Home > Ceiling > Plastering a façade insulated with polystyrene foam – from reinforcement to decorative finishing. Insulating a house with penoplex from the outside or how to avoid mistakes made by beginners The best way to plaster a façade with penoplex

Plastering a façade insulated with polystyrene foam – from reinforcement to decorative finishing. Insulating a house with penoplex from the outside or how to avoid mistakes made by beginners The best way to plaster a façade with penoplex

When you can already feel the approach in the air cold winter, we can’t help thinking about how to better insulate your home. Penoplex is a very popular option, optimal in price and quality. In use, the material will not take much effort and time from the builder, but it will definitely be necessary to protect the insulation from mechanical and weather influences. How to do this will be discussed in this article.

Penoplex is often used as insulation of buildings from the outside or inside. Working with it is made easier by the consistent physical characteristics and dimensions of the slabs. The strength of penoplex is not enough to prevent the slabs from collapsing from pinpoint impacts and other physical impacts (dents cannot be avoided in any case). Therefore, it is necessary to protect the material from the adverse effects of ultraviolet radiation, humidity, etc. And visually, a wall insulated with slabs still seems unfinished and requires additional finishing. The use of penoplex implies, in addition to insulation, also additional finishing.

A simple and inexpensive method of finishing surfaces after insulation is plaster. This type of construction work is appropriate when the slabs are attached to the surface by gluing. Penoplex can be installed in another way: in a supporting frame, in the cells of the sheathing. With this option, the facing of the plane will be done either with panels, or clapboard, or something else.

We check if there are any gaps between the plates. Almost no one succeeds in laying insulation perfectly the first time. We seal the joints if this moment was missed during installation. Pay attention to the curvature of the entire plane, because the adhesive solution is then applied in a thin layer. It will not be possible to level out unevenness due to the specific composition. To close the gaps between the foam boards, you can foam the gaps with foam for insulation systems (or usually mounting foam), for example, Ceresit CT-84. For one can (850 ml) you will need to pay approximately 600 rubles.

Penoplex prices

Penoplex

Making a plaster solution

Do not use a standard cement-based mortar with sand, as it will not give a good quality plaster composition. The store is full of mixtures with a composition suitable for laying on penoplex.

Experienced finishers advise using:

"Stolit"
"Ceresit"
"Ecomix".

When mixing, strictly follow the instructions left by the manufacturer on the packaging. Experienced craftsmen make a mixture that is similar in thickness to sour cream. To glue fiberglass mesh, the consistency of the mixture should be slightly thinner than required by the manufacturer. In the case of a leveling layer, the solution should be so liquid that it flows freely from the spatula. Hence the different consumption of the composition: gluing the mesh will require 4 kg per 1 sq. meter, for a leveling layer - 6 kg of mixture per square meter. meter.

The compositions of different manufacturers, despite being very similar, have various components. Therefore, it is better to use products from the same manufacturer at the same facility to avoid unnecessary problems.

Use formulations that are universal in application, and you won’t have to think about additional nuances associated with limitations in the scope of application.

Prices for popular types of plaster

Plaster

Primary layer sketch

Penoplex is prepared for plastering by laying the primary layer. For this purpose, alkali-resistant PVC mesh should be used. By using PVC, you will insure yourself against the aggressive influence of cement on the exposed mesh. Cement is known to react with many materials.

Cut strips the length of which should be slightly greater than the height of the wall. Please note that installation is done from top to bottom. Apply the strip to the fiberglass with one hand, and apply the solution to the mesh exclusively along the top edge with the other. Thus, the mesh is, as it were, “welded” to the penoplex. As a result, the primary layer should be up to 5 mm thick.

Penoplex insulation scheme: 1 - penoplex slabs, 2 - glue, 3 - dowels, 4 - reinforcing mesh, 5 - primer, 6 - plaster coating

When the top edge is fixed to the plane, apply the solution to the mesh so that it is evenly distributed across the entire width. Every movement comes from top to bottom. Be sure to leave a vertical “tape” clean of the plaster mixture on the right side, because each subsequent strip will overlap the edge of the previous one by almost 1 cm.

As a result, it turns out that the wall will be strip by strip covered with a mesh over its entire surface. Look at all the places on the wall where the geometry of the plane changes (door openings, slopes, window openings) - first of all, you need to start laying the mesh from them.

Prices for reinforcing mesh for foam plastic

Smoothing the first layer

This procedure must be performed so that the base under the second layer is smooth and monolithic. Moisten the trowel with water and level the entire surface, lightly pressing on the foam. We do not pay attention to the sections of the mesh that appear through the solution to the outside - this is normal. It happens that, after waiting for the solution to dry, experienced specialists Prime the primary layer again.

Finishing mixture

A second coat is needed to complete the wall alignment and hide everything. auxiliary elements, for example, reinforcement. The third layer is possible if the quality of the second for some reason does not please the master. But this is only a “rough” finishing before the final stage - the final surface design. The last stage is usually performed using decorative plaster. If the surface was made uneven, then normal installation of the “decoration” is out of the question.

Table. Required Tools and materials.

№	Name
1	Vessel for preparing the mixture
2	Water container
3	Spatulas of various sizes
4	PVC mesh for making a reinforced layer
5	Oil brush
6	Paint roller
7	Penoplex trowel
8	The plaster composition is either “Ceresit”, or “Ecomix”, or “Stolit”
9	Polyurethane foam Ceresit CT-84 (850ml)
10	Primer "Betonkontakt"
11	Glue CeresitCT 83, or KREISEL 210, or Glims KF, etc.

What needs to be provided

Before purchasing plastering materials, make a calculation of the quantity purchased. If you carry out work on installed technology, then the mixture consumption will be within 4 kg/m2 when laying the initial layer. The second layer will require from 5.5 to 6.5 kg/m2.

This advice: take a spare mixture in case you suddenly need to make a third correction layer.

Step-by-step instructions for plastering penoplex

To plaster the foam yourself, you need to do a series of preparatory steps, one after the other in a strict order.

First step. Ensure good adhesion by treating the surface with a deeply penetrating primer “Betonkontakt” (from manufacturers such as VIOLUX, Ceresit, Feidal). Price 700-1000 rub. for 15 l. Suitable for work large brush paint roller or paint roller. Before application, you need to shake the composition and pour some part into a suitable plane. Dip the brush into the liquid and apply an even layer of primer to the surface. Liquid should not leak or accumulate in certain areas. The surface is treated with a primer one more time after the first layer has dried.

Second step. Attach the base profile to the wall. Will need measuring tool(for example, a ruler or tape measure) to mark the points on the wall where you will make holes with a drill. It’s better to take a hammer drill for this - you’ll lose less time.

Third step. To glue foam boards to the wall, mix the adhesive solution. To simplify the process and reduce work time, select a container that fits the entire bag of mixture. It is most convenient to knead with an electric mixer with a collapsible attachment.

Fourth step. As soon as the prepared solution is on the facade, glue the foam boards to it. But it will be more convenient and economical to apply glue to one side of the slab, distributing it evenly along the entire perimeter. And in the middle it’s enough to throw a few “cakes”. Place the insulation against the wall carefully along the pre-set load-bearing supports. It is recommended to slam the stove several times. Use a spatula to remove excess solution.

Insulation of the facade with 5 cm penoplex and framing the corners with 2 cm penoplex

Fifth step. Each penoplex plate must be rigidly fixed using a dowel umbrella. This operation is carried out using a drill. 4–6 holes are made throughout the entire area, into which dowel umbrellas are placed. Cover the dowel caps along with all the recesses in the penoplex.

Sixth step. From perforated corners and fiberglass mesh is used as a reinforcing layer. Aluminum corners are glued to the outer corners. The same glue is used for the corners and mesh: either Ceresit ST 83, or KREISEL 210, or Glims KF. Price 350-600 rub. for 25 kg. It is necessary to cut out a reinforced fiberglass mesh. It should be taken into account that the canvases should overlap each other no more than 10 cm when they are glued to the slabs. Also leave a distance of almost 10 cm for turning the corners. Apply the adhesive composition approximately 3 mm thick - it is more convenient to do this from top to bottom in small areas at a time. Its thickness should be slightly less than indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer. Compliance with these points ensures that the glue does not have time to set before the completion of the reinforcing layer. Then use a putty knife to glue the fiberglass to the wall.

Advice! If the fiberglass mesh does not have sufficient flexibility and the corners cannot be bent normally, apply liquid glue at the bends to make the fabric more elastic.

Seventh step. The adhesive solution is applied to the reinforcing layer. An ordinary spatula will help you apply a layer of glue evenly. In essence, it looks like rough plaster.

Eighth step. A finishing layer (or two) of primer is distributed over the thermal insulation cake. This is done using a wide brush.

Ninth step. Plastering and painting of the facade is carried out at the final stage of work using a plaster falcon and a paint roller. The primer must dry before doing this. After drying, the finishing is completed with decorative plaster. It is rubbed over after the applied layer begins to set. When the plaster dries, the surface is painted with special facade paint. For these purposes, water-dispersed compositions are used.

At the ninth step, work on insulating and protecting walls from freezing can be considered completed. When insulation is carried out inside a building, then instead of plaster on reinforced layer Putty is applied, followed by decorative finishing (wallpapering or painting). It should be noted that staining is not necessary in all cases. To the question of when to paint and when not to paint, you can find the answer on the packaging of the putty you are using.

Video - Do-it-yourself façade plastering using penoplex

Expanded polystyrene boards can perhaps be considered the most the best option insulation for external walls. Judge for yourself: it is not blown by the wind, is not afraid of rodents, and practically does not absorb moisture. Moreover, it has sufficient rigidity so that the walls lined with it can be plastered.

How to plaster penoplex on the outside, and what is the essence of this technology? You will learn about this from the video in this article, which is a visual application to its theoretical part.

Advantages and characteristics of penoplex

The main advantage of the Penoplex Wall insulation, which you see in the photo below, is low coefficient thermal conductivity, which does not exceed 0.03 W/M*0C. At the same time, its compressive strength is 0.20 kgf/cm2, and its density is at least 25 kg/m3.

So:

Low vapor permeability, which can only be compared with materials based on foamed polyethylene (penofol, isolon), allows you to omit such a technological operation as the installation of vapor barrier films from the insulating “pie”. Since penoplex does not corrode, its service life is at least half a century.

The structure of the plates is homogeneous, with evenly distributed pores, which greatly increases the strength of the material. But at the same time, it can be easily cut with a stationery knife, which allows any owner to insulate the house with his own hands.
Thanks to high density, wall polystyrene foam does not change its geometric parameters over time, and it can be used as a base for plaster. Its resistance to moisture allows the installation of slabs on the facade in any weather.

Penoplex sheets have standard size 1200*600 mm. In this case, the thickness can vary between 30-100 mm, which determines its price. It is sold in packages in which the number of slabs depends on their thickness. The package contains 14 slabs with a thickness of 30 mm, and it costs 4900-5000 rubles.

What is needed for plastering on insulation

To install penoplex you need some devices, for plaster - others. Therefore, in order to plaster walls using insulation, a fairly large list is collected. Let's look at what it includes.

Tools and Supplies

To take measurements and control planes, you need a tape measure; metal square; plumb line; two-meter bubble, and water levels. To prepare surfaces, use a steel brush, a paintbrush, which is also useful for applying primer, as well as masking tape and polyethylene, which is used to cover window blocks and doors.

You will need:

Hammer or drill with drills and a “mixer” attachment, will be needed both for drilling holes in the walls and for mixing the adhesive and plaster mixture. A hammer in the form of a pick is used both during the preparation process and for driving dowels into the holes.

To fix heat-insulating boards, non-ordinary dowel-nails are used, and dowel-fungi, which are also called disc-shaped. They have a wide flat cap, which does not allow the fastener to “sink” into the thickness of the slab. You should take fasteners with a diameter of 10 mm, but the length of the dowel is selected depending on the thickness of the insulation. Since its length must exceed the thickness of the material being reinforced by 30 mm, then for insulation with a thickness of 50 mm, a dowel 80 mm long is needed. They are sold in packs of 1000 pieces, although the price is per piece (8-10 rubles). To tighten the dowel cores, you must have a screwdriver or an appropriate drill attachment.
The slabs are cut either with a knife with a blade at least 250 mm long, or a fine-toothed universal hacksaw. It is also necessary to have two types of scissors in your arsenal: for metal, for cutting the base profile, and simple ones, for cutting fiberglass mesh.

Pay attention! A mesh with a cell of 4*4 or 5*5 mm is used to reinforce the screed, which will become the basis for the finishing layer. It is sold in rolls of 50m, and, depending on the width, costs between 1900-2500 rubles. When purchasing a mesh, you need to make sure that the label says “facade”, since there are also painting and plastering options that are not suitable for facades.

List consumables must replenish the base profile, which in this case plays the role of a starting strip and serves as a support for the first row of insulation. To connect its ends, special joining elements are needed. To ensure a high-quality connection of the mesh to door and window openings, a connection profile is used.

To protect the corners of the house from mechanical damage, you need plaster corners with mesh, and for leveling profiles along a plane - plastic expansion joints. Since penoplex is attached not only with dowels, but also with glue, accordingly, you will have to buy glue for the insulation and a water-dispersion primer that will strengthen the base base.
But to install the mesh, you don’t need glue, but adhesive putty. For the best adhesion of the finishing layer of plaster to the reinforcing layer, it is necessary to use a primer - a primer, which should be selected for the type of solution that will be applied to it. By the way, about the decorative layer: most often, so-called warm plasters are used for this purpose.

And they are called that because they contain materials as filler that are raw materials for the manufacture of insulation. These are foam glass beads, perlite, vermiculite - and the same polystyrene, only granulated. This plaster itself is thermal insulation material, and thereby improves the thermal engineering of the facade as a whole.

As for the tools for applying mixtures, you will need the usual arsenal of a plasterer: a set of spatulas, including a serrated one, with which glue is applied to the slabs; straight and corner trowels; graters made of stainless steel and plastic; as well as an aluminum rule, a roller, and a sanding block (see Tools for plastering walls: what you will need for the job).

Tools that are considered general construction tools are found in almost every home, but what is not there will have to be purchased or borrowed. But regarding consumables, you don’t have to worry about it, but purchase a warm plaster system from the manufacturer. In this case, you will be offered a kit that contains everything - from mounting profiles to dry plaster mixture.

Plastering process

So, let’s figure out how façade plaster using penoplex is performed. As always, work begins with determining the geometry of the facade and preparing the surface of the walls. Those who do not think that time should be spent on this are very mistaken.

Where the foundation is not properly prepared is where problems begin in the first place:

In order for polystyrene foam boards to stick well to the walls, there should be no dust or sagging on their surface masonry mortar, no remnants of old plaster. Any stains: mastic, rust, mold are also removed. But the surface must not only be clean, but also smooth.
This is very important, since on walls that have bumps and depressions, the joints between the heat-insulating boards will be too large. So, if there is a curved brick wall at the base, then it should be leveled with cement plaster, let it dry, and only then proceed with the installation of the slabs.

Today the issue of home insulation is quite relevant.

Polystyrene foam and penoplex are very popular for maintaining heat in the house. These materials are produced from extruded polystyrene.

Used for thermal insulation of walls both indoors and facade.

Penoplex is used to insulate the foundation, basement, floor, ceiling, roof.

Expanded polystyrene is a unique material whose history begins in France in the 30s of the 20th century.

It is used as a thermal insulation and structural material. They are used both in construction and in aircraft and shipbuilding.

This insulating material has a large number advantages:

Excellent thermal insulation characteristics;
High moisture resistance;
Withstands severe frosts (down to minus 40 degrees);
Environmental friendliness;
Long service life subject to operating conditions;
Affordable price;
Easy to process and install.

Why plaster insulation?

Despite many advantages, insulation also has disadvantages:

Subject to mechanical stress;
Under the influence sun rays deformed.

Therefore, this material itself needs to be protected from the effects of various environmental factors. And penoplex plaster is required. Most often, plaster is used for this. What mixture is suitable for plastering this insulation? Let's try to figure it out.

Choosing the composition

Several types of plaster are used for cladding penoplex. They all differ in their component composition and are characterized by certain properties. So, there are the following types of solution:

Plaster based on mineral components;
Silicate mixture;
Acrylic plaster.

Mineral mixture

Thus, the mineral composition is made from cement and various polymer additives. This plaster is characterized by high resistance to moisture, resistance to fungus and mold. The price of such plaster is quite affordable. Due to the elasticity of the mixture, it is easy to apply to the surface to be treated. This is an excellent option for protecting insulation.

Silicate mixture

The silicate composition has unique properties. In the production of such plaster, liquid glass is used, which gives the solution excellent properties. Thanks to these components, the plaster adheres perfectly to the surface, becomes durable after drying, and is not afraid of water and moisture. Therefore, it is used both for interior decoration and facades.

Acrylic plaster

Acrylic plaster is used to finish surfaces that are exposed to moisture and sun. This is all possible due to the components that are present in such a mixture. So, where cement mortar cannot cope with the task, acrylic mixture will come to the rescue. And the cost of such a solution is naturally higher.

Manufacturers of building materials offer consumers large selection plasters. Various mixtures from Knauf and Ceresit have proven themselves to be excellent.

Plastering penoplex

Penoplex plaster has a certain technology. At correct execution These actions will give you excellent results. So, the order is:

Preparing the solution
Installation of reinforcing mesh;
Grouting the surface;
Padding;
Surface leveling;
Grout.

Preparing the mixture

The first stage of our work is preparing the mixture. The solution must be prepared following the instructions in the instructions. To process expanded polystyrene, craftsmen use both universal mixtures, which are used to glue segments of insulation to the wall and apply on top, and mixtures for narrow purposes.

Usually the manufacturer indicates the consumption on the packaging. But on average you can calculate it using the formula:

When reinforcing, you need about 4 kg of mixture per 1 square meter;
For leveling - 6 kg per 1 square meter.

These figures also depend on the thickness of the plaster layer: the thicker the layer, the greater the consumption.

Advice from the expert: To glue the reinforcing mesh, make the solution thinner than indicated on the package. And for leveling, the solution should have the consistency of jelly.

Installation of reinforcing mesh

Using reinforcing mesh for penoplex plaster is prerequisite for high-quality finishing of insulation. Otherwise, after drying, the solution will crack and fall off.

We begin to attach the reinforcement from the corners and slopes. To save on mounting corners, you can make such profiles from mesh with your own hands. We cut a strip about 35 cm wide and bend it in the center along the entire length. Next, apply the solution to the surface and apply our workpiece, slightly pressing it into the mixture. And we do this with all angles. After this, glue the mesh over the entire remaining surface. At the same time, as if drowning our mesh in the solution. We glue the strips overlapping each other - about 5 cm. Smooth the mesh from the center to the bottom, and from the center - up.

Applying plaster

Next we move on to grouting the surface. To do this, we use a plastic grater with an abrasive strip. This operation is done after the plaster is completely dry. If it's hot outside, this will take a couple of hours. Well, if it’s damp and cold, you’ll have to wait a day. We make movements with the tool in a circle counterclockwise.

After this, the surface needs to be primed. The primer promotes good adhesion of the finishing layer and the surface. Now let's start leveling the surface. To do this we need two spatulas - large and small. Using a large spatula, apply the plaster evenly to the surface. The layer thickness should be about 3 mm.

After the solution has dried, we begin grouting. This work can be done in a day, not earlier. Rub the surface until smooth.

Often during renovations the question arises: how to paint penoplex without plaster. Experts advise the following: taking into account the features of this insulation, you can paint it with mineral paint, water-emulsion or a composition based on liquid glass.

Hello everyone. Alexander Tkachev is with you again. I continue to renovate my apartment. Immediately after installing the technoplex on the walls of the loggia, I made it reinforced plaster with a special plaster and adhesive mixture “Ceresit 85.” A huge advantage of technoplex is that it is a very good insulation material, but with its own disadvantage. The downside is its flammability. Therefore, I did not put off the plaster until later, but began to do it immediately after the installation was completed, which is what I write about in this publication.

Since I was doing this work for the first time, I naturally read the instructions for plastering Technoplex insulation.
First, What I did was to tear through the entire plane of the technoplex with an old hacksaw blade. The furrows were made horizontally, without gaps. As a result, the surface of the technoplex turned out to be rough.

And the roughness contributes to good adhesion of the plaster to the technoplex, which is what we need!!!
Second What needs to be done is to glue the façade mesh to reinforce the technoplex. The task was to ensure that the mesh was located inside the plaster layer at a certain distance from the technoplex.

Mixing the plaster and adhesive mixture

For this I used a metal toothed grater. I apply the mixed adhesive mixture to the wall in a strip the width of a 1m roll of mesh. and about 1 cm thick.. Then I make a comb with a notched grater.

In this case, a toothed grater with a tooth height of 8 mm was used. Next, I put the mesh on the comb and with the smooth side of the grater I press this mesh evenly over the entire area.

So, I work meter by meter until the entire wall is covered with this mesh for the reinforcement of the technoplex. In this case, the mesh will be embedded in the adhesive mixture at a distance of 3-5mm. from the surface of the technoplex. And this is enough for the mesh to work like reinforcement, and not like a simple layer!!!
Third, what we need to do is install beacons,

and of course plastering on the lighthouses. We can read how to install beacons. After the beacons have dried so much that the rule will not push them through, you can begin the plaster itself. The actual plaster consists of mixing the plaster and adhesive mixture according to the instructions. Then, in any available way, distribute this mixture between the beacons (it sticks to the plex easily), and tighten it with a rule.

If after the rule there are any holes left, then fill them again with the solution and tighten them, achieving a flat surface. The next day the beacons are pulled out. The grooves from the lighthouses are sealed with the same solution.

After our plaster has hardened, we grout the entire surface with a metal float, using the same mixture

In order to obtain a facade made of foam plastic, you should use glue; Ceresit will do the job perfectly.

The adhesive composition should be prepared before starting work, and then used immediately. After an hour, the glue will no longer be suitable for gluing, as it dries quickly.

Gluing foam plastic involves applying glue to the entire sheet or at 5 points, which are to be distributed over the largest area; this should be done so that the sheet is fixed as firmly as possible to the base.

This finish will protect the house in winter.

It is preferable to use sheets that have a rough surface, however, the sheets can be artificially roughened, which will ensure good adhesion to the glue.

The installation of sheets must be carried out in parallel with checking the level for verticality and horizontality; if necessary, the foam can be trimmed to ensure correct installation.

Before starting such work, every master asks the question of how to knit sheets.

When laying, the foam should be fastened in a checkerboard pattern.

To do this, after one row you should start laying with a sheet that should be cut in half. If the sheets do not match, which leads to the formation of gaps, the grooves can be filled with liquid foam; as an alternative, you can use the option of inserting scraps into the gaps.

When covering the façade of a house with polystyrene foam, it is unacceptable to use polyurethane foam.

Installation of sheets must involve additional fastening, in addition to glue - mechanical.

Each sheet additionally needs to be fixed with dowels with “umbrellas”. 5 dowels will be needed per sheet. As soon as the façade of the house is insulated with polystyrene foam, the fasteners should be treated with glue.

Reinforcement and plastering

Before finishing the house with polystyrene foam, you will need to carry out reinforcement and plastering. In order to make reinforcement, it will be necessary to use 2 types of fiberglass mesh.

The first one will be a hard fiberglass mesh, the second one will be a soft one.

Installation of rigid fiberglass mesh is carried out in the area of the walls, soft - in the corners. Among other things, the corners must be reinforced with profile corners.

Installation at the last stage involves finishing the facade using plaster.

Plastering stages

The penoplex cladding process consists of the following steps:

Preparatory work.
Surface reinforcement.
Applying a leveling layer.

Each stage is extremely important, so their implementation must be taken responsibly.

Preparatory work

The first thing you need to figure out is what kind of plaster will be used for penoplex. Experts recommend using universal mixtures of leading brands. However, there are also special formulations designed for polystyrene foam boards. One such product is Ceresit plaster-adhesive mixture.

The composition is prepared according to the instructions indicated on the package, but there is extremely important point, related to consistency. To install the reinforcing mesh, the consistency of the composition should be slightly lower than what the manufacturer recommends.

For leveling, the solution must be as liquid as possible. To install the reinforcing mesh you will need about 4 kg of composition per 1 m², and for the leveling layer - 6 kg.

To plaster penoplex you will need to prepare the following tools and materials:

glue for polystyrene foam and attaching reinforcing mesh;
deep penetration primer;
fiberglass reinforced mesh;
two spatulas of different sizes and a sanding float;
perforated corners.

The preparation stage also includes grouting the penoplex to eliminate possible unevenness and differences in the surface. You should not rush to complete the work, as it will preparatory work The overall result directly depends.

Reinforcement process

Installation of plaster mesh is extremely important stage. Without it, plastered walls may crack, which will significantly affect their service life. To install the mesh, you will need to apply a layer of glue about 3 mm thick to the surface of the penoplex and glue the product onto it. Also, in the process of performing such work, it is necessary to take into account the following nuances:

It is necessary to press the mesh into the plaster no more than halfway, but at the same time the entire surface of the product should be immersed in the adhesive composition. The plaster solution is applied in several stages. Often this is done in strips no more than 1 m, since this is exactly the width of façade mesh.
The reinforcing mesh should be glued only to fresh mortar; it should be immersed using a smooth spatula.
The strips of the product are laid overlapping, with an allowance of at least 10 cm. You need to work especially carefully with the corners, where reinforcement usually begins. To properly glue a corner, you need to use a 30 cm wide strip, bend it in half, press it to the corner and press it into the adhesive solution.

After the reinforcing layer has dried, you will need to grout the entire surface. To do this, you can use a grinding machine or a grater with an emery cloth. Grouting is done in a counterclockwise circular motion, but without putting much pressure on the tool.

It must be taken into account that the drying time of the solution directly depends on weather conditions. In hot weather, it will be enough to wait a few hours and start grouting; in cold weather, it is better to wait at least a day.

Applying a leveling layer

The next procedure is to level the surface with plaster. For this, the same universal solution is used as for reinforcement. The composition is applied using a spatula and distributed evenly over the entire wall. The layer thickness should not be more than 3 mm.

The final procedure is grouting the penoplex. It is performed in the same way as with reinforcement and only after the solution has completely dried. It will take at least a day to dry completely, and even more in the cold season. But you shouldn’t wait too long either, since after 4 days the solution may harden greatly and grouting will no longer be possible.

After the entire surface has been treated, the plastering process is considered complete and you can begin to putty the premises.

On video: how to plaster penoplex.

How can you paint penoplex?

This thermal insulating agent “hates” organic solvents. The physical characteristics of the material become worse if it is exposed to such substances. Paints and varnishes mainly have such compositions. Please take this into account when choosing construction market.

The components that must be absent from painting mixtures have already been mentioned above. You can also add ethers, polyesters and tar to this list.

There is no need to use oil-based compounds for painting polystyrene foam boards. Substances that cannot cause any harm:

paraffin;
cement mortar;
water-based paint;
acid.

Choose paint that has the RS mark.

Choosing plaster for the facade

To choose exterior finishing it needs to be taken seriously, because the service life of the insulation depends on it. Plaster allows you to solve problems:

Protection against mechanical damage. Fragile polystyrene foam easily crumbles and dents, so it must be protected from impacts.
Waterproofing. Expanded polystyrene, although poorly, still absorbs moisture (up to 2% by volume when fully immersed). At the same time, it takes a very long time to dry. Wet foam retains heat much worse. Its strength decreases.
Sun protection. Ultraviolet rays dry the foam. Over time, it begins to crumble.
Improving fire safety. The plaster layer will protect the insulation from fire.

For finishing external walls, insulated with foam plastic, you will need 2 or 3 types of mixtures, depending on the final finish:

1. Glue solution based on cement, sand and polymer additives. It is used when installing insulation sheets to street walls and to create a base layer with reinforcing mesh. Decorative finishing will already be applied on top of it. You can use, for example, Ceresit CT 83, Weber.Therm S100, Unis Warm Adhesive, Knauf Sevener (universal adhesive mixture).

2.Cement-sand mortar . It will protect the foam from damage. Finishing decorative plaster or facade paint .

You can prepare this mixture yourself using a mixer. The proportions of materials will be different depending on the brand of cement. For example, for the M400 brand, take 4 parts of sifted dry sand for 1 part. For plasticity, lime and surfactants are added. Mixing it yourself helps you save a lot when plastering.

Ready-made CPU mixtures are available in almost every hardware store. Here are a few popular brands: Knauf Unterputz, Forman No. 61, Osnovit Startwell PC2, Volma Aquaslayer, etc. Price: ready-made mixtures around 200-300 rubles for 25 kg, depending on the manufacturer.

mixing the solution

3. . It has different binding bases: acrylic, silicone, silicate, etc. Since the foam has low vapor permeability and is also covered with a layer cement plaster, then you can choose any decorative composition. All that matters is the price and customer preferences.

Features of insulation and materials used in work

A very common question is: is it possible to plaster penoplex without preliminary preparation? Everything is simple here - if you don’t follow the technology, the coating will most likely fall off in a couple of years. But if you do everything correctly, the plastered surface will last a very long time.

Most often, insulation is used outside buildings, less often - indoors. This is due to the fact that penoplex almost does not allow evaporation to pass through, and when used from the inside, the dew point may end up inside the wall, which negatively affects its strength.

Selection of plaster

If you decide to do the plastering yourself, then you need to choose a finishing composition. Nowadays, there are three main options:

Mineral compositions. They are made on a cement basis and have a number of advantages: low cost, durability and good resistance to weathering and moisture. This is the most popular version of plaster mixtures and is used most often. The composition is versatile; it can be used for gluing reinforcing mesh and for finishing leveling the surface, but there are also separate options with fillers for decorative finishing.

Cement-based compositions - a reliable and inexpensive solution

Compositions on acrylic base . Most often used for finishing and may have different structures. They are durable and have good moisture resistance; they are most often sold ready-made in plastic buckets. A significant disadvantage is the high cost; this option will cost much more than the first; moreover, such mixtures cannot be used for gluing the mesh.

Acrylic compounds are durable and resist moisture well

Silicate mixtures. Great option for facades, characterized by high elasticity and resistance to moisture. A moisture-proof layer is obtained on the surface, which at the same time has good vapor permeability from the inside. Most often, the compositions are sold ready-made and have fillers in the form of pebbles or other materials, it all depends on the texture that is obtained during finishing.

Silicate based plaster

Silicone based compounds- the most modern solution. The coatings are reliable and durable; they are not afraid of moisture and do not crack over time, since the layer is elastic and stretches under deformation forces and temperature changes. The only negative is the high price; this is the most expensive solution to date.

Silicone plasters are the most reliable, but also the most expensive

Materials for work

In addition to the plaster composition, you will need a number of other materials:

Illustration	Description
	Dowels for thermal insulation. Used for additional fastening of material to the wall. Even if you have firmly glued the sheets, be sure to install additional fasteners before plastering them. It will eliminate surface deformation. The length is selected according to the thickness of the insulation; the fasteners must protrude by at least 50 mm.
	Facade mesh. It is used to reinforce the surface and create a stabilizing layer that is resistant to cracks and improves the adhesion of plaster to the smooth surface of penoplex. The density of the mesh must be at least 160 grams per square; when choosing, check whether the cells are even and whether the material does not stretch.
	Facade primer. Apply to the first leveling layer to improve adhesion and strengthen the surface. Use only special compounds that are weather resistant.
	Corners with mesh. To strengthen the corners of the building and the edges of openings, a special corner with a mesh is needed. It is usually made of plastic, so it has excellent moisture resistance and does not collapse when exposed to water.

Primary layer sketch

Penoplex insulation scheme: 1 - penoplex slabs, 2 - glue, 3 - dowels, 4 - reinforcing mesh, 5 - primer, 6 - plaster coating

More about the process and material

Penoplex is a popular insulation and sound insulator these days. But after installation it sometimes has to be processed additionally

What is penoplex? The answer to this question is known to many today. This is an excellent material with decent noise insulation and thermal insulation characteristics. However, the thermal insulation parameters are comparable to polystyrene foam, although sellers and manufacturers often deny this. Of course, there are certain differences, but they are not critical. Also, it is recommended to read the material about.

You can safely plaster penoplex if this is the task. The advantage of this material is high level strength. At the same time, its surface is smooth, so the products must be plastered carefully.

This material is also actively used for basement work.

Some home craftsmen confidently declare that ordinary plaster is a suitable material and the answer to the question of how to plaster penoplex on the outside.

That is, such experiments are carried out even without using a grid.

In fact, you can do this only at your own peril and risk. Often work that has already been completed has to be started over again in order to get a good result. Even if it turns out that the composition on the surface sets, the likelihood that it will quickly become covered with cracks is high.

Delaminations and other defects are also observed. Therefore, the conclusion is simple: you don’t need to do this; you should approach the plastering process thoughtfully.

Plastering walls with your own hands using polystyrene foam video tutorial

To do this, you can use polymer plaster, which is not susceptible to exposure to the sun and does not collapse when interacting with moisture.

In addition, if the facade of the house is finished with polystyrene foam, and the insulation on top is covered with such plaster, then the surface of the walls will be resistant to frost.

Finishing with foam plastic should be carried out in parallel with the arrangement supply ventilation if there is high humidity in the house.

This will prevent the walls from becoming damp.

Walls wooden house can also be insulated with foam plastic, but it is recommended to do this work using mineral wool, since the walls of a wooden house must breathe, and the installation of foam plastic will interfere with this.

If you nevertheless decide to make external thermal insulation of a wooden house with polystyrene foam, then it is preferable to install facade polystyrene foam.

There is also a restriction on the use of polystyrene foam for facades.

Do-it-yourself thermal insulation of the facade with polystyrene foam should be done only with material that has undergone fire retardant treatment, since this material is flammable in its untreated state.

And the walls of a wooden house have an increased fire hazard, as evidenced by videos of relevant content.

Finishing must be carried out taking into account all the rules, since otherwise the work will be ineffective and the finishing will have to be done again.

If you still have questions about how to insulate a facade with foam plastic, you can watch a video that will clearly show the sequence.

Thermal insulation of facades with foam plastic does not cease to be popular over time, despite the fact that manufacturers began to make more modern materials.

This is because polystyrene foam is not so expensive and has many advantages and positive characteristics.

This finish allows you to obtain a surface that does not need to be subjected to any complex processing before applying the finishing layer. decorative materials, you don’t have to do any alignment; the video will allow you to understand this more clearly.

Finishing can be done in a short time, and then decorative processing can be done.

Reinforcement of insulation increases the rigidity of the thermal insulation system

Universal characteristics Penoplex insulation makes it indispensable for creating a reliable and effective thermal insulation system for a building. And only the best is used. To increase the effective service life of the system, it is necessary to create a reinforcing layer designed to increase rigidity, protecting the insulation boards from exposure to direct sunlight and mechanical damage. Therefore, before deciding how to putty penoplex, it is strongly recommended to purchase the necessary materials for the protective layer (reinforcement).

The use of putty for penoplex as a binder for the reinforcing layer allows you to create a uniform and smooth surface suitable for applying a layer of façade paint. Penoplex putty technology involves the use of materials intended for outdoor use.

How to putty penoplex? These can be the well-known dry mixtures TM Ceresit or products of the Finnish concern KIILTO OY. The frost- and water-resistant facade putty for penoplex offered by manufacturers is:

for primary leveling of facades with a layer thickness of up to 30 mm;
for final leveling of facades, with a layer thickness from 1 to 10 mm.

The technology for applying putty to penoplex is not very difficult:

The surface of the base made of penoplex is prepared for applying the primary façade putty on the penoplex - adhering debris and dust are removed, damaged insulation elements are replaced.
In accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, putty is prepared from a dry mixture ( façade mixture Kestonit TT) – it is recommended to use a drill with adjustable speed, as well as a construction mixer.
To create a reinforcing layer of penoplex insulation, in addition to purchasing the necessary building mixture for leveling the walls, you need to purchase a glass fiber plaster mesh for facades.
Gluing the mesh should begin from the corners of the building.
A piece of mesh, at least 30 cm wide, is folded in half along its length so that a kind of “rib” remains.
A working solution (no more than 3 mm thick) is applied to the corner of the building, and the mesh is applied in such a way that the “edge” is exactly at the corner of the building.
The facade mesh is pressed with a spatula into the layer of working solution previously applied to the penoplex, followed by smoothing - from the corner up or down.
A facade mesh cut into pieces (no more than 1 - 2 meters in length, since the solution may begin to dry out) is glued onto the putty applied to the penoplex (according to technology) and pressed into it using a plastering tool.
After gluing one strip is completed, you can apply putty to the Penoplex located nearby to continue gluing the glass fiber mesh overlapping (for reliable gluing of joints) and creating a reinforcing layer.
The solution protruding through the mesh should be smoothed so that the surface is smooth, without obvious depressions and bumps.

Which mixture is better

When choosing plaster, you should take into account its characteristics and climate conditions. Since the plaster must protect the insulation from mechanical, chemical and climatic factors, guarantee fire safety, increase heat and sound insulation characteristics, smooth out unevenness of the base, giving the room an impeccable appearance.

There are the following types of plaster mixtures:

Mineral. A mixture based on cement, sand, as well as plasticizers and adhesive additives. This good choice for use as a base coat for painting or decorative plaster . The solution is easy to apply and resistant to fire, moisture and mold. At the same time it is inexpensive.
Acrylic. Presented in the form of a solution based on acrylic resins with mineral additives and dyes. Main advantages: rich range of colors and textures, elasticity, strength, resistance to precipitation and ultraviolet radiation. Creates a dense moisture-proof film.
Silicone. It is characterized by high elasticity and strength. Universal mixture with high performance qualities, has a rich palette of colors and is offered in the form of a ready-made solution. The disadvantage is the high cost of the material.
Silicate The mixture is made on the basis of liquid glass and protects well from frost, wind, humidity and temperature changes. The composition has good vapor permeability, therefore maintaining a comfortable indoor climate. It requires efficiency in work because it sets quickly.
Silicate-silicone The plaster contains a water-repellent additive, mineral fillers and coloring pigments. Technical characteristics include increased mechanical resistance and elasticity, resistance to precipitation and good adhesion to the surface.

Plastering penoplex

Let's summarize which plasters are better. To create protection against mechanical damage and for additional thermal insulation of the building, cement-sand based plaster is suitable. But the plastered surface will be unattractive. Therefore, it will be necessary to additionally paint the facade or apply a layer of decorative plaster.

Of the above compounds, silicone will be the most durable, but also the most expensive. When choosing texture and color, only the customer’s opinion will be decisive: which finish is closer to him: “bark beetle”, imitation stone or other types.

Is it possible to glue wallpaper on top of penoplex?

Gluing wallpaper onto polystyrene foam is necessary in those places where the walls are thermally insulated from the inside.

This type of thermal insulation visually makes the room area much smaller. The technology of such insulation with penoplex is carried out in the event that it is impossible to carry out this procedure from the outside.

There are several ways to wallpaper insulating material.

During finishing procedures in various rooms, which are associated with seasonal accommodation people, you can glue wallpaper onto the surface of the insulation without preliminary preparatory work. You can use ordinary wallpaper glue.

To carry out the work more efficiently and reliably, it is necessary to carry out additional treatment of the surface of the heat-insulating layer. This is done so that irregularities, seams and much more are not noticeable.

The procedure looks like this:

First, the thermal insulator is puttyed so that the surface can be made smooth.
As soon as the putty layer is dry, apply the treatment. For this treatment, use sandpaper.
Prime the surface. The primer composition must contain antifungal elements. Thanks to this, mold will not appear on the walls.
After the primer layer has dried, use wallpaper glue to apply the backing. Thin paper is used as such a substrate.
The final stage is wallpapering.

This is the whole algorithm.

Is it possible to paint penoplex? How to paint it?

The final finish of the insulation will be more wear-resistant and aesthetically beautiful if it is subjected to the dyeing process. But be careful: not all putties benefit from staining, so read the instructions on the packaging of the putty you are using.
In the instructions you should probably find all the answers to your questions: is it possible to use paint, and what composition should the paint have in order to ideally match your putty. When choosing paint, you should also take into account the chemical characteristics of the insulation itself, since not all paint is suitable for penoplex. Only if you choose the right paint, taking into account all the nuances, will your facade be durable and of high quality.

The order of finishing work

First of all, it is necessary to level the wall as much as possible. This reduces the likelihood of thermal insulation damage due to mechanical stress. It is also recommended to pre-clean the wall surface if the facade was previously painted or is crumbling a little. To do this, you can use an ordinary spatula or brush.

Installation of insulation is carried out in this way:

The starting profile is mounted on the lower edge of the future facade;
The foam is installed from the bottom up and fixed with special glue and umbrella dowels. Sufficient quantity disc dowels determined based on a minimum of 5 pieces per sheet.
Every new row polystyrene foam boards are laid out so that the vertical seams do not coincide.
The reinforcement technology is as follows: Horizontal stripes reinforcing mesh is glued to each seam with an overlap of approximately 5-10 cm, after which it is treated with an adhesive composition. It is recommended to use a wide spatula. Any irregularities are removed with a special grater after drying.
To secure the thermal insulation at the corners, it is necessary to use special perforated devices. The fragile foam will thus be reliably protected from mechanical damage.
At the stage of finishing the exterior of the facade, putty is used or followed by painting.

Preparation of the mixture for plastering

For finishing foam plastic with plaster, the most different compositions. Building materials made by different manufacturers, it is not recommended to use when finishing facades.

Some manufacturers produce products suitable for working with polystyrene boards, containing only one mixture. For applying a plaster wall to thermal insulation and performing subsequent finishing works It is recommended to use a universal mixture.

For gluing the mesh, approximately 4 kg of mixture per m is used, and for the final finishing of the facade up to 6 kg/m is needed. During the mixing process, you must follow all the instructions provided by the manufacturer on the packaging. Many years of experience of specialists in the construction field shows that it is much more convenient to prepare a mixture whose consistency should not be as thick as the manufacturer recommends. For leveling layer plaster composition should spread over the spatula.

Having understood the technology for making the mixture, you can begin to glue the mesh to securely fix the plaster on the foam.

Features of proper plaster

When applying plaster, it is recommended to use a special trowel made of foam plastic or wood. Finishing materials are pressed against the wall and rubbed in a circular motion. The plaster must be well fixed to the smooth surface of the polystyrene foam boards. For this purpose, a special mesh is most often used, intended for finishing facade work, the density of which is 140-160 g/m. The uniformity of the applied plaster layer is largely determined by the density of the mesh. But this material is not suitable for bending. You need to start working from the corners, doorways, slopes. After this, the grouting procedure is performed using a special plastic trowel with a fairly reliable cloth, but only after the adhesive has dried.

A leveling compound is applied to a spatula, the width of which is at least 350 mm;
All this mass is evenly and carefully applied to the wall. The possible thickness of the applied layer directly depends on the quality of the pre-grouted plaster mesh;
The leveling layer is applied in several sections, the places of contact of which should not coincide with the joints of the plaster mesh.

To finish the facades of the building, silicone, silicate, mineral, or acrylic plaster is used. The quality of some materials allows them to be painted in various colors. It should be noted that the silicone lining can be cleaned with rainwater.

How to glue penoplex

When choosing a particular adhesive for fastening, it is necessary to take into account the composition and chemical properties thermal insulation product.

The most effective adhesives are:

Atlas Stopter K-20. This material has a high level of quality, so it is very often used for gluing slabs. The adhesive composition is used to restore facades. The product is also used for reinforcement. Has a high level of resistance to low temperatures and humidity. Significantly saves money.

Atlas Stopter K-20

Main article: ?

Atlas Plus. It is a universal adhesive. The main distinctive features of this product are elasticity, as well as excellent adhesion (adhesion to the surface). You can use glue on a wet surface.
Mineral glue. You can find quite a lot of similar compositions on the construction market; among others, “Sarmat” stands out, which has a reasonable price.
Polyurethane adhesive composition "Titan". The mixture does an excellent job of installing polystyrene foam boards. The composition has a fairly high price on the market.

Titanium

Compositions intended for waterproofing. A popular product is the company Uniflex, which is widely used among builders and installation workers. One such material is bitumen mastic.
Glue "Moment". This is a composite composition. Also often used for working with foam boards.

When choosing an adhesive, it is necessary to take into account that it should not contain some components in its composition. Such components include benzene, formaldehyde, formaldehyde, diesel fuel, and solvents.

When purchasing an adhesive composition, you need to take into account the stock. The base is not always smooth, so the consumption of the product becomes significantly greater. Choose a high-quality product to ensure excellent fastening of the plates to each other.

Plastering polystyrene foam boards

Plastering is done using a reinforcing mesh

Plastering foam plastic is carried out as follows:

The container is filled with water at room temperature.
Dry powder of the plaster mixture is gradually added to the water, stirring the solution with a mixer or drill with a screw attachment.
Stirring is carried out until the solution acquires a paste-like appearance.
A reinforcing mesh is fixed to the putty surface. For internal surfaces It is better to use this product made of polymer.
Metal reinforcement (chain-link mesh) is fixed to the façade walls. Metal mesh significantly increases the load-bearing capacity of the plastered surface of facade walls.
For corners, reinforced mesh is used in the form of strips 300 mm wide. For installation on corners, doors and window slopes the mesh is cut into strips about 1 m long. The mesh pieces are laid overlapping with a width of 50 mm.
The mesh is fastened with plaster in the corners in the middle of each mesh fragment.
Plastering is carried out using spatulas in two stages. First, apply the first layer of plaster to cover the mesh. After the layer has hardened, the topcoat is applied.
Open areas of the wall are plastered with a wide spatula. For hard to reach places use spatulas with a narrow blade.
The finishing solution is applied with wide semicircular movements of the spatula.
In some cases, reinforced mesh is not used for the plastered interior wall. The solution is applied directly to the putty.
To create a decorative layer, the semi-hardened surface is treated with special rollers. Various solid inclusions and coloring pigments are added to the finishing composition.
The resulting surface is rubbed with abrasive. To do this, use an angle grinder with an abrasive wheel or grout with emery. Rub the plaster in a circular motion.

Undried fragments of the coating quickly clog the abrasive, so you must make sure that the plaster has dried completely and only then begin grouting work.

Procedure for plastering work

Plastering begins from the corners. In order for the mesh to fit well on them and not come off, you must first bend it so that a trace of the bend remains, or simply purchase ready-made corners.

The mixture is applied a few mm thick, a mesh is inserted into it and secured with pressing and smoothing movements in the direction from the corners to the center of the surface.

You should not immediately stick too wide strips of mesh (more than a meter) on the wall surface itself, because

due to the speed of setting of the solution, they will not be able to be fixed well. The mesh is pressed into the mixture and secured by moving the spatula from the center to the edges. A gap of several centimeters should be left at the joints for gluing and joining. separate sheets meshes to each other.

After the first layer on which the mesh was glued has dried and sanded with a plastic float and sandpaper, a leveling layer also 2-3 mm thick is applied.

The work is carried out with two spatulas. Using a narrow spatula, spread the mixture onto a wide one, spread it onto the wall surface and level it. It is advisable that the joints of individual plastered areas do not coincide with the joints of the mesh fabrics, this way the plaster will hold more firmly.

Before you apply the leveling layer, you should allow the plaster to dry.

In dry and warm weather, a few hours may be enough for this; in cool and damp weather, at least a day will be required. But you shouldn’t delay sanding too much, otherwise the plaster will gain a lot of strength, and you’ll have to put in a lot of effort.

After sanding, you can prime the walls and apply the finishing coat.

It is important to understand that the better you plaster the foam, the longer it will last and the less problems will be delivered during operation.

Preparatory work
Installation technology

Today, more and more often, owners of private houses are finishing the facade with foam plastic, and this is not accidental. This material is easy to install, easy to process, and has little weight, so even one craftsman can handle it.

The best way to cut penoplex

During various procedures, the insulating product must be divided into certain parts that have certain dimensions. If the material simply breaks, you will get uneven edges, and it is not possible to achieve the exact size.

Based on the above, we can conclude that the best solution is cutting. You can use various tools:

Using a utility knife. Application benefits of this instrument: accessibility, no noise, speed of the process. The sharper the tool, the higher the cutting quality.

Stationery knife

Read also -.

Using an electric jigsaw. The downside is getting edges that are uneven. But the speed of performing this work is the maximum possible. Electric jigsaw slabs of different thicknesses can be used.

Electric jigsaw

A kitchen knife can be used. Be sure to sharpen the kitchen knife thoroughly before starting the cutting procedure. Next, the selected tool should be heated. A hot knife does a much better job of cutting. Pros of using a kitchen knife: no debris and smooth edges.
Nichrome wire. It is used for figure cutting. It is necessary to connect the wires to a 24V transformer. When electric current is applied, the tool heats up.

One of the distinctive features thermal insulation products is ease of installation. To do this, you do not need to have any specific knowledge or extensive experience as an installer.

No, you shouldn't do this. There are special plaster mixtures for polystyrene foam and related polystyrene materials. Although they contain cement, they also contain special additives that ensure a strong connection to the surface of the foam.

To ensure that the plaster adheres well to the surface of the foam plastic, a plaster mesh is used.

The denser the mesh is used, the smoother the plastered surface will be, but also the more difficult it is to paste over corners and bends.

The mixture is diluted in accordance with the instructions and proportions indicated on the package. You shouldn’t violate the manufacturers’ recommendations, but if anything, it’s better to make the mixture too liquid rather than too thick, because this way the mesh will stick better to the surface of the foam.

It is important to use plaster from the same manufacturer throughout the entire work. . Due to possible differences in composition, reactions between products different brands can be unpredictable

Due to possible differences in formulations, reactions between products of different brands may be unpredictable.

Specifically, what is the best way to plaster over polystyrene foam? The most popular products from the following manufacturers:

Is it possible to putty penoplex?

Putty is the finishing of walls using special putty mixtures. Most often, acrylic or powder putty intended for facade work is used for this work.

What types of finishing putties are there?

All putties have proven themselves to be the best trademark Ceresit, but if you trust another manufacturer, then you can use putties from another company. The putty should be selected based on the surface it will be applied to. For plastering walls there are: powder mixtures, and pasty. Paste mixtures, in turn, are divided into acrylic, adhesive, silicone, latex, oil and combination. For penoplex, acrylic putty and powdered putty have proven themselves well.

When choosing a putty mixture for facade work, first of all, you need to pay attention to the binders contained in it and how high quality these substances are. Depending on the quality of the binding element, the putty can be very resistant or, conversely, unstable to various weather conditions: cold, damp, heat, frost.
So, for example, if you subsequently plan to paint the facade, then you can use good quality putty Ceresit CT-225, which is a good base for painting and has such qualities as frost resistance, impact resistance and moisture resistance

By choosing a high-quality putty, you can be sure that over time your finish will not crack or crumble.

Also, when choosing putty for your facade, consult with the seller so that he can help you choose the one that is moisture resistant and not afraid of temperature changes, otherwise you will simply waste money and time on exterior work

It is important to remember that those putties that are intended for interior works, are completely unsuitable for the facade, so you shouldn’t save money so that you don’t have to redo the work.

The process of applying putty to the wall. Preparing the putty

If you decide to use powder putty, then first you should dilute it. To do this, fill a bucket with water (a little less than half) and carefully add the powder, stirring continuously with a mixer. The consistency should be approximately similar to mashed potatoes.
After the mixture reaches the desired consistency, it should be left for 5 minutes in a calm state, and then beat again and you can start working. Acrylic plaster is applied to the wall immediately without prior preparation.

The process of applying putty to the wall

To apply the putty, you should use a very wide spatula, on which the mixture is placed using a small, narrow spatula that fits freely in a bucket. When finishing, it is very important that each new finishing area merges with the previous, previously puttied one. The joints should be almost invisible, so if you are not confident in your skills, it is better to invite a specialist for this work who will do everything quickly and efficiently.

Before applying putty, do not forget to treat the wall with a special primer, which will provide additional waterproofing. The layer of putty applied should not exceed 5 ml; after it has completely dried, the entire surface should be grouted. Rubbing should be done in a counterclockwise circular motion, using an abrasive mesh. Do not forget that grouting should be done no earlier than 3-4 hours after applying the mixture. Having finished grouting, you need to apply the primer again, this will help get rid of dust particles on the surface of the walls and make the surface of the facade perfectly smooth.

Once the primer has dried, the next process of work begins - painting.

Paint selection

Some facade paints capable of destroying penoplex, so the choice should be made based primarily on physical and chemical characteristics insulation and paint.

Which paints should you not choose?

Paints that contain the following substances are not suitable for penoplex: benzene, toluene, xylene, acetone, coal and polyester tars, gasoline, kerosene, drying oil.

When painting penoplex, never use solvents such as acetone, kerosene, gasoline, white spirit, all these substances practically corrode the insulation.

Paints intended for penoplex
1. Mineral paints. They contain lime and cement, which are absolutely safe for insulation, and therefore they can and should be used. Mineral paints do not contain any of the harmful substances, so that the finishing of the facade of the building will not be affected at all.
2. Facade material, containing silicate glass as its base. The composition of this material also does not pose any threat to the finishing of the building and, of course, to the insulation.
3. Water-based paint for external work. Paints in this category are also not prohibited for penoplex; the only nuance that is worth remembering when choosing water-based paint is that it should be intended specifically for facade work, only in this case will it have high stability to humidity and other weather influences.

Water-based paints have the following advantages:

One of the most significant advantages is their environmental friendliness.

They are completely safe for the human body, so no additional precautions are required when working with them;
- the surface covered with them has increased resistance to aggressive environmental factors;
- have a water-repellent effect;
- are resistant to stains;
- low level of water absorption, this advantage is also a very significant factor when choosing paint for penoplex;
- large assortment color range, which makes it possible to paint the facade of the house in any color and shade;
- low cost. Thanks to this advantage, water-based paints are becoming more popular;
- the ratio of price and quality is also a decisive factor when choosing paint

Important! If you decide to carry out the work of plastering, puttying and painting a facade insulated with penoplex yourself, do not forget about all the recommendations given in this article, or consult with a specialist who will certainly help you choose mixtures, paint and putty that meet all the necessary requirements.

Video “Plastering on penoplex”

Finishing mixture

The second layer is necessary to complete the alignment of the wall and hide all auxiliary elements, such as reinforcement. The third layer is possible if the quality of the second for some reason does not please the master. But this is only a “rough” finishing before the final stage - the final surface design. The last stage is usually performed using decorative plaster. If the surface was made uneven, then normal installation of the “decoration” is out of the question.

Facade plaster using penoplex

Table. Necessary tools and materials.

Applying the structure.

Penoplex plaster is applied in two stages. The first involves creating a leveling layer. For this, a universal solution is used.
You will need a wide spatula, thirty-five centimeters wide or more. Plus a small tool that is used to apply the material to the insulation.
It is recommended to make the thickness of the solution approximately three millimeters. The mixture is applied in parts: first one fragment of the wall is finished, then the next

It is important that the joints of the leveling layer and the mesh do not coincide with each other.

After it has been applied and allowed to dry for at least one day, it is rubbed off. The time interval from applying the solution to its grouting should not be more than four days, otherwise the mixture will become too hard and it will be difficult to grout.
The quality of the grout should be as good as possible, because a textured or decorative material will be applied to this surface.

After grouting, it is primed. A roller wrapped in short-pile material is used.
This is necessary for strong adhesion of the finishing layer to the surface. The type of primer depends on what kind of coating is planned. Compositions containing quartz particles are suitable for decorative mixtures. If the wall is to be painted, then the primer needs to be as uniform in consistency as possible, without inclusions.

Plaster works on plastic foam

Reinforcement – process, aimed at obtaining additional or improving existing properties of a material or product. Let's consider the reinforcement of a material such as polystyrene foam. To understand why it is necessary to reinforce foam plastic, let’s remember: what kind of material is it? Foam plastic is a plastic mass obtained by foaming polystyrene granules.

In the construction sector, foam plastic is used for finishing facades and for insulating premises for all types of operational use. To extend the life of foam plastic without losing its physical and chemical properties, it is often necessary to make the surface of foam sheets smoother, harder, and suitable for finishing. This is where reinforcement comes in. In the first case, when we need a smoother surface of the foam sheets, we putty the sheets.

How do we putty the foam? For puttying polystyrene foam, retail chains offer a wide range of mixtures that have the same basic properties, but also differ in composition and places of application (for rooms with high or low humidity, etc.), it follows that for puttying foam plastic, the putty mixture must be selected taking into account the conditions operation of the premises.

How to putty polystyrene foam if you need to apply a layer of wallpaper later? In this case, it is necessary to select a putty with a high adhesion coefficient (adhesion - from the Latin word - sticking, that is, the ability of a substance to adhere to the surface to which it is applied).

A good putty will extend the life of the foam sheet for many years. Construction technologists calculated that reinforced foam can retain its performance properties for more than a hundred years. How to putty foam if you need to paint the surface of the foam?

When choosing paint and putty for foam plastic yourself, you can make a mistake, so you should listen to the advice of experienced builders.

Conclusion: when selecting materials for reinforcing the surface of foam plastic, you should make sure of their compatibility. The following mixtures are popular among finishing craftsmen for puttying polystyrene foam: Master, Polymin, Ceresit and others. In addition to putty mixtures, you will need mesh or fiberglass. Mesh and fiberglass are selected taking into account the thickness and purpose of the putty or plaster layers. Another option: you need to make the surface of the foam harder.

How to make the fragile surface of polystyrene foam hard? Naturally, in this case, a technological process of reinforcement will be required.

How will we reinforce the surface of the foam to make it hard?

Mixtures for plastering: types and advantages

Decorative plaster is used to cover penoplex. It happens:

Acrylic;
mineral;
silicone;
silicate.

Acrylic mixture

Acrylic plaster is an artificial polymer raw material; it contains mineral filler, coloring pigments, various additives, and acrylic mixtures. The composition is rich color scheme, the widest choice textures, reasonable price and excellent technical characteristics - elastic, durable, vapor permeable, moisture resistant, etc.

Mineral composition

Facade mineral plaster is a bestseller. The mixture consists of crushed granite or marble, Portland cement, and lime. The components give the plaster excellent technical specifications. However, the color palette cannot boast of an abundance of shades. Well, at least it's inexpensive.

Silicone mixture

Silicone-based plaster is ideally applied to both facades and interior walls. It is durable, safe, biologically inert, durable and odorless. In addition, it is indispensable when working with the cellular structure of penoplex. It is also available in a wide range of colors and a huge variety of textures. But its price bites.

Silicate composition

Plaster based on it is not afraid of fungi, germs, snow, rain, frost, heat, dirt. It does not succumb to the vagaries of climatic, chemical, thermal, mechanical factors. However, the color palette is poor, but the price is reasonable.

Each composition is good in its own way. Don’t forget that properly plastered walls, insulated with penoplex, will delight the eye for many years!

How to plaster outside and inside a room step by step instructions

The plastering process is not particularly difficult, but must be carried out in compliance with technology.

To work you will need tools:

container mixer spatulas corner perforated arm. mesh grater tray and roller

Required materials :

glue primer plaster

Preparing the base

Blow out the seams between the plates with foam;
After hardening, cut off excess foam with a knife and rub in with a grater;
Deepen the dowel heads. If you can’t drive them in, then you need to cut off the cap and drive another dowel next to it, making a hole for it in advance;
Upon completion of the work, treat the walls with a deep penetration primer.

Mesh reinforcement

Cover the dowel heads and cavities in the insulation.
Attach aluminum perforated corners to the outer corners.
Cut the fiberglass mesh, taking into account that the fabric will be mounted overlapping each other.
Cover the base adhesive composition 3-5 mm thick and attach a mesh. Level it with a wide spatula, pressing it into the plaster.
Apply another layer of adhesive on top of the reinforcement.
Rub the dried reinforcement layer with a grater in a circular motion, without excessive zeal and with equal pressure.

Plastering penoplex

After reinforcement, you can begin to plaster the walls of the room. Using a small spatula, apply the mixture onto a large construction spatula, apply it to the wall and level it. The layer thickness should be 3-5 mm.
After drying, you need to sand it again until you get a smooth surface.
To get rid of increased dampness and mold, apply two coats of primer at intervals of 3-4 hours, using a short-nap roller.
After the soil has dried, decorative plaster is applied with a wide spatula. To create texture on the wall, relief rollers and stamps are used. The choice of tool depends on the type of mixture. For example, pebble plaster can be simply leveled with a trowel. A “fur coat” is created on the wall using a roller.
If the tinting of the solution was not done before applying it to the wall, then it is painted after drying.
When plastering indoors with a gypsum-based mixture, the walls can additionally be treated with a special varnish.

Application of façade plaster should be carried out under favorable weather conditions:

air humidity - 65-70%;
optimal temperature indicators in the range from 5 to 25 degrees above zero;
no strong wind.

It is advisable to perform plastering on foam plastic immediately after the seams have dried. The longer the insulation is exposed to atmospheric influences, the lower its thermal insulation properties. Moreover, such a house cannot be left unfinished for the entire winter.

Plastering should be done in dry, warm weather and on a dry surface. The presence of moisture, dust, and greasy stains on the foam negatively affects the adhesion of the plaster to the base, as a result of which the coating very soon falls off in pieces.

When mixing the solution, strictly follow the proportions and do not add anything other than water. Factory mixtures already contain all the necessary components, and the presence of foreign impurities will only worsen the quality of the plaster. Also follow the specified application thickness - it is better to do 2 thin layers than one thick one.

Plastered surface

Decorative plaster can give a house a unique exterior

Video - Facade plaster on polystyrene foam

Video - Plastering slopes using foam plastic

Plastering penoplex

Penoplex plaster has a certain technology. If these steps are performed correctly, we will get an excellent result. So, the order is:

Preparing the solution
Installation of reinforcing mesh;
Grouting the surface;
Padding;
Surface leveling;
Grout.

Preparing the mixture

Usually the manufacturer indicates the consumption on the packaging. But on average you can calculate it using the formula:

When reinforcing, you need about 4 kg of mixture per 1 square meter;
For leveling - 6 kg per 1 square meter.

These figures also depend on the thickness of the plaster layer: the thicker the layer, the greater the consumption.

Advice from the expert: To glue the reinforcing mesh, make the solution thinner than indicated on the package. And for leveling, the solution should have the consistency of jelly.

Installation of reinforcing mesh

The use of reinforcing mesh for penoplex plaster is a prerequisite for high-quality finishing of insulation. Otherwise, after drying, the solution will crack and fall off.

Applying plaster

After the solution has dried, we begin grouting. This work can be done in a day, not earlier. Rub the surface until smooth.

Possibility of finishing with penoplex

The basis of penoplex is simple polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam. In the process of processing foam plastic using a special thermal method, it acquires the following characteristics:

High strength, which is several times greater than conventional foam.
Smooth coating and uniform structure.
Almost complete absence of moisture absorption.
High level of vapor permeability.

Penoplex has a low level of adhesion compared to polystyrene foam. In this regard, it would be a mistake to putty such material using conventional technology. This will cause the putty to lag behind the insulation and reinforcing mesh. Although penoplex is not intended for cladding wet method, its plastering is still possible. Experts have developed a finishing technology that allows you to achieve high-quality results and guarantees high strength.

Let's sum it up

Penoplex is laid between the base and the cladding

Each reader was personally convinced that penoplex is easy to putty - it is unlikely that anyone will have any difficulties here. However, you need to be able to handle a hammer, spatula and other similar tools, or at least have some experience in interacting with them. It is also recommended to follow the sequence described above - if you want to get quality and not repeated repairs.

More details the process of penoplex plastering is described in a thematic video:

If, after studying the article, there are still some unclear parts or questions arise, the video material will definitely give the answer and help in solving difficulties. The main thing is to believe in own strength and everything will definitely work out!

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