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Gable wooden greenhouse. How to build a greenhouse out of wood with your own hands - step-by-step instructions and drawings. Advantages and disadvantages of wooden greenhouses

No supermarket or market can replace a greenhouse in which you can grow organic products. Every amateur gardener has at least once thought about building a greenhouse. Since you can grow greens and vegetables in it at any time of the year. The correct microclimate created in a greenhouse affects the fruitfulness of bell peppers, eggplants, cucumbers, tomatoes and any other seedlings. There are greenhouses different designs and types.

It could be:

• I will build a classic greenhouse with a traditional construction, which will be easier for beginners in gardening to start with.
• A mini-greenhouse that serves as a compact greenhouse for growing heat-loving greens.
• The pyramid greenhouse is an excellent option for seedlings and low crops.
• Polygonal greenhouse – suitable option for cucumbers, because due to its structure, heat quickly accumulates in it during midday.

But today we’ll look at a do-it-yourself greenhouse made of wood, the most optimal for all types of seedlings.

Greenhouses made of timber are very common among gardeners and summer residents. Today there is a very large selection on the market ready-made greenhouses, which you only need to bring home and assemble. But the price of such products is not very cheap. That's why many gardeners pick up the tools and build themselves. The variety of materials allows you to fully use your imagination and construction skills. And despite latest materials metal and plastic, gardeners prefer wood.

A greenhouse made from wooden beams has several advantages:

• Cheap - greenhouses made from this material are much cheaper than ready-made options metal profile.
• Long term service - it will last 6-7 years, and with proper care - twice as long.
• Environmentally friendly design - wood has a positive effect on the microclimate inside the greenhouse and does not emit toxic substances.
• Reliability is a plus of a wooden frame: safety and ability to withstand any coating.
• Simplicity - working with such material does not require special skills and even a beginner can handle it.
• Internal equipment - in such a greenhouse it is possible to build shelves for special devices and automation, which gives more freedom of action than industrial greenhouses, in which the height and width are fixed.

There is a wide variety of greenhouse coverings made on the basis of timber. Each material has its pros and cons that need to be considered and determined which type to choose.

Film coating

The most popular material among summer residents, which is freely available on the market and in stores. Polyethylene film is the most cheap option for the greenhouse, which is available in rolls from 120 cm to 350 cm.

And also there is polyvinyl chloride film, the cost of which is slightly higher, but the quality is also better. There is also a reinforced film made from fiberglass, which has its own internal frame, made in cellular form.

1. Inexpensive material.
2. An affordable product that can be found in any market.
3. Practical to use.

1. Short film life.
2. Weak permeability for sunlight.
3. Poor strength.
4. Poor thermal insulation.
5. Condensation that accumulates on inside films, and contributes to high humidity and the development of diseases in seedlings.

Polycarbonate

More expensive material that has unique properties. Made from lightweight materials, which gives it an advantage. It has good protection against ultraviolet light.

1. Good sun exposure.
2. Excellent resistance to temperature changes.
3. Excellent thermal insulation.
4. Easy to maintain.
5. The flexibility of the sheet, which is ideal for construction.

1. Gets very hot during hot weather.
2. If the polycarbonate is of poor quality, then after two years it becomes brittle and crumbles.
3. Requires operational skills and knowledge of installation.
4. UV protection.

Glass

Standard material, which you can buy or find at home. Glass counts ideal option For wooden greenhouses, it lasts a long time and transmits the maximum amount of light. In a greenhouse covered with glass, it is good to plant early seedlings and sow seeds.

1. High light transmittance.
2. Resistance to aggressive environments.
3. High thermal insulation.
4. Immunity to temperature changes.
5. Easy to care for.

1. Difficulty in installing and installing glass.
2. Poor protection from natural elements.
3. Weak protection against ultraviolet radiation.
4. Weight. To support such a load there must be a very strong frame.

One of the important factors is the correct choice of covering material for your type of region. To do this, watching a video can help: made of wood.

Most often, summer residents ask the question: “How to build a greenhouse with your own hands from wood?” But an important factor is choosing the right tree for your greenhouse. In the near future hardware store or a carpentry shop, you can buy timber suitable for such purposes. The most best choice there will be timber made of coniferous or hardwood tree. But not from expensive types such as beech or oak. They are expensive and difficult to process. This material also has a lot of weight, which is not very convenient during installation, but will last the same as Scots pine, which costs an order of magnitude cheaper.

Cheap wood can also be brought into proper and high-quality condition if it is well treated with an antiseptic to prevent premature destruction and the appearance of insects. Before installing the greenhouse, you need to apply drying oil to the timber, which will increase the service life and improve the design of the frame, which will fit on any summer cottage.

The main question remains where and how to choose the right place to build a greenhouse. For such a structure, a plot of land that is located at a normal distance from country houses is ideal, and big trees. But at the same time protected from strong wind gusts and with maximum exposure to sunlight. The greenhouse must be well lit; without this, there is no point in a greenhouse.

Great option To locate the greenhouse, it will be installed near bushes that can minimize the effects of wind on the greenhouse. And we must not forget that groundwater should not be located nearby. The depth should be no more than 1.5-2 meters. Otherwise there is a risk that root system the seedlings will begin to rot. If, nevertheless, groundwater lies higher, then it is necessary to install drainage system along the entire greenhouse.

Let’s take, for example, a stationary greenhouse intended to be used in warm time year. We will take the sizes from standard width sleeves of polyethylene film - three meters. This choice will minimize the cost of time and plastic film, which will reduce its consumption. We will need:

• Film coating.
• Reinforced.
• Rafter.
• Standard size 2x5.4 meters and height 1.5 meters.

Building a greenhouse with your own hands is not so easy. First of all, you need to decide and calculate the construction site, foundation material and covering material. The gardener himself decides which foundation to choose: it can be brick or concrete, or monolithic. After decision taken, you need to move on to creating a drawing of the greenhouse and determining the dimensions. The area of ​​the future foundation depends on the size of the plot, the owner’s budget and the type of crops that he would like to plant in his greenhouse.

In our example we will consider a monolithic strip foundation.

To do this, you need to dig trenches with a size of 55-60 centimeters, around the entire perimeter, under the future frame. And pour concrete mixture of the “M200” or “M250” brand into it. Using formwork, we raise the height of the tape by 25-30 centimeters above ground level. In order for the foundation to be strong, it must be reinforced. It is also necessary to waterproof the foundation, which will make it possible to use not only wooden frame, but also metal.

Wood is the most common material in construction and does not require any special skills. Therefore, even for a beginner in this matter, there will be no particular problems in building a frame for a greenhouse.

Stage 1: Fastening the timber to the foundation. Before starting to build the frame, it is necessary to install a load-bearing beam, which must be wider than the other beams from which the greenhouse will be mounted.

Antiseptic treatment. You must first treat the wood and all its constituent elements with a disinfecting chemical, which will protect against rot and pests.

Provide protection for the greenhouse. It is advisable to install a fine-mesh mesh under the frame to protect against moles and small rodents, which can cause a lot of trouble.

Stage 2: After installing the wooden base on the foundation, we proceed to the process of assembling the frame of the greenhouse walls. For ease of assembly, choose a system with grooves. With their help it will be more convenient and safer, because they increase strength and stability finished frame.

Stage 3: Construction of the rafter system. During the manufacture of the rafter system, you cannot do without grooves. This work must be done as accurately as possible to ensure that the roof is level and wind-resistant. Determine the length of the rafter leg. If the greenhouse will be used by a person of average height, then the length should be 1.27 meters, and if the person is above average height - 1.35 meters. The width of the polyethylene film sleeve is 3 meters, and when unfolded it is 6 meters. Thus, two rafter legs and two posts should be 5.8 meters, which will minimize the cost of film for covering the frame of your greenhouse.

For a professional gardener, a greenhouse is an essential part of a personal plot. This is the only way to grow early harvest. A greenhouse made with your own hands will become the pride of the owner, and the ability to make individual dimensions is the main advantage. On modern market provided various designs greenhouses made of all kinds of materials. IN lately Polycarbonate premises were the most popular metal frame, but as practice has shown, such structures are more expensive and less warm.

Before building a greenhouse, it is necessary to take into account all the factors for the future structure: location, light advantages, area of ​​the proposed premises, choice of material, financial capabilities. Boards and beams can be purchased at any hardware store or you can use existing leftovers from carpentry work. You can make a wooden structure yourself with a little carpentry experience.

Advantage of a wooden frame:

• Wood is environmentally friendly pure material and when exposed to ultraviolet rays does not produce toxic fumes;
• To make a structure, you do not need to purchase expensive tools; a minimal carpentry kit will be enough: saw, hammer, nails;
• The wooden frame is light and at the same time durable;
• If any of the elements are damaged, it can be replaced;
• Availability of material and its economical cost;
• With the right choice of wood and quality care, its service life will be up to 7 years.

The disadvantages of the design, with a competent approach, turn into its advantages. By correctly positioning the greenhouse relative to the sunny side, you can cope with the shadow in the space. High-quality processing of wood with drying oil can protect wood from the influence of chemical fertilizers and physical factors of the external environment.

Experts recommend choosing larch, spruce and pine. These rocks are durable and resistant to decay. Deciduous trees include oak, teak, and hornbeam. However, these materials are dense and difficult to process. To work with them you will need a power tool. And the price for these breeds will be much higher.

It is important to choose the right wood. The timber should not contain a large number of knots, chips, cracks, rot and blue stains. No more than 20 percent humidity is allowed . From choice wooden beams the durability and strength of the structure will depend.

Do-it-yourself wooden greenhouse: types of structures

Before installing the greenhouse, it is necessary to do all the projects correctly. To do this, it is necessary to take into account the illumination of the area, the topography of the site, wind loads, soil composition, and distance from the water source. It is best to locate the structure in a lighted area, away from trees and buildings. For gable construction the best option would be a north-south orientation; lean-to greenhouses are recommended to be installed from east to west.

Types of structures:

• Single-pitched, attached to a building or separate structures;
• Gable, have a rectangular shape and a roof slope of more than 30 degrees;
• Arched structures, beautiful in appearance and good for growing;
• A circular structure with many angles looks impressive, but requires additional vents for better air circulation.

Depending on the main coating, structures are divided into: glass, film, polycarbonate greenhouses. Film is the most economical option, however, it will only last for a season. Glass coating is a good option for a wooden frame. It retains heat and is reliable in use. Polycarbonate is modern material for covering the frame, which has good light transmission and is several times cheaper than glass. Even a beginner can cover the material.

DIY drawings of a wooden polycarbonate greenhouse

Step-by-step assembly instructions:

• Foundation preparation;
• Fastening the supporting beam;
• Making wall frames;
• Arrangement of rafters;
• Installation of ridge and wind boards;
• Manufacturing of windows and doors;
• Covering the structure with material.

To build a greenhouse, you need to prepare a site for the foundation. A large structure requires additional reinforcement. The ground is leveled, beacons are placed around the perimeter and a trench 10 cm deep and 20 cm wide is dug. Typically, greenhouses are installed on a brick or reinforced concrete foundation. Formwork is built in the trench and filled with concrete, after drying they begin to lay bricks.

A lightweight option is to construct a foundation made of timber, the manufacturing scheme of which is simpler.

The perimeter of the future greenhouse is tied with timber 12x2 cm thick and treated with drying oil. Placed in a dug trench special material, treated with tar, timber is laid on top of it. The frame is erected on the finished foundation.

The supporting beam is fastened using special corners, which are installed at the stage of work with the foundation. The wood is pre-treated with antiseptic compounds to prevent rotting. The beam should be slightly wider than that used for the frame. A section of 12x12 or 10x10 cm is recommended.

Before assembling the frame, it is necessary to make blanks from the beams. Frame assembly begins with end walls, which are secured using metal corners to the supporting beam.

To create a gable roof, a beam 5x5 cm thick is suitable. First, we install the top beam on which the roof ridge will be mounted. Next, we lay additional slats at intervals of 2 m. Then we build doors and windows. After installing the frame, it is necessary to cover it with material. Polycarbonate can be secured using self-tapping screws with a special seal and profiles that are attached to the frame. An important point is to install sheets with vertical honeycombs so that moisture and rainwater flowed down them easily. A sealing tape is installed between the polycarbonate and the frame.

Do-it-yourself wooden greenhouse: the simplest option using improvised means

For many, a wooden polycarbonate structure is an expensive option. Therefore, some build a small greenhouse from more simple materials. These could be poles or old window frames. To do this, the construction of a greenhouse begins in early spring. Mark a rectangle under future design, dig holes in the corners up to 50 cm deep and install pillars one and a half meters high, then dig in several more supports along the length every 2 meters.

On the sides of the end sides, a pole 2 meters high is installed, so that they are in the middle. Next, 2 more supports are dug into the interior of the future greenhouse and a supporting pole is installed. Next, installation is carried out by laying rafters. A frame of pine poles is made around the entire perimeter. The entire structure is covered with film.

DIY greenhouse made of wood (video)

The variety of greenhouse shapes depends on the owner’s imagination; you can round the roof, give the frame a trapezoidal shape, or make an arbitrary version. The main thing is that the home-made building brings a rich early harvest and gives moral pleasure to the owner.

Examples of wooden greenhouses with your own hands (photo ideas)

A greenhouse made of wood is best gift for plants that you plan to grow indoors. Durable, reliable, retains heat well, environmentally friendly material - wood. Given that the right choice and wood processing, a do-it-yourself wooden greenhouse will serve no worse than the most expensive purchased option. And it doesn’t matter whether you make the coating from polycarbonate, glass or film - the wooden base will withstand any load.

What kind of greenhouses can be built from wood?

You can build any greenhouse you want from wood. The main thing would be skill and financial capabilities. Considering that wooden “waste” is available in many personal plots- if desired, greenhouse costs can be significantly reduced.

Let's take a closer look at which structure is better and easier to install on your site.

The DIY wood arch greenhouse and dome structure are projects that are within the reach of true woodworking talents. Greenhouses of this type (see photo) are easier for the average gardener to purchase in a store than to make on their own.

Therefore, we will not consider the details of their manufacture and installation. Let's dwell on simpler and more affordable options that every gardener can make - wooden greenhouses as a “house”.

We offer you two real projects from ordinary wooden beams, which can be made from scrap materials.

Features of foundation installation

We have already discussed in detail the various types of foundations and the features of their installation in the article “”. When making a greenhouse from wood, you need to take into account the main thing - weight wooden structure very impressive and, accordingly, it must stand on a solid foundation.

In this case, a strip foundation type is best suited. Raise it above the soil level by about 30 centimeters. And do not forget about reinforcement, which will also increase strength and prevent subsidence of the entire structure.

How to make a classic wooden greenhouse?

The new is always the well-forgotten old. We propose to build a standard wooden greenhouse, which stood on the plots back in the days when there were no construction “sophistications” in the form profile pipes or metal-plastic.

The structure of the greenhouse is frame, based on racks made of 90x90mm timber. Purlins connect the posts at the top and bottom. It's on top rafter system gable roof. Two doors in the end walls. Between the racks there are blank panels halfway up, which are assembled from thick boards and enclosed in frames. The upper part of the walls and the roof are glazed with ordinary silicate glass.

To implement this project you will need materials: Beam with a section of 90x90mm

• 4 pcs. 4.2 m long;
• 4 pcs. 3m long;
• 12 pcs. - 3.6 m each;
• 38 pcs. - 1.8 m each.

Half-beam with a section of 45x90mm

• 2 pcs. 3m long;
• 4 pcs. 4.2 m long;
• 24 pcs. - 2.4 m each;
• 28 pcs. - 1.8 m each;
• 34 pcs. - 1.2 m each;
• 102 pcs. - 0.9 m each.

6-8 sheets of plywood or other sheet material- size 12x1220x2440m. Glass about 10mm thick - for 18 sq.m. walls and 16 sq.m. roofs.

And also: construction nails, wood preservative, roofing steel cornice, door handles and locks, door hinges (3 pairs). It is possible that you will have to buy something in addition due to your mistakes at one stage or another of the work.

Tools: hammer, square, level, measuring tape, screwdriver, circular saw and a piece of cord.

Foundation and frame base

The greenhouse is placed on a strip foundation. The lower part of the greenhouse frame is assembled and laid on a waterproofing layer. Thoroughly soaked in antiseptic. Wall racks, also with a cross-section of 90x90, are placed on the foundation beams.

When installing, use additional boards as temporary supports. Check verticality and straightness with a level and cord.

The racks are connected at the top by half-timber strapping made of timber. In the side purlins, make markings for the installation of rafter beams, and hollow out inclined nests.

The frames of the gables are assembled using racks made of thick boards. Install the ridge board under rafter beams into pre-cut nests. This will make it easy to lay glass panels on top.

Assemble the rafters using nails 100-150mm long. Use a string to check the flatness of the slopes. Carefully coat the entire structure with an antiseptic.

Installation of wooden panels and doors

Install a glazing bead on the pediment part (this is a small cross-section strip). Coat it with sealant and insert pre-cut glass into the resulting slots. In the same way, the glass is strengthened from the outside and secured with thin nails.

Glass is installed on the roof in a similar way. The support is a lath nailed along the side surfaces of the rafter beams - with an indentation of the thickness of the glass and glazing bead from the top edge. The glass is “seated” on the sealant and secured with glazing bead on the sealant and thin nails.

It is advisable for two people to work with glass. Protect your hands with thick mittens.

After glazing the roof, nail a wind board to the ends of the rafter beams, which will give the work a finished look.

Project of a greenhouse made of wooden beams according to the Mittleider type

This greenhouse project can be conditionally called a “Mittleider greenhouse”, since there are also ventilation windows along the continuation of the rafter structure. 4 window openings are closed in pairs by two rectangular windows. Thanks to better regulation of air flows, the most favorable thermal conditions are created for plants.

The frame of the greenhouse is made of wood, covered with film or glazed. The bevels at the corners give additional rigidity to the building. Reliable timber will ensure the strength and durability of the structure, which will be in contact with a humid environment.

Start of construction

Construction begins with the preparation of materials. For a greenhouse of this type you need to purchase:

Don't forget also: door hinges, handles and locks, antiseptic, construction nails, metal staples, self-tapping wood screws and narrow polyester tape.

Marking for strip foundation

Using a cord, tape measure and pegs, markings are made for the strip foundation.

In a simplified version, you can dig a trench around the perimeter to the width and depth of a shovel bayonet, fill it with gravel and compact it. Next, waterproofing is done. From a beam with a section of 100x100, fold a foundation frame, connect it into half a tree and thoroughly impregnate it with an antiseptic. Place the frame on waterproofing.

Making a conductor and assembling walls

To assemble the walls, a jig is made: A full-size wall is drawn on a flat base, stops are installed in the right places to hold the wall beams in the desired position. Thanks to this, the workpieces can be cut exactly to size and connected correctly. The end walls are assembled in the same way. In one of them there is a doorway with a height greater than side walls. In the opposite wall there is also an elevated structure, but without a door.

Installation of rafters and plywood brackets

Rafter beams are placed on the end walls, which will define the important planes of the roof slopes and the vertical plane for the ventilation windows:

Check the rafters carefully using a cord and level. After aligning all planes, install the remaining trusses:

To ensure that the installation goes smoothly, stretch the cord between the outer rafters, and assemble the trusses in advance in the jig.

To strengthen the structure, it is convenient to immediately connect the trusses with two beams, which will immediately form window openings. Install the upper beam under the long rafter beams, the lower one - at the junction of the short rafter beams with the truss risers:

Secure the entire roof structure with plywood brackets, as shown in the diagram:

They are installed with screws, for which holes must be drilled in advance. Countersink holes are made for the screw heads.

The distances between the brackets and the edges of the roof beams should be as small as possible, so that later the film can be tightened more accurately.

After installing the brackets, a wind board is nailed to the ends of the upper rafter beams, which will finally form the upper edge of the roof. Later, ventilation window hinges will be installed on the lower edge of this board.

Assembling and fixing window frames

To assemble the frames, 30x50mm slats are used. If your carpentry skills are up to par high level- assemble the frame parts using a tongue-and-groove joint. Otherwise, the slats are assembled at the end with nails or screws. Holes with a diameter of 0.75 of the diameter of the fastener that will be used are prepared for them.

The windows are covered with film. The hinges cut into the desired edges of the window frames and the windows are put in place.

The technology is the same as when installing a window. Strengthening with plywood brackets can provide additional strength:

You can also put 3-4 crossbars from an inch board end-to-end with the door crossbars.

It is better to assemble using screws, pre-drilling holes for fasteners to 0.75 of their diameter. At the end of the work, install the handle.

After the greenhouse frame is completely ready, tighten it plastic film. It is better to do the cutting on paper first to avoid lack of film in the most unexpected places.

The film is attached through a polyester tape - with a stapler using metal brackets. It is not forbidden to secure the film in any other way that seems more convenient to you.

You can cover the entire greenhouse with film on both sides. This will provide an additional layer of air, which will reduce daily temperature fluctuations in the greenhouse, but will somewhat worsen its light transmission.

This type of greenhouse is also well suited for glazing.

To make a high-quality design, be sure to first make a drawing of a wooden greenhouse on paper with all the marks on dimensions and material consumption. Ready project and videos will help you not only install the structure correctly, but also calculate all costs in advance.

50+ photos of greenhouses with an opening top

Below you can view a gallery of greenhouses with an opening lid that you can make with your own hands. We collected photos from all over the Internet, below we indicated the sources from which we were able to determine the authorship.

Mounting methods

How to attach an opening greenhouse lid

How to attach greenhouse arcs or PVC pipes under film

Clamps

We insert it into the ground (Shockingly simple way!!!) The method is that we plant PVC pipes on reinforcement driven into the ground. Wooden rods can be used instead of reinforcement (enough for a season) Click on the photo to enlarge

How to attach film to a greenhouse

The simplest version of a greenhouse made of PVC pipes

Very simple design greenhouse Easy to assemble and just as easy to disassemble. It can be moved, enlarged, reduced.

It's cheap and easy to make .

Step by step photos. Click on them

How to make a greenhouse from willow or cedar branches.

This greenhouse is suitable for those who did not expect sudden frosts.

This mini greenhouse can be done in 45 minutes, according to the author of the photo.

To make the arcs, we used not PVC pipes, but cedar branches, but I think that in our conditions, willow branches will also do. The branches are tied together with nylon thread (it doesn’t matter what) to give it an arched shape. When the arches of branches are stuck into the ground, a block is attached on top of them to give one level, which is also attached to each arch.
To move such a greenhouse to another place, the author advises placing two long bars along the bases of the arcs, then tying each arc to these bars. As a result, we will get something like a stretcher. Taking such a stretcher from both ends, you can quite easily pull our greenhouse out of the ground and move it to another place.
Below you can see step by step photos, to enlarge, just click on them.

Telescopic greenhouse or greenhouse

Here is a very interesting version of a telescopic greenhouse or greenhouse. I moved the arches and nothing gets in the way, below you can see the fastening mechanism, click on it to enlarge.

DIY greenhouse with convertible top

Look at the step-by-step photos of making such a greenhouse. First we make a tray for the soil, then we make a frame on which we will attach the arcs, and which will recline. Then we attach this frame to the pallet on hinges and cover it with film.

Step-by-step photos of production.

Click on the gallery to enlarge

A greenhouse made of straw or hay.

As you can see, the photo shows a greenhouse, the walls of which are made of briquettes (or bales) of straw (hay). A frame with an opening top is simply piled on the straw walls. The film rolls onto the block. Such greenhouses are usually directed to the south. This design helps well when the slope of the soil on your site is directed to the north; in such cases, the sun slightly heats the earth. This kind of greenhouse will help you out in this situation..

(Dew Collector greenhouse system from Roots Up)

The greenhouse condenses up to 80 liters of water per day!!!

Soon, thanks to such greenhouses, Ethiopia will flood the world with food. The greenhouse was created for arid countries to solve the problem of drought.
During the day, steam accumulates in the upper part of the greenhouse. When night falls, special valves are opened to draw in cold air, which cools and condenses the water vapor, after which the liquid enters a special storage tank.
Excess water left after irrigation can be used for drinking.

Portable greenhouse (greenhouse) from a barrel

Easy and simple to make (45 minutes)

This portable greenhouse is suitable for growing seedlings, or plants such as parsley, cilantro, etc.

• 2 photos - we cut out square holes with a jigsaw in 1 quarter of the circumference of the barrel.
• 3rd photo - a hole with a drill so that you can insert a jigsaw.
• 4 photos - holes in the bottom to drain water from the drainage.
• 5-6 photos - attach handles on the sides for carrying.
• 7-12 photos we attach the film.
• 14 photos - drainage.

The greenhouse can be painted in green so that it blends in with the landscape of the dacha

Portable greenhouse made of film

As you can see from the photo, the greenhouse has a lightweight version. She doesn't have massive base, is attached to the ground by reinforcement fixed to the base. It is carried as if on a stretcher using two long boards nailed to the base. It will be useful to the gardener when there is a need to close some weak plants during a cold snap.

How to automatically open windows in a greenhouse?

Very interesting and simple design automatic opening vents depending on weather conditions. The principle is as follows. Between the large (3L) and small (0.5L) jars there passes a tube in the form of a communicating vessel. A large jar is suspended from the base of the greenhouse, and a small one from the window. Moreover, the small one should be balanced with the window in such a way that with a minimum amount of water in it, the window should be closed. In a hermetically sealed large jar when the temperature in the greenhouse rises. water due atmospheric pressure moves into a small jar, opening the window

A simple greenhouse option opening from the side .

As you can see, the design of a greenhouse made of film is very simple. Such a greenhouse can be easily moved and placed in a new location.

Dome greenhouse made from pipe scraps

it's ugly, but it works

The authors of the blog booth555.com moved to new home, and they had to install their own sewer system. As a result, they were left with a lot of pipe scraps, which the enterprising young family used to create this greenhouse. The advantages of these pipes are that they are easy to bend and at the same time stable and easy to nail down.

Look at step-by-step photos of creating a greenhouse.

As I understand from the translation of the article from English, the pipes are attached to wooden crossbars using tape. I didn’t really understand about the film, the film scraps were somehow fastened together, most likely a cord was threaded through the holes, and there is also a hint in the 6th photo.

The film at the bottom is pressed to the ground with bricks, this makes it possible to lift the film up on hot days.

I could not translate the purpose of the star (in the 4th photo), but I assumed that it was attached to the dome to give stability to the structure.

Write your options for assigning a star in the comments.

Recumbent greenhouse made of double-glazed windows or frames

The author of the blog doorgarden.com made such a recumbent greenhouse on his site from a glass door (double-glazed window), which was accidentally hit by a stone from under a lawn mower.
According to the author, such a greenhouse allows him to collect greens for salads in January, well, America, I can’t say exactly what state it is.

Look at the drawing of this greenhouse. It's very simple. As we can see from the photo, the double-glazed window is not attached to any hinges; it simply lies, resting against the side board to prevent it from slipping.
The double-glazed window can be replaced with any large glass or window frame.

In summer, in hot weather, when there is no need for such a greenhouse, it can be thrown over the strawberries to protect the berries from birds.

Photo source: doorgarden.com

Attention!!! Important point about greenhouses made from window frames

Whatever frames you have at your disposal, the transparent roof should be made folding (lifting upward), and not hinged or folding, as on the right in Fig. Through any vertical gap, all the warm air will instantly evaporate and the plants will be hit with cold, and the horizontal one can be adjusted with supports according to the weather and local conditions.

What should be the slope of the greenhouse lid???

Note: optimal inclination slope of the roof of a lean-to greenhouse from the vertical (90 degrees) – φ, where φ – geographic latitude places; and (90 degrees)–φ is the angular altitude of the Sun at noon of the spring/autumn equinox. See below about a greenhouse with a heat accumulator.

Source of the last two paragraphs and photos: vopros-remont.ru

Cold greenhouse. (diagram-drawing)

With your own hands

Auto photo of this cold greenhouse Vince Babak, while growing vegetables for the school cafeteria, wondered if it was possible to grow fresh vegetables in early winter. After studying the literature on this topic, he created this winter cold greenhouse.

The greenhouse consists of a wooden frame and glass lid. The glass of the lid should always be tilted to catch as many rays of the weak winter sun as possible.

The author claims that even in winter, in sunny weather, this greenhouse can heat up to very high temperatures, so the lid must be able to open upward. In order to regulate the temperature, a thermometer must be placed in the greenhouse (see photo 5), and there must also be a mechanism was made to fix the open lid at different angles (see photo 4).

Vegetables that can be grown in early winter in a cold greenhouse

BUT still, the main secret of such a greenhouse is not in its structure, but in the plants grown in it . These should be plants that can easily tolerate cold. According to the author's research, there are five crops: spinach, green onions, mache, claytonia, and carrots can be grown successfully in the northern states of the United States. And also arugula, Escarole, Mizuna, parsley, sorrel, European lettuce, mustard, spinach and turnip.

My advice: Make a cardboard sheet covered on one side with foil. At night, you can cover the greenhouse with this foil, which will reflect the heat coming from the ground back into the greenhouse.

Greenhouse made of window frame and hay

Greenhouse (greenhouse) In a plastic bottle

or "How to grow seedlings if the apartment is cold"

It often happens in our domestic apartments that for growing seedlings the room is not warm enough. A way out of this situation could be a greenhouse like this in a plastic bottle.

When sunlight enters such a greenhouse, the air in the greenhouse begins to heat up. and remains warm for a very long time, even after sunset .

An important advantage will be high humidity inside the bottles and, which will be created due to the heating of pre-moistened soil. This humidity significantly speeds up the process of seedling ripening.

The manufacturing process is simple : cut the bottle, wash it, place the soil with the seeds inside and seal it tightly with tape.

How to make a quick greenhouse with your own hands

Greenhouse made of wooden lattice

The advantages of such a greenhouse:

• - quickly erected
• - stable
• - easy to manufacture

Cons:

Not suitable for tall plants, can be used for growing early greens and seedlings.

Russian in-depth greenhouse on biofuel

About Russian pits

The simplest greenhouse is a lean-to greenhouse, sunk into the ground, with biological heating. For its construction, choose a dry, well-lit and sheltered place from the winds. It is desirable that it be a low slope facing south. To protect the greenhouse from the wind, green spaces, fences or special reflective screens, which are installed on the north side, can be used. Particularly convenient are the rotating flat screens, painted white, which allow you to get the most out of your solar energy. Illumination with reflected light increases the temperature in the beds by 2-3°, which is equivalent to moving your site, for example, from the Moscow region to the black earth regions of the country: Lipetsk or Voronezh.

Note: you can use any flat boards covered with aluminum foil for baking.

Construction begins with the installation of a frame around the perimeter of the greenhouse made of four sanded logs with a diameter of 10-14 cm. The northern side of the frame should be slightly higher than the south. On the south side, a groove (quarter) is selected in the trim to support the frames.

At one time, the Russian greenhouse was a revelation for European farmers. It was from the “Russian pits” that the nobility of that time received green onions, lettuce, dill, parsley, radishes, and strawberries for the table in winter.

The pit is dug to a depth of 70 cm. In diameter it has the shape of a trapezoid. In dense soils, the walls do not need to be fastened, but in loose and slumping soils, fastening with horizontal boards is used. To prevent the greenhouse from being washed away by rain, a drainage ditch is installed around it, which can be closed wooden shields, facilitating approaches.

The most convenient frames for a greenhouse are 160x105 cm in size. They are made from 6x6cm bars, connected for strength with wooden pins, and then properly painted with weather-resistant varnish PF-166 (“6 = c”). Glass is strengthened with putty or glazing bead. To drain rainwater, grooves are cut into the lower sashes.

Biofuel in greenhouses is horse or cow manure.. Horse fiber is considered the best; it gives more heat. It is harvested in the fall. Manure is collected in piles and carefully insulated on all sides with straw, sawdust, peat and covered so that the manure does not freeze. In the spring, before filling the greenhouse, it is transferred to another, looser pile and heated. To do this, make several holes in it and pour a bucket into each hot water, after which the stack is covered with burlap or matting. After two to four days, when the manure warms up to a temperature of 50-60°, the greenhouse is filled with it. The colder one is placed on the bottom, and the hotter one is placed on top and on the sides. After precipitation, a new portion is added in two to three days. The manure should lie loosely, and only at the walls it should be slightly compacted so that voids do not form.

Greenhouses - pits were usually made of 3-4, which ensured year-round use: while 1 pit was warming up after refilling, the rest were producing products. An indispensable condition for the successful operation of a Russian greenhouse is the lining of the entire complex of pits clay castle with a drainage ditch, otherwise the biofuel will sour.

To enlarge the photo click on it

After filling, the greenhouse is covered with frames and mats made of matting, straw or burlap. On top of the heated manure, pour soil - garden soil or turf soil, compost or fertilized peat. On average, one frame requires 0.2 cubic meters. m of land. It is not recommended to exceed this amount, since under the weight of the earth the manure becomes compacted, the flow of air to it becomes difficult, and it stops burning. For the same reason, you should not over-moisten the soil.

A greenhouse of even such a simple design will make it possible to grow vegetables much ahead of schedule.

Greenhouse layout diagram

where is the best place to put a greenhouse on the site?

As you know, increasing productivity is the main task for any gardener. And here you cannot do without a normal greenhouse or greenhouse. But too expensive designs are not profitable, and cheap ones are not durable. The most acceptable option is wooden polycarbonate greenhouses.

Wood is the most the best option during the construction of such structures. The price of such a building is quite affordable for almost any owner. And most importantly, the structure pays for itself in an average of 1 season.

Gardeners, summer residents and, in general, people living on the land, at the everyday level, are excellent at using traditional plumbing and carpentry tools. This skill is quite enough for a greenhouse made of wood and polycarbonate, built with your own hands, to become your pride for many years.

Note! To be precise, a greenhouse is usually called a structure that has additional, artificial heating. Rest, similar designs, it is correct to call them greenhouses.

Choosing a site for construction

When making a greenhouse project made of wood, you should start with choosing a location.

We provide several tips that can act as instructions for...

• Naturally, the main requirement for placement is as much sunlight as possible.
• The second, important recommendation is that it is better to place rectangular buildings from north to south, along the longitudinal axis. With this orientation, the north wind is not scary for the greenhouse.
• It is also recommended to build closer to home.
• If the site already has outbuildings for tools, sand, sawdust, etc. Plan closer to them.
• If this is a dacha, with the traditional 6 acres, then there is not much space there and the structure can be attached to the house, but from the sunny side.
• A permanent wooden greenhouse next to trees is not appropriate, as they will grow and provide shade.

Let's start construction

When making a project for a wooden greenhouse, it is better to break everything down step by step so as not to get confused. This instruction It will also be carried out in the form of a step-by-step plan.

Laying the foundation

The frame of a greenhouse made of wood is a relatively lightweight structure; it does not require a powerful, permanent foundation. But we are considering a structure that should last at least 10-15 years, and for it a light but solid foundation is already desirable.

As a rule, a strip, strip-column or columnar type of foundation is laid.

In private construction, greenhouses 3m by 6m are more common. We will also take these dimensions as a basis.

• If your soils are fairly stable, . First, make markings using fishing line and pegs. Check the geometry by diagonals; if they are not the same, the structure will be crooked.
• Next, you should dig a trench about 30 cm deep if you chose the strip option and 20 cm if you are laying a strip-column foundation. Foundation width 20 – 30 cm.
• We put up the formwork, fill in a small pillow, 5 – 10 cm, from sand and crushed stone and compact it.
• Many people advise pouring a low foundation and laying several additional rows of brick on top. But we believe that it will be easier to lay a reinforced foundation higher, since as a result we get a monolithic concrete bath. It retains moisture better and you can even change the soil to black soil.
• Next, when you knit the reinforcement, insert vertical beacons from the reinforcement or anchor bolts. For subsequent fastening of the harness.

Important: during installation of the reinforcing frame, corner connections should be made from bent, at 90˚, reinforcement bars. If you do it end-to-end, the corners may tear later.

• If the soil is not stable, make a strip-column foundation.
• The general perimeter is laid in the same way, but in the corners drill holes 1 - 1.2 m deep.
• Asbestos-cement pipes are inserted into the pits, or you can simply roll up a pipe from roofing material in several layers, insert it into the pit and reinforce it.

• Next, fill everything with the solution and wait for it to harden, which is about a month. In hot weather, water the foundation daily to prevent cracking.
• For columnar foundation It’s enough to drill holes in the corners, make a cushion, lay pipes, reinforce them, set up beacons for attaching the piping and fill it with concrete.

Making the strapping

• The frame is a base made of wooden beams on which the wooden frame for the greenhouse is based.
• Initially, for tying, you can take a profiled beam with a section of 100x100 mm. And knock it down with a monolithic, quadrangular structure.
• The connection at the corners is traditionally made in half a tree.
• If the timber is made from freshly sawn wood, it may subsequently move due to temperature changes. To avoid this, you can make a 100x100 mm timber for strapping by connecting two separate 100x50 timber with screws or nails.
• The option of prefabricated timber is also convenient because it can be assembled from short timbers, plus attaching a frame for a greenhouse made of wood, with such a base it is much more convenient.
• Since the harness is the base of the entire structure and is in direct contact with the foundation. And in the absence of a foundation, directly with the ground. The timber must be processed.
• One of the most affordable options is to saturate the wood with used machine oil, as a result you will protect the base for another 10 - 15 years. Plus, the oil does not give off an odor, unlike creosote when using sleepers.
• Before installing the piping, waterproofing should be laid on the foundation, usually roofing felt with bitumen.
• We fasten the harness to the foundation using the reinforcement beacons left earlier in the foundation.

Installing walls

• The first thing to start with is installing corner posts. For them you can use 50x50 mm timber, this may be enough. But we recommend making more powerful ones corner posts, making them in the form of a corner, connecting 2 beams, 100x50 and 50x50. In the long run it is more reliable. And then it is more convenient to attach such a corner to the base.
• Next, when making a wooden frame of the greenhouse from polycarbonate, you should connect the corner posts at the top with 50x50 timber. If possible, connect with a solid block and then install transverse vertical struts in increments of 50 - 70 cm.
• If there are no bars of the required length, do it gradually. Install vertical spacers and, sequentially, fill the top bar on them.
• You can make wooden frames separately and then assemble the walls like a construction set, a greenhouse from wooden frames, is convenient because, if necessary, it can be easily disassembled and it is convenient to carry out fragmentary repairs, but it requires more material, and as a result, it is more expensive.
• Two vertical supports for mounting doors are made at a distance of 80 cm; it is better to make them reinforced, from 2 planks, especially the support on which you plan to hang the doors. And don't forget with opposite side for ventilation.
• There are vents in the side walls and roof, at your discretion, but each vent increases the cost of the structure.

Making a roof

How to make a wooden greenhouse is half the battle, we already know, now let’s move on to the roof.

• We will consider traditional version gable roof with a ridge at the top.
• The roof should be planned depending on the amount of snow in your area. If there is a lot of snow, do not spare material and make a roof with steeper slopes.

• If the winter is not very snowy, you can get by with a flat option.
• If your greenhouse is made of wooden frames, then the roof can also be made collapsible from wooden frames. Then it will be possible to remove the roof altogether for the winter.
• But in collapsible ones, wooden roofs there is a risk that they may be killed over the winter.
• In any case, first we make the roof frame. A 50x50 mm block is quite suitable for this.
• We place the top beam first; we will mount the ridge of our roof on it. To do this, we knock down the rafters at the beginning of the structure and at the end.
• Next, if there is a solid block, we connect both structures.
• If there is no solid strip, then we stretch it between installed structures several strings of fishing line and along them, gradually, we build up the upper beam and install the roof rafters under it.
• For our 6 meter structure, lay 2 intermediate slats, 2m apart, between the side walls, horizontally at the top. Place a spacer on them in the middle under the top beam of the roof.
• Or you can simply install 2 wooden posts supporting the roof, if they do not interfere with you in the middle of the building.
• In the case where the roof will be assembled from frames on the ground and then laid in sections, you will need to make a gap between the ridge and rafters equal to the thickness of the frame.
• The frame, in this case, should be placed under the ridge and then attached to the side wall.

Sheathing with polycarbonate

Pay attention! Since we are building a greenhouse from wood, the polycarbonate for it must have a thickness of at least 4 mm. Plus a standard sheet, 2.1m wide and 6m long. Must weigh at least 10kg. If less, then you are offered polycarbonate intended for other purposes.

You can attach the sheets in different ways, but the most common way is this.

• The sheets are fastened using a special profile; it has the shape of a lying letter “H”. This profile has options for fastening directly to the supporting post and then polycarbonate is inserted into it. Or just end-to-end, between the sheets.
• The polycarbonate is closed at the end with a U-shaped profile. But between the sheet and the U-shaped profile, you should definitely lay a vapor barrier tape. We categorically do not recommend using adhesive tape for these purposes, as there will be no air circulation and condensation will begin to settle.

Tip: ventilation holes should be drilled in the end U-shaped profile in increments of 30 – 40 cm.

• Mount polycarbonate vertically to allow moisture to drain out.
• Polycarbonate sheets should be bent strictly perpendicular to the internal honeycombs, otherwise there is a high probability of the sheet breaking.
• To install sheets, you should purchase self-tapping screws equipped with sealing washers. Do not use ordinary self-tapping screws for wood. Water will get into the honeycombs and if frost hits, the sheet may tear.
• A special tape is placed between the polycarbonate sheet and the wooden stand for sealing.
• The holes for the screws need to be made a little larger than the screws themselves. For example, if you have 5 mm screws, then make the holes 6 mm. When heated, polycarbonate is slightly deformed and by making a reserve you give the opportunity to compensate for the shift of the sheet.
• Mounting holes should not be made too close to the edge of the sheet. The minimum distance from the edge is 40 mm. Otherwise, there is a high probability that the edge of the sheet may burst due to stress.
• Polycarbonate sheets should be cut with a regular construction knife. If you have a thick sheet, you can use a jigsaw, but after finishing the cut you should carefully shake out the sawdust from the honeycomb.

Conclusion

Now, dear reader, you have an idea of ​​how to build a greenhouse out of wood, and with your own hands. As you can see, this is not difficult and is quite accessible to any person who has basic skills in working with plumbing and carpentry tools. And most importantly, it is a great pleasure from big harvest whom you will treat, your family and friends. Good luck to you.

The video presented in this article clearly shows how to build a lightweight greenhouse without a foundation.

Appearance of a polycarbonate greenhouse