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How to make a greenhouse from a profile pipe. How to independently assemble a greenhouse frame from a profile pipe, and is there another alternative? Drawings and diagrams of a greenhouse made from a profile pipe

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To grow seedlings and forcing them, it is not necessary to install an expensive greenhouse. Great option will be the construction of a greenhouse that will take up a minimum of space on the site, will not require connecting a heating system and will be undemanding in maintenance. Its design is simple and therefore even without construction experience it will not be difficult to design and install a greenhouse from profile pipe with your own hands. Photo and video instructions will help you competently complete all stages of work in the shortest possible time without the involvement of specialists.

Structures made from profile pipes are the most durable and reliable

Why is it profitable to build greenhouses from profile pipes and not from wooden blocks?

The frame is the main load-bearing part of the greenhouse, so it must retain its shape and withstand the loads of precipitation. Therefore, the material must be at the same time easy to process in the manufacture of parts, rigid, strong and durable. There are two main frame materials:

Wooden beam. It can be processed with any suitable cutting tool, allows you to construct structures at minimal financial cost and is capable of creating a unique microclimate inside the greenhouse. However, it is susceptible to rotting or drying out with loss of strength properties, and exposure to pests and insects. This significantly reduces its service life to an average of 5-7 years. Creating an arched structure will require significant woodworking experience.

Metal profile pipes. They are easy to process with specialized tools, allow you to create structures of complex shapes, and can come into contact with any type of materials without causing damage due to smooth surface. The service life is on average 10-15 years. Moreover, unlike wood, they do not require additional care or protection from pests. The optimal pipe cross-section is 20*20 mm, which provides sufficient strength and rigidity of the structure.

Exist following types designs:

Single-pitch. It is the simplest structure, which is erected adjacent to it in order to save building materials or compact placement on the site.

Arched. Provides uniform illumination of the entire internal volume, regardless of the position of the sun. However, to achieve this effect, it is necessary to correctly place the object being built so that the arch is in the direction of the sun. During installation, difficulties may arise with bending and centering steel pipes, as well as attaching the sheathing to the frame. As a result, maximum heating and lighting efficiency will be obtained compared to other types of structures.

Choosing a suitable greenhouse from a profile pipe and making it with your own hands is easier if you see ready-made examples on the picture. They will allow you to roughly understand the complexity of construction, as well as indirectly evaluate the benefits.

Related article:

Create a drawing

Creating a drawing - important stage design, which allows you to correctly calculate the amount of material, assess the complexity of the work, and also perform the assembly correctly. Planning should begin by determining the dimensions of the greenhouse.

Unlike other facilities built on personal plot, in this case it is impossible to make a reserve in area. This is due to increasing energy efficiency and ensuring optimal conditions plant growth. Therefore, it is necessary to clearly define which crops and in what quantities are intended to be grown.

The greenhouse can be mobile or stationary. The first option is suitable in case of acute shortage usable area site or the need to move it to a heated room with a significant decrease in air temperature outside. It is a structure similar to the stationary one, but smaller in size, made of lightweight materials and located on a special mobile platform.

A stationary facility is designed with any required area. It can be made in above-ground and shallow-depth versions. Above-ground greenhouses are attractive because they completely eliminate the formation of shading, but at the same time it is advisable to install them in middle and southern latitudes due to possible soil freezing. Shallow ones can draw heat from the ground and warm up the internal volume, regardless of the level of soil freezing. The disadvantage is the appearance of shading near the walls, which will slow down the development of plants.

Just like a do-it-yourself greenhouse designed from polycarbonate, the greenhouse drawing must take into account and contain removable elements(flaps or doors) that will provide access to plants and ventilation. To do this, one or two doors are provided in its upper part on both sides, which are fixed to top crossbar frame.

Helpful information! To increase the strength of the frame, it is necessary to provide intermediate structural elements, which should be evenly distributed along the walls with an interval of 0.5-0.8 m. The interval is chosen so that the sheathing sheets at the joints fall in the middle steel pipe.

A do-it-yourself drawing and photo of a greenhouse made from a 20*20 profile pipe are shown in the images below.

Do I need to design a foundation?

During the construction of personal properties, the foundation plays the role of a reliable foundation for the entire structure, allowing the load to be distributed along the entire perimeter of the walls. Since a greenhouse made of profile pipes and polycarbonate has minimal weight, in most cases it is not necessary to create a foundation for it, since steel frame will bear the main loads without deformation. Therefore, there is no need to lay a foundation for it, especially considering that it will significantly increase the cost of the project.

Creating a Cost Estimate

Based on the drawing, we draw up cost estimates and details that will guarantee that there are no problems during procurement necessary materials and will allow you to calculate your spending budget. The detailing will show which parts require the use of specialized tools and at what stage assembly difficulties may arise.

When calculating the quantity of building materials, it is necessary to make a reserve of 10%, taking into account their possible damage during delivery, as well as installation errors. Even if it is possible to save material, in the future the excess can be used to repair or improve the facility.

How to properly make a greenhouse with your own hands?

The construction of a greenhouse can be qualitatively divided into three stages: searching for tools and creating structural parts, preparing the site and the construction process itself.

Selection of the necessary tools and creation of design details

To build a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

shovel for leveling the soil;
drill for installing frame posts;
grinder for cutting profile pipes;
screwdriver for screwing in self-tapping screws;
hacksaw with fine teeth for sawing polycarbonate.

Helpful information! It is prohibited to cut polycarbonate with a grinder, as it will melt and lose decorative properties. Must use manual cutting tool for metal with a fine tooth or a power tool with speed control.

The frame assembly sequence is as follows:

We assemble the finished parts into a single structure according to the drawing. For fastenings we use standard steel brackets of suitable sizes and bolts, or we make a welded connection.

We measure the length of the side walls and cut the polycarbonate sheets to size.

Helpful information! You can measure the length of the arc with a curvimeter. If it is not there, then you can use a rope, attach it tightly to the steel pipe, and then make marks along its length on polycarbonate sheets and cut it.

After assembling the frame, it must be protected from negative impact external environment- it is recommended to paint water-based paint. The finished do-it-yourself greenhouse frame made from a profile pipe is shown in photo 20.

Article

Building a greenhouse with your own hands is a completely feasible task that even people with minimal construction skills can cope with. However, in order for the structure to be technologically correct and symmetrical, it is necessary to carry out some calculations even before the start of its construction.

Quantity counting the required material and calculating the size of a future building is a rather complex process that requires extreme care. The reliability of the building and its ease of use will depend on this. In this article we will look at the basic calculations that must be carried out before building arched and domed greenhouses from various materials.

Greenhouse calculation

Some summer residents have a question about why it is necessary to calculate a greenhouse at all, because it is enough to simply build a base of the required shape and size, install supports and cover the structure with film or polycarbonate.

In fact, correctly carried out calculations are the key to successful construction. Not only reliability will depend on this finished design, but also financial side question. With a correct calculation, you will be able to find out exactly what material you will need for construction and how much of it you should buy.

There are many services on the Internet that provide online calculation of all necessary materials. Such online calculators are really very convenient and save a lot of effort and energy for those who are not confident in their own mathematical knowledge. However, to be completely sure that the calculation is correct, it is better to check the data obtained by performing the calculation manually. Next we will tell you how to do it correctly.

Calculation of material for greenhouses

First of all, calculations will be needed in order to accurately calculate required amount material for construction. This process includes counting materials for building the foundation, installing the supports, and installing the covering.

The calculation directly depends on what materials you plan to use for construction. For example, wooden beams are often used to construct supports, but a profile pipe is considered a more practical and financially advantageous material. It is inexpensive, but quite strong and durable. In addition, the material of the pipe itself is practically resistant to fungi and mold, so the building frame will require a minimum of maintenance.

The calculation should also include roofing material: film, glass or polycarbonate. We will consider the latter type of calculation roofing material, since polycarbonate is considered the most reliable and modern option for greenhouse covering.

A profile pipe is a metal product with a square, rectangular or oval cross-section. Untreated metal pipes are considered the most inexpensive, but galvanized or painted pipes are more suitable for humid environments. However, if you plan to connect structural elements by welding, it is better to buy uncoated pipes, since under the influence of welding heat protective layer In any case, it will collapse and the pipe will have to be repainted.

Note: As a rule, square or square pipes are used for the construction of closed ground structures. rectangular section, size 20 x 20 or 20 x 40 mm.

If you connect the supports with bolts or other fastening fittings, you can safely buy galvanized pipe. However, preference should be given to the highest quality products, the galvanization of which will not crack over time. If the protective layer is damaged, all the properties of such galvanized pipes are lost, and the frame will begin to rust in a humid greenhouse environment.

Figure 1. Drawings of the frame of a gable and arched greenhouse made from a profile pipe

Before you start calculating a greenhouse made from a profile pipe, you should decide on the type of structure. Traditional option considered a “house” - a building with gable roof, but arched and dome structures. Their advantage is that snow does not accumulate on the roof, which can damage the coating, and there is enough space inside for caring for plants (Figure 1).

Note: Regardless of the type of construction chosen, it is better to make the height of the building slightly larger than the height of a person. A lower design will, of course, save you some money, but it will not be very comfortable to work in a half-bent position.

Here are examples of calculations for the most popular types of greenhouses - gable and arched:

Arched: usually has a height of about 1900-2400 mm. Based on this, we can conclude that the arch is half of a full circle. Accordingly, we need to calculate the circumference using the formula L=n*D. The number n (Pi) is a constant value that is equal to 3.14, and D (diameter) is equal to two radii. In our case, the height of the structure is the radius. Let's assume that the height of the building will be two meters. Accordingly, the circumference L will be equal to 3.14 * 4, or 12.56 m. This figure must be divided in half. The result will be 6.28 m, which will correspond to the length of the curved arch. In this case, there is only one problem: the standard length of the profile pipe is 6 meters, so you will have to somehow attach a small piece to it. To simplify your task, it is better to make the height about 1850-1900 mm. In this case, the length of one curved arch will be exactly 6 meters.
Gable: more difficult to calculate. First of all, it is necessary to take into account the angle of inclination of the roof, which fluctuates depending on the snow and wind load. The standard indicator is 30-45 degrees, and the optimal height of a building with a gable roof is 170-200 cm. To find out the height of the roof, you need to use the Pythagorean theorem, according to which the square of the hypotenuse equal to the sum squares of legs. Let's assume that the width of our greenhouse will be 2 meters, and the roof angle will be 30 degrees. In this case, the hypotenuse will be considered the length of the slope, and the legs will be an indicator of the width of the building. Using the same Pythagorean theorem, we find out that the leg lying opposite the angle of 30 degrees must be equal to half the hypotenuse. Having compiled a quadratic equation, it turns out that the length of the hypotenuse is 1.154 m, respectively, the length of the leg is 0.58 m. Taking into account that the height of the wall is two meters, we can conclude that the height of the same structure along the ridge is 2.58 meters.

Using these calculations, you can calculate the required number of supports and arches. In this case, it is necessary to make a reserve, since in addition each greenhouse has doors and vents, which are also made from profile pipes.

Polycarbonate greenhouse

Polycarbonate is a roofing material that lets in enough light for normal plant development, but at the same time has increased strength. That is why it is most often used instead of fragile glass or short-lived film.

Figure 2. Drawings of polycarbonate buildings

As in the case of a profile pipe for constructing a frame, it is necessary to calculate the number of polycarbonate sheets required to cover the frame (Figure 2). First of all, you should take into account the thickness of the sheets. This indicator depends on the season of use of the building. If you plan to carry out work in it in warm time year, that is, from spring to autumn, there will be enough sheets 5-10 mm thick. If you plan to build a year-round heated greenhouse, it is better to give preference to sheets with a thickness of at least 15 mm.

There are a number of factors that must be taken into account when making calculations:

Sheets size: you need to draw up a drawing of the future building in advance and plan the cutting of roofing material so that the amount of waste is minimal.
Properties of polycarbonate: Under the influence of heat, this material tends to expand. This feature must be taken into account when calculating the number of sheets and cutting them.
Flexibility: Despite the fact that polycarbonate bends easily, some models of the material are quite difficult to give the required shape. Therefore, when purchasing, be sure to ask whether the sheet can be bent. This requirement plays a key role when covering arched and dome models.

It should also be taken into account that to attach polycarbonate you will need special fittings: end profiles, perforated tapes and special screws.

Calculating the required amount of polycarbonate for coating is quite simple. The standard sheet width is 2.1 meters. In this case, the stiffening ribs are located along the sheet, and during installation its edge must be fixed on supports made of metal profile. In addition, you need to remember that the standard distance between support posts is 0.7 or 1.05 meters, and the sheets are attached end-to-end using special connecting strips and self-tapping screws with thermal washers. Knowing the width of the sheet and the number of racks in your building, you can easily calculate the required amount of roofing material.

Arc calculation

You will need this type of calculation if you plan to build a greenhouse arched type(Figure 3).

Note: A key role in the calculations is played by overall height buildings and standard size polycarbonate sheets.

A standard polycarbonate sheet is 2.1 meters wide and 6 meters long. Accordingly, it is the length that will protrude decisive factor when determining the height of a building.

Figure 3. Example of arc calculation

In order to give the sheet an arched shape, it is laid across the frame. In this case, the width of the entire structure will be about 3.80 meters, and the radius of the semicircle will be 1.90 meters. If we focus on the geometric formulas and calculations given in the previous sections, we can conclude that the height of the building will be equal to the radius, that is, it will be 1.90 meters. Unfortunately, this height of the greenhouse is not suitable for everyone, therefore, to increase the height, it is recommended to equip a basement for construction.

Calculation of the size of different types of greenhouses

There are several types of greenhouses that are in particularly high demand. The first is considered an arched structure, which is easy to build with your own hands. In addition, this design is easy to work with, and thanks to design features inside buildings, light and heat are optimally distributed and plants develop more evenly.

The second popular type of greenhouse is the domed one. It's comparative the new kind buildings, but thanks to his unusual looking it is widely popular among those who not only want to grow vegetables, berries and herbs with their own hands, but also make such a building an original decoration for the site.

Dome

A dome greenhouse is also called a geodome. This is a building that looks like a large hemisphere. To build it, you will need many triangular and hexagonal frame elements that are connected to each other (Figure 4).

Note: Almost any material can be used to cover a dome building. Inexpensive option the structures are made of wood and film, while the option made of profile pipe and polycarbonate is considered more modern, durable and reliable.

Since a domed greenhouse is significantly different from other closed ground structures, its calculation should also be carried out taking into account similar features.

First of all, you will need certain materials for construction. The frame can be made from a profile pipe or wooden beams, and any material can be used as a covering. available material(glass, film or polycarbonate). You will also need special petal connectors that connect the triangular frame elements to each other, and fittings (screws, nuts, bolts, awnings and handles), which will be needed for attaching the roofing material and making doors and vents.

Figure 4. Drawings and calculations required for the construction of a dome greenhouse

The main calculation that will be needed during construction dome model- this is the determination of the area of a spherical dome. Fortunately, there are special online geodetic calculators on the Internet that will help not only calculate the volume of the dome, but also the number of necessary frame elements for its construction. You just need to enter the desired diameter and height of the building, and the system will automatically calculate all the necessary data. For example, if the greenhouse diameter is 4 meters and the height is 2 meters, you will need 35 and 30 triangles with edge lengths of 1.23 and 1.09 meters, respectively.

The calculation can also be done manually using the formula S = 2P*r2, and a greenhouse in which the height is half the diameter is considered ideal.

Arched

The arched structure is considered the simplest and most convenient, and even beginners with minimal knowledge in construction can build it. The main thing is to correctly calculate the length of the arc, the height and width of the building (Figure 5).

To determine the width, first of all, decide how many beds will be in it. The optimal width is 1 meter, and the passages between the beds should be about 50 cm.

Figure 5. Example of calculation of materials for an arched greenhouse

To simplify the calculation process, let's assume that we will build a small greenhouse, only 1 meter wide. In this case, the width of the structure is equal to the diameter of half the arc, and the height of the building will be equal to the radius. In formula form, it will look like this: R=D/2=1m/2=0.5 m. Next, you need to calculate the length of the arc, which is half a full circle with a diameter of 1 meter. A similar calculation is carried out using the formula: L=0.5x*пD=1.57 m.

Calculation of greenhouse lighting

In addition to the direct construction of the greenhouse, certain calculations are also required during its interior design. Since the key role in growing plants in open ground plays light and heat, we will look at how to correctly calculate the lighting and heating of closed ground structures.

The importance of calculating lighting is explained by the fact that plants require a certain amount of light for full development. If the light is too dim, the crops simply will not grow, and if the light is too bright, they may burn.

When calculating lighting, they are guided by the area of the room and the power of the lamps that are used for lighting. For example, a lamp with a power of 150 W can illuminate an area of 60*60 cm, which is great for small home greenhouses. In industrial structures, as a rule, lamps with a power of 1000 W are used, since they are capable of illuminating an area of 250 * 250 cm. The calculations necessary for installing greenhouse lighting are given in Table 1.

Table 1. Calculation of the power of lighting devices for illuminating closed ground structures

Knowing the area of the greenhouse, you can calculate the required number of lamps of a certain power. At the same time, in small buildings it is not recommended to use too powerful lighting devices, as they can burn the plants. In addition, it should be taken into account that the lamps must be at a certain distance from the plants, and the higher the lamp power, the greater the distance should be. Therefore, in home greenhouses it is not recommended to use powerful lamps, from which the plants can simply burn out, but determine optimal distance from the lamp to the beds you need to gradually: first hang the lighting fixtures at the maximum height, and if signs of light deficiencies are detected, the distance can be reduced.

Greenhouse heating calculation

Proper heating of the greenhouse plays a role important role for year-round cultivation of plants. There are many ways to heat a greenhouse: steam, water, electric and infrared. In most cases, heating involves installing a certain number of radiators. It is to determine their quantity that calculations will be needed.

In general, we can say that the heating system must have a certain power, which will not only provide the plants with the necessary amount of heat, but also compensate for heat loss.

Note: General level thermal power consists of the summed power of individual radiators.

To calculate the required number of heating devices, the following factors should be taken into account:

Glazing area of the building: The lower this indicator, the less heat will be lost during heating.
Temperature ratio inside and outside: The greater the temperature difference, the higher the heat loss. This indicator is especially important during winter heating.
Thermal conductivity level: this indicator depends on the coating material. The lower its thermal conductivity, the slower the heat will escape out.
Tightness of the structure: If there are cracks in the building through which cold air can penetrate, more heat will be lost.

By taking into account all these indicators and multiplying them, you can obtain the required power of one radiator, and depending on the total area of the greenhouse, calculate the required number of heating devices.

The necessary calculations and their application in practice are shown in more detail in the video.

A greenhouse on a personal plot is practical and useful; the harvest pleases from early spring to late autumn. It is believed that a frame made of profile pipe is the most optimal option for manufacturing similar designs. Reliable, safe, functional, with correct operation and care will last a long time.

In this article we will share the secrets of how to make a greenhouse yourself from a profile pipe: design the structure, decide on the dimensions. Let's give step by step instructions How to build a house for vegetables with your own hands.

Profile pipe for building a greenhouse - all the pros and cons

The profile pipe has a square or rectangular cross-section; according to the manufacturing method it can be:

hot- and cold-formed;
electric-welded, electric-welded cold-deformed.

The shape, size, characteristics of professional pipes are regulated by part 8639-82 and 8645-68 GOST. For the manufacture of profile pipes, different metals are used; the most in demand in private and commercial construction of greenhouses are steel products with an anti-corrosion protective coating, moisture-proof. The strength of the material is ensured by 4 stiffening ribs, which bear the main load of the entire greenhouse structure.

The physical and mechanical characteristics of profile pipes make it possible to produce a high-quality, reliable frame. To extend the service life, maintain the aesthetics and integrity of the greenhouse, after installing the welded structure, it is necessary to:

thoroughly remove scale with a stiff brush;
treat with abrasive sandpaper to remove even invisible signs of corrosion;
wash with solvent;
prime;
paint.

Good to know: Rust can be removed by treating the affected areas with vinegar essence. Work should be carried out wearing rubber gloves and a respirator.

The profile pipe looks like wooden beam with a straight side. The shape is convenient for mounting sheet material: polycarbonate, glass, film-frame elements - this greatly facilitates the manufacture of a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands.

The main types of corrugated pipes for the manufacture of greenhouses

Feasibility and choice of size of professional pipes

The price of a profile pipe depends on the quality of the steel, size, wall thickness - this is not a cheap “pleasure”, so it is important to choose the optimal material. It is rational to build a greenhouse frame from a profile pipe with your own hands from a profile with ribs 40*20, 40*40 mm, wall thickness 2 mm; for horizontal screed you can use pipes 20*20 mm, wall thickness 1-1.5 mm.

The standard length of the corrugated pipe is 6.05 m, in order to minimize costs and avoid significant waste, before starting construction it is necessary to decide on the design of the greenhouse and its dimensions.

Drawing of a greenhouse made from a 20*20 mm profile pipe, the base is best made from 40*20 mm rolled steel

Do-it-yourself greenhouse from a profile pipe - drawings and diagrams of standard, ergonomic designs

Standard homemade greenhouse from a profile pipe there are usually three types:

Attached to a house with a pitched or asymmetrical oval roof.
Free-standing arched structure.
Greenhouse with a house made of profile pipes with a gable roof.

Based on the given size of the corrugated pipes, the appropriate length of the building is: 3, 4, 6, 12 m, width, respectively: 2, 3, 4, 6 m. A convenient size for organizing two parallel beds is 3-6 * 3 m, for three – 3- 12*4-6 m. In private construction, a greenhouse made of metal pipes with your own hands has the popular standard 3*6 m.

Drawings of greenhouses made of profile pipes, with dimensions, on a strip foundation

Greenhouse frame made of profile pipe - drawings and calculations

Work in a greenhouse often proceeds according to the principle: I straightened up to see if it straightened up, so that I could see if I straightened up. Therefore, it is important to correctly calculate the height of the structure to facilitate and maximize the comfort of work. It is optimal if the person stands in full height+ 300-400 mm.

Detailed drawing of an arched building

The average ergonomic height of an arched greenhouse is 1.9-2.4 meters - this is essentially the bending radius of a polycarbonate sheet. Let us recall the formula for circumference: L= π*D, where π – 3.14, D – diameter = 2 radii.

Let's say the height of a greenhouse made from a corrugated pipe is 2 m, then L (circumference) = 3.14 * 4 = 12.56 m. We need half of this length - 12.56:2 = 6.28 m. But this is not rational when When using polycarbonate sheathing, it turns out that one sheet whose length is 6.0 m is not enough, you will have to sharpen a small strip, the same with standard length professional pipes. To avoid extra costs, it is necessary to reduce the height of the greenhouse, rationally if H = 1.85-1.9 m, with a building width of 3.7-3.8 m.

Scheme of a greenhouse made from a profile pipe; such a design can be made with your own hands with virtually no waste of material

For a gable roof, the calculation of the height depends on the slope of the roof; for different regions, depending on wind and snow loads, the slope is usually 30-45 degrees. A convenient height for a straight wall is 1.7-2 meters to the bottom edge of the rafters. Using an example, we will calculate the total height of the greenhouse from the profile pipe to the ridge.

Let’s say the slope of the gable roof is 30°, the width of the greenhouse is 4 m. According to the Pythagorean theorem: c 2 = a 2 + b 2, where c is the hypotenuse (the length of one slope), and is the leg (perpendicular from the edge of the corrugated pipe frame to the middle) , in – leg (height from the ridge to the straight wall along the perpendicular). In our case: a = 4:2 = 2 meters. From geometry: a leg lying opposite an angle of 30° is equal to half the hypotenuse. Let's make an equation:

b=x, therefore,

c = 2x, hence (2x) 2 = 2 2 +x 2, 4x 2 = 4+x 2, 3x 2 = 4, x2 = 4:3, x = √1.33(3) = 1.154 m - this is the length hypotenuse, which means leg b = 0.58 m, hence the total height of the greenhouse from the corrugated pipe: 2 + 0.58 = 2.58 m.

Making a greenhouse from a profile pipe, drawing of a standard gable building

Note important nuance, the roof slope should be 100-300 mm longer than the greenhouse itself, so its length = 1.154+0.1(0.3) = 1.25-1.45 m - this must be taken into account when cutting the profile pipe for the greenhouse rafter system .

About the entrance

It is better to enter the greenhouse from the end side, the height of the door is 1.9-2.1 m, width 700-800 mm, for convenient entry of pots with seedlings and tools. For winter greenhouses It is recommended to attach a small vestibule from the corrugated pipe; this will help avoid cold air flows at the entrance.

How to bend profile pipes for a greenhouse

Arched greenhouses made from corrugated steel pipes are considered the most practical; they have good aerodynamic characteristics, so they are easily transported snow loads and gusts of wind. The easiest way is to order a service for bending corrugated pipes at a specialized metal warehouse; you can buy a pipe bender, but this is not advisable.

There is a folk technology on how to bend a profile pipe yourself without deforming it. You will need a radius template, which should be made in advance.

Method one - at any time of the year

River sand is sifted, washed and dried. The fire is lit, put a metal sheet- an improvised baking sheet, sand is poured in a thin layer and calcined until there is no evaporation from the surface.

The corrugated pipe is cut to the size of the greenhouse, one end is plugged with a wooden chopper, sandstone is poured inside, tamped by tapping, when the cavity is filled to the brim, the other end is also tightly closed with a plug. With such a filler, the profile pipe can be easily bent by hand according to the template, without deformation.

Method two - winter

The technology exactly repeats the first method, but instead of sand, the corrugated pipe for the greenhouse is filled with water and left in the cold until ice forms. Then it bends according to the pattern.

Method three - simple, but you will need equipment

The corrugated pipe is cut 2/3 with a grinder; the cuts should be located at the same distance from each other. The principle is simple: the steeper the curve of the greenhouse, the smaller the distance between the cuts. Next, the profile is bent along a given radius and all seams are hermetically sealed by welding.

Watch a useful idea on how to bend a profile pipe for a greenhouse; the video details how to make a pipe bender yourself and make an arc of the required size.

How to weld a greenhouse from metal profile pipes - step-by-step instructions

For building a greenhouse with your own hands, a galvanized profile pipe with ribs 40*20 mm is best suited, for connecting parts 20*20 mm. High-quality material has a zinc coating on the outside and inside. Galvanized profile pipe for greenhouses is very light, the frame can be moved or transported to another area, and a reliable protective coating prevents corrosion. For large structures, galvanized corrugated pipe with reinforcement is used; it can withstand loads of up to 90 kg per 1 m2. According to GOST, a product made taking into account all technological requirements will last 2-3 decades. High-quality galvanization even with mechanical damage: bends, dents, deformations, it maintains the integrity of the coating, without cracks or scratches to the base.

Important: Frame parts for a greenhouse made of steel pipe without a protective coating are recommended to be assembled by welding. Galvanized elements are best connected to bolted connection and special connecting elements, corners.

A greenhouse made of galvanized pipe 25x25, the photo shows an example of how to properly attach the components of a collapsible structure

Foundation for a greenhouse made of corrugated pipe

Greenhouse structures made from profile pipes are often installed on strip foundation, but the final choice depends on geodetic studies of the site. In an economical option, you can use a columnar base.

We clear the area of debris and weeds, uproot the roots, mark it with posts, stretch the rope around the perimeter, remove fertile layer soil, 300 mm thick. We dig a trench 700-800 mm deep, level the bottom, fill it with sand and crushed stone, and tamp it.

We assemble a frame from corrugated reinforcement with a cross-section of 8-12 mm, depending on the scale of the building. We install the formwork, make the panels from unedged boards, moisture-resistant plywood, you can use durable plastic panels. We check the geometry, secure it with slopes, and tighten it along the top with bars. We fill it with concrete, insert the mortgages, we will tie the frame to them, and leave it until it is fully formed for 4 weeks.

Diagram of the foundation structure and method of attaching the frame

How to weld a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands

We do the detailing according to the drawing and cut the elements to size. We lay 2 layers of roofing felt on the tape, make pipe piping around the perimeter, and weld them to the mortgages. We bend the parts according to the chosen method, install the arcs strictly perpendicular to the foundation and fasten them to the frame. The recommended distance between arches is 900-1000 mm. On the end side we decorate the entrance opening with a profile, on the other side we strengthen the structure with transverse crossbars.

The photo shows how to assemble a greenhouse frame from a 20x40 mm profile pipe

Across arched design we lay the sheathing from a 40*20, 20*20 mm profile, this will serve as a base for sheet covering material and strengthen the frame. Using self-tapping screws, we attach the connecting rod to the purlins. plastic profile, insert polycarbonate, 6-12 mm thick, into the grooves, fix it with plugs. We screw the edges onto thermal washers. For ventilation, you should make vents. Better 2-3 on each side. Fittings for comfortable opening of openings can be purchased in specialized stores.

In conclusion, video instructions with detailed explanations How to weld a greenhouse frame, base and walls with your own hands.

Strapping, strengthening, rafter system, painting.

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How to independently assemble a greenhouse frame from a profile pipe, and is there another alternative?

Any good owner who decides to build himself a greenhouse and, after browsing through specialized sites on the Internet, quickly begins to understand that the frame of the greenhouse is made of a profile pipe, this moment is the most reliable and durable option. At one time I went through several options and settled on this one. In this article I will talk about the intricacies of creating such a design, and also tell you about simpler and cheaper models that work successfully for me, and therefore may be of interest to you.

Types of designs, or what kind of greenhouse you need

The price, or more precisely the cost of the structure, is the first thing that interests a novice builder. This approach is not always justified. Of course, there are budget options, I will also mention them, which are inexpensive.

But you need to be prepared for the fact that they will serve much less. And here you should choose whether to spend money on repairing the old greenhouse every year or do it once and forget about it.

In addition, the architecture and, strange as it may sound, the purpose of greenhouses can be different. It’s one thing when you want fresh greens in early spring and quite another when you want to grow vegetables or, for example, flowers all year round. Plus, as you know, the height of plants varies, and accordingly, the size of the structures needs to vary depending on what crop you are going to grow.

Perhaps the most common form of greenhouses today is arched design. In my opinion, this is almost an ideal option.
- Firstly, assembling such a structure is not particularly difficult;
- Secondly, such a greenhouse is assembled according to modular principle, which means, if necessary, it is possible to expand the structure;
- Thirdly, it can combine tall and low growing crops. And what is important for our homeland, the arched structure is very resistant to winds, plus snow does not stick to sloping roofs. No wonder the majority serial models is done precisely in this interpretation;

Single-pitch the design is most often used in residential private houses. This is a wall structure, which, as a rule, is sheathed with double-glazed windows. The thing is quite convenient, because you can use it for heating heating system at home, you just need to bring it out. It makes sense to build such greenhouses on any side of the house except the north;

Gable the buildings are considered classics. The width of such greenhouses can reach 5 m, and the length of some models reaches 40 meters or more. It all depends on the type of heating, with autonomous stove heating the length of the structure cannot be more than 15 m, and when using a centralized heating main, the dimensions of the structure can be much larger. The structures themselves are made either free-standing or attached to a residential building;

So-called " Dutch greenhouse", in fact, is one of the varieties of the gable model. It differs from the classics only in that side walls they are made inclined in it. This design is amazing large area, but it is more difficult to install;

All elongated, elongated structures are usually located from north to south. This way the plants will receive the maximum amount of sunlight.
Naturally, there should be no trees or shady, tall bushes nearby.

I had to deal with another interesting form, this is the so-called pyramidal design. The base here is a regular square, and the walls are accordingly made in the form of a triangular prism. The owners assured that plants develop best there, since it is built and oriented according to the principle Egyptian pyramids. I do not undertake to say categorically whether this is true or not. But numerous documentaries on the topic of “obviously incredible” apparently do their job.

Assembly of the simplest and most accessible designs

Although this information is indirectly related to the topic of this article, I think it will be useful for you. The fact is that to this day there are stories about simple and cheap greenhouses in wooden frame. I've been through this.

The price of wooden structures is really reasonable and if you confidently work with wood, then it will be easy to assemble such a frame with your own hands. But these are all related details.

The worst thing about such greenhouses is that they are not durable. The wood leads, it dries out and cracks. Just think, a relatively thin block is constantly in the open, exposed to the sun, rain and frost.

There is no point in using high-quality impregnations and paints, they are too expensive, and a budget option only partially protects. As a result, quite serious repairs are required every year. Plus, after a maximum of 5 years wooden greenhouse comes into complete disrepair.

Theoretically, of course, you can build a greenhouse from larch or oak, and then cover it with yacht varnish. It will last a long time and look prestigious. But this option will cost several times more than a structure made from a profiled pipe.

PVC frame

Many novice summer residents, in pursuit of cheapness, try to make a greenhouse frame from PVC pipes. Polyvinyl chloride itself is a good material and products made from it are quite durable and reliable. But they have one huge disadvantage: they are tough. In addition, most models are made thin-walled.

PVC products do not “like” being bent; in severe frosts, being under tension, they can even crack. PVC is well suited for sewerage, cold water supply, or ventilation ducts.

In the construction industry, they are used as formwork for bored piles. But this has nothing to do with greenhouses. Therefore, I do not recommend that you contact this material.

Frame made of polypropylene pipe

But here is a greenhouse frame made of polypropylene pipes, an option that is quite acceptable and worthy of attention. Along with fairly high strength, polypropylene has good elasticity. The wall here is already much thicker, and most importantly, these pipes can be easily bent, creating arched structures. Plus, with basic skills and a special soldering iron, you can solder a strong frame for doors or windows from this material.

As you know, polypropylene pipes are available for cold and for hot water. The difference is that the hot version has additional fiberglass or foil reinforcement.

This subtlety is important when using them for their intended purpose. In our case there is no difference, so take pipes under cold water, they are cheaper. For reference, cold pipes are marked with a blue stripe, and hot pipes with a red stripe.

For greens and seasonal vegetables at my dacha, I assemble relatively small and fairly light mobile greenhouses from polypropylene. This is the simplest, not expensive, but quite reliable design.

The basis of such a structure is a wooden frame 3x1.5 m. Theoretically, such a frame can be assembled from a 50x50 mm block, but I am used to doing everything with a margin, so I took a square wooden block 100x100 mm. The price difference is small, but the reliability is an order of magnitude higher.

To ensure that such a rectangle does not warp and it holds correct form, I connected the timber using gussets (metal isosceles triangles with holes for self-tapping screws). I connected the corners in half a tree, but the neighbor did not bother and in his greenhouse he simply connected them end-to-end, as a result, both options with gussets hold up equally well.

As you understand, the frame will be made of polypropylene tubes, in this case optimal diameter 20 mm. Although I have seen greenhouses of the same design, made of metal and fiberglass reinforcement with a cross section of 10 mm, the cost is the same, so you can choose.

Bent polypropylene arches will be inserted into opposite bars along the long side. To do this, you will need to drill blind holes in the frame to about half the thickness of the timber, in my case 50 mm.

You shouldn't drill all the way through, the ribs will fall through. The arches are installed in increments of about half a meter. Naturally, the diameter of the holes is the same as that of the pipes - 20 mm.

Don't forget to chamfer the pipes so they will fit easier. The frame does not need additional fixation with screws, corners or any glue; the ribs will stand firmly anyway. And then, we are making a collapsible, temporary, and not a stationary structure.

There is one caveat here. On the market, polypropylene pipes are sold in 4m lengths. With such a length, the frame turns out to be high and not very comfortable.

For a one and a half meter base width, you will need to shorten the pipes to 3m. Or make the base frame half a meter wider, that is, not 3x1.5m, but 3x2m.

This mini-greenhouse is covered with polyethylene. It is better to buy a wide canvas, so that you do not have to make joints and overlaps. The film can be stapled, nailed with glazing beads, or simply pressed around the perimeter with bricks and lightly sprinkled with soil. I prefer to lay several bricks, so the polyethylene does not tear and can be used later.

To assemble such a greenhouse with my own hands in the spring and disassemble it in the fall takes me a maximum of 15–20 minutes. Plus, it doesn’t weigh much; if necessary, my neighbor and I can easily move our greenhouses anywhere. For the winter, I take everything apart, lubricate the wood with used machine oil and hide it in the shed; as for polyethylene and plastic tubes, nothing will happen to them anyway.

As I already mentioned, before deciding to make a frame for a greenhouse from a profile pipe myself, I experimented with more simple designs. From the same polypropylene pipe I had a tall, full-fledged greenhouse. Its cost is not high, and the instructions are not much more complicated than the portable version described above.

For a strong attachment high design on the ground, one wooden beam will not be enough. In this case, you will also need to assemble a wooden frame, but not from timber, but from a wide board, approximately 40x250 mm. The boards are placed vertically and fastened at the corners metal corners or the same scarves.

To prevent your greenhouse from being blown away, go under each tube into the ground, around the perimeter wooden frame at intervals of 50 - 70 cm, pieces of iron reinforcement are hammered in. The total length of such a peg is 80 cm, and you need to drive it halfway into the ground. After the pegs are driven in, frame tubes are put on them and additionally fixed to the wooden frame with metal clamps using self-tapping screws.

The length of one four-meter pipe is not enough to make a human-sized arched greenhouse, so each module will have to be assembled from at least 2 sectors. In my version, I took cross fittings, soldered two arcs at the top point and additionally installed a ridge horizontal guide.

But for stability, one upper ridge guide tube is not enough. I didn't want to mess around with soldering the intermediate beams through the same fittings, so I took straight tubes and pulled them to the arched frame with clamps. Not counting the ridge, at least 2 horizontal guides are mounted on each side.

As for the arrangement of the end walls on which the entrance door and ventilation window are based, it is of course better to solder them from the same polypropylene pipe and fittings. I have seen options when these structures were assembled from wooden blocks; to put it mildly, it does not look very elegant.

Don't be intimidated by soldering. You can rent a soldering iron, and believe me, you will master the process itself in 5 minutes. There's nothing complicated there. The necessary nozzles are installed on the tip on both sides and when the soldering iron is heated up, the fitting and tube are put on these nozzles, and after a few seconds they are removed and tightly connected to each other, that’s the whole science.

Such a greenhouse can stand for quite a long time, but the problem is that only polyethylene film. Newfangled polycarbonate attaches very poorly to a polypropylene frame. Sheets cellular polycarbonate more rigid and elastic, they will not stick to elastic polypropylene. That’s actually why I started building a frame for a greenhouse from a profile pipe.

Technique for assembling a frame from profile pipes

According to GOST 13663-86, profiled metal pipes are usually called products of square, rectangular, oval or mixed configurations. They can be cold-rolled, hot-deformed, seamed and seamless. But all this information is rather indirect; for a relatively small country greenhouse, as a rule, a square profile of 20x20 mm and a rectangular profile of 20x40 mm are used; the production technology itself is not so important here.

In addition, such pipes can be painted, galvanized or uncoated. This is where you have to choose. I would advise, if the assembly will be carried out using welding, to take ordinary clean pipes, because both paint and zinc coating, in any case, it will burn out, and all connections will have to be repainted. Plus, a clean pipe costs much less.

In the case when the price does not play too big a role and the assembly will be carried out using bolts and overhead “crabs,” you can safely take galvanized material. Only here you can no longer be greedy; you should buy only high-quality goods. Zinc coating from good Chinese friends can crack when bent, therefore, the whole point of such protection will be lost.

As for the now fashionable powder coating, the cost of these pipes is quite high, and most importantly, they are not suitable for our purposes. Initially, this coating was developed for the construction of furniture elements, that is, for use in enclosed spaces. Plus, painted pipes don’t “like” being bent.

Drawings and design calculations

A good drawing of a greenhouse frame made from a profile pipe is already half the battle. Here you need to decide whether it will be an arched, semicircular shape or a standard gable house. For single-slope option the calculation is the same as for a gable, only with a halving along the central vertical.

If we are interested in a stationary frame for a greenhouse made from a profile pipe, then initially we need to make it in full height, plus 300 - 400 mm of reserve. Otherwise, as long as it stands, you and everyone working in it will remember your savings, not with an evil, quiet word.

First, about the calculations of the arched structure. The average normal height of such a greenhouse ranges from 1900 – 2400 mm. We proceed from the fact that the arch is part, or rather half, of a regular circle.

From the school course we recall the formula for calculating the circumference of a circle L=π*D. Our number “π” is a constant value (3.14), and “D” (diameter) is known to be equal to two radii.

In fact, the height of the greenhouse is the radius. If we assume that it is equal to 2m, then for such a radius the circumference will be equal to L=(3.14*4m)=12.56m.

We divide this value in half and get the length of the curved arch 6.28 m. But there's a catch. The fact is that the standard length of both profiled pipes and sheets of cellular polycarbonate is 6 m, therefore, a piece of 28 cm will have to be sharpened, which already creates problems.

In practice, in order to “fit” into a solid pipe and not create unnecessary problems, the height of the frame should be 1850 - 1900 mm. The width of such a greenhouse will be 3.7 - 3.8 m, you agree, it is quite acceptable.

Now let's take care of the gable roof. The angle of the roof varies depending on the snow and wind load. In most of our great homeland it ranges from 30º to 45º. The average height of the side walls (before the beginning of the roof) is in the range of 1.7 - 2 m.

Now let's find out the height of the roof itself. Let, for example, the width of our greenhouse be 2 m, and the slope of the slope 30º. Let us recall the Pythagorean theorem, the square of the hypotenuse in it is equal to the sum of the squares of the legs.

Our hypotenuse is the length of the slope. We know one leg, it is equal to 2m. Now we remember geometry again, the leg lying opposite our angle of 30º should be equal to half the hypotenuse.

With these data you can create an equation: (a=2m); (b=x); (c=2x). Next (2x)²=2²+x²; 4x²=4+x²; 3x²=4; x²=4:3; hence x=√1.33(3)=1.154m. This is how we found out the length of the hypotenuse, therefore, the opposite leg will be half as large at = 0.58 m. If we take the height of the side wall to be 2m, then the height of the greenhouse along the ridge is 2.58m.

In addition, so that rain falls less on transparent side walls, the slope must be made with an overlap of 100 to 300 mm. According to our calculations, the length of the slope with an overlap of 300 mm will be equal to 1.45 m.

All these calculations are good if you are building an exclusive version of the design. You can do it easier, to be honest, I took my drawing of a greenhouse frame from a profile pipe from the network, similar material There’s plenty on the Internet now, and it’s freely available.

The width of the doorway is usually 700-800 mm. There is no need to make the ventilation vents too large; 300x500 mm or 500x500 mm is enough, the main thing is that they are on top. If you are planning a winter greenhouse, then near front door It is advisable to make a small vestibule in order to cut off the cold air.

Foundation arrangement

A frame for a greenhouse made from a profile pipe is a lightweight but capital structure and a foundation needs to be made for it. Pile options, such as bored or screw, are not suitable here, since the bottom of the structure must be reliably protected in order to protect the plants from frost on the soil.

Don't be alarmed, you won't need to dig a large pit or install heavy formwork. In this case, a strip, shallow, self-leveling foundation is sufficient.

When I poured my foundation, I dug a trench about one and a half bayonets of a standard shovel. At the bottom, about 5 - 7 cm was filled and compacted well sand and gravel cushion. On top I arranged a small formwork with a height of 200 mm; naturally, the height of the tape itself above the ground was also 200 mm. The width of the concrete strip is 300 mm.

Remember, a light shallow foundation must be reinforced. Otherwise, after the first winter, the forces of frost heaving will squeeze it out of the soil and it will crack all over. I knitted the reinforcement frame from 10 mm rod, and made the intermediate cells, on which the frame actually rested, from ordinary wire rod (6 mm steel wire).

In order to have something to hook onto the frame for the greenhouse from a profile pipe, I concreted every meter anchor bolt, although by and large it was enough to bring out several “tails” of the reinforcement and attach to them.

Pay attention to the corners of the formwork; the reinforcement should not just lie end to end. At the corners you need to take two-meter pieces of reinforcement, bend them at 90º and tie them to the main frame. Otherwise, after winter the corners will tear.

When everything is done, you can start pouring. For the first 2 - 3 days after pouring, you will need to cover the monolith with burlap or any other rag and make sure that it is constantly damp. In general, the period for complete setting of concrete according to GOST is 28 days, but according to experience, after a couple of weeks you can remove the formwork and install the frame.

A few words about pipe bending methods

A profile pipe is a specific thing, you can’t just bend it, the side walls can be deformed, a more subtle approach is needed here. And if you decide to give preference to an arched design, then there is no way without bending. Apart from the use of special equipment, there are 3 folk ways bending a profile pipe with your own hands.

To be honest, not all of them are good, but it will not hurt to know about them:

For the first method you will need at least a grinder and welding machine, and the welder’s skills must be strong. The point is to use a grinder to make a series of cuts at a pre-calculated frequency throughout the entire transverse depth of the pipe, leaving only the back wall intact. The width and frequency of cuts varies depending on the required bending radius; the larger the radius, the wider and more often the cuts should be. After this, the pipe is bent until it is completely closed between the walls of the cuts and these seams are welded. It turns out not very beautiful, but quite durable, plus it takes a lot of energy and time;

Next method pretty dubious. The pipe is first plugged with a wooden plug on one side, after which water is poured into it and plugged with the same plug on the reverse side. Next, you need to expose it to frost and as soon as the water sets slightly, begin to bend the pipe, leaning on some semicircular template, for example, on a reinforced concrete ring for wells. Personally, I have great doubts about this method. If you don’t calculate the time, the water will freeze and the pipe will at least burst, and at maximum it will break;
For the third method you will need clean, sifted and fire-heated river sand. As in the case of water, a plug is clogged, sand is poured inside and the second plug is closed. You also need to bend it based on a rounded template. My neighbor and I tried to bend pipes this way, the method certainly works, but we can’t talk about any bending accuracy. If you need one arch, then it will work, but if you need a dozen of them, then making them all the same is unlikely.

When building my arched greenhouse, I didn’t fool myself traditional methods and made it easier. Almost any metal depot has pipe benders for profile and regular pipes.

When the goods were selected, sorted and paid for at the checkout, I found the person responsible for this equipment, explained to him what I needed, left the drawings, figuratively speaking, gave him “for a bottle” and an hour later my order was ready. The service is inexpensive, and saves a lot of time and effort.

With bending of straight gable or gable modules single-pitch design everything is much simpler. This method is to some extent reminiscent of the first version of arch bending.

Having decided on the angle of inclination and marking the pipe, you need to cut out three triangular sectors from it with a grinder. After this, the remaining intact back wall is bent and the seams are welded. As shown in the diagram. The main thing here is not to make a mistake with the sizes of the cut sectors.

Greenhouse assembly

First we need to weld and secure the starting horizontal pipe around the perimeter of the foundation to embedded anchors. This is the basis, everything will be based on it. I recommend using electric welding for assembly.

The assembly algorithm for bolts and “crabs” is approximately the same, but you will have to tinker at least three times more. Don’t forget to put 2–3 layers of roofing material on top of the foundation strip on the tar; such waterproofing will protect the pipe from rotting from below and will serve as an additional seal.

The installation itself begins with the installation of the first vertical module with a door. In both gable and arched constructions, in addition to lower fixation to the embedded pipe, it is welded to two lateral, inclined spacers. Otherwise, he won’t hold on at the start. The opposite, outer module with a window is installed in the same way.

We have the extreme vertical supports, now we can move on to the horizontal connections. The ridge beam is welded or screwed first. Next, internal, intermediate vertical modules are installed one by one and welded on the sides and top to the ridge beam. Metal pipes are strong and reliable; you shouldn’t install modules too often; as a rule, they are installed in 1m increments.

The last to be installed are horizontal ties, which serve not only to increase the strength of the structure, but also to fix cellular polycarbonate sheets on them. As a rule, a 20x40 mm profiled pipe is used for load-bearing beams, and a 20x20 mm pipe is used for horizontal connections and other auxiliary supports.

By the way, horizontal connections in a gable structure must be installed with a distance of about 100 mm from the corners of the frame. You can’t do it end to end; you still have to hang cellular polycarbonate on them.

I would also like to give a couple of tips on buying ready-made factory frames. First of all, remember that the less detachable connections, the stronger the structure will be.

It is better that the arcs are solid, and the straight gable structures are made up of ready-made welded modules. The minimum pipe wall thickness is 1.2 mm. And the maximum distance between posts is 1 m.

Conclusion

A greenhouse on a personal plot is practical and useful; the harvest pleases from early spring to late autumn. It is believed that a frame made of profile pipe is the best option for the manufacture of such structures. Reliable, safe, functional, and with proper use and care it will last a long time.

In this article we will share the secrets of how to make a greenhouse yourself from a profile pipe: design the structure, decide on the dimensions. Here are step-by-step instructions on how to build a house for vegetables with your own hands.

Profile pipe for building a greenhouse - all the pros and cons

The profile pipe has a square or rectangular cross-section; according to the manufacturing method it can be:

hot- and cold-formed;
electric-welded, electric-welded cold-deformed.

thoroughly remove scale with a stiff brush;
treat with abrasive sandpaper to remove even invisible signs of corrosion;
wash with solvent;
prime;
paint.

Good to know: Rust can be removed by treating the affected areas with vinegar essence. Work should be carried out wearing rubber gloves and a respirator.

The profile pipe looks like a wooden beam with a straight side. The shape is convenient for attaching sheet material: polycarbonate, glass, film-frame elements - this greatly facilitates the manufacture of a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands.

The main types of corrugated pipes for the manufacture of greenhouses

Feasibility and choice of size of professional pipes

Drawing of a greenhouse made from a 20*20 mm profile pipe, the base is best made from 40*20 mm rolled steel

Do-it-yourself greenhouse from a profile pipe - drawings and diagrams of standard, ergonomic designs

A standard homemade greenhouse made from a profile pipe usually comes in three types:

Attached to a house with a pitched or asymmetrical oval roof.
Free-standing arched structure.
Greenhouse with a house made of profile pipes with a gable roof.

Drawings of greenhouses made of profile pipes, with dimensions, on a strip foundation

Greenhouse frame made of profile pipe - drawings and calculations

Detailed drawing of an arched building

Let's say the height of a greenhouse made from a corrugated pipe is 2 m, then L (circumference) = 3.14 * 4 = 12.56 m. We need half of this length - 12.56:2 = 6.28 m. But this is not rational when When using polycarbonate sheathing, it turns out that one sheet whose length is 6.0 m is not enough; you will have to sharpen a small strip, the same with the standard length of the professional pipe. To avoid unnecessary costs, it is necessary to reduce the height of the greenhouse, rationally if H = 1.85-1.9 m, with a building width of 3.7-3.8 m.

Scheme of a greenhouse made from a profile pipe; such a design can be made with your own hands with virtually no waste of material

b=x, therefore,

Making a greenhouse from a profile pipe, drawing of a standard gable building

Let us note an important nuance: the roof slope should be 100-300 mm longer than the greenhouse itself, so its length = 1.154+0.1(0.3) = 1.25-1.45 m - this must be taken into account when cutting the profile pipe for greenhouse rafter system.

About the entrance

It is better to enter the greenhouse from the end side, the height of the door is 1.9-2.1 m, width 700-800 mm, for convenient entry of pots with seedlings and tools. For winter greenhouses made from corrugated pipe, it is recommended to attach a small vestibule; this will help avoid cold air flows at the entrance.

How to bend profile pipes for a greenhouse

Arched greenhouses made from corrugated pipe are considered the most practical; they have good aerodynamic characteristics, so they can easily withstand snow loads and gusts of wind. The easiest way is to order a service for bending corrugated pipes at a specialized metal warehouse; you can buy a pipe bender, but this is not advisable.

There is a folk technology on how to bend a profile pipe yourself without deforming it. You will need a radius template, which should be made in advance.

Method one - at any time of the year

River sand is sifted, washed and dried. A fire is lit, a metal sheet is placed - an improvised baking sheet, sand is poured in a thin layer and calcined until there is no evaporation from the surface.

Method two - winter

Method three - simple, but you will need equipment

Watch a useful idea on how to bend a profile pipe for a greenhouse; the video details how to make a pipe bender yourself and make an arc of the required size.

How to weld a greenhouse from metal profile pipes - step-by-step instructions

For building a greenhouse with your own hands, a galvanized profile pipe with ribs 40*20 mm is best suited, for connecting parts 20*20 mm. High-quality material has a zinc coating on the outside and inside. Galvanized profile pipe for greenhouses is very light, the frame can be moved or transported to another area, and a reliable protective coating prevents corrosion. For large structures, galvanized corrugated pipe with reinforcement is used; it can withstand loads of up to 90 kg per 1 m2. According to GOST, a product made taking into account all technological requirements will last 2-3 decades. High-quality galvanizing, even in case of mechanical damage: bends, dents, deformations, maintains the integrity of the coating, without cracks or scratches to the base.

Important: Frame parts for a greenhouse made of steel pipe without a protective coating are recommended to be assembled by welding. It is better to connect galvanized elements using bolted connections and special connecting elements and corners.

A greenhouse made of galvanized pipe 25x25, the photo shows an example of how to properly attach the components of a collapsible structure

Foundation for a greenhouse made of corrugated pipe

Greenhouse structures made from profile pipes are often installed on a strip foundation, but the final choice depends on geodetic studies of the site. In an economical option, you can use a columnar base.

We clear the area of debris and weeds, uproot the roots, mark it with posts, stretch a rope around the perimeter, remove the fertile layer of soil, 300 mm thick. We dig a trench 700-800 mm deep, level the bottom, fill it with sand and crushed stone, and tamp it.

We assemble a frame from corrugated reinforcement with a cross-section of 8-12 mm, depending on the scale of the building. We install formwork, put together panels from unedged boards, moisture-resistant plywood, you can use durable plastic panels. We check the geometry, secure it with slopes, and tighten it along the top with bars. We fill it with concrete, insert the mortgages, we will tie the frame to them, and leave it until it is fully formed for 4 weeks.

Diagram of the foundation structure and method of attaching the frame

How to weld a greenhouse from a profile pipe with your own hands

The photo shows how to assemble a greenhouse frame from a 20x40 mm profile pipe

We lay a lathing made of a 40*20, 20*20 mm profile across the arched structure; this will serve as a base for sheet covering material and strengthen the frame. Using self-tapping screws, we attach a connecting plastic profile to the purlins, insert polycarbonate, 6-12 mm thick, into the grooves, and secure with plugs. We screw the edges onto thermal washers. For ventilation, you should make vents. Better 2-3 on each side. Fittings for comfortable opening of openings can be purchased in specialized stores.

In conclusion, there is a video instruction with detailed explanations on how to weld the greenhouse frame, base and walls with your own hands.

Strapping, reinforcement, rafter system, painting.

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