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Insulation of a timber house from the outside with cotton wool under the siding. Is polystyrene foam suitable for insulating a log house from the outside? Advantages and disadvantages of wall insulation in a log house

You should study in advance all offers from manufacturers of thermal insulation materials.

You need to choose the insulation for the walls of a wooden house that best meets the basic requirements for such products. The main requirements are as follows:

1. Low coefficient of thermal conductivity, the material must be light, porous and therefore well insulating;
2. Safety of use, for example, is resistance to combustion, release of toxic gases when heated;
3. Low hygroscopicity, insulation under siding for a wooden house should not absorb moisture. Most insulation materials do not meet this requirement, but for a house made of timber from the outside, due to its rapid rotting when exposed to moisture, this requirement becomes one of the main ones;
4. Long service life, which is important due to the fact that insulation work is carried out once and for a long period of time;
5. Well, last but not least, the cost of the material, although for some owners wooden houses This is not the last requirement and a good result is not the main thing for them.

So, what do manufacturers of materials for insulating wooden houses offer today, what kind of thermal insulation is there? Let's try to decide which insulation is better.

Polyurethane foam spraying

Insulation of a wooden house using foam spraying, in Lately is rapidly gaining popularity.

There are several reasons for this:

• Material is applied in a seamless way and is an excellent insulator;
• Due to the fact that when sprayed, polyurethane foam increases in volume several times, it penetrates even the smallest cracks and reliably seals them;
• The insulation is hygroscopic and protects well wooden structure from the penetration of moisture, which allows you to insulate a house made of timber and not worry about the fact that under a layer of insulation it will quickly become unusable;
• If there are defects in the log house of a wooden house, thanks to the use of polyurethane foam, it is possible to significantly increase the service life of the log by cleaning it and treating it with foam;
• The thickness of the foam application is chosen by the customer and can start from 1 cm;
• Polyurethane foam does not require careful preparation for installation; to apply it, it is enough to clean the walls from dirt and dust and lightly moisten them with water to speed up the polymerization process;

Thus, insulating an old wooden house from the outside under siding using polyurethane foam, even despite its rather high cost, is one of best options.
Next, we will consider a budget option for insulation for a wooden house - polystyrene foam.

Styrofoam

Expanded polystyrene, or popularly known to everyone as polystyrene foam, is the cheapest, but not the worst option for insulating a log house from the outside. Its thermal characteristics are high, hygroscopicity is low, which allows it to protect wooden structures from moisture penetration.
The main disadvantage of polystyrene foam is that rodents simply adore it. Due to the fact that the material crumbles easily, mice often make their nests in foam plastic. Thus, the insulation gradually deteriorates and the thermal characteristics of the house decrease. To combat this phenomenon, during the installation process you can use special impregnating materials that repel rodents, but as practice shows, this is an ineffective method of protection.
To fasten the material to the walls of a wooden house, any available fasteners can be used. These can be nails, screws, various adhesives.

The next modern material is a derivative of foam called extruded polystyrene foam or it can also be called extruded polystyrene foam. Many manufacturers offer it under their own brand names, for example, penoplex or greenplex. In fact, these are all the same material, which differs only in the manufacturer.

Extruded polystyrene foam

The material came to us from the United States and almost immediately gained popularity when carrying out insulation work on both wooden houses and brick, concrete and other buildings. This insulation is used not only to insulate the walls of houses, but also to create warm foundations, insulation of roofs, balconies and other places that require additional insulation.
The main characteristics of the material are slightly better than those of polystyrene foam, but a relative disadvantage is its high cost. Installing insulation is quite simple and even a person who does not have any skills in construction can carry out insulation using it.
Next, let's look at roll insulation.

Mineral wool

A medium-priced material with high thermal protection characteristics is . The material retains the heat of a wooden house quite well, but does not resist moisture well. To be more precise, if installation is carried out incorrectly, mineral wool can absorb moisture while losing its ability to retain heat, which is the main negative factor in its use.
For this reason, it is necessary to use steam and waterproofing together, which complicates the installation process and leads to additional costs. But in practice, mineral wool is used quite often due to its low cost.

Tools required for proper installation

When starting to insulate a wooden house, it is necessary to prepare in advance all the tools that may be required during the work. Namely:
A screwdriver, you can’t do without it for any type of work related to insulation and;

• Building level or plumb line;
• The rule is at least two meters long;
• Angle grinder (Bulgarian);
• Stationery knife;
• Construction lace or nylon rope for marking;
• Metal scissors;
• Step ladder;
• Extension;
• Hammer;
• Pliers.

Algorithm for proper insulation

Let's take a closer look at the algorithm of how to properly insulate your wooden house from the outside under siding, using sheet insulation, for example, extruded polystyrene foam.

Preparation

The first thing you need to start working on, before sheathing the house, is to free up the walls that are planned to be insulated as much as possible and then decorate the house with siding yourself. To do this, you will need to remove the sills and slopes from the windows. Remove elements that protect the corners of the house if the house is cut into pieces. It is also necessary to carefully inspect the walls for the presence of logs with defects. If such elements are present, they must be treated using any available antiseptic solution, after which the damaged areas can be foamed with polyurethane foam.
Further, work can be carried out in two ways:

1. Proceed with the installation of insulation, and after that install the sheathing and sew it with siding;
2. Install the frame and only then insulate the walls.

Advice: as practice shows, using the first method is much more convenient and insulation carried out in this way is much more effective, since the material is mounted as tightly as possible, and then additionally pressed against the wall using suspended elements of the frame structure.

Installation of insulation

To fasten insulation sheets, it is convenient to use self-tapping screws designed for screwing into wood, at least 70-80 mm long. You can also use regular metal nails. In order to press and not drive the self-tapping screw inside the insulation, it is convenient to use hangers designed for attaching a metal profile. To do this, you need to cut them into small pieces.

Installation of insulation begins from the bottom and gradually moves upward.

Tip: to achieve maximum effect, joints between sheets of extruded polystyrene foam can be foamed with polyurethane foam. It will turn the structure into a monolith and prevent cold penetration through the joints.

Marking and installation of the frame

The next stage is marking. Marking is necessary in order to determine exactly where it is necessary to install the hanging elements, which will later hold the frame elements.
When marking, you need to know the basic rules for installing a siding frame. Namely:

1. The first frame elements are installed at a distance of no more than 10 cm from the corners of the house;
2. It is also necessary to install a metal profile along the edges of windows and doors;
3. The sheathing pitch must be at least 40 cm and no more than 60;
4. Each frame profile must be supported by at least three hangers.

Once the sheathing is in place, you can begin assembling the frame. The profiles that form the basis of the sheathing for siding must be positioned strictly vertically. To control the location, a level and, in some cases, a plumb line are used. The outermost elements are installed first, then the control cord is pulled and with its help the rest are mounted.

Siding fastening

After making the frame, you can begin attaching the siding. To do this, you will need to have sharp 13 mm PN self-tapping screws.

Important: the strips of finishing material are attached strictly horizontally and any deviations from this rule may lead to the fact that the plates above the windows may simply not come together and the work will need to start again.

After the siding is fixed, it is necessary to install slopes and ebbs on the windows, as well as close the internal and outside corners each wall, using pre-made or purchased corners.

Thus, work on proper insulation home using extruded polystyrene foam as insulation is completed.

Now let's look at the main differences between insulation using polyurethane foam and installation of extruded polystyrene foam.

Differences between polyurethane foam insulation

The most basic difference is that polyurethane foam does not require any type of fastening, since when it is applied to the surface, it sticks tightly and after undergoing the polymerization process, it can only be removed mechanically.

The second difference is the application stage. As a rule, polyurethane foam is applied after the profile fastening hangers are installed, this is done immediately after preparation and marking have been carried out. After the foam has been sprayed, it needs a little time to complete internal processes and gain strength, and after that you can continue work on further finishing the house.

Video

Below you can watch a video on how to properly cover a house with siding and insulation. The video shows how to do this, what materials are used. Also in the video you can see what exactly the master does before starting to insulate the walls.

Conclusion

Proper insulation of a wooden house depends not only on how the installation itself was carried out, but also on the right choice material. Some modern materials, are not only insulation materials, but can also additionally protect a wooden structure from moisture and rotting processes.

Insulation is the only correct solution to protect a house from winter cold, summer heat and extraneous noise. Most often, the process of thermal insulation of premises is carried out outside the building and there are several reasons for this. The most significant of them are high efficiency and ease of installation. In addition, external wall insulation does not “steal” precious square meters living space.

The thermal insulation process requires the use of special insulation materials, among which mineral wool is quite popular. About its types, properties, advantages and disadvantages as a heat insulator under final finishing siding and we'll talk further.

Types of mineral wool

According to regulatory documents, namely GOST 52953-2008, three materials can be considered mineral wool: glass, slag and stone fiber. Each of these thermal insulators is different technical characteristics, properties and, accordingly, cost. Therefore, it makes sense to consider them in more detail.

Glass wool consists of pressed and interconnected glass threads (fibers) with a thickness of no more than 15 microns. It is glass fibers that make glass wool a fairly elastic and durable material that practically does not deform during use, does not rot and does not support combustion, which makes it a good insulation material for use in ventilated facade systems (which is what siding essentially is).

Main characteristics of glass wool:

• thermal conductivity 0.03-0.05 W/m;
• operational temperature limit from -60 to +450 °C;

The main disadvantage of glass wool is the fragility of the fibers. Glass dust can cause skin irritation, swelling of mucous membranes and coughing. That is why when working with glass wool you should take care of the means personal protection.

Slag wool is a type of mineral wool that is produced from waste from blast furnaces. The slag is melted and fiber up to 12 microns thick is produced from the resulting mass. After pressing the fibers, a sufficiently strong insulation is obtained, which can subsequently be used for external thermal insulation of brick, concrete buildings and timber houses.

Metal structures cannot be insulated with this material, since slag wool has a high acidity and has an aggressive effect on the metal. In other words, it can cause corrosion of metal structures in direct contact.

Main characteristics of the material:

• thermal conductivity 0.46-0.48 W/m;
• operational temperature limit from -100 to +300 °C;

The disadvantage of slag wool is its high hygroscopicity and a fairly large percentage of a binder based on formaldehyde resin. When insulating a house with this material, you should use personal protective equipment, including a respirator. It is this that will protect against toxic phenol fumes.

This material is obtained by melting raw materials belonging to the group of igneous rocks. The process of producing fibers is practically no different from producing slag wool, except for the concentration of some components and water-repellent impregnations in the finished product.

Characteristics of stone wool:

• thermal conductivity 0.77-0.12 W/m;
• operational temperature limit from -190 to +600 °C;

The disadvantages of stone wool are the same as slag wool: hygroscopicity and the presence of formaldehyde as a binding component. Despite this, stone wool is widely used for wall insulation in private, civil and industrial construction, as well as in the reconstruction of buildings.

Today the most popular type of stone fiber is basalt wool, which, unlike other mineral wool thermal insulation materials, has a minimal concentration of binding components.

Basalt insulation perfectly withstands prolonged heating up to 800 °C, practically does not emit hazardous substances and can be used for insulation of brick, concrete and timber walls for final finishing with siding.

Advantages and disadvantages of using mineral wool insulation

Using mineral wool for home insulation has many advantages over other heat insulators. Among the main positive points you can note:

1. Fire resistance. When the permissible heating temperature is exceeded, mineral wool begins to melt, while retaining its basic properties.
2. High thermal insulation performance. The material ranks second in terms of thermal insulation properties after expanded polystyrene.
3. Vapor permeability. Mineral wool insulation does not interfere with the passage of water vapor through the fibrous structure, which prevents the appearance of condensation.
4. Soundproofing. Mineral wool is an excellent sound absorber.
5. Good elasticity of the material.
6. Resistance to biological and chemical influences. Insulating a house with mineral wool prevents the appearance of fungal colonies and mold on the walls.
7. Easy installation.
8. Long service life.

Despite so many advantages, mineral wool insulation also has several significant disadvantages that must be taken into account when choosing a thermal insulator for insulating a house and subsequently finishing it with vinyl siding.

1. Hygroscopicity. With an increase in moisture in the heat insulator, the thermal insulation properties.
2. Weight. Mineral wool insulation, especially with increased rigidity, has significant weight, as a result of which the material requires fairly powerful support.
3. Phenol evaporation. All mineral wool heat insulators are recommended for insulation of the outside of buildings.

Insulation process

Wooden or timber houses, as a rule, do not need insulation either outside or inside, since wood itself is a fairly good heat insulator. It is justified to insulate a house from solid log or timber in harsh climatic zones and in cases where the wall thickness is insufficient to maintain a comfortable microclimate.

The same can be said about brick buildings. They are in dire need of external insulation. If the walls are not thick enough, such buildings are cold in winter and hot in summer.

The most practical material for thermal insulation of walls is mineral wool. Most experts recommend using vinyl siding as a finishing material.

Let's take a closer look at the process of insulating a house from the outside and creating a ventilated facade by finishing the building with siding.

Preparing the walls

Timber walls should be dried and moss and fungi removed. After cleaning and complete drying, the surface must be primed. Both brick and wooden walls require primers. This process is necessary for better adhesion between mineral wool and the insulated surface.

Lathing

After thorough priming, we move on to filling the horizontal sheathing. For it you can use a wooden beam 50×50 mm or a galvanized profile. Vertical guides are packed in increments of 58 cm. It is recommended that the wooden sheathing for fastening the siding be thoroughly oiled and impregnated with an antiseptic.

The heat insulator is placed between the guides by surprise. You can fix mineral wool on a brick or wooden wall using special plastic umbrella dowels. After fixing the heat-insulating layer, it should be protected from external moisture. This is an important process that prevents moisture from entering the insulation. It is necessary to fasten the hydrobarrier over the entire area of ​​the wall using a construction stapler.

Now you can move on to the final part of the insulation work - filling the vertical sheathing to attach the siding. You can use a wooden strip 30x50 mm. A distance of 30 mm will be enough to ventilate the facade.

As for timber buildings or houses made from solid wood trunks, the algorithm for the insulation process remains unchanged.

Important! Many “sofa experts” recommend laying a layer of vapor barrier directly on the insulated wall, so as not to let moisture from the street into the room. At the same time, such “specialists” almost never take into account the moisture emanating from the room. What will happen in this case: the moisture coming out of the wall will encounter a vapor barrier, between them the humidity will increase significantly, and when the temperature drops, condensation will form on the wooden walls, which will lead to wetting and rotting of the wood, as well as the gradual spread of fungi, mold and others in it troubles.

As you have seen, there is nothing complicated about insulating walls; it is only important to choose the right material and strictly adhere to the sequence of work.

stofasadov.ru

Preparing the walls of the house

At the stage of preparation for external insulation of a wooden building, it is necessary to resolve several issues:

• which insulation is better;
• how to lay it correctly;
• how to prepare the walls of a house.

No matter which one is chosen thermal insulation material, walls made of 150x150 timber need to be prepared. First of all, it is necessary to conduct a visual inspection and make sure that there are no signs of wood rotting, insects harmful to wood, or the need for additional fastening of timber and finishing elements of window and door openings.

At the same time they decide whether the walls need caulking. If empty cracks are noticed, then they need to be filled with appropriate material before laying the insulation. Caulking walls is a simple, but labor-intensive process. Knowing the rules and tricks of this matter will greatly simplify its implementation.

To eliminate gaps between beams, three materials are traditionally used:

• tow;
• jute;
• flax wool, etc.

In the process of work, craftsmen use special wooden devices in the form of spatulas with a thin blade. But to perform the task yourself, an ordinary narrow spatula will do.

• laying stretched insulation;
• laying insulation into the set.

The first is optimal if the gaps are not wide, the second is suitable for deep and long gaps. When caulking, the stretched tow fibers are distributed along the crack in an even thin layer, while driving it into the gap with a spatula. The work must be done slowly and carefully, trying to seal the insulation as efficiently as possible. The tow is driven in layer by layer until the gap is filled.

Laying in a set is done as follows: bunches or balls of tow are formed from the tow, corresponding to the size of the gap, and driven into it using a spatula and a hammer. Regardless of the chosen caulking method, work begins from the bottom of the wall.

Video - How to caulk a house made of timber

Video - Caulking a house made of timber

The choice of material for external insulation of a house made of 150x150 timber

The modern market offers many solutions for insulating a wooden house. The choice largely depends on the climatic conditions of the region of residence. For southern latitudes, one insulation will be optimal, for northern latitudes, another. Therefore, when choosing a material, they are guided by its main characteristics:

• coefficient of thermal conductivity;
• compressive strength indicator;
• frost resistance;
• service life guaranteed by the manufacturer.

For external insulation For houses made of 150x150 timber, the following thermal insulation materials are suitable:

• fibrous (glass wool, mineral wool, stone wool, basalt wool);
• sheet foam;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• foamed polyethylene;
• sprayed polyurethane foam;
• windproof boards Izoplat.

Mineral wool and its analogues

Mineral wool has excellent thermal insulation characteristics, but has one significant drawback: hygroscopicity. Since wet insulation is not capable of retaining heat efficiently, the use of mineral wool in rolls or slabs requires steam and waterproofing of the walls and foundation of the house. This significantly increases the cost of its external insulation.

When choosing fibrous materials the following points must be taken into account:

• air humidity level in the region of residence;
• option for cladding the external walls of a building.

The second requirement is due to the fact that laying mineral wool and its analogues requires wall cladding using ventilated facade technology. Therefore, save on finishing works will not work. If there is any doubt that the mineral wool under the cladding will remain dry, it is better not to use this material.

There are many myths regarding this insulation. One of them convinces us that polystyrene foam releases styrene, which is harmful to humans, into the environment. All these claims have long been debunked by laboratory studies. The safety of polystyrene is confirmed by sanitary and epidemiological conclusion 63.01.06.224.p.001216.03.03 dated April 7, 2003, conclusion 01-188 dated 25.04.00 of the Research Institute of Hygiene and the health of children and adolescents of the RAMS, conclusion No. 03/PM8 of the Moscow Research Institute of Hygiene by them . F.F. Erisman. Therefore, this insulation can be safely used not only for external, but also for internal insulation.

When choosing polystyrene foam, it is important to pay attention to its density. The higher it is, the lower its thermal conductivity. There is an opinion that the density of polystyrene foam corresponds to the digital indicator of its brand. But this is only partly correct. For example, the density of C-25 foam varies between 15.1-25 kg/m3. The table of its characteristics will provide significant assistance in choosing a material.

For external insulation of a house made of 150x150 timber, you can use polystyrene foam of any brand. Manufacturers offer sheets of different thicknesses: 5 cm and 10 cm. When choosing a material, you need to take into account that for facade insulation it is better to buy PSB-S-35 foam plastic 5 cm thick than PSB-S-25 foam plastic 10 cm thick. The cost of these materials almost the same, but the thermal insulation effect will be more significant.

Extruded polystyrene foam (EPS)

EPS has almost the same chemical composition, as polystyrene foam, but has lower thermal conductivity, higher bending strength, and lower water absorption. The significant difference in characteristics is due to the production methods of these materials.

EPPS is ideal for external insulation of a house made of 150x150 timber. The only disadvantage of this material is its relatively high price. A 2 cm thick extruded polystyrene board is comparable in thermal conductivity to a 3 cm thick sheet of foam plastic and a 4 cm thick layer of mineral wool.

Eps can be glued to the walls of a building, but you need to choose the right adhesive. For styrene-based materials (EPS and foam), the following compounds cannot be used:

• based on acetone and any solvents;
• petroleum toluene;
• water based;
• ethyl acetate.

• TechnoNIKOL adhesive foam;
• Ceresit CT 85;
• ALLFIX facade adhesive;
• BITUMAST;
• polyurethane adhesive Illbruck PU 010;
• "Insta-Stick universal-145345."

Foamed polyethylene

This material has long proven in practice its suitability for thermal insulation.

Foamed polyethylene has many advantages. Among them:

• low thermal conductivity coefficient;
• elasticity;
• a light weight;
• low cost.

When choosing this material, you should know that it comes in two types: LDPE ( high pressure) and HDPE (low pressure). Products made of foamed polyethylene come with one-sided and double-sided foil.

The most popular are the following:

• "Vilatherm" - thermal insulation harness;
• “Thermopol” (available in the form of mats 1.5-4 cm thick);
• "Penofol" with one-sided and double-sided foil.

Materials made from foamed polyethylene are advantageous in that they do not require a vapor and waterproofing layer. This is due to their absolute non-hygroscopicity. Therefore, when covering the external walls of a building with foamed polyethylene, you can save a lot.

Spray polyurethane foam

Sprayed polyurethane foam differs from the above materials not only in the installation method.

It has many other advantages:

• extremely low thermal conductivity: 0.023 - 0.03 W/m*K (this is significantly lower than that of mineral wool and foam);
• environmentally friendly;
• does not require vapor and waterproofing;
• there is no need for additional fastening of the heat insulator, as the foam, when applied, firmly adheres to the wall;
• when applied, it forms a continuous layer, eliminating the possibility of the appearance of cold bridges.

All this is done by sprayed polyurethane foam. the best material for external insulation of a house made of 150x150 timber. The only drawback of this method is its high cost. Spraying polyurethane foam requires not only special equipment and skills to work with it. Therefore, you will have to pay not only for the material, but also for the services of specialists.

Windproof boards Isoplat based on wood fiber

Scandinavian windproof boards are made from softwood fiber and are 100% natural thermal insulation material. No chemical binders, glue or resins are used in their production. In this case, a slab with a thickness of 12 mm is equal in thermal insulation to 44 mm of wood.

The main advantages of Izoplat windproof boards:

• Tightness. Due to their elasticity, the slabs fit tightly to the walls, and breaks in the windproof layer are excluded.
• Thermal insulation. It will not shrink during its entire service life and guarantees reliable insulation of the house throughout its service life. Coefficient. thermal conductivity of the material λ10 ≤ 0.045 W/mK
• Vapor permeability. The slab is a “breathable” material, due to which excess moisture leaves the house and mold and mildew do not form in the walls.
• Resistance to atmospheric moisture. The stove is impregnated with paraffin, due to which it is not afraid of any precipitation, dampness or temperature changes.
• Soundproofing. Windproof plate even minimum thickness will provide sound insulation of about -23 dB.
• Simple and quick installation. The size of the slabs is 2700x1200x12 mm, weight is only 9 kg.
• Guaranteed service life of more than 50 years. Actual use over 70 years.
• Eco-friendly and natural, 100% like wood itself.

Rules for external insulation of a wooden house

The walls of a wooden house are built from a very hygroscopic material. Wood can absorb moisture and at the same time become deformed. Despite the fact that construction timber has a low moisture content, the impact environment inevitably changes this indicator. Therefore, in wooden houses You can observe the deformation of the walls. It is insignificant, but inevitably affects the geometric shape of window and door openings.

When externally insulating a house made of 150x150 timber, it is necessary to take into account what is required ventilation gap, through which moisture will escape from the wood. Thus, no harm will be caused to the walls. It is necessary to build a facing layer over the insulation laid on the outside of the building. Therefore, the best technology for insulating a house made of timber is the installation of a ventilated facade.

Its schematic diagram includes the installation of several layers of materials (direction from the wall to the street):

• wall;
• lathing (frame);
• heat insulator;
• vapor barrier membrane;
• ventilation gap;
• facing material.

Regardless of what kind of insulation is used, it is necessary to follow the order of laying the materials and do not forget that there must be a gap of at least 1 cm wide between the heat insulator and the cladding.

Installation of a ventilated facade, installation of lathing and insulation

Step 1: installation of spacers

To install spacer strips, use bars with a cross section of 20/20 mm or edged board 20-25 mm thick. To fasten wood, nails or wood screws are used. The optimal step is 60-80 cm.

Step 2: installation of vapor barrier membrane

Vapor barrier film is sold in rolls. Laying the canvases begins from the bottom of the wall and gradually moves upward. The vapor barrier is secured with a construction stapler with an overlap of 10-15 cm.

Step 3: installation of the sheathing

The same material is used as for the installation of the 1st tier: bars or boards, but the thickness of the lumber should be different: 5-10 cm and correspond to the thickness of the selected insulation. Boards (bars) are attached not horizontally, but vertically. It is important to take into account that the distance between the sheathing posts must correspond to the width of the insulation.

Step 4: laying insulation

Mineral wool sheets or foam sheets are placed in the space between the posts of the 2nd tier of the sheathing. They are attached to the wall of the house using plastic dowels with a wide dish-shaped cap.

Step 5: installation of windproof membrane

The windproof film is laid in the same way as the vapor barrier film. It is attached to the sheathing using counter-battens.

Step 6: installation of facing material

The following can be used as finishing material:

• metal or vinyl siding;
• facade cement-bonded panels;
• lining.

High-quality external insulation of a house made of 150x150 timber will provide a comfortable microclimate in residential premises and will reduce the cost of heating the building.

Video - How to insulate a house made of timber from the outside

fasad-exp.ru

Advantages of insulating a house from the outside

Advantages of insulating a wooden house from the outside:

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What needs to be taken into account when insulating the walls of a timber house

• First of all, use the right insulation;
• be able to correctly estimate the thickness of the thermal insulation material;
• installation must be carried out strictly according to technology;
• it is necessary to carry out all necessary waterproofing actions;
• provide protection of the log house from the factor ultraviolet radiation and so on.

External insulation can be arranged in several options:

1. using a suspended ventilated facade;
2. using polyurethane spraying.
3. using foam insulation.

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No. 1 - Hinged ventilated facade

Insulation using this method is one of the best options, because it has whole line advantages:

1. fairly quick installation;
2. various choice of materials for cladding, including rack profile, lining, siding, wooden facade boards, porcelain tiles and so on.
3. excellent heat and sound insulation;
4. service life is approaching 50 years;
5. finishing materials can have a variety of colors;
6. significant reduction in heating costs;
7. the façade is resistant to weather conditions;
8. the “dew point” is shifted beyond the outer wall.

Insulation technology

A layer of insulation is attached to the outer walls, after which it is covered with decorative finishing.

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No. 2 - Laying insulation under siding

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No. 3 - Polyurethane foam spraying method

This method has the following advantages:

This method is used for thermal insulation of the foundation, walls and basement of a house. It is quite popular when insulating the external walls of houses made of timber.

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delai-remont.com

Differences between old and new technologies

Wooden construction in Rus' – centuries-old tradition. For centuries, houses were built exclusively from log houses, from massive round and semicircular logs, the thickness of which was sufficient for good thermal insulation. Just like today, the tree dried out over time, and cracks appeared between the logs. But earlier there were other ideas about the beauty of the facade, so ordinary wood moss was used to caulk cracks. It landed in the cracks between the logs and over time reliably filled the entire space between them.

IN modern construction economy issues come to the fore foreground and are forced to use timber, the thickness of which does not always meet the requirements of the developed standards. If the cross-section is insufficient, complete freezing occurs in winter, which means that the walls of the house are not able to retain heat. In addition, over time, the wood begins to dry out, causing heat loss to increase even more.

This is what a timber wall looks like after the wood has dried

Advantages and disadvantages of wall insulation in a log house

Thrifty owners are looking for ways to properly insulate a house made of timber so that they can spend less funds for heating. This can be done in two main ways: from the inside and from the outside, and external insulation is preferable for a number of reasons.

Features of insulation from the inside

With internal insulation, the positive effect of heat saving is offset by the disadvantages:

• Part of the usable area is inevitably lost due to the installation of a frame under the insulation.
• The thermal insulation layer hides the “living” wooden walls and the rooms lose their unique charm.
• Due to external winter cooling, unprotected wooden wall the dew point shifts to internal insulation. Condensation occurs, mold appears, and it is difficult to control the condition of the wood.

Video description

What happens to the wall when improper insulation from the inside - on video:

Insulation of walls from the outside: advantages and disadvantages of the method

Most often they resort to it, keeping in mind the obvious advantages compared to internal insulation:

• Saved effective area internal space;
• External work does not change the family's daily routine.
• The facade of the house is reliably protected from sudden temperature changes, which extends the life of the building.
• The correct selection of materials does not disturb the microclimate of the rooms (the house “breathes”).

• You can decorate the facade to your liking or improve the appearance if the wood has darkened over time.
• If the technology is followed, the wood will be additionally protected from damage.
• Ease of monitoring the work of the construction team.

The main disadvantage of external insulation is the need to carry it out good weather– in cold and damp conditions there is no point in doing this.

Three main insulation methods

Any insulation of walls involves attaching a layer of insulation and structures holding it to it. Several methods have been developed for this purpose and each of them has its own advantages and performance features.

The principle of wall insulation is the creation of an additional protective “pie”

Hinged ventilated facade

This technology itself was developed as a decoration for the facade of a house, but since the installation procedure involves attaching a layer of mineral wool or similar material, then this method can be considered as insulation.

Advantages of using ventilated facades:

• Long service life (up to 50 years), excellent heat and sound insulation.
• Easy to install.
• Wide choose facing material various colors.
• The dew point moves outward.

Installation technology:

• Pre-treatment of lumber is carried out with compounds that prevent rotting and make the tree unattractive to insects.
• A sheathing is attached to the outside of the house, onto which a sheet of hydro- and wind protection is placed. Air circulates freely in the space between the sheathing slats, due to which condensation or moisture that appears in other ways will be removed from the insulation.
• The sheathing is leveled with a plumb level.
• Next, slats are placed on the sheathing, the distance between which should correspond to the width of the heat insulator. The height of the slats is selected accordingly - for middle zone In Russia it is recommended to use insulation with a thickness of at least 70 mm.

A feature of the ventilated facade is that a gap is left between the insulation and the cladding

• Insulation mats are placed between the slats, secured with dowels.
• Then bars with a thickness of at least 5 cm are additionally stuffed onto the slats so that there is always a gap between the insulation and the cladding.
• Cladding (siding) is installed.

Laying insulation under siding.

There are practically no fundamental differences from the previous technology - insulation is also used here and is also used outside decorative coating. But if the very name of the ventilated facade indicates the place of its use, then in any case the entire house is covered with siding.

Installation nuances taking into account the selected material:

• The distance between the slats is set equal to the width of the mat if foam or sheet extruded polystyrene foam is selected.
• The distance between the slats is set to 10–15 mm less than the width of the mat if mineral wool is used. This must be taken into account when calculating the amount of mineral wool.
• According to the technology, wool slabs are mounted by surprise; polymer slabs are placed in cells, the joints are treated with polyurethane foam.
• When using mineral wool, a waterproofing layer (diffuse membrane) is additionally installed on top. It is not needed when using fiberglass or polystyrene.

Covering a log house with siding

Polyurethane foam spraying method

The principle of this technology is clear to anyone who has seen how they work with polyurethane foam. The difference here is that the volumes of material required to create a thermal insulation cushion are much larger, so a spray gun using compressed air from the compressor. Advantages of the technology:

• Easy to use and high speed application of thermal insulation mixture on large surfaces.
• Excellent adhesion (adhesion) to most building materials, long-term preservation of properties.
• Environmental friendliness, fire resistance and protection against rotting of the treated surface.

Spraying of insulation can be done on any prepared surface

Types of insulation

The choice of insulation for outdoor work is quite wide and each of them has distinctive features, which must be taken into account when choosing:

Mineral wool

Available in three varieties - stone (basalt), glass and slag. All have similar properties: fire-resistant, non-flammable, chemical and biological resistance. Other advantages of the material include vapor permeability, environmental friendliness and high sound insulation.

The downside is that cotton wool attracts rodents and does not dry completely when wet.

It all depends on the skills of the builders, but usually insulating the outside of a house with mineral wool is easier to do using mats than rolls - the latter are not always convenient to deploy on vertical walls.

Laying mineral wool slabs in lathing

Slab styrenes (foam plastic, polyurethane foam)

Foam plastic is the most cheap option, lightweight and porous, with low hygroscopicity and excellent thermal insulation. The main disadvantages are considered to be flammability (releases toxins when burned), fragility and instability when exposed to ultraviolet radiation.

Extruded polystyrene foam

It has a special porous structure, tolerates low temperatures well and is unsuitable for microorganisms. The material is durable, easy to install (slabs), and does not absorb water. Disadvantages: Highly flammable and releases harmful toxins.

Polystyrene foam and polystyrene foam are similar in appearance

Ecological sprayed styrene (ecowool and polyurethane foam)

Such insulation materials are expensive due to the method of application; required for processing large surfaces special installation and work experience. For small plots of complex shapes (cracks near pipes, windows, between slabs) polyurethane insulation in cylinders is offered.

"Warm" plaster

A mixture of light granules of complex composition (glass, cement and hydrophobic additives), which is not flammable, is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation, protects the facade well from moisture and is easy to repair.

Video description

Preparation wooden structure for plastering on video:

Subtleties of insulating timber walls

Insulating a log house from the outside under siding cannot be started whenever you want - before this, the following conditions must be met:

• Work on installing insulation can begin only after the log frame has completely shrunk - often this period can be one and a half to two years.
• It is prohibited to carry out work if the façade has not been treated with an antiseptic. Ignoring this rule will lead to the appearance of fungus and rot.
• Before insulating a house made of timber from the outside, it is necessary to prepare the facade: seal not only wide cracks, but also small cracks. To do this, you can use putty, polyurethane foam or similar materials.
• Good thermal insulation of a log house requires careful selection of material and calculation of its quantity. It is necessary to consider how the thermal insulation material will be combined with the wood of the timber itself.
• To choose the right insulation, you need to take into account the size of the building, the quality of the frame and seams.

Some insulation is installed without sheathing

Tools and materials for thermal insulation of buildings

To insulate a house without being distracted by searching for tools and materials, builders need to prepare the following:

• bubble or laser building level, you can also use a plumb line;
• tape measure, square or metal ruler;
• hammer, construction knife or hacksaw, screwdriver;
• facade dowels, tape, chalk, polyurethane foam, antiseptic;
• dry slats, insulation;
• vapor and waterproofing film;
• material for final cladding.
• sprayer for treating wood with protective compounds

Treating a wooden wall with an antiseptic

On our website you can find a list of companies providing home insulation services, among the houses presented at the exhibition is Low-Rise Country.

General progress of thermal insulation installation

All steps for insulating a house made of timber using any of the described methods are always schematically the same and are performed in the following sequence:

• to ventilate the first layer of insulation, a sheathing of wooden planks is mounted on the wall;
• a frame is placed on the sheathing to fix the insulating material
• installation of insulation;
• installation of additional sheathing and frame (if double insulation is used);
• laying an additional layer of heat insulation;
• fastening a diffusion membrane, which will provide water and wind protection.
• installation facade finishing(lining, siding) with an air gap.

Of course, in the end, insulation will hide the beauty of the natural material, but finishing the house with a block house can be a solution.

In general, the insulation of a house made of timber, carried out according to the rules, will make it possible to save on heating in the future. Despite the apparent simplicity of the entire process, there are a fairly large number of pitfalls that will definitely come out during installation. As a result, if you do not have the proper qualifications, then it is better to order the work to be carried out by professionals, because supervising the construction site is much more pleasant than climbing the walls yourself.

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Nuances of choosing insulation

When working with a house made of timber, it is necessary to choose the right type of thermal insulation. Various materials can be used for this:

It is mineral wool that is considered the most preferable material for insulating a timber house from the outside under siding, but it requires preliminary vapor barrier of the base.

On a note! You don’t have to do a vapor barrier if you use mineral insulation medium density, which will fit securely to the surface. But it will not be possible to maintain such parameters for many years, and the absence of a vapor barrier layer can lead to the appearance of mold.

Cladding a private house from timber can be done with various types of siding:

The choice of products is made based on the specific situation and taking into account recommendations. You need to pay attention to the following parameters:

• Price. It is better to refuse to purchase too cheap options.
• Decorative. Although each type has a wide visual variety, a log house looks most attractive if it is covered with metal siding that imitates a wood structure.
• Installation. All options have a similar installation technology, but it is advisable to read the manufacturer’s instructions in advance.

It also provides for the presence of additional elements necessary for correct installation and decoration.

Execution of work

After selecting and purchasing materials, they begin to insulate and cover the house with siding. If all stages are followed exactly, the work will not take much time.

Preparing the base

The whole process is easy to do with your own hands. The algorithm is as follows:

Further work is carried out only after the coating has completely dried.

Important! It is necessary to insulate and sheathe a house with siding in warm weather with a humidity of no more than 65–70%.

Laying vapor barrier and installing frame

Finishing a residential building involves creating sheathing; for this purpose, when working with timber foundations, it is recommended to use wooden materials.

Frame creation process:

Installation of hydro- and thermal insulation

The material is laid as follows:

If it is necessary to create a ventilation gap, then slats of the required cross-section are placed on top of the racks.

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Thermal insulation of a timber house for siding

Once completed preparatory stage construction of a timber house, the foundation has been installed, the timber frame of the house has been assembled, everything has been installed necessary elements, you need to think about what materials to choose for thermal insulation of walls under siding. The insulation must provide reliable protection walls of the house from the cold even in the coldest winter. Nowadays there are a large number of materials for thermal insulation on sale. You need to choose a material that is suitable specifically for your home.

To install thermal insulation under siding, you need to choose a material that has the following characteristics:

• low thermal conductivity;
• resistance to aggressive natural influences;
• long service life;
• preservation of shape during installation;
• easy installation process.

When choosing thermal insulation material, the following factors must be taken into account:

• the walls of the house are made of siding;
• climatic conditions of the area;
• in what area is the house located?
• ambient temperature and humidity;
• whether the residents will live in the house permanently or only during a certain season of the year.

Exist the following types insulation:

• roll;
• basalt;
• fiberglass;
• Styrofoam.

Roll insulation is easy to install during installation. The material is applied to the wall, secured with a special glue, and then a sheathing is mounted on the material to install the siding. Roll materials can be used for any walls, but only if the house is located in regions with a warm climate.

Basalt insulation materials include mineral wool consisting of basalt fibers. Mineral wool is produced in the form of slabs of various sizes. Mineral wool has high thermal insulation and sound insulation characteristics; it perfectly protects walls from moisture penetration.

Polystyrene foam is somewhat inferior to other insulation materials in terms of thermal insulation properties, but has good sound insulation. Often builders choose foam plastic because of its low cost and ease of installation.

Fiberglass insulation is waste from the glass industry that is recycled and becomes excellent thermal insulation characteristics. They are resistant to thermal influences, aggressive natural and chemical influences. Fiberglass insulation has good sound insulation properties and prevents moisture from penetrating into the room.

Usually used for insulation of timber houses basalt insulation- mineral wool. It has excellent hygroscopic properties. The excellent thermal insulation properties of mineral wool will prevent the frame of your house from overheating in the summer and the walls from freezing in the winter.

Another good insulation material for a log house is ecowool. If ecowool is installed correctly, excellent thermal insulation will be reliably ensured.

Preparing the surface for laying thermal insulation

You can carry out work on laying thermal insulation in any season. Only if, as finishing Vinyl siding will be used; installation of insulation is carried out at a temperature of at least 10 degrees Celsius, since in winter vinyl becomes very brittle and brittle.

Before laying thermal insulation, there is no need to carry out special preparation of the wall surface, since all work will be carried out with installation special sheathing, which will perfectly disguise all irregularities and deformations.

Before starting work on thermal insulation of walls, it is necessary to remove drainpipes, window sills, window shutters, lamps, as well as tree branches or plants that may interfere with installation.

Technology for laying mineral wool on the walls of a timber house

When laying thermal insulation on the surface of the walls of a log house, either metal or wooden sheathing can be used.

If metal profiles are used, the installation will cost more; if wooden sheathing is chosen, the work will be cheaper.

Installation of thermal insulation using metal lathing

Materials and tools:

• mineral wool;
• polyethylene film;
• mounting tape;
• metal hangers (PPU);
• metal profiles;
• self-tapping screws;
• dowels;
• screwdriver;
• building level;
• plumb line

To lay mineral wool using metal profiles, you first need to carry out preparatory work.

A vapor barrier is first installed on the surface of the timber wall, which is a special film that protects the walls from moisture penetration. Then ordinary metal hangers (PPU) are mounted on the wall surface and fixed with self-tapping screws or dowels. Then the metal profiles are installed. They are mounted in a vertical position, at a distance of 1 m from each other. After this, mineral wool is laid, securing it to the hangers.

The mineral wool is laid so that there are no gaps between its slabs. Thermal insulation must be secured with dowels. 4 dowels are required per 1 m².

Then a special membrane is mounted on top of the insulation, then all its joints are connected to each other with butyl tape. To make it hold more firmly, it needs to be fixed with several dowels.

All elements are mounted on metal hangers (PPU). A metal sheathing is mounted on them, which is screwed with self-tapping screws, so that the thermal insulation will be completely pressed against the metal profiles.

There is no need to additionally compress the mineral wool; you can simply use longer hangers. This completes the installation of thermal insulation for a timber house. After this, you can apply siding.

Laying thermal insulation on wooden sheathing

Materials and tools:

• mineral wool;
• polyethylene film;
• mounting tape;
• wooden beams for sheathing;
• wooden beams of smaller cross-section for counter-lattice;
• building level;
• plumb line;
• self-tapping screws;
• dowels;
• screwdriver

Installation of insulation for the walls of a timber house on a wooden sheathing is carried out using a certain technology.

First, a vapor barrier is installed on the wall, all its joints are connected with mounting tape or special glue. The barrier is then fixed to the walls with staples. After this, wooden beams are installed along the width of the mineral wool slab. The distance between them should be 50 - 60 cm. Then, mineral wool is laid in the gap between the beams. The mineral wool slabs are fixed with dowels, then the resulting frame is covered with a special membrane, which is fixed with screws and dowels.

All joints are taped with mounting tape. In order for the facade to have ventilation properties, it is necessary to install a secondary counter-lattice on the film. Wooden blocks of smaller cross-section are used as secondary sheathing. This completes the installation of thermal insulation for a timber house. After this, the house is covered with siding.

1. Everything you need before installation wooden elements impregnate with a special composition that protects the wood from damage by fungi and microorganisms. Before starting work, the entire surface of the walls must be coated with the same composition.
2. When installing wood sheathing, it must be laid in the same direction as the siding.
3. For installation of the very first bottom beam You need to use a level to find the most protruding point of the wall and mount the first beam at this level.
4. When marking, use a plumb line and a building level.
5. There is no need to level the walls before laying thermal insulation, since if the installation of the sheathing is done correctly, it will hide all existing deformations.

If you accurately follow the above instructions for installing insulation, then the thermal insulation of a log house under siding will be strong, reliable and durable and will allow you to install the siding correctly.

Traditional finishing of a log house with siding does not lose popularity. Its advantages are undeniable: beautiful appearance, protection of wood from external manifestations, necessary insulation of the timber facade, ease of installation. However, when working independently, owners run the risk of making several mistakes, leading to damage to the coating itself and discomfort of living. How to insulate own house using cladding correctly, described below.

Types of siding for a log house - advantages and disadvantages

Usually, derivatives of PVC and metal are used for external cladding - ondulin, corrugated sheets. Siding fits easily onto a log house.

Also types of siding include wooden lining and block house.

The latter imitates a log, which significantly increases the presentability of the house. The advantages and disadvantages of each type are described below to facilitate the choice of raw materials for owners who are ignorant of this issue: Represents long strips with locking connections

. The color palette is not limited in any way, however, consumers who are faced with such a problem as fading of the surface in the sun change the coating to lighter colors.

This exterior finishing of a log house with siding is not susceptible to moisture, however, it reacts sharply to temperature changes and can crack if installed incorrectly.

It is defenseless against flame, and when melting, it releases toxic substances into the atmosphere that threaten to suffocate. But despite all the shortcomings, plastic siding is attractive to consumers due to its low cost and ease of installation - there is no need to hire hired teams for the work. It is rarely used for cladding, since such siding for a house made of timber has more disadvantages than advantages. Significant insulation and waterproofing will be required - metal becomes a bridge of cold when low temperatures

and the resulting condensate. In addition, in bad weather, owners simply will not be able to sleep when hail or rain rumbles against the cladding - sound insulation in the form of cotton mats will not help.

Don’t forget about corrosion - when cutting material, exposed joints must be treated with a special silicone lubricant so that rust does not spread over the entire surface. This type of siding is mainly used to decorate premises intended for household needs.

Wooden siding - lining, block house, imitation timber

Beautiful and environmentally friendly. However, at the same time, the owners receive a very capricious cladding - houses made of timber with siding of this type also react sharply to external manifestations - moisture, biological damage, shrinkage - just like ordinary wood.

You will have to regularly treat the sheathing for protection from rot, fire and rodents.

The best finishing with clapboard and imitation wood looks indoors when the outer walls are made of laminated veneer lumber.

Installation of a ventilated facade under siding

The question of how to cover a log house with siding correctly is not an idle one. The technology has its own nuances, including the creation of ventilation over the entire surface of the facade, for the preservation and durability of the wood under the cladding.

We are talking about creating high-quality sheathing and accompanying layers of thermal and waterproofing. The appearance and comfort of living in a wooden building depend on how carefully the work is done. So:

Stages of work on insulating the facade of a timber house

The durability of the house’s wood, insulation and selected cladding depends on the correct operating algorithm. It includes the following steps:

When the work is finished, the surface just needs to be wiped off from dust and dirt and the finishing can be considered complete.

Errors during self-installation

Without using the services of professionals, owners risk making a number of mistakes that ultimately lead to bad things. appearance and not comfortable operation, since the insulation of a house made of timber with siding will be of poor quality due to violations during installation. So:

• Rare installation of sheathing profiles. Of course, you always want to save on materials, but in the case of siding, such a rational approach is ultimately mythical. The sheathing will sag. The beam fastening step is 50-60 cm.
• Do not use a counter-lattice. Plump cotton slabs cannot be artificially pressed down with waterproofing. This will create a quilt effect, also resulting in an uneven finish, bowing or dimpling.
• Do not use a level or tie-down cord to install the planks evenly. Houses made of timber, the siding of which is finished at the level of the lower embedded element, look skewed over the entire surface.

It is important for every person that his home is comfortable and warm, especially taking into account that our climate is quite harsh. When building a house from timber, it is imperative to insulate the outside. This is the only way to achieve it good microclimate at a time when frost is raging outside the window. In this case, you can use timber whose thickness will be less than 40 cm.

However, you will have to spend a little money here, because the problem of thermal insulation cannot be solved by sealing cracks and caulking. In severe frost, the timber itself may freeze. As a result, there is a need to insulate a house made of timber from the outside, since this is the most effective.

Advantages of insulating a house from the outside

What needs to be taken into account when insulating the walls of a timber house

• First of all, use the right insulation;
• be able to correctly estimate the thickness of the thermal insulation material;
• installation must be carried out strictly according to technology;
• it is necessary to carry out all necessary waterproofing actions;
• provide protection for the log house from ultraviolet radiation, and so on.

External insulation can be arranged in several options:

1. using a suspended ventilated facade;
2. using polyurethane spraying.
3. using foam insulation.

No. 1 - Hinged ventilated facade

Insulation using this method is one of the best options, because it has a number of advantages:

1. fairly quick installation;
2. various choice of materials for cladding, including slatted profiles, lining, siding, wooden facade boards, porcelain stoneware and so on.
3. excellent heat and sound insulation;
4. service life is approaching 50 years;
5. finishing materials can have a variety of colors;
6. significant reduction in heating costs;
7. the façade is resistant to weather conditions;
8. the “dew point” is shifted beyond the outer wall.

Scheme of a suspended ventilated facade

Insulation technology

A layer of insulation is attached to the outer walls, after which it is covered with decorative finishing.

No. 2 - Laying insulation under siding

Attention! If mineral wool is used as insulation, then it should be protected from moisture. diffusion membrane. She represents perforated film, which is capable of allowing evaporation to pass out, but does not allow atmospheric moisture to be absorbed into the insulation. If fiberglass or polystyrene is used, then they will not need protection from moisture.

No. 3 - Polyurethane foam spraying method

This method has the following advantages:

This method is used for thermal insulation of the foundation, walls and basement of a house. It is quite popular when insulating the external walls of houses made of timber.

Finish wall cladding

Covering a log house with plastic siding

To sheathe the outside of a timber house, it is advisable to use wooden boards, the thickness of which will be at least 25 mm. Also, they should be made of larch, pine or oak. In this case, an important parameter will be fulfilled, in which both the cladding and the walls will breathe better.

Finishing wooden planks allows the walls to breathe

Important! When installing the cladding, special slots for ventilation should be created on the lower and upper edges of the facade. To prevent rain or snow from getting into the cracks behind the façade, you can install special canopies.

In the next article we will look at which insulation is best for this type?

Much has been written about insulating a log house from the outside under siding, but despite the abundance of information, questions remain.

Let’s be clear – we’ll provide arguments that are based on facts, and we’ll dot the i’s.

The process of insulating a wooden house is special. By maintaining the properties of the timber, you will get the desired result. To make your home warm, you need to:
1. Understand what to do and why.
2. Know by what parameters to choose insulation.
3. Properly implement insulation technology.

What are the stages of insulation?

External insulation of the walls of a timber house is the last stage of arrangement. Getting 100% return depends on the work done before. In order not to regret wasted funds, learn the rules that:

• will save energy resources;
• will increase the efficiency of insulation;
• will provide comfortable atmosphere in room;
• will increase the service life of materials.

Rules are created based on the thermal imager's performance. If a person is wearing a sheepskin coat, but walks with his head uncovered, he will generate more heat to keep warm. Same with the house. Therefore, in order not to heat the street, and therefore save energy resources, insulate the roof and floor.

To caulk the walls or not? The answer is definitely, without options. Whether the insulation is laid between the beams or not does not matter. After drying and shrinking at home, it will present surprises. He will twist the wood so that in some places you can stick your hand into the cracks. Explore the house - walk around the perimeter with a lit candle.

Identify cold bridges, make sure that the inter-crown cracks absorb heat. Don't rely on external insulation, it's designed for something else. Correct caulk will save you from problems with correcting the consequences of hackwork.

Having insulated the inside and eliminated the “cold bridges” (ceiling, walls, windows, doors, floor), proceed to the external arrangement. To do this correctly, select quality materials, and don’t go overboard with the cover layer technology. You don’t need anything extra - save your finances, the heat capacity of wood and get the desired effect.

What is the best insulation for siding?

There is no need to mention all the insulation materials. Let's look at the materials that are asked about more often. The choice is between polystyrene foam and mineral wool.

What is polystyrene foam?

This is foamed polystyrene that does not absorb water. It cannot be combined with timber - the dew point (condensation) will be between the insulation and the wood. The moisture has nowhere to go. This will cause mold to appear. The fungus will shorten the life of the wood, it will become difficult to breathe in the house, and a musty smell of dampness will appear. Penoplex - hard foam plastic, lasts 50 years, suitable for:

• for insulation of brick foundations, under plaster;
• for insulating floors that are poured with concrete;
• for the ceiling, under filling with sand, sawdust, clay.

Mineral wool remains

Why choose this insulation? It is difficult to find a replacement that matches the price and quality. The material has a number of advantages over other products:

• by heat capacity;
• hygroscopicity;
• wide range of temperatures at which it retains its properties;
• fire resistance;
• ease of installation;
• large assortment;
• reasonable price.

Basalt wool is suitable for external insulation of a house made of timber. When purchasing, pay attention to the manufacturer. Give preference to European ones, such as Ursa, Paroc, Isover, Rockwool. If you choose the right density and do not violate the installation technology, these materials will last 40 - 50 years.

Basaltine differs from mineral wool, which contains the binding element formaldehyde 2.5 - 10% and components: slag, charge, lime, clay, etc. It consists of volcanic fiber diabase and gabbro. It surpasses its analogues in quality and durability.

This is an environmentally friendly product. Moisture getting inside does not saturate the fibers, but curls up into droplets that erode. Therefore, the properties of the material are preserved. Compare the characteristics of insulation different manufacturers, make an informed choice. Buy a quality product so you don’t have to redo the job in 10 to 15 years.

Insulation technology: we eliminate timber rot in the future

To eliminate mold and rot of timber when further exploitation after external insulation, understand why this happens. The enemy of wood is moisture, which does not erode when in contact with it for a long time.

Compliance with the basics of insulation technology will preserve the wood:

Before insulation, treat the walls with antiseptic agents. Let the wood dry. Work in warm weather.

Wood cannot be sheathed with any insulating films, even if they are vapor-permeable (adjacent to the right side), neither from the outside nor from the inside.

The dew point should be in the insulation, mineral wool copes with this. The main thing is a tight fit to the beam: the fewer gaps, the better.

Too dense (rigid) insulation boards will leave gaps that will become damp and cause wood rot. Soft (more flexible) ones will lie more tightly, but when absorbing moisture they will slide down. Need “ golden mean” – mineral wool P125/PZh175.

The thickness of the insulation is selected taking into account the diameter of the timber, heating method and climate. Don’t sculpt too much – it won’t do much good, and the cost of materials will increase. Stick to the following values:

• for southern regions – 50 mm;
• for the middle band - 100 mm;
• for the north - from 150 to 200 mm.

Two layers of 50 mm thick are better than one = 100 mm. Make two battens. The first (from the beam) is horizontal, the second is vertical. This will strengthen the frame, protect the first layer of insulation from deformation (carries the maximum load), and cover the joints of the slabs.

If you choose between wooden blocks and metal, give preference to wood (treat with antiseptic). It does not collect condensation, but absorbs and erodes, i.e. breathes. Any guides for siding will work. This is a ventilated space.

Calculations using a calculator and focusing on SNiP standards give an error, since all components of R are not taken into account with an accuracy of 100%. These are indicative indicators that few people actually follow. Trust your neighbors' intuition and experience.

Cover the fixed insulation with vapor barrier (membrane). It allows moisture to pass out and protects from external influences. Air humidity in the atmosphere reaches 70 – 100%. Therefore, film is necessary.

Insulating a house with mineral wool

For the insulation to work, create a ventilated façade. There must be a gap (5 cm) between the membrane and the siding, which warm time well ventilated. This will guarantee the durability of the material and the dryness of the walls.

Selection of vapor barrier - important stage. The film throughput is at least 1400 g/m2. This will ensure warmth and “breathing” of the house. Secure the free ends with tape or a stapler so that the seal is not broken.

When laying insulation, do not delay the process. The mineral wool will be saturated with moisture from the atmosphere, which will lead to an increase in volume. The density of the joints will be disrupted. This will affect the quality of the cladding.

Conclusion: Understanding what to do and why, you can cope with any type of insulation. Eliminate unnecessary components of the pie. It is simple (from the timber side): prepared wall + tight-fitting insulation + membrane + ventilation + siding.

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Savings during work or savings during further operation: we consider the benefits

In order not to indulge in calculations, I will present the facts. Whether it is beneficial for you or not, decide for yourself. Saving energy resources is obvious.

Fact No. 1. Arhangelsk region. Many houses have been built from 150 x 150 timber. The fashion for insulation has not caught on there, so no one is in a hurry to insulate.