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How to insulate walls in a wooden house from the inside with your own hands. What insulation is better for the walls of a wooden house inside under the lining? How to insulate walls inside a wooden house

Insulation of a house has always been considered a mandatory stage of construction, and if not initially, then in the future it was envisaged additional work. After all, factors such as heat, humidity levels and ventilation must be taken into account.

But the method and technology of thermal insulation of a house are noticeably different from the methods of insulating a city apartment, and if the structure is made of logs, then it has its own secrets. Therefore, in order to properly insulate wooden house from the inside, you need to prepare thoroughly.

Where to begin?

Initially, you need to determine the type of wood from which the house is made, because there are heat-insulating species, and therefore costs can be reduced. The main thing is to identify the shortcomings and eliminate them, usually these are the appearance of cracks, improper filling of insulation, cracking of logs.

After identifying the shortcomings and determining the range of work, they begin to insulate the walls. In this case, the owners are faced with a choice of which side of the wall to insulate: internal or external. Internal insulation is simpler, although the external option has its advantages, sometimes the best way out from this situation - a combination of two methods.

The key to success is to correctly follow the technology of fastening the material and protect it from moisture. You can do the work yourself, because the process itself is not technically complex.

Thermal insulating materials

Internal insulation of a wooden house can be carried out with modern synthetic and natural materials. Basic requirements for insulation materials– this is resistance to fire and the presence of high thermal insulation properties.
Manufacturers offer wide choose heat-insulating materials, the most popular of which are:

• ecowool;
• mineral and stone wools;
• polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam;
• drywall;
• warm paints and plasters.

Coefficient of thermal conductivity

It should be noted that all insulation materials differ in thermal conductivity. Thus, the thermal conductivity coefficient of most mineral and stone wool, as well as soft materials made from natural fibers and ordinary polystyrene foam, varies in the range of 0.038 - 0.045 W/m⃰ °C.

The layer thickness can be from 50 to 200 mm, depending on the climatic parameters of the region and the main material of the walls.

For extruded polystyrene foam and polyurethane, this figure does not exceed 0.03 W/m⃰ °C, therefore, with comparable efficiency, the thickness of their layer is one and a half times less. But such materials do not “breathe” at all, which requires the installation of a powerful forced ventilation system.

Modern materials include ecowool. This material forms a solid thermal insulation layer, adjacent to the log, timber, it fills all the cracks, voids and completely prevents blowing.

In this case, it is possible to avoid additional caulking of the log house. Ecowool allows internal moisture to pass through capillaries inside the fibers, while no deterioration in thermal insulation properties is observed. The pores between the fibers remain dry, and condensation of water vapor does not appear on the structure of the house.

The lack of moisture in ecowool and the presence of mineral antiseptics prevent the appearance of mold and fungi in the insulation. Ecowool can be used when insulating the inside and outside of wooden walls together with vapor-proof materials. But the main thing is that the house’s ability to “breathe” is preserved.

Mineral wool

Insulation with mineral wool allows you to achieve high thermal insulation performance, but its installation is subject to increased requirements, the main thing of which is to prevent moisture from getting inside the insulation, which significantly reduces thermal insulation properties material.

Therefore, an additional layer of vapor barrier and waterproofing film, provide internal ventilation to remove excess moisture.

Insulation with foam boards and extruded polystyrene foam is less widespread. There are several reasons, the main one being increased fire safety requirements.

Among the advantages are the elasticity of the material, its lightness, good heat and sound insulation properties, and the small thickness of the slabs, which makes it possible to slightly reduce the space of the room during internal insulation. The main thing is that foam insulation technology is constantly improving, and the characteristics of the material are changing.

Creating a wireframe

When working with any type soft material, including with mineral wool, it is necessary to first create a frame around the entire perimeter of the walls, which will reliably hold the insulation. To create the sheathing, wood is most often used, but metal guides can also be used if the sheathing will then be carried out with heavy material, for example, plasterboard.

The sheathing consists of guides located vertically from floor to ceiling at a distance of 40–60 cm. Such stiffening ribs allow not only to securely fix the insulation, but also to cover it with clapboard or any other material.

First, the corner elements are installed. To do this, a strip is attached to the rib beam, the cross-section of which is most often 50x100 mm, at a right angle. After manufacturing, such elements are sewn to the corner of the wall after checking with a level. The entire frame is already marked from them, and stiffeners are attached.

Taking into account the possibility of moisture, all elements of the frame should be treated with antiseptics, as well as the walls of the house themselves.

Insulation protection

An important element of the insulated frame is special films that prevent moisture from entering the material. After installing the frame, a waterproofing film is stretched along the entire perimeter of the walls. Usually it is laid in horizontal plane, protecting the joints with special waterproofing tape. Such a film will serve effective protection for insulation, because getting the material wet significantly increases its thermal conductivity.

It is equally important to protect the heat insulator from internal moisture. This type of wall covering almost completely removes natural ventilation, therefore, condensation may form at the boundary of the insulation, which can harm the material. To avoid negative influence internal humidity, the insulation is covered with a vapor barrier, which additionally protects all residents of the house from mineral wool particles.

Warm plaster application technology

Most affordable way insulating the house with your own hands. The work is carried out using the technology below.

Initially, the surface is prepared - removed old layer plaster, and a reinforcement frame is fixed directly to the walls, which will serve as the basis for a new layer. They are additionally attached to the frame metal mesh size 50x50 mm. Now you can begin plastering the surface, which is carried out in three stages.

The first is spraying, when a solution is thrown onto the surface of the walls, it is important to fill all the cracks and voids with it. Next, the surface is primed and the walls are leveled. The final layer is a covering, which consists of the following: sand sifted through a sieve produces a final finish.

In-wall insulation

Wooden walls are insulated not only from the inside, but also using the method of intra-wall insulation. Internal insulation of the house is then carried out according to special technology. To do this, use moisture-resistant insulation that can withstand deformation well: flax batting, hemp and linen tow.

The method is applicable only at the initial stage of construction, when the insulation is laid in the intra-wall gap, or rather, between two walls.

12.06.2018

Wooden houses are usually insulated on the outside to protect the wood from moisture condensation and destruction. Sometimes thermal insulation is carried out on both sides, but in some situations it is necessary to focus on internal insulation alone. For example, if a mansion is a cultural heritage site, and according to the law, nothing can be changed in the design of the facade. The owner of a cottage made of rounded logs, for whom the authenticity of the house is the basis, can come to the same decision landscape design plot. In any case, using modern materials, you can insulate a wooden house from the inside without endangering the external walls. To do this you need to select suitable insulation and follow all installation rules.

Preparatory stage

Before you begin directly laying the insulation, preparation is necessary. It will allow you to avoid many troubles in the future: condensation, getting wet or freezing of walls, the formation of cold bridges, the appearance of pests and mold inside the tree and on its surface. In addition, two other important points need to be taken into account.

• Any wooden structure shrinks. Due to drying of wood, logs or beams can change geometry, fitting closer to each other, or, conversely, forming gaps. Therefore, it is worth carrying out insulation 2–3 years after the construction of the house. This will save the heat-insulating layer and interior finishing from deformation.
• You still need to decide how much usable space you are ready to lose by insulating your house - this affects the choice of materials. For example, if the rooms are not spacious enough, you should pay attention to insulation such as PENOPLEX. It allows you to achieve high level thermal protection with minimal wall thickening.

Rules for carrying out insulation work

If the house is ready for thermal insulation, it’s time to take care of the preparation directly for the installation itself. You will need the following tools and materials:

• insulation for sealing cracks in walls: tow, jute, sealant;
• for laying natural sealants - a set of chisels, for synthetic ones - a spatula;
• fire-retardant composition for wood processing;
• roller, wide brush or spray bottle for applying fire and bioprotection;
• hydro- and vapor barrier films;
• foil tape;
• construction stapler;
• wooden blocks and slats for installing sheathing;
• self-tapping screws;
• insulation calculated based on the area of ​​the walls with a small margin;
• tool for cutting material;
• level and plumb line, tape measure, screwdriver, screwdriver, hammer.

Types and types of insulating materials

The insulation for the walls of a wooden house inside is subject to special requirements. strict requirements. Among them: low thermal conductivity, moisture resistance, health safety and durability. These qualities will allow you to preserve and increase the advantages of a wooden house, and protect the people living in it from the vagaries of nature. When choosing a material, focus on the one that best meets your priority requirements. Sometimes decisive factor may be the price or ease of installation.

For internal insulation wooden cottages are used the following types insulation:

• PENOPLEX (extruded polystyrene foam). It is manufactured in the form of slabs, convenient for installation. If ordinary polystyrene foam (foam) is short-lived, absorbs moisture, and can emit harmful substances and therefore not recommended for internal insulation, PENOPLEX does not have these disadvantages. Its safety for health is officially confirmed by a hygienic certificate. It has the lowest thermal conductivity of all the materials described, does not absorb moisture, and mold and mildew do not form on it. Its other advantages include good soundproofing qualities and lightness. Extruded polystyrene foam boards are strong and durable - they will last more than 50 years. When using it, the internal volumes of the room do not decrease as noticeably as when laying other heat insulators, because the plaster can be applied directly to PENOPLEX. In addition, the material is ideal for vertical installation- its compressive strength is at least 15 tons per square meter! This means that the insulation will not be subject to deformation or shrinkage during prolonged use.
• Mineral wool. Copes well with thermal insulation and is good for soundproofing structures. But this material easily absorbs moisture, losing its heat-protective functions, and also has low strength. Cannot be applied directly to it finishing, you will have to close it with a strong smooth material, for example, drywall. Taking this into account, as well as the thickness of the mats, such insulation will significantly reduce the volume of the room. During installation, attention should be paid to protecting the skin, eyes and respiratory tract, since small particles of mineral wool are hazardous to health.
• Ecowool. This material is a loose, homogeneous mass, which is either blown into an insulating cake using pneumatic equipment, or diluted in a special paste and applied according to the principle of plaster. The insulation is made from shredded waste paper, so it absorbs moisture and needs to be protected from it. Has a higher thermal conductivity index than PENOPLEX. And over time it shrinks.
• Polyurethane foam. This is a spray-on thermal protection. Requires mandatory cladding, which increases the cost of insulation. The material itself is very expensive in Russia, 2-3 (two - three)!!! times more expensive than other types of insulation. Requires work in protective equipment. In addition, special equipment is required for application. A very expensive insulation option.

Preparing the surface for insulation

Work begins with preparing the surface of the walls. Wood is a comfortable natural environment for the development of microorganisms. Therefore, before thermal insulation it needs to be treated bio protective compounds. Liquid bioprotection can be applied with a brush, roller or spray gun. After this, you need to wait until the applied composition dries completely.

IMPORTANT! As the house shrinks, gaps may appear between the logs, even if they were initially laid perfectly. In addition, the wood gradually dries out, causing cracks to form in it. To prevent heat from escaping through the seams and moisture from getting inside, you need to seal problem areas synthetic or natural sealant.

Natural fibrous materials, such as tow and jute, are laid into cracks and crevices, forming rollers from them. Using chisels, the fiber is driven into the hole. And the cracks are sealed using a method called “warm seam”.

• The protruding cushioning material laid between the logs or timber during the assembly of the log house is trimmed.
• A polymer seal is placed in the seam. It is available in the form of a tape (for small cracks) and a cord (for large gaps). Installation of sealant is required. In this case, the sealant applied on top of it will stick only to the logs or beams, without adhering to the filler itself. Thanks to this, the structure will be resistant to compression and stretching during further shrinkage of the wood.
• When all problem areas are filled, using mounting gun apply synthetic sealant. Use a spatula to smooth out the seam and remove excess sealing gel.

Ventilation and vapor barrier

Having closed all the cracks in external wall, it is possible to avoid heat loss. But a new problem appears: the air stops circulating, and the moisture has nowhere to go. To prevent it from accumulating and destroying the tree, you need to take care of two things: ventilation and vapor barrier.

The first of them is worth thinking about even at the stage of building a house. The best option- forced ventilation using supply and exhaust systems. If the budget does not provide for them, it is advisable to equip windows and doors with special slotted valves. Ventilation will save the room from the “greenhouse” effect, when high humidity accumulates in it during the cold season.

Protection of insulation from moisture is achieved in another way - using vapor barrier film. It is mounted indoors on top of the already glued heat insulator. Fixing it with a construction stapler, the vapor barrier is placed tightly, and at the joints it is laid with an overlap of 15 cm and then taped.

Note! Laying a vapor barrier is mandatory if hygroscopic materials are used as insulation: mineral wool, ecowool. When using PENOPLEX, this step can be skipped, since extruded polystyrene foam does not absorb moisture.

Do-it-yourself technology for insulating wooden walls inside a house

For different materials she is different. In this article we will look at the installation procedure for PENOPLEX. Laying can begin after the surface has been prepared and dried.

• Leaf or slab material It is more convenient to start mounting from below. And PENOPLEX is no exception. We fix horizontal bar as a beacon and begin work.
• On each slab we apply special adhesive PENOPLEX® FASTFIX® in strips - it does not change the properties of the insulation, which is important. This material is sensitive to certain substances in other adhesives.
• Then we attach the sheets to the wall in a checkerboard pattern.
• For greater reliability, we fix each of them with dowels in the corners.
• The joints can be filled with PENOPLEX® FASTFIX® adhesive foam. But since they have L-shaped grooves that fit tightly into each other, this point is not mandatory.

So, let's summarize. To obtain high-quality thermal insulation When resorting to spraying with polyurethane foam or blowing in ecowool, it is worth hiring specialists. Firstly, you will need professional equipment, secondly, it is difficult to calculate the density of the layer yourself, and make installation without gaps.

PENOPLEX, on the contrary, will not require the costs of attracting outside forces. No specific skills or tools are required to carry out the work. It is only important to follow all the recommendations and, of course, purchase original material from the manufacturer.

Insulation of walls in wooden house Of course, it needs to be done from the inside. After all, penetrating moisture contributes to the destruction of wood and not only does the structure become unusable, but as a result of this the room will be damp.

Today we will look at how to insulate walls in a wooden house from the inside. Also in the video in this article and photos you can see the entire process of completing the work clearly.

Preparation for main types of work

Insulation of the walls of a wooden house from the inside is done according to certain rules and in compliance with the required sequence. The quality of the work performed will depend on this.

Before starting work, it is necessary to take measurements and calculate the material. And also, it is necessary to make calculations for further choice insulating material, taking into account, among other things, its properties (see Material for insulating walls inside: characteristics). Do not forget that in such work, membranes are used (vapor insulating and waterproofing).

When calculating, it is established:

• Dew point output. This is one of the most important moments, with this type of work. Everything is explained very simply - how humid the room will ultimately be depends directly on this, even in cases of high-quality material and well-done work. Both the location of the membranes and their properties are taken into account (in different manufacturers they may differ), and of course the properties of the insulation (density, resistance to getting wet).
• Calculation of the total area of ​​the room, taking into account that it will decrease. It may not be a comparison (increase in slopes, and if there is a stove, the safe distance between the wall and the stove will change, which is unacceptable for fire safety).

Important: The need for work to establish the dew point is not discussed. This is an inseparable part that ultimately provides the meaning of the whole work. You need to understand that the humidity of the room depends on the location of the dew point, and humidity means rotting, smell, and, ultimately, premature disrepair.

Rules for performing insulation work

Do-it-yourself insulation of walls from the inside of a wooden house is done if there is quality materials. Preference should be given to trusted brands; you can save a little on Chinese material, but you will lose significantly in performance.

What you will need to carry out the work

Insulation of wooden walls from the inside is done with insulation, there are quite a lot of them. But you have to start from the structure itself and what you want to get in the end.

By definition, the insulation must meet the requirements:

1. Have low thermal conductivity;
2. Meet fire safety requirements;
3. Comply with environmental and chemical safety standards.

Attention: When choosing insulation, the density and heat transfer qualities are determined, taking into account the place of its application, weather and temperature conditions, as well as the condition of the building itself.

• The material used must not support combustion, release hazardous compounds into the air, or contain hazardous chemical elements. For interior work, the material is selected with special care, environmentally friendly and safe. This is important because - in a confined space, with constant contact, even a seemingly insignificant deviation from the norm can turn out to be dangerous, both for people and pets.

Types and types of insulating materials

When deciding which method to use, you first need to decide what material will be used. This is interconnected, since the method and method directly depend on the type of material.

From possible ways, used indoors – use:

Mineral wool	It comes in slabs and rolls of varying densities. In essence, there is almost no difference in application. Any of these materials suggests - closed type application, that is, after installation, it must be closed (finishing material in the form of slabs, sheets, boards and slats). This insulation does not burn, is non-toxic, and has low thermal conductivity. But it is afraid of moisture, which means it is necessary to use insulating membranes (insulating films).
Foam boards (expanded polystyrene)	It is not recommended to use it indoors in a residential area due to possible toxic emissions (hydrogen cyanide, styrene, etc.). It is possible to use extruded polystyrene foam, but such material is also designed for laying and subsequent closing.
Glass wool	Relatively inexpensive material, slightly higher thermal conductivity than mineral wool (you will need more thick layer). There is a special option for interior work, and with mandatory use films for covering. When working, it is also necessary to observe safety measures (protect the respiratory tract from fine particles, use protective equipment). After installation, it must be closed.
Isopleth	This material is environmentally friendly, it consists of flax fibers and wood shavings. It is a pressed slab with a thickness of 12-25 mm. Since this is a fairly rigid material, there is no need for a strong barrier (lating). Environmentally friendly, suitable for indoor use. The disadvantage is higher thermal conductivity, and the cost is higher than that of alternative materials.
Polyurethane foam	It is used using special equipment; it itself does not burn, but when high temperatures, toxic substances are released. It consists of 2 main components; when mixed, it transforms into foam, reminiscent of construction foam. It is sprayed in a small layer of 3-5 cm (the total area is slightly reduced), with the addition of “additives” it becomes water-repellent. The price of work increases significantly due to the use special installation. After spraying, it must be closed.

Now let's figure out how to insulate wooden walls from inside with practical point vision.

Sealing cracks, preparing the surface for insulation

From the moment the building is built, during its operation, the wood dries out, the house “shrinks,” and there is a constant movement of materials. As a result, cracks and cracks form that need to be sealed to stop heat loss.

• The joints between the logs (or beams) are caulked. This is done available material, or the same as what was done before (tow, jute, sealant). As a result, heat loss must be stopped.

In order to maintain warmth and comfort in the house, it is necessary to add a thermal insulation layer to the external walls. Particular attention is paid to buildings that have been in use for a long time and have survived many negative impacts. Therefore, many owners are interested in the issue of insulating an old wooden house.

A house made of wood has the ability to allow vapors to pass out, making it always comfortable to stay indoors. If you select wrong material for insulation, it is possible to completely close the loss of moisture, which will lead to its accumulation in the walls of the building. This will lead to premature destruction of the entire structure.

Mineral wool

Experts say that the best insulation Can't find one for an old wooden house. And indeed it is. has the following properties:

1. Excellent heat retention.
2. Isolates interior spaces from extraneous sounds from environment.
3. Light weight helps to do everything quickly and efficiently.
4. The structure of the material allows you to hide all the irregularities.
5. Fire and environmental safety.
6. Rodents do not use them to create nests.

But there are also a number of negative points:

• protection from moisture is necessary, therefore the mineral wool is covered with a vapor barrier membrane, on the one hand, and a windproof film, on the other;
• requires mechanical fixation.

But such shortcomings are easy to deal with, so this option is suitable for an old house or a new building.

Styrofoam

Insulation from the affordable class. Therefore it is in demand among everyone construction companies and private developers. Besides positive point, there are a number of others:

1. Good thermal insulation properties.
2. It is soundproofed.
3. Does not absorb moisture.
4. Withstands small mechanical loads.

But a small set of disadvantages makes polystyrene foam unsuitable for insulation village house from a log house:

• lack of vapor permeability;
• rapid destruction under the influence of ultraviolet radiation;
• rodents and insects love to create their homes in this material;
• polystyrene foam ignites easily and then smolders, releasing caustic substances.

Wood already burns well, and if the finishing is such that being in such a house will be life-threatening.

Penoplex (polystyrene)

This material is a close relative of polystyrene foam. But manufacturers have slightly improved the properties of the insulation, due to which the cost has also increased. What characteristics are inherent in penoplex?

1. Improved thermal insulation properties. If 10 cm thick foam plastic is needed to insulate a house, then you can replace 5 cm with polystyrene foam.
2. Withstands high mechanical stress.
3. Doesn't absorb moisture at all.
4. There are also soundproofing properties.
5. Penoplex is produced with the addition of fire retardants, substances that prevent the material from igniting under the influence of fire. Therefore, compared to polystyrene foam, penoplex is safer.

It is sometimes used as thermal insulation for wooden buildings. But it is only suitable for a plinth or foundation. This is due to the lack of vapor transmission capacity. As a result, condensation will form on the walls, which means it will contribute to the development of mold and mildew.

What is the best way to insulate?

A house with a long service life requires not only insulation of the facade, but also all structural elements as a whole. Such actions will help to more effectively retain heat inside the house. Therefore, we will consider all the elements separately:

Wall insulation

It is better to insulate the walls from the outside. This shifts the dew point towards the environment, allowing it to be removed from the substrate much faster. If you insulate the walls from the inside, you can cause a completely opposite result. In this case, the walls will still freeze.

To insulate the walls, we choose hard mineral wool mats. If you have the financial means, you can take the foil version. A layer of foil will reflect heat from the walls. Before installing the insulation, be sure to close all cracks.

In this case, we use a tourniquet, dry moss or tow. With this material we tightly seal the inter-crown space or cracks that may form on the logs.

Ceiling

You can insulate the ceiling in two ways:

• from the side of the room;
• from the attic side.

Both the first and second methods are effective. More rigid materials are laid on the ceiling. If there is an attic under the roof, then it is better to resort to insulation from the side of the rooms. Then a structure is created from beams, between which sheet insulation is placed. Don't forget about vapor barrier membranes.

When there is an attic under the roof, you can use mineral wool and even polystyrene foam. A more rigid material must be laid on top of the insulation. This can be chipboard slabs, which will protect the insulation from being pressed through.

There is an option when they use bulk insulation eg sawdust, gravel. But you need a lot of such materials, which can be even more expensive than using modern insulation.

Floor

The choice of insulation technology for a dilapidated house depends on whether there is basement or not. If there is a basement, then first insulate it. There may be no need to further insulate the floor after this.

But if such a need has already been determined, then choose the following options:

1. Laying heated floors ( electric heating). Not always suitable for old wooden structures, as it requires reliable electrical wiring.
2. Usage thermal insulation materials. Choose only hard options, but be sure to make a plank floor or cover chipboards or OSB, and then decorated with the selected flooring material.

It is in an old wooden house that large heat losses occur due to dilapidated floors. Therefore, you should not neglect the possibility of insulating floors. More precisely, start insulating the house from the floors.

How to insulate an old wooden house with your own hands?

The wood must be specially treated before starting any external work. Especially if the structure is closed from the eyes of the owner. Therefore, carefully and thoroughly adhere to the insulation technology if you do everything yourself.

And if you trust the masters, then do not forget to supervise the team. It often happens that workers want to complete the work earlier and are a little slack. This can lead to premature failure of the structure.

Surface preparation

First, let's prepare the base:

1. Clean all dirt and stains, traces of insects or fungus.
2. Remove old decorative coating.
3. Take off hanging structures which will interfere with all work.
4. Close all cracks.
5. Cover by wooden structure protective compounds. These are antiseptic impregnations or mastics and moisture-repellent compounds. This will significantly extend the service life of the base.

If the package says that it is advisable to make several layers, then it is better to do it as the manufacturer recommends. If you save at this stage, you may regret it later.

Laying a vapor barrier layer

After the impregnation has completely dried, begin laying the membranes. This layer will protect the walls from moisture and allow vapors to freely pass through the insulation and escape outside.

• begin laying from the bottom of the wall in vertical stripes;
• each subsequent strip overlaps the previous one by 10–15 cm;
• the joints are fixed with tape;
• the membrane itself is secured using a construction stapler.

Installation of sheathing

For the frame use wooden blocks or metal profiles. If selected wooden frame, then its parts also require special processing in order to last as long as the decorative layer. In addition, the bars will not be able to hide the unevenness of the walls, which means you will have to place pegs or cut them off in some places.

With metal everything is much simpler - we take it and install it. Special retractable brackets will easily hide all the shortcomings. But such a structure will cost a little more than a wooden one.

The method of installing the frame depends on whether insulation will be used or not, as well as on what kind of decorative material it was decided to install it on the facade.

The rough plan is:

• First we make the markings. The pitch between the elements is equal to the width of the insulation;
• screw the elements;
• We check how level the parts are installed using a building level.

Installation of heat insulator

The material, which acts as a heat insulator, is placed between the sheathing elements. The mats are laid tightly. At the same time, make sure that no gaps are formed. Mineral wool should not bristle.

If such flaws appear, they will subsequently become cold bridges, which will partially or completely eliminate insulation work. Therefore, the material should lie tightly, but evenly.

Laying windproof film

It is customary to lay on top of the insulation windproof membrane. This material will protect the mineral wool from penetration of atmospheric moisture under the finish. The installation principle is the same as for vapor barrier film:

1. Let's start working from the bottom.
2. We make vertical stripes.
3. We overlap them by 105-15 cm.
4. We seal the joints with tape.
5. The membrane is fixed with a stapler to the sheathing.

It is appropriate to use mushroom dowels here. This mechanical fastener will additionally secure the insulation and membrane.

Installation of lathing for fastening finishing materials outside

The additional sheathing also creates ventilation gap, which allows you to remove steam coming from interior spaces. The gap size can vary from 3 to 8 mm. It all depends on the thickness of the insulating material and the region in which the house is located.

Exterior wall decoration

As finishing material for a wooden house you can choose any known option. It is important to take into account the condition of the structure, that is, the strength of the structure. If the house is too old, do not choose heavy material, as the structure may not withstand the load and collapse.

• completely follow the installation instructions provided by the manufacturer;
• fix the parts to the sheathing elements;
• choose dry weather;
• insulate a wooden house only in warm time of the year.

Possible problems with insulation

Before insulating an old wooden house, be sure to check how strong the structure is. If necessary, the walls and foundation need to be strengthened. For those who have never dealt with such a thing, it is better to take care construction team, rather than start experiments.

And those who still decide to do everything themselves should strictly adhere to the instructions and not let anything slip out of sight. It is important to properly prepare the base, choose insulation and finishing.

Everything about insulating walls from the inside of a wooden house: what material is better to use, the need for internal insulation, preparation and lathing of walls, how to properly insulate the inside with mineral wool.

If you believe the experts, then external insulation of a wooden house is much more preferable than internal insulation. This is related to the concept of dew point.

The formation of condensation on the walls inside the building under the insulation will go deep into them, while on the outside it will not go beyond the hydro- or thermal insulation and will not reach the wood.

Insulating walls from the inside of a wooden house is only possible if other options are not acceptable for some reason.

The need for internal insulation

Before you decide on such interior finishing, you should consider what they may entail:

1. Disruption of the natural “breathing” of the walls, which will have to be restored by creating ventilation.
2. Changes in the microclimate in the rooms due to increased humidity.
3. Reducing the area of ​​each room.

If such compelling reasons are not a reason to change your mind, then it is worth looking positive sides internal insulation and focus on them:

1. The opportunity to insulate the walls of a wooden house from the inside with your own hands at any time of the year, devoting as much time to it as possible.
2. The beautiful appearance of the facade, especially if it is made of rounded logs, can be preserved in its original form.
3. Such work requires more easy installation that even a beginner can do.
4. Internal insulation of the walls of a wooden house is several times cheaper than external insulation.

Modern materials and technologies make it possible to produce construction and Finishing work of any complexity and at a very reasonable price. Before deciding to take any action, you should be thoroughly familiar with what materials are offered modern market and answer the question, what is the best way to insulate the walls of a wooden house inside.

Of course, the choice of material directly depends on the qualities that the building will require from it. If this frame house, then these will be some properties, and for a log house made of thick logs – others.

Today, insulation manufacturers offer the following types of materials:

All of the above materials have a place in modern construction market, but the choice remains with the consumer, which of them he will trust with the safety and warmth of his home.

Preparation and lathing of walls

As always, insulating walls in a wooden house from the inside (the video will tell you about this) begins with preparing the walls for work:

1. Even the most best wood When shrinking, it can form gaps at the joints. They should be sealed with sealant or other means.
2. As a preventive measure, it is imperative to carry out bio- and fire protection of the walls. Since thermal insulation is installed for years, this will save it in any unforeseen circumstances.

   To protect the house from rotting, when laying thermal insulation, it is imperative to create an air gap between it and the wall. This does not apply to walls made of rounded logs.

3. Caulking the walls is necessary if they are made of timber. Jute is well suited for this, as it is the cheapest material tested by many generations of builders.

In no case should you ignore the preparation of the walls, as this may affect the durability of the thermal insulation and its quality.

Owners should think not only about how to insulate the inside of the walls of a wooden house, but also how to do it. It is imperative to make a crate. It is because of it, first of all, that the area of ​​the room inside is reduced, but it also gives the entire structure the shape and necessary stability.

Used for lathing square beam with a cross section of 50 mm, and the pitch depends on the size of the insulation. It is important to install the bars so that the material fits tightly into the formed cells if it is mineral wool, or they are adjusted exactly to size for polystyrene foam boards.

Before installation, the bars must be treated with fire-fighting and antifungal agents. All structural elements are attached to the wall using screws.

After the lathing has been installed in each room, you can proceed directly to solving the question of how to insulate the walls inside a wooden house.

Insulation of walls from inside a wooden house

Minvata

As a rule, mineral wool in a roll or in the form of a “mat” is used to insulate walls from the inside. To cope with the first one, you will need 4 hands, while the second one can be handled independently.

Laying is carried out from floor to ceiling, maintaining tight joints so that the seams are not visible. If there are any gaps, they need to be sealed, and then proceed to laying the next layer of the “pie” - the vapor barrier layer. It is necessary rather to protect mineral wool from exposure external environment rooms than walls.

The vapor barrier should be overlapped using a stapler so that there are no seams, and if there are any, they should be immediately covered with tape.

After the work has been done, it is necessary to install another sheathing, but opposite to the first. It is on this that the finishing coating will be attached.

Foam plastic

This material can also be attached to the sheathing, but there is a simpler method that will not take up much living space. The prepared and treated wall must be coated with a layer of glue and sheets of foam plastic placed on it in dense rows.

After the adhesive base has completely dried, the slabs can be secured with nails, the gaps can be sealed and finishing can begin.

In conclusion, the following conclusions can be drawn:

1. Internal insulation is not advisable, but is acceptable if necessary.
2. There are materials suitable for this work.
3. Before you begin insulation, you need to properly prepare the walls.

If you lack knowledge about the composition of the material and the correct installation, you should consult with a specialist so that years later you will not regret wasted money. Yes, such a simple, at first glance, work like caulking walls requires skill and attention, and without creating ventilation, the “life” of the building can be significantly shortened. All this should be thought about before starting insulation. interior walls wooden house.