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DIY winter greenhouse: types of heating. Building a greenhouse on your own: How? Of what? What is the price? How to build a greenhouse at home

Polycarbonate greenhouses are widely represented in the retail chain - for every taste and size. But many people prefer to do them themselves. Because a greenhouse made of polycarbonate with your own hands is much stronger and more reliable. At the same time, the costs are less or the same.

How to choose a design

If you decide to build a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands, it is advisable to choose a design that allows you to use the main advantage of this material - its ability to bend. These are two types with curved roofs with arch-shaped supports.

In one design, the arcs extend from the ground itself. If they are curved in the form of a radius, a lot of area is lost at the edges, since it is very inconvenient to work there due to the small height.

Another design solves this problem - with a composite frame welded from several pieces. Straight posts emerge from the ground/from the base, which rise to a height of at least one and a half meters. An arc is welded to them. With this arrangement, the roof is rounded and the walls are straight. You can even work along walls without problems, standing up straight to your full height.

But the rounded greenhouse roof has several disadvantages. The first is that it is more difficult to make ventilation windows in it than in a straight line. The problem can be solved by making transoms in the walls rather than in the roof. The second disadvantage of a rounded roof in a polycarbonate greenhouse is that snow falls off from it worse than from flat, sloping surfaces. If you live in a region with snowy winters, you will either have to make reinforced trusses, or make a pitched roof - with one or two slopes.

There is a third solution - to make a rounded part of the roof from two arches, welded at an angle, which forms a kind of ridge. With this structure, the snow melts well and the ridge can be protected with a wide strip of metal. This will improve snow melting and protect the joint from leaks.

DIY polycarbonate greenhouse: material for the frame

The choice of materials for the frame is not very large. Suitable profiled (rectangular) pipes, a metal corner and wooden beam. Galvanized profiles for drywall are also used.

Wood

The timber is used for small greenhouses, and the design is chosen with a lean-to or gable roof, since bending wood arches is difficult and time consuming. The cross-section of the beam depends on the size of the greenhouse and snow/wind loads in the region. The most popular size is 50*50 mm. Such supports are installed in the Middle Zone. For greater reliability corner posts can be made from 100*100 mm timber.

Moreover, to save money, you can not buy timber, but make it composite - from boards. Take two boards 50 mm wide and 25 mm thick, three boards 15 mm thick. Fold, knock down on both sides with nails. The resulting racks are stronger, better bear loads, and are less subject to torsion, since the wood fibers are directed in different directions.

Another option - larger size

If you are building a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands on a wooden frame, all boards/timbers must be treated/impregnated with antiseptics, and those intended for the street. The ends that are buried in the ground should be treated with compounds for direct contact with the ground. Without such treatment, the wood, firstly, will quickly deteriorate, and secondly, it can become a source of plant diseases.

When connecting the posts to the trim (bottom strip), use reinforced steel mounting angles for greater rigidity and reliability. They are in construction stores. To increase the load-bearing capacity of the roof, additional lintels are installed.

Profiled pipes and steel angle

Most polycarbonate greenhouse frames are made from profiled pipe. If you have the skills to work with it, it’s not difficult to do everything yourself - welding a square or rectangle is easier than round pipes. Another plus is that with help it’s easy to make arcs yourself.

The cross-section again depends on the size and natural conditions. Most often they are made from a rectangular pipe 20*40 mm. But options are also possible. Another important parameter for this material is wall thickness. It is desirable that the metal be 2-3 mm. This frame can withstand significant loads.

A steel corner is also a good option, but bending it is a difficult task, so greenhouses are assembled in the form of a house - with gables or pitched roofs. The dimensions of the shelves are 20-30 mm, the metal thickness is from 2 mm.

Galvanized profiles

A do-it-yourself polycarbonate greenhouse with a frame made of profiles is the most unreliable option. It is good in areas with little snow in winters, and even without strong winds. The advantage of this option is that welding is not required. And the minus is not the greatest load-bearing capacity.

One of the frames. The jibs and stops are not superfluous.

The technology used is standard - as for constructing walls and partitions from plasterboard. The only difference is that the frame is sheathed on one side and polycarbonate is attached. It is advisable to make double racks - by merging two supporting profiles, turning them “back to back” and twisting them with self-tapping screws. To make the frame more rigid, make bevels, connecting adjacent racks with inclined jumpers. It is advisable to make the roof pitched rather than round, and strengthen the trusses.

Foundation

If you are wondering whether a foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse is needed or not, there is only one answer - it is. And reliable. They fly very well. Therefore, the foundation must “anchor” the building well.

Belt type

This foundation is for buildings that are planned for more than one year. The most expensive, but also the most thorough option. If you plan to use the greenhouse all year round, the foundation is made deep - to a depth just below freezing of the soil. For seasonal use, concrete-brick or simply timber is suitable.

Concrete-brick is one of the most common

Concrete-brick (concrete-beam)

Most often they make a concrete-brick version. It is optimal in terms of cost, complexity and duration. The work is carried out as follows:

• A trench is dug according to the size of the greenhouse. Its width is about 20 cm, the depth depends on the type of soil.
  
• Thick oilcloth or roofing felt is spread on the prepared bottom. This is necessary so that moisture from the solution is not absorbed into the soil. It is also advisable to cover the sides, but there the formwork panels partially solve this problem. Without this layer, concrete will not gain strength and will collapse.
• The solution is poured into the resulting ditch. The proportions are as follows: for 1 part of cement (M 400) take 3 parts of sand and 5 parts of filler. Filler - preferably crushed stone of small and medium fraction. You should not use expanded clay - it absorbs moisture and can cause increased humidity.
• The surface is leveled “under level”. You can smooth it out with a wooden block.

  

• Mortgages - pins or pieces of reinforcement with a diameter of at least 12 mm - are installed in the foundation, in the corners and at a distance of 1 meter. Studs are installed if it is necessary to attach timber to them, and reinforcement if brick is to be laid. They stick out at least 15 cm above the foundation level.
• The poured foundation is covered with film and left for at least a week (at temperatures below 17°C, two weeks should pass). If the weather is hot, water it a couple of times a day. To preserve moisture in this case, it is better to cover it under the film with a coarse cloth (burlap).
• If bottom trim there will be a beam on top concrete base waterproofing is rolled out. You can use two layers of roofing material, but now it quickly deteriorates, so it’s better to take “Gidroizol” or something similar. You can coat concrete bitumen mastic a couple of times. The result will be more reliable.
• A row of strapping is laid:
  
• Next comes the assembly of the frame.

There are options for this type of foundation. You can install small ones in a prepared trench and fill the space between them with solution. They must be installed so that their edge is below ground level. A layer of concrete is poured on top and leveled. Mortgages are secured in the seams.

Empty bottles can be used as building material. They are laid in rows and filled with concrete. It turns out to be very economical and warm foundation. Its load-bearing capacity is quite enough for a more serious construction.

Beam foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse

This option is suitable as a temporary solution - it can last two to three years. It depends on the humidity in the area, the quality of the wood and the processing. The timber is used large section- 100*100 or more (can be made composite, from several boards). It is treated with compounds for wood in contact with the ground. The order of work is as follows:

This option is only suitable for dry, low-lying areas groundwater. In this case, one can hope that the foundation will survive for at least several years.

Pile-grill

Another type of foundation that will not protect against frost. But it is reliable and will last a long time. Complete, and we will provide a short list of works.

Next, you can attach the strapping, or you can add a couple of rows of bricks and only after that install the frame. After this, we can say that the polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands is almost ready. All that remains is to fix the polycarbonate.

Which polycarbonate to choose

How long a polycarbonate greenhouse, purchased or built with your own hands, will last, how well it will “work” depends on the parameters and quality of the polycarbonate. One must take his choice responsibly - the sum is considerable.

Types of polycarbonate

There are three types of this material:

What type of polycarbonate is best to use for building greenhouses? Depends on the operating mode of the greenhouse. If it is heated, you will need a cell phone. If this is an option exclusively for warm time year, corrugated (or monolithic) is more suitable. Monolithic is also not bad, but corrugated has more rigidity. For greenhouses that are planned to be used from early spring or throughout the winter, put cellular polycarbonate. Due to its structure, it has superior thermal insulation characteristics - it retains heat better, although it transmits light worse (86% versus 95%).

Choosing cellular polycarbonate

It is not difficult to choose corrugated or monolithic - we are guided by the declared characteristics. It is only important that there is protection from ultraviolet radiation. There are no other pitfalls. But with a cell phone there are many nuances. You need to pay attention to the following:

The easiest way to check the quality of cellular polycarbonate is to try to squeeze it between your fingers. If it does not press through, even if you make a significant effort, you can take it. If it squeezes easily, look for another one.

Installation features

According to the technology, polycarbonate is mounted using starting and connecting profiles. First, profiles are installed on the frame, a sheet of cellular polycarbonate is inserted into them, which is fixed to self-tapping screws with special press washers, which simultaneously protect the mounting location from leaks. Profiles, in addition to holding the sheets in place, also protect the cuts from dust and dirt getting into the bottom. The system looks neat and works well, but all the components cost a lot of money.

Aesthetics for a greenhouse is not the most necessary property, therefore, if you need to save money, they prefer to mount it in a simple way, without profiles and press washers. Here's how to do it:

This is what directly concerns the fastening of cellular polycarbonate. There is one more point that became clear during the operation of polycarbonate greenhouses. Polycarbonate should not be placed close to the ground. It is desirable that it starts at least half a meter from the surface. Why? Because firstly, it still gets dirty and almost no light passes through it, so it does not affect the overall illumination. Secondly, it begins to deteriorate—blacken and flake. It is not clear what causes this reaction, but it is common. So, when developing a model of a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands, provide half-meter walls made of another material - brick, building blocks. Doesn't matter.

Many owners of private houses dream of having a greenhouse on their property. This agricultural structure will help owners provide their family with herbs and some types of vegetables already in late spring or early summer. Well, some greenhouse designs, which include heating and lighting systems, are used for growing crops all year round.

A greenhouse with your own hands can be built from wood and brick in combination with metal elements, or have a frame structure, for example, made of lightweight metal-plastic pipes.

When implementing an idea, the first thing to determine is the location where the greenhouse will be installed. The size of the future structure directly depends on its area.

Next, you need to decide when this structure will be used - only in the spring or throughout the year. If you choose the “winter” option, then you need to know that construction will cost much more, since it will require more materials, and will also require lighting, heating, plumbing and ventilation.

Then, you need to select the material of manufacture and type of greenhouse construction. To focus on one of them, several of the most commonly used options will be considered.

Types of greenhouses

The design of greenhouses, in principle, is not very complicated, so any owner of the site can build it independently. To do this, you just need to prepare the material and tools. Greenhouses can be divided into types, based on various criteria - the material of manufacture, the shape of the structure, whether it will be stationary or temporary.

Greenhouse covering material

Several different types of materials are used to cover greenhouses. They should be transparent and may have shades favorable for plant growth. For example, which has become especially popular recently, sometimes not only a colorless transparent one is chosen, but also a yellowish or green tint.

The KINPLAST company offers high-quality cellular polycarbonate for greenhouses. The material has excellent technical and performance characteristics. KINPLAST is a leading manufacturer of polycarbonate in the domestic market. The line of cellular polycarbonate includes brands such as WOGGEL - a material created in collaboration with foreign colleagues; SKYGLASS – universal polycarbonate with excellent characteristics at an affordable price; as well as specially developed grades of polycarbonate for use in agriculture AgroTITAN.

Glass is often used to cover the walls and roof of a greenhouse. Due to its structural structure and transparency, it is excellent for this room, but to install glazing it is necessary to create a particularly reliable robust construction frame, since this material has considerable weight. Capital winter greenhouses are sometimes built from metal-plastic frames and double-glazed windows, but such a structure will be extremely expensive.

Another option that is most often used for covering greenhouses is polyethylene film. It can be used for tensioning on a frame built from any material, since it has a very small mass. Recently, a special reinforced film has appeared on sale, which is more durable and easier to attach to the frame sheathing.

To decide on the choice of material, you need to carefully study its performance characteristics, which are presented in this table:

Material Evaluation Options	Cellular polycarbonate	Glass	Film
Miniature
Mounting and weight	It is light in weight and can be used in certain structures without additional frame elements, as well as without a foundation.	Glass has the heaviest weight compared to other covering materials, and when choosing it, you will need to consider a reliable frame installed on the foundation.	Polyethylene has a very small mass, but requires special fastening. If the material is not reinforced, then it is fixed to the frame through special slats and additionally secured with thin stretched ropes.
Durability	Polycarbonate as a greenhouse covering can last 18–25 years, depending on its quality. This material is flexible and has sufficient rigidity to be an element of a self-supporting structure. Fixed to the frame, it does not deform and does not distort.	Glass can last long time, as it is not affected by ultraviolet rays and moisture. On the other hand, glass is a fragile and inflexible material, therefore it does not tolerate mechanical stress, heavy loads and deformation of the frame structure.	Polyethylene has the shortest service life compared to other coating materials, as it is exposed to ultraviolet radiation, from which it gradually deteriorates. In addition, it cannot be called resistant to temperature changes.
Noise insulation	Cellular polycarbonate dampens the noise of wind and rain well, thanks to its structure.	If the installation of the material is done poorly, then during strong winds gusts of air can penetrate inside and the glass can make a ringing noise.	The film will not protect the greenhouse from noise, and if the wind is very strong, the material will rustle a lot in the wind.
Appearance	Polycarbonate gives the building an aesthetic appearance and can make an ordinary greenhouse a real decoration of the territory.	Properly installed glass will give the greenhouse a neat appearance.	The film looks neat and remains transparent only for the first season of its use, and even then not always. Then, under the influence of the sun, temperature changes and wind, it becomes cloudy and loses its aesthetic appearance and light transmittance.
Safety	Polycarbonate has high strength, exceeding that of glass by approximately 200 times, and is also approximately 15 times lighter. When falling, the material does not break and cannot injure people inside or near the greenhouse with fragments.	Poorly installed glass is extremely dangerous for people working inside. In addition, if fragments fall into the soil of the greenhouse, you can be seriously injured during subsequent cultivation of the soil. Therefore, if you plan to install glass, then it is recommended to entrust its installation to professional craftsmen.	Completely safe for both people and greenhouse soil.
Care	This material is easy to care for - just wash it with water, install strong pressure in the hose. However, it should be noted that dust on the surface of polycarbonate is almost invisible, so the greenhouse does not have to be washed often enough.	Traces of rain drops remain on the glass, and dust is also retained well. To get rid of dirt on the surface, you need to make a lot of physical effort. It is especially uncomfortable and dangerous to carry out cleaning activities on the greenhouse roof.	Plastic film is not washed, because after wet cleaning, stains remain on it and it becomes cloudy, which makes it difficult for light to fully penetrate inside. The only way out in case of severe contamination is complete replacement films.
Created microclimate	Polycarbonate is able to reliably thermally insulate a greenhouse and protect plants from the wind. Vapors settling on internal surfaces, flow down them into the soil. In addition, the material not only transmits light perfectly, but also makes it softer and more diffused. The heat generated by the soil and plants is reliably stored indoors, which creates the greenhouse effect.	Glass is not capable of creating high thermal insulation, unless it is metal-plastic structures with double-glazed windows. The material transmits light perfectly, but does not scatter it, and sometimes even focuses it on a specific bed, which is extremely harmful for plant leaves.	Dense new polyethylene film is capable of creating high thermal insulation, but over the course of a season, under the influence of temperatures, sun and wind, it becomes thinner and loses its original qualities. Therefore, it is recommended to change the film coating every year.

Having weighed all the “pros” and “cons” of materials, as well as taking into account the design of the planned structure, it will be possible to make a choice of the type of coating.

Greenhouse structures

Greenhouses have different designs - it can be a spacious room or just a large box covered with a glazed frame. Structures are also used that extend half their height into the ground. It will be possible to choose one of the varieties only after the owner understands the features of each.

• The most simple design greenhouse, which can be built from scrap materials, consists of an ordinary box, for example, 2000x1500 mm in size, assembled from boards and installed on favorable area local area. For such a greenhouse, old ones are often used as a roof.

Such greenhouses are usually used for growing seedlings or herbs from early spring to late autumn.

• Another option for a simple and affordable greenhouse to build is a simple frame construction, made of metal-plastic or polypropylene pipes, fittings, and sometimes even thick steel wire, covered with plastic film.

If you choose for a greenhouse plastic pipes, then even a woman’s hands can make a frame from them, since this material bends quite easily and holds its shape well.

This type of greenhouse can be used throughout the entire spring-summer season, from spring to late autumn. The convenience of the design is that by planting seeds, for example, tomatoes, under the film, after germination and strengthening, the seedlings do not need to be replanted. It is simply thinned out, and when a stable and comfortable temperature for plants is established outside, the film is removed from the structure, opening the free flow of air and sunlight. In very hot weather, a special mesh can be quickly thrown over the created frame, creating partial shade, but allowing light to penetrate to the plants as needed.

• A more complex structure, which is assembled from wooden beams and covered with film, can also be used throughout the spring-summer season. The size of such a greenhouse can be different - they vary from how many seedlings are planned to be planted, and taking into account the convenience of the gardener’s work.

In this design, it is necessary to provide a hinged lifting of the roof to provide access to the plants from sunlight and air. This is also a seasonal version of the structure, and it is advisable to use it only for growing seedlings, since in stable summer temperatures It is recommended to grow vegetables and herbs in open ground.

Video: homemade greenhouse on a wooden frame with film coating

• If you need to grow a small amount of greenery or seedlings, you can make a greenhouse from metal barrel, in which slots are made in the form of windows. This design uses a transparent polyethylene film as a roof - it can be removed at any time, opening access to air, and, if necessary, closed so that the coolness of the night in the off-season does not cause harm to the plants.

• A more complex greenhouse design, in which you can already install moderate heating and start using it yourself in early spring. It consists of a wooden or metal-plastic frame. This is already a full-fledged room, and in it not only the plants, but also the gardener will be protected from the wind and low temperatures. Such a greenhouse can be covered with a very dense polyethylene film or cellular polycarbonate. When creating a structure from pipes, you need to remember that it will turn out to be quite light, and a strong wind can move it from its place, damaging the seedlings, so to tie it to the place, you need to drive metal corners or reinforcement into the ground.

Interesting solution— the frame of the greenhouse is welded from very inexpensive polypropylene pipes and components for them.

• The permanent structure of the greenhouse, equipped with heating and irrigation, can be used throughout the year. For such a greenhouse to work effectively, it is usually made of metal-plastic or aluminum structures and double-glazed windows, which are installed on the foundation.

This greenhouse is already a real capital building

To more easily provide heating and water delivery to the greenhouse premises, quite often such structures are attached to the southern wall of the house. In this case, the building will serve as a kind of winter garden, which at any time of the year will delight the owners not only with fresh vegetables and herbs, but also with the color of ornamental plants.

Sometimes greenhouses are attached to the south side of the house, and they become real “winter gardens”

• Another option for a winter greenhouse, the design of which helps to save on heating costs, is a room that extends half its height into the ground. This structure, due to its high energy-saving qualities, is often called a “thermos greenhouse”. To achieve the desired effect, a pit is dug for this greenhouse, going 1600÷2000 mm deep into the ground. Additionally, walls 500÷700 mm high are erected above the ground surface, and then the entire structure is covered with a frame made of timber or a metal corner.

The work of constructing a building is quite labor-intensive and lengthy, but during its operation it will be possible to save enough on its heating system. One of important points The construction of a thermos greenhouse involves the arrangement of not only a heating system, but also effective ventilation.

Greenhouse roof shape

The next criterion by which greenhouses are divided is the shape of the roof. Insolation largely depends on this, that is quality lighting premises, and therefore the creation optimal conditions for growing plants.

• Gable roof

Greenhouses with a gable roof can most often be found on suburban areas, since it is precisely this shape that contributes to the effective lighting of the room from above. Provided the greenhouse is located correctly, the sun will “work” all day long from sunrise to sunset, promoting plant growth.

“Classic” option - gable roof

Therefore, this design is often used to create winter versions of greenhouses, since at this time of year plants experience a lack of sunlight.

• Arched design

Arched structures are made of metal-plastic pipes or metal elements. The first ones are usually covered with polyethylene film, while the second option most often has a polycarbonate coating. Metal constructions can be purchased ready-made, and all that remains is to assemble them on the site. Well, a frame made of metal-plastic pipes is quite easy to make yourself.

The convenience of such a greenhouse lies not only in its maximum illumination, but also in the fact that snow and water do not accumulate on the arched roof, which means that the coating will not be subject to deformation due to heavy load. Again, you will not need to climb to a height to remove snow from its surface.

• Shed roof

One of the common options for a “serious” greenhouse is a strip foundation

• Under it, according to the markings, a pit-trench is dug, having a depth and width of 300 mm.
• Since the walls of the greenhouse are not as heavy as those of residential buildings, a foundation depth of 300 mm is sufficient to withstand relatively light loads.
• Above the ground, the base can be raised to a height of 200 to 500 mm, depending on whether the foundation will serve as walls or whether they will be made of brick.
• A sand cushion 50÷70 mm thick is placed and compacted into the finished trench, and crushed stone is poured on top of it with a layer of the same thickness and distributed.
• A formwork made of boards and timber is fixed along the trench, into which roofing material is laid, which will become an excellent waterproofing for the foundation.
• The next step is to fill the formwork with concrete, spread it and then pierce it bayonet shovel and gently tap the formwork to remove air from the solution.
• If the frame will be made of a metal corner or it will be needed to secure wooden blocks, then sometimes support posts or sections of the corner can be immediately embedded in the foundation.

Basis for greenhouse-thermos

For a thermos greenhouse, it is necessary to dig a sufficiently deep pit, and if you plan to build an agricultural structure large area, you will have to use specialized equipment, since such work manually will take a lot of time.

• After marking the site, it is recommended to remove it from it upper layer fertile soil. After removal, the soil is piled up, because it is perfect for laying the finished greenhouse in the beds.
• When digging a pit, among the layers you may come across clay, which also should not be mixed with the rest of the soil, as it can be useful for waterproofing walls or making adobe blocks for insulating a greenhouse.
• The pit is deepened enough so that the gardener working in the greenhouse feels free, and there is quite a lot of free space above it. To ensure that the desired temperature is maintained in the greenhouse and the soil does not freeze, it is recommended to deepen the pit by approximately 2000 mm.

If the pit is not deep enough, you will have to raise side walls, since it will be ideal when the total height of the pit matches the height of the gardener.

• The width of the greenhouse is usually from two to five meters. If the room is made wider, it will quickly cool down, and lighting and heating will require a large amount of electricity. In addition, the design of a transparent dome would be too complex.
• When digging a pit, a ramp is installed on one side of it, where, along with the construction of the walls, a staircase of several steps and an entrance door to the greenhouse will be installed.
• To begin work on upgrading the walls, a base is made for them. To do this, a trench is dug around the perimeter inside the pit. After this, formwork is installed in it and the strip foundation is poured in the same way as in the case already considered.
• After the foundation is ready, you can proceed to lining the walls with bricks or foam blocks. When making masonry in the opposite direction front door One or two ventilation pipes are immediately installed on the wall, at a height of 400÷500 mm from the floor.

The ventilation pipe is brought outside and raised above the ground by 1000÷1500 mm.

• Separately, it is necessary to say about the laying, since in this case it is produced in a special way.

— To save on insulation, instead of bricks or foam blocks, which are not cheap, you can use clay extracted from a pit, which is mixed with chopped straw and adobe bricks are formed from this mixture.

— If you don’t want to waste time, and you have the opportunity to purchase foam blocks, which are called permanent formwork, then you can immediately get “bricks with insulation.” The blocks are hollow, and they are filled as they are installed on top of each other concrete mortar. Having chosen the latter option, you will need to separate the foam wall from the ground surface of the pit with roofing felt or plastic film.

After the solution in the blocks has hardened, a film or roofing material is hooked onto it, and the remaining material between waterproofing material and the soil wall of the pit, the gap is filled with clay or a mixture of clay and soil, and while filling, it is periodically compacted.

— If brick is chosen for wall decoration, then it is insulated from the outside using polystyrene foam, which is mounted between the brick and soil wall. Thermal insulation material also needs to be protected with roofing felt. The resulting gap, just as in the first case, is filled with soil.

• If the walls rise above the ground by 400÷600 mm, then they also need to be insulated and waterproofed. If desired, the wall protruding above the ground can be finished with a decorative coating - this can be clinker tiles or plastic lining for outdoor use.
• If the walls are not high, then after waterproofing they can be sprinkled with a layer of expanded clay, which is covered on top with corrugated sheeting, which is fixed to the top of the wall. The corrugated sheeting will ensure the drainage of water that will drain from the greenhouse cover and keep the walls dry.

Wooden foundation

Another material for the foundation can be wood, or rather, a wooden beam with a cross-sectional size of 100×150 or 150×150 mm. This foundation is suitable for a greenhouse that is used seasonally - from spring to autumn.

In order for such a foundation to serve for a long time, the wood must be treated with antiseptic and water-repellent compounds and installed on a sandy, well-compacted cushion. Another option is to raise it above the ground using concrete slabs.

Construction of a thermos greenhouse

The installation of all greenhouses takes place differently, depending on the type of structure and the period of use of the structure, since “winter” options require a more careful approach and additional functions. It’s probably worth considering this, the most difficult option.

• After the walls are ready, you can proceed to installing the frame under the greenhouse cover.
• The frame is mounted from metal profile or wooden beam.

• The first step is to attach a frame made of 100×150 mm timber to the walls of the greenhouse. Fixation is carried out using anchors or using embedded embedded elements.
• The rafter system must be assembled from timber of the same cross-section as the harness. For installation rafter legs markings are carried out on the harness, since rafter pairs must be distributed at equal distances from each other.
• The rafters are secured to the frame metal corners, and in the upper part they are connected to each other using metal plates or using a ridge board.
• Fixed to the rafters wooden blocks lathing, but with a fairly large step. There should be no more than two or three of them on each slope so that they do not overlap sunlight.
• Polycarbonate sheets are laid on the sheathing, which are secured to it using special fasteners with bushings and rubber gaskets to prevent the possibility of leakage.

• Having completed the fastening of the covering material to the slopes, it is installed in the same way on the gable parts of the roof.
• After this, it is installed door frame and the door itself. It is desirable that the door leaf is also equipped with a transparent insert.

Creating optimal conditions for plants in the greenhouse

Greenhouse thermal insulation

In a greenhouse with a gable roof, one of its slopes must face the south side. It is recommended to finish the second side inside the greenhouse. Such a system will help not only retain heat, but even increase illumination inside the structure, since the sun, hitting the insulation foil, will be reflected into the room.

The insulation is fixed to the rafters with self-tapping screws, then it is folded onto the wall and glued to its surface using liquid nails. All the walls of the greenhouse are insulated in the same way, only the transparent southern slope is left uninsulated, and the western end transparent side of the structure can be left.

It should be noted that foil foamed polyethylene is an excellent vapor barrier membrane, and is able not only to enhance the lighting of the greenhouse, but also to preserve water vapor inside it and carbon dioxide, which are the main nutrient medium for photosynthesis, which determines the growth and development of plants.

In order to prevent heat from escaping from the greenhouse, it is necessary to create a reliable seal in the greenhouse space. To do this on ventilation holes You should definitely install doors or valves on which you can set the required gap as necessary or close them completely.

Greenhouse heating system

2. The infiltration coefficient depends on the difference between the external and internal temperatures in the greenhouse. You can use the following table:

3. Temperature inside the greenhouse (indicated in the formula t1), is usually taken equal to:

• For growing seedlings - + 25 ° C;
• For normal development vegetable beds— + 18 °С.

If any exotic plants are grown, then the corresponding values ​​are adopted.

4. External temperature ( t2) are accepted based on the results of meteorological observations in a particular region - the minimum during the coldest week during the planned season of use of the greenhouse.

5. Thermal conductivity indicators ( wtp), that is, the amount of thermal energy that is transferred outward by a covering area of ​​1 m² with a temperature difference of 1 ° C, depends on the type of material and its thickness. The table below shows the values ​​for the most commonly used materials for covering stationary greenhouses:

Material	Thermal conductivity (W/m²×°C)
Glass:
- thickness 4 mm;	5.82
- thickness 6 mm;	5.77
- thickness 8 mm;	5.71
Monolithic polycarbonate sheet:
- thickness 4 mm;	5.33
- thickness 6 mm;	5.09
- thickness 8 mm;	4.84
Polycarbonate sheet honeycomb:
- thickness 4 mm;	3.6
- thickness 6 mm;	3.5
- thickness 8 mm;	3.3
- thickness 10 mm;	3.0
- thickness 16 mm;	2.4

Having all the necessary data, it will not be difficult to calculate the required electrical heating power of the greenhouse. It’s even easier to use the online calculator below.

Nowadays, he dreams of building a greenhouse on his plot. A greenhouse is a very profitable building for a summer resident, because seedlings can be planted much earlier and, accordingly, the harvest will ripen faster than in the garden. In a greenhouse, the humidity and microclimate favor the rapid growth of plants and vegetables. You can also grow seedlings in a greenhouse, for example for sale, you will agree that this is a good help for family budget. And if you build a bigger greenhouse, that’s all. family business You can organize and grow some vegetables for sale.

Mostly, summer residents build greenhouses of small sizes and from materials such as plastic film or glass. This type of material is of course good on the one hand. For example, the structure is made of wood and polyethylene film, it is lightweight and does not allow moisture to pass through and cold air from the street side of the greenhouse. But the trouble is that this film under the influence of direct sunlight, precipitation and wind, it becomes unusable after one season of operation.

Summer residents also build glazed greenhouses, which also have their drawbacks. Firstly glass structure It still has a decent weight, which can often affect a wooden building; of course, such a greenhouse will last longer. And another problem is that glass tends to chip and crumble, for example from hail or strong gusty winds.

Fortunately for all summer residents, nowadays there is a universal material for greenhouses that has gained considerable popularity and respect, and this material is called polycarbonate. Lightweight and durable, transmits sunlight very well. Available in stores big choice similar greenhouses are made of polycarbonate, but the price for them, of course, is not small and not everyone can afford it.

But what can a common person do if he wants a greenhouse made of this material? Of course, he must use ingenuity and imagination. So the author decided to build a polycarbonate greenhouse with his own hands. He bought this material in sheet form, which is much cheaper than buying it already ready-made greenhouse. And the author decided to build a permanent greenhouse so that it would last until the end of his days and so that his grandchildren could also use it.

The author is building a greenhouse with a recess into the ground, which will provide increased temperature comfort to the vegetables and plants planted there. Makes a solid structure from timber and boards. So, what did the author need to build this greenhouse?

Materials: polycarbonate, brick, cement, sand, timber, board, nails, screws, hinges.
Tools: hacksaw, hammer, pliers, axe, shovel, trowel, mallet, mortar trough.

Then he pours the foundation and lays out the brick plinth

In the future, he builds a wooden frame for the future greenhouse from timber and boards.

Then the glazing of the greenhouse begins from the roof.

And then, step by step, he continues to line the greenhouse with polycarbonate.

Then he hangs the door and essentially the entire greenhouse is ready.

Inside I made these beds for seedlings out of brick, they will definitely last a century.

Many summer residents would like to grow fresh vegetables all year round. It is possible to come to country house even in winter. The building is heated, with all communications. For vegetables, if you want to tackle their winter and spring growing, you will also need a warm home. A year-round heated greenhouse can be equipped with your own hands.

This is the most important thing to start with – choose the right place. By 30%, the location will determine the efficiency of the greenhouse.

Table. Options for choosing a location for a greenhouse

Parameter	Description
Daylight	Of course, in a stationary year-round greenhouse you will have to provide additional artificial lighting, but why not use nature’s capabilities 100%? Plants should be provided with the maximum amount of daylight. By placing the greenhouse structure in the direction from west to east in open place, you will get maximum sun for your plants.
Wind	Cold winds can not only penetrate into the structure through any even small cracks, but also, acting from the outside, reduce its temperature by 2-5 degrees. For young seedlings, such a difference can be disastrous. Therefore, when installing a greenhouse, take care of its additional protection from the wind.
Water	Ideally, a year-round greenhouse has an automatic watering system. But if there is none, hydraulic communications should be located close for convenient and prompt water intake and irrigation. Water temperature, especially in winter time, also matters. Watering seedlings with cold water is unacceptable.
Approaches	Few people pay attention to this parameter. However, the approach to the greenhouse should be wide and comfortable. This will not only facilitate its construction, but also make its operation comfortable and efficient.

Selection of materials

What to build from? There are many options. You need to choose a material so that the structure will last a long time, be durable, airtight, and economical. In this regard, the old film and glass classic buildings, equipped with frame structures using wood, are finally a thing of the past.

Why are film, glass and wood not suitable?

Greenhouse made of wood and glass - photo

1. Even a heavy-duty film can tear and heat will leak.
2. Over time, cracks will inevitably form in the frames and between them, through which heat will also escape.
3. Glass breaks and in one layer has low heat transfer.

What materials to choose for a year-round greenhouse?

• The frame structure can be used when installing metal-plastic frames, provided they are double-layered glazed.
• The walls of the greenhouse can be made of polycarbonate on a metal base.
• For a year-round greenhouse, a brick building is suitable.

Reliability, long term operation, protection of growing crops - these are the main parameters by which greenhouse building materials are selected.

Assembling a greenhouse from cellular polycarbonate

Let's consider polycarbonate construction, features of its assembly and the necessary tools and additional materials.

Why is polycarbonate good?

This modern material has many positive performance qualities.

• It has excellent thermal insulation properties.
• It has a surprisingly flexible structure - it bends easily without breaking, which allows the installation of even arched structures.
• This new material is 16 times lighter than the thinnest glass.

In polycarbonate buildings, the frame is played by profile pipes. In addition to them you will need:

• welding machine;
• polycarbonate sheets;
• bolts and sealant.

Assembly can be completed in a few hours, according to the instructions that come with the finished greenhouse.

Advice! Not in all ready-made designs transoms are provided, but it is better to provide them; the possibility of ventilation will protect the plants from overheating.

The frame is assembled with bolts. The sheets are inserted into the frame. Don't forget to slope the roof (an angle of 35 degrees is enough) to protect against snow accumulation. Places of strips with open honeycombs on polycarbonate are treated with sealant to minimize heat loss.

Features of a metal-plastic greenhouse

Do-it-yourself metal-plastic structures are not the easiest thing to do. It will be the most durable from specialists, so it is better to make the frame of the greenhouse to order in construction company, which specializes in the manufacture of such products. Plus, the frame will need double glazing, which is also best left to specialists.

As a result, the total cost of such a year-round greenhouse will not be cheap. But this is the most realistic opportunity to grow herbs and vegetables all year round.

Advice! When installing a metal-plastic glazed greenhouse, it is recommended to make one wall (northern) not from glass and insulate it.

The roof of such a greenhouse tilts 30 degrees. It is preferable to choose a single-pitch configuration.

Features of a brick greenhouse

A brick greenhouse, or capital greenhouse as it is also called, is a real “home” for plants, where life is possible all year round. This is not even a greenhouse anymore, but a real greenhouse in which you can grow not only vegetables, but also various exotic plants. Until now, despite the new modern materials, such as metal-plastic and cellular polycarbonate, the brick version of a permanent greenhouse is considered the most reliable, proven, optimal, and effective.

How to build a greenhouse out of brick

You can do the construction yourself if you have at least minimal skills brickwork and others construction work. But even without labor costs, a greenhouse will require substantial financial investment.

You will need:

• brick;
• mineral wool;
• cement, sand;
• roofing material;
• boards, timber for rafters;
• windows, doors, gutters.

The peculiarities of the construction are that, unlike all other types of greenhouses, a brick one is “ two-room apartment"for green pets. The first room is the vestibule. Usually it occupies an area of ​​2x2 m or 2x2.5 m. Garden supplies, fertilizers, soil and other necessary things are stored in the vestibule, and a heating system (boiler, stove) is installed.

The main greenhouse room can be any size that you are able to master.

The partition between two rooms is made permanent. A door is installed in it. The second door from the vestibule leads outside. In the greenhouse, not only windows are made, but also transoms.

Another feature is that for a permanent greenhouse you will have to pour a foundation, preferably a strip foundation.

Table. The main stages of building a brick greenhouse

Heating system

You can heat the greenhouse different ways. From the simplest and most ancient - stove, to the new and modern infrared equipment and heat guns. Each system has its own disadvantages and advantages.

Table. Characteristics of greenhouse heating systems

Heating type	Characteristics
	Used in permanent buildings. The simplest and least expensive method. Does not require complex structures. The stove is installed in the vestibule. The chimney is along the perimeter of the greenhouse room. For arrangement stove heating ventilation is required. Disadvantages include uneven heat supply, the need for constant monitoring, strong heating of the stove surface, and a fire hazard. The walls of a gas-generating solid fuel stove do not heat up.
	Can be installed in a greenhouse made of any material. Considered the safest. You will need a tank with a boiler, a pump, pipes, water, and electricity. The water is heated by electricity, distributed throughout the system using a pump, cools down and returns to the boiler. This method provides not only an optimal, uniform thermal regime, but also the necessary humidity. But only specialists can install such a system. Operation will also require serious material costs.
	Alternative to water. Will be needed gas heaters and burners, as well as pipes, evenly distributed throughout the greenhouse. Gas is burned and heat is distributed into the room. There are several disadvantages, the main one being the need for constant monitoring to avoid gas leaks. Additional ventilation will also be required. This option is more economical than water, heating is carried out evenly, the room heats up faster.
	The most popular and sought after type. Can be used in all greenhouses. There are many devices, including: convector batteries, cables, guns, heating mats. Most systems are equipped with sensors and it is possible to adjust modes.
	You should not even try to install the system yourself - it is installed only by professionals at the time of assembling the greenhouse structure. The heating is excellent, uniform and fast. Condensation does not accumulate (which happens in winter when using all other systems). But there is a possibility of drying out the air, so it is recommended to install humidifiers in parallel.

What vegetables are grown in a greenhouse all year round?

In a heated greenhouse you can grow absolutely any vegetables, herbs, berries, flowers and even exotic plants. But if there is only one greenhouse on the site, and you give preference to vegetables, you will have to choose up to three vegetable crops and the same number of green ones.

Vegetables

Traditional vegetables for year-round cultivation usually include:

• cucumbers;
• tomatoes;
• pepper;
• Chinese cabbage;
• radish;
• salads.

Greenery

Spicy green crops are grown:

• dill;
• parsley;
• cilantro;
• basil;
• green onions.

Pepper - can be sown and grown along with any crops.

Tomatoes – grow well with onions and radishes.

Cucumbers - prefer radishes, lettuce and all green crops.

Greens – can grow with all crops.

Advice! It is not advisable to combine cucumbers with tomatoes and cabbage with parsley in neighboring crops.

Planting seedlings in a greenhouse

The time for planting seedlings that grew in rooms is permanent place growth in a capital heated greenhouse depends on the sowing period you choose. There are certain rules for successful planting of seedlings.

1. The seedlings are ready for planting when they have at least 7-8 true leaves (pepper has at least 12). The bushes are strong, stable, not elongated; flower buds may begin to form in peppers and tomatoes. Leaf color is intense green.

   

2. Before planting, seedlings need to be hardened two weeks in advance - taken outside for several hours, gradually increasing the time.
3. The greenhouse soil is prepared in advance - filled with humus, a 1 m² bucket (not manure!) and minerals(potassium and phosphorus - 40 g each, nitrogen - 30 g/m²). The soil is dug up, loosened, and broken into holes.

   

   

   

4. The holes are watered with two liters of water each. The seedlings are also well watered two hours before planting.

   

5. The seedling is carefully removed from the seedling container using a planting scoop, along with the root soil. If a root that is too long sticks out from the soil clod, you can pinch it off by a third.
6. The seedling is lowered into the hole, held with one hand, and the space between the walls and the lump is filled with the other.
7. The soil is compacted around the stem and watered again. For plants that will be tied up (tomatoes, cucumbers, some varieties of peppers), it is immediately recommended to install pegs or slatted trellises.

   

Caring for plants in a greenhouse

In a greenhouse, which works all year round to “produce” fresh vegetable products, the plants need especially careful care.

First important condition– soil preparation. Vegetables grown out of season in a greenhouse will place increased demands, primarily on the soil. It should be light, fertile, with a high concentration of substances needed by plants.

The following components are required in greenhouse soil:

• manure;
• turf;
• peat;
• straw (sawdust);
• sand;
• carbohydrate-containing and nitrogen-containing fertilizers.

The second condition is feeding. Vegetables and herbs must be fed regularly throughout the entire growth and fruiting cycle.

The third important component of care is watering and humidity regime. Preferred drip irrigation, or a fine shower (for some crops). If it is not possible to install an automatic watering system with regulation of the temperature of the supplied water, make sure that its temperature is not lower than the ambient temperature.

Heating is discussed in detail above. It is only worth noting that in conditions middle zone A year-round greenhouse will have to be heated at different rates for at least seven months a year.

An important maintenance measure is weed control and loosening the soil. Earthen crust is dangerous for all garden plants, but it is especially harmful to seedlings and seedlings in a greenhouse, where plants get less air than in open ground.

Loosening greenhouse soil, depending on the composition of the soil, often begins even before the emergence of seedlings (when sowing crops with seeds). If the seeds have not yet sprouted, but a crust has already formed, of course, it must be destroyed to make it easier for the seedlings to reach the surface. Loosening before germination is carried out between the rows, to a depth of no more than 5 cm, with a light ripper.

When the main crops sprout, or after seedlings are planted in the greenhouse, all loosening is combined with weeding and carried out after watering. The soil is loosened closer to the plant stem, but so as not to destroy the lateral roots.

Advice! Vegetable crops, such as tomatoes, peppers, cabbage, cucumbers, are loosened immediately after planting seedlings deeply, up to 7 cm. As the lateral roots grow, the depth of loosening decreases and the distance from the stem increases.

Also, in a year-round greenhouse, it is necessary to pay special attention to the prevention of diseases of vegetable crops, take measures to treat emerging diseases, promptly remove remnants of vegetation, obsolete canes, stems, leaves, and after harvesting, while preparing the greenhouse for a new sowing cycle, carry out its disinfection.

Growing vegetables in a greenhouse will definitely bring excellent results if you follow all the rules for caring for seedlings and planting them in protected soil. The reward will be juicy and healthy fruits, vegetables and herbs from your own plot all year round.

Video - How to build a large winter greenhouse

A greenhouse is essentially a unique part of your garden, because the vagaries of nature have no power over it. A greenhouse will allow you to grow vegetables in winter or admire the plants and flowers of your winter garden all year round. And it’s especially nice when it’s done with my own hands. After all, the harvest harvested in it will be especially tasty, and it is also important that by building a greenhouse with your own hands, you will save a considerable amount. Of course, a number of questions immediately arise. What types of greenhouses are there and which one to choose? Where is the best place to put it? Which material to choose? But don’t worry, we will answer all these questions and more. So, how to build a greenhouse with your own hands.

First of all, it is worth noting that buildings intended for growing plants are divided into greenhouses and greenhouses. A greenhouse is a more solid and complex structure. It usually has a foundation, walls and roof made of various materials. The design of a greenhouse is much simpler, it is small and mobile. A greenhouse is, in principle, not intended for the entire plant growth cycle. It is designed for growing seedlings, which are then planted in the ground.

Greenhouses are primarily divided into summer (seasonal) and winter (permanent).

Winter greenhouse

It is better to place a winter greenhouse closer to the communications of your home. Since the heating system must be run from them. Of course, you can heat the greenhouse with a stove, but this will be too troublesome. The stove must be constantly lit to maintain a stable temperature level. A capital greenhouse will definitely require a strong foundation and supports to withstand all weather factors.

Here we should also mention a thermos greenhouse, deepened into the ground several meters. But these greenhouses are built much less frequently due to their high labor intensity and cost. For it it is necessary to dig a pit, make a strong foundation and walls from thermoblocks, heating system and much more.

Summer greenhouse

Summer greenhouses usually mean greenhouses covered with dense polyethylene. This is the simplest and cheapest option for covering a greenhouse, which will last a couple of seasons if used carefully. Usually, either a wooden frame or a frame of PVC pipes is constructed, onto which a film is attached in the spring. A large selection of inexpensive seasonal greenhouses is also available for sale. They have an easily foldable, non-bulky design, which will be easy to hide at the end of the season if necessary.

According to their shape, greenhouses are divided into:

• arched
• single-pitched
• gable
• Mittlider greenhouse
• domed greenhouses
• polygonal

Arched greenhouse It has an arched roof shape, thanks to which the sun's rays will be evenly distributed over the entire area and, accordingly, the plants will receive maximum sunlight and heat. Also, this shape prevents the accumulation of large amounts of snow, so it is not in danger of deformation, and your work will be reduced.

Lean greenhouses usually attached one side to any thorough construction plot. Perhaps, ideal option it will be if it is attached to the south side of a residential, heated house. In this option, you will save not only space on your site, but also energy for heating. But in this option, unlike the previous one, snow can accumulate, so you should be careful during snowfalls.

And the most common today - gable greenhouses. They can be both winter and summer. The main advantage of these greenhouses is their size. There is plenty of space here for you and your plants. In such a greenhouse, some part of the area can even be allocated as a recreation area.

Form Mittlider greenhouses usually based on gable construction(less often arched). But still we singled it out in separate species because of its unique two-level roof, which allows for a transom (windows in the picture below). The transom in this case is a full-fledged ventilation system, eliminating all the disadvantages of ventilation of other types of greenhouses. It not only ventilates, but also supplies the plants with the carbon dioxide they need for nutrition.

Domed greenhouse represents a more element design rather than a fully functional greenhouse. However, it is perfect for growing flowers and will look great in a snowy garden. Still, it is worth noting that the domed shape provides a number of significant advantages. Among them, it is worth noting durability and stability, and most importantly, good illumination throughout the day. The disadvantage is its small size, which is why it is often not very convenient to work with. Such a greenhouse is difficult to manufacture, so they usually buy ready-made structures.

Polygonal greenhouses As a rule, they have an octagonal shape, which gives them a number of advantages, but also makes their construction more expensive and labor-intensive. The advantages include an attractive appearance, which makes them a real decoration of the garden, as well as a number of practical qualities. It is convenient to install shelving and work in them, but, most importantly, at least one of the eight sides is always at the best angle to the sun.

Choosing a location for a greenhouse

The effectiveness of a greenhouse will largely depend on its location. Please note the following:

1. If you are planning a solid greenhouse, then to provide the necessary conditions for the plants (lighting, wind), build it from west to east.
2. The amount of soil, as well as its slope, plays a big role. The greenhouse should only be placed on level ground. If the soil is clayey, it must first be sprinkled with gravel, and then a layer of fertile soil must be added. You should not install the greenhouse in lowlands, on sandy soil, or in swampy areas.
3. Considering the need for communications, remember the proximity to the house. As stated above, good option there may be a greenhouse extension to the house or another building not far from it. This, for example, will facilitate heating and protection from the wind and will be beneficial for a small area. Most importantly, do not forget that this building should not interfere with access to the sun.
4. To improve the temperature regime, deepen the greenhouse by 70-80 centimeters. When deepening, it is worth remembering about low-growing plants, since if they are deepened too much, they may not receive enough light.
5. Do not place the greenhouse close to trees, they will create unnecessary shade for the plants.

Greenhouse frame

One of the key elements of the greenhouse design that ensures its strength and stability is the frame. There are three most common and popular types of frames: metal, wood, plastic (PVC). Briefly about each of them:

• Plus wooden frame is the convenience of its construction and more opportunities for improvisation. To protect against weather factors, the wood will require mandatory processing, but despite this, the wooden frame will still be inferior in terms of durability to the other two. The main advantage of this material is its environmental friendliness.
• Metal carcass stands out for its durability. There is no need to worry about it during strong winds or snowfall. Exist different variants metal frames, but if you choose a steel profile, remember the need for anti-corrosion coating.
• PVC frame considered reliable and safe. The strength of this frame will primarily depend on the thickness of the selected profile. Using polyvinyl chloride (PVC), you can create a completely sealed system in your greenhouse and control the microclimate in it as you wish.

Covering for greenhouse

For reliable protection plants will need good material to cover the greenhouse. The most common are: glass, various types of film and products made from the same PVC.

When choosing glass for a greenhouse, keep in mind that it must be highly durable to withstand all weather disasters. Best choice Will be tempered glass or triplex. If it is not possible to install one of these options, installing several glasses may be an option.

Film- the most popular option for covering a greenhouse today. At making the right choice and with proper care it can last a long time. Nowadays, various types of film are produced specifically for greenhouses and greenhouses. For example:

• Reinforced film is a particularly strong material that helps protect plants from frost. Most often, gardeners choose it.
• Light-converting film - converts ultraviolet radiation into infrared, which in turn promotes plant growth.

PVC products- this is a cell phone and monolithic polycarbonate and acrylic plastic that transmits light well. Polycarbonate is increasingly in demand. It has a number of noticeable advantages:

• relatively low price;
• material flexibility;
• does not fade and looks aesthetically pleasing;
• good thermal insulation due to the air gap;
• resistant to temperature changes and other weather factors;
• lightness of the material, which allows you not to build an impressive frame and foundation for it;
• dissipates sunlight well;
• ease of installation and dismantling;
• durability.

How to build a greenhouse with your own hands

Before building a greenhouse, you must have a clear idea of ​​the future construction. To do this, you need to draw up a diagram of the greenhouse, calculate the amount of material needed and, of course, prepare the place. To give you an idea of ​​the progress of construction, let's look at a visual example of the construction of one of the greenhouse options.

Aluminum pipes are used for the frame of the greenhouse.

To give the pipes the required shape, we use a simple pipe bender.

Obviously, if you are using PVC pipes, this step will not be necessary.

The result should be the following.

In our example, larger diameter pipes are used to secure the arches of the greenhouse frame. They are driven to a depth of 40-50 cm. The height of the pipes above the ground should be about 30-40 cm.

Instead of pipes of larger diameter, conventional fittings with the same dimensions can be used for fastening. It is driven into the ground in the same way, and the frame arches are put on top.

We install boards (plinth) along the perimeter, pre-treated with an antiseptic. Then we drill a hole through the board and both pipes. Then securely fasten it with bolts. We fasten the boards to each other with metal jumpers.

Using a wooden beam, we assemble the frames of the “fronts”.

We fasten the transverse arcs with a longitudinal pipe.

We cover the wooden frame with siding or plain plywood, and then paint it.

We cover all potentially sharp and rough edges so as not to tear the film.

All that remains is to install the door and cover the greenhouse with film. Let's talk in more detail about the options for attaching the film.

Attaching the film to the greenhouse

We list the most popular mounting options:

• Wooden slats nailed or screwed with self-tapping screws. Alternatively, instead of slats, you can use cut linoleum or packing tape, and fasten them with a construction stapler. But this option is better used for reinforced film, since other types will inevitably tear from gusts of wind over time.
• Clamps, clips. Now there is a large selection of such mounts, so purchasing them will not be a problem. But if you wish, you can make them yourself, for example, from PVC pipes. It's not difficult at all, and with a little experimentation, you're sure to make the right ones. If you purchase metal clips, be sure to place something under them, as the metal can damage the film when heated in the sun.
• The mesh is the safest mounting option. After we cover the greenhouse with film, we lay a mesh on top of it, which is tied to the body. Of course, some additional film mount, at least minimal, must be present. Otherwise, after every heavy rain you will have to adjust it. Instead of a net, in principle, a rope can be used, although this is more troublesome.

We have discussed with you, we hope that this article was useful to you.