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DIY brick slab. DIY heating stoves: diagrams, features, basic materials. Video - How to fold a stove with your own hands

None country house cannot do without a stove, as it will both feed and warm. Today, gas pipelines have been installed in many villages, and it would seem possible to switch to more convenient way heating. However, many homeowners are in no hurry to abandon brick stoves, which provide a completely different, special warmth. In addition, in regions rich in forests, where there are no problems with firewood, it is possible to save on gas by having a brick stove in the house.

To find out how to fold, you need to study in detail the layout and masonry technology. Before you start studying a specific option, you should consider several models, since there are compact and massive structures. You need to choose a stove that will take up less space in the house, but will have all the functions that are in demand in the household.

There are a lot of models of brick stoves. Experienced stove makers can make their own changes to finished projects, since they already know by heart where and how the internal channels through which smoke is removed should go. Thanks to correct scheme their placement in the furnace design, it will heat up evenly and give off most of heat into the room. It is better for novice masters to strictly follow the already drawn up order schemes, without deviating a single step from them, since even one is incorrect laid brick can ruin all this rather labor-intensive work.

Types of brick kilns

Based on their functionality, stoves are divided into three main types - cooking, heating and. Choosing suitable design, first of all you need to decide what exactly will be required of her.

The hob has a cast iron panel for cooking food and heating water. Typically such ovens have small size and are popular for installation in small private houses and in the country. Of course, a cooking stove can, in addition to cooking food, also warm a small room.

The heating and cooking stove is a multifunctional massive structure

A heating and cooking stove can warm a house or country house with large area, and its design sometimes includes a bed, and in addition to the stove, an oven, a tank for heating water and a niche for drying vegetables and fruits are built in.

Always compact. It does not include a hob and serves only to heat the premises. Such a structure can warm two rooms if it is placed between them, built into the wall.

Choosing the optimal location for the furnace

By selecting the desired model stove, you need to look after it suitable place. The structure can be installed against a wall, in the middle of a room, or built into a wall. The choice of location will depend on the size of the stove structure and the desires of the home owner.

• Stove in the middle large room, can divide it into two different zones, for example, in the kitchen and dining room or living room. Hob will go into the kitchen, and flat wall with well-made masonry it will become a designer decoration for the living room. Perhaps, immediately or over time, there will be a desire to add a wall to the stove and completely separate the two rooms - in this case, the partition should be isolated from the stove non-flammable material. You can use asbestos sheets for this or install brickwork.
• It is not advisable to build a stove near an external wall, since there it will quickly cool down.
• When installing a stove between two rooms, it must also be separated from the walls with heat-resistant materials.
• The proposed construction site must be carefully measured and be sure to take into account that the foundation should be 100 ÷ 120 mm larger than the base of the furnace. In addition to the base area, you need to calculate the height of the building so that it fits well into the room in all respects.
• To make it easier to work, you need to find an ordering diagram for the selected model.

Having decided on the model and installation location, you can purchase materials for construction and prepare tools.

Tools, building materials for laying a brick stove

Depending on the size of the furnace, it requires different amounts of materials and additional cast iron and steel parts, but the tools needed for masonry are the same.

Tools

Of the tools and equipment for the construction of any furnace you will need:

The “goat” is a scaffold that will make it easier to work at height when the stove is raised above human height. They are convenient because the stove master can not only climb onto them, but also place a container with a solution next to him and even put the tools and building materials necessary for this stage of work.

“Goats” will be needed when laying the top rows

Another version of the stand, more compact, is the “tragus”. You need to have two such devices, because if you place them at a certain distance from each other and lay thick boards on top, you will get the same platform. Can also be used separately, as stairs.

You can get by with a couple of more compact trestles, making temporary plank flooring on them

The following set of tools will need to be prepared:

1. A pick will be needed to separate and trim the brick.

2. A broom made from sponge, for removing dried sand and pieces of mortar from the finished laid rows of masonry and mopping inside the masonry.

3. Corner - will help bring the corners inside and outside the oven exactly 90 degrees.

4. A plumb line is needed to check the verticality of the walls.

5. A kiln hammer is also required to separate bricks into pieces and chip off small protrusions of hardened mortar.

6. Pliers will be needed for biting, bending and straightening the wire.

7. A rubber hammer is necessary for tapping bricks in masonry if it is difficult for them to fit.

8. A chisel will also be needed for splitting bricks, as well as dismantling old masonry.

9. Trowel (trowel) different sizes- for applying the solution and removing excess excess.

10. The rule will be necessary to level the surface of the foundation.

11. A lead scriber is used for marking, especially in cases where it is planned to decorate the stove with tiles.

12. The knocker is a piece of pipe, which is also used for cutting tiles; instead of a hammer, it is used to hit a knife.

13. Wooden spatula - for mixing and grinding the solution.

14. Metal scriber rod for marking.

15. A level is needed to check the horizontality of the rows and the verticality of the walls.

16. A rasp is used to remove sagging and grind in lumps.

17. Jointing is necessary for neatness of the seams if the stove will not be plastered or finished with decorative tiles.

18. Container for mixing the solution.

19. A sieve that will help you make masonry mortar thin.

Construction materials

The amount of materials will depend on the selected furnace, and their list is almost always the same. For purely heating type no hob, oven cabinet, or water tank is required. But usually the standard set of cast iron and steel elements consists of the following items:

1. Blower door.

2. Door for fireboxes

3. Cleaning doors ovens.

4. Chimney valve.

5. A burner made of several rings.

6. Hob.

7. Grate.

From others metal elements you may need:

1. Oven.

2. Tank for water.

3. Metal corner 50 × 50 mm.

4. Metal strips 3 ÷ 4 mm thick.

5. Steel wire.

Directly for masonry you will need to purchase:

1. Red hardened brick.

2. Fireclay brick.

3. Ingredients for clay mortar or a ready-made dry heat-resistant mixture for laying stoves.

4. For the foundation you will need cement, crushed stone, sand, formwork material and a sheet of roofing felt for waterproofing.

5. Heat-resistant material will also be needed for protective finishing of the walls of the house and metal sheet or ceramic floor tiles.

Prices for refractory bricks

Fire brick

Preparing a site for the construction of a stove

Usually the foundation for the furnace is poured simultaneously with the general foundation of the house, although it is not rigidly connected to it. However, it often happens that the furnace is erected in a finished building.

Further actions depend on what kind of floor is installed in the room.

• If the foundation is concrete and completely poured, according to the principle of a slab, and the structure of the stove is not designed to be too massive, then you can begin to lay the stove directly on the concrete floor, having first laid a sheet of roofing material under the masonry.
• If the foundation is strip or the floor is wooden, then you will have to build the foundation from scratch.

Foundation

The foundation must be deepened into the ground. To do this, a place for the stove is marked on the floor, and then the boards or thin concrete floor are removed.

• A pit is dug in the exposed soil, 400-500 mm deep.
• At the bottom of the pit, a “cushion” of 100 mm is made of sand, and then of the same thickness - from crushed stone, the layers are well compacted.
• Next, along the perimeter of the pit, formwork is installed for pouring concrete - it should rise above the main floor by 100 ÷ 120 mm
• The lower layer of the foundation, up to about half the height, may consist of crushed stone, sand and cement. It is poured, distributed in an even layer over the entire area, and left to harden.
• After the bottom layer has set well, you can pour top layer, which will consist of a thinner solution. The space is filled with fully prepared concrete mortar and leveled using the rule, and the top formwork boards will serve as beacons for this. The foundation must dry well and gain the required strength. To do this, it must be moistened with water starting from the second day, which will improve the uniformity of ripening. cement mortar and will not allow cracks to form.

• A fully finished foundation (after 3 ÷ 4 weeks) is covered with roofing felt to create a layer of waterproofing. Then markings are made on this surface - the shape of the stove base is drawn, along which the first row will be laid out.

Dry masonry

• Experienced craftsmen recommend that a novice stove maker take his time laying bricks on the mortar so as not to make mistakes. Especially if this work is being carried out for the first time, it is best to dry out the entire furnace structure.
• By carrying out this process carefully, with a constant eye on the existing diagram, you can understand internal structure chimney channels and the installation of a firebox and vent.
• For dry masonry, you need to prepare auxiliary slats with a thickness of 5 mm, which will determine the distance between the bricks - during the main masonry it will be filled with mortar, forming seams.
• After the entire stove model up to the chimney pipe has been laid out, it is disassembled again, while the bricks of each row can be stacked separately, if there is enough space in the room for this, and numbered, indicating the row and the specific part in it. This is especially important if, when laying dry, the bricks were adjusted to the required size.
• It should immediately be noted that during the final laying, it is also better to first lay out each row dry again, for control, and then immediately fix it with mortar.
• In addition, you need to know that when laying bricks on the mortar, it is applied with a thickness of about 7 mm, then the brick is pressed and, if necessary, tapped with a rubber hammer. Excess mortar is immediately picked up with a trowel.
• Having laid two or three rows until the solution has set, the seams are decorated with jointing. If suddenly the solution is not wet enough, you can sprinkle it with a little water from a spray bottle.
• We must not forget that during laying, constant monitoring of the vertical and horizontal rows is necessary.

Knowing these nuances, you can proceed directly to the masonry.

The presented video shows a diagram of the construction of a compact heating stove, which is suitable even for a very small room. True, there are no other additional functions included in it:

Video: heating stove for small spaces

Compact "Swedish"

Convenient, versatile and fairly compact Swedish oven

Can be called the neatest and most compact oven, suitable for small rooms. This stove can be called a heating and cooking stove, since it has a high body with smoke exhaust channels located inside, which means that when it is fired, the walls will warm up well, releasing heat into the room. At the same time, the design also includes a hob.

The first picture shows a “Swede”, which has a wider pediment than in the second photo, since it is supplemented with an oven, and instead of cleaning windows there is a drying niche above the stove. This version of the stove is twice as wide as the second model.

This is also a “Swedish”, but of a slightly different design

The ordering diagram shown below almost completely corresponds to the stove in the presented photo, with some exceptions: instead of two windows for cleaning, there is a niche above the hob, a slightly different location of the pipe - on the other side of the structure, and consistent roundness of the corners. When laid in this order, the stove will look something like this.

The structure is laid out based on the ordering diagram:

Layout diagram for laying a compact heating and cooking "Swedish"

Although this diagram shows that they begin to lay out the blower chamber from the first row, after all It’s worth laying it out in a continuous plane and only from the second row can you start working on the blower chamber. But, in order not to create confusion, the description will go exactly according to the diagram, and the first continuous row can be called “zero”.

• So, the formation of the blower chamber begins from the first row.
• A blower door is installed on the second row. The door is secured with wire and temporarily supported with bricks until it is lined with masonry on all sides.

• From the fourth row, two chambers for cleaning begin to be removed and doors are also installed on them.
• A grate is laid on the fifth row.

• The firebox door is also secured with wire to the sixth row, and is also temporarily supported by bricks mounted on the grate, and Also, if necessary, a support is also placed on the front side of the door.

• On the seventh row, the beginning of the vertical smoke exhaust channels is laid.
• On the ninth row, the firebox door is covered with a brick, the wire of which is secured and tucked into the seams between the rows.
• On the eleventh row, a hob is laid on the left opening, and strips of asbestos are placed under its edges. The front lower edge of the cooking chamber is framed by a steel angle.
• From the twelfth to the sixteenth row the cooking chamber is displayed.
• On the seventeenth row, metal strips are laid, and its upper edge is formed with a corner.
• The next two rows are laid solid, leaving only three smoke exhaust channels.
• On the twentieth row, another door is installed, and a cleaning chamber and a drying niche begin to form.
• At 22- ohm row, the chamber door is covered with masonry.
• On the 23rd row, the chamber is completely blocked, and at its end a hole is left that will continue the smoke exhaust channel.
• On 24- ohm a row of metal strips cover the drying niche.
• At 25- ohm install the cleaning chamber door.
• At 27- ohm the door is covered with masonry.
• At 28- ohm The entire chamber is completely blocked.
• At 30- ohm In a row, two valves are installed on the smoke exhaust channels. First, the frame of this part is laid on the mortar, and then the valve is inserted into it.

• From 31st to 35th th a row is laid out a segment.
• From the 35th to the 38th, the construction of the pipe fluff begins.
• Next comes the laying of the pipe, which already has your own numbering. From the first to the 26th row, the shape of the pipe does not change, you just need to very carefully monitor the evenness and inner purity(from solution residues) of smoke exhaust channels. This part of the pipe is called the riser.
• On the third row, another door is placed on the cleaning chamber.
• At 27- ohm Another chimney valve is installed in a row.
• At 29- ohm they expand the pipe by one row, and by 30- ohm it is brought into its initial form.
• Starting from the 31st row, the narrowest part of the pipe is laid out, which is discharged through the roof.

When passing chimney through attic floor, it must be isolated from it with flammable materials - it could be asbestos, mineral wool or expanded clay, poured into a box located around the entire perimeter of the pipe.

The hole in the roof through which the pipe passes must be closed after construction. waterproofing material, which is applied both to the pipe and to the roof.

Installation of other oven elements

As mentioned above, there may be other elements built into the oven, so it is worth considering how some of them are installed.

Oven

If the design includes an oven, it is most often installed on the same level as the firebox or hob. This is important for its rapid and uniform heating.

• At the place where it will be installed, first install metal corners- they will become reliable supports for the cabinet.

• Next, the oven is wrapped with asbestos cord - this material is heat-resistant and will help the thin metal of the cabinet last longer.

Video: technology for laying an efficient stove with an oven

Prices for masonry mixtures and special-purpose adhesives

Masonry mixtures and special-purpose adhesives

Hot water tank

The water heating tank can be installed in different ways. Sometimes it is built into the design of the furnace, in other cases it is placed on top. The main thing is that it is located next to the smoke exhaust duct, from which the water will receive the necessary thermal energy. In this case, you need to provide a hole for filling the tank with water and a tap from which it can be taken. It is advisable to make the water tank from a stainless alloy, otherwise very soon yellow water will come out of it, unsuitable for water procedures.

Another option for installing this water heating element is to install it at the same level as the hob, above the firebox, when it will only heat up from below. In this case, it is best to place a cast iron or thick steel plate under the tank, otherwise its bottom will burn out very quickly. The container in this installation option is not embedded in the walls of the oven.

The disadvantage of this setup is that less space remains for the hob, or the firebox will have to be made deeper, which means the overall dimensions of the stove will increase, which is not always possible in tight spaces.

When choosing a stove model for your home, you need to think through everything in advance - what functions should be implemented in it, its size and design. Based on this, it is worth choosing a building design with an ordering scheme.

It should be noted that laying a stove is a real art, and not even everyone experienced craftsman everything always turns out “excellent”. Therefore, if you do not have any skills in this work, then it is better to invite a specialist who will help you do everything correctly.

At a time when a stationary solid fuel stove was the only existing means of heating a home, the profession of a stove maker enjoyed great popularity and respect. Today, to arrange individual heating, you can use many different units operating on a wide variety of fuels, but brick stoves still remain in demand.

Nowadays, finding a truly competent stove maker is not an easy task. And you don’t need to do this, because you can build a full-fledged stove with your own hands.

Main types of furnaces

Before you start self-masonry ovens, check out the features existing varieties similar units. The stoves are:

• heating. Designed exclusively for heating. Such ovens have extremely simple design and are laid out in the shortest possible time and with the least effort compared to other types of structures;
• heating and cooking. The most popular and sought after option. At the same time they heat the house and allow you to cook food;

There are also improved varieties of heating and cooking stoves with built-in kitchen stove or even a full-fledged oven.

Fireplace stoves belong to a separate category. This great option for a modern private home. Similar designs cope perfectly with the tasks of heating rooms and have an attractive appearance. A properly laid out and finished fireplace stove will be a worthy addition to the interior of both a small country house and an expensive private villa.

The diagrams of modern stoves distinguish them not only by their purpose, but also by their shape. Most often, rectangular and square-shaped units are installed in private homes. But if you wish, you can lay out a round oven. Select a specific option taking into account the characteristics of the room and your own preferences.

Of course, you can lay out the oven yourself, and numerous diagrams will help you do this in the shortest possible time. However, when performing such work, remember that any stove, regardless of its purpose, shape and other characteristics, must fully comply with current fire safety standards.

Choosing a location and type of foundation for the stove

Before starting to lay the stove, pay due attention to finding a place to place it. For example, if the unit is placed in the middle of the room, it will be able to give off much more heat, warming up from all sides and evenly heating the air around it.

If you place the stove against the wall (and this option is used most often), the floor will constantly “walk” cold air. Therefore, in in this regard you need to make the decision yourself.

Preliminarily determine the installation location of the combustion door. This element must be installed so that in the future you can load fuel into the stove as conveniently and quickly as possible, without spreading debris from firewood or coal throughout the house. Usually the fire door is located on the side of the kitchen or some little-frequented room.

The finished brick stove will have quite an impressive weight. In order for the device to stand as reliably and as long as possible, you need to prepare an individual concrete foundation for it.

Furnace design features

Traditional brick ovens have a fairly simple design. However, the apparent simplicity at first glance makes it possible to achieve very high levels of productivity and efficiency.

The main elements of the body brick oven are the firebox and chimney. Cooking ovens additionally equipped with stoves and/or ovens; it is also possible to install a tank for heating water.

The firebox is main part furnace unit. It is into the firebox that firewood or other fuel used for heating is loaded. The firebox can have a wide variety of sizes. There are several things to consider when determining the appropriate dimensions: important factors, such as:

• type of fuel used. If you will heat the stove with wood, make a firebox 50-100 cm high;
• required performance;
• required volume.

To arrange the firebox, use refractory bricks. The thickness of the walls of the structure in question cannot be less than half a brick.

The chimney is also one of the main elements of any heating stove. The chimney is designed to remove flue gases with various harmful inclusions formed during the operation of the stove.

At the chimney design stage, try to think through everything so that its design has a minimum number of bends and turns. Ideally, the chimney should be completely vertical. Any kind of bends will lead to deterioration of traction and a decrease in the efficiency of heating the room.

To the number important elements The design of a brick oven includes an ash pit chamber. Ash will collect in this compartment. Also, through the ash pan, air is supplied inside the unit to the fuel. The ash chamber is located under the grate and is equipped with its own door. Traditionally, the height of the ash pit is 3 bricks.

What mortar should I use for masonry?

The reliability and durability of the finished stove directly depends on the quality of the masonry mortar. The masonry will be carried out using a sand-clay based mortar.

There is nothing complicated in preparing the solution. Take clay, fill it with water and soak it. Sift the mixture through a sieve and then stir into “clay milk.” Finally, add some water to obtain a sufficiently viscous and plastic solution.

Remember, the reliability and strength of the stove directly depends on the correct preparation of the masonry mortar. If you do everything right, the stove will effectively heat your home for many years. Violate the technology or decide to save a lot on materials - the thermal unit is unlikely to be able to fully reveal its potential and stand for any length of time.

Main stages and important features of furnace laying

From the moment the foundation is poured to the start of construction, 3-4 weeks should pass. During this time, the base will gain the necessary strength and will be able to withstand the weight of the brick oven. The work in question requires maximum responsibility and concentration on the part of the performer. Any mistakes can lead to irreparable consequences, so get ready for the work in advance and allocate enough time to complete it.

The laying of the furnace is carried out in several stages.

First stage. Lay out the ash pan and the lower part of the first cap from brick. Carry out the laying using the previously discussed sand-clay mortar.

Second stage. Install the ash pan door into the masonry. Use galvanized wire to secure the door.

Third stage. Install a grate over the ash pan chamber.

Fourth stage. Mount the firebox. Cover inner part this compartment with refractory bricks. Place the bricks “on edge”. At this stage you need to use a special masonry mortar. It is prepared in the same way as the standard one, but instead of simple clay, refractory clay is used, i.e. fireclay. Secure the combustion chamber door using a steel plate and the wire you are already familiar with.

Fifth stage. Continue standard laying until you reach the 12th row. Having reached this row, close the combustion chamber and lay the tiles with burners evenly. This stove must be made of cast iron. Check the evenness of the installation using a building level.

Sixth stage. Lay out the first cap. It is erected at the left edge of the stove. At the same stage, a canal for the summer passage is being built.

Seventh stage. Install the stove and line the walls of the cooking compartment. Lay out the previously mentioned lower cap.

Eighth stage. Install the valve for the mentioned summer passage channel. This valve is located in inner corner cooking compartments.

Ninth stage. Lay the masonry up to the 20th row. When you reach this row, close the brewing compartment and the first hood. Be sure to leave the required number of holes in the solid masonry for the summer passage and lifting channel, as well as the vent for the cooking compartment. Place the bricks on steel corners - this will ensure higher strength and reliability of the stove.

Tenth stage. Close the portal of the brewing compartment with hinged fireplace doors. It is better if the doors have heat-resistant glass inserts. This solution will allow you to monitor the fuel combustion process and admire the flame.

Eleventh stage. Install cleaning doors for easy soot removal. For installation, choose a location that is easiest for you to get to.

Twelfth stage. Lay out the walls of the hood almost to the top edge of the wall opening. Cover the top of the stove with a couple of rows of bricks. Fill the gap between the top of the stove and the jumper with mineral wool. Thanks to this, additional thermal insulation will be provided and heating efficiency will be slightly increased.

Thirteenth stage. Place a decorative band around the upper perimeter of the unit.

Fourteenth stage. Proceed with the installation of the chimney. It is better if the chimney is made of brick. This design will last much longer than the same metal or asbestos pipes.

At the end, all you have to do is lay out the chimney to the end and, if desired, complete external finishing stoves. The simplest option is plastering. For the rest, be guided by your own preferences and available budget.

Thus, although laying the stove is not a simple task, it can be done with your own hands. It is enough to simply understand the technology and follow the instructions in everything. Remember, the materials for work must be of the highest quality. And stove designs that have been tested over the years will allow you to independently build a unit that will efficiently heat your home for many years without any problems or complaints.

Good luck!

Video - Do-it-yourself stove laying diagrams

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When you think about building own home, there is a desire to make it warm and cozy. Modern gas and electric boilers, converters, etc., but they cannot create a cozy atmosphere. That's why stove heating is in active use again.

The stove is a highlight of the design, and economical heating device. It is much easier to find an experienced stove maker to lay a stove. But this long-forgotten craft has only just begun to gain popularity, and there are very few experienced stove makers. Therefore, a reasonable question arises: “How to build a brick oven with your own hands?”

Laying out a stove correctly requires a lot of effort, and you will also have to study a lot of instructions for laying brick stoves.

Types of stoves

The first step is to choose a stove that is right for you. The most popular are:

• Dutch;
• Russian;
• Swede.

Dutch

This design was created by Russian craftsmen. The design is not complicated and does not require much space. But this does not prevent it from giving off accumulated heat well.

Russian stove

Large-sized and multifunctional oven. But its size is justified by the presence of free space where you can relax. There is a firebox under the bed where you can cook food. Next to the firebox there is a stove, and just below there is a vent that keeps the fire going. There is also a niche for freshly prepared food.

A Russian stove can easily heat a room larger than 40 square meters. But a full-fledged robot will require a lot of raw materials.

Swede

Relate to compact options. Length and width - 1 meter. The main function is to heat the room, but you can also cook food on it. The unusual thing about such a stove is that the stove is built in the kitchen, and the rest of the stove will be in another part of the house.

This design is fire hazardous. But the risk of fire is reduced with the help of dampers.

Construction rules

A homemade stove must meet fire safety requirements. Therefore, special attention must be paid to preparation for construction.

• Decide on the location of the stove.
• Prepare the correct drawing.
• Buy quality materials for construction.
• Purchase of tools.
• Create a cost estimate.

Correctly drawn up drawings will become your main assistants, since it is the drawings of a homemade brick oven that help you avoid many mistakes. Ready plans can be found on the Internet.

When choosing an installation location, you need to take into account the area of ​​the room and the type of oven. It’s difficult to calculate everything on your own, so it’s easier to use a reduced model of a brick oven, a photo of which is available on the Internet.

Selection of working tools

When laying a furnace, measuring, construction and many other auxiliary tools are used:

• Jointing - pours the mortar into the seams and gives the joints an aesthetic appearance. It will come in handy if the stove is left without lining or plaster.
• Trowel.
• Hammer-pick.
• Shovel for mortar.
• Plumb.
• Stove line.

Materials

The heat transfer and durability of the stove will depend on the material used in construction. Therefore this stage is very important.

For cladding use ceramic brick– brand M-500. It is insensitive to temperature changes. And the combustion chamber needs to be laid out only from refractory bricks.

In addition to bricks, the following is used:

• Sifted sand.
• Clay – normal fat content.

Foundation for the stove

The basis for homemade stove done at the time of construction, since a brick oven requires a strong foundation

First, they dig a hole. It is necessary to take into account that the width and length of the pit must exceed the size of the foundation by 20 cm

Afterwards, the pit is leveled and half filled with sifted sand, compacted well and leveled. Waterproofing is laid on top of the sand, and formwork is installed. Next, all free space is filled with concrete mortar, bringing it to ground level. Be sure to check the surface for horizontalness using a building level.

After 5-6 days the concrete should harden. After that, the formwork is dismantled, waterproofing is laid and the foundation is brought to the floor. There are two ways to bring the foundation to the floor:

• lay out of brick;
• re-build the formwork, filling it with concrete up to the beginning of the floor. All voids are filled with sand, compacting it.

Recipe concrete mortar- one part of cement contains 2.5 parts of sand and four parts of gravel.

Masonry process

The masonry mixture is prepared from sifted sand and clay. The clay is left in water for a couple of hours, after which it is sifted through a sieve.

First, the outer layer, which consists of bricks, is assembled, and then the middle. There should be no voids in the seams, so fill them with a clay mixture.

The first rows are built using solid bricks. The first row of stitches requires dressing. After the first rows are ready, the brick will have to be cut.

The chopped side of the brick should be inside the masonry. This rule is also used when constructing smoke ducts. The chimney is built from red burnt brick. And the opening of the firebox is created using a metal corner, a “lock” layout.

Photos of brick stoves

Construction of a brick kiln is a rather complex and labor-intensive process. You can build it with your own hands, but in this case you should be extremely careful and strictly follow the brick laying scheme (order). If this is your first time laying a brick oven with your own hands, then it is better to get detailed advice from a specialist or lay out the oven under his guidance.

Choosing a brick kiln

In large private houses and cottages, water heating boilers are most often used for heating. To heat buildings with 2-3 living spaces, it is enough to erect a brick oven. It not only retains heat much longer, but also creates a special microclimate in the room and can become a real decoration of the home. However, a brick oven also has significant drawback: This structure is very large and takes up too much space.

There are several types of brick kilns:
in the ranking of such structures Swede deservedly takes first place; it is compact, has a hob and is equipped three-channel shield(a heat exchanger that allows you to retain heat for a long time, in the form of a wall with chimneys inside, can simultaneously serve as load-bearing wall or located separately); their varieties include the designs of Kuznetsov, Buslaev, etc.;

Appearance Swedish oven and erection of a wall with a three-channel shield

Despite its name, dutch oven With vertical chimneys(channels in which heat is retained and through which smoke is removed) was invented by Russian craftsmen; has high heat transfer; usually has 2 channels: summer and winter, which simplifies kindling after a long break; in classic versions, a hob is not provided, however, there are variations of stoves with both a built-in fireplace and a hob;

Classic Dutch oven with vertical chimneys

Chimneys with vertical (like Dutch) and horizontal arrangement channels

Russian stove Keeps warm for a very long time: up to 2-3 days; has a gas threshold (a wall between the chamber and the mouth of the furnace); it takes a very long time to warm up, and it takes up plenty of space; its dimensions are such that several people can fit on its bed at the same time; That is why in recent years such designs have been used quite rarely.

Russian stove

By wall thickness all furnaces are divided into:

Thin-walled: one brick, ideal option for country houses;

Thick-walled: built in premises intended for permanent residence, keep warm for a long time;

Combined: thick walls are laid out only in the firebox; the chimney has thin walls.

Single and double bell ovens Kuznetsov is one of the most common variations of the Swedish stove. Unlike usual channel, the exit of hot gases through chimneys is carried out not only due to draft, but also naturally due to the special design of the smoke channels. The smoke in them first rises upward, and when it cools down, it falls down. Since there are significantly fewer heat leaks in them (after all, warm air, until it cools down, cannot find a way out), such stoves are capable of storing heat for a long time.

Bell chimney diagram

A brick oven may not have finishing or be covered with metal, plastered, laid out ceramic tiles or facing stone or laid under jointing (with compaction and giving the seams a special shape).

Joining the seams of the furnace

Furnace finishing options

Do you need a foundation for a furnace?

Brick is a fairly heavy material. The weight of a folded stove can reach 8-10 tons, so a solid foundation for the stove is needed. Otherwise, due to movements in the soil and its expansion during freezing, cracks may form in it or it may completely collapse. Sometimes, for more uniform shrinkage, if there are several stoves or fireplaces in the house, separate bases are made not only for them, but also for the main (located in a separate area) chimney.

Furnace foundation

Since the subsidence of the soil under the stove and the house will be different, the foundation for such a structure should be built separately from the base of the structure itself. A gap of 50 mm must be made between the main and furnace foundations, which is filled with sand.

If the stove is being erected in an already constructed building, it is allowed to install a structure weighing up to 1200 kg (300-350 bricks) on the floor panel. On wooden floor construction of structures up to 700 kg is permissible.

The best foundation for a massive heating furnace is concrete. For M400 cement, the ratio of cement, sand and crushed stone will be 1:3:5. When using the M250 brand, the proportions change: 1:2:4. The depth of the concrete pad depends on the weight of the furnace, the density of the soil and the depth of soil freezing. It will be different in each region of Russia (see photo).

Soil freezing depth

1. The foundation should protrude from the edges of the stove in each direction onto the brick (10-15 cm). For a firebox, this distance may be slightly larger – up to 30 cm.

2. The bottom of the pit prepared for the foundation is compacted. Then a layer of waterproofing is laid on it.

3. Before laying the solution, a 10-centimeter cushion of crushed stone and 15 cm of rubble stone is poured into the pit. All free space between the stones is also filled with crushed stone and filled with mortar.

5. To prevent the solution from cracking during the drying process, it is poured into the foundation pit in layers, and each layer must stand for at least a day.

6. After removing the formwork, the resulting gaps are filled with sand, spilled with water and carefully compacted.

Laying the foundation for the furnace at the stage of building construction

Important! A massive furnace should be erected only after the solution has completely hardened. The foundation gains 50% strength after 15 days. Final hardening occurs only after 28 days.

Masonry tools

To work you will need:

Trowel for scooping and laying mortar; The most convenient tool to use is the one with the handle slightly moved to the side;

Pickaxe or hammer-pickaxe: for chopping incomplete bricks;

A grinder with a diamond blade for sawing them into halves and quarters;

A mallet with a rubber tip for tapping bricks during laying;

Twisted mooring cord;

Plumb for checking vertical surfaces;

Construction level;

A square with which the angles will be adjusted;

Roulette.

Tools for laying a furnace

To level walls and corners, you can use a tie-down cord and a metal corner

Masonry mortar

Cement mixture under action high temperatures will crack quickly, so for laying out stoves use only clay-sand mortar. To install a pipe passing through the attic, lime or lime-cement mortar is used. Cement-sand mixture used only for laying pipes above the roof.

The ratio of clay and sifted sand is selected experimentally. It depends on the type of clay. Most often, mixtures of 1: 2 or 1: 3 are used. Moreover, the fatter the clay, the less it should be in the solution. First, the clay is soaked, filtered through a sieve, and only then sand is added.

The solution should have the consistency of fairly thick sour cream. The viscosity of the mixture can be determined as follows. A wooden stick or trowel is dipped into the solution and shaken. If a layer thickness of less than 2 mm remains on it, clay is added, if more than 3 mm, sand is added. A solution that is too greasy will lead to cracking of the masonry joint; if there is not enough clay, sand will spill out of the joints.

Secrets of brickwork

It is better to lay out the oven from fireproof fireclay bricks . To save money, you can line only the firebox with it, but use regular silicate for the remaining parts of the stove. However, combining them in one bundle, just like a brick from different manufacturers, is not recommended: with temperature changes, the degree of expansion will be different, so such a stove may “fail”. Fragile hollow bricks are not used for masonry.

Types, sizes and weight of bricks

1. For the installation of furnaces, the following procedures are used: detailed diagrams, which indicate the process of laying each row. The location of fireclay refractory bricks in the furnace in such diagrams is indicated by shading or highlighted in color. It is strongly not recommended to change the order unnecessarily: deviations in the scheme can lead to narrowing of the chimney channels.

Laying fireclay for fireboxes and chimneys and sand-lime bricks

2. Before laying bricks, 2 layers are placed on the base waterproofing: roofing felt or roofing felt impregnated with mastic. To protect the solution from dehydration, the brick is first soaked in water for a couple of minutes.

3. Its first row is laid out dry without mortar. Next, the calculation is carried out with overlapping joints previous row. Each seam must be completely filled with mortar, without voids or cavities.

4. The row is laid from the corners (see photo). After this, between the two corner bricks the entire row is reported.

Row laying

5. Each row is checked by a building level for compliance with the horizontal and vertical.

6. To avoid mistakes, the row is first laid out without mortar. Then serial number Each of the bricks is signed with chalk, they are removed and finishing masonry begins. Not only horizontal, but also all vertical seams are coated with the solution with a layer of 3-5 mm.

Important! When laying chimneys, you should not use halves and quarters of bricks. If they fall out, getting them out of the chimney will be problematic. It is better to use parts of bricks in the very top rows of the structure.

7. The hob and grate are laid with a gap of 5 mm to compensate for thermal expansion.

8. The doors of the firebox and blower are insulated with asbestos and additionally fastened with wire, which is placed in the seams of the masonry. For its fastening in the cast iron frame, special holes must be provided.

Fastening the oven doors

9. The walls of the chimney must be perfectly smooth and even. Lumps of soot will accumulate at the joints and chips of bricks, so only perfectly smooth bricks without defects are used to construct chimneys. Remains of the solution in such places should be immediately wiped off with a rag or cloth.

10. When constructing a pipe, the most difficult part is the section passing through the attic floor. The walls in this place are increased so that their width exceeds 38 cm, while the cross-section of the chimney remains unchanged.

The diagrams below provide order small Swedish stove for 570 bricks with hob. To construct such a furnace you will also need:

Cast iron stove with two burners;

Cast iron doors for the firebox and ventilator;

3 cleaning doors for soot removal;

2 valves;

Metal oven;

corner,

Steel strip for covering over the cooking cavity.

Video: Laying a brick oven with your own hands

It will cost less to install a stone stove in your home than to install a stone stove yourself, since the cost of stone is higher than brick. If you do not want to build a brick stove or have no experience, then you can install an iron stove, for example, a potbelly stove. At the same time, installing a brick oven is not too difficult, as it seems at first glance; the most important thing is to have a certain amount of patience. Preparatory stage construction involves the construction of a foundation.

The foundation for the furnace must be laid separately from the foundation for the room.

This is necessary to prevent deformation of the furnace foundation from the main one as a result of raising heaving soil under the building. Next, a stove is built using red solid bricks.

What tools and materials should you use to build brick ovens?

Figure 1. Order of a brick kiln.

You can prepare the mortar for masonry in a special container. In any case, you should have it on hand building level for even laying, since each row must have a flat surface. Among the main materials for preparing the stove for masonry, the following should be highlighted:

• sand;
• clay;
• red solid brick;
• roofing felt;
• grate;
• pipe;
• tree;
• gravel;
• cement.

Before laying the furnace, you should prepare a carefully designed scheme for constructing a brick furnace, for example, as shown in the figure (Fig. 1). Next, they immediately begin with the preparation of masonry mortar. Concrete should not be used. Typically, clay is mined from a depth of half a meter, then it is cleaned so that it does not contain impurities with stones. The solution should be prepared using clean sand.

Figure 2. Sequence of actions when laying bricks: A – spoon row; B – bonded row.

The clay must be softened before use. To do this, it is placed in water for two or three days to soften it. During the preparation of the solution, the clay is constantly stirred, adding sand to it. Sand and clay can be taken in equal proportions, that is, 1/1.

If the solution is prepared with high quality, then it is homogeneous without various pebbles and lumps. The quality of the solution must firmly ensure an acceptable level of reliability of the furnace and its strength. If you prepare a large volume of solution at once, then if there is no need to use it, it will lose its properties. beneficial properties, therefore the masonry mortar is prepared several times during the masonry process.

For high-quality masonry of the furnace, it is necessary to pre-lay out the bricks, which allows you to check the quality of the first row on separate foundation. All work should be based on reference to the diagram of the developed furnace design. Careful use of the solution allows you to carefully seal each seam.

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How to start building a foundation slab for a brick oven

Figure 3. Types of brickwork.

A carefully designed furnace according to the appropriate finished drawing is laid out on a separately constructed foundation, as noted above. The principle of constructing the foundation slab should be the same as for the main building. The foundation begins to be poured by preparing a pit below the depth from which the soil begins to freeze, which can be about 1 meter.

You can fill the bottom of the pit using wet sand, laying a layer on it broken bricks or stone. The size of this layer should be 15 cm in height, and crushed stone is poured on top of it. To create removable formwork They use specially prepared boards nailed together. The formwork should be made strong, as it must withstand pouring concrete. Quality level concrete pouring will be decisive for the reliability of the entire structure.

After 2 or 3 days, the formwork is removed from the hardened concrete pour, and its surface is covered with tar and roofing felt. All layers of these materials should provide maximum reliable waterproofing of the foundation slab. The remaining space between the foundation and the soil should be filled with sand with coarse grains or a layer of gravel.

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How to make a brick oven in the house with your own hands correctly

Figure 4. Chimney laying.

Tips for laying a brick stove.

The principle of laying a furnace can be based on the following algorithm of actions:

1. Construction of the foundation slab.
2. Furnace device.
3. Laying the furnace in rows in accordance with the order diagram.
4. Grate arrangement.
5. Fitting bricks.
6. Combustion door device.

Among the recommendations for laying a stove in the house there are a number of basic ones. For example, the grate should be mounted in the furnace without its support in internal walls stove, otherwise when heated, the grate expands and deforms the masonry walls. The foundation of the stove must be waterproofed. The base of the foundation must protrude at a distance of at least 10 cm. The oven being installed usually represents a certain space on the front external wall oven equipped with a hole for storing equipment.

When making rows of bricks, be sure to carefully adjust them to each other so that there are no gaps between the bricks (Fig. 2), since they must reliably overlap smoke channel from the back wall of the oven. If you cover the cracks with clay, they will still not be processed to the proper level.

The bricks are shifted from the blower by 3 cm to the side, and the left block is shifted forward by 1.5 cm. The tank door is usually wrapped in two layers of asbestos cord at all contact points. Fasten combustion door three layers of galvanized wire. Avoid the formation of cracks in brickwork Using high quality brick will help.

Bricks must be moistened with water before laying, and they are laid on the foundation without mortar to create a pattern. It will help check the quality of masonry of brick corners and walls future design ovens. All corners and walls are made straight and even, for which a building level is used.