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Private house with an insulated attic. Insulating your attic will make your home warmer! Insulating the attic floor with expanded clay

Attic spaces, the frame of which is presented in the form wooden trusses, are correctly called “cold”. These objects are not particularly durable compared to reinforced concrete structures, but they have their merits.

Basically they come down to the great possibilities of using thermal insulation materials. A classic attic floor on wooden beams is equipped with insulation using ordinary carpentry tools, unlike reinforced concrete, where special equipment is required.

Insulation of the attic floor, in addition to insulation, requires the installation of proper vapor barriers and exhaust hoods that prevent the formation of mold and mildew. And if you correctly follow the technology when installing insulating material, then air exchange will be guaranteed.

The design of the attic directly depends on the parameters of the building and the purposes intended for the use of this room. The under-roof space plays the role of a kind of air gap separating warm heated rooms from the cold roof.

In this case, the floor in the attic performs two tasks:

Isolating. In the attic of a house, the air temperature is almost no different from the street temperature. In this case, the floors have an insulating function, thereby preventing the penetration of cold air into the living spaces.

Carrier. In most cases, flooring on wooden beams between attic space and the upper floor of the house, like the walls, has a load-bearing function. In this regard, it must be reliable and durable, since people move along it, utensils are stored or any equipment is placed.

Therefore, in order to know the permissible load on the attic floors, it is necessary to make a calculation. Then, based on their results, draw up a project that will show how to properly insulate the attic floor of a building.

Selection of material for insulation

The technique for insulating an attic is simple, since the material is laid directly on the floor, in the gap between the rafters and wooden floor beams. If you plan to use the attic space as an attic, then you also need to insulate the roof.

To insulate the floor between the beams in the attic, several types of insulation are used:

• Mineral wool.
• Styrofoam.
• Expanded polystyrene.
• Sawdust.
• Expanded clay.
• Foam.

Let's take a closer look at each insulating product.

Mineral wool insulation

In order to save heat, the material must be placed between steam and waterproofing films. Vapor barrier protects against moist air masses that form in living spaces near the ceiling, especially at the junction with the walls. The second layer protects the wool from water entering from the roof through microcracks and holes in the roof.

The attic space of a house is insulated most often from the floor rather than from the ceiling of the lower floor. For this purpose, mineral wool is a reliable, inexpensive insulating material with high compression, allowing it to cover the surface of not only the floor, but also beams of various shapes. This insulation is sold in rolls or slabs of different thicknesses.

At the same time, it has the following advantages:

• Budget cost.
• Easy to install.
• Rodents do not grow in such insulation.
• High fire safety of the material.
• Ability to isolate any uneven surface.

At the same time, when working with mineral wool, it is necessary to take protective measures: wear thick clothing, work in goggles and protective gloves, and it is also advisable to use a respirator.

Styrofoam

Insulating an attic space with polystyrene foam is a good option for converting it into an attic, suitable for year-round residence. This material has low thermal conductivity, as it is produced in the form of foamed air granules pressed into slabs.

During installation, the foam must be cut so that the plates fit tightly between the attic floors. Any gaps and cracks become “bridges” for the penetration of cold, and thereby significantly worsen the quality of insulation.

In this case, it is necessary to maintain a distance between the foam board and the waterproofing film of at least 2-3 cm. It is recommended to use it as insulation with a thickness of 70 mm, and in regions with a harsh climate - 100 mm.

Attention! When installing a vapor barrier film, you need to pay attention to the fact that it faces the insulation with the required layer, according to the instructions. Otherwise, the opposite effect will be produced: all the steam will be directed towards the insulating material.

Extruded polystyrene foam

When insulating the ceiling of a living space over the attic floors, for many builders this material is considered the best option. This insulation does not cause any difficulties during installation; it can be laid under any beam ceiling.

It also saves space, since you can get by with two to three times less thickness than using the same mineral wool. Extruded polystyrene foam comes in different types, as it is produced by different manufacturers. To insulate attic floors, the density of such material should be about 32-34 kg/m, and its thickness should be from 40 to 100 mm.

Manufacturers also produce shaped elements from expanded polystyrene, which are used to lay out complex fragments in the attic ceiling. It is convenient to install this insulation in two layers: the first layer is laid between the attic floors, and the second layer is applied end-to-end along the bottom row, covering the wooden beams as well.

The main disadvantage of such insulation is that it is flammable. To reduce the fire hazard, you can lay mineral wool with expanded polystyrene, or add antipyrine.

Expanded clay

Expanded clay for the attic of a house is traditional method thermal insulation of the technical floor. This material is poured between wooden floors with a layer thickness of at least 150 mm. This mass is a universal means that can insulate floor structures, and it can also be used as thermal insulation together with other bulk materials.

Attention! Expanded clay is a fairly light insulation material, but when a thick layer is applied, the load-bearing surface of the ceiling will bear a large load.

Thermal insulation is best carried out at the construction stage of the building, since it is easy to waterproof the ceilings of the rooms under the attic and provide for an exhaust hood.

To do this, cover the ceiling with a vapor barrier film to protect the expanded clay layer from getting wet. It is not recommended to pour it directly onto the floorboards for another reason: during operation and operation of the room, a lot of dust is released, which penetrates into living rooms.

Sawdust

Sawdust is a product of lumber processing in the woodworking industry. This is the cheapest insulation for attic floors, since you can buy sawdust at any sawmill for free. Thus, sawdust is still an option as a reliable heat insulator in attic spaces.

On a note! Sawdust is of organic origin, therefore, it is completely harmless to human health. Since ancient times in Rus', sawdust mixed with clay has been used as insulation in attics.

Sawdust has the following advantages:

1. Low cost of thermal insulation. Probably, the popularity of such insulation lies precisely because of this factor: its cost is almost equal to the cost of transportation.
2. Safety for human health. Wood shavings and sawdust does not cause skin irritation, allergies, or poisoning, which cannot be said with complete confidence about modern insulation materials.
3. Low thermal conductivity coefficient. Unlike wood, chips have a porous structure, so they have low heat conductivity.
4. Easy installation. To form a heat-insulating layer in the attic floors, no special skills are required. You just need to mix sawdust with clay or lime, and then pour it into the space between the attic floors.

The only one significant disadvantage is the fire hazard of the material, despite the mixture with other non-flammable substances.

Foam

IN Lately For insulating attic floors, two types of insulating materials have become popular: blown-in wool and ecowool. The latter material consists of 80% cellulose fibers made from waste paper, and 20% from additives, which are fire-fighting and antiseptic components.

This material has low thermal conductivity, it is very light, and looks like regular polyurethane foam. Both types of insulation are usually sprayed onto the boards between wooden beams, but sometimes ecowool is used in granules in a crumbly state. In this case, this mixture, as an option, is simply poured between the floor beams and compacted.

Vapor barrier

The vapor barrier film protects wooden beam ceilings from moisture formed in the air of residential premises. In addition, it protects floors from the appearance of mold and mildew in the insulating material.

Regardless of how the attic floor is made, the vapor barrier for the floor should form a continuous carpet that does not allow condensation to penetrate. Particular attention should be paid at the joints with walls, where there is a high probability of condensation penetration. To do this, the covering film is overlapped and its edges are glued together with tape.

Insulation technology

For correct application insulation, follow the step-by-step instructions:

Step #1. Carry out an inspection and, if defects are found, eliminate them. Treat boards and timber with antiseptics and fungicides.

Step #2. Post vapor barrier material, seal all gaps with mounting tape.

Step #3. Lay (pour) insulation into the openings of wooden floors on the floor.

Step #4. Pay special attention to the joints between slabs of insulating material. If necessary, apply additional insulation.

Step #5. Lay the waterproofing film overlapping and fasten the joints with mounting tape.

Step #6. Separately install insulation on the ventilation duct, chimney pipes in the form basalt wool, perlite, and it is advisable to install a special corrugation on top.

Installation of wooden attic beams

The attic ceilings are designed to separate the living rooms from the under-roof space. They don't miss cold air, therefore the main task is their thermal insulation. Various equipment is also often installed in the attic.

In this regard, another important task is to create solid foundation, capable of withstanding this load. Thus, the safety of people, their comfortable accommodation, as well as the durability of the structure.

Attic flooring on wooden beams - standards, requirements

According to the requirements of SNiP 31-02, attic floors must withstand thermal, statistical, acoustic and fire conditions. In addition, they must be energy-saving, therefore, reliable thermal insulation must be installed on the floors.

When installing an attic floor on wooden beams, you must strictly adhere to all sanitary and hygienic requirements. When erecting a frame, it is necessary to construct the structure, and then insulate the attic floor. At the same time, the same temperature must be maintained between the lower part of the attic and the living room. The difference in indicators in degrees according to the standards is allowed no more than 4˚C.

For structural elements In the attic, dry, seasoned timber with a cross-section of 100×150 or 200×250 mm should be used, and the humidity in it should not exceed 20-30%. The distance between the load-bearing beams depends on the load, but usually it is taken at intervals of 3 to 6 meters. In addition to bearing load, wooden floors require a maximum safety margin.

It must be borne in mind that the minimum load on such load-bearing beams is 100 kg/sq. m. And the period of trouble-free operation of wooden floors according to the standards is 60 years. It is due to the fact that the wood is susceptible to damage from fungus and insects, as well as a change in the strength of the beams under the influence of possible condensation.

Read more about regulatory requirements on attic floors, watch the video:

The joints between the rafter beams and the wall, as well as the load-bearing ceiling beams, should be especially protected with insulating material. If all these conditions are met, the house will serve you faithfully for a long time.

One of the main places of heat loss in a house is the roof. This conclusion can be made thanks to practical observations and elementary physics, because warm air tends to rise up. This is why the attic should be insulated. If not completed high-quality thermal insulation attic floor during the construction stage of the house, later, when winter sets in, cold air may blow strongly from the ceiling. Armstrong suspended ceiling perfect solution for a private home. The question arises of how to insulate the attic of a house. At the same time, the wishes of home owners can be completely different: for some, the main thing is for it to be cheaper, for others, for the work to be easier, and for others, they want to insulate exclusively with environmentally friendly or natural materials. In this article, we will talk about the general technology of attic insulation and the materials that can be used for this.

Before moving directly to materials for insulation, I would like to clarify a little why it is necessary to insulate the attic in a private house and what function it performs. Our ancestors were not stupid or ignorant, which is why old houses stand for more than 100 years, while the house is always warm, and the roof and wooden structures are always dry. What's the secret? The thing is that the ideal insulation is air. Free, natural, always present, and also changeable depending on the time of year. Previously, the roof was always made of a gable roof, with such a slope that it was easy to linger on it. snow. Also by the way, cheap insulation. An attic space with one or two windows in the gables of the house was made under the roof slope. When necessary, these windows were kept closed, then the air trapped in the attic space acted as a heat insulator. In another situation, in the summer, for example, windows were opened at night to cool the air, and then closed before a hot day, thus controlling its temperature.

With the onset of winter, a cap of snow fell on the roof. Even in the most severe cold of this natural insulation it was enough to ensure that the temperature in the attic did not drop below zero, even if it was -25 °C outside. Attic air and additional thermal insulation of the ceiling were necessary in order to ensure a temperature in the house of about +20 - + 25 ° C. At the same time, the roof slope was never insulated from the inside to prevent the snow from melting, and the rafters remained open for diagnostics and repairs. A heated attic space with an insulated slope is no longer an attic, no matter what shape it has. This is an attic, with all that follows from here.

IN modern construction These principles also work. Therefore, let's talk about how you can insulate the attic of a private house, what material to insulate the attic floor, i.e. attic floor or house ceiling.

How can you insulate an attic?

First of all, the material for insulating the attic is selected taking into account what the ceiling is made of. If it is made of wooden beams, and a wooden floor is laid on top, then you can use lightweight bulk materials, rolls and slabs. Those. the choice is as wide as possible. If the ceiling is a concrete slab, then to insulate it you will have to use dense slab materials or, in extreme cases, heavy bulk materials, since a cement screed can be placed on top of them.

Bulk materials for attic insulation:

• Sawdust;
• Straw;
• Reed;
• Buckwheat tyrsa;
• Ecowool (cellulose wool);
• Flax (bulk waste from flax processing);
• Glass wool;
• Expanded clay;
• Seaweed;
• Slag;
• Chaff from grain crops;
• Foam granules.

Roll materials for attic insulation:

• Mineral wool;
• Glass wool;

Materials in slabs and mats:

• Straw;
• Styrofoam;
• Extruded polystyrene foam;
• Seaweed;
• Mineral wool in slabs.

When choosing the best way to insulate an attic, you should be guided by: thermal insulation characteristics material, availability in a particular region, its ability not to change its properties with temperature changes, ease of installation and then use of the room, and also, importantly, environmental friendliness, or better yet, naturalness. For example, build wooden house and insulating the attic with polystyrene foam would be, to say the least, stupid, because wood is a breathable material, but polystyrene foam is not. As a result, the house will be damp and disgusting, and over time, wooden structures will begin to rot and deteriorate. And, of course, the choice of insulation will depend on the financial capabilities of the owner.

How to insulate a cold attic with backfill materials

Insulating an attic with backfill materials is the oldest method that has proven itself over the centuries. Most often it is used if the floors are wooden, then it is simply poured between the joists.

The general technology of this insulation is as follows: kraft paper or other similar material(glassine, loose cardboard) or the ceiling is coated with clay, thermal insulation material is poured on top, a layer that is calculated taking into account the region of residence, and boards are laid on top on which you can walk. The hatch leading to the attic is also insulated.

Rumors that natural insulation materials quickly cake are somewhat exaggerated. Therefore, without fear, you can choose the one that most appeals to you and is available.

Insulating the attic with flax

To insulate an attic with your own hands, you don’t need any special skills. Dexterity and basic knowledge of physics are enough. The first step is to seal all the cracks in wooden floor. They can be covered with clay, or with modern materials. Then kraft paper is laid on top or the entire surface of the floor is coated with a 2 cm layer of clay.

Bonfire- waste from flax processing. The material is very cheap in some regions, resistant to fungi and microorganisms, does not rot, and is lightweight. Mice cannot breed in a fire, since it is impossible to make a burrow (nest) in it; it immediately crumbles, filling the passage. The material cakes, but you can always add it directly from above or replace it with a new one. The undeniable advantage of linen materials is that there are no problems with their disposal; you just need to rake them out of the attic and then burn them, which cannot be said about glass wool.

The fire is covered with a layer of 180 to 350 mm. There is nothing covering the top; for ease of walking around the attic, you can lay out the boards, but do not fill the entire space, do not make a full-fledged floor. This will allow the material to breathe and release moisture. In the attic, ventilation must be provided in the form of small or medium-sized windows. From time to time the material is checked, if it is slightly damp, the windows are opened to dry the space and linen.

Wondering how to properly insulate cold attic, many are inclined to the old ancestral method - insulating with sawdust. This is especially true in regions where there is wood processing nearby, where you can buy sawdust for ridiculous money or even get it for free in any quantity.

To begin with, as in the case of linen insulation, all cracks in the floor are coated with clay. You can sprinkle a little sand on top. It is necessary so that if the clay cracks, sand can be poured into the crack. Next, sprinkle everything with slaked lime and carbide. This will be protection against mice. Cover the top with sawdust in a layer of 100 - 200 mm. Since sawdust is a flammable material, they were usually sprinkled with slag waste on top. Especially in areas around chimneys or other hot objects. Instead of slag, you can use other materials, for example, treat sawdust with fire retardants. There is also nothing laid on top of the sawdust, except for boards on which one could walk.

Instead of sawdust, you can use straw or chaff from grain crops. Kraft paper or glassine is also laid under it, but you can coat the floor with clay with a layer of up to 5 cm. Straw is immediately poured in a layer of 200 - 500 mm, depending on the region and the severity of the winter cold. To reduce the flammability of straw, you can coat it with a 1-2 cm layer of clay on top. The same method is used against mice as with sawdust, or any other folk remedy.

Ecowool- a modern material, a product of processing newspapers and other waste paper with the addition of mineral binders and other additives that provide a low flammability class.

Due to the fact that ecowool can absorb moisture from the air in its fibers, it is not necessary to lay a vapor barrier material, but it is still worth laying some kind of film.

Ecowool is immediately laid directly on the wooden floors, this is done using a special blowing installation. This installation principle makes it possible to make the insulation layer monolithic, without a single crack, and it will also contain a large amount of air, which serves as a heat insulator. For many regions of Russia, a layer of ecowool of 250 mm is sufficient, but a layer of 300 or 500 mm can be arranged.

Important! After about 1 - 3 weeks, a protective crust forms on top of the ecowool. This is lignin, which binds the fibers of the top layer. Therefore, sometimes when installing this insulation, water spraying is used to speed up the process of lignin formation.

Due to the fact that ecowool cakes, its layer decreases, therefore, when blowing, you should use 5 - 15% more than the planned amount of ecowool.

Insulating an attic with fiberglass

A fairly common way to insulate an attic floor is to cover it with fiberglass in a layer of 150 - 250 mm. Although this material does not burn, does not rot, is not afraid of moisture, mice and microorganisms do not grow in it, it is quite toxic. When laying it on the attic floor, be sure to be dressed from head to toe in thick clothing, gloves and a respirator. After all the styling work, the clothes will have to be burned.

Once the material has caked, it must be replaced with a new one, and here some difficulties arise, since the material is not recycled in the usual way. The biggest inconvenience occurs when there are no windows in the attic through which it can be thrown into the street, and it has to be carried through the house.

Insulating the attic with expanded clay

Expanded clay is very suitable for insulating concrete floors. It is filled with a layer of about 200 - 250 mm, and poured on top cement strainer layer up to 50 mm. This allows you to create a floor in the attic on which you can not only walk unhindered, but also on which you can arrange or lay out unnecessary things. Cement-sand mixture for the screed it should not have a liquid, but a dense consistency, so as not to flow too much into the expanded clay backfill.

How to properly insulate an attic with rolled materials

Rolled materials are good for insulation because they can be laid in the space between joists up to 180 - 200 mm high. Mostly materials are used that are easy to cut and quickly take the required shape.

Mineral wool is a modern thermal insulation material that is ubiquitous. It is very often used for attic insulation, since it does not burn, does not rot, and is not afraid of microorganisms and rodents, as well as moisture.

It must be laid on the wooden floor below vapor barrier film, the joints of which are glued with special tape, because cotton wool absorbs moisture, but practically does not give it away.

Rolls of mineral wool can be laid on top of the film. During work, you must wear thick clothing, as is the case with fiberglass. Vata takes its full size within 15 - 20 minutes. There is no need to cover it with anything on top, but you can lay down boards for walking. Waterproofing material to protect wool from leaks is laid only under the roof.

Insulating the attic with algae ladders

Seaweed ladders are an excellent natural material for insulating attics. Thanks to the sea salt and iodine with which the algae are impregnated, mice do not grow in them, and they do not rot and are not afraid of microorganisms. The ladders are pierced mats made of zostera sea grass. In terms of thermal insulation properties, this material is in no way inferior to modern ones. synthetic materials. One of the main advantages is environmental friendliness, as well as the fact that the drains practically do not burn, only slightly smolder and do not emit toxic substances.

Algae are not afraid of moisture, so there is no need to vapor barrier the floor; you can immediately lay the drains on the floor with a layer of up to 200 mm or more. On top you can install a wooden floor or lay boards for walking.

Using algae for attic insulation is very beneficial for the health of home residents, as they provide ideal conditions and microclimate in the room, and also release beneficial iodine into the air.

Insulating the attic with linen insulation

Modern linen insulation is produced in the same rolls as mineral wool. Their only advantage is that they are absolutely environmentally friendly. Linen is an excellent choice for attic insulation wooden house or houses made of other environmentally friendly materials - adobe, for example.

Before laying the rolled material, all cracks in the floor should be sealed with clay; no other vapor barrier is needed. Linen insulation is laid on top, joining neatly and leaving no gaps.

How to insulate an attic with slab materials and mats

Insulate wooden floors slab materials It makes no sense, even though it is possible. These materials are mainly used for thermal insulation. concrete slabs floors. With subsequent arrangement of the floor in the attic.

Insulating the attic with polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam

Polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam is not a very dense material, but it can be used to insulate an attic. But extruded polystyrene foam is ideal for these purposes, as it is much denser. Before laying polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam, the floor slab must be checked for unevenness. The surface should be leveled so that the insulation boards can be carefully laid. A vapor barrier material should be laid on the leveled surface.

Next, the slabs are laid in a checkerboard pattern, and the joints are sealed polyurethane foam. After the foam has dried, it is necessary to pour a cement-sand screed on top with a layer of about 4 - 5 cm. After the screed has dried, it can be used as an attic floor.

Insulating the attic with reeds

Reed slabs began to be made relatively recently, when the demand for environmentally friendly materials. In terms of thermal insulation properties, reeds are no worse modern materials. Even without treating them with fire retardants, the flammability class is G2 - G3, and after treatment - G1. The same cannot be said about polystyrene foam and EPS, which burn and release toxic substances.

Reed slabs can be used to insulate both wooden and concrete floors. In this case, a vapor barrier is not necessary. And on top you can install a wooden floor or decking.

The modern market is replete with a variety of thermal insulation materials, and sellers try to praise them, attributing non-existent advantages. Therefore, in conclusion, I would like to say that when choosing a material for insulating an attic, focus on the overall concept of the house and life priorities. If your house is made of environmentally friendly wood, then the insulation should be natural, so you will not only preserve the wood, but also your health. If your house is made of foam blocks or other non-breathable material, you can also use mineral wool, it won't get any worse.

Video: how to insulate an attic

Over time, every owner of a private house thinks about insulating the attic. After all, every year the materials lose their original qualities, which leads to a loss of heat that escapes through the attic.

Insulating your home is a top priority that needs to be addressed before the cold weather arrives. So, as everyone knows that warm house- this is not the one that is well heated, but the one that does not allow all this heat to pass through.

It is also necessary to note the fact that insulating the attic of a private house with foam plastic or any other insulation will make it possible to significantly reduce heating costs.

That is why the question of how and with what to insulate an attic becomes extremely relevant.

Typically, this kind of insulation is necessary in little-used rooms. It is also important to note that they must be equipped with properly equipped roof ventilation.

The attic, together with its ceilings, performs a very important function, namely, it acts as a boundary between heat and cold.

A large amount of condensation accumulates here and this occurs as a result of intense exposure to moisture in the attic. And this must be taken into account when insulating your private home.

Many firms and companies offer similar services, but it often happens that the prices for their services are too high and many people think about insulating the house themselves. You can insulate your house with your own hands. However, for this it is important to take into account all the installation features of this or that insulation.

Below we describe in more detail all the materials that can be used as insulation for the attic. All the advantages, as well as their disadvantages, will be discussed here, so that in the end you can choose the most optimal option for yourself.

• But first you need to determine the main types of insulation:
• bulk;
• slab;
• roll;

sprayed.

It should be noted that each of the options has its own characteristics and can be used as insulation for the attic. It is important to understand that only the main materials that have received the largest number of positive reviews are listed here.

Insulation using mineral wool, ecowool Mineral wool is perhaps today the most popular material for insulating a mountain. This is something of a classic construction industry

. After all, it is used by both professional teams and people who decided to tackle the issue of insulation on their own.

Such wide popularity of mineral wool was achieved due to its excellent performance characteristics. Especially if you take into account basalt mineral wool. It is fire resistant and easy to install.

• It is also worth considering some more of its advantages, which include:
• Simplicity in operation; when working with mineral wool, absolutely no problems arise, even for those who insulate the attic themselves.
• It has a “breathing effect” and it is due to this that a good microclimate is created.
• Not flammable.
• Allows you to create good sound insulation.
• Environmentally friendly material.
• Many note its property of not losing shape even over a long period of use.
• It has a relatively light weight, which in no way affects the main structure.
• Rodents and other pests cannot spoil it.
• One of the cheapest materials, which is suitable for insulating the attic of a private house.

It is also necessary to say that mineral wool is sold both in rolls and in slabs. And this makes it possible to choose the most suitable option, which will be easier for you to install.

Important! If you decide to insulate the attic with mineral wool, you will need to take care of both waterproofing and vapor barrier. This is due to the fact that this material is afraid of moisture. And if you ignore this point, then after some time the mineral wool will lose its original appearance and its performance characteristics.

Insulation of the attic with polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam

Anyone who wonders how to insulate an attic has the idea of ​​using polystyrene foam. And this is not at all accidental, since this material is even more common than mineral wool. It is also used by professional builders in their work, and it is perfect for independent work.

The main feature that polystyrene foam has is its reasonable price. It is actually the cheapest building material that can be used as attic insulation.

It is also important to note that polystyrene foam is much denser than cotton wool, and therefore it is a pleasure to lay it, since it is an “obedient” material. It can be easily processed and placed in the right place.

In addition, a number of its advantages can be noted:

• Keeps its original shape perfectly.
• Unaffected by moisture.
• Low thermal conductivity, an order of magnitude lower than that of mineral wool.
• The ability to create excellent sound insulation.

But along with big amount advantages, this material also has significant disadvantages, which include the following indicators:

• Highly flammable, just one spark is enough for the foam to begin to smolder.
• It does not allow steam to pass through, and therefore it is not possible to achieve the effect of “breathing walls” with this insulation.
• If you don’t additionally protect the polystyrene foam, then rodents will “happily” chew on it, and therefore you may end up without attic insulation.

Despite all its shortcomings, polystyrene foam still remains one of the leaders in the field of attic insulation. After all, fires do not happen so often; additional protection of the material can be used against rodents, but the “breathing effect” is not so important in a mountainous area.

Therefore, we can conclude that for such a low price this is simply an excellent option.

Blown in attic insulation

This method of insulating a hill in a private house is the most fashionable today. It is used by almost all companies that offer similar construction services.

The main advantage that this attic insulation has is that it independently fills all the space, voids and at the same time creates a uniform and continuous layer. You no longer need to cut blocks to fill all the holes.

In Russia today, two blown insulation materials are used: blown wool and ecowool.

The latter consists of 80% cellulose fibers. They are made from the most ordinary waste paper, but the remaining 20% ​​are a wide variety of additives, which can act as boric acid, acting as an antiseptic and Buran as a fire retardant.

Blown-in wool consists entirely of standard mineral substances that are intended for thermal insulation. It is important to note that it is highly crushed.

Insulation with bulk materials: expanded clay

If you are still thinking about how to insulate an attic in a private house, then you should pay attention to expanded clay. This is one of the most simple ways insulate the attic without turning to specialists.

Expanded clay consists of balls that are poured onto the floor, trying to distribute them as evenly as possible. As you already understand, they can only insulate the floor, the ceiling - it won’t work, in any way.

The advantages of the material include the following:

• Not flammable.
• Resistant to low temperatures.
• Has high strength.
• Creates excellent sound insulation.
• Environmentally friendly material that does not in any way affect human health.
• Has a long service life.
• Provides good thermal insulation.

The material is poured over the roofing felt, the minimum layer should be at least 15 cm. In order to be able to walk through the attic, you will need to make a concrete screed.

Sawdust as insulation for the attic

The technical characteristics of this material are in no way inferior to modern synthetic insulation.

Important! Sawdust is used extremely rarely for insulation, since the market offers big choice other materials that are much easier to work with.

Advantages of sawdust:

• Sawdust is an environmentally friendly material.
• Low cost.
• Long service life.
• Low thermal conductivity.
• To create such insulation, you do not need any special equipment or special tools.

Polyurethane foam

This material occupies a leading position in the table environmental safety, and therefore you can safely buy it.

Important! This material shows excellent adhesion and therefore can be used with absolutely any materials.

Characteristic properties of polyurethane foam:

• not susceptible to moisture;
• high level of sound insulation;
• practically non-flammable.

Stages of attic insulation

In order for the insulation to serve for a long time and not cause any problems, it is necessary to strictly follow the technology. This is the only way to be sure of the quality of insulation.

Preparing the attic

The first stage is preparing the attic.

And first of all, it is necessary to restore order in it, by this we mean:

• cleaning up all unnecessary items;
• All wooden parts should be pre-treated with a special composition that protects the material from rotting, as well as from the formation of fungus;
• if any metal surfaces, then you should take care of them, or rather treat them with a special primer or an anti-corrosion compound;
• all cracks should be removed old insulation, rags, and sawdust.
• If cracks are found in the attic, they need to be sealed with polyurethane foam.

Stage two - waterproofing

When insulating a hilltop, this stage is one of the most important, since many materials do not tolerate moisture well and may even lose their original characteristics. That is why it is necessary to take care of a good one. Waterproofing also helps prevent corrosion on metal floors.

The third stage - laying insulation

Depending on the chosen insulation, we begin to distribute it evenly over the floor, as well as the walls and ceiling, unless, of course, it is expanded clay or sawdust.

It is important to ensure that all layers are the same and that there is no gap between the insulation. At this stage you need to be as careful as possible.

The fourth stage - vapor barrier

Vapor barrier is prerequisite, both for and for reinforced concrete. It must be laid directly on the ceiling, only in this way can it protect the insulation from the resulting vapors that can accumulate in the heat insulator passing through the ceiling.

Fifth stage - counter-lattice

After the previous stages have been completed, you can begin to finish the walls (roof). For this you can use various materials: lining, drywall or plywood.

Stage six - insulation of utilities

To do this, you can purchase mineral wool and wrap it around the pipes, and then wrap everything with roofing felt and secure it with wire. This is the easiest way to insulate communications.

As you can see, there are no particular difficulties in insulating an attic. The main thing is to carefully follow the instructions and do everything consistently and then you will be able to do this procedure no worse than the professionals.

After all, now you can independently choose the most suitable material as insulation.

To make the under-roof space of a private house warm and even habitable, it is necessary to insulate the attic from all sides - along the gables and roof slopes. This is quite a difficult and troublesome task, given the slopes of the attic walls to which the insulation will have to be attached. Here it is important to maintain the technology so that the thermal insulation “pie” lasts for decades and at the same time retains heat well. Therefore, the question of how to properly insulate a cold attic with your own hands is worth considering in more detail.

Insulation options

Before considering the list of materials, it makes sense to clarify what the concept of “insulating an attic” means, since the choice of insulation depends on this. Some homeowners put into this concept the insulation of the ceiling and the hatch into the attic in order to reduce heat loss in the house, and the under-roof space itself will remain cold. Others mean thermal insulation of roof slopes from the inside with insufficiently insulated ceilings, as was done in old houses using clay.

Still others want to make the attic space usable and warm, which again requires insulation of the attic walls, which are roof slopes and side gables. It is this kind of thermal insulation that will be discussed in detail below. If we are talking about insulating the floor of a cold attic, then the choice of materials here is quite large:

• expanded clay;
• wood waste (sawdust);
• glass wool in rolls (such as ISOVER or URSA);
• slab or rolled mineral wool (ROCKWOOL, KNAUF);
• slabs made of foamed polymers (foam plastic, extruded polystyrene foam).

Note. The list does not include options for insulation with polyurethane foam and ecowool due to their high cost, but we have listed the most popular materials for attic floors. In addition, you won’t be able to insulate the attic floor with sprayed polyurethane foam yourself without special equipment.

Now, from the list presented above, we will highlight those insulation materials that are most often used to insulate the inclined walls of the attic. In terms of cost, foam plastic is the cheapest, and its thermal resistance is high, as is its ability to repel moisture. One problem is that the material is flammable. Therefore, for those homeowners who are concerned about the fire safety of their home, it is better to buy mineral wool based on basalt fiber. Only mineral wool absorbs moisture well, so you will need to provide for its removal, which will be discussed below.

A few words about glass wool, which is also quite suitable for thermal insulation of an attic. It doesn't burn either, but high temperature cannot withstand, the material becomes charred at 200 °C or more. If you plan to make the attic space residential, then glass wool has no place there at all, it is harmful to human health.

Insulation with mineral wool

As mentioned above, mineral wool is a porous material that can absorb moisture and also allow vapor to pass through it. Even if this insulation is protected on both sides with a vapor-proof film, then due to the temperature difference outside and inside the house, a dew point will appear in the thickness of the wool. As a result, condensation will begin to form from the air that is already in the open pores of the material.

When insulating an attic with mineral wool with your own hands, you need to learn one rule: the insulation is insulated from moisture only on one side - the inside, and the outside is definitely needed ventilation gap(breath). Thanks to it, moisture will be removed from the wool, thereby maintaining its thermal insulation properties.

Also, glass and mineral wool are afraid of direct contact with water, which is why they instantly get wet and cease to be insulation. This means that on the street side it must be protected from wind and precipitation, while ensuring that water vapor escapes in the same direction. This is why it is more difficult to insulate an attic with mineral wool than with foam plastic, which is vapor-tight. The diagram below shows the correct “pie” of thermal insulation of the inclined walls of the attic from the inside:

As can be seen in the diagram, the insulation is laid in the openings between the rafters, but first it is laid between the rafter boards and the roofing covering waterproofing film – diffusion membrane. It is this that protects the mineral wool from direct moisture, allowing all vapors to pass out into the air, from where they are carried away by ventilation air. The vent must be arranged under the entire plane roofing covering, as shown in the diagram:

Since the diffusion membrane is at the same time a protection against water that can enter its surface from the outside through cracks in the slate, the film sheets should be laid out horizontally on top of the rafters, starting from the bottom. The canvases are laid with an overlap of 100 mm, and the joints are sealed with tape. When it comes to insulating an old house, where the slate is nailed to the sheathing boards without a membrane, you will have to install it in strips vertically between the rafters.

Important. The membrane strips must be fastened to the side surface of the rafter board using a stapler and as often as possible, leaving a 5 cm wide air vent on top.

The next stage is laying the insulation directly into the gap between the rafters, for which it is cut into strips whose width is a couple of centimeters larger than this gap. By the way, mineral wool manufacturers make slabs 600 mm wide and rolls 1200 mm wide, adapting to the standard spacing of rafter boards. In this case, additional fastening of the insulation is not required; then a vapor barrier film is laid and installed interior decoration.

Like the sloping walls of the attic, the gables also need insulation. But here the composition of the “pie” depends on building material of this roof element. If it is made of brick or timber, then it would be more correct to insulate the gable of the attic from the outside, guided by the following diagram:

It is clear that such thermal insulation implies external insulation of the entire house, which is not always possible for various reasons. Then we continue to insulate the attic from the inside, installing it vertically on brick wall wooden beams for further installation of insulation. Before doing this, do not forget to lay a diffusion membrane under the beams. The same is done if the pediment has an old design - wooden frame with outer cladding made of clapboard. The insulation “pie” then looks like this:

Note. The same “pie” is used for internal insulation brick gable of the attic. Masonry plays a role here external cladding from the boards shown in the diagram.

Foam insulation

It should be noted that insulating an attic with polystyrene foam is somewhat easier than with mineral wool. Primarily due to the vapor permeability of this insulation, so it is not necessary to install an internal vapor barrier. But a diffusion membrane and ventilation are needed in any case, because wood also participates in the “pie,” which must also release moisture somewhere. So the first stage of do-it-yourself attic insulation is repeated as described in the previous section.

Foam plastic with a density of 25 kg/m3 is cut so that it can be tightly inserted between the rafters. Then all joints should be blown out with polyurethane foam, which prevents air circulation through the cracks and provides additional fastening of the insulation. Then everything is simple: the interior trim made of plasterboard or other facing material is attached to the rafter boards.

Thermal insulation of gables is carried out in the same way. It should be noted that this technology can also be used when insulating an attic with extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex). This modern insulation has higher performance than polystyrene foam, including strength. If there is a need to lay penoplex in 2 layers, the second can be attached to the first with ordinary self-tapping screws and glued with polyurethane glue.

Insulation of ventilation pipes in the attic

In modern private homes, the attic is often technical floor, where are located ventilation units and pipes for moving air - air ducts. If the temperature there is significantly lower than in the premises, then the air ducts must be insulated and here’s why:

• The air passing through them is heated by energy carriers paid for by the homeowner. It is unacceptable for air to waste heat in a cold attic;
• due to temperature differences inside and outside the air ducts, condensation will constantly be released.

The cheapest way to insulate ventilation pipes is to buy rolled mineral wool and wrap it around the air duct, securing it with twine.

After which the layer of mineral wool is covered with special foil to prevent moisture from entering. But in compressed form the thermal resistance roll insulation decreases, so it is better to use ready-made foam shells. They are placed on the air duct on both sides and secured with knitting wire.

Ventilation pipes rectangular section It is most convenient to insulate with self-adhesive material made of foamed polyethylene. This is an excellent vapor-tight insulation, one side of which is covered with a sticky layer that adheres well to the metal surface.

Conclusion

In fact, there are more materials and methods for insulating an attic, but we have listed the most affordable ones for doing it yourself. For example, a layer of polyurethane foam does not require any “pie” at all, but it can only be applied if special units are available. So at the moment, polystyrene foam with mineral wool remain the most popular insulation materials, as well as the technology for their use.

Even if the winter has dragged on and the weather is not pleasant, converting a cold attic into an attic should not be put off until better times. But, given our difficult climate, maximum attention will have to be paid to insulation.

A cold attic is untapped potential, a space that works at best as a storage area for forgotten and unnecessary items. Attic - potential realized the way you need: a romantic bedroom, a cozy living room, game room, bathroom with stunning views of the surrounding area. There are other differences as well.

How to turn an attic into an attic?

Large-scale alterations of a private house or cottage are regarded by law as reconstruction requiring approval. Reconstruction is considered to be such actions that change the parameters of the house as a whole - volume, number of floors, height, appearance. Without approval and changes to the documents, you can only insulate the roof; it is permissible to insulate the floor and ceilings of a cold attic. Installing windows is also considered a renovation, as is replacing load-bearing structures.

An obligatory stage is a preliminary check of the capabilities of the house. Only project documentation and expertise construction company will make it possible to say with confidence that the foundation, walls and rafter system will withstand the increased load.

Attention:

It is possible to arrange a full-fledged residential attic if the height of the attic exceeds 1.8 meters. Otherwise, you will have to change the roof truss structure. A compromise option for a low attic that does not require reconstruction is a children's playroom or a bathroom without a shower.

How to properly insulate a cold attic?

If your intentions are serious, easy installation batteries in the attic won't help. You will have to start with a large-scale inspection of the entire roof and ceilings. Only complete and high quality insulation and cold attic insulation will transform an abandoned floor into a beloved attic.

Cold-type roofing, conceived during the construction of a house with uninhabited attic, differs in design from warm. Essentially, it represents rafter system, on top of which the waterproofing and the roof itself are laid. The air in the attic in this design plays the role of a buffer, reducing heat loss in the house. When converting an attic into an attic, the roof must be brought into compliance with the changed requirements.

IN warm roof With complete insulation stingrays have a so-called roofing pie» from layers:

External covering. Metal tiles, slate, ondulin, corrugated sheets, ceramic, cement-sand, slate, bitumen, composite tiles. Sheet materials they cost less and are easier to install, but last less; piece ones, like tiles, insulate a house better, last a long time, but are more expensive.

Waterproofing. Protects the entire structure and insulation layer from rain, snow, and moisture.

Ventilation gap. Provides natural ventilation roofs and removes moisture.

Thermal insulation. Retains heat and reduces heat loss.

Vapor barrier. Protects insulation and rafters from moisture from the room. Especially if you are planning a kitchen in the attic.

Interior decoration. Lining, timber, plywood, other materials.

Attention:

In order for the microclimate in the attic to be optimal in any weather, all surfaces are needed - floor, ceiling, walls and slopes. This is also important from the point of view of sound insulation: noise on top floor should not disturb the inhabitants of the lower floor, and the sound of drops on the roof should not wake up those sleeping in the attic.

How to choose material?

All insulation materials are divided into several groups according to physical properties:

Monolithic or massive laid on the ceiling in large blocks. Reliable option, there are fewer joints, but the removal of excess moisture from the air is blocked, and condensation may appear.

Fibrous or porous. Spaces internal structure fill air bubbles that retain heat. Classic example- mineral wool, the most common insulation material for private homes.

Bulk insulation- for example, expanded clay and sawdust; create a dense heat-insulating layer, allowing surfaces to “breathe”. But expanded clay is heavy, and sawdust is difficult to work with.

Important parameters of all insulation that need to be taken into account are cost and ease of installation, weight that does not place a significant load on supporting structures, resistance to moisture, fire and environmental friendliness. Let's compare the pros and cons of the most common insulation materials.

Material
	Lightweight, cheap, environmentally friendly.	It rots and is easily flammable. Used in ceilings.
Expanded clay	Does not burn, does not rot, retains heat well.	Very heavy. Applicable in flat roofs and floors.
Expanded polystyrene, polyurethane foam	Lightweight, retains heat, protects from noise, moisture resistant, does not shrink	Expensive and difficult to install. It is used in ceilings, facades and flat roofs.
Mineral wool	Inexpensive, easy to install. Resistant to fire, rodents and mold. Protects against noise and retains heat. It weighs little.	Humidification leads to a decrease in thermal insulation qualities. It is used in walls, partitions, ceilings and pitched roofs.
	Retains heat well and protects from noise. Contains borax to kill mold. “Breathes” because it is made from environmentally friendly cellulose. Thermal conductivity changes much more slowly when moistened than that of mineral wool.	Humidification changes properties. Combustible material. Used in walls and ceilings.

Attention:

In most cases, in terms of price-quality ratio, mineral wool is the most reasonable insulation option for a cold attic.

Insulation technologies

The method and sequence of actions depend on the selected insulation. For example, ecowool is laid “dry”, directly on the surface of the floors, or “wet”, by spraying a special glue mixture using equipment. Insulating a cold attic with polystyrene foam involves installing the material with glue or screws and strengthening it with a frame made of profiles. Sawdust is mixed with cement, poured into cells made of beams treated with an antiseptic and left to dry.

The general sequence of insulating a cold attic:

1. All major work goes along with the installation of insulation.
2. Windows are installed after installing waterproofing and before installing insulation and vapor barriers.
3. First, waterproofing is laid on the internal planes of the roof, walls and floor.
4. Then the rafter system is covered with waterproofing material.
5. Install thermal insulation, fibrous materials covered with a vapor barrier.
6. Then the attic windows are insulated, paying special attention to the space under the window sill and slopes.
7. Finally, it’s time to finish the surfaces.

Attention:

laying of communications occurs at the roughing stage insulation works. It is important to consider two points: the fire hazard of the selected material and the importance of urgent access to communications. So, when choosing fire hazardous materials like foam plastic and ecowool, it is reasonable to make the wiring external. And if you have chosen short-lived sewer pipes, which may have to be replaced after some time, access to them will be easier if the attic is insulated with sheet and soft materials.

Heating and attic decoration

Laying thermal insulation is not enough if you plan to use the attic all year round. Additional heating will be required, installation of stairs from the lower floor and, of course, installation of windows for constant access to natural light.
If the house has a heating system, you can connect to it while insulating the attic. Don't forget to check what power the boiler is designed for and whether it can withstand the increase in load, especially if there is a room upstairs such as a bathroom, laundry room or kitchen.
Electric batteries and infrared heaters do not require installation, they can be moved from place to place.
Warm floors warm up the attic well throughout the entire area, unlike radiators and heaters. Electric floors consume electricity, but are easier to install. Water-heated floors are more difficult to install, but they are less expensive to operate. Both options are suitable for wooden houses with an attic.

Do not forget to arrange a staircase that is comfortable for constant use, highlighting enough large area downstairs, in the corridor or hall. Optimal slope 30-40 degrees will be provided by a step depth of 20-25 and a height of about 15 centimeters. The height of the ceiling above the stairs must be at least two meters, the width of the stairs must be at least a meter.

What could go wrong?

Even if you have thought through the reconstruction, from the legal aspects to the careful selection of materials, the process itself is always unpredictable. Keep your finger on the pulse of repairs, if not always, then at least at control points.

Vapor barrier:

The vapor barrier membrane is installed differently depending on the ceiling design.

If the roof does not have a high-quality vapor barrier layer, or it is made carelessly, with gaps, any evaporation will inevitably completely or partially fall into the thermal insulation layer of mineral wool and turn into water there. In winter, the moisture will freeze and then reappear as leaks. You will have to isolate.

Laying insulation:

You cannot lay mineral wool without a vapor barrier; it is important to leave a gap to drain excess moisture between the thermal insulation and the roof when installing the sheathing;

The main mistakes when laying fibrous or monolithic insulation are usually associated with incorrectly selected width or thickness of the material.

The gaps between the insulation and the beams will become “cold bridges”. If the material is inflexible, like polystyrene foam, the joints are filled with polyurethane foam during insulation of a cold attic.

Window installation:

Dormer windows require highly qualified installers.

It is necessary to insulate windows: otherwise all efforts at thermal insulation will be nullified.

Reminder for insulating a cold attic

1. If insulation occurs with the installation of windows, the transfer of load-bearing structures, or the alteration of the roof, it must be approved. Simple attic insulation does not need to be approved. If the height of the attic is less than 1.8 meters, its full use will be difficult.

2. Check if the house is ready for attic reconstruction. Will the foundation support the additional load? Is the heating boiler prepared to heat new rooms?

3. When choosing insulation, pay attention not only to its cost and ease of installation, but also to weight, environmental friendliness and durability. Perhaps the best solution for you would be a combination different materials on the ceiling, floor and ceilings of a cold attic.

4. Don't forget to choose skylights And optional equipment for them, for example, the possibility of automatic closing in the rain.

5. Select a method for heating the new attic and think in advance about how the stairs to the attic floor will be installed.

6. Flaws in attic insulation can lead to drafts, leaks, high humidity in room. Finding the source of problems is more difficult than preventing problems in advance during the attic renovation stage.