Installation of staircase handrail. We make it with our own hands: unusual stair railings and their installation in accordance with regulatory documents. Balusters are an important element of the stair railing
August 10, 2011
The technology for installing stainless steel stair railings involves many stages.
Let's highlight the main ones:
- marking and drilling holes for racks;
- welding of handrails and filling of flights;
- final cleaning and polishing.
In our work we use numerous know-how, we have something to be proud of!
More details:
Process No. 1: Marking and Drilling holes for the posts.
Drilling holes for racks is carried out using drilling rigs with the function of supplying and draining water, using diamond bits. This is the highest quality and currently most expensive technology for preserving your interior in its original form. We use diamond drilling technology to minimize the number of broken tiles. Manufacturer of drilling rigs and diamond bits - Hilti guarantees that 99% of the tiles will remain intact. Diamond drilling technology is fundamentally different from hammer drilling. The hammer drill uses the impact principle, in which cracks are formed and the tiles peel off from the tile adhesive due to vibration. When drilling with an impact hammer, depending on the drilling method, it will be necessary to replace from 12% to 44% of the tiles on which the racks “hit”. Even if the tile does not immediately crack, due to the vibration during drilling with a hammer drill, the tile will come unstuck from the tile adhesive, which will sooner or later lead to a split from the slightest impact. Please note that if there are voids under the tile, then with a 90% probability, with any drilling method, the tile will crack, no matter what technology we use. It is very simple to identify voids: tap the tile in several places, if the sound is clear, then there are voids inside.
In any case, before you can start drilling holes, the tile adhesive under the tiles must be completely dry (usually 48 hours after laying the tiles is enough). Often our clients want us to carry out the work immediately after laying the tiles. Customers are always unaware of how long each individual tile has been in use. By telling us that all the tiles have been lying there for a week, customers sometimes hide that individual tiles that were broken yesterday were only replaced this morning. Naturally, when we drill a fresh tile, it breaks out of its place and the process of work at this place is slowed down for several hours until it is chiselled old glue, they won’t lay a new one and you will have to wait at least another 24 hours for the tiles to dry. Our clients can be understood; fences are always installed at the finishing stage. Clients try to lay the tiles as late as possible to avoid scratches and stains of paint or plaster. Often, customers have no choice but to falsify facts and resort to tricks. Our production department always helps customers who encounter this problem halfway and asks for the most clear and honest information about the condition of each individual tile. Only in this case the total time for completing the work will be minimal. We will always try to adapt to your delivery schedule as honestly as possible, but for our part we ask our clients to be understanding about the downtime of crews due to the fault of subcontractors.
Typical mistakes when ordering our work: “You will go straight for the tilers.” A team of tilers lays 1-2 flights per shift and usually does not lay immediately landings. The option when we “follow the tilers” while they lay tiles on one flight and we drill on the second is not suitable.
Firstly, our team of installers installs fences at least three times faster than tilers. Therefore, we can master a week’s worth of tilers in just 1 day. Moreover, the technology assumes that on the first day we will make groundwork on the first fifty meters: we will drill holes for the racks and place them in their places. Therefore, the minimum volume that must be ready is at least 40 meters for 1 work shift.
Stage No. 2: Welding of structures.
Welding of structures stair railing and other metal structures made of stainless steel is carried out in an argon environment. Welding of ferrous metal is usually carried out with a consumable electrode, but if a jewelry one is needed, decorative seam, and if the equipment allows, then it is possible to do this work using argon-arc welding. We almost always try to cook with argon - it takes longer, but there is no need to cover the floors and walls.
To weld stainless steel, an inert gas is used; due to its use, an argon cloud is formed at the welding point, which prevents oxygen from oxidizing the hot metal in the weld spot. In this case, metal spattering does not occur, as when working with an electrode. The work of an argon welder is a very precious job. The diameter of the tungsten electrode is only 1 mm; it must be as sharp as a scalpel for even welding throughout the entire seam. A high-class welding machine (we use Italian Selco welding machines), it is lightweight, mobile, and has rubberized legs to prevent electric shock when short circuit and does not leave scratches on the floor. Selko devices are high-precision computers with many settings. Thanks to the use of computerized welding machines, it is possible to weld even brass and aluminum. The electronic brain of these devices is very expensive and does not tolerate power surges well, so we ask customers to provide a place of operation good connection to the network alternating current. Complete with welding machine Argon gas cylinders of small capacity (5, 10 liters), or large 40 are always used liter cylinders. Customers are usually scared of such cylinders. Customers are accustomed to seeing them as sources of fire or explosion. But Argon is not flammable or explosive; it is an odorless and colorless gas. It does not explode or burn, it can even extinguish fires - it easily displaces oxygen from the place of combustion and it stops. The cylinders are all the same, but the gases in them are different. Argon cylinders are always gray! Gray cylinders can be transported and stored without additional permits.
The welding process is carried out with a manual argon torch, gas is supplied under pressure and an electrode is inserted inside, to which a current of a certain frequency and strength is supplied. For welding stainless pipes with a thickness of 1.5 mm, currents from 20 A to 60 A are usually used. Let us recall that when welding with argon there is no splashing of hot metal, and you can use argon welding anywhere without fear of damaging the interior of the room.
Stage No. 3: Final cleaning and polishing.
After welding, the seam is a neat bump 1 mm high above the surface of the pipe. To the left and right of the seam there is a uniform bluish coating - burnt but not oxidized stainless metal. After welding, the seam is allowed to cool and processing begins. Grinding is carried out using angle grinders (grinder type) using abrasive materials. They always start with a coarse abrasive with a grain of 40-60 and gradually move on to a fine grain. In our work we use abrasives from HILTI. They are more expensive than their analogues, but provide excellent surface quality. After grinding, we begin polishing using angle grinders with special felt attachments. For perfect shine, you need felt of special purity, perfectly white, without inclusions and pressed in a special way. A heavily pressed one will scratch, a weakly pressed one will fly off the holder. During the polishing process, polishing paste is applied to the felt wheel. Typically, all polishing pastes are made on the basis of fats, which leads to the appearance greasy stains on the walls and floor, and to remove the remaining paste from the product, you need to use turpentine. In their work, specialists from the PerilaGlavSnab company use a special German paste; it is not sold in Russia. This paste does not leave a greasy residue (it is not greasy in its structure). It is erased from the product or from any element of the interior, like ordinary dust.
If the distance between marches is very narrow, it is often necessary to use special tools- three-roll grinders. Each of our brigades has such machines as standard equipment.
Installing stainless steel fencing requires highly qualified personnel. Installers must be trained to work with stainless steel and have at least a fourth category in electric gas welding. Our welders mainly have the 5th (highest) category. Each specialist of our company daily performs the same type of drilling, welding and cleaning of welds. Only many thousands of repetitions can ensure excellent quality of the final product. All specialists of the PerilaGlavSnab company are Russian by nationality, are full-time employees of the company and have been working with us for many years. We do not have downtime, delays in salaries or vacations at our own expense due to lack of orders. We are completely honest with our employees and with our clients. We love our work and strive for maximum quality at every site, in every operation. We are constantly improving our operating technology and regularly training our staff.
We have something to be proud of! We employ only the best of the best, so that our clients are always satisfied with our work, at all stages of installation!
The assembly of the staircase railings is completed by installing the handrail. Not everyone knows how to fasten a handrail, how to do it correctly, reliably and discreetly. We will describe some common methods for wooden and metal stairs here.
Attaching a handrail to the balusters of a wooden staircase
It turns out that wooden railings are the most difficult to make. This is because there are many different ways and techniques of working with wood and almost no ready-made solutions, since each staircase is individual and has its own characteristics. For example, attaching a handrail to balusters can be done using dowels, self-tapping screws, nails, bolts, special ties (zipbolts), and glue. In addition, you can “mount” the railing directly on the balusters and posts, but there are options with an additional strip, which is sometimes called a “rail rail.” And all of these are the “correct” ways to connect the posts to the handrail. We will talk about how to do this in this section.
First of all, cut a piece of the handrail to the required length. This can be a fragment from one support pillar to another, a piece for the entire span - from the upper/lower pillar until the moment of turning. It all depends on the design of the staircase. If there are joints between two fragments, they must be processed well, achieving a perfect match. Then the handrails for the street must be coated with protective impregnations, and then painted/varnished. Afterwards you can deal with the issues of attaching the handrail to the stairs.
How to trim balusters for installing handrails
After installing the balusters on the steps, their tops are on different levels, and you can’t install a handrail on them without trimming them - it doesn’t fit like that. To install the support handrail on the stairs, it is necessary to cut the upper part of the racks at a certain angle. This angle is determined by the steepness flight of stairs, and it does not need to be calculated. It is determined “on the spot”.
To find the cutting angle of the balusters, you can use the tension between support pillars thread. We tie it at the same distance from the tops of the pillars, which are installed at the top and bottom of the span. Where, according to the plan, the lower border of the handrail will pass. Using this stretched thread, we draw a line with a pencil onto the tops of the posts. You can use a thread instead of a thread, or you can also temporarily secure a guide (any flat strip).
This is how it should turn out - the staircase railings are ready for installing handrails
We got the line, now we saw off the tops of the columns on the stairs strictly along it. Next, you can continue attaching the handrail to balusters or posts.
Let me give you one piece of advice: if for the subsequent installation of the railing you need to drill holes for dowels or studs, it is better to do this before trimming. This makes it easier to find the center, easier to hold the drill perpendicular. After the holes are made, you can take a saw/jigsaw and file along the intended markings of the rack.
Connecting balusters and railings with dowels and threaded rods
Let's consider one of traditional ways: fastening the handrail using dowels or pins. For this type of connection, it is necessary to make matching holes in the handrail and staircase railing posts. If you install studs, you can screw them into the holes made in the center of the balusters and install the handrail in the position in which it should stand. After checking that everything is in place correctly, walk along the handrail, tapping each baluster with your fist. The protruding ends of the metal pins will leave a mark on the back of the handrail. Remove the handrail and mark the resulting marks with a marker/pencil for reliability. Now you can drill the holes. With this method of marking the handrail, there are almost no problems with its “fitting” into place.
The second option for marking the handrail for installing pins and dowels is carried out before they are installed in the balusters. First of all, we put the cut piece of the handrail in place. Then, with a pencil, mark on both sides where the balusters are installed. Before making marks, check the distance between adjacent posts below and near the handrail. If they match, everything is fine, we put marks; if not, we adjust the position of the rack and only then make marks. Adjustments are needed to ensure that all the staircase supports are vertical. This will make the railing more secure.
After all the balusters are marked, remove the handrail. WITH reverse side The marks we made are worth it. We draw diagonals between the pairs of lines that outline the baluster. We put a mark at the place where they intersect. Here you will need to drill a hole for a dowel or pin. We find the centers on the balusters in the same way (if there are no holes in them yet). As you understand, with this method of marking the handrail for the railing, problems can arise - the slightest inaccuracy and the handrail does not fit into the post. The good news is that the baluster can be moved within certain limits. As long as it is not fixed, there is a certain freedom, and this can be used when installing the railing. Just move it so that the tenon fits into the groove. In general, you know how to attach handrails to dowels.
To make the installation of the railing more reliable, in addition to dowels or studs, you can coat the connection with glue. This will make the structure more rigid and extend its service life without backlash.
With an auxiliary bar - support rail
Agree that the most easy installation handrails on balusters - through screws or nails. What stops you from making such a decision? An overly unsightly result in the form of fastener caps that spoil the whole look. But there is a very similar method that guarantees good appearance stair railings. An auxiliary bar is used, which is also called a bolster.
The auxiliary strip is cut with a tenon, which in mirror image repeats the shape of the groove in the lower part of the handrail. The flat side is placed on sawn balusters and fastened through (screws or nails - your choice). Don't forget to check the distances between adjacent posts.
Then the upper part of the support is coated with glue and the handrail is “planted”. All. There are no traces of fasteners on the front of the handrail, everything is holding together. The only thing that needs to be taken into account is that the height of the handrail turns out to be slightly larger, since the thickness of the auxiliary plank is added (if the plank is wooden, this is at least 2-3 cm).
There is another way to attach the handrail to the support rail - with small nails or self-tapping screws from below, at an angle. But with this fastening, the caps are visible. They can be disguised using one of the known methods, but it will take a long time...
The easiest way is to screw it with self-tapping screws
As you know, over time, wooden railings become “loose” due to the fact that under load they wobble, the wood fibers become crushed, and play appears. To reduce the possibility of play, when fastening through a plank, two or more screws/nails can be used for each baluster. This will make the handrail mount more rigid.
Also, for greater reliability, the bar can be made of metal. Any thin metal will do. Be it steel or aluminum. But then it will be necessary to either cut the bar to fit the size of the recess in the handrail, or modify the groove so that the handrail fits well on the structure. And one more thing: if the plank is metal, you need to find a universal glue that glues wood and metal well. This handrail mount for stairs is simple, beautiful, and reliable. Suitable for those who decided to make a stair railing with their own hands for the first time.
For spikes of different shapes
It is possible to install a wooden handrail without metal fasteners: with spikes and glue. Spikes are cut at the top of the balusters. Under them, recesses of the same shape are formed in the handrail. Tenon/groove shape - any. It can be a rhombus, a rectangle, a circle, an oval. The main thing is that the tenon and groove match perfectly. This can be achieved by making a template and repeating it exactly on each fragment. The minimum tenon height is 2.5 cm, so the height of the handrail cannot be less than 4.5 cm.
After a tenon is formed on each baluster and a groove is cut in the corresponding place on the handrail, they are glued. When installing the handrail on the balusters, they can be shifted slightly to align the holes. You can use the installed handrail after the glue has dried (the time is on the package).
Connection between handrail and support post
Often the handrail does not go on top of the post, but is connected to its side edge. How to connect the handrail and the post in this case? The easiest way is to, after cutting the handrail at the desired angle, secure it with screws or nails driven in at an angle. The disadvantages are obvious - the fastener heads are visible.
There is another way - to use a zip bolt, which consists of two movably connected studs and a gearbox. For its installation, a technological hole is required, which is made in the lower part of the handrail. It is then covered with a plug to match the wood and it becomes almost invisible. The second advantage of such a connection: it can be tightened (to a certain extent) if suddenly a backlash appears.
You also need to drill holes for the studs under the zipbolt - one in the post and one in the handrail. The technological hole is usually made in the handrail. It is positioned so that it is possible to tighten the thread under the gearbox (the length of this thread is usually 10 mm). The depth of the holes is the size of the studs (from the joint to the edge), the diameter is 1-2 mm less than the diameter of the stud.
IN drilled holes studs are installed. It is screwed into the post and simply inserted into the handrail. A gearbox is installed in the prepared technological hole, in which there is a hole for a hex key (6 mm). We rotate the gearbox so that it is convenient to use the key. Turn the key and tighten the thread, pulling the handrail to the post. This must be done after the balusters are connected to the handrail. By attaching the handrail to the post, you can assume that the railing is installed.
Installing handrails on prefabricated metal fencing
In general, assembling handrails from metal (stainless, nickel-plated, chrome-plated) pipes is similar to a construction set. There are pipes different diameters, decorative elements for them, and a whole set various fastenings. The railings are assembled from all these parts. That’s why they are called “prefabricated”. When deciding how to attach handrails to metal balusters/posts/racks, your task is to choose those elements that suit your task better than others or that you like more than others.
To connect metal posts/balusters to the handrail, there are special ends that are attached to a round/square/rectangular pipe on one side and to the handrail on the other. There are models different types. You just need to find the most suitable one, choose the one you need: according to the size of the racks and the type of handrail.
In metal prefabricated fences, handrails can be different:
- round metal pipe;
- profile (rectangular, square) metal pipe;
- plastic handrail (round, oval or original shape);
- wooden of any profile.
Under each of these handrails there is a fastening, and usually more than one. Choose what you like. They are easy to fasten with clamping bolts. But, for reliability, and if the thickness of the metal allows, all connections of two metal parts weld. - it’s not an easy thing, but if you know how to handle a welding machine, nothing is impossible. Welding takes more time, but such fastening of the handrail will be very reliable.
When connecting elements of a metal staircase with plastic or wood, you must use the fasteners recommended by the manufacturers. Additionally, you can glue the joints universal glue. True, in the case of stainless steel, there is no special sense in this: the grip will be very low. But still…
Attaching a handrail to a welded or forged stair railing
A wooden handrail is usually placed on a forged or welded fence. In its lower part, a cut is made according to the dimensions of the upper lintel of the finished fence. The seating depth of the handrail is about 2 cm. More or less is possible - it depends on your desire. The railings are connected to the handrail with self-tapping screws, which are screwed through the holes in the upper lintel. It is important to choose the length of the fastener: it should be slightly (at least 5 mm) less than the height of the handrail so that the screw does not stick out on the surface.
In this case, installing a handrail on the stairs is simple:
There is also the possibility of gluing a wooden handrail to welded or forged metal railings. When choosing a glue, you need to make sure that it can connect wood and metal. For external stairs (on, for example), you must also pay attention to the range of operating temperatures. Otherwise there are no difficulties:
- apply glue according to instructions;
- press the parts, secure with clamps;
- leave until the glue dries;
- remove the clamps.
To securely attach a handrail to a steel staircase, you can use both of these methods. One does not interfere with the other.
Methods for attaching a stair handrail to a wall
A handrail is attached to the wall if the width of the steps on the stairs exceeds 120 cm. The second handrail is made of the same material and the same shape as on the balusters, but it is attached to the wall.
For mounting the handrail on the wall there is whole line fastenings - brackets - under different profile(round, oval, figured). On one side of the fastener there is a round or square fragment with a flat surface and holes made in it. We install this part on the wall. We select fasteners depending on the material from which the wall is made. We use self-tapping screws if the walls are wooden, dowels for walls made of concrete and brick, and special dowels for fastening to lightweight concrete.
The number and size of fasteners for installing a stair handrail on a wall are selected based on reliability considerations. Manufacturers make at least four holes on each bracket. Here are four self-tapping screws/dowels/nails for each and we install them. When choosing a length, it is better to proceed from the considerations “the longer, the better.” Still, the wall handrail can bear a significant load, so it’s better to be safe than to fly down...
The second part for wall mounting of stair railings - where the handrail itself is attached - can be different. Under round pipes there may be a ring of a certain diameter; there is usually a flat platform under rectangular or square handrails. This part of the stair handrail bracket also has holes so that the railing can be secured. And in this case, the number of fasteners should be equal to the number of holes (for the same reasons).
There are brackets for wall mounting of handrails with different angles tilt They are chosen based on their own ideas about convenience and the planned height of the support. There are also telescopic models that allow you to set the distance to the wall and/or the angle of inclination. There are also end ones wall brackets, which, while fixing the edges of the handrail, also decorate them.
The number of brackets depends on the length of the handrail. Usually one element is placed at the edges, and between them the calculated number, with a distance of 40-60 cm. The smaller load bearing capacity walls, the more often we install wall holders for railings.
Each employee of the company is a specialist of the highest category.
Quality production
More than 10 years in the installation services market.
During this time, we have gained successful experience in implementing the most complex and large-scale projects.
By contacting our company, each customer is guaranteed to receive:
1. A professional team of workers with extensive experience, 2. A full arsenal of high-tech modern equipment, 3. A guarantee of project completion within the specified time frame, 4. The most reasonable prices for all types of services, 5. High-level service and informative consultations.
We have a team of professionals
Our company has existed in the installation services market for more than 10 years. During this time, we have gained successful experience in implementing the most complex and large-scale projects.
Quality production
Using only the best and proven materials, as well as the work of highly qualified workers, is the key to success in implementing your plans.
Speed and quality of installation
Large production volumes enable us to offer customers the lowest prices for railings, without loss of quality and maintaining minimum installation times.
About company
Benefits of working with our company.
- Experience.
- Manufacturing and installation times.
- Quality of work.
- Price.
More than 10 years of work in the industry has allowed us to accumulate a colossal amount of knowledge.
The company's management has specialized engineering and construction education. We can solve engineering problems of any complexity.
We have developed design solutions for design organizations. These solutions comply with all SNIP standards and significantly simplify the work of designers.
The team of welders consists of specialists of the highest category. Argon arc welding allows you to perform work with pinpoint precision and workmanship.
Installation of railings, as a rule, takes place in the final stage finishing works. The speed and quality of installation directly affects the delivery time of the project.
Our specialists carry out installation in the shortest possible time, even on large objects. We leave no dirt or debris behind.
Work culture is one of the main aspects of our work.
Our experience and qualifications of our employees allow us to carry out installation at several large sites simultaneously. Large production volumes enable us to offer customers the lowest prices for railings, without loss of quality and maintaining minimum installation times.
Installation of stair railings
Installation of stair railings Each employee of the company is a specialist of the highest category. High-quality production Using only the best and proven materials, as well as labor
Attaching handrails to stairs: installation instructions
Any multi-story building can't do without stairs. This is often the only way to move from floor to floor. It goes without saying that in large shopping centers and similar enterprises all work is carried out by contractors. But if you are installing a staircase in a private house, then you can make the staircase and railings or handrails yourself, in order to save money.
How to attach the railings?
Wooden railings
Wooden railings consist of handrails and balusters. The handrails perform the coupling function of all balusters, which ensures the reliability and strength of the entire structure. In addition, it provides convenience when moving up and down stairs. To install them you will need a hacksaw, chisel, hammer, square, screwdrivers, level, plumb line, etc.
The installation process itself consists of several stages:
- First of all, the outer cabinets are installed, at a height of 80-90 cm from the floor. This is the average height at which a person feels comfortable lifting. After installation, you need to tighten the rope and try to go up and down the stairs, if the height suits you, then leave everything as it is, if not, correct it.
- Then you need to calculate the frequency of the balusters and drill holes in the handrail. The gap between the balusters may vary, but not more than 20 cm, otherwise small children may crawl into them and fall down the stairs.
- Then you should saw off the upper edges of the balusters at the angle of the tense bowstring. The bottom edges remain straight if they are attached to a step or at a similar angle if they are attached to a straight board.
- It is best to mount it with self-tapping screws, having previously made notches on the handrails and steps and tenons on the balusters, additionally placing the entire structure on glue.
Aluminum railings
Installing aluminum railings with your own hands is quite simple and does not take much time. It is produced in just a few stages:
- Before starting installation, you need to make markings on the stairs in the places where you will install the balusters. In these places it will be necessary to make holes 18 mm in diameter and 100 mm deep. Once all the holes have been drilled, you will need to fill them. two-component glue and insert anchors into them.
- Scroll the anchors, you need them to be well fixed, only then inflate the balusters on them. It is necessary to make 2-3 holes in different places so that it can be conveniently adjusted in the future. But overall height holes should not exceed the height of the anchors.
- Place a flange over the top edge, which will later serve as an additional fastening for the entire structure. Lower it to the floor, and put hinges on the top edge.
- Now you need to put the handrail on the hinges and adjust it in height, after which the height is fixed with self-tapping screws, screwing them to the anchors. The flange must be glued to the floor using silicone glue.
- The handrail is fixed to the hinges using self-tapping screws. If the staircase consists of several flights, then all the handrails are connected to each other using rotating elements, which are made in two types: 90 and 135 degrees.
Stainless steel railings
Assembly begins with the installation of racks on the last and first steps. Keep in mind that it is necessary to drill holes for the racks in the middle of the step, 35-50 mm away from the edges, this will prevent chips and cracks. Next, we install intermediate posts, just as in the case of aluminum railings. Depending on the design, you can end the railings with caps or make turns to the next floor.
Forged railings
Installing forged railings with your own hands is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. You can buy ready-made elements; the choice now seems wide. Or you can contact a blacksmith to make it to order, then he will make all the details according to your individual sketches, which will fully meet the aesthetic requirements of your building.
The installation itself requires minimal welding skills. The main thing is to make corners on the steps, and then connect all the parts by welding. Of course, you first need to mark the places where the parts will be welded. When the structure is installed, you need to prime it and paint it in any color you like.
That's all the main types of railing fastenings for stairs. Choose a convenient and acceptable way for you and go ahead to decorate your favorite home or make your own beauty salon. Remember, everything is in your hands.
Attaching handrails to stairs: installation instructions
Installation of railings and handrails for stairs is quite feasible with your own hands with minimal construction skills.
Staircase installation: reliability is paramount
Installation of the span: with feeling, with sense, with arrangement
Not only apartment buildings, but private buildings often have more than one floor in height. Installation required to move between levels flights of stairs and sites. This article gives basic ideas about the structural elements of stairs, their characteristics and GOST standards.
Metal frame of staircase structure
Elements of staircase design
When choosing a transitional structure between floors, the average person most often gives priority to beauty and aesthetics stair elements, however, we should not forget that the design of the stairs must first of all meet the utilitarian requirements regulated by GOST, among which safety is paramount.
Staircase design elements
Below are definitions of the main stair elements:
- Span marching type(march) – the number of steps between the platforms.
- The turning area is the horizontal zone between the main flights.
- Stringers are special bases for supporting steps.
- Risers are the vertical elements of a step that close the space underneath it.
- Bowstring - solid wood or metal beam, connecting all steps of the march.
- Balusters are the supports on which the railings of the fence are attached.
Materials for stairs
Depending on what materials the staircase is made of, both the price of the product and its characteristics depend.
For marches and flights the following is used:
- wood is the most common material from which it is easy to make your own stringers, steps and fences,
- metal – has the greatest strength,
- stone is durable and reliable in use,
- glass – a modern original solution,
- concrete and reinforced concrete are the “classics” of modern construction.
Old stone staircase
Main characteristics of marches and platforms
According to GOST, the slope of the march is 1:2 - 1:1.75 ratio of the height to the length of the step, for auxiliary steps - no steeper than 1:1.25. The steps in the march are made identical, comfortable for walking, their number is no less than three and no more than 18. The most common are marches with 10 - 13 steps - this number is considered the most convenient when ascending or descending.
The width of the steps should ensure the placement of a full foot (at least 250 mm), the height should be in the range of 130-200 mm. The fencing of platforms and flights is made with a height of 0.9 m. The width of the flights according to GOST is at least 800-1000 mm, and the width of the platform is not less than the same size chosen for the flight.
Preparation for installation
Depending on the material, the work performed to construct the stairs differs. They can be divided into two stages: preparation of elements and installation.
The installation of staircases and landings by specialists begins with drawing up a project, where they visualize the nuances of operations, the arrangement of structural parts and compliance with GOST.
Based technical documentation elements are purchased or manufactured required sizes: stringers, steps, platforms and fences. The place of their fastening is marked and, if necessary, enlarged assembly is carried out. At this stage, it is important to comply with GOST requirements for the size and configuration of stairs.
Installation of main elements
Methods of fastening steps
The fastening of the staircase elements also depends on the type of material, which determines what characteristics the stringers and other components should have. One thing remains unchanged - installation must ensure rigid fixation of flights of stairs and landings to load-bearing walls. This is the price of security.
Installation of fences
Fencing of flights and platforms is one of the important components of the stairs. Its primary task is to ensure safety (protect against a possible fall) and ease of movement (serve as a support when ascending or descending).
- balusters – vertical or horizontal supports of the fence,
- handrails,
- infill is a fencing element that performs both a decorative function (due to artistic design) and a protective function (limiting the space between the balusters).
The requirements for stair railings are regulated by GOST standards, according to which their height for internal stairs- at least 90 centimeters. There should be no barriers sharp corners and protrusions and have a fire-resistant treatment.
The stairs must be safe for children
Special requirements apply to stairs in institutions where children are located (schools or kindergartens). Here, the design according to GOST must be such as to protect children: it is mandatory to install additional handrails 50 centimeters high.
The maximum gap between balusters is 10 cm. If there are children in a private house, it is worth complying with these GOST requirements when constructing a staircase railing. Exist various methods
fastening fencing balusters to flights and platforms: welding, concreting, fixing with screws - for each material there is its own, most correct, solution. The main condition: the design of the stairs must be safe.
The collected information outlines the main milestones of “staircase construction”. Those who wish to study “narrow” issues in more detail are invited to find answers on our Internet resource or leave a comment with wishes for the disclosure of a topic of interest. For example, more details about GOST requirements for flights of stairs have already been written in the corresponding article.
Staircase installation: reliability is paramount
Installation of balusters and railings with your own hands: methods of fastening and installation
When arranging a staircase with your own hands, it is important to know how to properly attach balusters and railings so that the structure is not only reliable and stable, but also looks neat. The technology for performing such work may differ depending on the materials and design used.
Functions and types of products
First, you should understand the structure of the railings and balusters themselves, their functions and varieties, and only then consider the installation itself. Both of these elements form a fence with handrails, the installation of which in most cases is mandatory for arranging the stairs. Balusters perform the following functions:
- create decorative design march,
- serve as a support for handrails,
- gives rigidity to the fence,
- protect against injury or falling from stairs.
The railings should be installed directly on top of the balusters. They provide convenience and safety for moving up the stairs. In addition, they are a kind of final element of fencing and carry a certain aesthetic value.
Various materials can be combined in one design. At the same time, the methods of attaching such balusters and railings may differ radically. In order to better understand this issue, three main categories of materials used for fencing should be distinguished:
Types of stair railings depending on the material of manufacture
You can also find a combination of metal with glass or plastic and other effective combinations.
Hardware
Let's consider the process of installing balusters and railings with your own hands, starting with metal products. Such elements may differ in the type of alloy used, shape and principle of use. First of all, the following categories should be distinguished:
- Painted iron. The simplest option. Balusters are made of metal tubes, plates or cast elements coated with paint to protect them from rust.
- Stainless steel tubes. Standard option for both residential and office buildings. Goes well with plastic railings. Have nice view and are not susceptible to corrosion.
- Forged elements. Figured and openwork balusters created by cold or hot forging.
Metal stair railings can be made from various alloys
Fastening of such products can be of two types: welded and screw. In the first case, the individual fragments are connected to each other and to the fence frame by welding. The seams should be sanded so as not to spoil the appearance of the structure. In the second case, all parts are fixed with bolts. It is in this way that the railings are attached to metal balusters. Metal supports and wooden handrails are, perhaps, best combination for both interior and exterior use.
The fencing sections themselves are attached to the steps or wall using bolts and support plates. If there are metal parts or fittings, they can be welded.
Methods of fastening metal fences
Wooden fences
Another popular type of design for stairs is wooden fence. Various fastening methods are also available here, allowing you to install railings and balusters made of natural wood. First of all, it is necessary to distinguish between the types of supports:
- Flat - products made from plywood or flat boards.
- Simple planks are planks of wood with a square or round cross-section sawn into the required lengths.
- Figured - made by processing a piece of wood on milling machine according to the template.
- Carved - decorated with carvings, they are the most complex to perform.
Types of supports for wooden stair railings
In order to mount such a fence, you can use several techniques. In most cases, it is better to install balusters directly to the surface of the steps. Can be fixed on stringers if their size allows. In some cases, it is possible to move them beyond the stringers. Balance bars are also sometimes used, especially on march platforms.
The wooden balusters themselves can be fastened in the following ways:
- on glue using dowels,
- using self-tapping screws,
- on metal pins and screw-in hinges.
Methods of fastening wooden fences
The same principles apply to the railings. In order to ensure a level structure, the height and position of each element are checked by level. Top part balusters are sawed if necessary. Handrails are installed on top of the beveled cut.
To avoid problems with the angle of inclination of the fasteners, it is best to use mounting on conformats or screw-in hinges. The latter are especially good for joining elements on turning sections of stairs.
Concrete models
Separately, you should consider the process of installing concrete railings and balusters. It is not always possible to do such work with your own hands alone, since the structural elements often have considerable weight. This staircase design option is more suitable for outdoor buildings, but will also be appropriate in spacious buildings with concrete or stone stairs.
Concrete structures are more suitable for street use
Such balusters are most often made by pouring a solution into a mold. To make them easier to move, you can make half pieces and then connect them using fresh solution. For greater strength, concrete is reinforced with metal. In the future, it is the reinforcement that can serve as the basis for connecting fragments of the fence. Such balusters are welded to a predetermined place, where a metal rod is first placed in the concrete.
An alternative installation option is mounting on a base. In this case, you need to provide a hole in the center in the baluster. It is best to use the same reinforcement as a base. Concrete railings are laid using the same principle, additionally strengthened with mortar. In the future, they can be finished with tiles or stone.
Installation diagram of concrete balusters
To ensure that the installation of fencing with your own hands is done efficiently, regardless of the material, be sure to check the strength of the fasteners and the required level.
Installation of balusters and railings with your own hands: methods of fastening and installation
The purpose of railings and balusters, their main types and methods of fastening fencing elements, depending on the type of materials used.
A flight of stairs is not just steps. Bowstrings, railings, enclosing structures - all these elements together create a unique image of the staircase. Each of them plays his own role, unique to him. But the first thing that catches your eye is the railing. Their orderly row, even visually, creates a feeling of reliability.
Balusters and railings
In order for the first impression to be established and develop into confidence, it is necessary to follow some rules for attaching the railings. Only then will the railings, framed by handrails, perform their intended functions:
- serve as a fence and prevent possible falls from the stairs;
- serve as a support for the handrail;
- play the role of a decorative element and create the mood in the room.
You need to think about what material the railings will be made of at the design stage. On wooden stairs, as a rule, wooden railings are also installed. They are based on vertical racks , which are called “balusters”. They are installed along the outer edge of the steps and can have a wide variety of shapes. Balusters cannot be installed on every step. Then the space between them should be filled with inclined or cross-shaped decorative elements
. The gap between the balusters, fixed through two or three steps, can be filled with carved wooden panels or decorative glass.
If you plan to install them on each step, then the distance between them should be within 150 - 200 mm. For the safety of small children in the house, it is better to stick to the minimum value. But in any case, it is necessary to firmly fix the position of the balusters on the stairs.
Places for fixing railings
- Depending on the design of the staircase and your aesthetic preferences, the railings can be fixed:
- on the horizontal surface of the steps;
- on the vertical surface of a bowstring or stringer (on the side);
on the inclined upper edge of the bowstring. The main condition for reliable fastening of the railings is to fix their position at least in two points. The first, lower point, combines the railing and the lower structural elements stairs - steps or bowstrings (stringers). And the second is railings and handrails. Railings, handrails, extreme and turning support posts
together form a single rigid frame. Its strength must withstand the load of an adult weighing 100/120 kg. The height of the handrail is calculated in such a way that, together with the handrail, it is neither less than 900 nor more than 1000 mm. Then walking up the stairs will not only be safe, but also comfortable.
Railing mounting options Fastening the railings should be done with special care and precision. Wood is a very malleable material. Careless handling of the tool and material can lead to cracks and chips. This is especially true of pine, the softest and most common material for stairs.
- To attach handrails to wooden stairs, three types of fasteners are used:
- on galvanized screws;
- using dowels;
galvanized studs.
If you decide to fix the baluster with self-tapping screws, then you must fulfill some conditions. First of all, it is advisable to tighten the self-tapping screw at an angle of 45°. To avoid cracking, you need to drill a hole of a slightly smaller diameter for it. The head of the self-tapping screw must be recessed by 8 - 10 mm, and a wooden chip must be inserted into the resulting recess. It is placed on PVA glue and cut off after it has set. Then this place is sanded and varnished along with the entire product. When installing the railing on self-tapping screws, you should screw it into the hole just enough so that it slightly protrudes beyond the end of the part.
You can finally tighten it only by installing the baluster in the right place according to the level.
Installation using dowels The dowel is a cylinder made of wood. In the end part of the baluster and in the surface of the step, bowstring or stringer, recesses are drilled into the middle of the length of the dowel. The recesses must be coaxial and of the same diameter. The dowel should fit slightly tightly into place.
The glue provides a strong monolithic connection. Since it is used in most carpentry work, this connection can be considered ideal. However, it is not recommended to use the dowel method for installing balusters or other railing posts if their thickness is less than 60 mm.
Stud installation The most common option among craftsmen is to install railings on galvanized studs. The advantage of this method is that it can go into the parts being connected much deeper than a dowel or self-tapping screw. The recess, having passed the thickness of the step, continues in the stringer. This means that the attachment point will be very strong. The hole for the pin must be drilled strictly along the axis of the baluster.
To do this, you need to secure the drill and slide the baluster itself onto the drill. This procedure should be performed on a table. If installation is carried out on a bowstring, then the pin should fit strictly vertically. Important!
Please note that the installation of all elements on a wooden staircase should only be carried out using galvanized metal fasteners. Installation of enclosing structures using nails is not recommended, even if you recess their heads using a metal attachment. The shank of the nail has a smooth, round surface and cannot "grab" into the wood. Over time, the tree will still give off moisture and dry out. The nail joints will become loose and creak. Installation begins with securing the studs under the lower, upper and swivel support posts. For the unity of the composition, these structural elements have the same design as the railing posts. All other balusters should be located at the same distance from each other. If the flights of stairs are straight, then the center line can be moved using a stretched lace. You can't do this on a screw march. Therefore, it is necessary to transfer the installation points as accurately as possible.
We suggest considering how the railings are installed. In a wooden staircase, the balusters are attached to the bowstring; they are fixed using self-tapping screws or stainless steel brackets installed at the top and bottom. The heads of the self-tapping screws installed in secret grooves are covered with wood plugs. The holes for them are pre-drilled.They are attached to the side of the posts using screws. The most durable option for installing railings is a spike. In such cases, even during the production of structural elements, spikes are created in the handrails, and sockets for them are created in the upper areas. When performing installation, the tenons are pre-coated with wood glue.
Installation on the bowstring using metal pins is allowed. They are glued into special holes in the lower sections of the supports, and sockets are drilled into the bowstring for them. Now you can install balusters for the fence. Installation with sheets is carried out using exactly the same principle. In such cases, the holes are made of a larger diameter, but it is necessary to take into account the cross-section of the bar. If it is less than six centimeters, then experts do not recommend using this method of fastening.
Railing fastening, quick installation
In forged ones made of wood, the material itself is not used. The span is assembled directly onto the steps. For this purpose, a pin is inserted at the bottom of all intermediate-type balusters, the length of which is no shorter than ten centimeters. Initially, the top one is screwed into the step, then removed from the stud, which will serve as a guide for marking connection points in other areas. Holes for iron pins are drilled according to the marks, after which each is screwed into place.
Parts of the racks should be leveled to the same level if necessary. The handrail is installed on self-tapping screws. The same principle applies to installing railings on concrete foundations– wooden railings are installed along the steps. For the device, holes are made in the steps along the markings, the depth of which is at least one hundred and twenty millimeters, and the radius is 1.6 cm. Then anchors are installed to secure the supporting elements. Fixation with flanges is particularly reliable - at least three holes are installed in the step, the flange is inserted, and only then the staircase post is inserted.
Installation of a tread in the end section is recommended in cases where the flight of stairs is not very wide. In this option, holes for expansion anchors are drilled at the ends. They are fixed into balusters and bushings. It is allowed to install a special holder at the end into which the support will be fixed.
The handrails are cut into pieces of suitable length, and holes are drilled into them for each connecting point with the supports. After this, each one is individually secured with screws.
Metal cables or rods and solid glass panels, which are installed on special brackets, are used as fillers.
Installation of the entire staircase structure by professional
carried out quickly by specialists, its essence lies in
certain operations:
⦁ An agreement is drawn up with the customer, defining the deadlines for execution installation work Taking into account the individual characteristics and complexity of flights of stairs, the cost is discussed.
⦁ At the time appointed for assembly, the team arrives at the site and assembles the staircase on site.
Installing forged structures is not an easy task. Therefore, we recommend contacting the company. The most inconvenient thing that happens when installing steel railings is dust from the metal. It is harmful and you need to work in a special respirator, and all things around, if services are carried out indoors, must be closed. We recommend placing an order for installation; the convenience of cooperation also lies in the fact that after the work, debris will be removed, and partial repairs of the walls will be carried out if the structure is adjacent to it. How much the work costs, see the catalog or find out the price by contacting us in feedback.
Mounting methods
⦁ Single. This is the fastest option for fixing the stand. They are mounted on one anchor bolt, fully responsible for the reliability of the connection. Although the work is completed quickly, this option is not the most reliable;
⦁ Anti-vandal. It provides for a device in the floor into which embedded elements are subsequently placed. The fastening points to the racks are covered with the help of special decorative elements. This method of fixation is quite reliable and can withstand significant loads;
⦁ Flange. The stand is attached to a flange element, which is fixed with several anchors. This creates the maximum level of reliability.
When choosing a fastening method, you must take into account
attention to the main requirements of regulatory documents for
permissible loads arising on fences made of
stainless metal:
⦁ Stairs located in residential buildings, kindergartens and schools, medical institutions and entertainment facilities, must withstand 36 kgf per meter;
⦁ For gyms and fitness clubs, as well as stands, this value should be five times higher;
⦁ All other objects must withstand 96 kgf per meter.
Installation of railing structures made of stainless metal has some advantages. An oxide layer is created on the metal, which reliably protects it from precipitation and acidic environments. The nickel used in production, in addition to strength, imparts some ductility, while simultaneously reducing fragility. The result is an alloy of excellent quality, which is not susceptible to corrosion even after being subjected to mechanical processing. To achieve reliable seams, individual parts can be secured using argon arc welding. At the site of such connections it gains additional strength.
Style-Metal manufacturing and installation company
stairs have a number of advantages:
⦁ Specialists have extensive experience in carrying out such work;
⦁ Availability of our own production and storage facilities;
⦁ The work cycle is carried out in full - from initial measurements to complete installation of the product.
