Is it necessary to insulate a non-residential attic from the inside if the ceiling is insulated with mineral wool? Insulating the roof of a wooden house from the inside Insulating the roof of a one-story house
Builders often charge a lot of money for roof insulation work. This is motivated by the fact that this is labor-intensive work that is carried out by weight. To save money,wooden house you can do it yourself. No special qualifications are needed here, no special equipment is required. And it doesn’t matter whether your roof is made of ondulin, metal tiles or slate, gable or broken structure. However, modern insulation materials and proven insulation technology cold roof has many nuances that you need to know.
Make the roof warm and the premises of a private wooden house suitable for year-round residence, not difficult. The main thing is to create good conditions for maintaining heat inside the attic. How to insulate a roof and what materials to use will be discussed in this article. Insulation issues can be resolved both during the construction of a house and after, during reconstruction top floor.
In accordance with the laws of physics and convection processes, warm air masses rise upward. In the presence of cold roof of a wooden house, all the heat will go outside. Such heat loss forces additional heating of rooms in the house, wasting electricity or fuel. That's why high-quality insulation ceiling coverings is the most important task for heat conservation, rational use coolants and creating a microclimate in the house.
Cold is the design of a gable or sloping roof that does not have a multilayer structure. Such inexpensive and simple roofs lack waterproofing, vapor barrier and thermal insulation.
The design diagram of a gable cold roof is very simple - as a rule, a floor made of boards is laid on the wooden floor beams, and the roof is made of slate or metal tiles, without any insulators.
In order to properly insulate a cold roof, you need to know what requirements apply to the design of the upper floor ceiling and attic floors. You should also choose the right insulation material.
Requirements for roof slabs When starting to insulate a roof made of ondulin, slate or metal tiles, broken or hip, you should know what and rules exist for the ceilings of a private wooden house. In order not to violate the basic parameters that must be met by the attic design, ceiling insulation andinsulation mansard roof from the insideshould be carried out taking into account the basic requirements. For attic floors and ceilings, this is strength and compliance with fire safety standards.
The strength of the attic floors must correspond to the nature of the roof space. If there is an attic in the attic, then the floors must support the weight of the floors, furniture and people in it. Floor beams must not bend, and the permissible load cannot exceed 100 kg per square meter.
The second basic requirement is fire safety, which is especially important for a wooden house. All structural elements must be treated with special fire retardant compounds.
Types of heat-insulating materials
To properly insulate the structure wooden ceiling and the entire metal tile roof uses a variety of thermal insulators.
Main types:
- polystyrene foam and penoplex;
- mineral wool;
- ecowool;
- glass wool;
- Fiberboard;
- foamed polyurethane;
Each of the listed insulation materials has its own pros and cons. The choice of insulation for the ceiling and for metal tiles depends on a variety of factors. Therefore, you should familiarize yourself with each type of heat insulator in more detail in order to understand the best way to insulate the ceiling and the entire upper floor.
Budget insulation options
In addition to those listed, there are inexpensive bulk insulation materials. Such materials are also usedinsulation of attic roof. Bulk heat insulators include:
- sawdust and shavings;
- expanded clay;
- slag;
- ecowool.
Advice!
To prevent insulation crumbs from spilling through the cracks of the wooden floor, you can lay plastic film.
But remember that there will be no vapor barrier, since polyethylene does not allow moisture to pass through, which can condense in the room on the top floor. Backfill insulation requires calculations of the strength of the floors. It is necessary to make sure that the beams will withstand the considerable weight of bulk insulation, as well as slate or metal tiles.
Another economical option ceiling insulation - laying corrugated cardboard. Sheets of material are attached with self-tapping screws or construction staples to the attic floor. Joints and seams are sealed polyurethane foam. Electrical wiring is stored in corrugated channels, protecting wooden structures from fire.
General scheme of ceiling insulation
Roof and ceiling structures are the most vulnerable elements to heat loss in a home. They account for from 15 to 40 percent of the total heat transfer of the house, regardless of the roofing material - metal tiles or slate. In addition, to create a comfortable climate in the house, a vapor barrier must be made to protect the insulation from fumes, and the ceiling and attic floor must also be waterproofed.
It is recommended to carry out the insulation of a wooden house in a comprehensive manner, arranging thermal insulation of the roof from the inside and the ceiling at the same time. This will save on insulation material, since two ten-centimeter layers of thermal insulation with an air gap in the attic space replace a layer of the same insulation 25-30 cm thick. This saves about forty percent of thermal insulation. External insulation ceiling with simultaneous thermal insulation of the roof from the attic side will give good effect
and will avoid dampening of the lower rooms. Such thermal insulation can be carried out without dismantling the metal roof and the ceiling of the upper floor.
Features of ceiling insulation
They consist in the fact that when installing thermal insulation, there is no way to organize the removal of condensate, which is formed due to the difference in temperatures of the attic and lower rooms. In addition, depending on the time of year, there is a change in warm and cold sides. Therefore, when installing thermal insulation for a wooden ceiling, it is necessary to ensure the complete absence of condensation on the insulation.
Advice!
You can prevent the formation of condensation by laying a special vapor barrier - a film material that allows moisture to pass in one direction.
It should be laid in such a way that there is a gap between the insulating material and the film. It should be noted that when insulating the ceiling great importance It has correct application
release film. Below we will look at their varieties.
Membranes and separation films Modern technologies make it possible to use more and more diverse different materials allowing the passage or repulsion of water, steam and other substances. Glassine, roofing felt and tar, proven for years, used on slate roofs or metal roofs, fade into the background and are rarely used. Technological insulating films membrane type much lighter, more convenient to use and, importantly, perform their function more purposefully and effectively. In addition, they are reliable, strong and durable, and their thickness is much smaller. Important
Integrated insulating materials can be divided into two groups.
1) Vapor barrier. For this purpose, so-called vapor barriers are used - thin-layer materials that do not allow evaporation to pass through. In turn, they can be:
- film;
- foil;
- foil with capillary substrate (folgoizol).
2) Waterproofing. It is carried out using materials that do not allow moisture and any liquids to pass through, called membranes. Are divided into:
- simple film with one layer;
- micro-perforated with steam penetration in both directions;
- superdiffusive, with vapor permeation in one direction.
Vapor barrier is best achieved using film polypropylene materials, the thickness of which is from 55 microns. Polyethylene films are poorly suited for protection against evaporation, since, regardless of the thickness, they allow air to pass through due to their structural features.
Important!
PVC film is sensitive to temperature changes and changes in humidity; over time, it may not perform its role well, and even crack.
For a foil vapor barrier, polyethylene can be used as a base, since the foil prevents the penetration of vapors.
Waterproofing can be done with a simple polyethylene film.
Important!
But polyethylene is suitable only in heated houses with slate or metal roofing.
When insulating the ceiling of a cold roof, you need a film with micro-perforation and a three-layer reinforced coating. The reinforcing layer will prevent the film from sagging and will provide a ventilation gap.
Thus, having studied the properties of insulating materials and the features of their use, we can come to the conclusion that waterproofing and thermal insulation of the cold ceiling of a house on our own- a completely doable task.
Proper insulation of the attic and attic ceiling
A flat roof is an inexpensive and practical way to equip any structure. Often it is erected above multi-storey residential buildings, industrial facilities, garages and extensions (verandas, terraces). In case of residential buildings A flat roof must be insulated, otherwise it will be of little use. This is exactly what we will talk about in today’s article - insulation flat roof with your own hands.
The need to insulate a roof, including a flat one, is obvious - any person familiar with the concept of convection from a school physics course should understand that the air, when heated, rushes upward. If he does not meet a worthy obstacle at the top, he will leave the room without hindrance. In other words, all efforts to heat a house under a flat roof will be nullified.
However, the beneficial aspects of roof insulation do not end there. In addition to the fact that thermal insulation delays warm air, it prevents the occurrence of sudden temperature changes inside the roofing pie. Let's turn to the same school physics course. When cold outdoor air encounters heated air rising from the home, the reaction creates condensation—tiny droplets of water. As condensation accumulates, it impregnates the layers of roofing pie and wooden elements, causing their rapid wear. For this reason, laying only insulation under the roof sheathing is not enough - it is necessary to protect it vapor barrier membrane, which will remove condensate from the thermal insulation and promote its rapid evaporation.
It turns out that the device for insulating a flat roof involves the use of not only thermal insulation material, but also a vapor barrier. The order of installation depends on the type of roof. Flat roofs come in classic and inversion styles. In the first case, the base is a load-bearing slab, on which a vapor barrier is laid, and then insulation. It, in turn, is covered with rolled bitumen-based waterproofing. It simultaneously protects the insulation from moisture and serves as a finishing coating. Such roofs can be found on multi-story buildings in any city. It is also worth mentioning that classic roofing can be used or not. As the name implies, you can use the exploited roof, that is, place equipment, furniture there, make add-ons, in general, use it to the full as an additional surface. The covering of an unused roof is not adapted to increased loads, but insulation of both types follows the same scenarios.
Inversion roofing in technical design is much more advanced than traditional roofing. First on load-bearing slab pour a layer of gravel, expanded clay or crushed stone. The thickness of the powder should be at least 5 cm. Waterproofing is placed on such a drainage pad, then insulation, everything is poured with concrete and the screed is covered finishing material. The main difference is in the installation of insulation over the waterproofing, which helps protect the hydrophobic layer from harmful ultraviolet rays, temperature changes and mechanical damage. As a result, an inversion flat roof lasts much longer than a traditional one and automatically becomes usable - a durable concrete screed (especially if it is reinforced) allows you to create areas for recreation and sports in the open air.
It should be borne in mind that the insulation, like all other layers of the roofing pie, will be exposed to Various types loads: weight of snow, wind force, mass of overlying materials, etc. Therefore, increased physical and mechanical requirements are placed on insulation for flat roofs. In addition, experts strongly recommend choosing the most hydrophobic material, since it is impossible to guarantee 100% protection from moisture. We'll talk more about choosing insulation a little later.
Methods for insulating flat roofs
Insulation of flat roofs is carried out according to one of two schemes: in one or two layers. Single-layer insulation is relevant for industrial buildings, garages and warehouses. Suitable for exploited and unexploited roofs (in the first case, reinforced concrete screed finishing layer). Placing the insulation in one plane provides moderate protection against condensation and excessive heat loss, however, only two-layer insulation can create a microclimate that is comfortable for a cozy life.
A two-layer insulation scheme, as you might guess, involves laying two layers of heat-insulating material in different planes. The bottom main layer should be thermally stable with low strength and a thickness of 70 to 170 mm. The top layer is responsible for distributing the mechanical load over the entire surface of the system. Its thickness is significantly less than that of the bottom layer, ranging from 30 to 50 mm, but at the same time it has high compressive and tensile strength. Such a functional distribution of two layers of insulation significantly reduces the mass of the roofing pie as a whole, thereby reducing the load exerted by the roof on the floors and foundation.
Choosing roof insulation
To insulate a flat roof from the outside, a variety of materials are used, but after studying the information above, we can already identify several main selection criteria. Firstly, maximum hydrophobicity. Secondly, strength and density. Thirdly, keep the weight as low as possible. Let's consider the materials used in modern construction.
Most often, backfill materials are used in urban and private construction due to their availability and low cost. We are talking about expanded clay (foamed under high pressure clay) and perlite (light coarse sand with good thermal insulation characteristics). Unfortunately, the advantages of these materials are limited by their low cost and availability - in other respects they are not able to compete with fiber or polymer insulation. They are relatively heavy, and using them to create a perfectly flat surface on a slight slope is quite difficult.
The second most popular are mineral wool boards and polystyrene foam. Mineral wool retains heat well, is easy to use, does not burn, but requires high-quality waterproofing - if it gets even a little wet, it will no longer protect against heat loss. Extruded polystyrene foam is not afraid of water, is characterized by high strength, ease of installation and relatively low cost. However, it is better to use it to create an inversion roof, since the material is very sensitive to ultraviolet radiation and is flammable.
Not long ago, mineral wool in slabs made from basalt rocks appeared on the market. It is much stronger in compression and tearing than older analogues, is not so afraid of water and allows you to create a fairly durable coating without installing a heavy concrete screed.
And finally, the newest, high-quality and expensive insulation material is polyurethane foam. A special composition is applied to the prepared surface by mechanical spraying, after which it foams, hardens and creates a durable waterproof crust that perfectly retains heat and is impervious to ultraviolet radiation. In the West, polyurethane foam has long been used to insulate roofs, including flat ones. In our latitudes its advantages have only just begun to be appreciated.
Positive aspects of using polyurethane foam for roof insulation:
- Very low thermal conductivity(polyurethane foam 0.022 W/m², mineral wool 0.055 W/m²);
- requires minimal surface preparation (clean of debris, no need to level or process);
- for high-quality insulation, a layer 5-6 cm thick is sufficient;
- absolutely seamless coating, which eliminates the formation of potentially risky areas of leaks and drafts;
- absolute hydrophobicity and vapor tightness (allows you to save on hydro- and vapor barrier);
- spraying can be used to create additional waterproofing;
- the high rigidity of the hardened coating allows you to install a concrete screed on top of it;
- relatively low density (does not place a strong load on load-bearing elements);
- environmental Safety;
- the ability to cover surfaces and objects of any shape (allows you to protect against leaks and heat loss problem areas pipe outlet);
- does not burn and does not support combustion;
- service life more than 25 years;
- high speed of work.
Thus, polyurethane foam replaces insulation, vapor and waterproofing. The only drawback is that you won’t be able to do this kind of work yourself, since this requires special equipment and skills in handling two-component material.
Insulation technology
It's time to tell you how to insulate a flat roof yourself. Because the disadvantages loose insulation materials do not allow us to talk about them as the best options for arrangement, we will touch on the use of mineral wool boards and extruded polystyrene foam.
Mineral wool slabs
Let us immediately make a reservation that not all mineral wool slabs can be used to insulate a flat roof in use or a classic one. soft roof. Basalt slabs, the fibers of which are directed in different directions, are best suited for this purpose - this allows them to withstand high loads. Of course, you can protect fragile insulation with a screed (dry or wet), but this will create additional load on the supporting structures.
Mineral wool insulation technology:
Video about insulating a flat roof with mineral wool:
Extruded polystyrene foam
Extruded polystyrene foam is highly durable and waterproof, and therefore is most often used for insulating inversion roofs. The slabs have slot locks that provide a very dense surface, but for greater reliability, it is recommended to glue all joints with construction tape.
The beauty of polystyrene foam is that working with it is very simple and quick:
- First, the slabs are laid on the base slab, gluing the joint gaps with construction tape. If it is necessary to lay the second layer, the slabs are installed “in a staggered manner.”
- Geotextiles are laid on top of the polystyrene foam insulation, designed to protect the lower layers of the cake from contamination and mechanical damage.
- A 5-10 cm layer of gravel or crushed stone is poured onto the geotextile. Sometimes, for additional drainage, a profiled membrane is laid between the geotextile and the powder.
- Finally, crushed stone or gravel is poured with a screed and the finishing coating is laid. If you plan to plant on an existing roof lawn grass or flowers, an additional layer of geotextile should be laid on top of the backfill, and then 15-20 cm of fertile soil should be poured.
Insulating a flat roof is not so easy, but this measure is considered necessary if you want to live in a warm house and not overpay for heating.
Roof insulation plays a huge role in completing construction work. Having built a house or cottage, you have to think about how to make the building as comfortable, warm and cozy as possible. Regardless of whether there will be living space in the attic or not, the roof must be insulated in any case. This will reduce heat loss and contribute to energy saving.
Do-it-yourself roof insulation
Roof insulation work does not have to be done with the help of a specialist; everything can be done with your own hands. The whole process should start with the selection necessary materials and creating a work plan and scheme. Any roof consists of an outer (roof) and an inner (floor and rafter frame) parts.
All insulation work carried out only after checking these components, and if necessary they are repaired. Then excess moisture is removed and dampness and mold are removed.
To prevent bacterial damage to wooden structures, the inner surface of the roof is treated with an antiseptic, and to protect metal structures from rust, treat such surfaces with anti-corrosion compounds.
Insulation materials
Modern manufacturers offer a large assortment materials for roof insulation. The most popular are:
- Mineral wool (fiberglass, stone slabs);
- Extruded polystyrene foam;
- Polyurethane foam.
The material you choose is determined by the features of the roof. For example, it is preferable to insulate pitched roofs with fiberglass.
Fiberglass
This material has excellent heat-insulating and sound-proofing properties. Fiberglass is also durable, its service life reaches fifty years, it is fire-resistant and vapor-permeable. And, of course, the price; purchasing such material is a very inexpensive pleasure.
The most popular materials in use are mineral wool and polystyrene foam. This popularity is due to the ease of manipulation with them.
Mineral wool
Depending on the original type of material (stone or glass), mineral wool is divided into two types:
— the fibrous structure of the material, formed by melting small particles of rock, as well as various slags and mixtures obtained in industrial metallurgy, makes the product truly unique.
The material is not afraid high temperatures, and is also quite resistant to aggressive chemicals. 
Glass wool- a heat-insulating material containing air fibers that are particularly durable. The product is obtained by melting ordinary glass. Like stone wool, the insulation is highly resistant to chemical products and does not burn.
The thermal conductivity of glass wool is 0.05 W/m°C at 25°C. During operation, glass wool practically does not shrink, and its fibrous structure, even after a long period of time, remains the same elastic and elastic. 
Mineral wool has excellent characteristics in the following indicators:
- Low thermal conductivity;
- Excellent sound insulation;
- Fire resistance, which is very important for roof material;
- Highly environmentally friendly and durable.
Foam plastic and penoplex
Both insulation materials have a fairly small specific gravity, so their use does not weigh down the roof, and also does not require additional use a material that insulates from steam, since neither polystyrene nor foam absorb moisture.
Polyurethane foam
One of modern materials is .
It does not need to be glued or nailed to the surface, but is applied by spraying onto it. This material has excellent adhesion to surfaces and as a result a durable, seamless structure is formed that does not allow cold or moisture to pass through.
Insulating the ceiling in a house with a cold roof
Once the materials have been selected, you can proceed directly to the process of laying the material. The specifics of this process depend on the roof design and the future use of the attic.
If the attic is not intended to be used as a living space, then the insulating material is placed on the attic floor between the joists, and not between the roof rafters. A membrane is laid on top to improve vapor permeability, then it can be covered with any floor covering. 
To prevent the formation of “cold bridges”, the insulation should fit as tightly as possible to the joists. To do this, when cutting insulation, its size must be determined according to 1-2 cm. wider than the distance between the joists.
Insulating the attic from the inside
If you decide to equip the attic as a living space, you should insulate the roof with your own hands using a different technology:
- Initially laid waterproofing layer, to protect the insulating material from getting wet. To do this, a waterproofing membrane is laid on top of the sheathing and secured with counter-lattice bars;
- Then the insulation itself is laid between the rafters. To avoid the formation of gaps, during installation you should follow the same technology as when insulating the ceiling - the insulation should be wider by 1-2 cm.
- As a vapor-permeable layer, a vapor barrier film is attached on top of the insulation and overlapped at the joints;
- The film is secured on top with bars, which will serve as the basis for the finishing.
How and with what to insulate a flat roof
Insulation of a flat roof takes place according to a slightly different scheme. The beginning of work is the determination of the purpose of the room. The intended use of the attic as a gym or some other place for entertainment suggests that the roof must be really strong to withstand serious loads.
- To form a slight roof slope on reinforced concrete slab make a cement screed;
- Then, as in the case of a pitched roof, a waterproofing layer is laid;
- Upon completion of these works, everything is covered on top with a layer of heat-insulating material (foam plastic, stone wool, extruded polystyrene foam, etc.), on top of which a layer of fiberglass or geotextile is laid.
- And the final stage is the filling of pebbles or a layer of gravel and the subsequent laying of floor or paving slabs.
If there is no living space under the roof, then the vapor barrier layer and insulation are laid in the attic, and the waterproofing layer is placed under the roofing material. And in case of complete non-use of the attic space of a flat roof, insulation is carried out either from the inside or from the outside.
By insulating your roof, you will not only get additional square meters, but also reliable protection for your home from severe frosts in winter and sultry heat in summer.
When building a house or reconstructing it, most often its owners come to the conclusion that the roof and ceiling must be insulated in order to prevent loss of thermal energy. To insulate the roof of a wooden house from the inside, you need to choose the right thermal insulation material and install it, following the technology.
It has long been established through experience and calculations that heat losses occur through every element of a house’s structure. For example, from 20 to 30% of the heat is lost through the attic floor and roof, which means that the same part of the amount paid for its burning is wasted. Therefore, having once invested in high-quality insulation of your home, you can save on heating for all subsequent years.
It should be noted that if the house is located in a region with a mild winter climate, then many home owners prefer to insulate only the attic floor. However, roof insulation in different time year is capable of performing three functions:
— in winter it keeps the house warm;
- in summer it does not allow the attic to heat up, which means the house will be cool;
— in addition, insulation is an excellent sound insulator, so the rooms will always be quiet, even during heavy rain and with any type of roofing.
Based on these arguments, we can conclude that it is best to insulate and soundproof not only the attic floor, but also the roof itself.
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Types of insulation for roof structures
The choice of insulation must also be made with skill, taking into account the technical and operational characteristics of the material. In this case, special attention should be paid to the following:
- Low thermal conductivity.
- Increased moisture resistance.
- Low flammability.
- Environmental cleanliness.
- Durability of the material.
The materials used to insulate the roof and attic floor from the inside include:
- Mineral wool in slabs and rolls.
- Ecowool made on a cellulose basis.
- Expanded polystyrene (foam plastic).
- Penoizol and sprayed polyurethane foam.
- Expanded clay of different fractions (insulation of floors).
In addition, traditionally such natural materials, such as straw, slag, sawdust and dry leaves. Some builders still use these insulation materials today, but they require special treatment, since they are not moisture resistant, which means putrefactive processes and the formation of microflora colonies are possible in them.
All materials used for thermal insulation of the roof are relatively light in weight, so they will slightly add weight to the rafter and ceiling structure.
This table presents the main characteristics of the most popular insulation materials today:
| Material parameters | Materials | Thickness, mm | |||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 50 | 60 | 80 | 100 | 120 | 150 | 200 | 250 | ||
| Density, kg/m³ | Mineral wool | 100-120 | |||||||
| Expanded polystyrene | 25-35 | ||||||||
| Polyurethane foam | 54-55 | ||||||||
| Thermal resistance, (m²°K)/W | Mineral wool | 1.19 | 1.43 | 1.9 | 2.38 | 2.86 | 3.57 | 4.76 | 5.95 |
| Expanded polystyrene | 1.35 | 1.62 | 2.16 | 2.7 | 3.24 | 4.05 | 5.41 | 6.76 | |
| Polyurethane foam | 1.85 | 2.22 | 2.96 | 3.7 | 4.44 | 5.56 | 7.41 | 9.26 | |
| Thermal conductivity coefficient, W/(m×°K) | Mineral wool | 0,038-0,052 | |||||||
| Expanded polystyrene | 0.037 | ||||||||
| Polyurethane foam | 0.027 | ||||||||
| Weight 1 m², kg | Mineral wool | 15.2 | 15.8 | 17.6 | 20.9 | 23.2 | 26.7 | 32.4 | 38.2 |
| Expanded polystyrene | 9.8 | 10 | 10.5 | 11 | 11.5 | 12.3 | 13.5 | 14.8 | |
| Polyurethane foam | 11.2 | 11.7 | 12.8 | 13.9 | 15 | 16.6 | 19.3 | 22 | |
Mineral wool
Mineral wool is most often used to insulate roof structures, since this material is easy to install and is well suited in its parameters for thermal insulation of attic spaces in a wooden house.
One of the most comfortable materials- mineral wool
Since this material is made from different raw materials, its characteristics and prices vary somewhat. And to choose the best option, you need to consider each of its types:
- Slag wool is produced from blast furnace slag and consists of fibers 5 ÷ 12 microns thick and 14 ÷ 16 mm long. This option is the most unsuitable for insulating an attic, so don’t be fooled by its low cost, since the insulation will have to be done again in a couple of years.
Slag wool is quite hygroscopic, which means it absorbs moisture well and, once saturated with it, it settles and loses its thermal insulation qualities. In addition, it has low heat resistance and is classified G4. This insulation can withstand temperatures of only 300–320 degrees, which is a low indicator for its use in wooden structures.
The thermal conductivity of the material is 0.48 ÷ 0.52 W/m×°K, which is much lower than that of the other two types of mineral wool. During installation, you will notice that the slag fibers are quite fragile, brittle and brittle. Therefore, this type is best for residential premises mineral wool do not apply.
- Glass wool. This type of insulation is made from molten sand and broken glass. The thickness of the fibers is 4 ÷ 15 microns, and the length is 14 ÷ 45 mm - these parameters give the material elasticity and strength. The random arrangement of fibers promotes airiness and improves the insulating qualities of the heat insulator.
Improved modern glass wool is designed on for heating up to 460 ÷ 500 degrees, which is much higher than that of slag wool. The thermal conductivity of this type of mineral wool is 0.030 ÷ 0.048 W/m×°K.
Glass wool is widely used for insulating stone buildings; it is also suitable for the roof of a wooden house. If thermally insulated attic option under-roof space, then glass wool is often used in combination with polyurethane foam.
Due to the fact that glass wool fibers are very thin, brittle and brittle, they easily penetrate the fabric and can get into the mucous membranes of the eyes or into the respiratory tract. Therefore, starting installation work, you should protect yourself protective equipment, wearing a suit made of thick fabric, special glasses, a respirator and gloves.
- Basalt (stone) wool is made from mountain gabbro - basalt breeds The thermal conductivity of basalt insulation is 0.032 ÷ 0.05 W/m×°K, the material can withstand temperatures up to 550 ÷ 600 degrees.
Working with stone wool is much easier, since its fibers are not so brittle and thorny, their thickness ranges from 3.5 to 5 microns, length from 3 to 5 mm. They are located chaotically and their interlacing gives the insulation good strength, so the material is quite resistant to mechanical damage.
Prices for basalt wool
basalt wool
Besides, basalt insulation inert to chemical influences and tolerates the destructive influence of the external environment.
All types of mineral wool for insulating surfaces are produced in rolls or mats (blocks) of different sizes. Today at construction stores you can find foil material that is more effective for insulation, since foil reflects and retains heat indoors.
The main disadvantage of all types of mineral wool is the fiber binding substance, which is often made on the basis of phenol-formaldehyde resin. It constantly releases toxic substances into the air that are dangerous to human health. Therefore, it is impossible to call any type of mineral wool absolutely environmentally friendly.
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Expanded polystyrene
Expanded polystyrene has become the most popular material for insulating houses, and all this is due to its affordability and ease of installation. But for that to the attic was thoroughly insulated, without the formation of cold bridges, it is necessary to ensure a tight fit of the heat insulator to the surfaces, which is difficult to achieve using polystyrene foam, since it does not have the proper flexibility. Therefore, it is combined with other insulation materials, including sprayed polyurethane foam.
Plates of ordinary polystyrene foam - polystyrene foam (left), and extruded
Polystyrene foam has an average thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.037 W/(m×°K), but it also depends on the density of the material, as well as its thickness.
Moisture absorption ordinary polystyrene foam is up to 2%, which significantly exceeds this parameter for extruded polystyrene foam - here the threshold is about 0.4% of the total volume of material.
Prices for expanded polystyrene
expanded polystyrene
The most dangerous quality of expanded polystyrene is its flammability, and when ignited, the material melts, simultaneously creating thick smoke. The smoke emanating from it is extremely toxic and hazardous to health.
Therefore, when choosing this insulation, it is necessary to take into account all its positive and negative properties and protect the house as much as possible from possible emergency situations. Particular attention will need to be paid to reliable insulation of the wiring and proper installation of chimney ducts (pipes).
Polyurethane foam
Polyurethane foam is applied to roofing and ceiling structures by spraying with help special equipment. Spraying is carried out in several layers, so the coating can be quite thick. With this method of application, polyurethane foam penetrates into all cracks and crevices, so the insulating layer will be completely sealed. As the insulation hardens and expands, it acquires high density, and its thermal conductivity is only 0.027 W/(m×°K), at moisture absorption no more than 0.2% of the total volume of material. This means that there is no loss of its thermal insulation qualities.
Sprayed polyurethane foam quickly expands and hardens, and its excess is easily cut off with a sharp knife, which adds convenience in adjusting the finished coating to the level of the rafter system for further finishing or roofing work.
By using this material, you can avoid waterproofing, wind protection and vapor barrier - it copes well with the whole range of problems, without retaining steam or allowing moisture to enter the room.
Polyurethane foam can be sprayed onto any surface: horizontal, vertical or inclined, as it has high adhesion to all building materials.
Ecowool
Ecowool is made from small particles of cellulose. Laying this material can be done in a “dry” or “wet” way.
Environmentally friendly material - ecowool
- In the first case, the insulation is scattered between the floor beams and compacted as far as possible by rolling. In this way on the walls and roofing structures installation will not be possible.
- For the “wet” installation method, special equipment is required, where the dry substance is mixed with adhesives and then distributed under pressure using a pipe onto the floors and walls.
“Wet” laying of ecowool
- Another option for insulating ecowool is to fill the space between rafter legs, after attaching them finishing material, for example, drywall or wooden lining. In this case, you need to correctly calculate the amount of material - it will depend on the height of the rafters, which will determine the thickness of the thermal insulation.
Ecowool has a number of advantages over other insulation materials, and these include the following:
- This is an environmentally friendly material that does not emit environment no harmful fumes.
- Ecowool is able to “preserve” surfaces, preventing fungal and putrefactive formations from developing.
- If during the operation of the house it turns out that the thickness of the insulating layer on the roof is insufficient, then it can be increased or the already laid material can be compacted.
- Installation of insulation is carried out quite quickly.
- Ecowool has a long service life without loss of original thermal insulation qualities.
- Cellulose insulation material necessarily treated with fire retardants, therefore it has very low flammability and a tendency to self-extinguish. In addition, ecowool does not produce smoke, and even more so, it does not emit substances hazardous to the human body.
- Ecowool applied to any surface forms a seamless, hermetic coating of the required thickness.
- The insulation is a “breathable” material, so it does not retain moisture.
- The payback period for such insulation is one to three years.
The table below shows the comparative digital characteristics of two environmentally friendly pure materials- ecowool and expanded clay, which will be discussed below and discussed below.
| Material parameters | Expanded clay gravel | Ecowool (cellulose) |
|---|---|---|
| Thermal conductivity coefficient, W/(m°K) | 0,016-0,018 | 0,038-0,041 |
| Density, kg/m³ | 200-400 | 42-75 |
| Density of connection to the structure | Depending on the faction: | Tight fit, seals all cracks and cracks well |
| - 15-20 mm - presence of voids; | ||
| - 5-10 mm - tight fit. | ||
| Linear shrinkage | absent | |
| Vapor permeability mg/Pa×m×h | 0.3 | 0.67 |
| Chemical inertness | neutral | |
| Flammability | incombustible | G1-G2 (lowly flammable material, because it is treated with fire retardants |
| Moisture absorption,% by weight | 10-25 | 14-16 |
Expanded clay
Expanded clay is very often used to insulate the attic floor of a wooden house. Of course, the rafter system is made of expanded clay thermally insulate difficult, but pouring it between the floor beams onto previously prepared surfaces will not be difficult.
This material is made from specially prepared clay, subjected to high temperature heat treatment. Expanded clay is produced in four fractions, starting from expanded clay sand and ending with large elements measuring 20 ÷ 30 mm.
| Fraction, mm | Bulk density, kg/m³ | Total density of material, kg/m³ | Compressive strength MPa |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 - 4 | 400 | 800 - 1200 | 2,0 - 3,0 |
| 4 - 10 | 335 - 350 | 550 - 800 | 1,2 - 1,4 |
| 10 - 30 | 200 - 250 | 450 - 650 | 0,9 - 1,1 |
Prices for expanded clay
expanded clay
Advantages of this material:
- Ecological cleanliness. It does not cause allergic reactions and does not release toxic substances into the surrounding atmosphere.
- The insulation does not lose its original thermal insulation qualities throughout the entire period of operation.
- For insulation, you can choose a material of a suitable fraction - the density of the backfill will depend on this. The finer the fraction, the denser the backfill.
- Expanded clay is non-flammable material, which is a very important quality for wooden structure. This insulation insulates chimney pipes from wooden floors, pouring it into a box built around them.
- Another important advantage of this material is that it is not tolerated by domestic rodents. If the house is on suburban area, then mice may well live in it even in the attic, and some insulation materials create for this purpose quite suitable conditions– but not expanded clay!
You might be interested in information about what it is
Auxiliary materials
In addition to thermal insulation materials, the insulating “pie” uses waterproofing (windproof) and vapor barrier films.
- Waterproofing is necessary to protect insulation against condensation, which can be collected between the heat insulator and the roof. In addition, this material performs a windproof function, preventing cold, dust and moisture from getting from the air directly onto the insulation, as well as into the attic.
This membrane must have steam-permeable ability - excess moisture in the insulation will simply evaporate into the atmosphere.
If insulation is carried out in an already installed structure and there are no plans to change the roofing material, under which there should be waterproofing membrane, then for insulation you will have to use sprayed polyurethane foam - it does not require protection from the wind, and it can be sprayed onto on a reliable base made of boards or directly onto the roofing.
- When insulating roof slopes, the insulation is closed vapor barrier film from the attic side. Vapor barrier is intended to protect thermal insulation material And wooden elements rafter system from moisture penetration from the inside.
As you know, excess moisture that gets on insulation and wood can lead to mold and rot, as well as unpleasant smell, which will eventually move into living rooms.
If in attic If you plan to equip a heated room, then the vapor barrier film must be secured under the wall decoration.
When insulating the floor, a vapor barrier is laid under the insulation, on the boards and beams of the structure, since it should retain heat in the rooms below and not allow wet vapors from them to get into the thermal insulation layer.
The protective membrane is produced in different thicknesses and can be made of foil or non-woven material. If a film with a foil surface is used, then it is mounted on the roof slopes with the reflective side towards the attic. When insulating the floor, it should be turned towards the lower room. This is done so that the heat is reflected into the attic or to the side living rooms and didn’t go outside. The canvases are glued together with foil tape, which will help create the integrity and tightness of the membrane.
If you want to save money, you can use old proven methods of vapor barrier, when the cracks between the attic floor boards, as well as their joints with the beams, are well coated with a paste made from lime and clay. Such protection will not only create a high tightness of the ceiling, but will also protect the wood from pests, and will also allow the insulating layers to “breathe”.
When the lime or clay has dried well, you can proceed to insulation operations. By the way, wooden houses have been insulated with sawdust for a long time - for this they were mixed with the same clay and a little lime was added to the mixture, which gave the composition elasticity. In addition to sawdust, other natural materials were also used for insulation, which were dried and placed between the floor beams.
This method of vapor barrier and insulation is still used today, as it helps to save quite a decent amount. But all such work is very labor-intensive and requires certain knowledge, skill and time.
Those home owners who they want the work to go faster, they use modern materials.
How to calculate the required insulation thickness?
It is not enough to decide on the type of insulation based only on its environmental friendliness, ease of installation and cost. It is very important to correctly calculate the required thickness of the thermal insulation layer. to This is also necessary for
create comfortable conditions in the room to avoid overpaying for excess material. Rasche T t of the required insulation thickness is determined by special guidelines 23 — documents - SNiP 02-2003 " Thermal protection of buildings "and the Code of Rules SP 23-101-2004 "Design thermal protection of buildings
" They contain formulas for calculations that take into account a very large number of parameters. But, with some acceptable simplification, we can take the following expression as a basis:δth= (R – 0.16 – δ1/ λ1– δ2 – δ / λ2/ λ / λ2n
) × λut
- " They contain formulas for calculations that take into account a very large number of parameters. But, with some acceptable simplification, we can take the following expression as a basis:– this is the desired parameter, the thickness of the layer of thermal insulation material.
- R– required table value of thermal resistance (m²×° WITH/W) insulated structure. These parameters are calculated for each region of Russia in accordance with specific climatic conditions. Such thermal resistance will ensure, with a properly designed heating system, the maintenance of comfortable temperature at +19°. The diagram below with a map of Russia shows the meaning R for walls, ceilings and coverings.
When calculating the insulation for the roof, the value “for coverings” is taken, for the attic floor - “for the floors”.
- δ / λ2and λn— the thickness of the material layer and its thermal conductivity coefficient.
The formula allows you to calculate the thickness of insulation for a multilayer structure, taking into account thermal insulating properties of each layer, from 1 before n. For example, a roofing “pie” will consist of continuous sheathing made of laminated plywood over rafters with roofing felt covering on top. Below there is a layer of insulation that has to be calculated, and then the ceiling will be lined with natural wooden lining. Thus, three layers will be taken into account: lining + plywood + roofing felt.
Important - only those outer layers that fit tightly to each other are counted. For example, flat slate You can take it into account, but the wavy one can no longer be taken into account. If the roof design involves a ventilated roof, then all layers located above the ventilated gap are not taken into account.
Where to get the values? Measure the thickness of each layer ( δ / λ2) – it won't be difficult. The value of the thermal conductivity coefficient ( λ n), if it is not indicated in the technical documentation of the material, can be taken from the table below:
| Estimated thermal performance indicators of some building and thermal insulation materials | ||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Material | Density of materials in dry state, kg/m3 | Calculated coefficients for different conditions exploitation | ||||
| ω | λ | μ | ||||
| A | B | A | B | A, B | ||
| λ - thermal conductivity coefficient (W/(m°C)); ω - coefficient of mass ratio of moisture in the material (%); ; μ - vapor permeability coefficient (mg/(m h Pa) | ||||||
| A. Polymer | ||||||
| Expanded polystyrene | 150 | 1 | 5 | 0.052 | 0.06 | 0.05 |
| Same | 100 | 2 | 10 | 0.041 | 0.052 | 0.05 |
| Same | 40 | 2 | 10 | 0.041 | 0.05 | 0.05 |
| Extruded polystyrene foam | 25 | 2 | 10 | 0.031 | 0.031 | 0.013 |
| Same | 28 | 2 | 10 | 0.031 | 0.031 | 0.013 |
| Same | 33 | 2 | 10 | 0.031 | 0.031 | 0.013 |
| Same | 35 | 2 | 10 | 0.031 | 0.031 | 0.005 |
| Same | 45 | 2 | 10 | 0.031 | 0.031 | 0.005 |
| PVC1 and PV1 foam plastic | 125 | 2 | 10 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.23 |
| Same | 100 or less | 2 | 10 | 0.05 | 0.052 | 0.23 |
| Polyurethane foam | 80 | 2 | 5 | 0.05 | 0.05 | 0.05 |
| Same | 60 | 2 | 5 | 0.041 | 0.041 | 0.05 |
| Same | 40 | 2 | 5 | 0.04 | 0.04 | 0.05 |
| Perlite plastic concrete | 200 | 2 | 3 | 0.052 | 0.06 | 0.008 |
| Same | 100 | 2 | 3 | 0.041 | 0.05 | 0.008 |
| Thermal insulation products made of foam synthetic rubber"Aeroflex" | 80 | 5 | 15 | 0.04 | 0.054 | 0.003 |
| Extruded polystyrene foam "Penoplex", type 35 | 35 | 2 | 3 | 0.029 | 0.03 | 0.018 |
| Same. type 45 | 45 | 2 | 3 | 0.031 | 0.032 | 0.015 |
| B. Mineral wool, fiberglass | ||||||
| Stitched mineral wool mats | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.07 | 0.3 |
| Same | 100 | 2 | 5 | 0.061 | 0.067 | 0.49 |
| Same | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.058 | 0.064 | 0.49 |
| Mineral wool mats with synthetic binder | 225 | 2 | 5 | 0.072 | 0.082 | 0.49 |
| Same | 175 | 2 | 5 | 0.066 | 0.076 | 0.49 |
| Same | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.07 | 0.49 |
| Same | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.058 | 0.064 | 0.53 |
| Soft, semi-rigid and hard mineral wool slabs with synthetic and bitumen binders | 250 | 2 | 5 | 0.082 | 0.085 | 0.41 |
| Same | 225 | 2 | 5 | 0.079 | 0.084 | 0.41 |
| Same | 200 | 2 | 5 | 0.076 | 0.08 | 0.49 |
| Same | 150 | 2 | 5 | 0.068 | 0.073 | 0.49 |
| Same | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.069 | 0.49 |
| Same | 100 | 2 | 5 | 0.06 | 0.065 | 0.56 |
| Same | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.056 | 0.063 | 0.6 |
| Mineral wool slabs of increased rigidity with an organophosphate binder | 200 | 1 | 2 | 0.07 | 0.076 | 0.45 |
| Semi-rigid mineral wool slabs with starch binder | 200 | 2 | 5 | 0.076 | 0.08 | 0.38 |
| Same | 125 | 2 | 5 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.38 |
| Glass staple fiber boards with synthetic binder | 45 | 2 | 5 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.6 |
| Stitched glass fiber mats and strips | 150 | 2 | 5 | 0.064 | 0.07 | 0.53 |
| URSA glass staple fiber mats | 25 | 2 | 5 | 0.043 | 0.05 | 0.61 |
| Same | 17 | 2 | 5 | 0.046 | 0.053 | 0.66 |
| Same | 15 | 2 | 5 | 0.048 | 0.053 | 0.68 |
| Same | 11 | 2 | 5 | 0.05 | 0.055 | 0.7 |
| URSA glass staple fiber boards | 85 | 2 | 5 | 0.046 | 0.05 | 0.5 |
| Same | 75 | 2 | 5 | 0.042 | 0.047 | 0.5 |
| Same | 60 | 2 | 5 | 0.04 | 0.045 | 0.51 |
| Same | 45 | 2 | 5 | 0.041 | 0.045 | 0.51 |
| Same | 35 | 2 | 5 | 0.041 | 0.046 | 0.52 |
| Same | 30 | 2 | 5 | 0.042 | 0.046 | 0.52 |
| Same | 20 | 2 | 5 | 0.043 | 0.048 | 0.53 |
| Same | 17 . | 2 | 5 | 0.047 | 0.053 | 0.54 |
| Same | 15 | 2 | 5 | 0.049 | 0.055 | 0.55 |
| B. Plates from natural organic and inorganic materials | ||||||
| Wood fiber and particle boards | 1000 | 10 | 12 | 0.23 | 0.29 | 0.12 |
| Same | 800 | 10 | 12 | 0.19 | 0.23 | 0.12 |
| Same | 600 | 10 | 12 | 0.13 | 0.16 | 0.13 |
| Same | 400 | 10 | 12 | 0.11 | 0.13 | 0.19 |
| Same | 200 | 10 | 12 | 0.07 | 0.08 | 0.24 |
| Fiberboard and wood concrete slabs based on Portland cement | 500 | 10 | 15 | 0.15 | 0.19 | 0.11 |
| Same | 450 | 10 | 15 | 0.135 | 0.17 | 0.11 |
| Same | 400 | 10 | 15 | 0.13 | 0.16 | 0.26 |
| Reed slabs | 300 | 10 | 15 | 0.09 | 0.14 | 0.45 |
| Same | 200 | 10 | 15 | 0.07 | 0.09 | 0.49 |
| Peat thermal insulation slabs | 300 | 15 | 20 | 0.07 | 0.08 | 0.19 |
| Same | 200 | 15 | 20 | 0.06 | 0.064 | 0.49 |
| Gypsum slabs | 1350 | 4 | 6 | 0.5 | 0.56 | 0.098 |
| Same | 1100 | 4 | 6 | 0.35 | 0.41 | 0.11 |
| Gypsum cladding sheets (gypsum plasterboard) | 1050 | 4 | 6 | 0.34 | 0.36 | 0.075 |
| Same | 800 | 4 | 6 | 0.19 | 0.21 | 0.075 |
| G. Backfills | ||||||
| Expanded clay gravel | 600 | 2 | 3 | 0.17 | 0.19 | 0.23 |
| Same | 500 | 2 | 3 | 0.15 | 0.165 | 0.23 |
| Same | 450 | 2 | 3 | 0.14 | 0.155 | 0.235 |
| Same | 400 | 2 | 3 | 0.13 | 0.145 | 0.24 |
| Same | 350 | 2 | 3 | 0.125 | 0.14 | 0.245 |
| Same | 300 | 2 | 3 | 0.12 | 0.13 | 0.25 |
| Same | 250 | 2 | 3 | 0.11 | 0.12 | 0.26 |
| D. Wood, products made from it and other natural organic materials | ||||||
| Pine and spruce across the grain | 500 | 15 | 20 | 0.14 | 0.18 | 0.06 |
| Pine and spruce along the grain | 500 | 15 | 20 | 0.29 | 0.35 | 0.32 |
| Oak across the grain | 700 | 10 | 15 | 0.18 | 0.23 | 0.05 |
| Oak along the grain | 700 | 10 | 15 | 0.35 | 0.41 | 0.3 |
| Plywood | 600 | 10 | 13 | 0.15 | 0.18 | 0.02 |
| Cardboard facing | 1000 | 5 | 10 | 0.21 | 0.23 | 0.06 |
| Multilayer construction cardboard | 650 | 6 | 12 | 0.15 | 0.18 | 0.083 |
| E. Roofing, waterproofing, facing materials | ||||||
| - Asbestos-cement | ||||||
| Asbestos-cement flat sheets | 1800 | 2 | 3 | 0.47 | 0.52 | 0.03 |
| Same | 1600 | 2 | 3 | 0.35 | 0.41 | 0.03 |
| - Bituminous | ||||||
| Petroleum bitumens for construction and roofing | 1400 | 0 | 0 | 0.27 | 0.27 | 0.008 |
| Same | 1200 | 0 | 0 | 0.22 | 0.22 | 0.008 |
| Same | 1000 | 0 | 0 | 0.17 | 0.17 | 0.008 |
| Asphalt concrete | 2100 | 0 | 0 | 1.05 | 1.05 | 0.008 |
| Products made from expanded perlite with a bitumen binder | 400 | 1 | 2 | 0.12 | 0.13 | 0.04 |
| Same | 300 | 1 | 2 | 0.09 | 0.099 | 0.04 |
Please note that there are two values given for materials λ / λ2– for operating modes A or B. These modes provide for specific humidity conditions - both by the region of construction and by the type of premises.
To begin with, it is necessary to determine the zone - wet, normal or dry - using the diagram map.
Then, by comparing the zone and features of the room, according to the proposed table, determine the mode, A or B, according to which select the value λ n.
| Room humidity conditions | Operating conditions, A or B, by humidity zone (according to the schematic map) | ||
|---|---|---|---|
| Dry zone | Normal zone | Wet area | |
| Dry | A | A | B |
| Normal | A | B | B |
| Damp or Wet | B | B | B |
- λut – thermal conductivity coefficient for the selected type of insulation, according to which the thickness is calculated.
Now, having written out the thickness and thermal conductivity coefficient for each layer, you can calculate the thickness of the insulation. Please note that the formula requires the thickness to be specified in meters!
To make the task easier for the interested reader, a special calculator has been placed.
It provides calculations for three layers (not counting insulation). If the number of layers is less, then simply leave the extra column blank. The thickness of the layers and the final result are in millimeters. Need expert advice. We have a two-story house with a gable roof. The ceiling of the second floor was insulated with mineral wool. Is it necessary to insulate the attic from the inside (non-residential attic): gables, the roof itself (material - metal tiles)? Will the costs of insulating the attic be justified or will insulating the second floor ceiling be sufficient? I mean the heat loss will obviously be less? If it’s worth insulating yourself, I’d be grateful for a detailed answer about what and how. Thank you in advance.
The correct solution in this situation would be to leave the attic itself without insulation and heating. This action will allow you to get much more advantages than disadvantages. Let’s look in a little more detail at why you shouldn’t lay a second layer of insulation.
Firstly, you save significantly on materials and work, which in itself is a fairly significant argument during construction or reconstruction. You can build for an infinite amount of time and pour almost unlimited sums into construction, but this is not always justified.
Secondly, you get a buffer space that will work for the benefit of your home in summer and winter.
If your unheated attic has vents for air circulation and special ventilation holes under the ridge and on the roof slopes, this will have a beneficial effect on the microclimate of the entire house.
Such space protects the building from excessive overheating in the summer heat and reduces heat loss in the winter cold, subject to the technology of insulating the ceiling of the 2nd floor.
The disadvantages of this solution include the need for mandatory insulation of ventilation ducts and drain pipes, a special technology for laying steam and waterproofing to prevent the accumulation of condensation and ice. By the way, metal tiles are an ideal material for constructing a cold attic. In combination with a snow retainer on the roof, you can count on comfortable living at any time of the year.
As for insulation, there are currently many options, but the most common and a good option in terms of price \ quality \ characteristics is stone wool in slabs (ROCKWOOL).
When laying them, you should definitely calculate the required thickness in your strip. It is better to take the thickness with a margin, laying the sheets in a checkerboard pattern so that there are no cold bridges in the insulation layer. Also very important point is the presence of a vapor barrier to maintain the thermal insulation material in the correct humidity parameters.
If you insulate the second floor well enough, protect the ventilation systems from freezing, provide for the possibility of air circulation in attic space and carry out operations to remove excess moisture from the roof, you will be able to enjoy comfortable living for many years.
