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Technology for making skirting boards from mortar. Full review of ceiling skirting boards (93 photos). How to glue ceiling plinth

The last, final operation of installing the floor is the installation of a plinth - a complex element of the interior that performs certain functional and aesthetic tasks. It closes the compensation groove between the floor and walls, if necessary, masks unevenness of the floor and walls near their junction, and you can hide additional wires and cables. Thanks to the skirting board, you can ensure a color match between the floor and walls, floor and doors, floor and furniture. It can interact in color and shape with wall coverings and fabrics in the interior. The width of the plinth is often chosen depending on the height of the room and doorways. The presence of chamfers and relief on the plinth sometimes creates a harmonious transition to the relief of the walls or the pattern of the floor covering.

Skirting boards are made from solid wood, veneered wood, plastic or molded cardboard, laminated, covered with decorative film. If desired, you can preserve the natural color of the baseboard, tint or paint it in any color. It can be straight or angled, single or multi-piece, and can be nailed, screwed or special elements. Various modifications of skirting boards and fillets are shown in Fig. 61, 62.

In addition to regular skirting boards, some companies, for example Parador, produce skirting boards with snaps. Thanks to this design, skirting boards are easy to install and remove (for example, when changing wallpaper or painting walls), and the geometry of their cross-section allows you to lay behind them electrical cables(Fig. 63).

This reduces the cost of laying electrical networks (no need to ditch the walls) and provides convenient access to the wires. In addition to straight skirting boards, shaped modifications are also made for edging columns or the junction of a floor with a wall with an arched surface.

To hide unsightly saw cuts and sloppy corner joints, various plastic plugs are used for internal and external corner(Fig. 64),

and in order to close the end cut of the plinth, for example door frames, elegant plugs are used (Fig. 65), painted to resemble aluminum, which are simply inserted along the cut contour of the plinth. Stickers with matching decors ensure a consistent style.

When decorating interiors, you often have to face the task of creating combined floor coverings, in which, for example, parquet is combined with natural stone, porcelain stoneware, ceramic tiles. Connecting materials that have significantly different expansion rates when changing climatic conditions, end-to-end with a tree is unacceptable. A gap of about 4 mm is left between the border of the parquet and other material, which is filled with elastic sealant or floor sheet cork. Sometimes this gap is covered with a metal transition. These transitions can have different shapes and necessary cases can also be used to combine floor levels of different heights in rooms or at boundaries different types floor coverings.

Aluminum transition sills "Parador", able to withstand heavy loads, ensure a smooth transition between separate rooms With various materials, coatings, leveling differences from 3 to 18 mm (Fig. 66). The thresholds are made to match the color of silver, gold or bronze.

"Parador", capable of withstanding heavy loads, provide a smooth transition between individual rooms with different materials and coatings, leveling differences from 3 to 18 mm (Fig. 66).

The thresholds are made to match the color of silver, gold or bronze.

To hide the gap between floor coverings of the same height, special transition thresholds are used (Fig. 67), and for an accurate connection flooring with a threshold and other elevations, a final profile is used (Fig. 68).

From solid wood of various types of wood, the CHERS company produces various profiled and veneered skirting boards, as well as overlays, frames, and sill moldings (Fig. 69, 1-15).

When installing coverings made of linoleum and plastic tiles, polyvinyl chloride skirting boards are glued to the wall or partitions. The surface of the walls to which the plinth will be glued is thoroughly cleaned of wallpaper, uncured paints and other contaminants. The back side of the plinth is roughened with sandpaper. At the ends, cut to size, the skirting boards are cut on the edge with a chisel and a hacksaw.

After such preparation, the back side of the plinth is smeared with a flat brush with a thin layer of quick-drying glue 88N or KN-2 (KN-3) and allowed to dry for 10-15 minutes. When the first layer of glue dries, the surface is covered with glue again and the baseboard is left to partially dry the adhesive layer for 5-10 minutes. After this, the plinth is applied to the wall, pressed tightly and rubbed with a clean rag. When installing, a gap of 1-1.5 mm is left between the plinth and the floor surface to prevent deformation of the floor covering due to temperature changes in the room.

Wooden baseboards are nailed to pre-installed plugs in the wall.

When installing a monolithic mosaic covering, skirting boards can be made locally using a template strip using the following method. After 2-3 days. After laying the covering, they begin to install the skirting boards - decorative rollers, framing the floor along the perimeter of the walls. The location of the future plinth is moistened, a shaped template strip is installed and loaded. Then the mosaic mortar is laid in the gap between the wall and the batten with a trowel. Having filled the gap to half the height of the template strip, it is compacted with the edge of a trowel, after which the gap is filled to the upper edge of the template, compacted again, excess mortar is removed and the surface is smoothed with a clean trowel.

After the solution has set, the templates are removed, small holes and chips on the surface of the plinth are repaired with the solution, and the finished plinth is covered with a moistened cloth until the solution has set.

Finished skirting boards should not have protrusions or other defects visible from a distance of 3 m.

The presence of a plinth around the perimeter of the floor finishing is a familiar factor for everyone. There is no plinth except in rooms decorated with ceramics - bathrooms, showers, toilets, if the tiles of the outer rows of walls and floors are carefully adjusted, and the line where the horizontal base meets the vertical one is an even thin line left after filling the joint with grout. But floor plinths are often found in such a situation.

Walls are connected not only to the floor, but also to the ceiling, so using a plinth along the upper edge of wall surfaces is widespread effective technique in the implementation of decorative cladding of the ceiling base.

Examples of using skirting boards in artistic finishing of joints: on the left - along the floor, on the right - on the ceiling.

Let's consider the technologies for baseboard design of bases, including, in more detail, a separate subgroup of materials “plinths for suspended ceilings”, which differ in characteristics and functionality from means for floor installation.

Plinth as an interior element

In progress civil works When building housing, it is important to ensure that the building envelopes are joined correctly to each other, that is, that the joints comply with the design, carried out with the calculation of all the loads experienced by the building. Upon completion of the construction and installation work, when they begin finishing, including the interconnection of building elements with each other, aesthetics and functionality become the main criterion for the quality of work.

The main means used to design the joints of vertical surfaces with horizontal ones is plinth (fillet, molding, baguette) - an overhead part mounted along the mating line of the bases.

Ceiling molding: on the left - a fragment of wood, on the right - from MDF, installed and finished

The straightness of the edges of the plinth moldings in combination with decorative texture the front part not only hides defects in the geometry of the mating bases, but is also important element decoration interior

Purpose of fillets

Skirting boards are designed, at a minimum, to hide visual defects at the joint lines of adjacent planes. But when producing this finishing material, minimalism has long been no longer a priority, since molding manufacturers focus on consumer demand, determined by aesthetics, high-class decorative workmanship and functionality of the products.

Wooden plinth moldings: classic and decorative

Skirting modern production, including ceiling, is used for the following purposes:

• How additional element formation of a certain interior style;
• to give the finish completeness;

Ceiling fillets various classes execution: strict classical and artistic

• as a channel for cable wiring;
• for decorative purposes string cornices under the curtains;

Functionality examples ceiling fillets: on the left – a box for wiring, on the right – decoration for the cornice

• to fill the gap between the stretch ceiling and the walls;
• as a means of masking traces of spot repairs of elastic ceiling cladding in areas adjacent to walls;
• for installation of additional lighting from LED strips.

Illuminated moldings: floor and ceiling placement

Types of ceiling plinths

Manufacturers of plinth moldings use many options for their design, differing in size cross section, profile configuration and design, decorative design front part, material of manufacture, color, etc.

Ceiling plinths made of wood and polyurethane

Some types of this finishing element can be used both for floor installation and for ceiling decoration, while others are installed only on ceiling bases that are not subject to mechanical contact with the interior and residents.

Samples of wooden skirting boards: floor, universal, ceiling

fillets ceiling use taking into account the specificity of their location, they are made of materials with a low specific gravity in order to reduce the load on the fastening and prevent injury to residents in the event of a fall of the product from a height:

• polymers;
• MDF (fine fraction);
• pressed cardboard with lamination;
• gypsum;
• wood.

Materials are arranged in the direction of increasing their cost, but in each group the price range is quite wide, as it depends on the type of raw material and the class of artistic execution of the elements.

Ceiling fillets: on the left – from MDF, on the right – from pressed cardboard with lamination

Each of the listed types ceiling skirting boards There are many subspecies, which allows you to choose the material that best suits the required functionality and design.

Polymer skirting profiles

This group of moldings includes several varieties that differ in the type of raw material - polymer and, accordingly, characteristics. The place of application of polymer fillets depends on the individual strength properties of the manufacturing material:

• polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene);
• polystyrene (extruded foam, penoplex);
• duropolymer;
• polyvinyl chloride (, plastic).

Foam moldings

Polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene) is polystyrene granules foamed under the influence of hot steam.

The foam baseboard profile has a granular internal structure, but the front surface, which can be flat or figured, is smooth.

Foam molding: with smooth and shaped front surface

This type of fillet has low strength characteristics, therefore used only on ceilings. Such a baguette is the most budget-friendly option for designing joints of ceiling bases, which is due to its low cost, but this does not mean that the material does not justify its use - it has wide range advantages, both common to all polymer fillets and individual:

• absence of harmful emissions into the air;
• the smallest of all types of moldings specific gravity(15–35 kg/m3, 98% of volume – air);
• ease of cutting and fitting;
• possibility of installation on budget mixtures;
• suitability for filling with gypsum compounds;
• possibility of making spot repairs and multiple painting;
• moisture resistance;
• low moisture absorption coefficient - up to 3%;
• does not support combustion.

Decorative design of the front surface of foam fillets

But this type of ceiling moldings also has disadvantages:

• lack of resistance to chemicals - finishing (puttying, painting) is possible only with water-based materials;
• low surface strength - dents remain even from finger pressure during installation;
• low heat resistance - proximity to a powerful lamp is fraught with melting.

Disadvantages of foam profiles often include lack of flexibility.

If we mean the impossibility of repeating the unevenness of the base with a baguette, then flexibility in this case is inappropriate - it will visually emphasize the defects of the plane even more, while a straight one will, on the contrary, hide it. The need to seal the gaps between the molding and the depressions on the plane is only component technologies for masking defects, not inconvenience.

As for the unsuitability of foam fillets for making oval-shaped joints, this is rather a feature of the use of this material, which, by the way, also exists in wood, but is not classified as a disadvantage.

Polyurethane fillets

Polyurethane, superior to rubber in a number of characteristics, is similar to duropolymer, but, unlike it, it is produced without the use of toxic substances such as styrene.

Polyurethane moldings are flexible, highly resistant to impact and other mechanical influences, and are not subject to shrinkage when long-term operation and linear expansion with temperature fluctuations.

A visual representation of the properties of this polymer can be obtained in comparison with a similar elastic material, for example, rubber.

comparison table characteristics of polyurethane and rubber

Polyurethane fillets are available in white and colored, with a smooth front surface or three-dimensional ornament, are easy to cut and adjust, and are suitable for uniform and durable coloring.

Important! When fastening and finishing polyurethane skirting boards, you cannot use adhesives and paints based on aggressive solvents - you must use special glue and oil- or water-based paints.

Moldings made of polyurethane: on the left - for painting, on the right - decorated with gilding.

Polyurethane profiles are more expensive than skirting boards made of foam plastic or polystyrene, but cheaper than gypsum ceiling moldings, while outperforming gypsum products in the clarity of contours. The smooth surface texture simplifies everyday care, allowing you to clean it without leaving a trace with household products. detergents.

Ceiling decoration and doorway ceiling fillets made of polyurethane

Polyurethane skirting boards - safe and environmentally friendly finishing material, which allows it to be used in rooms for all purposes, including children's rooms.

Ceiling moldings made of PVC (polyvinyl chloride)

Skirting boards of this type are closer in purpose to baguettes, since they are not used independently, but as a contour-clip around the perimeter of the room under the ceiling. The PVC baguette has longitudinal groove for installing plastic lining into it - panels joined together by interlocking edges.

PVC molding in various colors and plastic lining

Polyvinyl chloride ceiling plinth, as a rule, has small cross-sectional dimensions, but its front side can be not only monochromatic, but also with an artistic pattern applied. However, this kind of design is not durable, and over time the elements lose their aesthetics.

PVC baguette with connecting fasteners: decorative and plain

Installation of baseboard moldings on a ceiling base

Installing skirting boards on the ceiling is a responsible operation, an error in which can result in loss of the effect of finishing the room as a whole, since the ceiling is more open to view than the floor. Therefore, when installing fillets, all of the following components of this procedure are equally important:

• marking the base;
• cutting skirting boards into fragments;
• fastening moldings to the base;
• sealing joints between fragments;
• painting the mounted contour.

There is no universal technology for installing skirting boards on the ceiling, since the installation method depends on a number of factors, including:

• method of finishing the ceiling base;
• molding material;
• fillet designs;
• design functionality of the plinth contour.

One of the components of laying ceiling plinths is cutting fillets to size, taking into account the angle of joining of adjacent fragments, regardless of the material of the products and can be considered as common for installing all types of moldings.

How to cut a ceiling plinth

Hiding and decorating the connections between the walls and the ceiling, the fillets themselves must have the correct joints. That is, linear joining of elements after finishing should not be noticeable, and corner connections should be made as tightly as possible - without gaps.

The design location of most enclosing structures joining together in a room is perpendicular to each other, the angles between them are divided into internal and external. This means that the ends of the plinths joined at the corners must necessarily end with a cut at 45 0 - inward or outward.

Important! For wooden moldings, the ends are cut to 45 0 in order to join the ceiling plinth Not only in corners, but also in straight sections - this technology makes it easier to disguise the connection during finishing.

Most skirting boards are attached to the base not flat, but at an angle, so it will not be possible to cut them correctly by laying them flat and using a protractor.

So how to cut docking the angle on the ceiling plinth can be done in several ways,

Let's start with the most effective - cutting with simple device called a “miter box”, which is a U-shaped box of three panels, on two opposite walls of which there are template cuts for common angles. In simple devices they are located at 90 0 and 45 0 (sometimes 30 0) to the walls; in a more advanced tool, the cutting angle can be set to any value.

Miter box: fixed and rotary

Using a miter box for slicing ceiling or floor plinth allows you to cut profiles from any of the above materials, even from gypsum, at the desired angle and with high quality, if the cross-sectional dimensions of the fragment allow it to be installed in the device.

The teeth of the cutting blade should be small; you can even use a hacksaw for cutting. It is permissible to cut polymer moldings with a knife, but a thin one and better - with a serrated blade, since the cutting edge will wrinkle the material.

The cutting of fragments begins with the corner one - the profile is placed in a miter box and the end is cut at an angle of 45 0 - in a direction depending on whether it is an internal or external corner.

To avoid errors when cutting, marks are often made on the walls of the miter box near the template cuts, indicating the type of corner (internal or external) and the position of the plinth on it (left or right).

Using a miter box with markings for cutting moldings

Important! The upper and lower edges in the working position differ in length, so the position of the plinth in the miter box when cutting should correspond to the working one on the joint being finished, and both sides of the plinth should be adjacent to the shelves of the device.

Having completed the cut, do the same with the counter fragment of the molding, after which their sections are processed with fine sandpaper on a block, and the correctness of the operation is checked by joining the elements in place.

In more complex cases, when the joining of plinth fragments is performed at angles other than traditional meanings, it is better to use a miter box with a rotating base, which allows you to cut at any angle, and a mechanical inclinometer.

This video will help you get a more complete understanding of this operation:

You can cut fillets for joining in a corner without the help of a miter box; this method is also described in the video. Using a sheet of paper, an imprint of the angle on the ceiling is obtained, after which its bisector is drawn. At right angle Markings on paper are made without imprinting from the ceiling.

The sheet is placed on the work table close to an auxiliary vertical plane - for example, a packing box. The plinth is pressed against the wall of the box in the design position, and the bisector is aligned with the mark on the fragment, after which a hacksaw is used to make a cut in a vertical plane - keeping the blade strictly above the line.

Auxiliary marking for cutting fillets without the help of a miter box

You can also cut the joining angle on the ceiling plinth locally - on the ceiling. To do this, the contour lines of the moldings and the bisector of the angle on the ceiling are drawn directly onto the bases with a pencil. After which the fillet is applied to the design location in the working position, and a line is drawn on its surface with a pencil - a visual continuation of the line along which the cut is made.

The quality of joining fragments made in this way is most often inferior to the method using a miter box, and it is necessary to modify the joints with leveling mixtures.

Marking the cut of fillets on the ceiling: internal and outside corner

There is another way to join skirting boards at the corners, when the end of one fragment rests on front part the second, for which a corresponding profile is given to it with a knife. But this technology is rarely used - when the requirements for the quality of connections are not high.

Having cut the baguettes to size, they begin to install them, the technology of which depends on the following factors:

• type of finishing of the ceiling and walls;
• fillet material.

There can be many possible combinations of these factors, which also differ in nuances, so let’s consider the most common of them.

How to glue ceiling plinth

Installing fillets with adhesive compounds is the most popular installation option, allowing you to secure most types of lightweight baseboard moldings. In this case, first of all, it is important to choose the right glue so that it is compatible with the finishing of the bases and the profile material, provides the necessary fastening strength and does not harm the aesthetics of the finish.

The most questions regarding the technology of work arise when there is an elastic decorative cladding on the ceiling, which is a self-supporting shell.

For suspended ceilings most are suitable types of ceiling plinths, with the exception, perhaps, of gypsum.

Most a budget option designing a technological gap in the fastening baguette around the perimeter of the room - fill it with a special molding made of PVC or polyurethane, selected according to size, color and profile.

Samples of colored sealing tapes for tension flow mounting profiles

Such a plastic plinth is simply inserted tightly into the gap and joined at the corners by trimming the ends or using auxiliary connecting fittings. If desired, this accessory can be painted with automotive synthetic enamel if desired color was not on sale.

Varieties of cross-sections of slot moldings for suspended ceilings

The accessory is also convenient as a temporary means of finishing - it can always be dismantled and replaced with a plinth large sizes cross section or install on top of the profile.

If the room is spacious, then it is better to use plinth for a stretch ceiling not only as a means of hiding the gap, but also as an additional decorative element.

Nothing can be attached to a stretched elastic fabric, so you need to glue the ceiling plinth to the walls, maintaining a fixed gap of 3-5 mm with the film.

Layout of the molding relative to the tension fabric

Fillers for this installation method should be made of materials with a low specific gravity - polystyrene, foam plastic, polyurethane, duropolymer. But even for these materials, the area for gluing the rear part of the profile to the wall should be sufficient, so you should choose products with a cross-sectional profile in which the vertical part is approximately twice as large as the horizontal one. Installation of small fillets made of polystyrene foam and polystyrene can be done by point fastening, even on wallpaper; for moldings made of polyurethane and duropolymer, continuous strip fixation of the elements on the wall is necessary.

Let's take a closer look at how without contact with the suspended ceiling glue to walls without wallpaper ceiling plinths made of foam plastic.

Position of the fillet with elastic ceiling cladding, on the right – option with illumination

The surface of the walls must be pre-primed and dry. Primer example – water solution latex proportion 1:5.

If the fillets are planned to be painted after installation, then it is better to apply the first layer before installation - this will reduce the amount of labor-intensive painting at height.

Having attached the fillet to the wall under the ceiling and lowered it down until the required gap with the ceiling plane is formed, draw a line along its lower edge with a simple pencil. This line is continued along the perimeter of the entire room, controlling its horizontality with a bubble level.

Marking the wall for laying moldings

Using a miter box and a hacksaw, cut fragments from the ceiling plinth for installation in corners.

By applying the cut fragments to the design locations, depressions more than 3 mm deep are identified on the walls. If there are any, marks are applied on the back side of the fillets, indicating the boundaries of the recesses - when installing liquid nails glue is not applied to these areas of the skirting boards.

“Liquid nails” are applied to the lower part of the back side of the corner fragments according to the instructions for use. If mounting surface walls have depressions, then the glue is applied “snake” to the areas of the moldings that are in contact with even spaces.

Applying glue to the back and end of the molding

If there are no defects on the base, in order to save money, you can apply “liquid nails” pointwise - in dots or stripes of 3-5 cm with an interval of 15-20 cm, and between them coat the baseboard with PVA glue of the paste variety.

On walls with depressions, corner fragments are applied to the base and, without applying significant force, are pressed against its flat areas. Excess glue that appears is immediately removed dry with a clean rag, spatula, or finger.

Removing excess adhesive mixture

Important! After the entire plinth has been installed and the “liquid nails” have finally hardened, the gaps between the fillet and the wall opposite the depressions must be filled with putty and painted to match the color of the molding - in this way, surface defects will be hidden by the preserved evenness of the baguette, and not emphasized by its curvature when repeated wall profile.

If the wall does not have surface defects, the task is simplified - the foam profile along its entire length is glued to the base with the vertical part of the contact area of ​​the back side.

Installation of polystyrene ceiling moldings on gypsum putty

Depending on the dimensions and weight of the fillets, instead of " liquid nails» You can use gypsum-based putty, applying it in a continuous layer to the mounting plane of the back side of the plinth and removing the excess before it hardens after pressing it against the wall.

After finishing the corners, they begin laying the foam profile in straight sections, which is done using the same technology, but an adhesive composition is also applied to the abutting ends of the fragments before installing them.

Installation of fillets between corner sections of profiles

From the description of the technology it is clear that gluing the plinth to the tension (film or fabric) ceiling - a figurative expression, since in fact the fillets are attached to the wall, and the technological gap with the ceiling is used rationally - to install lighting from LED strips.

Painting the ceiling plinth

It is not always possible to select fillets of the desired color. To simplify the solution to this problem, a group of the most popular products - skirting boards made of polystyrene and foam plastic - are produced in white so that the consumer can choose the optimal color finish for these decorative elements.

Let's take a closer look at how to paint ceiling plinths made of lightweight polymers, since they are most often decorated in this way.

The question often arises whether it is necessary to in general paint the polymer fillet if it is standard White color fits into the interior of the room.

Let's imagine the rationale for painting such moldings:

• foam ceiling plinth need to paint, first of all, in order to hide its coarse-grained structure, which shines through the smooth surface of the front part;
• painting will hide traces of leveling with putty at the joints of fragments, which is noticeable even on a white background;
• The paint and varnish coating will protect the porous surface of the fillets from persistent contamination and facilitate routine maintenance.

Considering that polystyrene and foam plastic are destroyed upon contact with aggressive solvents and paint and varnish materials Based on them, polymer fillets need to be painted with water-based compounds - acrylic, latex. You can even use an aqueous solution of gouache if, after drying, you cover the product with acrylic varnish.

Important! If a color additive is used when preparing the final paint and varnish composition, then the quantities ready-made composition It should be enough for 3 layers - repeating the color twice when tinting will not work.

To make your work easier, you can prime and apply the first coat of paint before installing the baseboards. It is better to use the primer with the same paint that is planned for their final design, but diluted by a third with water.

Preliminary priming and application of the first paint coat

The fillets that have dried after priming are mounted in place, after which the joints of the fragments and the gaps between them and the wall are filled with gypsum-based putty (for finishing purposes). After the leveling mixture has dried, the joints are sanded with fine abrasive sandpaper, which does not leave scratches on the plaster. Repair areas are cleaned of dust and re-primed.

Before proceeding with further painting of the skirting boards, it is necessary to protect suspended ceiling from associated pollution. Use for this purpose masking tape undesirable - its adhesive side can leave marks on the film that are difficult to remove. Therefore, it is better to use white paper cut into strips (not newspaper) - moisten it in a soap solution and stick it on the canvas along the baseboard.

Protecting Vinyl Ceiling Shell from Paint

The fillets are painted paint brush with a pile of medium length and hardness. As a rule, applying two additional layers is enough to completely form the surface, hiding traces of the presence of leveling mixtures.

Important! To avoid the appearance of streaks when painting, the first layer is applied towards the light (window), the second - towards sun rays. Each subsequent layer is applied after the previous one has completely dried.

Polymer fillets after final painting

After the paint has dried, the paper protective strips are moistened with water and easily removed from the vinyl film or fabric.

Conclusion

Despite the fact that the article discusses the main types of ceiling fillets, the installation of each type requires an individual approach, the availability of which depends on the experience of the performer. Therefore, having made a choice in favor of one of the materials and decided to install it yourself, it is better to consult with a professional, since certain nuances of the technology in the absence of experience appear unexpectedly and can cause damage to the material.

The main point of the article

1. Skirting is a finishing material that not only masks visual defects in the interfaces of enclosing structures, but is also an independent element of interior design.
2. Ceiling fillets are visually completely accessible finishing elements, so the quality of their execution and installation must be high.
3. Knowing the characteristics of the manufactured ceiling plinths, it is not difficult to choose a material that technically meets the operating conditions, but errors in its installation will lead to a decrease in the effectiveness of finishing the room as a whole. Therefore, each type of ceiling molding corresponds to a specific installation technology.
4. A suspended ceiling is a self-supporting base, but this factor does not exclude the possibility of using fillets. The technology used is not complicated, but requires compliance with the requirements for the profile material, accuracy when joining fragments and fasteners.
5. Most mistakes when installing polymer moldings are not critical; leveling putty and painting will help correct them.
6. Professional advice for self-installation ceiling plinths will eliminate unexpected nuances associated with the features of your home.

Quite often, indoor renovations are completed by installing and painting the baseboards. The plinth allows you to finally decorate the room and give it a certain attractiveness. There are several options for skirting boards, installed both on the floor and on the ceiling. We will learn further about what paint to paint the baseboard and the features of this process.

Floor plinth for painting: types of floor plinths

The plinth plays the role not only of an aesthetic element of the room, it also fulfills a certain functional load. Yes, installation on the floor wood covering, requires the arrangement of a compensation gap, which is hidden behind the baseboard. The absence of this gap leads to deformation of the floor covering.

With the help of a plinth it is possible to hide certain communications that spoil appearance premises. The plinth is a transitional element from the ceiling to the walls and from the walls to the floor; it creates a certain harmony of color.

There are many options for floor skirting boards, which vary in shape, color and material.

The first version of the floor plinth is the most popular and ancient. For its production it is used natural wood. There are many options for wooden skirting boards, in different price categories, quality and species. A wooden plinth involves painting it in a certain color or varnishing it. Periodically, wooden baseboard painted during use.

Veneered type plinth - has wooden base And decorative coating. To protect the veneer, its surface is covered with melamine film. Veneered plinth is less expensive than wood, but it is resistant to moisture and temperature fluctuations.

The easiest plinth to maintain and install is made of plastic. It is suitable under carpet, laminate and linoleum. Majority plastic skirting boards The texture resembles wood, but has higher performance characteristics. These skirting boards are distinguished by the presence of special channels inside which wires can be hidden.

MDF plinth is installed on flat wall, consists of a special strip that has a high mechanical strength. Apply to the surface of the plank paper base, forming the color and texture of the baseboard. This version of the plinth is environmentally friendly, resistant to temperature changes, and hygienic.

Aluminum floor plinths are rarely used in residential areas. Its use is relevant in industrial establishments. This version of the plinth is highly durable, hygienic and has a long service life.

The polyurethane version of the floor plinth is widespread. It is not afraid of moisture, so it is great for kitchens and bathrooms.

The paintable flexible skirting board made of polyurethane has good performance characteristics and can be easily installed indoors, repeating its shape. Due to flexibility polyurethane baseboard it is able to hide the largest irregularities in the walls. In addition, the product is characterized by the presence of grooves inside which wires are installed. Among the advantages flexible skirting board for painting we note:

• light weight of the product;
• simple and quick installation;
• resistance to mechanical loads;
• resistance to moisture and temperature fluctuations;
• use in various rooms: both in the bathroom and in the bedroom;
• Possibility of self-coloring.

Floor plinth for painting: technology for painting floor plinth

Not each of the above options for floor skirting boards is suitable for painting. Some models are sold ready for installation and do not require additional finishing.

Most often, skirting boards made from fine-grained wood are used indoors; such products are sold both painted and unpainted. Buying skirting boards for painting has many advantages, such as:

• perfect surface smoothness;
• the presence of a primer layer that provides additional protection for the baseboard;
• high level of permanent strength;
• the ability to repaint the product in the desired color;
• ease of installation;
• masking the joint between the floor and the wall.

The process of painting skirting boards is quite complex and begins with choosing suitable color. When choosing the color of the baseboard, take into account the color of the floor and walls, the shade of the furniture in the room, the size of the room, design, main and additional lighting.

1. Paint the baseboard to match the ceiling or floor. With this move it is possible to increase the volume of the room.

2. If the room has low walls, then the baseboard should be painted to match the wall, so the walls will appear higher.

3. Another option is to paint the baseboards in the same color as the door frame, thus making it possible to harmoniously connect them together.

4. If light and discreet colors are used in the decoration of the room, then you can paint the baseboard in contrasting and bright color. Thus, it is possible to achieve emphasis on this element.

For MDF manufacturing For wooden baseboards, plywood and a layer of paper are used for painting. The presence of a melamine coating protects the baseboard from moisture and other irritants. This version of the plinth is easy to install and maintain. There are options MDF skirting boards with a pattern already applied or for painting.

There are two MDF option skirting boards for painting:

• light gray;
• white plinth for painting.

We invite you to familiarize yourself with the technology of applying paint to floor skirting boards from MDF:

1. Painting the baseboard is done only after completion installation work. In order to prevent the paint composition from getting onto other surfaces, cover them with masking tape.

2. Before you start painting the baseboard, sand it using fine-grit sandpaper. Thus, lint will not rise on the surface of the panel.

4. To paint the baseboard, use a standard brush, the size of which directly determines the size of the baseboard.

Choosing coloring composition for skirting boards, pay attention to its components. For interior work We recommend giving preference to latex, water dispersion or acrylic base. After applying primer to the surface of the baseboard, begin painting it. To perform the work you will need:

• directly to the baseboard;
• paints;
• gloves;
• brushes;
• polyethylene films;
• containers for water.

Install polyethylene film on the floor. Put on gloves and start painting the baseboard. Do the work carefully, apply the paint evenly, in thin layers. Wait for the first layer of paint to dry and repeat the above steps again.

Painted wooden plinth - painting technology

Solid wood is used to construct wooden skirting boards. This material is highly durable, environmental safety And long term operation. Before starting work, two layers of primer are also applied to the wooden baseboard. It will reduce paint consumption and increase adhesion between the wood and the paint composition.

When painting both the wooden floor and the baseboard at the same time. It is recommended to paint the baseboards first, and then the floor. During the work process, make sure that the paint does not drip onto the floor.

In order to avoid the appearance of drips, a spatula is placed under the extreme part of the plinth, and painting is done using a narrow brush.

If the floor will not be painted, it is recommended to protect it and the walls with masking tape. In order to get a high-quality coating that will serve you for many years, apply paint to the baseboard in a thin and even layer. Coloring big amount paint will cause swelling and deformation of the coating. After applying each coat of paint, wait until it is completely dry before applying the next one.

Painting wooden baseboards - optimal solution for cases when it is not possible to find a skirting board of the desired tone.

What paint to paint the baseboard: reasons for painting the baseboard

Ceiling plinths are most often produced in light color, if the room has a light ceiling, then they will harmonize quite well with it. Therefore, there are supporters of the opinion that the plinth for ceilings on a foam, polystyrene or polyurethane base does not need to be painted.

However, these options for skirting boards need to be painted, even white, for many reasons. Let's take a look at some of them:

• These types of skirting boards quite often contain minor defects in the form of dents and scratches, which become noticeable in daylight; painting can correct this defect;
• polystyrene foam has a loose structure that is translucent, its coloring gives the plinth greater solidity and improves its appearance;
• dust accumulates better on unpainted material, and over time it turns yellow;
• to clean painted baseboards, just wash them with a damp cloth;
• in addition, it is with the help of paint that it is possible to hide the corner joints between the baseboards;
• skirting boards made of wood are also painted, the paint ensures their protection and external factors and improves service life;
• with the help of paint it is possible to create a baseboard of any shade that is in harmony with the room.

The process of painting the baseboard in an unspecified form is more convenient. However, in this case, after installing the skirting boards, the joints between them will remain visible. Yes, and there is a risk of contamination of the baseboard during installation work. Therefore, most often, skirting boards are painted after they are installed on the wall.

If the color of the baseboard and ceiling match, they are painted at the same time. At the same time, it is better to do this after completing final finishing walls in the room. Before applying the coloring composition to the surface of the ceiling plinth, it is recommended to coat it with a primer. It can be applied before fixing the skirting boards to the wall.

A rather important issue is the choice of paint composition for finishing the baseboard. To paint the baseboard for painting, you need to use paint that has water base. Polystyrene foam, polyurethane - destroys alcohol, solvents such as white spirit and other aggressive substances.

Therefore, when painting skirting boards, it is recommended to use acrylic, latex or water-based paints. If the skirting board is painted before its installation, then it is allowed to use paint in a can. Thus, it is possible to speed up the work process. If you need paint of a certain color, but could not find it in the store, you will have to tint the coloring composition yourself.

How to paint foam baseboards

Before painting the ceiling plinth, it is necessary to prepare the surface for work. Eliminate defects between connected parts in the corners, get rid of scratches and dents.

In general, before you start applying paint to the baseboards, do the following:

1. Provide yourself with a sponge or soft rag, a container of water and a rubber spatula. Using a putty knife, spread the putty where two skirting boards meet or where there are imperfections on the surface of the skirting board.

2. To remove excess putty, use a sponge soaked in water. If there are joints between the baseboard and the wall, also seal them with putty solution.

3. Wait for the putty composition to dry completely and sand the surface with special tools.

4. After this, proceed to painting the baseboards.

The process of painting skirting boards is quite simple if you follow all the technological aspects of it. The nature of the work is determined by the stage of painting, whether this process is the final one in finishing the room, or after that the wallpaper will be glued to the wall. On initial stage work, it is necessary to clean the baseboard from dirt and apply a layer of primer to it.

If the plinth is painted before finishing works on the ceiling and walls, then in this case it is preferable to use a spray can. The work will pass faster and takes little time. If the plinth is painted after finishing the walls, then, if necessary, masking tape is installed on the wall and ceiling to prevent paint from getting on them.

If paint does get on the wallpaper, you need to use a damp cloth or sponge to remove it. If you can’t stick masking tape on the wallpaper, then use the option below for painting the baseboards. Take a wide putty knife and install it to the baseboard from the wall side. Paint sections of the baseboard gradually, moving the spatula. After covering the baseboard with paint the first time, wait until it dries completely and repeat the process one or two more times.

Tutorial

Plastering works

§ 14.6. Pulling out platbands and installing skirting boards

When pulling out the platbands (Fig. 79), a lot of time is spent cutting the corners. To speed up this operation and improve productivity, top part Platband 1 is pulled out slightly longer than required in order to then cut off the rod at an angle of 45° and cut the corner not on both sides, but only on one. The lower parts of the side trims 2 and 3 must be pulled until they are completely connected to the window sill rod 5.

Rice. 79. Pulling out platbands:
1 - top trim, 2, 3 - side trims, 4 - right side, 5 - window sill rod, 6 - template

When pulling out the window sill rod 5, it is advisable to make the upper sill on the profile board as narrow as possible and pull it out not along two, but only along one wide lower rule 4, which gives stability to the template 6.

In bathhouses, laundries, on staircase landings, in the halls of residential buildings and other similar places, cement plinths are sometimes installed. Using templates to pull them out is inconvenient and time-consuming. It is best to make a profile trowel and use it to rub the baseboard correctly. It's even easier to cast a plinth. To do this, a wooden plinth with a reverse profile is installed at some distance from the wall and a thick solution is poured into the gap.

The next day the wooden plinth is removed. To make it easier to remove from the solution, it is lightly lubricated with machine oil or other lubricant before installation. After stripping, the plinths are corrected.

The plinth can also be installed from pre-prepared concrete parts.

When building a house or renovating an apartment, it is not always advisable to install expensive types of skirting boards in utility rooms, such as a utility room or basement. In these rooms, in order to save the budget, it would be wiser to make concrete skirting boards instead of installing expensive skirting boards. The production of concrete plinths does not require significant financial expenditure, and even an untrained worker can install it. For quick and high-quality installation of concrete plinths, we recommend that you read the following step by step instructions. It is important to understand that special protection of the material is required.

Step #1. Preparation of consumables.

To make a concrete plinth you need to buy construction market sand and cement, in a ratio of one to three. That is, if you purchased one bag of cement, then you will need to buy three bags of sand with it.

If you do not want to waste time calculating proportions or are not sure of the quality of the cement being sold, then you can purchase ready-made mortar. In terms of cost, it will be more expensive than just buying cement with sand, but ready-made factory mixtures are much more convenient and of better quality than hand-made mortar.

Step #2. Tool preparation.

To install a concrete plinth, you need to get a plinth template. Usually it looks like plaster, but in place smooth surface, has a corrugated shape in the form of a plinth, with angles beveled at forty-five degrees. The template acts as a movable formwork, which gives the shape of the plinth to the cement mortar. You can purchase the template at construction stores, choosing the form you like.

Also make sure you have a spatula, a trough or basin, a trowel and a container for water; all this will be needed in the process of making the solution.

Step #3. Installation.

Remember that the installation of a concrete plinth should never be carried out on wooden surfaces and walls with wallpaper, installation on linoleum-covered floors is also not recommended. Ideal option Installing a concrete plinth involves installing it on a concrete floor or on a ceramic tile surface.

To install the plinth, make cement mortar in a ratio of three to one. Next, moisten the installation site with water and, using a trowel or spatula, place the prepared solution in the joint between the floor and the wall. Take the template and run it over the solution. Remove any excess solution that has come out from under the template using a spatula. Repeat this procedure around the entire perimeter of the room. Corner connections skirting boards should be laid out using bevels on the template, since they are specially designed for this. To prevent the formation of voids and depressions in the baseboard, apply the solution in sufficient quantities.

Step #4. Painting.

After the solution has dried, inspect the baseboard for cracks. If cracks are present, cover them with an additional mixture and wait until it dries. After the baseboard has completely hardened, paint the baseboard with emulsion or paint.

There is another option for painting concrete baseboards; it involves adding dye directly during the preparation of the solution. Which option will be more convenient for you, decide for yourself.

Concrete skirting boards are significantly inferior in aesthetic beauty to their wooden or plastic counterparts. But due to their low cost and ease of installation, they are quite suitable for installation in outbuildings, garages and basements.