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Is it possible to glue foam plastic to aerated concrete? Insulation of aerated concrete from the outside with Penoplex, basalt slabs, mineral wool and polyurethane foam. How to insulate a house made of aerated concrete from the outside with penoplex. Is it necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete?

September 5, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works(laying a foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high technology, computer equipment, programming.

Today I want to talk about insulating aerated concrete outside. In order to perform high-quality thermal insulation of walls made of cellular concrete, it is necessary to choose the right material. Ideally, the thermal insulation layer should work in tandem with aerated concrete, leveling out the disadvantages and emphasizing the advantages of the latter.

Therefore, the article is entirely devoted to the question of how to insulate aerated concrete from the outside.

The need for insulation of aerated concrete and features of the choice of material

Aerated concrete is a common building material that is used for the construction of load-bearing and internal walls of private houses and cottages. It itself has a low thermal conductivity coefficient, so it reliably holds thermal energy inside residential premises.

However, there is often a need to insulate it. I will list the most common cases:

1. When designing load-bearing walls reinforcing belts made of reinforced concrete were used to strengthen them. These sections of enclosing structures become islands of cold, unless, of course, measures are taken to insulate them externally.
2. Aerated concrete itself is a porous material, so it strongly absorbs water. If you leave the surfaces of the walls unprotected from moisture, they will absorb a lot of liquid, which, when frozen, will quickly lead to the destruction of the building. Wall insulation installed outside will act as protection against getting wet.

1. To strengthen the walls of a house, high-density aerated concrete (more than D500) is often used. The heat-preserving properties of this material are not enough to act as an independent heat insulator. Such wall blocks require additional insulation.
2. To save money on the purchase of building materials, the walls of the house were built from 300 mm thick blocks. This thickness is not enough to prevent loss of thermal energy. To make your home energy efficient, you will have to additionally install a thermal insulation layer.
3. When laying the walls, instead of glue for aerated blocks, ordinary cement mortar was used, which has high thermal conductivity and does not allow the blocks to be laid in the manner provided by the technology.

I would like to note right away that due to the specifics of the material (low thermal conductivity and excellent vapor permeability), it is necessary that the insulation for aerated concrete meets the following requirements:

Characteristic	Description
Hydrophobicity	It is necessary that the insulation has water-repellent properties and protects the enclosing structure made of porous concrete from moisture from atmospheric moisture.
Vapor permeability	Aerated concrete allows air to pass through well, therefore it promotes self-regulation of the microclimate inside the living spaces of the house. Therefore, the insulation must be selected in such a way that it does not interfere with air infiltration through the external walls of the house.
Easy to install	Aerated concrete is a fragile material, so it can be destroyed when dowels and screws are screwed into it. Therefore, it is advisable to select insulation, for the installation of which it would not be necessary to install a complex lathing made of wood or galvanized profiles.

Well, naturally, I would give preference to those types of insulation, the fastening of which would be easy to do with your own hands (without the use of special equipment or engineering equipment).

I can say that among the thermal insulation materials on the market there is no one that meets all the requirements 100%. Therefore, I will dwell on the consideration of those options that I myself have used in practice and note whether it is possible to insulate aerated concrete from the outside with one or another heat insulator.

Characteristics of individual insulation materials for aerated concrete

For thermal insulation of enclosing structures made of cellular concrete, several insulation materials can be used. I have presented the most popular options in the diagram below:

Now let's figure out which one is better.

Expanded polystyrene

This is perhaps the most popular insulation of all used in private construction. The reason for its success is its low price. Among the thermal insulation materials mentioned here, polystyrene foam is the cheapest. However, is it possible to insulate aerated concrete with polystyrene foam? I'll describe it to you specifications, and then I will draw the appropriate conclusion.

Heat-retaining properties

The main thing you need to pay attention to is the ability of the material to retain thermal energy inside the house, that is, the thermal conductivity coefficient of polystyrene foam.

This material is somewhat similar to aerated concrete, that is, it consists of air bubbles, the walls of which are made of thin polystyrene. Atmospheric gas does not allow thermal energy to pass through, so foam plastic can also play the role of insulation.

The material has a very low thermal conductivity coefficient (λ is in the range from 0.028 to 0.034 W/(m*K) depending on the density of the sheets). Therefore, aerated concrete walls can be safely insulated with expanded polystyrene.

Research shows that for effective operation it is enough to fix a layer of polystyrene foam 10 cm thick on the surface of the walls. I also had to install thicker foam. I described this process in detail in one of the articles on this portal.

Vapor permeability

This section will focus on the ability of expanded polystyrene to pass air through itself during operation. I should immediately note that the vapor permeability coefficient construction foam averages 0.05 mg/(m*h*Pa). Naturally, this is much less than the same indicator for aerated concrete itself (0.11 mg/(m*h*Pa)). However, it is quite enough for moisture from the enclosing structures to come out and evaporate from the surface of the insulation.

Experience in operating houses made of aerated concrete insulated with foam plastic shows that its installation on external wall surfaces does not reduce the service life of buildings and does not impair performance properties load-bearing structures. But in order to regulate the level of humidity indoors, you will have to design reliable supply and exhaust ventilation with forced air flow.

Block polystyrene foam should not be confused with extruded polystyrene. The latter has a vapor permeability coefficient of 0.01 mg/(m*h*Pa) and is not recommended for use for thermal insulation of walls made of porous materials. It is more suitable for insulation interfloor ceilings or foundations.

Water absorption

Now let's look at the ability of expanded polystyrene to absorb liquid. According to this indicator, the insulation is among the leaders, having excellent water-repellent properties. In direct contact with liquid, the foam absorbs no more than 4% of its own volume, and does this during the first 24 hours, after which the absorbency becomes zero.

The peculiarity of this process is that water penetrates only into upper layer insulation, the cells of which are destroyed during the cutting process into slabs. It does not leak into the thickness of the material, so the insulation is able to withstand a large number of successive freezing and thawing cycles.

Thus, polystyrene foam not only does not require additional protection from getting wet in the form waterproofing membrane, but it itself acts as an excellent barrier that prevents moisture from porous aerated concrete.

Strength

Thermal insulation material used for external insulation of any enclosing structures, including aerated concrete, must withstand significant external mechanical resistance. The possibility of using certain materials for finishing the surface of the facade also depends on the strength.

When choosing, it is important to determine the compressive strength of the foam. So, depending on the density of the insulation, at 10% deformation of the sheet surface, it can withstand external influence force from 5 to 80 Pa.

From this we can draw an unambiguous conclusion that the material will easily withstand external finishing with thin-layer cement mortar. The latter will protect not only the insulation itself, but also the fragile surface of aerated concrete blocks. That is, foam plastic, in addition to insulation, will play the role of a protective layer for enclosing structures.

The extruded polystyrene foam I mentioned is even more durable, but only certain types of material can be used for wall mounting.

Durability

When choosing a material for insulating aerated concrete walls, it is important to consider the insulation from the point of view of its resistance to external biological, chemical and natural factors. Let's consider each of them separately:

1. Chemical resistance. Personally, I really like polystyrene foam because it does not react chemically with substances used in the manufacture of mortars (alkali, acid, salt). Therefore, it can be glued with cement or polyurethane glue, and then plastered with a reinforcing mixture based on the same binder. However, I do not recommend painting polystyrene foam with oil paints or pouring acetone or petroleum products onto it. The insulation will immediately become unusable.
2. Biological resistance. Expanded polystyrene is biologically neutral, so there is no need to worry about the appearance of mold or mildew on its surface. And over time, it will not rot, as happens with organic materials. However, rodents love to make passages inside the foam. Therefore, it is better to plaster the surface of the insulating layer with cement mortar, and protect it from below with a special galvanized starting profiles, which is too tough for mice.
3. Impact of natural factors. As for rain and temperature fluctuations, we talked about that. I only want to note the very low resistance of the insulation to ultraviolet radiation. Expanded polystyrene can be used to insulate aerated concrete walls from the outside, but serious measures must be taken to protect it from direct sunlight.

Sound absorption

Aerated concrete, having a porous structure, well absorbs sound waves traveling through the air. And foam plastic copes well with structural (impact) noise. Therefore, using them in tandem, you can reliably protect the premises inside the cottage from extraneous sounds.

But it should be noted that absolute silence is unlikely to be achieved. To do this, polystyrene foam will have to be replaced with materials with a higher sound absorption coefficient.

Flammability

Expanded polystyrene and autoclaved aerated concrete are antagonists in this aspect. If the insulation is very flammable (category G4), then porous wall blocks do not burn at all (category NG).

However, this does not mean that when using polystyrene foam to insulate the external surfaces of walls, you do not need to take care of fire safety. In this regard, I can give some useful tips:

1. For insulation, you need to buy polystyrene foam, to which substances have been added that contribute to the attenuation of the material during a fire (fire retardants). Thanks to them, the fire safety level of the insulation increases (it goes into category G3). You can recognize such a heat insulator by the letter “C” in the marking.
2. When installing an insulating layer, you can install special fire belts made of mineral wool, which limits the spread of fire.
3. To finish the insulation, use cement plaster, a layer of which protects the polystyrene foam from fire.

Environmental friendliness

I will not dwell on this point for long. I will only say that the material does not cause harm to human health during operation and installation. This is evidenced by certificates issued by regulatory authorities for insulation materials presented in stores.

I note that the absence of harm is guaranteed only if the rules for installing insulation and its subsequent use are followed. Therefore, if you have chosen this material for work, take the trouble to thoroughly study the technology for installing it on aerated concrete walls.

Having analyzed all the listed characteristics, I personally do not understand why it is impossible to use foam plastic to insulate walls made of cellular concrete. Judging from the point of view of operational properties, there are no significant restrictions here.

Mineral wool

So, how to insulate the walls outside, besides polystyrene foam. Of course, mineral wool. More precisely, the variety that is made from minerals of volcanic origin.

Heat-retaining properties

I’ll start, as usual, with the thermal conductivity coefficient, since I consider this indicator to be the most important when choosing a thermal insulation material.

Mineral wool consists of microscopic fibers glued together with phenol resin. Inside the insulating mat, a huge number of layers of air are formed, which is a poor conductor of heat.

Thanks to this structure, the described insulation receives a low thermal conductivity coefficient (from 0.032 to 0.048 W/(m*K)). Naturally, this is more than polystyrene foam, but it is quite enough to protect aerated concrete house from heat loss.

For comparison: mineral wool 13.5 cm thick has the same thermal resistance as a wall made of aerated concrete blocks 98.1 cm thick. The conclusion is simple: why waste time and money on building such thick walls if you can install mineral wool on the façade? cotton wool

Vapor permeability

According to this indicator basalt wool leaves the polystyrene foam discussed above far behind. Air and the moisture contained in it easily penetrates through the insulation layer, so thermal insulation in no way interferes with the “breathing” of the enclosing structures.

If we talk about exact values, then mineral wool has a vapor permeability coefficient of 0.39 to 0.6 mg/(m*h*Pa). That is, this is more than that of aerated concrete itself (0.26 for grade D300). From this we can conclude that basalt mats are a vapor-permeable insulation material that is ideal for thermal insulation of walls made of cellular building materials.

This fact must be taken into account when choosing a decorative finishing method. It is better to protect mineral wool with hanging materials with an intermediate ventilation gap. Cement, which can also be considered as an option, can reduce the overall vapor permeability of enclosing structures.

Water absorption

Some experts do not recommend using mineral wool, citing its ability to absorb large amounts of liquid, which negatively affects thermal conductivity (it increases).

However, in this case we are talking about outdated slag and glass wool. And modern insulation based on basalt fiber has an almost zero water absorption coefficient.

The bottom line is that basalt fibers themselves are not capable of absorbing water, and they are glued together into finished insulation using phenol-formaldehyde resins, which have hydrophobic properties and contribute to rapid elimination liquid that has entered the insulation onto the surface of the waterproofing layer.

The moisture-repellent properties of mineral wool are so high that it is often used for internal thermal insulation of saunas, basements and other similar rooms with a humid microclimate.

However, when using basalt insulation for thermal insulation of walls according to the method curtain façade, it is imperative to use a vapor-permeable waterproof membrane. Thanks to it, the efficiency of the insulation increases and its service life is extended.

Strength

Despite its apparent softness, mineral wool is in no way inferior in strength to the foam plastic discussed above. The high strength of the material is achieved due to the chaotic arrangement of basalt fibers, some of which are oriented vertically relative to the plane of the mats.

The specific value of strength largely depends on the strength index, however, like foam plastic, at 10% surface deformation the material has a tensile strength reaching 80 kPa.

Therefore, mineral wool, like foam plastic, can be covered on top with a thin-layer cement screed. And installed in the lathing on the walls, it retains its original dimensions throughout its entire service life, regardless of external conditions.

Durability

Basalt wool (unlike, for example, slag wool) is chemically and biologically neutral. Upon contact with mortars it does not enter into a chemical reaction with them. The insulation can be glued to porous aerated concrete with cement glue, which will firmly hold the thermal insulation layer throughout the life of the house.

In addition, the insulation is not subject to biocorrosion. Microorganisms - mold and mildew, as well as insects - cannot grow inside basalt wool and on its surface.

Another big plus is protection from rodents. Mice cannot damage the layer of basalt insulation, which makes the latter stand out against the background of foam plastic.

Sound absorption

This is another indicator that sets mineral wool apart from foam plastic. Unlike the latter, insulation based on basalt fiber has open structure, therefore it perfectly absorbs sound waves of structural and air origin.

If you want to reliably protect interior spaces an aerated concrete house from extraneous sounds - there is no need to look for a better material than basalt wool. It is often used to construct soundproof partitions that prevent the propagation of sound waves inside living rooms.

Flammability

Basalt wool is made from minerals of volcanic origin. The fibers from which insulating mats are glued are capable of maintaining integrity when heated above 1110 degrees Celsius. Therefore, when a fire occurs, the heat-insulating layer not only does not catch fire, but also helps to extinguish the flame and limits its further spread.

According to fire safety rules (NPB number 244-97), basalt wool belongs to the NG class in terms of flammability. Therefore, it can be used to insulate two- and three-story private aerated concrete houses (since high-rise structures are subject to increased fire safety requirements).

Environmental friendliness

Basalt insulation is made from a natural mineral that cannot cause harm to human health. The small emission of phenol is due to the use of formaldehyde resins for gluing fibers.

To neutralize the negative effect of insulation on human health, mineral wool is subjected to additional heat treatment during the production process, which neutralizes adhesive composition.

As a result, residual emissions harmful substances is much below normal. This is confirmed by studies conducted by the Russian Research Institute of Building Physics. Moreover, they also studied the emission of fibers, which was also minimal even for material 50 years old.

Mineral wool - almost the best option for insulating walls made of aerated concrete, it not only insulates the walls, but also does not stop air infiltration through the cellular concrete.

However, so that I am not later accused of lack of objectivity, I will consider another option, which is only gaining popularity - polyurethane foam.

Polyurethane foam

This material belongs to the category of sprayed insulation, that is, it is applied using a sprayer and forms a completely homogeneous, sealed layer, which adheres well to the porous surface of aerated concrete.

However, how well is it suitable for thermal insulation of walls made of cellular material? Let's figure it out now.

Heat-retaining properties

The thermal conductivity coefficient of the sprayed foam depends on the size of the cells, that is, the density of the hardened foam. Typically it takes a value from 0.019 to 0.035 W/(m*K). That is, it is in the middle between foam plastic, which is the leader, and mineral wool.

As in the cases described above, when insulating a house made of aerated concrete blocks built in middle lane Russian Federation you will need to spray foam polyurethane with a layer 10, less often 5 cm thick (depending on the brand of material used in the construction of the walls).

Vapor permeability

Polyurethane foam, after hardening, practically does not allow air to pass through the insulating layer. The vapor permeability of polyurethane of any density (from 32 to 80 kg per cubic meter) is 0.05 mg/(m*h*Pa). This is approximately the same as that of a reinforced concrete monolith (0.03).

Therefore, when deciding to use polyurethane foam to insulate “breathable” aerated concrete walls, it should be taken into account that the insulation completely stops air infiltration through the enclosing structures.

On the one hand, this protects the material from moisture, on the other hand, it does not allow excess moisture to escape from the walls.

Water absorption

In addition, a large amount of water vapor will be concentrated in the premises, which should be removed using an effective ventilation system.

The material practically does not absorb water. In direct contact with liquid in the first 23 hours, polyurethane foam absorbs no more than 2% of water from its own volume (the exact number depends on the recipe for preparing the foam).

Strength

Moreover, water-repellent substances are often added to the initial composition, which increase the water-repellent properties of the insulation in question by 4 times. Most often, castor oil plays this role.

Taking into account the specifics of preparing the insulation (mixing immediately before application), the strength characteristics of the material may vary depending on the needs of specialists.

Rigid polyurethane foams, which are used for insulation of residential buildings and commercial structures, at 10% surface deformation have a strength of 1.6-3.4 kPa (for a density of 35 and 60 kg per cubic meter, respectively).

Durability

Typically, polyurethane foam is sprayed onto surfaces with pre-installed sheathing or brackets to install exterior decorative cladding.

• highly concentrated vapors of acids and alkalis, as well as dilute acid and alkaline solutions;
• gasoline and other petroleum products;
• oils;
• alcohols;
• construction binders, plasticizers and modifiers.

The material protects the metal installed in the reinforcing belts of aerated concrete walls from corrosion.

Sound absorption

Like polystyrene foam, the material insulates the room well from structural noise, but does not absorb sound waves traveling through the air well. Therefore, it is not suitable for arranging soundproof partitions.

Flammability

Unlike the polystyrene foam discussed at the beginning of the article, the material belongs to the category of low-flammability, low-burning and self-extinguishing. But not non-flammable (like mineral wool).

The fire resistance of the material used to insulate aerated concrete walls depends on the specific composition of the initial components. There are even special types that can be classified as non-flammable, but they are too expensive, so they are used to insulate those objects whose fire-fighting qualities are subject to special requirements.

Environmental friendliness

Polyurethane foam hardened on the walls is absolutely safe for humans under normal operating conditions. Only when heated above 500 degrees Celsius can the material emit carbon monoxide and carbon dioxide, which are dangerous to human health.

However, during spraying, when a chemical reaction occurs between the components of the mixture, it is necessary to protect the respiratory system, eyes and skin from the harmful effects of certain substances in the composition of polyurethane foam.

As you can see, polyurethane foam, with some reservations, is suitable for insulating aerated concrete, but I would still give preference to vapor-permeable mineral wool or cheap polystyrene foam.

Summary

You now have enough information to allow you to right choice insulation: the outside walls of your home will be properly protected. Approximate instructions on how to use basalt mats for this purpose are presented to your attention in the video in this article.

Let's think together about whether it is possible to insulate the floor along the slab with aerated concrete to prevent heat loss through basement floor? Write your notes in the comments!

September 5, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Today, the construction of private houses from aerated concrete blocks is becoming increasingly popular. Aerated concrete blocks have a rather interesting porous structure, which has low thermal conductivity, but is susceptible to moisture. This determines the use of a small amount of thermal insulation layer, usually one or two. This is enough for the severest frosts in the winter and is a necessary condition for protecting the blocks from the destructive effects of the environment. How to insulate a house made of aerated concrete?

Insulation of a house made of aerated concrete

Is it necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete? It’s no longer a question, but how to do it correctly? Experts recommend insulation from the outside of the house. This will avoid unnecessary waste of usable space, and will also provide additional protection to the external walls of the house and the transition of the “dew point” to the external walls. Dew point is the temperature limit at which cooling air reaches saturation and condenses into dew. In addition, you should not experiment with the thickness of the aerated concrete wall, so the option of 300 millimeters disappears immediately. According to the recommendations of experts, 375 millimeters is the minimum thickness of the walls of a private house made of aerated concrete! This is the minimum acceptable standard, taking into account the use of insulation.

Before you begin insulation, you need to select the insulation material and calculate the amount of material that will be required during the work process. The choice of insulation material should be taken responsibly, because this factor will determine the final cost of the work, installation method, as well as quantitative consumption insulation material. But before choosing an insulation material, you need to decide on the option for insulating a private house.

Options for insulating a house made of aerated concrete blocks:

• From the inside. In any case, with this method, living space will suffer, which can be used in a more effective and efficient way. In addition, you will need to install a rather expensive ventilation system, but even this will not save you from the appearance of fungi and mold in the space between the insulation and the aerated concrete wall.
• Outside . It is recommended to insulate the outside walls of the house from the outside. This method is used not only for additional protection of walls from precipitation or scorching sun, but this method of insulation saves time due to relatively simple installation, and does not require the creation of additional space for work. In addition, if it is necessary to change the facade of the house, this can be done without unnecessary complications. In addition, external insulation provides additional sound insulation and makes the house more attractive. appearance.

Insulation process

What type of insulation to choose, how to insulate and what may be required for this? It is necessary to take into account the fact that aerated concrete has vapor-permeable properties. Therefore, in order to properly insulate the walls of a house made of aerated concrete from the outside, the insulation must have a vapor permeability higher than that of aerated concrete blocks. Otherwise in internal walls Moisture will begin to accumulate, which will gradually lead to their destruction or costly restoration. The most used materials as insulation for external walls aerated concrete house are mineral wool and polystyrene foam.

Important! A necessary point that should be taken into account when insulating a house is the influence of rodents. Small dirty tricks do not come close to mineral wool and simply adore polystyrene foam. They gnaw at it, forming burrows in it, so the façade must be completely covered with plaster to prevent the appearance of a family of rodents.

How to properly insulate with polystyrene foam?

Polystyrene foam does not allow steam to pass through, so when choosing such insulation, you should take care of a high-quality air ventilation system. But the undoubted advantages of using polystyrene foam include its low cost (almost several times cheaper than mineral wool).

Work order:

• Irregularities that arise over time or due to manufacturing defects should be leveled out;
• Fiberglass mesh needs to be glued near the windows. It is attached in such a way that there is at least 10 centimeters of mesh under the outer layer of insulation, and it is also possible to glue about another 10 centimeters on top of it. This procedure is performed for additional reinforcement;
• Special glue is applied to the foam sheet (experts recommend using a notched trowel to ensure uniform application and coverage of the entire surface of the foam);

Is it possible to insulate with mineral wool?

Mineral wool as an insulating material is much more practical than polystyrene foam. Of course, it has a higher cost, but it also has a number of undoubted advantages: high strength and vapor permeability. This material is recommended to be used to maintain a stable level of humidity and a comfortable microclimate in a private home. The working life of the insulating material without loss of operational features is more than 50 years. Mineral wool insulators are produced in the following versions: some are in the form of slabs, others are produced in the form of rolls. For ease of installation, the slabs are produced in sizes of 500*1000 millimeters.

Work order:

• External walls must be cleaned of dust and dirt. For this, aggressive detergents, a stiff brush and a metal sponge are used;
• Insulating walls with mineral wool will require special glue;
• Additional fixation is provided by the use of plastic dowels;
• After the mineral wool has dried a little, a fiberglass mesh is attached to it, which will subsequently protect the walls from cracks in the paint or plaster;
• Another layer of glue is applied on top of the fiberglass mesh;
• It is recommended to start plastering and painting the insulating material after the glue has dried.

Other materials used for insulation

In addition to mineral wool and polystyrene foam, penoplex (extruded polystyrene foam) and polyurethane foam can be used as insulation. Insulating aerated concrete from the outside with penoplex significantly reduces heat loss due to its low thermal conductivity coefficient. In addition, this material is suitable for installation on any surface. Polyurethane foam as insulation on the outside of the house forms foam when it begins to interact with the insulated surface.

Finishing of aerated concrete blocks

Aerated concrete blocks are several times larger than wooden materials by vapor permeability. This is one of several reasons for the popularity of aerated concrete blocks. But violations made during installation or operation can affect vapor permeability. Aerated concrete walls for siding – perfect solution by application finishing materials. Sometimes aerated concrete blocks can be hidden behind a brick wall, decorative tiles or plaster mixtures. The work becomes easier when it turns out that an extended foundation was used to build the house. When improving the appearance with brick, you should remember to create ventilation holes.

Finishing from the inside. Work order:

• A primer material is applied on top of the insulation;
• The plaster is applied after the primer has dried;
• It is recommended to smooth the walls after the plaster has dried. This stage is carried out 2 times in a row (the interval between repetitions is a day);
• The wall is insulated with the help of an internal facing material - plasterboard, using a special adhesive solution. A wooden frame of slats is first prepared, and plasterboard panels are mounted on them, which are subsequently painted with vapor-permeable paint.

An alternative to using aerated concrete blocks

It is most rational and effective to provide insulation of aerated concrete with penoplex, mineral wool or polystyrene foam at the stage of building a house. It is better to insulate the house at the very beginning than to carry out the work later, when the labor intensity will increase several times. But the most common mistake when building a house is laying aerated concrete blocks on concrete mortar. After all, it is he who lets the cold through. Through the seams outside air penetrates the house, increasing heating costs.

Possible variant effective styling– special adhesive base, the thickness of which does not exceed three millimeters. The better the roof, window openings and foundation are insulated, the better. After all, these objects are insulated at the very beginning of construction.

Afterword

Now you are probably wondering: is it necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete and what materials should be used? Of course you need it! After all, an insulated house built from aerated concrete has a number of advantages: the relative ease of performing the work, which does not require special skills, low cost and high thermal insulation of the walls provide residents of a private house with enough comfortable accommodation. But to eliminate possible troubles associated with climatic conditions and the manifestation of the vital activity of rodents, the best solution is the insulation of aerated concrete with polystyrene foam, penoplex or mineral wool.

Expanding the topic of this article, it is necessary first of all to answer the question of what aerated concrete is. Well, first of all, it is a building material. Secondly, it belongs to the category of cellular concrete, as a result of which a porous structure saturated with gas bubbles is formed inside the material.

Accordingly, the quality of this material will largely depend on the uniform distribution of pores, their density and closedness.

Note!
Basically this is natural material, which is made from quartz sand and cement with the addition of special gas-forming agents.
Most often, their role is performed by aluminum powder.

Technologies for the production of aerated concrete are different, hence the recipe, which varies depending on the type of technological process. For example, manufacturers often add lime to the composition of aerated concrete, less often gypsum.

The production technology is quite simple.

1. All components are mixed in certain proportions.
2. Molding occurs, where the material begins to expand under the influence of a chemical reaction, during which gas formation occurs.
3. After preliminary drying, the aerated concrete is cut into blocks.
4. Then the finished product must be dried. There are two methods: autoclave and non-autoclave.

Attention!
When using the first method, the strength characteristics of the material increase, but at the same time its price becomes higher.

Pay attention to one very important point, which relates to the topic of our article. The porous structure of aerated concrete suggests that this material itself is a good heat insulator. True, there is one “BUT” here. By increasing the thermal insulation qualities of aerated concrete, we reduce its strength properties.

That is, the more pores inside the product, the weaker it is, but the higher the insulation performance. Therefore, the question of whether or not to insulate a house built from aerated concrete blocks will largely depend on the brand of the product. And if you purchase more porous blocks, remember to build with them multi-storey buildings not worth it.

Now let's move on to the process itself and from the inside.

Is it necessary to insulate

We partially answered the question of whether it is necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete. But it is necessary to focus on another aspect. Aerated concrete blocks have high vapor permeability, that is, they “breathe” very well. This seems to be a big plus, but on the other hand it is also a minus.

Attention!
Walls made of aerated concrete blocks must be constructed in such a way that the vapor permeability of the material decreases from outer surface walls to the inside.
That is, the question of how to properly insulate the walls of a house made of aerated concrete is solved in exactly this way.
If everything turns out the other way around, then the gas inside the pores will begin to gain moisture, which will negatively affect the strength of the material, and, accordingly, the entire structure of the building as a whole.

To prevent the penetration of wet vapors into the body of the blocks, it is necessary to insulate the walls both outside and inside. Therefore, first of all, we will analyze several basic thermal insulation materials that are currently most often used in this process.

Let's figure out how to insulate aerated concrete walls.

Insulation materials

The modern building materials market is now ready to offer a huge range of thermal insulation materials that can be used to insulate aerated concrete.

Expanded polystyrene and polyurethane foam

Experts today give preference to such heat insulators as:

1. expanded polystyrene (regular and extruded);
2. polyurethane foam.

• The first insulation has a different structure relative to the density of the material itself. For example, ordinary polystyrene foam (also known as polystyrene foam) is less durable, less dense, and, accordingly, less reliable. Moreover, it has no high performance thermal insulation.
  Extruded polystyrene foam is a dense and durable insulation material with high thermal insulation performance.

• Polyurethane foam is a unique material. Firstly, this mortar, which is applied to walls under pressure. Secondly, when it hits the surface, it instantly bonds with it, creating a reliable foamed protective layer. Thirdly, such insulation will last for several decades.

But there is one very serious point here. Expanded polystyrene is a slab material that is not difficult to lay on the wall with your own hands. But you won’t be able to apply polyurethane foam to the surfaces to be treated yourself.

This requires not only experience and skills, but also special equipment. Therefore, this method of insulation is quite expensive, but effective.

Mineral wool

I would like to say a little about mineral wool. This is one of the most effective thermal insulation materials. But experts note that it is better not to use it with aerated concrete.

The thing is that mineral wool has the property of drawing in moist air vapor, which is a negative factor for aerated concrete blocks (we have already discussed this above).

So, you know which insulation for aerated concrete walls is better, now you can move on to the very process of arranging the thermal protection of the building.

And first of all, we will consider insulating aerated concrete with expanded polystyrene as the most budget option.

Insulation of walls made of aerated concrete blocks

As mentioned above, insulation of aerated concrete walls is carried out from the outside and from the inside. Why on both sides?

Remember!
Humidity and condensation largely depend on the dew point.
Bye thermal insulation work not drawn, this point is on the surface of the wall.
As soon as the insulation process is completed, the dew point will shift to the surface of the heat insulator.
A small mistake or incorrect work can lead to condensation forming on the insulation, and this is a guarantee that this material will soon begin to lose its qualities and properties.

As in any construction process, the insulation of aerated concrete houses is divided into several stages.

Stage No. 1

This internal insulation walls made of aerated concrete.

I would like to note that many of us independently insulated a loggia or balcony, so many technical processes will be familiar, taking into account the specifics of aerated concrete.

• In principle, aerated concrete blocks are very smooth and smooth surface There is no point in processing it to an ideal state. But sometimes they also have defects. Therefore, cracks and chips are sealed with glue or cement mortar, and the bumps are removed with sandpaper or a sharp spatula.
• After which the entire surface must be primed to create high wall adhesion. Please note that in some areas of the house the walls will be negatively affected by humidity.
  So, such walls must be treated with waterproofing compounds. And when it all dries (usually this takes up to six hours), you can start plastering. In this case, there is no need to use a thick layer of plaster.
• And the last thing is finishing. The easiest way is to paint the walls with special vapor-permeable paints, which are specially made for aerated concrete.
  If plasterboard is used as finishing, then the wall must be additionally treated with a primer. By the way, drywall can be glued to such surfaces.

Stage No. 2

This is insulation of the facade of a house made of aerated concrete. Everything is much simpler here because there is no need to mess with dirty processes. Although it should be noted that manufacturers today have begun to offer plaster solutions that are intended specifically for aerated concrete blocks.

Such solutions have excellent vapor-permeable properties, and also never crack.

Attention!
There is one very important point.
If the walls are treated with vapor-permeable materials from the inside and vapor-tight materials from the outside, then the likelihood is that inside the house there will be high humidity, very big.
Therefore, be extremely careful when choosing a heat insulator.

The slab material is laid directly on the wall, for which you can use either a cement-based fastening mortar or special mushroom-shaped screws. In the case of self-tapping screws, experts do not recommend using metal products that will begin to rust after a while.

And the last thing is finishing. What to choose?

In principle, there are a lot of materials, it’s better to note what not to choose.

• Vapor-proof paints;
• Polymer-based solutions;
• Solutions based on foamed plastics;
• Foam glass.

Yes, and do not forget to insulate all elements of the house, otherwise there will be little benefit from the work done. We're talking about insulation. plastic windows, entrance doors, basement, roof and so on.

Conclusion on the topic

As you can see, the instructions on how to properly insulate a house made of aerated concrete using expanded polystyrene (foam plastic) are not that complicated. Of course, knowledge of the nuances this process will provide simplicity and reliability, but in any case, anyone can handle such a job without problems.

In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic.

Aerated concrete (gas silicate) is one of the most popular materials in modern housing construction. Houses made of aerated concrete have become a familiar part of the countryside landscape; from 15 to 20% of new buildings built over the past 10 years are houses made of aerated concrete blocks. The porous structure of the material, characteristic of all lightweight concrete, ensures high performance characteristics of the structure. In many cases, owners decide to carry out additional insulation of the house using aerated concrete from the outside. This measure allows you to minimize heat loss and improve the microclimate of your home.

A house made of aerated concrete needs high-quality insulation

About the need for insulation

The structure of aerated concrete is complex system many open cells (voids) filled with air. This structural feature causes two useful properties material:

Good thermal insulation. The manufacturer claims that the porous structure of aerated concrete brings it closer to thermal insulation properties to wood, and is three to four times superior to brick. In the middle zone, according to SNiPs, the thickness of external walls of 400-500 mm will be sufficient without additional insulation if a block of a grade no lower than D500 is used. These calculations are correct, but do not take into account the second property of aerated concrete.

Gas permeability. Open pores mean that the material is able not only to transmit, but also to accumulate moisture, which is what happens during the operation of the house. Walls that have absorbed a certain amount of moisture become denser (water accumulates in the pores, like in capillaries). The thermal conductivity of such walls increases, and the ability to retain heat decreases, which is especially noticeable in regions with harsh winters. And if in the south (where the winter temperature difference between inside and outside the building is small) country houses do not need insulation, then to the north the walls must be protected.

The properties of aerated concrete are determined by its structure

Principles for choosing insulation

When choosing a suitable material for insulating aerated concrete walls, three factors are taken into account:

Physical properties of the material. Aerated concrete can regulate the humidity in the room: the walls breathe, allowing water vapor to pass out. The external cladding should not impede this diffusion.

Insulation properties. It should not just be vapor permeable; vapor permeability should be higher than that of aerated concrete blocks.

Insulation rule. It says: the vapor permeability of each subsequent layer of facade insulation should increase. If the selected material cannot easily allow air to pass out, then a ventilated gap must be installed behind it.

Compliance with these conditions helps to shift the dew point beyond the walls. If the masonry is not protected by anything, the moisture accumulating inside will inevitably freeze in severe frost. This leads to noticeable heat loss; after several cycles of freezing and thawing, the destruction of the surface layer of the blocks may begin.

Good to know! The dew point is a plane in the thickness of the wall where, due to the difference in external and internal temperatures, water vapor condenses into dew. With proper organization of external insulation, the dew point moves outward and cannot harm the walls.

Dew point shift when using insulation

The energy efficiency of a house is affected not only by properly selected insulation, but also by the quality of the wall masonry. If the interblock seams are made incorrectly (too thick), even high-quality insulation will not give the desired effect. Glue joints with a thickness of 1.5-2 mm are considered optimal. Laying blocks on cement-sand mortar with a seam of 10-12 mm will increase heat loss (and heating bills) by 20-20%.

Types and advantages of facade insulation

There is an alternative possibility - insulating the building from the inside. This option is less preferable for several reasons:

Living space will decrease.

Required installation effective ventilation system.

High will appear risk of mold formation, since the dew point will shift inside the home. Moisture and heat - optimal conditions for unpretentious microorganisms and fungi.

External insulation not only increases the service life of walls, but also preserves usable area housing. Suitable materials It is generally accepted to consider mineral wool, polystyrene foam, as well as polyurethane foam and penoplex (extruded polystyrene foam).

Internal insulation reduces the usable area of ​​housing

Considering different variants on how to insulate a house made of aerated concrete from the outside, many opt for ordinary or mineral plaster; the latter is specifically designed for aerated concrete walls. The insulation layer can be sheathed with several finishing materials:

Siding or clapboard.

Face brick or decorative stone.

Plaster.

Grouting joints followed by the use of vapor-permeable facade paint.

Installation of an insulating layer on the outside has the following positive aspects:

Energy efficiency increases buildings and heating bills are reduced.

Load-bearing walls are not exposed to natural forces, which increases service life country house.

Together with improved sound insulation of walls increases comfort of living.

Improves appearance of façade walls.

Scheme of a ventilated facade with finishing

On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer house insulation services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Foam insulation

Polystyrene foam is a common method of thermal protection of facades. It is valued for its light weight, due to which the material does not put a load on the walls and foundation, and ease of installation. Another important advantage is the cost, which is two times lower than the cost of mineral wool. In addition to its advantages, polystyrene foam has one quality that is unsuitable for aerated concrete.

It is known that the vapor permeability of wall layers should increase from the inside to the outside. Conventional extruded foam does not allow steam to pass through (it has zero vapor permeability). If it is used to cover aerated concrete, moisture will accumulate in the wall, deteriorating its performance. The output will be a single-level device wooden frame, with a ventilation gap. Insulation of a house made of aerated concrete with polystyrene foam is carried out in the following order:

Facade preparation. If it was built from non-autoclaved aerated blocks, leveling the surface may be required. If the blocks are autoclaved, the surface is cleaned and primed.

Profile installation. The guides of the frame system are fixed on the façade.

Foam insulation

Installation of foam plastic. It is placed in the spaces between the frame elements, additionally secured with polyurethane foam or glue.

Fixing the slabs. The foam sheathing is additionally reinforced with plastic dowels (metal dowels are not suitable, as they create cold bridges).

Decorative finishing. A primer is applied to the foam layer, a fiberglass mesh is fixed on top, then reinforcing glue is applied. After the glue has dried, finishing is done with decorative or warm plaster.

Insulation with mineral wool

Mineral wool is presented on the market in the form of slabs and rolls. It is actively used for insulating facade walls; basalt slabs are a special case of mineral wool, with similar qualities and performance characteristics. The widespread use of mineral wool is due to its many positive qualities:

Good vapor permeable properties.

High strength and immunity to biohazards. Materials are available in different hardness categories.

Fire resistance(when ignited, it does not burn, but melts).

Environmental friendliness. The basis of mineral wool is natural components that are not hazardous to human health.

Insulation with mineral wool

Installation of mineral wool on the facade is carried out in the following order.

Facade preparation. The wall is cleaned and leveled using cement mortar. Then the surface is primed and, if necessary, additionally leveled with vapor-permeable plaster.

Frame installation. The guides of the frame structure are fixed taking into account the size of the material used (roll or rectangular mats). Thanks to the frame, a ventilation gap is formed, sufficient for air circulation along the wall and steam removal.

Fastening mineral wool. It is carried out using glue applied to the slab material. Additional fixation is provided by plastic umbrella dowels.

Preparation for finishing. The mineral wool layer is reinforced with mesh and glue.

Finishing. The walls are coated with primer and plastered; The second common option is to cover it with putty and paint it. When finishing, do not use acrylic plaster, which has moisture-proof properties; such a coating will cause condensation to form.

Video description

About whether it is necessary to insulate aerated concrete walls in the following video:

Expanded polystyrene

Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) is one of the types of foam plastic. Expanded polystyrene is produced by foaming the starting ingredients at high temperature and pressure. The production method determines the physical properties of the material - it is mechanically strong, frost-resistant and can have different densities. The higher the density (and strength) of EPS, the higher the thermal conductivity. Vapor and air permeability are always at the same (low) level, and water absorption is minimal. The combination of qualities makes it possible to widely use EPS as an insulating facade material.

An undesirable property of polystyrene foam for aerated concrete walls - low vapor permeability, leading to the appearance of a thermos effect and a shift in the dew point - is avoided by installing a ventilation gap. As in the case of using polystyrene foam, the second option is possible - installing powerful supply and exhaust ventilation. Installation of the insulating layer and decorative finishing is carried out according to the same scheme as for foam plastic.

Expanded polystyrene boards

Polyurethane foam (PPU)

The material refers to sprayed substances; its application requires special equipment, which makes it not the most popular choice in private housing construction. After spraying, a homogeneous sealed layer with the following properties is formed on the wall:

PPU penetrates into the porous surface layer of the aerated concrete facade and forms with him strong connection, not deteriorating over time.

Thermal conductivity PPU, depending on density, occupies an intermediate value between polystyrene foam (minimum thermal conductivity coefficient) and mineral wool.

Required thickness polyurethane foam determined by the grade of material and ranges from 5 to 10 cm(in the middle lane). The service life of such coating is at least 25 years.

Vapor permeability After hardening, polyurethane foam is comparable to the performance of reinforced concrete; the filtration of air and water vapor completely stops. To remove water vapor accumulating in the premises, an effective ventilation system is organized.

The principle of creating a polyurethane foam layer

If polyurethane foam (as well as polystyrene foam or EPS) is selected as the outer insulating layer, a finish is selected for the premises, preventing steam from penetrating into aerated concrete. Cement plaster and alkyd paints, often used ceramic tiles and vinyl wallpaper.

Methods of attaching insulation to the facade

In practice, three technologies are used for insulating external gas-block walls.

Curtain facade. Is made of wood or metal frame structure, the step of which is equal to the width of the thermal insulation material. The insulation is placed in the cells of the frame, and a decorative layer is mounted on top.

Wet facade . The aerated concrete surface is cleaned. Selected thermal insulation material attached with adhesive and additionally secured with dowels. Then the wall is plastered in 2 layers using a reinforcing mesh.

Wet façade with reinforcement. If brick or natural stone is chosen as the finishing facing material, hooks are used to fix the insulation. Then the surface is reinforced with mesh and plastered. After the plaster has dried, cladding is carried out; The method allows you to do without strengthening the walls and foundation and in many cases is preferable.

Video description

About insulating a house made of aerated concrete with mineral wool in the following video:

Cost of work on insulating the facade of an aerated concrete house

Construction organizations offer services for insulation and plastering of the facade of aerated concrete houses, the price of which is determined by several factors. The exact estimated cost of the work is determined during a direct inspection of the house. The cost of work is affected by the following parameters:

Home inspection(the service is in most cases free if a contract is concluded).

Geometric features walls, number of storeys and surface area.

Specialist consultation for choosing optimal thermal insulation.

Compilation estimates.

Purchase and delivery of materials.

Carrying out work on insulation and finishing facade.

Export construction garbage.

Video description

About mistakes when insulating aerated concrete in the following video:

The cost of some work on the preparation and insulation of the facade in Moscow and the region (per m2, excluding the cost of materials) is as follows:

Construction and dismantling scaffolding: 50-55 rub.

Cleaning the façade surface: 90-110 rub.

Insulation of external walls with mineral wool: from 375 rub.

Installation of mineral wool on glue with doweling: from 425 rub.

Wall insulation with polystyrene foam: from 430 rub.

Installation of foam plastic with glue: from 400 rub.

Thermal insulation PPU: thickness up to 3 cm – 600 rub., thickness 5 cm – 750 rub.

Reinforcement of walls with fiberglass mesh: from 400 rub.

Installation of a reinforcing layer on top of the insulation: 380-420 rub.

Application decorative plaster: from 380-430 rub.

Finish color: from 400 rub.

Facade finishing artificial stone: from 1250 rub.

Specialists will competently carry out all stages of insulation

On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of houses made of aerated concrete blocks from construction companies presented at the exhibition of Low-Rise Country houses.

Conclusion

The vapor permeability of aerated concrete walls is a valuable quality for a country house. Incorrectly installed facade insulation layer will not only not give the expected effect, but will also entail undesirable consequences, from the effect of a thermos to the appearance of mold. Contacting specialists will help you avoid annoying mistakes and make your home warm and comfortable.

Cladding the walls of residential buildings with insulating materials is an event that receives special attention at the design stage. It doesn’t matter what materials you will use to build the facility, but experienced builders It is advised to insulate not only the roof and floors, but also load-bearing walls. This will help conserve thermal energy and avoid the appearance of fungus. To solve this problem, there is a sufficient amount of materials suitable for these purposes. Let's try to figure out what is the best way to insulate a house made of aerated concrete.

Why do you need to insulate?

Many builders prefer gas silicate blocks for certain reasons. First of all, construction work from such material does not require special skills. The blocks are large and light and can be joined together without any problems using a special adhesive. Objects do not need a strong foundation, and insulating the walls of a house with aerated concrete from the outside will reduce the cost of the project.

The blocks belong to the group of cellular concrete. If we compare aerated concrete with the production of slag concrete blocks, the technological process is different. In two words, a foam former – aluminum powder – is added to the mixture of cement and lime. Hydrogen is released, leaving a huge amount of voids in the block.

From the very beginning, porous blocks are characterized by weak strength to mechanical influences. To increase it, the final production stage takes place in an autoclave unit, where the blocks are subjected to significant pressure and high temperature. As a result, the material turns out to be quite durable.

From physics lessons we know that air is considered one of the best materials that can insulate heat. And the thermal conductivity index will depend on the number of pores in the block.

But there is one problem - the porous cells in the gas silicate material are open, which makes the block vapor-permeable and allows it to absorb moisture. For this reason, the answer to the question - is it necessary to insulate an aerated concrete house - will be unequivocal - it is necessary.

Another thing is what kind of protective layer to create, and is it necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete 300, or is it enough to line it with finishing materials?

It is no secret that the thickness of load-bearing walls, no matter what materials they are made from, will be fully determined by the average annual temperature conditions your region. As it follows from this, the average thickness of aerated concrete walls can be 30–50 cm. But almost no one is interested in the fact that in this case experts are referring to the load-bearing characteristics of the blocks. Simply put, the walls will be strong.

And, for example, questions about whether it is necessary to insulate a house from aerated concrete 400 and other grades are often kept silent.

In terms of thermal conductivity, in some regions of Russia only aerated concrete walls start from 700 mm in thickness.

Anyone who is planning construction in these regions and is thinking whether there is a need to carry out external insulation of a house made of aerated concrete if its walls are 30 cm thick, or whether it is possible to simply install a plaster layer, you need to take into account that if you insulate the facade of a house made of aerated concrete with polystyrene foam or mineralized wool, then insulation slabs ten centimeters thick will equivalently replace 300 mm thick walls made of aerated concrete material.

It turns out that half-meter walls should have a thermal insulation layer of at least 10 mm. And for walls made of aerated concrete grade d 500 with a thickness of 400 mm or less, more massive thermal insulation will be required.

In addition to the thermal conductivity indicator, there is another important feature– the concept of “dew point”. This term describes a place inside the external walls that has zero temperature. This is where the maximum amount of condensation will accumulate.

It should be recalled that aerated concrete blocks have a porous structure, and if the dew point falls on the block itself, then the moisture will freeze and thaw due to temperature fluctuations, destroying the material.

There is only one way out in this situation - try to move the point to the insulating layer. It will be less susceptible to destruction, and if it deteriorates, you can replace it faster than rebuilding walls. By the way, this explains the need to insulate external walls.

Insulation materials

The most common methods used to insulate walls made of thermally insulating aerated concrete are:

Features of insulation with various materials

There are many options for installing a layer of insulating material. Manufacturers offer a large selection of products needed for this at affordable prices. Let's look at the most popular options:

Expanded polystyrene

One of the economical options, used only outside the facility. There are two types - foam plastic and penoplex.

Foam plastic

The cost of the material is low, so it is preferred by developers seeking to save budget.

It should be taken into account that it does not allow steam to pass through. For this reason, when installing an insulating layer, it is recommended to provide a ventilation system.

The material is fixed on pre-cleaned walls with an adhesive composition applied with a notched spatula. Additionally, plastic dowels are used. When gluing foam sheets, their slight displacement is allowed. The surface can be plastered and painted after the adhesive solution has completely dried.

Penoplex

With its characteristics, the material resembles foam plastic and is used for outdoor work. Before installation, the wall surface is cleaned of gaps, chips, protrusions and cracks using plaster mortar. This gives the wall surface evenness and additional protection from the penetration of cold air currents.

When the plaster solution has dried, the wall is treated with a primer compound to improve the adhesion of the penoplex insulation to the aerated concrete blocks. When installing the insulating layer, a cement-based adhesive composition and disc dowels. The final stage is finishing the facade walls with plaster solutions or siding panels.

Minvata

The material has good strength and vapor permeability, and goes well with aerated concrete walls.

The use of such material provides comfort and a moderate level of humidity in the room.

The insulating layer will last for at least seventy years. The material is secured with plastic dowels and glue, which secures a mesh of fiberglass material. It will ensure the integrity of the plaster layer and paint applied on top. Some people prefer to insulate the walls outside with mineral wool under the siding.

Many people prefer stone wool

And yet, what is the best way to insulate aerated concrete? Today's market is able to offer any materials for finishing and insulation. You just need to remember that not all insulation materials can work effectively on aerated concrete blocks.

The basic principle of creating a multilayer structure is to increase the vapor permeability of the next layer, starting from inner surface walls Be that as it may, steam is one of the waste products, and part of it is removed outside through the walls. Among all the materials used as insulation for aerated concrete houses, many experts choose stone wool.

Two types of facade are very popular - “wet”, which has a thin layer of plaster, and a suspended ventilated system. In the first option, steam is released through the walls into the insulating layer, then passes into the plaster. In another case, the steam is drawn out through the ventilation gaps, which are arranged between the insulating layer and the facing material.

More durable slabs are used under the plaster layer, and for ventilated facades, preference is given to lightweight mineral wool with a low level of compressibility.

A thin layer of plaster can be applied to all substrates, and in ventilated facade system The use of materials that meet fire safety requirements is permitted. Is it worth reminding that cotton wool belongs to just such a group.

Technological features of installation of mineral wool

A ventilated facade finished with siding is a popular option for finishing private houses, because with its help all foundation errors are leveled out. And the work is not very difficult; it can be done on its own.

Over time, heaving forces or other reasons can cause cracks in the masonry, but the suspended cladding system does not suffer. And if we take into account the fragility of aerated concrete blocks and the need for strict adherence to production technology, most consumers give their preference to cladding, considering it a more durable finishing layer. To know how to properly insulate a house made of aerated concrete from the outside, you need to understand the stages of the work.

Preparatory stage

If you decide to insulate a building that is already in use, all functional and decorative elements, clean the surface from dirt, prime. If there are doubts about the load-bearing capabilities of the foundation and walls, they are examined by tapping them with a hammer.

When insulation is carried out during construction, the remaining solution is removed from the surface. Wet walls should be given time to dry completely.

Surface marking

Markings are applied to the walls using a construction level or level to create a frame base. The distances between the bars depend on the size of the insulation material.

Installation of vertical racks

To completely eliminate heat leakage, insulation is performed in two layers, with overlaps at the joints. To do this, first assemble the vertical sheathing.

The size of the bars must correspond to the thickness of the insulation. Fix it to the aerated concrete surface with special fasteners.

Laying wool

The thickness of the insulation is determined according to special thermal calculations. Most often it is 10 - 15 cm. The complete absence of shrinkage and excellent elasticity of the material make it possible to simplify the technological process by installing wool without additional fasteners, inserting it by surprise. If necessary, they can always be trimmed sharp knife or a hand saw with a fine tooth. Cuttings are always useful for filling gaps.

Attaching horizontal posts

Having laid the first layer, markings are made for the horizontal slats. The second row of bars is necessary so that the frame base for the siding is fixed vertically to it.

Cotton padding

Plates laid sideways with the seam sections shifted completely eliminate cold bridges, even if the racks are fixed with metal fasteners.

Protection

How to insulate walls stone wool, we figured it out. All that remains is to protect it from the effects of precipitation and ensure unimpeded drainage of condensate. For this purpose, vapor-permeable material is laid.

On top of such a membrane, fasteners are installed for the cladding, while maintaining a gap of three to five centimeters, ensuring normal operating conditions for the insulation.

Many people doubt whether it is necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete in this way, considering it costly. But the heat saved in the future will allow you to save on heating.

Internal insulation of a building made of aerated concrete blocks

We understand how to insulate the outside of walls. It remains to provide internal insulation. It is important to know here that aerated concrete should not be insulated inside, since in winter warm air currents will not be able to pass through the block pores. Condensation will begin to accumulate, the walls will become saturated with moisture and freeze. All this will have a negative impact on the operation of the facility. From the inside, you can simply level the walls with your own hands and hang wallpaper.

It turns out that aerated concrete is insulated only from the outside. This will help preserve heat and protect the house from destruction. By the way, don’t forget about the insulation for the ceiling. Mineral wool, already known for its properties, will perfectly cope with its role.

As follows from the reviews, it is better not to even design a house made of 300 mm aerated concrete without insulation.

Preference should be given to materials that have good vapor permeability.

Anyone who has decided to build a house from 400 mm aerated concrete without insulation, and is wondering whether this can be done, is recommended to simply plaster the outside walls to protect the blocks from destruction under the influence of precipitation. In addition, the plaster layer will give the building a presentable appearance.

When insulating walls, take care of reliable ventilation. In addition, the performance indicators of the insulating material must coincide with similar parameters of the materials used in the construction of walls.

Conclusion

There is now only one conclusion - wall insulation is necessary. Aerated concrete walls, insulated from the outside, have their own advantages:

• the work performed does not cause difficulties;
• the cost of the facility is reduced due to reliable thermal insulation of the walls.

To eliminate possible problems associated with the climate and the vital activity of rodents, it is recommended to insulate aerated concrete walls with mineralized wool, penoplex or polystyrene foam.

If the walls are insulated according to the rules, heating costs are minimized. Only carry out work in accordance with technological requirements, use high-quality materials.