How to properly insulate silicate brick walls. Insulation of the facade of a brick house using modern methods. Insulation with mineral wool

Reliable thermal insulation helps reduce heat loss and create comfortable conditions in a brick building. Insulating a house from sand-lime brick This is necessary and is due to the instability of the material to moisture. Additional thermal insulation corrects this drawback. Insulation is selected depending on the type of brick and type of masonry.

How are they insulated?

Moisture absorption and moisture permeability of structures in buildings made of sand-lime brick is eliminated by insulating them. Besides, thermal insulation keeps the house warm in winter and cool in summer. The insulation of walls depends on them. There are two types of insulation:

  • from the inside;
  • outside.

Internal insulation of structures in houses made of sand-lime brick is rarely done, since the dew point moves inward, which contributes to the formation of condensation on the walls and requires installation effective system ventilation. In addition, the slopes, floor and ceiling will need to be insulated. The insulation can be basalt slabs made of fiber and foam glass.

To insulate walls from the inside, use only environmentally friendly safe materials with low flammability to avoid the release of harmful substances into the room.


Otherwise, the house can be insulated with polystyrene foam.

The outside of sand-lime brick is insulated using the following materials:

  • mineral wool;
  • Styrofoam;
  • polyurethane;
  • expanded polystyrene.

Material calculation

To effectively insulate a house and avoid moving the dew point inward, you need to correctly calculate the thickness of the insulation. The thickness of the material depends on its thermal resistance. The average indicator of this value for walls in private and multi-storey buildings should be at least 3.5. The lower the thermal resistance of the wall, the thicker the layer of insulation material will be. The calculation is performed using the formula: R=d/k, where d is the thickness of the material, k is the thermal conductivity coefficient. Indicators k are a constant value and are given in the table.

For polyurethane foam, you need to calculate the thickness of the insulation.

For example, calculate the thickness of a layer of polyurethane foam to insulate a structure made of sand-lime brick with a thickness of 0.5 m. First, determine the thermal resistance of the wall: R = 0.5/0.7 = 0.71. This indicator is calculated for polyurethane foam: R (p) = 3.5-0.71 = 2.79. The insulation layer is found using the formula: d = R (p) x k = 2.79 × 0.02 = 0.0558 m. Thus, the polyurethane foam layer must be at least 55 mm.

Brick is a traditional material for private construction. But unlike a tree, it necessarily requires high-quality insulation. If this is not done, then life in the house is unlikely to be pleasant and comfortable, especially during the cold season.

Peculiarities

Insulation brick house represents a large complex of works. It is not enough to perform them only on the walls of the facade; you will need to carry out certain manipulations with the roof, other walls, base and floor. You should definitely take into account what specific type of brick was used, how the masonry was made, and in what climatic region the construction or repair is being carried out.

It will not be possible to insulate solid blocks from the outside using the same method that is suitable for parts with air cavities. The method of laying (continuous or providing an internal air gap) is also important.

When assessing thermal conductivity, you cannot rely only on tabular indicators that can be found on the Internet or in specialized literature. Technologies are changing rapidly, and each manufacturer is trying to introduce their own know-how, vary the recipe and processing modes. Therefore, you should only rely on official information from suppliers.

If you plan to lay the brick in a continuous layer, the insulation can be placed on one side or on both sides at once. The use of facade panels and intra-wall insulation of hollow masonry have their own subtleties.

Best materials

The thermal conductivity coefficient is a decisive indicator for any thermal insulation material. It is equal to the thermal energy that passes through 100 cm of coating in 60 minutes. Based only on this parameter, it is best to cover brick wall expanded polystyrene and mineral wool.

But other nuances need to be taken into account, because if a material holds heat well, this does not mean that it is suitable for everyone possible cases. It is very important to pay attention to the intensity of moisture absorption - depending on this indicator, no material can compare with extruded polystyrene foam.

The same method of protection is also the most dense among all. If we take into account flammability (minimum class G1 - combustion stops after the fire ceases), then EPS and polystyrene foam are in approximately equal positions. It is not always possible to use expanded clay; it is only suitable for houses with well masonry.

Such thermal protection is created very simply, but over time it can become heterogeneous, which negatively affects the characteristics. Drywall can be used for insulation only indoors, because manufacturers’ claims about the resistance of some options to high humidity should not be taken seriously.

Using polystyrene, including penoplex, is relatively simple. Large slabs are sometimes equipped with a tongue-and-groove system; they can be glued from the base profile. This solution is suitable for siding, but few people will be satisfied with the level of permeability of the finishing layer for steam. If you still want to choose just such insulation, it is worth equipping the top with a full-fledged ventilated façade.

You can lay penoplex in the most different ways. A typical sheet is 600 mm wide and 1.2 or 2.4 m long. different modifications The sheet thickness varies from 20 to 100 mm. Among all versions, the “Facade” modification deservedly takes first place, specially designed for finishing and thermal protection of capital external walls.

Some amateur builders choose to insulate brick walls with aerated concrete blocks. Such a measure is recommended if there is a suitable support point and the entire structure is thought out very well. It is worthwhile in advance, in the process of preparing the load-bearing wall, to install fiberglass reinforcement in the form of releases.

Use expanded clay concrete for thermal protection brick structures not worth it, since its thermal qualities are not good enough. Insulating a wall made of sand-lime brick with basalt wool is justified because it lasts a long time and is a completely natural solution. Instead of the loose or rolled version, it is best to take cotton wool slabs; they are considered the most reliable.

They began insulating houses with granulated foam glass back in the 1930s, but then it was very expensive and not very practical. The porosity of such a material obtained by modern technology, ranges from 80 to 95%. Coloring depends on what specific raw materials were used. Despite its lightness, the compression resistance of this material is very high, and the loss of heat to the outside is noticeably faster than even wood.

The advantage of foam glass is excellent damping of external noise; but we must not forget that it is quite expensive and can be destroyed by mechanical stress.

Characteristics

Standard thickness insulation for brick walls is determined using simple formulas. It is better to focus on the standard of thermal resistance established for a specific region of the country. The second indispensable parameter for an accurate calculation is the thermal resistance of the main load-bearing surfaces, and the third is the same, but for thermal protection.

A half-brick wall is assumed to be 12 cm, one brick - 24 cm, and for a three-layer structure the calculation is carried out at a thickness of 0.8 m. A three-layer structure is a very rare and rather expensive option. The main part of the structures is made of one or one and a half bricks, and if there are less than three blocks, then throughout the entire post-Soviet territory it is impossible to do without insulation. This rule also applies to the coast of the Black and Azov Seas.

A common mistake is to insulate walls from the inside; it leads to condensation and other negative phenomena. For siding or ventilated facades, mineral or glass wool with a density of at least 40 kg and 17 kg per 1 cubic meter is most often used. m. respectively. When it is planned to insulate the walls with decorative bricks, it will be necessary to strengthen the foundation by adding mortar.

Whether the wall, after finishing with insulation, will be permeable to water vapor or not depends on the personal preferences of the owners. An exception is made only for the steam room, where the release of fumes to the outside is mandatory.

Which to choose?

Having familiarized yourself with the basic information on insulating materials, it is easy to understand that their choice cannot be dictated solely by financial considerations. An attempt to save money on insulation only results in additional costs during the operation of the building. Please note that depending on the option chosen, the following changes:

  • composition of the required hand tools;
  • types of machinery used;
  • list of components;
  • sequence of work;
  • execution of the foundation.

A very light base will easily withstand the load created by the foamed polymer, but if ceramic granules are used, it will no longer be reliable. You also need to pay attention to whether external decorative finishing or the thermal protection parts themselves will turn out to be quite attractive in design.

If you need to install siding, facing bricks or plaster, you will also need adhesives, fasteners, geotextiles, and so on. This circumstance will significantly complicate the work. You should carefully separate materials for internal and external insulation.

In the second case, the requirements for environmental safety much less, but the danger of the destructive effects of moisture and wind increases. External insulation is preferable for another reason: they allow you to leave all load-bearing wall in the area of ​​positive temperatures and completely eliminate its freezing.

Application of internal insulation materials becomes mandatory in the following cases:

  • by decision of state supervisory authorities, this is the only way to do it;
  • immediately behind the wall there was an unheated Utility room(this is not relevant for the facade of the house);
  • very severe frosts are likely, which require the most intense protection of the habitable space.

Mineral wool, while not bad in itself, quickly becomes saturated with water. Therefore, you will need to cover it from the outside with waterproof films. If you want to make the thinnest “pie” possible, you should pay attention to extruded polymer mixtures, because they are almost impervious to moisture and are characterized by increased strength. When assessing flammability, it is recommended to compare actual figures material with the requirements established by the fire department.

The advantage of roll and sheet coverings over liquid options is that they can be easily installed even by non-professionals who do not have specialized tools.

Current technologies

The best solution is not to look suitable option among all possible approaches to insulation in principle, and focus on modern methods. They fully meet all regulatory requirements and, in addition, have incorporated concentrated centuries of experience. There are two key areas that are most in demand now:

  • Sandwich format. Fully finished walls install a frame (made of wood or metal) into which insulation is placed. Superimposed on the frame from the outside decorative material. The advantage of this method is its high strength and reliability, but the foundation of the building must also be strong and solid.
  • "Wet façade" The insulation is glued with special mixtures, then it is covered with a reinforcing mesh and finishing. It is worth paying attention that polystyrene foam will be correctly mounted as a substrate for vinyl siding and other finishing materials.

The fastening method when choosing a “wet facade” is approximately the same as when working with foam plastic, namely:

  • the first step is to clean the walls from dirt, dust and plaster;
  • large cracks are covered with putty, and the surface as a whole should be covered with a layer of primer;
  • is put starting profile, it is secured around the perimeter using dowel nails. Be sure to check horizontal lines with a building level;
  • in addition to gluing polystyrene foam, sometimes it is attached with anchors or special pastes;
  • fastening in the central part of the panels using dowel-nails increases the rigidity of the structure;
  • slab joints need to be sealed polyurethane foam, and take a reinforcing mesh that is not destroyed by acids and alkalis.

If well masonry is being made, roll materials can be used to waterproof it from the inside. The actual insulation is carried out by filling with special reagents - lightweight concrete, slag, expanded clay and some others. The material must be compacted every 50 cm.

Much attention should be paid to insulating the corners, and the effect of a thermos should be achieved. It is recommended to study carefully chemical composition the coating being installed or the mixture poured inside, in order to be completely confident in their safety and reliability.

How to do self-installation?

Calculations

Even the most modern methods of insulating brick walls are available to ordinary people. The main condition for their use is an accurate and competent design calculation. Only it allows you to simultaneously guarantee heat retention inside and minimum expenses to carry out work. In many cases, the simplest and most effective solution is to insulate walls with extruded polystyrene foam. Calculating the required indicators is quite simple.

For example, a wall is lined with full-weight bricks, each 30 cm thick. Heat transfer resistance is determined by dividing this thickness by the thermal conductivity of the material. This results in the difference between the normatively prescribed and actual thermal resistance.

Now you need to multiply this difference by the thermal conductivity coefficient of the selected insulation. The calculated result must, if necessary, be rounded to a whole value (since roll and slab thermal insulation is produced in multiples of 1 cm in thickness).

When several layers are used at once, their energy characteristics must be added together to avoid errors.

Insulation also has its own subtleties end wall in a house or apartment. IN apartment buildings such manipulation is rarely carried out externally, since it is very expensive and impractical. This must be preceded by a thorough search for possible cold bridges. As in other cases, it is recommended to use polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or basalt-based materials.

Sequence of work

Ceramic brick not only insulates the facade, but also looks attractive and serves reliably. But this is carried out only on the condition that the masonry is done according to the rules, its seams are completely even and not dirty. The slightest cracks or stains of mortar on the blocks are unacceptable. The mixture for fixing the masonry is formed with M-400 cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 3.

It is worth noting that river sand cannot be taken, because it leads to rapid shrinkage of the solution if a plasticizer is not added. It is not at all necessary to create a classic gray seam: a wide variety of pigments are readily sold in sets with facing bricks.

The first step in the process will be preparing the waterproofing. For it they take either roofing material or thick polyethylene. Laying begins from the corners, leaving an air gap to the main wall (40–50 mm). The prepared solution should be relatively dense, but not too heavy for working with a trowel. A metal rod with a cross-section of 8x8 to 12x12 mm is placed on the front edges of the masonry.

Next to it, the solution should be level, and on the back side - about 1 cm higher. A vertical seam is created in a similar way. All stripes will need to be rubbed with a small brush after 120–180 minutes, covering any holes or nicks that are found. This will prevent water from getting inside from the external environment.

Energy saving programs are gaining popularity, and many are thinking about optimal option for their home. How to insulate sand-lime brick? Which insulation options are better: outside or inside? What features of brick should be taken into account when choosing insulation?

Insulation for a house made of sand-lime brick must be selected based on the type of construction and type of masonry.

Insulation of walls should begin with an examination of their features, the type of masonry that was used during construction. So that home insulation suits everyone modern requirements, you need to take into account the following parameters:

  1. Brick shape. This indicator directly affects thermal conductivity, on which the required level of insulation will depend.
  2. Type of brick. For example, for m-150 sand-lime brick, a minimum insulating layer is sufficient.
  3. Type of masonry. The thickness of the wall and its need for insulation will depend on this indicator.

Expert advice! If the house has solid masonry, then it needs to be insulated inside and outside; if hollow masonry is used, then the material is laid only inside the walls.

What insulation materials are available on the construction market

Today the chain of construction supermarkets offers wide choose materials for insulating walls made of silicate bricks. They all have their own characteristics that need to be known and taken into account in order for the insulation of the house to be of high quality and reliable.

  1. Mineral wool.

Despite the fact that this material has been used for a long time, it has not lost its popularity. Buyers prefer it for:

  • optimal price;
  • ease of installation;
  • light weight;
  • environmental safety;
  • long period of operation;
  • complete absence of an environment for the reproduction of rodents, fungus and mold.

Among the disadvantages of the material, the following indicators are distinguished:

  • rapid absorption of moisture;
  • easily ignites;
  • does not retain its shape during deformation processes.
  1. Styrofoam.

Many experts suggest insulating sand-lime bricks using polystyrene foam. Its thermal conductivity coefficient is slightly lower than that of mineral wool. But among the advantages we can highlight the following:

  • the material is resistant to moisture;
  • easy to install, no special tools required;
  • a light weight;
  • environmental Safety.
Polystyrene foam has special water-repellent properties.

If a decision has been made to insulate a sand-lime brick house with polystyrene foam, then you need to know that it easily ignites and releases toxic substances when burned. There have been many cases where a fire ignites and spreads instantly, and the owners only have time to save their lives.

Expert advice! Today construction market offers the new kind polystyrene foam, which has improved characteristics and greater fire protection.

  1. Expanded clay.

This material can be used to insulate a house during the construction stage. It is added to cement mortar, which will be used when pouring floors and plastering walls. Expanded clay has a lot of advantages that make it popular in the construction market:

  • minimum weight;
  • environmental Safety;
  • mice do not gnaw it, fungus and mold do not develop in it;
  • It has high performance heat and sound insulation;
  • does not react with moisture, so it is ideal for the bathroom, kitchen, and toilet.

Among the main disadvantages is the high degree of dust emission.

  1. Polyurethane foam.

It is increasingly recommended to insulate a house made of sand-lime brick with polyurethane foam, since this material has the highest thermal insulation and strength. The material itself can be used in the form of slabs or sprayed onto walls. Polyurethane foam requires additional finishing, preferably with fire-resistant mixtures.


The main disadvantage is the high cost.

  1. Warm plaster.

This material provides the room with the highest thermal insulation values. Using warm plaster you can easily cover sand-lime brick. Among the main advantages are the following:

  • the walls have high levels of heat, noise and sound insulation;
  • the material is not subject to combustion;
  • does not absorb moisture.

The main disadvantage that prevents the material from gaining popularity is the cost and methods of application to the walls. Warm plaster is applied using special automated equipment. Only a professional team has such systems, which will charge a lot of money for the work.


In addition, the maximum layer of plaster is up to 5 centimeters. The large mass of the layer that is applied to the wall requires the construction of a massive foundation or additional strengthening of an existing one.

  1. Fiberglass.

This material has excellent characteristics and is recommended by many experts. The main thing that everyone needs to remember is that this material should be installed only by professionals. It is toxic, therefore, if installed incorrectly, it can harm the health of not only the worker, but also everyone who will live in such a house.

  1. Ecowool.

It is used only for internal insulation. The material has optimal thermal conductivity and quickly absorbs moisture.

Insulating the house from the outside

How to insulate a house made of sand-lime brick must be decided individually in each specific case.


If the house has been built and is functioning for a long time, then the insulation of the walls will be external. This type will protect the structure of the house from precipitation and sudden temperature changes, while the dew point will move closer to the insulation. Such insulation of the house makes it possible to increase the service life of the entire building.

Mineral wool, polystyrene foam, polyurethane, and expanded polystyrene are suitable for external insulation. Sand-lime brick covered with insulation must be additionally plastered or covered with facade panels.

Before you insulate the house from the outside, you need to carry out horizontal waterproofing foundation. For these purposes, you can use waterproofing or roofing felt. Unfortunately, the latest material does not have long term services. The installed waterproofing layer should not be on the walls of the first floor.

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=AeHkQ5_I8ME

How to insulate a house from the inside

For sand-lime bricks, insulating walls from the inside is considered only in the most urgent cases. In addition to the fact that the premises will be taken away effective area, when insulating walls from the inside, the dew point changes, it moves inward. This causes the formation of condensation on the walls, which can only be eliminated after installing a productive ventilation system.


If a decision has been made to insulate the house from the inside, then it is necessary to use the material not only for the walls, but also on the ceiling, floor, and slopes. If you do not carry out such work, then there will be places in the house where freezing will appear.

When choosing a material for insulating sand-lime bricks from the inside, you must first of all pay attention to environmental safety indicators. When heated, all components will be released into the room, which can be harmful to human health.

When insulating sand-lime brick from the inside, you do not need to use a vapor barrier.

It is enough to cover the material with plaster. If there is a need for additional fixation of the insulation, then reinforcing mesh can be used.

When choosing a material for insulation, you should pay attention to the indicators fire safety. All walls inside the house are equipped big amount wires, various devices, which may catch fire.

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=02Z2ZHcoUpY

Insulating a house made of sand-lime brick is a necessary and important process that will help save the family’s heating budget, create coziness, comfort, optimal temperature throughout the house. Only an informed choice of material will ensure the desired result for each specific home.

Hello! My husband and I bought a house built in 1976 from white sand-lime brick, in which no one had lived for 7 years. The windows are boarded up, the roof is slate, and in the attic there is probably slag and residue (from operating the stove) as insulation. We bought it last October and started right away. major renovation rooms. They drilled a well, brought water into the house, and made a septic tank. Heating - convectors. Plastic windows were installed. The area is wet, groundwater close, 50-60 cm near the house, and 20-30 cm on the site. The house is located on a hill relative to the site. During the inspection of the house before purchasing, we took into account the fact that the house is dry, the floors are not rotten, but this is apparently due to the constant ventilation of the clogged windows. The wall pie is like this: a brick, a brick-wide void and again a brick. There is no insulation in the void. The foundation, as it turned out later, is only 20 cm high, the base is 10 cm. Between the base and the masonry is either bitumen or mastic, i.e. Waterproofing seems to be present. In some places there was a blind area, in others there was not. The walls were lined with moisture-resistant plasterboard from the inside, and on some walls they glued them directly to the walls, having previously treated them with an antibacterial solution against fungus; on other walls, first the profiles, then the GC, to align the angles at 90 degrees. When the first room was sheathed, puttied, the corners began to get damp, then no one lived in the house, only the repairman came, there was little heating and they were guilty of the fact that the house had not yet warmed up, it was January. THEN the repairman made in each wall at a height of 20 cm round holes, for ventilation. And the dampness has gone, only the blowing through these holes is not bad, especially when closing the door. This room was covered by April vinyl wallpaper and moved in to live. In the summer, on cool days, we slowly turned on the convectors and heated the house. But it was still somehow humid. Now they've moved the furniture away, and the wall behind the sofa is wet, the sofa is standing next to outer wall, pulled the drawers out of the wall - and there was mold on the bottom of the drawers. How to deal with this? Tell! When installing the floors, they did the following: they removed the old wooden floors, laid down a film, poured a screed, laid 5cm foam plastic, a reinforcing mesh, again a screed, a film, a backing for the laminate, a laminate. Wet walls are only in the place where the furniture is close to the wall, the closet is 2 cm away - the wall is dry, but the things in the closet are wet. In the summer, they dug up the house and poured concrete around the perimeter to reinforce the foundation, 40 cm wide and 50 cm deep. Is it possible to insulate the house from the outside with polystyrene foam, or will this not solve the moisture problem? The walls are all crooked, they thought they would somehow be leveled with polystyrene foam to match the plaster. Help with advice!

Content

Brick is a classic material for building a house, designed to last for many decades of use. The thermal conductivity of brick walls depends on its thickness - the number of rows of masonry. If a wall in a brick house freezes in the first winter after construction, this means that the construction technology has been violated or the thickness of the enclosing structures is insufficient. In this case, it is necessary to resolve the issue of thermal insulation of the external walls of the building. Priority should be given to external insulation, but its installation is not always possible. Let's look at how to insulate brick house from the inside, what materials are preferable to use and how to properly perform the installation of thermal insulation.

How to insulate internal brick walls of a house Features of wall insulation

Human activity is associated with a large release of heat and moisture. Bodies radiate heat Appliances. Moisture is released during breathing, during cooking, using water for hygiene procedures, washing dishes, and watering flowers. And the warmer the air, the better it retains moisture.

If the walls are not insulated enough, condensation will form on them when the heated, humid air cools. It will provoke the development of fungus, and on the surface of the walls and ceiling there will be dark spots. Fungal spores are harmful to human health - they enter the respiratory system, causing asthma attacks or allergic reaction. In addition, mold has a destructive effect on the materials from which the walls are built and irreparably damages the finish.


Wall with and without insulation

Before insulating the walls of a brick house from the inside, it is advisable to understand how this will affect the operating conditions of the external walls and the microclimate in the room.

Where to place the insulation?

It is correct to insulate buildings from the outside, otherwise condensation of moisture from steam cannot be avoided upon contact warm air with a cold front (dew point). Let's consider three types of brick walls:

  • There is no insulation. The dew point is located in the thickness of the wall, so it accumulates moisture in winter months, becomes damp and breaks down over time.
  • The insulating layer is located on the side of the room. The wall freezes through, causing the dew point to shift toward the room, to the inner surface of the enclosing structure. Because of this, moisture condenses between the heat insulator and the wall. To avoid dampness of the wall, it is necessary to provide effective ventilation of the room.
  • The insulating layer is laid on the street side. The wall does not freeze, so it remains dry and freely releases steam outside. It is important that there is a ventilation gap between the insulating layer and the brickwork to remove moisture coming from the room.

Internal instead of external

It is obvious that insulating a brick house from the inside is not The best decision. However, you have to resort to it if:

  • The building is an architectural monument, and it is prohibited to make changes to appearance facade.
  • The walls of the apartment are freezing multi-storey building. According to current standards, it is forbidden to install structures that change the appearance of the building without permission.
  • The buildings are located close to each other, which makes it impossible to carry out work on external insulation walls
  • The external masonry of the house is made of expensive facing bricks and it's a pity to close it new finishing, but to lay a new outer layer of decorative brick After installing thermal insulation, additional serious financial investments are required.

Disadvantages of insulation interior walls include reducing the space of the room due to the fastening of insulation and the base for finishing. The thickness of the thermal insulation “pie” is usually at least 10 cm.

When installing a heat insulator inside the house, it is important to consider that the insulation internal surfaces walls threatens condensation, which should not be allowed.


Ventilation gap improves the thermal conductivity of the wall

Vapor permeability

In order for the living space to breathe well and the air not to be overly humidified, it is necessary high-quality ventilation. It is easy to breathe in buildings with brick walls, since the material is vapor permeable due to its porous structure. And so that excess moisture does not condense under the layer of insulation on the wall, but freely leaves the room, it is necessary to comply important rule– vapor permeability should increase towards outside, i.e. to the street.

This means that when insulating brick walls from the inside, you cannot use materials that transmit steam better than the brick itself. Otherwise, this will lead to condensation settling on the structures. That is, covering a freezing wall with plasterboard will provoke constant dampening of the structures during the cold season.

Material selection criteria

When choosing how to insulate a brick wall from the inside, it is important to take into account the thermal insulation parameters of the material, as well as its vapor permeability. To protect freezing brick walls from contact with steam, choose one of three options:

  • They use a polymer heat insulator that does not allow steam to pass through. Extruded polystyrene foam and polystyrene will help insulate walls from the inside high density(loose material is vapor permeable), penofol, sprayed polyurethane foam.
  • Mineral wool insulation (as well as loose foam) is laid using high-quality hydro- and vapor barrier. Fiber insulation allows steam to pass through and tends to accumulate moisture. Basalt wool does not collapse under the influence of water, but its insulating properties deteriorate sharply.
  • Apply to enclosing structures thick layer heat-insulating plaster.

When deciding how best to insulate your brick house, take into account the method of installing the heat insulator. In almost all cases, you can do the insulation from the inside yourself. An exception is spraying polyurethane foam, since the work requires the use of special equipment.

Properties of materials and installation technologies

Let’s figure out which insulation is best for the walls of a brick house, taking into account the advantages and disadvantages of each option, as well as the installation features of popular materials.

Note! The thickness of the thermal insulation layer is calculated individually, taking into account the heat loss of the house and the thermal insulation properties of the selected material!

Mineral wool

Internal insulation of brick walls with mineral wool slabs has certain specifics due to the vapor-permeable structure of the material. The heat insulator must be covered with a vapor barrier film on both sides, ensuring tightness to prevent heated humid air contact with enclosing structures.


Insulation scheme for internal brick walls mineral wool

Work progress:

  • a vapor barrier film and joints are attached to the wall (with an overlap on the adjacent planes of the walls, floor and ceiling) roll material securely taped;
  • a vertical sheathing is installed in increments slightly smaller than the width of the heat insulator, the depth of the cells should correspond to the thickness of the insulation;
  • Mineral wool slabs are inserted into the cells;
  • attached on top vapor barrier material with hermetically sealed joining seams;
  • a counter-lattice is inserted to secure the cladding from chipboard sheets, drywall or other materials.

Extruded polystyrene foam

Advantages modern material– excellent thermal insulation properties, lightness and strength. Extruded polystyrene foam is fire resistant. It is possible to insulate structures with this material by analogy with mineral wool, but the lathing promotes the formation of cold bridges, which lead to the formation of condensation zones.


Scheme for insulating brick walls with polystyrene foam indoors
Let's look at how to properly insulate a brick wall from the inside using extruded polystyrene foam:
  • the surface is cleaned, leveled with a thin layer of plaster and primed;
  • using polyurethane foam or foam glue, slabs of foamed polymer are glued to the wall - the elements are placed with a shift of half the width to avoid long vertical seams;
  • The joints are filled with polyurethane foam, and after hardening, the excess is cut off.

The best option after this work may be gluing reinforcing mesh and plastering the surface for painting or wallpapering. You can also use “fungi” dowels to attach pieces of metal profiles about 10 cm long, onto which you can then sew drywall. But the use of “fungi” violates the integrity of the heat-insulating layer.

Styrofoam

The advantage of polystyrene foam is its low cost; in all other respects it is significantly inferior to extruded polystyrene foam. The main disadvantage of the material is flammability with the release of toxic substances. Foam plastic with a density of at least 35 kg/m 3 can be used as a heat insulator. To insulate the walls of a brick house from the inside, high-density material (about 50 kg/m3) can be installed using the technology of fastening extruded polystyrene foam, and looser, steam-permeable material can be used as mineral wool. In this case, the joints between the thermal insulation elements and the sheathing are sealed with polyurethane foam.


Scheme of insulating walls from the inside with foam plastic

Penofol

Thermal insulation made of polyethylene foam can have a foil coating on one side or on both sides. The material is characterized by its low thickness with high thermal insulation properties. Penofol with a thickness of 4 mm can replace mineral wool with a thickness of 80 mm. At the same time, it is often used together with mineral wool slabs to increase thermal insulation properties“pie”, simultaneously reducing its thickness. In this case, it is attached instead vapor barrier film after laying the heat insulator into the sheathing.

You can make thermal insulation of walls and partitions from foam foam alone. Slats with a thickness of 20 mm or more are stuffed onto the walls to create an air gap. Mounted using brackets horizontal stripes penofol with a foil layer to the room, gluing the joints with aluminum tape. Then they fill the counter-lattice for cladding the walls for finishing. The foil layer reflects thermal radiation, helping to retain heat in the house.

Sprayed polyurethane foam

Sprayed polyurethane foam will help create a warm wall without cold bridges. The foamed polymer is applied in an even layer to the prepared surface using special equipment. If the estimated layer thickness exceeds 3–4 cm, it is recommended to install formwork lathing, which will serve as the basis for fastening the sheathing under finishing. The disadvantage of the material is the high cost of work.


Internal insulated walls with polyurethane foam

Plaster

Plastering walls – classic way insulation. This a good option, if you don’t want to turn the room into a sealed box with artificial ventilation, because the plaster layer is “breathable”, like the brick wall itself. The disadvantages include the duration and labor intensity of “wet” work - you will have to plaster in several layers to achieve required thickness thermal protection.


Application of plaster for brick walls

Conclusion

Knowing how to insulate a brick wall from the inside using different types of materials, their advantages and disadvantages, it is easier to choose the appropriate option. If you plan to do the whole complex of work with your own hands, you must follow the instructions, because violating the technology can have serious consequences in the form of mold on the walls and gradual destruction brickwork. We must not forget that internal insulation requires arrangement supply and exhaust ventilation which will remove excess moisture.



 
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