Do-it-yourself greenhouse: the best projects from A to Z. Winter greenhouse: do it yourself Do-it-yourself brick greenhouse
Nowadays, he dreams of building a greenhouse on his plot. A greenhouse is a very profitable building for a summer resident, because seedlings can be planted much earlier and, accordingly, the harvest will ripen faster than in the garden. In a greenhouse, the humidity and microclimate favor the rapid growth of plants and vegetables. You can also grow seedlings in a greenhouse, for example for sale, you will agree that this is a good help for family budget. And if you build a larger greenhouse, you can even organize a family business and grow some of the vegetables for sale.
Mostly summer residents build greenhouses small sizes and from materials such as polyethylene film or glass. This type The material is certainly good on the one hand. For example, a structure made of wood and polyethylene film is lightweight and does not allow moisture and cold air to pass through from the street side of the greenhouse. But the trouble is that this film under the influence of direct sunlight, precipitation and wind, it becomes unusable after one season of operation.
Summer residents also build glazed greenhouses, which also have their drawbacks. Firstly, the glass structure still has a decent weight, which can often affect wooden building, of course, such a greenhouse will last longer. And another problem is that glass tends to chip and crumble, for example from hail or strong gusty winds.
Fortunately for all summer residents, nowadays there is a universal material for greenhouses that has gained considerable popularity and respect, and this material is called polycarbonate. Lightweight and durable, very permeable sunlight. Available in stores large selection similar greenhouses are made of polycarbonate, but the price for them, of course, is not small and not everyone can afford it.
But how can it be to the common man, if he wants a greenhouse made of this material, of course, use ingenuity and imagination. So the author decided to build a polycarbonate greenhouse with his own hands. He bought this material in sheet form, which is much cheaper than buying it already ready-made greenhouse. And the author decided to build a permanent greenhouse so that it would last until the end of his days and so that his grandchildren could also use it.
The author is building a greenhouse with a recess into the ground, which will provide increased temperature comfort to the vegetables and plants planted there. Makes a solid structure from timber and boards. So, what did the author need to build this greenhouse?
Materials: polycarbonate, brick, cement, sand, timber, board, nails, screws, hinges.
Tools: hacksaw, hammer, pliers, axe, shovel, trowel, mallet, mortar trough.
Then he pours the foundation and lays out the brick plinth
In the future, he builds a wooden frame for the future greenhouse from timber and boards.
Then the glazing of the greenhouse begins from the roof.
And then, step by step, he continues to line the greenhouse with polycarbonate.
Then he hangs the door and essentially the entire greenhouse is ready.
Inside I made these beds for seedlings out of brick, they will definitely last a century.
Winter greenhouses are designed primarily for growing plants throughout the year. As we know, in winter, vegetables, berries and herbs are very expensive, so many summer residents build structures on their site with their own hands in order to always have fresh salads and compotes on the table. But before we start construction work, it is necessary to carefully think through the design of the future greenhouse, its heating system and make an accurate drawing.
Construction device
Today, winter greenhouses can be built from various materials. Therefore every owner summer cottage can choose the most suitable and cost-effective options for itself.
Shapes and sizes of greenhouses:
The design of a winter greenhouse must withstand severe frosts, snowfalls and other atmospheric phenomena. The most durable, reliable and environmentally friendly material for constructing a greenhouse frame is wood. But such a structure can last no more than 15 years, and then it will have to be updated.
The most durable and advantageous design is considered to be a greenhouse with polycarbonate sheathing, since this material is different high quality, long term service and affordable price.
Any winter greenhouse must have a foundation, frame and glass roof. It is best to build such a structure from north to south. The room should be well equipped ventilation system for regulation of thermal and air regime for the proper functioning of plants.
Ventilation can be supply or exhaust. The tightness of the greenhouse is the main condition for its effective functioning. The temperature is maintained artificially.
The greenhouse can be racked, in which the plants are placed on shelves with sides, or rackless, where the plants are planted directly into the ground. The racks in the greenhouse should be approximately at a height of about 60–80 cm from the ground, and the passage between them should be at least 70 cm. The racks are made of wooden boards, plastic or reinforced concrete, depending on the design features greenhouses.
Photo gallery: selection of project options
Greenhouse drawing with dimensions 
Scheme of a rack greenhouse 
Winter greenhouse design option
Types of structures: advantages and disadvantages
Winter greenhouses come in several types depending on their design features, type of material used, type of lighting, heating system, and foundation design.
- Capital greenhouses are being built on strip foundation. A trench is dug in the center, which is designed to “collect” cold air, which should not reach the roots of the seedlings. Thanks to this design, the inside of the greenhouse warms up quickly enough and therefore seedlings can be planted several weeks earlier than usual.
- Capital types of conventional type greenhouses are collapsible structures that can be dismantled and moved around the site. To build such a greenhouse, use metal or plastic profile, polycarbonate, and bolted connections. Piles serve as the foundation.
The remaining types are prefabricated structures. Only in a permanent structure is it possible to install a full-fledged heating system and artificial lighting.
Greenhouses may differ in such parameters as:
- Functionality. Allows you to grow more than just regular vegetables of this region, but also exotic.
- Location in relation to the ground. There may be three types: recessed, surface and arranged in the upper part of a barn, garage, closet, etc.
- Architectural solution. They can be with a single-pitched, gable, three-pitched roof, as well as arched, wall-mounted and combined.
Greenhouses also differ:
- By appearance building materials. Can be built from brick, wooden beams, metal profiles or PVC pipes. Polycarbonate or glass is used as a coating. Today, combined greenhouses, in which the walls are lined with polycarbonate and the roof is made of glass, are in great demand.
- According to the type of heating system. Winter greenhouses can operate on biofuel, solar powered, and also have a stove, air, gas, water heating or electric.
- By type of planting seedlings and plants. They are planted in the ground or in specially knocked down boxes placed on shelves.
Depending on the design, greenhouses are divided into the following types:
- The thermos greenhouse, or as it is called the “Patia greenhouse,” despite the complexity of its design, is one of the most popular among summer residents. Its main part is located underground, due to which the “thermos” effect is achieved. It can also be above ground, but it must be covered from the inside with any thermal insulation material. In such a greenhouse it is recommended to install water system heating, as it will allow warm air flows to be evenly distributed throughout the room.
- Greenhouse with gable roof is the most common design due to its convenience and versatility. The height of the greenhouse reaches 2-.5 meters to the ridge, so a person can walk in it without bending his head. Also, in it, seedlings can be grown not only on the ground, but also in special boxes on the racks. Advantage gable construction the fact that snow and rainwater do not accumulate on the roof surface, but quickly flow down. Disadvantages: high cost of materials, complexity of construction and large heat losses through the northern wall. Therefore, it must be additionally insulated with various thermal insulation materials.
- The arched greenhouse is considered complex design, since it often causes problems with the construction of the frame and cladding. Without a special device, it is almost impossible to bend metal pipes to make a frame (but you can take PVC pipes). It is not possible to use glass to cover the frame, so only polycarbonate or various types greenhouse films. The disadvantage of an arched greenhouse is the real danger of cracks in the polycarbonate during heavy snowfall, since if the layer is too large, the roof will not withstand the load. There is no possibility to place racks and shelves inside such a structure, so plants can only be grown on the ground.
- Greenhouse with sloping walls. The design of such a greenhouse resembles an ordinary “house” in appearance, but only with walls built at a certain angle, extending outside the room. The advantage of such a greenhouse is the possibility of construction from wood, metal, and plastic. Glass, polycarbonate, film can serve as cladding. The biggest advantage is considered to be a “self-cleaning” gable roof. The downside is the restrictions on installing racks and shelves around the perimeter of the walls due to the sloping walls.
- Greenhouse with mansard roof. A type of design with vertical walls and a mansard roof, which copes well with mechanical loads such as snow. Thanks to the special roof, more space is created above your head, and a large number of multi-tiered racks and shelves can be placed on the walls.
- Single slope greenhouse. The design of the walls is no different from a gable roof, but here the roof is installed at a certain angle so that snow falls off it and rainwater drains without getting inside the room. Glass and polycarbonate can be used for cladding. Polyethylene film is not suitable for a winter greenhouse. Along the walls you can install shelves and racks on top of each other for multi-tiered growing of plants. It is practically devoid of disadvantages, except for the complexity of construction and installation of a strip foundation.
Preparatory work: drawings and dimensions of the structure
We will consider the construction of a winter greenhouse 3.34 meters wide and 4.05 meters long. The total area of the room for growing crops is 10 square meters. meters.
The greenhouse is a square room buried in the ground with shelves and a roof made of durable two-layer polycarbonate.
If there are groundwater and they are located close to the surface, then the greenhouse is built without deepening, and the outer sides of the structure are sprinkled with soil.
If necessary, the length of the structure can be increased by adding additional sections to the frame.
Structure of racks and their dimensions
Where the beam connects, a support is built triangular shape. The dimensions are shown below in the drawing.
Ridge posts are needed to support the timber at the connection point. Also, the support should not come into contact with the polycarbonate sheathing.
A strong support system will not interfere when a person moves around the greenhouse. It is necessary if the length of the greenhouse is more than 4 meters. If the length exceeds these parameters, then supports are installed every 4 meters.
Corner supports are made of 100x100 mm timber, intermediate supports are made of 50x100 mm boards.
Construction of walls and thermal insulation
The pillars will be covered with boards on both sides, and insulation will be placed in the interior space.
To save money, you can take round timber Ø 120–150 mm, hewn to 100 mm. The walls are covered with slabs.
Slag is used to insulate walls, sawdust or small expanded clay. Added to sawdust quicklime as protection against small rodents.
When choosing timber and boards, it is necessary to take into account that this structure will be used throughout the year, so the lumber must be of high quality.
- For the construction of supports and other parts of the frame, it is recommended to purchase pine boards and timber (rounded or glued). This is the most accessible, durable and cost-effective material for the construction of greenhouses in our region.
You can also choose larch or oak, but such lumber is quite expensive and therefore it is irrational to use them in this case.
Polycarbonate has excellent heat and sound insulation characteristics. But the more complex its structure, the greater the mechanical loads it can withstand (snow and wind).
When choosing polycarbonate, you need to know its thickness.
- For cladding the walls of a greenhouse, it is best to take sheets with a thickness of 6 to 25 mm, depending on the intended design.
- For roofing, polycarbonate with a thickness of 16 to 32 mm is recommended, since this part of the greenhouse will bear the heaviest load.
Calculation of the required amount of material and tools
- Beam with a section of 100x100 mm;
- Board with a section of 50x100 mm;
- Gorbyl;
- Round timber Ø 120–150 mm;
- Boards for making shelving;
- Insulation;
- Foamed polyethylene (aluminum foil);
- Polycarbonate sheets;
- Self-tapping screws and thermal washers;
- Hardware;
- Screwdriver;
- Wood hacksaw or saw;
Step-by-step instructions for building an in-depth winter greenhouse with your own hands
We dig a pit 60 cm deep. Its length and width should be several centimeters larger than the perimeter of the future greenhouse. At the bottom we make markings for installation support pillars. We dig in the supports to a depth of about 50 cm.
At a height of one meter from the ground, stretch the construction rope and check the evenness using a level. We fill the supports with soil and compact them thoroughly.
We level the floor and cover the walls with boards outside and inside, starting from the bottom. We fill the space between them with the selected insulation. This is how we cover the opposite two walls.
After we have sheathed the walls, we need to saw off the excess ends of the boards that extend beyond the pillars. At the corners of the structure inside, we nail 50x50 mm bars onto the boards. Next, we will attach the sheathing to them on the front and back of the wall. This is how we sew up all the walls of the greenhouse. But we nail the boards to the vertical beams.
We compact the insulation inside the walls, adding the required amount of expanded clay, sawdust or slag to the top. Then we sew up the top of the walls with boards.
We also cover the inner surface of the walls with insulation made from special foil. We put the insulation so that it protrudes slightly at the top of the walls, and we bend it so that it can cover the boards covering top part walls
We make the roof separately from the main structure, and then install it on the greenhouse. We manufacture all other roofing elements according to the diagrams indicated in the drawing.
We connect the rafter parts into half a tree, and nail the lintel so that the distance at the bottom is 3 meters 45 centimeters. Since the jumper is temporary, we must nail it so that it can then be dismantled. The nails should not be driven in completely, but should be left 10 mm from the head so that they can be easily removed.
We assemble the rafters and nail them to the support as shown in the drawing below.
After we have nailed the rafters to the support, we remove the jumpers. We install the ridge beam under the rafters and place the front posts measuring 88 cm under it. We nail the outer rafters (20 cm) to the ridge beam. To do this, we pre-drill holes in the rafters. Then we install a jumper between the rafters, and install flashings on the side rafters, the ridge beam and on the front posts as shown in the drawing.
Reference. Strips are called wooden strips that are designed to cover various cracks.
Double layer thick polycarbonate We attach it to the roof frame using self-tapping screws with thermal washers. To do this, we drill holes in the sheets larger than the diameter of the screws themselves.
After attaching the polycarbonate, we need to install a ridge corner from galvanized sheet metal. We fasten it with a gasket for insulation. We do not attach polycarbonate to the side ends of the roof until we have secured the roof to the main structure.
We install the roof on the walls and secure it with 4 metal brackets. They can be made from twenty-centimeter long nails. Then we install the side parts of the roof from polycarbonate triangles.
We install an insulated thick wooden door(thickness not less than 5 cm).
After this, you can install inside the greenhouse wooden shelving and shelves for future seedlings. They are installed on the sides of the walls at a distance of approximately 60 cm from the floor. A layer of earth is poured on them or boxes with soil are placed.
Heating selection
The choice of heating system depends on the size of the room. For winter greenhouses with an area of more than 15 square meters. meters will do stove heating. Large areas usually heated with biofuels, electric heaters or a water circuit.
Stove heating is an affordable and economical option for a greenhouse. In this case, a stove is installed in the room, which is heated with wood, coal, briquettes, pallets or gas. But since the walls of the oven become very hot, plants should not be planted near it.
Water heating requires a water heating boiler, pipes and a tank. The pipes are buried in the ground to a depth of about 40 cm or placed immediately under the shelves.
Electric heating can be three types: air, cable and infrared. Cable is a “warm floor” system, air is installed using fan heaters, and infrared is produced by special heating devices that are mounted under the roof of the greenhouse.
Biofuel heating is the most cost-effective heating option. Here, the indoor air is warmed due to the heat generated during the decomposition of various organic substances.
The most used biomaterials are:
- Horse manure - capable of maintaining a temperature of 33 to 38°C for 2–3 months;
- Cow dung - can keep 20°C for about 3.5 months;
- Rotted tree bark - keeps at 25°C for about 4 months;
- Sawdust - maintain 20°C for only 2 weeks;
- Straw - can maintain a temperature of 45°C for up to 10 days.
Biofuel is placed in the ground under top layer fertile land. When choosing a fuel type, it is necessary to take into account its acidity level, since it significantly affects the quality of the soil. Cow dung is considered the best as its acidity level is 6-7 pH. A more acidic environment is created by bark and sawdust, and an alkaline environment is created by horse manure. Biofuel after its use can be reused as humus.
The type of heating is selected individually for each specific case, based on parameters such as the climate of the region, planned expenses and type of plants.
- Before starting construction of the greenhouse, everything wooden boards and the timber must be treated with antifungal and antiseptic agents.
- Before installing supports, after processing them protective equipment, the lower parts must be tightly wrapped with roofing material and secured with a stapler.
- It is also necessary to protect external walls, securing roofing material on them. And only then sprinkle them with soil.
- Roof frame after application protective coating and primer, covered with white paint intended for outdoor use.
- During the operation of the greenhouse, it is necessary to choose energy-saving lamps to create artificial lighting. They help you use electricity more economically. Their number and location depend on the dimensions internal space greenhouses.
Video: how to build a winter greenhouse with your own hands
If, when constructing a winter greenhouse, you strictly observe all technical standards and follow the drawn up diagrams and drawings, then such a design will delight you and your loved ones with excellent harvests of vegetables, berries and fresh herbs for decades.
As a rule, planting is done in the spring, but you need to take care of the conditions, in particular we are talking about protection from low temperatures. Especially when it comes to vegetables.
Greenhouses and greenhouses do an excellent job with this task. Let's see how to make it from almost improvised materials below.
How is a greenhouse different from a greenhouse?
Before delving into the question of how to make a greenhouse, let's determine what is the difference between a greenhouse and a greenhouse:
- A greenhouse is used for growing seedlings and further planting them in open beds; plants can be kept in a greenhouse all year round;
- The required level of temperature in the greenhouse is maintained due to the presence of compost or manure in the soil; in the greenhouse there is an additional, third-party source of heating;
- It is possible to grow trees in a greenhouse, but this cannot be done in a greenhouse.
What types of greenhouses are there?
The greenhouse can be stationary or portable (a photo of a greenhouse at the dacha is presented below).
A stationary greenhouse can have any shape, the most common model is the butterfly (it got its name due to the doors that open on both sides).
Portable, often in the form of a tunnel. The main material in both cases is polymer film.
From all this it follows that it is quite possible to make a greenhouse with your own hands, it is the same creative process, as well as growing cucumbers, tomatoes, etc.
Material selection
Before we look at how to make a greenhouse with our own hands, let’s look at the issue of choosing the material.
When choosing a material, it must be taken into account that it must meet the following requirements:
- good throughput Sveta;
- Resistance to various types of deformation, such as strong gusts of wind;
- Easy to install and assemble the entire structure;
- Durability.
As for the materials used, the cheapest, and most importantly practical, is film, and here are its types:
- polyethylene;
- stabilized film;
- polyvinyl chloride
Covering materials include:
- agril;
- lutrasil.
In order to finally decide and understand which material is preferable, it is necessary to compare them and consider the pros and cons of each.
Glass
The advantages of glass include: it transmits approximately 94% of light, lasts a long time, and retains heat.
Disadvantages: gets very hot in summer period, heavy load on the main frame.
Film
The advantages of this material include: low cost, light weight, no foundation needed.
Pay attention!
Disadvantages: fragility, difficult to wash.
Polycarbonate
Pros: transmits light well, high level thermal insulation, lightweight and durable.
What to use to make a greenhouse frame
The frame is a kind of basis for a greenhouse; most often it is made of wood or plastic, less often of metal pipes.
Wooden frame
The main advantage is its environmental friendliness. It is also worth noting that it is very simple in terms of installation.
For installation you will need the following tools: hammer, screwdriver, saw, nails, rubber as a sealing element, wooden beams, ruler.
Pay attention!
It is advisable to cover the wooden elements of the future structure with drying oil before the installation process.
Execution Sequence
First of all, a beam is attached to the mortgage fastening; it will then become the base. Then the main beam is placed around the perimeter of the foundation, and everything is temporarily secured with nails.
Lateral and corner beams are fastened with timber diagonally. The door frame is installed to the side posts. The cornice is attached to the top of the side and corner beams.
Roof
In the area of the points where the vertical beams are fixed, it is necessary to remove a beam, the length of which is 2 m. The roof beams must be fastened at an angle of 30 degrees, they are connected to each other by a beam. In the area of the end points they must be supported by vertical guides.
Final fastening roof frame This is done using corners and strips on self-tapping screws.
Pay attention!
Doorway
First attached door frame. Do not forget that in the middle and upper parts the opening is secured with special stiffeners.
Application of metal pipes
A greenhouse, as mentioned above, can be made from metal pipes, and also with your own hands. This design is more wear-resistant.
You will need: welding machine, hammer, grinder, special nozzle for working with metal (disc).
The pipe is divided into two equal parts. Tees are welded to the edges of the base pipe, and crosspieces are welded every half meter. The cut elements must be welded to the crosspieces.
Special tees are attached to the arch to secure the door pillar.
Covering the greenhouse
Once the frame is ready, you can start covering.
Film
The easiest material to use is film. It is necessary to cover the entire structure, leaving a margin of 15 cm, and then cut it off.
Polycarbonate
The front side of the polycarbonate is the one where the drawing is depicted. First you need to cut the sheets. Seal the sections with sealing tape on top and perforated tape on the bottom.
First, the polycarbonate is attached to the top, then to the sides. It is attached to the frame with a special profile, as well as rubber gaskets.
Finally, the seal and door hardware are installed.
Ventilation
In greenhouses, in order to create ventilation (ventilation), you just need to open the doors, but it is advisable to do this in warm weather.
A greenhouse is an indispensable thing for a gardener who plans to collect in the future big harvest tomatoes, cucumbers and other vegetables, if you approach the design wisely and follow all the instructions, everything will definitely work out.
DIY greenhouse photo
The immediate purpose of the greenhouse lies in protecting plants from unfavorable factors, of which there are a great many. Creation in a greenhouse favorable microclimate, which is best suited for the crops grown, increasing their productivity several times. And greens and fresh vegetables can be obtained much earlier compared to open ground. It is no secret to everyone that their price in the winter-spring period is an order of magnitude higher than the seasonal one. Therefore, growing crops in greenhouses is highly economically efficient.
Place for a greenhouse
If you are wondering how to make a greenhouse with your own hands, it is recommended to take an interest in the general factors that influence the choice of a greenhouse. This step should be taken carefully, because you will be buying a greenhouse for more than one year. By the way, average term The useful life of this design is approximately 10 years.
To choose a place to build a greenhouse, you need to remember that the main purpose lies in the successful growth of seeds and comfortable conditions for the ripening of fruits. Therefore, it is better to select a flat place on the site that is well protected from the wind and where sunlight reaches in sufficient quantities. Therefore, it is worth installing a greenhouse in a place where there are no objects that create a large shadow.
It is not recommended to locate the greenhouse near fences and trees. However, sometimes placing a tree near a greenhouse is not a disadvantage, because in the summer it protects the structure from overheating, and in winter frosts it allows the sun, having shed its leaves, to penetrate through the branches and heat the greenhouse. You just need to make sure it doesn't grow excessively. But near coniferous tree, which preserves the cover all year round, the greenhouse cannot be placed.
Also take into account the presence of buildings near the greenhouse. It may turn out that in summer the sun will be located above the roof, but in winter, on the contrary, it will not be able to rise so high, and the building will completely shade the greenhouse all year round. It should be remembered that a greenhouse requires electricity, water and gas. Therefore, you should not locate the greenhouse far from energy sources.
If you are aiming to build a winter greenhouse and grow plants in the cold season, then remember that the snow cover that is located around the greenhouse can directly reflect the sun's rays onto it. Therefore, it is necessary to ensure that snow on the greenhouse cover does not interfere with the penetration of lighting.
Greenhouses, greenhouses and conservatories should be installed on a flat surface. Installation on sloping ground provokes the destruction of the frame, because snow load in winter it is distributed unevenly and for middle latitudes it can be very significant.
Dimensions and shape of the greenhouse
When building a greenhouse, it is recommended to determine the dimensions in advance. To do this, you need to pay attention to the area of the site where the greenhouse will be located, and decide in what volume you will grow plants, and what grows next to the greenhouse.
The most popular forms are arched and gable greenhouses. To correctly determine the appropriate greenhouse shape for your land plot, you need to pay attention to two points:
- Before making a purchase, try to determine what you will be growing. For short crops (short tomatoes, eggplants and peppers), you should choose an arched greenhouse. Tall crops (tall tomatoes, flowers and cucumbers) would be better suited gable.
- You shouldn’t forget about your own preferences, because the greenhouse should please you with its appearance.
The greenhouse base can be made in the form of a circle, trapezoid or rectangle, as well as their various variations. The most successful is a round greenhouse-tent, which uses sunlight effectively. The frame material is PVC, wood or metal.
Coating materials
If you are interested in what you can make a greenhouse out of, then remember that each material for covering a greenhouse has its own advantages and disadvantages. Greenhouse film attracts with its easy replacement, low price, low design requirements, and the possibility of using a frame made of wood or metal. The shape of the greenhouse can be a traditional arched one or an arched one with straight walls.
A film that is well stretched over arched design, you can safely leave it for the winter. The film can easily serve for up to 4 years. Disadvantages include instability to mechanical damage and low thermal insulation.
But greenhouses covered with an expensive, short-lived film, and also fragile glass structures are becoming a thing of the past. Such buildings have been replaced by polycarbonate material, which is more attractive in its characteristics - good light transmission and thermal conductivity, strength and price. That's why cellular polycarbonate and has become by far the most popular material for covering greenhouses.
The main advantage of polycarbonate is its lightness and the use of such a greenhouse for up to 10 years. The ability to bend the sheet under a greenhouse arch provides a significant increase in the load from snow. The frame is usually metal. The dimensions of the greenhouse walls and the length of the arches depend on the size of the polycarbonate sheet.
If the covering material of the greenhouse is double-glazed or glass, then the frame design requires reinforcement with floor trusses and internal drains. The undoubted advantages of glass are its light transmission, durability and warmth. But strict requirements frame due to the heaviness and fragility of glass lead to an increase in the popularity of replacing glass with polycarbonate.
Frame materials
There are currently several frame options available on the market. Galvanized profile: this frame is protected from corrosion, but at the same time it has low strength indicators. Thin sheets of steel are used here, which can easily be deformed.
The steel frame, which is coated with powder paint, is a fairly durable material, but it is not durable due to corrosion. The material is also characterized by high thermal conductivity, which has a bad effect on the yield in some cases.
Square profile made of galvanized steel is called the best option for developers who are interested in how to properly build a greenhouse. A similar profile demonstrates high performance strength and does not corrode due to galvanization.
Greenhouse foundation
In addition to its standard purpose, the greenhouse foundation additionally performs an important function, being an integral part of the pocket in which high ridges are located. Considering the fact that the foundation acts as an element general design greenhouse in its lower part, combining brick and concrete, it should not “walk” in the spring when the soil thaws, as this will otherwise lead to the formation of cracks and cause deformation of the arched structure.
The greenhouse glazing may also crack. Almost every gardener has encountered this issue during the construction phase. garden house, therefore, it is necessary to determine in advance the most acceptable options for dealing with certain deformations.
Laying the foundation for a greenhouse requires calculating the depth of soil freezing. It is advisable to dig a trench under the foundation, which is usually filled with sand and gradually compacted. The filling height must be at least 20 centimeters below the ground surface.
Around such a groove you need to place formwork 20 centimeters high directly above the soil. Metal reinforcement is placed in the formwork along the entire perimeter, and then it is filled with concrete. With the help of such simple manipulations it will be possible to create a foundation for the greenhouse in the form of a solid reinforced belt made of concrete, and is not subject to the influence of earth movement.
Frame construction and covering
The strength of the greenhouse frame allows you to reliably protect the crop from rain and wind. The construction of the frame should begin with marking the site. First of all, you need to decide what size the future greenhouse will be. Standard option is a compact structure for a summer cottage measuring 6 by 3 meters.
After this, you can begin assembling the greenhouse frame itself. To do this, strengthen the support posts in the soil in pre-dug holes. Along the perimeter of the structure there are 6 side beams with a length of 2.15 m with 3 central beams, which are 3 meters long. For beams, the cross section should be 10 centimeters.
After this, the bars must be deepened at a distance of about 40-50 centimeters, followed by careful fixation. The horizontal beams are secured to the top of each support. The legs of the rafters must be fixed at a step of 0.5-0.6 meters. On the north side, then install door frame dimensions 0.7 by 1.8 meters with further hanging of the door.
Then it is recommended to make a steamer. Create a frame from thin boards or logs rectangular shape for northern and southern wooden panels. The frames are deepened by approximately 40-50 centimeters, they are filled with biofuel, which is covered with a sufficient amount of straw and covered with a thick layer of soil. Please note that the northern part of your greenhouse should be raised to a height of 10-15 centimeters above the southern part, which is necessary for even distribution of sunlight.
At this stage, you should stretch the film onto the frame of the greenhouse. It is better if a film of whole pieces is used for this purpose. The ends of the greenhouse are completely covered with film. The film must be secured using wooden slats- they are nailed directly to the supports themselves.
Creating ventilation
In the construction of protected soil, a greenhouse effect is created under the influence of solar heat. Due to the rapid rise, air stagnates in the greenhouse, which is an ideal environment for the spread of diseases and the proliferation of pests.
Therefore, it is recommended to regulate the microclimate in the greenhouse by creating a ventilation system that provides an influx fresh air and supports optimal humidity air. The operating mode of the ventilation system must be coordinated with the operation of shading and heating devices.
To ventilate greenhouses, it is customary to use side and roof vents, as well as doors. The surface of devices intended for ventilation should reach 20% of the total area of the building. Ventilation promotes hardening of fruit and vegetable crops, useful for seedlings that are grown for planting in open ground. Two weeks before planting seedlings, you need to ventilate the greenhouse day and night. During the day, ventilation should be completed no later than 16:00.
To keep the room warm, prevent drafts and strong gusts of wind from entering. When air is heated, its density decreases and it rises. If you place vents under the ridge, then the outside will go out through them. warm air, and it will be replaced by cold air through the doors, gaps between glass and cracks.
IN small greenhouses It is enough to build 1 window on each side of the roof. In general, for every 2 meters of greenhouse length there should be at least 2 vents. If you have built a large greenhouse where you plan to grow alpine plants, in this case you will have to equip a continuous row of vents on both sides of the roof.
To speed up cooling and ensure complete air exchange, it is necessary to install side vents in the frame, which will be located slightly above the ground surface or at the level of the shelving. They can be made in the usual way or as blinds. The second option is best practiced if you plan to grow orchids and other tropical plants in the greenhouse. Side windows are not suitable for such plants, because on windy days strong air currents pass through them, which can harm the flowers.
Thus, you already know how to build a greenhouse with your own hands, choose a location for the greenhouse and its shape. Depending on your goals and financial capabilities, select the material for the coating and frame. Be sure to think about ventilation and the air exchange process in the greenhouse.
If you are planning to build a greenhouse with your own hands, first of all you need to decide which material to give preference to - used or buy new. Both options have their advantages and disadvantages, used materials cost almost nothing, but you will need some time to search and collect, and such material can be more difficult to work with, selecting the right elements for each other.
New materials, on the contrary, are very convenient to use, but cost money. Constructing a greenhouse yourself will take some time, so it is better to plan in advance and allocate 2-3 days for this work. You also need to decide what you will make your home greenhouse from - homemade greenhouses are usually film, glazed, or built using polycarbonate.
So, the main questions of what and how to make a greenhouse have been resolved, and the planning stage is over - now you can proceed directly to the construction of a homemade greenhouse.
The dimensions of the greenhouse discussed in this article are 3.6 meters wide and 5 meters long, with a center height of about 2.5 meters. The length of your greenhouse can be longer or shorter, but when building a structure according to this project, the width should be around 3.3-4 meters.
If your greenhouse roof is too flat, it may fall apart!
How to make an arched greenhouse strong and reliable so that your greenhouse does not collapse under the pressure of the first rain or snowfall. In an attempt to make the bottom of your greenhouse feel more spacious, you may want to try making it wider and lower - but be careful! If there is a lot of precipitation in your region, it is much more effective for snow and rain to roll off a steeper roof than a flat one. Too much flat roof the greenhouse will sag under the weight of water and snow, which will lead to damage.
So, how to make a greenhouse with your own hands?
We started the construction of the greenhouse with end walls, although this is not at all prerequisite, you can build the main structure first and do the ends later. Do what is most convenient for you.
To begin, to outline the contours of the greenhouse, temporarily attach a piece of PVC pipe to a wooden plank.
Pre-drill a hole in the pipe and attach it to a wooden element using a self-tapping screw.
Assemble the rest of the frame, including the doorway. The width of the doorway depends on the size of the door, the width of which can vary from 1 to 1.5 meters. The wooden threshold can be sawed off later, when it comes time to install the greenhouse door.
To make the frame joints more durable, you can glue them using a special glue intended for outdoor use.
After the assembly of the wooden frame is completed, you need to mark the contours of the greenhouse on the slats.
Remove the PVC pipe and saw off the excess pieces of wooden strip along the contour.
Refasten plastic pipe to its rightful place, along the outside of the frame. For this purpose, you can use self-tapping screws and wire anchors.
Rear end wall of the greenhouse.
And the front end wall of the greenhouse... The polyethylene film, which, later, is planned to be attached to the structure, will completely wrap the frame and be fixed to wooden parts end. If you don't have enough wooden elements in the frame of the end walls, then problems may arise with fixing the film. A poorly secured film will sag and come off at the first strong gusts of wind.
A roll of film can be spread directly on the frame to measure out the desired piece.
With a sharp knife cut off a piece of film and place something hard under it.
After securing the film on one side, you need to turn the end wall frame over and secure an additional layer on the other side.
Then carefully cut off the excess piece of film.
Cut a hole in the end wall for the doorway, leaving enough film so that you can double-fold it before attaching it to the frame. Pay attention to the cuts in the upper corners of the opening for the opening.
That's about it!
Drive long pieces of reinforcement into the ground or steel poles fences at a distance equal to the width of the doorway.
Place the posts vertically and plumb.
Tie the arched greenhouse frame to the fence posts using wire anchors, wire or rope.
After the end walls are installed, stretch the cord along the entire length to mark the installation line for the side ribs of the greenhouse.
Along the line, at a distance of one meter from each other, drive in pegs from the reinforcement to secure the intermediate ribs.
Attach PVC pipes to pegs, and the greenhouse takes shape. For a stronger and more stable structure, you can use a thicker pipe or place the ribs of the greenhouse more often than one meter apart.
During the construction of this greenhouse, the ribs turned out to be shorter than planned, so it was decided to lengthen them a little.
We decided to extend the ribs with pieces of PVC conduit. By the way, gray PVC conduit is more resistant to solar heat. Therefore, the fins of the greenhouse can be made entirely from conduit.
In case you live in an area where there is a lot of rain or snow, you will need to install additional PVC pipe right in the center of the arched greenhouse.
A ridge of thick PVC pipe attached to the top of the frame will prevent the film from sagging and collapsing.
Screw the side ribs to the ridge with self-tapping screws and secure with rope to be sure. In case of heavy snowfall, it is recommended to install supports inside the greenhouse during bad weather.
Secure each connection with wire anchors and fasten with self-tapping screws.
Using pieces of wood to twist the wire together and tighten it. Wire spacers make the structure more stable and durable.
To measure and cut the plastic wrap, you will need to measure out a little extra film on all sides so you can fold it in a little at the ends later.
Fix the film on a wooden plank using a stapler.
After the film is secured with staples on the wooden plank, you should make a full turn to completely wrap the plank in polyethylene.
Secure the film with self-tapping screws using a drill. Wrap the ends of the plastic film around a wooden strip and attach an additional strip on top of the film - this will help secure the film securely and make the structure heavier. Secure the opposite end of the film in the same way, roll it up and take it closer to the greenhouse. For this job, you will need another person to help you roll, unfold, and cover the greenhouse frame with film.
So, the main work is completed, there are still minor finishing touches that you can easily handle. Sprinkle the lower end of the film wall with earth or mulch to get rid of cracks and drafts; you can lay bricks, tiles or stones on top of the earthen embankment along the outer edge of the greenhouse.
Well, that's all, now you know how to make a greenhouse with your own hands!
