can cover the plexiglass with an opaque film. We equip the output wire with a two-pin connector so that the controller can be used in the future.
One panel is assembled and completely ready for use. All equipment, including items purchased online, cost $105
Photovoltaic systems of a private house
Electrical home energy supply systems using solar cells can be divided into 3 types:
If the house is connected to the central power grid, then the best option would be mixed system: During the day, power is supplied from solar panels, and at night - from batteries. The central network in this case is a reserve. When it is not possible to connect to the central power supply, it is replaced with fuel generators - gasoline or diesel.
The controller is needed to prevent short circuit at the moment of maximum load, the battery is for storing energy, the inverter is for distributing and supplying it to the consumer
When choosing the most good option The time of day at which maximum energy consumption occurs should be taken into account. In private homes, the peak period falls in the evening, when the sun has already set, so it would be logical to use either a connection to the public network, or additional use generators, since solar energy supply occurs during the daytime.
Photovoltaic power supply systems use networks with both direct and alternating current, and the second option is suitable for placing devices at a distance of more than 15 m
For summer residents, whose operating hours often coincide with daylight hours, a solar energy-saving system is suitable, which begins to function at sunrise and ends in the evening.
DIY solar battery: how to make a homemade panel
How to develop a project and select elements for a solar battery. Instructions for assembling an energy-efficient structure. Photovoltaic systems for home
How to make a solar battery with your own hands
Providing comfortable living conditions in modern apartments and private houses cannot do without electrical energy, the need for which is constantly increasing. However, prices for this energy carrier are increasing with sufficient regularity. Accordingly, the overall cost of maintaining housing increases. Therefore, a do-it-yourself solar battery for a private home, along with others, is becoming increasingly relevant alternative sources electricity. This method makes it possible to make an object energy independent in conditions of constant rising prices and power outages.
Efficiency of solar panels
The problem of autonomous power supply to devices and equipment in private homes has been considered for a long time. One of the alternative power options is solar energy, which modern conditions has found wide application in practice. The only factor that causes doubts and controversy is the efficiency of solar panels, which does not always live up to expectations.
The performance of solar panels directly depends on the amount of solar energy. Thus, batteries will be most effective in regions where sunny days prevail. Even in ideal Battery efficiency is only 40%, and in real conditions this figure is much lower. Another condition for normal operation is the presence of significant areas for the installation of autonomous solar systems. If this is not a serious problem for a country house, then apartment owners have to solve many additional technical problems.
Design and principle of operation
The operation of solar panels is based on the ability of photocells to convert solar energy into electrical energy. All together they are collected in the form of a multi-cell field, united in common system. The action of solar energy turns each cell into a source of electric current, which is collected and stored in batteries. The dimensions of the total area of such a field directly affect the power of the entire device. That is, with an increase in the number of photocells, the amount of generated electricity also increases accordingly.
This does not mean that the required amount of electricity can only be generated over very large areas. There are many small household appliances that use solar energy - calculators, flashlights and other devices.
In modern country houses, solar-powered lighting devices are becoming increasingly popular. With the help of these simple and economical devices, garden paths, terraces and other necessary places are illuminated. At night, the electricity stored during the day when the sun is shining is used. The use of energy-saving lamps allows you to consume accumulated electricity over a long period of time. Solving the main problems of energy supply is carried out with the help of other, more powerful systems that allow generating a sufficient amount of electricity.
Main types of solar panels
Before you start making solar panels yourself, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with their main types in order to choose the most suitable option for yourself.
All solar energy converters are divided into film and silicon, in accordance with their structure and design features. The first option is represented by thin-film batteries, where the converters are made in the form of a film made using special technology. These structures are also known as polymer structures. They can be installed in any available place, however, they require a lot of space and have low coefficient useful action. Even average cloudiness can reduce the efficiency of film devices by 20%.
Silicon batteries come in three types:
- Monocrystalline. The design consists of numerous cells with built-in silicon converters. They are joined together and filled with silicone. They are easy to use, lightweight, flexible, and waterproof. But to ensure effective operation of such batteries, exposure to direct sunlight is required. Despite the relatively high efficiency - up to 22%, when cloudiness occurs, electricity generation can significantly decrease or stop completely.
- Polycrystalline. Compared to monocrystalline ones, they have more converters housed in cells. Their installation is made in different directions, which significantly increases operating efficiency even in low light. These batteries are most widespread, especially in urban environments.
- Amorphous. They have low efficiency - only 6%. However, they are considered very promising due to their ability to absorb light flux many times greater than that of the first two types.
All types of solar panels considered are manufactured in factories, so their price remains very high. In this regard, you can try to make a solar battery yourself, using inexpensive materials.
Selection of materials and parts for the manufacture of a solar battery
Since the high cost of autonomous solar energy sources makes them inaccessible for widespread use, home craftsmen can try to organize the manufacture of solar panels with their own hands from scrap materials. It should be remembered that when making a battery it is impossible to make do with only available materials. You will definitely have to buy factory parts, even if they are not new.
A solar energy converter consists of several basic elements. First of all, this is the battery itself of a certain type, which has already been discussed above. Next comes the battery controller, which controls the charge level of the batteries with the resulting electrical current. The next element is batteries that store electricity. An inverter will be required to convert direct current into alternating current. So everyone is homemade Appliances, designed for 220 volts, will be able to work normally.
Each of these elements can be freely purchased on the electronics market. If you have certain theoretical knowledge and practical skills, then most of them can be collected independently using standard schemes, including the solar battery controller. In order to calculate the power of the converter, you need to know for what purpose it will be used. This can only be lighting or heating, as well as fully meeting the needs of the facility. In this regard, materials and components will be selected.
When making a solar battery with your own hands, you need to determine not only the power, but also the operating voltage of the network. The fact is that solar energy networks can operate on constant or alternating current. The latter option is considered more preferable, since it allows the distribution of electricity to consumers over a distance of over 15 meters. When using polycrystalline batteries, from one square meter you can get, on average, about 120 watts in one hour. That is, to obtain 300 kW per month, solar panels with a total area of 20 m2 will be required. This is exactly how much an ordinary family of 3-4 people spends.
In private homes and cottages, solar panels are used, each of which includes 36 elements. The power of one panel is about 65 W. In a small private house or country house, 15 panels capable of generating electrical power of up to 5 kW per hour are sufficient. After performing preliminary calculations, you can purchase conversion plates. It is allowed to purchase damaged cells with minor defects that only affect the appearance of the battery. In operating condition, each element is capable of delivering about 19 V.
Manufacturing of solar panels
After all materials and parts are prepared, you can begin assembling the converters. When soldering elements, it is necessary to provide a gap for expansion between them within 5 mm. Soldering should be done very carefully and carefully. For example, if the records have no wiring, they will need to be soldered manually. To work, you will need a 60-watt soldering iron, to which a regular 100-watt incandescent lamp is connected in series.
All plates are soldered in series to each other. The plates are characterized by increased fragility, so it is recommended to solder them using a frame. During desoldering, diodes are inserted into the circuit together with the photographic plates, protecting the photocells from discharge when the light level decreases or complete darkness sets in. For this purpose, the halves of the panel are combined in a common bus, which in turn is output to the terminal block, due to which a midpoint is created. The same diodes protect batteries from discharge at night.
One of the main conditions efficient work batteries is high-quality soldering of all points and components. Before installing the substrate, these places must be tested. To output current, it is recommended to use conductors with a small cross-section, for example, a speaker cable in silicone insulation. All wires are secured with sealant. After this, the material for the surface to which the plates will be attached is selected. Most suitable characteristics has glass that transmits light much better than carbonate or plexiglass.
When making a solar battery from improvised materials, you need to take care of the box. Usually the box is made of a wooden beam or an aluminum corner, after which glass is placed in it using sealant. The sealant should fill any imperfections and then dry completely. Due to this, dust will not get inside, and the photographic plates will not become dirty during operation.
Next, a sheet with soldered photocells is installed on the glass. It can be fixed different ways However, the best options are clear epoxy resin or sealant. The entire surface of the glass is evenly coated with epoxy resin, then the transducers are installed on it. When using sealant, fastening is carried out at points in the center of each element. At the end of the assembly, you should get a sealed case, inside of which the solar battery is placed. Finished device will produce approximately 18-19 volts, which is quite enough to charge a 12 volt battery.
Possibility of home heating
After a homemade solar battery is assembled, every owner will probably want to test it in action. Heating the house is considered the most important problem, so the first thing to check is the possibility of heating using solar energy.
Solar collectors are used for heating. With the help of a vacuum collector, sunlight is converted into heat. Thin glass tubes are filled with liquid, which is heated by the sun and transfers heat to water placed in a storage tank. In our case, this method is not suitable, since we are talking exclusively about converting solar energy into electrical energy.
It all depends on the power of the device used. In any case, it will take most of received energy. If 100 liters of water are heated to 70-80 degrees, it will take about 4 hours. The electricity consumption of a water boiler with 2 kW heating elements will be 8 kW. When generating electricity 5 kW per hour, there will be no problems. However, when the battery area is less than 10 m2, heating a private house with their help becomes impossible.
DIY solar battery
When making a solar battery with your own hands from scrap materials, you need to determine not only the power, but also the operating voltage of the network. Manufacturing process from A to Z
A solar battery is several photocells assembled in one housing that supply electricity to the consumer. Photocells themselves are becoming more accessible every day, largely due to the fact that they are in good quality began to be produced in China.
Selecting photocells for a solar battery
- Polycrystal or single crystal. There is no clear answer; polycrystalline modules are cheaper, but they have lower energy efficiency. Most industrial manufacturers prefer polycrystalline solar cells. Neither of these are produced in Russia, so we make purchases on com or aliexpress.com.
- Dimension. There are sizes 6x6 (156 x 156 mm), 5x5 (127-127 mm), 6x2 (156 x 52 mm) inches. You should take the last ones. The fact is that all photocells are very thin and fragile, they break easily during installation, so it is more profitable to break a small photocell. Also, the smaller the size of one element, the easier it is to fill the battery area.
- Soldered contacts. Each plate will be connected in series with the others, so you will have to work a lot with the soldering iron. Soldered contacts to the panels greatly facilitate this work. It will be much easier to connect such contacts to a common bus. If there are no such contacts, you will have to solder them yourself.
Tools and materials
Materials:
- Aluminum corner 25x25;
- Bolts 5x10 mm – 8 pcs;
- Nuts 5 mm – 8 pcs;
- Glass 5-6 mm;
- Glue – sealant Sylgard 184;
- Adhesive-sealant Ceresit CS 15;
- Polycrystalline photocells;
- Flux marker (a mixture of rosin and alcohol);
- Silver tape for connection to photocells;
- Tire tape;
- Solder (you need thin solder, because excessive heating will damage the photocell);
- Polyurethane foam (foam rubber), 3 cm thick;
- Thick polyethylene film 10 microns.
Tool:
- File;
- Hacksaw for metal with blade 18;
- Drill, 5 and 6 mm drills;
- Open-end wrenches;
- Soldering iron;
Step-by-step photo instructions
It is described in as much detail as possible how to assemble a solar battery with your own hands from photocells on an aluminum frame.
File the corners on one edge on each side of the aluminum corner at 45 degrees.
Cut the corners with a hacksaw at 45 degrees. For convenience, you can use a miter box:
On each side of the corner you should have the following design:
Cut aluminum corner
We make staples to connect the corners:
We attach the corners with the cut corners to each other 
We place the corner perpendicularly and mark a cutting line on it 
You should get 4 connecting corners
On the sides of each resulting bracket we find the center and drill a hole with a diameter of 6 mm:
Finding the center of each side of the bracket 
Hole in bracket
We make markings through the hole in each bracket on the corner. To avoid confusion later, we mark each corner and each bracket with a number:
Marking holes “in place” 
We put numbers so as not to confuse them later
Drill holes in the corner with a 5 mm drill, it should look like this:
Holes in the corner
We assemble the frame using bolts and nuts:
Using sealant, glue the glass into the assembled frame:
Silicone should be used to treat the joints outside and inside.
Degrease the glass surface from the inside and lay out the photocells face down so that the contact bars are parallel: 
Connect the photocells together with tape, so they will not fall apart during further operations.
Connect the elements together according to the diagram:
Connection diagram of photocells in a battery
Assembling the sealing structure:
- Cut out a rectangle from a sheet of polyurethane foam, 1 cm smaller than the inside of the frame on each side;
- Solder the resulting rectangle into plastic film using tape or a soldering iron
The structure fits inside the frame:
Foam rubber is placed inside the frame
The frame along with the foam rubber is turned over and removed. All that remains are the photocells laid out and taped together:
Remove the aluminum frame 
Photocells on foam rubber
Sylgard 184 sealant is applied to the entire surface of the photocells with a brush and covered with a frame with glass on top:
Sealant on photocells 
Cover the photocells with a glass frame
We place the weight on the glass for several hours, during which time the air bubbles should be removed:
Bubbles go away in 2-3 hours
After 12 hours, remove the weight and tear off the foam. The battery is ready to connect!
Mistakes when assembling a solar battery with your own hands
Several typical mistakes made when self-assembly panels about which I would like to warn.
- Assembly on a frame made of wood or chipboard. A solar battery assembled with your own hands pays for itself only if it lasts for several years, so an unreliable timber structure is definitely not suitable for it, because It will swell and lose its shape in a year or two. The design is bulky and heavy, difficult to transport and carry.
- Careless storage of Sylgard 184. If you do not use up the entire jar of this glue, after use it should be transferred to a smaller container so that the residue does not come into contact with the air inside it. Otherwise, after six months of storage, all the glue may harden.
- Use of plexiglass. The battery is always in the sun (this is its essence), so it gets very hot. Plexiglas is very poor at removing heat from photocells. This reduces their effectiveness. Each degree above 25 °C reduces efficiency by 0.45%. But this is not the main disadvantage of plexiglass! At temperatures above 50 °C, it deforms in all planes, breaking the contacts inside the circuit, depressurizing the battery and rendering it unusable.
- Insufficient attention to insulating connections. When assembling solar panels for your home with your own hands, it is better to use special connectors (MC4) that connect several panels into a single network. The fact is that in the future they may have to be dismantled for repairs, turning in the other direction, replacing elements, etc. Twist the contacts tightly or use connection terminals for this purpose, which are designed for interior work– not the best option.
Comments:
Related Posts
Do solar panels for a private home pay off? 
How to choose a solar panel - overview of important parameters 
Real Application of Thin Film Solar Cells
