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Siding installation procedure. Attaching siding to the wall. Installation instructions. Installation of internal corner profile

Regular building materials materials such as brick or timber have proven effective in building construction for various purposes, but over time they also lose their attractiveness and integrity. In this regard, new technologies have been developed to protect the building and improve it appearance. That's why almost every modern builder knows how to attach siding to the outside of a house.

How to attach siding

Fastening materials are no less important than insulation and cladding. You will need:

• construction staples;
• universal direct hangers;
• load-bearing elements, depending on whether the cladding is attached to a metal profile or wooden slats;
• dowels;
• self-tapping screws;
• butyl tapes;
• insulation and siding itself.

During installation, you can use a regular screwdriver, but it will be easier to use a screwdriver. You will also need a hammer drill. Which screws to use depends on the wishes of the building owner. They can be steel, aluminum and galvanized. The best choice would be self-tapping screws with a corrosion-resistant coating.

When installing a structure made of soffit and insulation on penoplex, on aerated concrete or on brick wall, the easiest way is to use lathing. It is attached directly to the surface, creates space for the insulating material and carries the weight of the cladding.

The installation process on wooden slats includes the following steps:

• remove from the wall everything that may interfere - old plaster, fastenings for sewer pipes, etc. Damaged areas need to be repaired and leveled using tow or sealants;
• install the horizontal sheathing slats. The distance should correspond to the width of the sheets of insulating material, but not more than 60 cm. Subtract 2 cm from the resulting distance - this will ensure a tight fit of the thermal insulation;
• secure the insulation under the siding. Do not allow gaps to remain at the joints. Their presence worsens the quality of insulation and reduces the durability of the entire structure;
• attach an insulating membrane that provides the ability to remove condensation and provide wind protection for the insulating material;
• installation of counter lathing;
• install siding. Use 19 mm galvanized self-tapping screws for vinyl siding and 25 mm for the base.

Only by following all the points in these instructions can you create a reliable and durable coating that can withstand long term operation.

How to attach siding to a metal profile

The metal profile base provides a more reliable and durable fastening; this design can withstand the heavy weight of insulation and facing material. On a wooden house, the sheathing is attached to the wall using self-tapping screws, the type and length of which depends on the weight of the profile, siding and wall thickness. When working with a building made of brick or other similar materials, fastening is done with dowels.

Installation features:

• the pitch between the outer siding elements depends on their mass. As a rule, the manufacturer himself determines optimal distance. The standard distance between the planks is 40 cm, if you are using heavy metal siding, and the region in which construction is taking place is characterized by strong winds, the step can be reduced;
• fixation of the sheathing elements is carried out with metal hangers - thin plates of steel with zinc coating, in the body of which are made special holes. With their help you can adjust the distance between the wall and the profile. Before installation, the hangers are given the shape of the letter “P”. The distance between them corresponds to the step between the slats;
• When installing siding, side profiles are installed at the edges of the wall. These elements will become a guideline for further installation of profiles. To align, a string is stretched between them, the level of which determines the position of the transverse elements of the sheathing;
• for additional rigidity, you can use special jumpers made from the profiles themselves.

You can complicate the design, making it more reliable and durable, by adding additional supporting elements. One section of a zinc-coated profile with a cross-section of 27 by 28 mm is fixed to the wall with its wide part, the second acts as a spacer between the first profile and the main load-bearing strip.

Types of siding and their installation

The modern market of finishing materials offers various types of cladding for siding buildings. The choice depends on the operating conditions and features of the project, as well as on the load that will be exerted on the protective structure.

Installation of vinyl and basement siding

Vinyl siding is made from polymer materials resistant to impact environment and sunburn. Can be done in various colors solutions and in the form of simulation natural materials– stone, brick, etc. Mounting order:

The starting strip should be secured around the entire perimeter of the building being finished. It is important to ensure that it is secured as evenly as possible. For fixation, self-tapping screws are used, with the help of which the cladding element is attached to the sheathing every 25-30 centimeters. Make sure that the self-tapping screw is screwed in strictly perpendicularly, and that there is a gap of 1 mm between its head and the surface of the siding, which is approximately equal to the thickness of the coins.

When installing, the panels enter the starting strip with a characteristic click, indicating fixation. Each piece of siding must be aligned strictly parallel to the starting strip, so a level should be used during installation. The finishing element is fixed under the roof. So that the strip of facing material can be correctly inserted under the top panel, you need to bend it in an arc and bring it inside the structure.

This cladding gives the building a natural appearance, but must be treated before installation. wood panels antiseptic drugs. Applies only in dacha construction and on private houses. The material is environmentally friendly, provides the required level of thermal insulation, but is short-lived. Installation procedure:

Each lathing element is pre-treated with antiseptics and hydrophobic substances. Fastening to a wooden house can be done using nails 50 mm long in increments of no more than 40 cm;

Installation of metal siding

The panels for it are made of steel, galvanized or aluminum; they can also be decorated with imitation of materials of natural origin. Metal siding durable, resistant to mechanical damage and temperature changes, but it cannot be installed without a gap. Also, metal panels are more expensive than their analogues. Installation procedure:

When doing work, mark up in advance and type metal strips parallel to the starting line. The design is additionally equipped with drainage systems; when tightening bolts and screws, leave a gap so as not to scratch the metal, damaging the anti-corrosion coating.

All types of cladding can be combined with various insulating materials. Please note that only strict adherence to installation technology determines the effectiveness of the created structure.

Video: Siding - technology of work

Frequently Asked Questions

Besides standard technology installation, there are others that can reduce costs. However, without the required experience, it is difficult to say whether these options are more effective, and whether the desire to save money will result in premature destruction of the insulating structure. In this regard, questions arise:

• Can it be mounted directly on OSB? Walls are sometimes sheathed with compressed sheets, and there is often debate about whether to install siding on top without sheathing. Direct mount without ventilation gap reduces the durability of the structure by fixing the cladding on top uneven wall, you will get the same uneven surface. In general, this approach is allowed, but only if wood or polymer cladding is used;
• Can it be mounted directly on the wall? This is possible if the base is level and free of significant shortcomings. But the frameless installation method does not provide a gap for the formation and removal of condensate. This leads to rapid wear of the insulating material. It is also not allowed to attach metal siding to the wall.
• Can it be mounted vertically? Yes, but you need to take their features into account. The panels differ in their configuration. So, if you turn the horizontal ones in the vertical direction, this will lead to water flowing under the cladding, so you need to select materials according to the chosen technology. You will also need special edging, trims and frames for window and doorways.

In practice, installation without lathing is used quite rarely, since its presence increases the service life of the entire structure.

In order to quickly and with minimal costs To repair the façade of a building, we choose a material whose installation can be done without the involvement of specialists. This material is siding. Its varieties and how to work with it will be discussed further.

The choice of such material for wall cladding is supported by its positive characteristics.

1. Environmental safety: siding is chemically resistant and does not emit substances harmful to health and the environment.
2. Fire safety. Wood siding treated with fire retardants, vinyl does not support combustion.
3. Resistant to fungi, mold and rot. Antiseptic treatment increases the service life of wood siding.
4. Siding is not afraid of temperature changes and does not deform, provided correct execution installation
5. Aesthetic appeal: siding successfully imitates wooden frame. After cladding, the walls become perfectly smooth. You can hide behind the panels electrical cables, water pipes. A wide palette of colors and shades allows you to choose a material that matches other objects located in the garden area.

Manufacturers offer siding in various colors and sizes.

What is needed to cover walls with siding?

Distinguish the following types siding:

• vinyl;
• metal;
• fiber cement;
• wooden.

All of the listed materials are attached to the sheathing, mounted from wooden slats or a metal profile.

Advice: it is better to choose a metal profile for the lathing. It allows you to create a stronger and more durable frame. This profile is easier to mount to the wall.

If the choice of material for sheathing is wooden slats, it is necessary to exclude wood with the following defects:

• cyanosis;
• curvature;
• traces of damage by insects;
• rottenness;
• material delamination and cracks.

Before installation, wooden slats are treated with an antiseptic.

In order to hide all the unevenness of the base, the sheathing is attached at some distance from it, using hangers.

Installation of sheathing

Lathing made of metal profiles

The technology provides the following actions.

1. Let's prepare the base. It is necessary to dismantle the façade finishing elements that have become unusable: wooden shutters, platbands, falling off plaster and facing tiles. This is necessary so that the sheathing is attached to a solid base.
2. We apply markings to the base at the places where the vertical sheathing elements are attached.
3. The hangers are attached to the base using dowel-nails or self-tapping screws (selected depending on the base material).
4. Installation of vertical guides after marking. Vertical wooden slats or metal profiles. We install the lathing with an installation step of 0.5 m.

Scheme of lathing from wooden slats

Guides are installed subject to the rules.

1. Installation begins from the corner - on both sides at a distance of 50-70 mm. This is necessary for installation corner profile.
2. The position of the guides is controlled by a level: it must be strictly vertical. Small (up to 3-5 degrees) deviations to the sides are allowed.
3. A guide is also installed near the corners of window and door openings, as well as arches and niches.
4. We additionally install guides for gutters.

Fastening the rail to hangers

Here's a video about how walls are insulated.

Installing a starting profile for siding installation

In order to secure the lower panels, we mount jprofiles (starting). They must be positioned strictly horizontally, since the quality of the wall surface depends on this. The work is being carried out in stages.

The starting profile is attached to the vertical guides

1. We determine the horizontal line from which the installation of panels will begin. We set aside 5 cm from it and put a mark with a marker on the vertical guide.
2. Using a building level, we make the appropriate marks on all corners of the house.
3. We stretch the cord between the marks and make marks along the entire perimeter of the house.
4. On the vertical guides we mark the position of the corner connecting profiles. To do this, we temporarily install the profile at the mounting location and outline its boundaries with a marker.
5. We set aside 6 millimeters from each border of the corner profiles to the sides or cut off the nail strips (they are located at the edges).
6. Adhering to the designated boundaries, we attach the starting profile to the vertical elements of the frame.

Installation of starting and corner profiles

Attention: to avoid deformation of profiles as a result of temperature changes, a gap of 10 mm must be left between adjacent elements.

Installation of corner profiles

The work is performed in the following order.

1. We determine the level of fastening of the roofing sheathing (soffits). This is necessary to indicate the upper limit of the corner profiles.
2. Stepping down from the 3 mm line marked with a marker, we install the corner profiles and fix them in the upper part to the guides with self-tapping screws. We mount the outer corner profiles so that their lower edges fit into the groove of the j-profiles.
3. Using a level or plumb line, we correct the position of the corner profiles: it must be strictly vertical. We screw the screws into the nail strips of the profiles along their entire height. The distance between the screws is about 20 cm (but not more than 40 mm).
4. We extend the profiles if the height of the corners exceeds 3 m. To do this, we cut the nail strips of the lower profile so that the upper profile overlaps it with an overlap of 25 mm. Trimming is done with metal scissors.

Extension of corner profile

Tip: for economic reasons, the corner profile can be replaced by joining two j-profiles. Loss of tightness is eliminated using a roll of insulating material, which is glued in the corner.

We mount internal corner profiles by analogy with external elements. We screw in the screws in increments of 20 mm and always in the upper and lower parts (at the edges).

How openings are framed with siding

Openings in the same plane as the facade are designed in compliance with the following technology.

1. Waterproofing material is laid.
2. We install frames of openings using j-profiles.
3. We connect profiles.

Design of openings

To ensure that the corners of the openings are designed with high quality, we do the following.

1. On all sides of the upper profiles we cut off the vertical sections so that horizontal sections remain (the width of the profile).
2. We bend the horizontal sections down: it will close the hole in the lower profile and prevent the penetration of rain moisture.
3. We cut off sections of plastic on the side profiles so that they do not interfere with the connection with the platband or window frame.
4. Connecting profiles.

The connection of profiles with casing (window frame) in the lower part of the opening is carried out in a similar way.

It is allowed to finish the corners of openings and arches using starting profile

If the openings are recessed into the facade, we use similar techniques when designing them. It is important that the folding bridges block the path of rain moisture to the inside of the cladding elements.

Advice: it is recommended to decorate the slopes of windows, deepened by no more than 200 mm, using window strips.

Siding installation technology

Rules for installing the first siding panel

Using the advice of siding experts, we begin work by covering the wall that is most hidden from view. This is necessary to learn how to fasten the material correctly and avoid further mistakes. We adhere to the following rules.

Installation diagram of the first panel

1. We insert the siding panel simultaneously into the groove of the corner and starting profiles. It is important that the panel does not rest against the grooves, but is secured with a gap of 6 mm.
2. The size of the gap may vary depending on the ambient temperature: during summer installation, 6 mm is sufficient; in winter, a distance of at least 9 mm is required.

Continue installation of siding

We install the rest of the siding in the same way as the first panel. In doing so, we comply with the following rules.

1. Periodically, using a level, we check the position of the panels: it must be strictly horizontal.
2. We cut off excess areas when facing walls with openings.
3. We use a punch and hooks to securely connect the panels.
4. We install the finishing strip at the bottom of the opening, lying in the same plane as the wall.

We install the panels from bottom to top, controlling their horizontalness

How to splice siding panels

In the event that it is necessary to use siding scraps for cladding less critical walls, we build up the panels using any of the methods indicated below.

Options for splicing siding panels

1. We use an H-profile. We select panels of the same length in such a way as to join them with a common connecting H-profile. When installing siding panels into the groove, leave a minimum compensation gap of 6 mm.
2. We overlap. To do this, it is necessary to cut the panel fragments (fastening frames and locks) so that when two elements are joined, an overlap of 25 mm is formed.

It is advisable to join the panels on an inconspicuous area of ​​the wall.

Installation of siding panels under the roof

Installation of siding under the roof is associated with the problem of designing the edge of a panel cut to the width. The top panel is installed using the technology described below.

Installation of the top panel under the roof

1. We attach the j-profile horizontally to the roofing sheathing with the groove down.
2. We measure the distance from the key groove of the reinforced penultimate panel to the top of the j-profile.
3. Subtract 2 mm from the result obtained.
4. According to the final size, we cut the top panel from the side of the lock connection.
5. To ensure that the cut edge of the siding holds well in the groove of the j-profile, we cut it in several places and bend it about 10 mm at a right angle. Such hooks should be every 200 mm along the entire length of the panel.
6. We install the prepared panel into the lock of the lower element and, slightly bending it, insert it into the upper profile.

Facing the gable with siding

We install the pediment according to the following algorithm.

1. We attach the starting or j-profile around the perimeter. If the filing is also decorated with siding or vinyl soffits, in the upper part of the gable the starting or j-profile can be replaced with a corner one.
2. By trimming the left and right edges of the panels at an angle to match the angle roof slopes, we install them using the above technology. We install self-tapping screws in the middle of the slots. We follow the rule regulating the size of compensation gaps.
3. We fix the top of the last (top) panel using a self-tapping screw directly through the material. We close the self-tapping screw with a plastic plug, selected by color.

Panel installation diagram for finishing the pediment

General rules for installing siding

Regardless of what type of siding and what material it is made of, it is recommended to adhere to certain rules during installation.

1. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the center of the holes of the fastening strips.
2. Do not tighten the screws tightly so as not to deform the panel and maintain the ability to compensate for thermal expansion.
3. The panels are mounted from bottom to top.
4. A compensation gap is left between adjacent elements to prevent temperature deformations.
5. To fasten wood siding, zinc-coated hardware is used. This is necessary to avoid wood rotting.
6. Cladding the walls of newly constructed buildings is carried out after they have settled.

Here's a visual demonstration technological process- video on how to install vinyl siding using expert advice.

In a private home there is always something to repair, for this reason it is better to have your own tool. If you don’t have the tool, you can buy it before finishing the house with siding. Believe me, it will not gather dust idle after laying the siding with your own hands is finished. So, to carry out the work you will need to purchase:

• A screwdriver is the main tool, which is simply impossible to do without, since it is with the help of it that most work is carried out. For example, the self-tapping screws for fastening metal hangers are tightened, the profiles and the siding panels themselves are attached;
• The building level is necessary for leveling frame elements and siding panels. Can be used as usual building level, and more expensive - laser;

Tip: when working with metal frame siding, it is convenient to use a regular building level, which is additionally equipped with magnets. Using magnets, the level can be installed on the profile and not held, this greatly facilitates the work of leveling the subsystem.

• Drill with impact drilling function or hammer drill. The tool is necessary if you plan to decorate with siding a house whose walls are made of brick or concrete. Additionally, you will need to have a drill or drill, the diameter of which will correspond to the diameter of the dowels used;
• Metal scissors. The tool is simply necessary, because when assembling the frame, you will need to trim the metal profile, and this cannot be done without scissors;
• Roulette. To carry out siding installation work, it is convenient to use a tape measure with a magnetic tip;
• Angle grinder (Bulgarian). Convenient to use for trimming metal profiles, as well as siding, regardless of what material it is made of;
• Construction stapler and staples, for installation vapor barrier material;
• Stationery or any other sharp knife, for cutting insulation and vapor barrier;
• Stepladder or ladder for access to the upper part of the facade;
• You will also need an axe, hammer and nail puller. When decorating a house yourself, there is always something to pull out, knock on, and trim.

Advice: to facilitate installation in the upper part of the facade, special scaffolding. If the height of the house is more than one floor, such scaffolding can be built up, thereby providing access to the highest point.

Work algorithm

Next, let's move on to studying how to install metal siding with your own hands. The instructions for dummies include the following sequence for covering a house with siding with your own hands:

1. Calculation required quantity materials;
2. Preparatory work;
3. Installation of vapor barrier;
4. Installation of insulation;
5. Marking for subsequent installation of the frame;
6. Subsystem installation;
7. Siding installation;
8. Installation of additional elements.

Material calculation

To carry out the installation of siding panels, it is necessary to calculate in advance the required amount of materials. To do this, you need to measure the length and height of all walls that need finishing, and then calculate their area.

Tip: to calculate the required amount of materials, only the clean area of ​​the walls is used. To determine it, it is necessary to subtract the total area of ​​all windows from the rough area.

To determine the required amount of metal profile in linear meters, you need to multiply the net area of ​​the walls by a factor of 2.2. The resulting result can be divided by 3, thus finding out the number of pieces of the profile.

To install each profile, six metal hangers are required, thus, by multiplying the number of profiles by six, you can find out exact quantity suspensions.

It is not difficult to calculate the required number of screws or dowel nails for attaching hangers. You will need two of them per suspension, so you need to multiply the number of suspensions by 2 and get the required number.

Insulation, for sale cubic meters, respectively, multiplying the net area of ​​the walls for finishing with siding by the thickness of the insulation, you can find out the volume of material that will be needed for the work.

The siding itself for finishing a house is calculated quite simply, since you can calculate the area of ​​one siding panel, then divide the net area by the area of ​​one panel and find out the required quantity.

Self-tapping screws for assembling the frame and fastening the panels are calculated based on the clean area that needs finishing. For each square meter area, you will need 50 screws.

After everything has been done and the material has been purchased, you can begin installing the metal siding yourself. The step-by-step instructions advise starting work from the preparatory stage.

Preparatory work

Advice: If work is carried out in a new house that does not yet have window trim, preparatory stage You can check the integrity of the window sealing material and, if necessary, foam the defective areas using polyurethane foam.

The preparatory stage includes the following work:

• Dismantling of window sills and slopes;
• Removal drain pipes and their fastenings;
• If there are lighting fixtures on the walls, they also need to be dismantled, and after work on siding the house, the lanterns will be mounted back on the wall. Work on removing and moving lighting lamps must be carried out in compliance with safety precautions. Most best option, is to entrust such work to a professional electrician;
• Inspecting walls for defects and eliminating them. Seal cracks using polyurethane foam; if the house is wooden, you can treat them with an antiseptic solution, which will prevent corrosion of the material and additionally protect against negative impact moisture.

Installation of vapor barrier and insulation

After the preparatory work, before assembling the frame, it is necessary to install a vapor barrier and insulation.

Important: if polyurethane foam is used for insulation, then there is no need to install a vapor barrier and you can immediately begin marking and installing hangers. Work on the insulation of the facade can be carried out both after the frame is installed and before its assembly, and after the frame has already been assembled.

The vapor barrier is fixed vertically with an overlap of 10–15 cm. If the walls of the house are wooden, then the work is carried out using a construction stapler, otherwise additional dowels with washers placed under the screw head will be needed for fastening.

After installing the vapor barrier, thermal insulation is laid and secured using dowels for insulating materials. At this stage, there is no need to secure the thermal insulation to a large number of dowels, since in the future it will be securely fixed using hangers for the metal profile installed on top of it.

Marking

When marking, you need to remember the basic rules for installing the frame; adhering to them, you will not be able to make mistakes when installing the frame. The basic rules for installing a subsystem include the following mandatory requirements:

1. The frame must be installed in such a way that the distance between the nearest profiles does not exceed sixty centimeters;
2. At the corners of the walls, at a distance of no more than 10 cm from them, a profile must be installed without fail;
3. If you plan to install vinyl or acrylic siding, then it is necessary to make special corner jumpers onto which the corner strip will be attached in the future;
4. Profiles must be installed on all sides of windows and doors;
5. The pitch of the hangers holding each of the profiles should be no more than sixty centimeters.

Frame assembly

Work on assembling the frame begins with the installation of the outer profiles. They must be secured strictly vertically. The location is controlled using a level. Next, between the outer profiles, for ease of installation of the remaining frame elements, you can stretch several rows of construction cords. As a rule, three rows are made (at the very bottom, in the center and at the top).

After the frame is assembled, you can check its correct installation using metal rule or profile. To do this, you need to press the rule to the frame, grabbing at least three profiles. If the rule is pressed tightly against all three elements of the system, it means that the assembly was carried out correctly, otherwise, when curvature is observed and the rule is not pressed tightly, it is necessary to carry out work to eliminate the causes of this phenomenon.

Installation of metal siding panels

Metal siding, unlike its plastic counterparts, has sufficient rigidity and can be installed without additional elements. For example, such as corner or near window trims.

You need to start work on attaching the siding to the frame from the bottom and gradually work your way up. To attach the first strip of siding, you can use a starting strip, which must be leveled horizontally and firmly attached to the frame using 13mm psh-tapping screws.

If desired, you can do without the starting one; in this case, the siding strip is immediately leveled and attached. To prevent the lower part of the siding from dangling, it is secured to the profile with self-tapping screws.

Important: when attaching metal siding without an additional starting strip, the bottom row of screws holding the strip of siding will be visible. If this is unacceptable, you must use a starting strip for installation.

The length of one strip of siding is six meters. In the event that this is not enough to cover the entire width of the wall, a special connecting profile is used to connect the siding strips. It is installed strictly vertically, in the place where the siding panels are planned to be joined. To install a connecting profile in a place where there is no frame element, you can make horizontal jumpers between two adjacent profiles. The distance between jumpers should not exceed 0.6 m.

After the first strip is installed and checked horizontal arrangement, you can install the next strip. To do this, the technological bend on it is installed in the groove of the already mounted strip, after which it is secured in the upper part. The siding is fastened using PSh self-tapping screws, no more than 13 mm long.

Advice: although the preparatory work and installation of the frame can be done alone, then it is not so easy to cope with the installation of six-meter strips of siding alone. It is much more convenient to carry out installation with an assistant.

Fastening plastic strips of siding

Unlike metal siding, plastic version does not have sufficient rigidity and for this reason must be installed in compliance with the manufacturer’s recommendations and together with additional structural elements. Thus, the installation of plastic siding begins with the installation of corner and, if necessary, connecting strips. All recommendations for correct installation siding can be found on the product packaging. But especially important points, we'll still look into it. The first point is the need to maintain gaps that compensate for the thermal linear expansion of the product. The gap should be at least 0.5 mm and no more than 1 cm.

The second point is that plastic siding, unlike metal siding, must be secured in such a way that installed panel could be freely moved to the left or right, to the distance provided by the technological perforation. To achieve this result, when attaching plastic panels siding, the fastening screws should be installed approximately in the middle of the perforation and not tightened to the end.

By observing these simple rules installation, you can be confident in the quality of the final result.

Below you can watch a video description of how to install siding with your own hands; the video shows step by step the entire process of finishing the facade; in fact, these are instructions for installing siding, with a step-by-step process discussed in video format.

Conclusion

Above, we familiarized ourselves with how to install siding with our own hands. Described step by step instructions, quite detailed, but still does not include everything necessary information. Siding installation work is not difficult if you follow the instructions. The main thing when installing plastic siding is to maintain the gaps and install the fastening screws so that the siding panel can move freely to the distance provided for by the mounting perforations.

The siding installation diagram may differ depending on the material from which it is made. Sheathing a house with metal siding is a little easier for a novice craftsman than studying the instructions for installing plastic siding and carrying out the work, observing the required order and technical recommendations the manufacturer of this material.

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How to attach siding to a wooden house - 7 installation steps for home handyman

Exterior decoration- this is one of the important components when building any house, including a wooden one. Now, according to statistics, about half of the owners give preference different types siding, because installing such cladding with your own hands is a realistic task for most home craftsmen, and then together we will go through all 7 stages of finishing a house with siding, plus I will talk about the types of material and prices for it.

We choose siding and purchase components

The very concept of siding implies a typesetting cladding that is mounted on a frame. But such cladding can be made from different materials and each of them has its pros and cons.

Briefly about the types of siding

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Vinyl cladding. PVC cladding is lightweight, waterproof and quite durable, and most importantly the price is quite affordable. But plastic breaks easily, and cheap models also fade in the sun. The price for domestic material starts from 150 rubles. 1 m², for imported ones - from 250 rubles. 1 m².
	Acrylic strips. Roughly speaking, acrylic is a type of plastic. Compared to PVC, it practically does not fade and can withstand extremely low temperatures. But the price for acrylic is one and a half times higher.
	Fiber cement.
	Steel. Galvanized steel sheet With polymer spraying- This great option. The coating is durable and reliable; if it is not scratched, this finish will last at least 50 years. The price here starts from 600 rubles. for 1 m².
	Aluminum. Manufacturers position aluminum cladding as one of the most durable. Light metal, which is not afraid of corrosion, will last longer than a wooden house, but its price starts from 1,200 rubles. for 1 m².
	Wood siding. In fact, this is a type of lining. Most often, the planks are decorated to look like a rounded log (block house) or timber. The material is beautiful, but expensive, with good impregnation and varnishing the price can reach up to 2000 rubles. for 1 m².

For self-finishing wooden house Plastic (PVC or acrylic) and steel siding are best. Fiber cement is heavy, and aluminum and wood are very expensive.

A few words about calculations

Calculating how many panels you need is quite simple. The area of ​​the façade is calculated and 10% is added to it for trimming and scrap. Difficulties are often caused by counting the required number of fittings, that is, guides, docking modules, etc. Here it is best to draw up a detailed sketch and calculate from it.

If the facade correct form and without any special architectural frills, up to 10% of the material is spent on trimming. On complex facades, the minimum tolerance for trimming is 15%.

Tool and material

Self-installation of siding requires the availability of tools; the photo below shows the minimum set.

In addition to the above tools, you will definitely need a hydraulic level. It is a transparent hose with graduated flasks at the ends and works on the principle of communicating vessels.

• As for materials, the panels themselves make up only part of the overall set. Installing siding is impossible without a whole arsenal of fittings. The diagram below shows all the necessary elements;

• Typically, insulation is installed under such cladding. It is not advisable to install polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam on the facade of a wooden house, since they are vapor-tight. Mineral wool slabs are best suited here;

• We will also need to purchase a diffusion vapor-permeable membrane, we will use it to protect mineral wool from moisture.

Seven stages of covering a house with siding

The finishing begins with the assembly of the frame, then the insulation is installed and the walls are sheathed with siding, and at the last stage the roof gables and other small elements are installed.

Stage No. 1. Select a frame

Siding can be hung on wooden slats and on a metal profile. It is easier to work with wooden slats, plus this material is cheaper. But the metal profile is more reliable, and most importantly, the metal is not subject to deformation and can withstand any type of siding, regardless of its weight and dimensions.

If we talk about wooden slats, then the cross-section is selected depending on the thickness of the insulation. After that, the first layer is filled with horizontal sheathing for insulation and the insulation is inserted.

In areas with cold winters, insulation can be sewn in 2 layers, as in the diagram above, in middle lane In Russia, 1 layer 50–70 mm thick is often enough. Next, a vapor barrier and vertical sheathing for installing siding are attached to the insulated wall.

I always recommend making lathing from metal profiles. The instructions there are not much more complicated than when working with wood, but metal is more reliable and even if you have never encountered this, within an hour you will understand the principle of assembly.

• On initial stage Perforated hangers are attached to the wall. IN wooden house they are screwed on with self-tapping screws. We will then attach metal profiles under the siding to the hangers, so we make markings in increments of 40 - 60 cm, strictly vertically;

• Now we make slots in the insulation slabs for the “wings” of the hangers and put the slabs on the hangers. And we lay it on top of the insulation vapor barrier membrane, after which you can begin attaching CD profiles to hangers;

• The profiles are screwed with special self-tapping screws (fleas), and the wings of the suspensions are either bent or cut off. A separate edging from CD profile is made for windows and doors;

• A separate frame of profiles is also installed under the slopes for windows and doors, which is connected to a single frame.

Stage No. 2. J-profile fastening

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Starting point. The starting points are located in the corners and are determined using a hydraulic level.
	Marking. We screw the screws into the starting points and stretch the marking cord between them; At the same time, we mark the boundaries of the installation of the corner profile.
	J-profile fastening. Now, along the entire perimeter of the house, the starting profile is attached to the frame slats with self-tapping screws. The gap between the profile sections is about 12 mm, and between the starting and corner profiles is 6 mm. PVC is subject to temperature deformation and gaps must be left everywhere. Metal siding is also deformed, but much less, so the tolerances there are no more than 5 mm.
	Advice. In order not to make indents from the corner profiles, you can simply cut off the fastening strips in them.

Remember - when attaching any type of siding, screws or nails cannot be driven tightly. A gap of about 1 mm is left under the cap. The elements must hang on self-tapping screws. Plus, nails or screws are driven into the center of the hole.

Stage No. 3. Arrangement of external corners

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Fastening. The corner element, first of all, is consistent with the under-roof soffit. There should be 3 mm from it to the soffit; The top screws are driven in first, then all the rest go at intervals of about half a meter; The lower edge of the corner element falls 6 mm below the starting profile.
	Docking. If the height of the house is more than 3 m, then you will have to join the elements together. To do this, the fastening strips are cut off from the upper element by 25 mm, after which it is overlapped onto the lower element. When joining the upper and lower elements, a gap of 9 mm is left between the fastening strips.
	Alternative option. To save money, you can use 2 starting profiles instead of a corner profile. In this case, it is advisable to glue the joint between the profiles and lay a waterproofing gasket underneath them.

Stage No. 4. Internal corners

The technology for installing internal corners is practically no different from installing external ones. All tolerances are left exactly the same. But there are 3 arrangement options here.

If necessary internal corner also mounted with overlap. The arrangement rules here are similar to external docking.

Stage No. 5. Arrangement of windows and doors

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Docking at right angles. If the window is flush with the wall, then it is framed with starting profiles. Profiles can be joined with cutting at right angles and at an angle of 45º.
	Corner connection. The pruning here is not much more difficult, but the appearance is better.
	Starting the panel. You just need to cut out the panels according to the size of the window and add them to the starting profiles.
	Slopes. If the slopes are small, then they are arranged using starting and finishing profiles. On deep slopes, more panels are inserted between these profiles.

Stage No. 6. Attach the panels

The first panel is inserted into the lower starting profile and screwed or nailed to the sheathing guides. Subsequent panels cling to the groove of the previous ones and are also nailed.

If you work in the summer, then in the heat you need to leave a gap of 5–6 mm everywhere. IN winter period the same gap should be about 9 mm.

Side joining is correctly performed using an H-profile, but to save money, you can trim the fastening strips and let the sheets overlap.

If you are going to do everything as expected, then you will have to mount H-profiles at the joints and, observing all the gaps, join the planks through them. This is certainly correct, but not everyone likes such a noticeable connection.

Stage No. 7. Roof

In order to properly connect the outer planks with the profile, it is often necessary to make special hooks. To do this you will need a punch.

We attach a starting profile under the soffit, after which we trim the end strip taking into account the tolerances and make a series of hooks along the cut with a punch.

To cover the front board and soffit, in addition to the starting profile, a J-chamfer is also used. The technology is shown in the diagram.

The pediment itself is sheathed in almost the same way as the walls, with the only difference being that too much material is spent on trimming.

On modern market construction and finishing materials, there is a huge selection of solutions for cladding a house. One of the leaders in this segment is vinyl siding. The material has many advantages, among which an important advantage is the ability to quickly independently attach panels to the surface to be coated.

Siding is produced in the form of panels about 1 mm thick. Length and width are not standardized and may vary depending on the manufacturer, which is additional benefit– you can choose the panel size that best suits your situation.

Advantages

Among the main advantages of vinyl siding, the following points deserve special attention:

• affordable price;
• ease of installation;
• resistance to adverse influences. Panels withstand impact sunlight and various atmospheric precipitations;
• long service life. Subject to proper installation and appropriate care, high-quality vinyl siding does not lose its visual appeal and original performance properties for 50 years or even more;
• no need for pre-treatment. Vinyl siding does not rot or rust;
• large selection of colors and textures. Available for sale are both simple colored panels and vinyl siding that successfully imitates wood, natural stone and other materials, which allows you to turn the most daring design ideas into reality;
• the ability to perform cladding in any weather;
• no need to use difficult-to-use and hard-to-reach tools for cutting and fixing panels.

Flaws

Like any other existing finishing material Vinyl siding has certain disadvantages, among which the following must be considered:

• low resistance to mechanical loads. Shocks, excessive pressure and other similar influences vinyl panels can't stand it. However, if necessary, damaged elements can be easily replaced with new ones;
• installation requirements. Although the panels are very easy to attach, the installer needs to follow a number of important rules regarding fixing panels, sealing gaps, etc.

Surface preparation

Before installing vinyl siding, you will not have to perform any complicated preparatory operations.

First of all, eliminate any existing defects. Get rid of mold, rot and other damage.

Subject to availability facade plaster either remove it completely or secure it additionally. Get rid of old cladding (panels, tiles, stone, etc.).

Installation of sheathing and insulation

Proceed with the installation of the sheathing. If you decide to mount the siding horizontally, fix the sheathing vertically, and vice versa.

Traditionally, the sheathing is assembled from wooden blocks with a cross-section of 5x5 cm. If the house is built of brick or concrete blocks, you can assemble the sheathing from a metal profile - whichever is more convenient for you.

Select the spacing of the sheathing bars individually according to the width of the insulation slabs. If the walls are to be insulated, the sheathing will have to be double. The first is under the insulation, the second is directly under the siding. Place the bottom sheathing perpendicular to the top one.

First step. Place the sheathing bars in accordance with the previously received recommendations. To secure the elements, use self-tapping screws or other convenient fasteners.

Second step. Cover the sheathing with a vapor barrier membrane film. To fix the film, it is most convenient to use a construction stapler with staples.

Third step. Place the insulation in the cells of the sheathing. Mineral wool insulation is perfect.

Fourth step. Cover the insulation with waterproofing film. To fix the film to the sheathing, it is most convenient to use a construction stapler with staples.

Fifth step. Nail the insulation battens perpendicular to the vinyl siding battens.

To assemble the sheathing for the siding, use bars or metal profiles - whichever is more convenient for you. In most cases, working with timber is easier and faster.

If using wood, pre-treat it with a high-quality antiseptic. Additionally, it is recommended to process everything wooden elements fire retardant.

The wooden beam must be dry. Otherwise, the wood will deform during the drying process and the sheathing, as well as the trim attached to it, will begin to move. A metal profile does not have these disadvantages, which is why professionals most often give preference to metal sheathing.

Additionally, secure profiles around all openings.

Siding Installation Guide

Self-installation of vinyl siding takes several steps. simple steps. Work in accordance with the instructions and everything will definitely work out.

The first step is to determine the starting point

Inspect the building before starting finishing work. Consider where you will start attaching the panels. If the house already had cladding, you can install a new coating in accordance with the placement features of the previous finish. In the case of new buildings, the starting row of panels must be fastened so that they overlap the top edge concrete base Houses.

Draw a straight marking line for installing the starting horizontal row of panels. A plumb line and a marker will help you with this.

Second step – installation of accessories

In the process of decorating your home with vinyl siding, you will need to install a variety of additional accessories such as trim elements, corner panels, starting strip, etc. Professionals recommend starting finishing work namely with the installation of accessories.

First of all, place the corner elements. There should be a small gap of about 5-6 mm between the top of the corner of the building and the cornice.

Third step - attaching the starting strip

It is very important to place the starting strip perfectly level - the quality of installation of all subsequent panels directly depends on this. Previously, you drew a horizontal marking line on the walls of the house. Set aside a distance up from this line equal to the width of the starting bar and draw a second straight line.

Attach the starter strip to the wall using screws or nails. The siding panels have factory mounting holes. Drive the fasteners into these holes. Leave a gap of about 1-1.5 cm between adjacent panels.

Fourth step - insulation of window and door openings

Prepare panels for finishing the openings - strips, flashings, casing elements, overlays. Strips near doors and windows should be joined at 45 degrees - it’s more beautiful.

Fifth step - installation of facing panels

Once all accessories are installed, proceed to attaching the main panels. Perform finishing starting from the starting strip, gradually moving from bottom to top.

Insert the siding panel into the starter strip. You can do this easily, because... the panels initially have factory joining fasteners. Do not insert the panel “tightly” - it should be able to move slightly with temperature changes.

Cover all planned sections of walls using the same pattern. Fasten the panels with nails or self-tapping screws every 40-45 cm. At the joints of individual panels, leave a gap of 0.5-1 cm.

Attach panels around openings and pipes last. You can buy special elements cladding for difficult areas or make the corresponding holes yourself.

Step six - installing the top wall edge

Finally, all you have to do is finish the upper wall edges. Be as careful as possible at this stage of work. At the top of the walls, profiles should be placed as you did when lining the space around the openings.

Only whole strips of siding can be used under the roof. Planks can only be cut for placement on gables.

To lay the last row, use a finishing overlay or a special J-profile.

Thus, there is nothing difficult about installing vinyl siding yourself. Now you know the main stages and provisions of the technology for performing this cladding. To make the job as easy as possible and the finished result to be of the highest quality, please read these additional important tips.

Vinyl siding installation technology has important nuances, namely:

Follow the instructions you receive and don't forget important recommendations, and you can cover your home with vinyl siding no worse than professional remodelers would do it.

Good luck!

Video - DIY vinyl siding installation