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How to build a greenhouse out of wood with your own hands - a step-by-step guide. Do-it-yourself greenhouse made of wood under film: personal experience How to make a greenhouse yourself from wooden blocks

As soon as the snow melted and the soil in the garden dried out a little, I took up a new structure for growing tomatoes.

There were doubts: to buy a factory-made greenhouse made of polycarbonate or to make a proven design based on experience. I chose the second option. In our area, polycarbonate, even with regular ventilation, creates too high temperature in hot weather: tomatoes bake.

The simplest requirements for a greenhouse

I have been involved in dacha affairs for a quarter of a century. All this time I had to conduct all sorts of experiments on growing vegetables and create various shelters for them.

Basic requirements for protective structures plants in the country:

• cheap design, which vandals are not particularly interested in;
• optimal conditions for growing vegetables;
• ease of manufacture;
• available materials for construction;
• Not complex care behind the greenhouse;
• Convenient work with plants.

The issue of durability of the structure is also important, but my structures have not lasted more than six years yet. I make them from the most accessible materials: wood and film, and there are many features.

I assembled my first greenhouses from poles, bringing them from the forest. They were obtained practically free of charge, but preparation and transportation take time.

Then he began to use a simpler method: to assemble a wooden structure from waste lumber.

There is a sawmill in the village, the owner of which gets rid of substandard trimmings, selling them to the population for firewood. These are ordinary slab boards and incomplete profile bars, which are excellent for constructing a wooden frame.

Using a homemade circular saw, they make good slats for a greenhouse and film fastening.

At the same sawmill I ordered 4 six-meter bars 5x5 cm and 8 three-meter ones. They didn't sell for much. They brought it for free.

I debunk 4 myths about a greenhouse made of film

Widely established production of factory models different designs and polyethylene films is due to their need, although it requires a massive advertising campaign.

In order to increase sales, myths have been created and real facts about various materials and technologies. Our task, as a consumer, is to reliably understand this information.

Myth No. 1: film lasts one or two seasons

This opinion is real, but it is built on two principles:

1. Polyethylene really breaks down sunlight and wind loads: its service life is limited.
2. The way the film is attached affects its service life.

Which film should you buy?

Sales offer a wide range of polyethylene films for greenhouses. Among them you can actually find those that will last one season, or even less.

This is what my western neighbor’s greenhouse looks like in the spring after two seasons of operation.

Available for sale wide choice films made of polyethylene or polyvinyl chloride. They may be:

• simple composition;
• reinforced;
• with light-stabilizing, antistatic, heat-stabilizing additives and other improving additives;
• of various thicknesses.

I'm buying plastic film, but pay attention to the thickness. It should be 200 microns. Manufacturer: Polimir plant.

Its color depends on the added dyes. In cold climates it is recommended to use orange shades. They help heat the greenhouse from the sun's rays, but their service life is shorter. My choice is ordinary transparent varieties without dyes.

During the second season of operation of the old greenhouse there was a large hail storm. It penetrated not only the film on the greenhouses, but also the roofing felt on the roof of the neighbor’s barn.

I did not seal these holes with anything. They remain and do not expand over time, although they have turned black in 4 years, everything continues to work normally.

How to properly attach the film

The main mechanical load is created by wind. The windage of the structure is huge. If you make the sheathing of the sides larger, the air pressure will be high and the tensile force will increase.

Due to this, the film will be constantly subjected to significant tensile loads when there is a gust of wind, like on a poorly designed greenhouse.

In the next photo I show the greenhouse of my northern neighbor. Its length is 6.4 meters, width - 2.5. But the height is a little small for me - 1.7 m in the center. As soon as I entered, I immediately had to bend over.

On this structure, the length of the sheathing is about 50 cm. The greenhouse has been standing for four seasons now.

Myth No. 2: wood rots quickly in a greenhouse

On the one hand, this is correct. The humid environment, elevated temperature and soil do their job.

This is what the wooden posts look like in my old greenhouse, which were buried in soil for several seasons. I didn’t pay attention to this when caring for vegetables in winter, thinking that they were standing on bricks. I discovered it in the spring, when the structure was a little askew.

You can extend the life of wood by protecting it. It is enough to treat it with antiseptics or soak it in mineral oil, for example, from any internal combustion engine.

A layer of waterproofing from the ground is important, for which you can cut plates from ordinary PET bottles.

However, all the rest of the wood on the structure remains healthy, intact even under the film.

Myth No. 3: it is necessary to build a foundation for a building

Of course it won't hurt. But a properly created foundation should be located below the depth of soil freezing in winter. Only in this case the greenhouse will not move due to frost and will remain stable when the soil melts.

Such foundations are needed for stationary glass structures that have increased weight. Glass is quite fragile; it cannot withstand bending or distortion and requires reliable fixation.

Lightweight structures made of wooden slats and it doesn’t make much sense to install films like that. Winter movement of the soil does not harm them, and a slightly moved greenhouse is not difficult to correct in the spring.

I use ordinary sand-lime bricks for installation, just like my northern neighbor in the country. This is what his greenhouse looks like from the inside in spring.

Bricks under the posts replace the foundation.

Myth No. 4: the greenhouse must be installed strictly in the horizontal plane

This ideal option, but we live in the real world. My entire plot is on a slope. Moreover, the slope goes from north to south.

I don’t see the point in wasting energy on even a greenhouse. It has been standing well and tilted for six seasons now. It will also serve this summer, even taking into account the fact that, due to my oversight, the wood was in contact with the ground in some places: it was rotten and warped.

How to choose the optimal and simplest design

Height of the structure

It should be selected taking into account the growth of the gardener. Working in a bent position is difficult, and even dangerous in old age.

With my height of 180 cm, the height of the passage is 2 meters.

Width

Here you need to think carefully about the location of the beds for growing vegetables, as well as the size of the passages between them. My old design is made 2.1 m wide, which is not very convenient for work.

This is especially noticeable in the middle of the season, when the tomatoes grow: you have to trim them too much and tie them up. All this briefly eliminates the need to maneuver between them, moving with extreme caution.

In the new greenhouse, taking into account previous mistakes, the width was chosen to be 2.4 meters. The location of the beds and the passage remains the same.

Structure length

Here, each owner can choose his own size based on the need for growing vegetables and rational planning of film consumption.

My size is 5.2 m.

How to plan a wooden structure for film consumption

I assume that the film is sold in a rolled 1.5 meter sleeve, which needs to be cut lengthwise. The width of the canvas is 3m.

Let me make a reservation right away that the sale also offers six-meter wide sleeves. People use them, but I'm considering the regular option. It can be placed in two ways:

1. along the axis of the entire structure;
2. or across.

Northern neighbor scheme

His greenhouse has maximum length, which can be created from solid timber 5x5 cm, sold at the sawmill. He places the film along the axis of the structure directly on the roof. Taking into account the slope of the slopes and the total width of 2.5 m, a three-meter film is placed without excess.

He uses the second part of the film on the sides. It cuts it into additional 1.5 m lengths and nails it to the walls. It is spent on:

• sidewall height 1.2 meters;
• allowance for fastening on top;
• reserve for burying the lower part in the ground.

The end sides of the structure for the door and window are closed in separate pieces.

Diagram of the transverse arrangement of the film

This is my option. Taking into account the selected height of the sides of 1.5 m and the location of the ridge beam at a distance of 2 m from the ground with a greenhouse width of 2.4, a little less than 6 meters goes to the transverse strip

I settle on this size and attach the film transversely with two strips. But I don’t hold them together with anything. Although I have met people who sew them with threads on a machine or solder them in various ways. I consider such connections unreliable.

I simply lay one strip on top of another on the roof, creating a total area of ​​about 20 cm. I use the small remaining margin to cover the joints at the ends.

I close the walls with the door and window separately.

Since each greenhouse is created for specific conditions for growing vegetables, stage of the project, its design must be carefully thought out and calculated. Only in this case will it be built quickly and economically.

Do-it-yourself greenhouse made of wood under film: my construction technology

Required Tools

You will need the simplest carpentry kit:

• wood hacksaw;
• an axe, preferably a regular and small one;
• hammer and chisel or chisel;
• nails;
• square;

I also prepared a drill and long self-tapping screws for holding the thick bars together. However, this tool let me down due to the soft steel bits purchased in China. They wore out very quickly from the applied loads: I had to use nails.

Sequence of work:

1. I make the sides strictly according to the intended dimensions.
2. I place them at a distance from the width of the bricks, temporarily securing them with additional slats.
3. I knock down the bottom rectangle of the frame and fasten its corners with bevels.
4. Editing door frame, a window and pillars of middle supports.
5. I'm installing a ridge beam.
6. I'm knocking down the roof sheathing.
7. I correct the overall geometry of the greenhouse and refine the places where the film fits.
8. I cover and attach the film.

Sidewall installation

On one side, three columns of equal height 1.5 m were used, as well as two beams with a cross-section of 5x5 cm and a length of 5.2 m. The cross members of the sheathing were made of scrap materials. They provide a film mounting distance of 50 cm.

Moreover bottom beam I have it spliced ​​with a mortise on the middle post in two parts. It is raised above ground level everywhere: this is protection from its decay.

By maintaining the same dimensions for all posts and beams, a base of ideal geometry is created for the greenhouse structure.

On-site installation

In the planned area, I laid out bricks under the posts and drove stakes into the ground to lean the sides against them. Then I temporarily secured all the posts with additional crossbars of exactly the same size - 2.4 m (the future width of the greenhouse).

I secured the structure with side slopes to the ground.

Thanks to the identical dimensions of the parts that form the rectangles on all sides, the basis for creating a clear geometry is laid. But it is not yet consistent: there are many distortions.

Adjusting the installation height of each column

To do this, you need to place all the bricks in one plane, digging or pouring soil under them. We remember about ramming.

When the area is horizontal, this is a little easier to do. After each adjustment of the brick, I had to walk a short distance and evaluate the result of the work by eye.

Ensuring right angles of the structure

Temporarily installed cross bars maintain size. Together with them, I embed and fasten those that will work permanently. After checking the geometry of the structure, I remove the temporary structure.

The problem of turning a movable parallelogram into a rectangle is solved by inserting bevels that form a rigid fixation of 90-degree angles. I simply nail slats in each quadrangle horizontally and vertically, assessing the position of the structure being created.

Installation of the middle part

On the prepared rectangular box I assemble the middle part, which secures the door, the window at the ends and the roof. I use six pillars of the same height.

This time the work was simplified by installing a ready-made doorway using the frame of a used sofa. I just placed it vertically on flat slate, fastened with bars to the mounted box.

Then I installed the rear end and middle posts. I attached crossbars to them and placed two longitudinal beams on top.

The ridge beam was fastened on an additional lining.

The roof sheathing slats were nailed onto it, supported by an intermediate beam.

Along the entire perimeter between the battens of the sheathing, I nailed the strips at the same height, made a chamfer with a plane, and processed the edges of the joints. This ensures a better fit of the film to preserve it.

Working with film

Taking into account the created design, I placed film strips across the axis of the greenhouse and secured them with nails through the slats. Additional pieces were used at the ends of the structure.

I made a door in the form of a frame from boards, covered it with film, and hung it on the curtains.

The bottom edge of the film was covered with earth.

I installed the window so that it opened into the building and did not interfere with caring for vegetables.

Within a few days of work, I had a greenhouse that was completely ready for growing tomatoes. If you do this work with an assistant, you can easily complete it over the weekend. The season starts in just a week.

I recommend watching the video from the owner of Green Planet, “How to make a greenhouse for less than $20.” In it you will find additional ideas that you can also implement on your homestead farming.

I look forward to your comments on the topic of how you can build a greenhouse with your own hands from wood under film.

Nowadays buy ready-made greenhouse does not pose any problem. Manufacturers offer a choice finished goods various forms, sizes and from any materials.

But building a greenhouse with your own hands has always been interesting.

Firstly, you feel proud of your own creation, and secondly, the building will be of the configuration and dimensions that you desire. And what is important, the price of your greenhouse will always be much cheaper than the industrial version.

Advantages and disadvantages of a wooden greenhouse

Before you start building a wooden greenhouse with your own hands, you should carefully weigh the pros and cons of the future structure.

It is necessary to select materials for future construction.

What are the advantages of greenhouses with a wooden frame:

1. Wooden beams can be easily purchased at any hardware store, market or sawmill. There are never any problems with purchasing material.
2. The timber is affordable and its cost is low.
3. To build a greenhouse you do not need a high-quality product. It is enough that the wood is well dried and has no obvious defects.
4. The wooden frame of the greenhouse is easy to assemble; assembly does not require special professional skills.
5. Wood is environmentally friendly pure material, it contains no toxic substances.
6. A greenhouse with such a frame has a sufficient margin of safety that will allow the building to stand for at least five years. The only advice is that it is advisable to treat the beams to protect them from premature rotting.

Disadvantages of such greenhouses:

1. A wooden building is difficult to disassemble and reassemble if there is a need to move the greenhouse to another location,
2. Still, wood is not as durable as metal and is more quickly susceptible to adverse environmental conditions,
3. Wooden structures are highly flammable, unlike products with a metal frame.

Choosing a location for a greenhouse

In addition to size, materials and shape, the location of the building also matters.

How the greenhouse is located determines whether it will be convenient to use and how quickly vegetables, fruits and other plantings will ripen.

Let's look at the factors to consider when choosing a location:

• sun exposure to a plot of land;
• surface relief;
• wind protection;
• distance to water sources, if not centralized system glaze;
• soil composition for the selected area.

One of the main conditions for harvest ripening is good sun exposure of the chosen location.

The greenhouse should be located away from tall trees and buildings. It will be best if natural light hits the building from all sides throughout the day.

The location for the greenhouse must be chosen on a flat surface. It will be problematic to install a building on a hilly piece of land, and it will also be inconvenient to use.

If the entire surface of the land is hilly, you should try to level the surface as much as possible.

It shouldn't be cold in the greenhouse. To prevent heat from blowing out of it, you can build a low fence around the building or plant some low-growing shrubs.

Heat loss is reduced by strengthening the greenhouse cover. If the coating material is glass or film, install another additional layer of material.

It is not possible to install a greenhouse on any soil. swampy area It’s not suitable for this at all; it’s also not worth placing the building in lowlands - moisture will always accumulate there.

On sandy soil the foundation will need to be strengthened. A flat hill is very suitable for a greenhouse.

Sizes and shapes

Before construction, you should decide on the shape and size of the future structure.

Sizes - the main thing is not to overdo it

As a rule, a greenhouse is not large; the principle “the bigger the better” does not work here. Firstly, different vegetables require different climatic conditions.

Let's say that tomatoes and cucumbers should not be in the same greenhouse - cucumbers need high humidity, tomatoes may not survive such humidity. Therefore, it is better to have two small greenhouses than one large, but useless one.

Secondly, a large wooden structure will be quite unstable, and even with small gusts of wind it can fall apart.

The most optimal dimensions of a greenhouse are about three meters wide and six meters long. But such dimensions are assumed if the structure has rectangular shape.

For example, a geodome has a different shape; its dimensions are determined by its diameter.

The height of the greenhouse should provide comfort when working inside it. The optimal height is two and a half meters. If the roof of the building is gable, then the height of the walls is usually within two meters.

Greenhouses that are too high are of no use - they become unstable and less warm.

Also very popular and easy to make. Step-by-step guide in our article.

A gazebo with a barbecue is a necessary and useful building for every dacha. What you need to know about construction, nuances and photos and videos.

Shapes are limited only by imagination

The shapes of greenhouses can be different, it all depends on the imagination of the builder. But still, there are typical forms that we can most often see on personal plots:

1. Semicircular or arched shape . This form is very practical, the greenhouse is less exposed to the influence of winds, and in winter there is not much snow accumulating on the roof of the building. The design of this design is very nice. But it is not very easy to make the frame of such a greenhouse from wood; usually semicircular buildings are made on the basis of aluminum or plastic arches.
2. House shape or pitched structure. This design is convenient because plants in a greenhouse can be grown in close proximity to the walls, and the space inside the building is used to the maximum. Snow and water practically do not linger on the roof. “Houses” can be rectangular or multifaceted. According to the type of roof, they can be single-pitched or gable. Lean-to greenhouses are used in cases where the structure is adjacent to the wall of a residential building.
3. Design form with flat roof . This is an unusual design for greenhouses. A perforated film is attached to the horizontal roof, in which many holes are made; in rainy weather, this structure is used for watering plants.

The photo shows a pitched wooden greenhouse built with your own hands

Building a greenhouse - step-by-step instructions

Let's consider the construction of several types of greenhouses.

Standard greenhouse with gable roof

First, we level the ground for the future greenhouse. We mark the base and place bricks in the corners and along the perimeter. If desired, the foundation can be made more durable (for example, pour concrete). Then we assemble a box from the timber and install it.

From the same timber we assemble panels for the door, rear side, walls and roof. We assemble the frame.

We cover the greenhouse with material (film, glass, polycarbonate).

If the frame is covered with film, then the work should be carried out in calm weather. Before winter, it is better to remove the film so as not to buy on next year new material. The film cracks due to frost, and under the load of snow the entire greenhouse can collapse.

Arched greenhouse

For an arched greenhouse it is better to do solid foundation. If the building will stand year-round, then the base should be made of bricks and filled with concrete.

We make elements for greenhouse arcs from wood. The arches must be made of fresh wood because they must be flexible.

We also build the frame and install the covering.

The video describes in detail how to assemble an arched greenhouse made of wood and polycarbonate with your own hands.

In the gallery you can look at sample drawings that will help you build a greenhouse out of wood with your own hands.

Planting vegetables in a greenhouse

Amateur gardeners generally do not have the opportunity to install several greenhouses for different crops. Therefore, we need to somehow make friends heat-loving plants in one greenhouse.

The most basic greenhouse vegetables V middle lane Russia produces cucumbers and tomatoes. But the climate required for both is different.

Cucumbers require a lot of moisture and little sun, but tomatoes require a lot of sunlight and cannot tolerate humid climates.

Gardeners find a way out. They divide the greenhouse in half: cucumbers are planted along the entire length of one bed, and tomatoes are planted in the other. Watering cucumbers does not affect the ripening of tomatoes, since moisture does not reach the tomato bed.

The bed with cucumbers is located on the shady side of the greenhouse, and moisture-loving vegetables can easily tolerate such conditions. In a long greenhouse, a partition between crops is often placed in the middle of the greenhouse.

Making a greenhouse with your own hands is not only economically beneficial, it also brings pleasure from the process of creation. In addition, a thing made with one’s own hands is always done conscientiously, because it is done for oneself.

Making a greenhouse out of wood with your own hands is not at all difficult - you just need to have the material, tools, hands and desire.

For a professional gardener, a greenhouse is an essential part personal plot. This is the only way to grow early harvest. A greenhouse made with your own hands will become the pride of the owner, and the ability to make individual dimensions is the main advantage. On modern market provided various designs greenhouses made of all kinds of materials. IN lately Polycarbonate premises were the most popular metal frame, but as practice has shown, such structures are more expensive and less warm.

Before building a greenhouse, it is necessary to take into account all the factors for the future structure: location, light advantages, area of ​​the proposed premises, choice of material, financial capabilities. Boards and beams can be purchased at any hardware store or you can use existing leftovers from carpentry work. You can make a wooden structure yourself with a little carpentry experience.

Advantage of a wooden frame:

• Wood is an environmentally friendly material and does not produce toxic fumes when exposed to ultraviolet rays;
• To make a structure, you do not need to purchase expensive tools; a minimal carpentry kit will be enough: saw, hammer, nails;
• The wooden frame is light and at the same time durable;
• If any of the elements are damaged, it can be replaced;
• Availability of material and its economical cost;
• At making the right choice wood and high-quality care for it will last up to 7 years.

The disadvantages of the design, with a competent approach, turn into its advantages. By correctly positioning the greenhouse relative to the sunny side, you can cope with the shadow in the space. High-quality processing of wood with drying oil can protect wood from the influence of chemical fertilizers and physical factors of the external environment.

Experts recommend choosing larch, spruce and pine. These rocks are durable and resistant to decay. Deciduous trees include oak, teak, and hornbeam. However, these materials are dense and difficult to process. To work with them you will need a power tool. And the price for these breeds will be much higher.

It is important to choose the right wood. The timber should not contain a large number of knots, chips, cracks, rot and blue stains. No more than 20 percent humidity is allowed . From choice wooden beams the durability and strength of the structure will depend.

Do-it-yourself wooden greenhouse: types of structures

Before installing the greenhouse, it is necessary to do all the projects correctly. To do this, it is necessary to take into account the illumination of the area, the topography of the site, wind loads, soil composition, and distance from the water source. It is best to locate the structure in a lighted area, away from trees and buildings. For gable construction the best option would be a north-south orientation; lean-to greenhouses are recommended to be installed from east to west.

Types of structures:

• Single-pitched, attached to a building or separate structures;
• Gable, have a rectangular shape and a roof slope of more than 30 degrees;
• Arched structures, beautiful in appearance and good for growing;
• A circular structure with many angles looks impressive, but requires additional vents for better air circulation.

Depending on the main coating, structures are divided into: glass, film, polycarbonate greenhouses. Film is the most economical option, however, it will only last for a season. Glass coating is a good option for a wooden frame. It retains heat and is reliable in use. Polycarbonate is modern material for covering the frame, which has good light transmission and is several times cheaper than glass. Even a beginner can cover the material.

DIY drawings of a wooden polycarbonate greenhouse

Step-by-step assembly instructions:

• Foundation preparation;
• Fastening the supporting beam;
• Making wall frames;
• Arrangement of rafters;
• Installation of ridge and wind boards;
• Manufacturing of windows and doors;
• Covering the structure with material.

To build a greenhouse, you need to prepare a site for the foundation. A large structure requires additional reinforcement. The ground is leveled, beacons are placed around the perimeter and a trench is dug 10 cm deep and 20 cm wide. Typically, greenhouses are installed on a brick or reinforced concrete foundation. Formwork is built in the trench and filled with concrete, after drying they begin to lay bricks.

A lightweight option is to construct a foundation made of timber, the manufacturing scheme of which is simpler.

The perimeter of the future greenhouse is tied with timber 12x2 cm thick and treated with drying oil. Placed in a dug trench special material, treated with tar, timber is laid on top of it. The frame is erected on the finished foundation.

The supporting beam is fastened using special corners, which are installed at the stage of work with the foundation. The wood is pre-treated with antiseptic compounds to prevent rotting. The beam should be slightly wider than that used for the frame. A section of 12x12 or 10x10 cm is recommended.

Before assembling the frame, it is necessary to make blanks from the beams. Frame assembly begins with end walls, which are attached using metal corners to the supporting beam.

To create a gable roof, a beam 5x5 cm thick is suitable. First, we install the top beam on which the roof ridge will be mounted. Next, we lay additional slats at intervals of 2 m. Then we build doors and windows. After installing the frame, it is necessary to cover it with material. Polycarbonate can be secured using self-tapping screws with a special seal and profiles that are attached to the frame. An important point is to install sheets with vertical honeycombs so that moisture and rainwater flowed down them easily. A sealing tape is installed between the polycarbonate and the frame.

Do-it-yourself wooden greenhouse: the simplest option using improvised means

For many, a wooden polycarbonate structure is an expensive option. Therefore, some build a small greenhouse from simpler materials. These could be poles or old window frames. For this early spring construction of a greenhouse begins. Mark a rectangle under future design, dig holes in the corners up to 50 cm deep and install pillars one and a half meters high, then dig in several more supports along the length every 2 meters.

On the sides of the end sides, a pole 2 meters high is installed, so that they are in the middle. Next, 2 more supports are dug into the interior of the future greenhouse and a supporting pole is installed. Next, installation is carried out by laying rafters. A frame of pine poles is made around the entire perimeter. The entire structure is covered with film.

DIY greenhouse made of wood (video)

The variety of greenhouse shapes depends on the owner’s imagination; you can round the roof, give the frame a trapezoidal shape, or make an arbitrary version. The main thing is that homemade building brought a rich early harvest and gave the owner moral pleasure.

Examples of wooden greenhouses with your own hands (photo ideas)

The frame for a greenhouse can be made of metal, wood and even PVC pipes. In this article we will describe step by step the process of building a greenhouse made of wood with your own hands. Such a frame will cost much less than a metal one, and correct operation will last much longer than PVC construction.

Greenhouse size and shape

To place two beds and create a path between them, it will be enough to build a greenhouse width 2.4-3 m. Length building depends on the area land plot and the planned number of plants. The optimal length is 6 m. A greenhouse of this size is quite enough to provide fresh vegetables to a family of 4-6 people. Since cucumbers and tomatoes require different humidity and temperature regime, each crop will require a separate greenhouse.

Most often for greenhouses they use a trapezoid shape with gable roof. At the same time height structures for placing shelving and climbing plants should be 1.8-2 m.

Do you need a foundation?

A stationary glazed greenhouse or a structure made of heavy window frames better install on shallow or pile foundation 40-60 cm high made of brick or concrete with sand cushion. It should rise 30 centimeters above the soil level. The lower load-bearing bars of the greenhouse in it are attached to metal corners cast into the base of the foundation. A greenhouse on such a foundation will be warmer and suitable even for the earliest planting of vegetables. If necessary, install it stove heating with a chimney running under the shelving.

When building a lightweight greenhouse covered with film, the foundation can be replaced timber strapping. Such a structure can be easily moved to another place or even transported to another site.

You should not lay the timber frame directly on the ground - the wood will rot too quickly. Therefore, the distance from the soil to the beam should be 4-5 cm. To attach the strapping around the perimeter of the frame, pointed cuttings are hammered into tightly compacted soil metal corners 800-900 mm long. To prevent the metal in the ground from rusting, it is advisable to coat the corners with a primer. A layer of roofing material can be laid under the timber to protect it from moisture.

Timber foundation

Then the wooden strapping is screwed to the metal corners with anchor bolts, and the structure is driven into the ground. Subsequently, the gap between it and the soil is filled with earth and compacted. You can also install the harness on bricks, however similar design will be less durable.

The harness must be positioned strictly horizontally. Indeed, if the structure is skewed, there is a high probability of its collapse. Therefore, we check the horizontal laying of the strapping using a building level.

Required materials

To build a greenhouse, it is better to use pine or larch. These tree species are the most resistant to moisture and fungi. Birch or aspen beams will warp in a couple of years. To ensure that the structure lasts as long as possible and the wood does not rot, before assembling the frame, it is better to cover the bars with used machine oil, antiseptic or primer.

For the frame we will need:

A block for strapping (the base of the greenhouse) with a section of 100x100;

Beam 50x100: we will use it for racks;

Film or glass for covering;

Boards or slate for arranging the sides of beds.

It is also advisable to cover the greenhouse itself at the level of the beds with boards - this will make it stronger and allow you to save on glass or film. Polycarbonate greenhouses are made arched. It is irrational to make a trapezoidal structure from this material - there will be too many scraps left.

Advice. If you use undried wood, the greenhouse may fail. This can be avoided by replacing the 100x100 beams with paired 100x50 beams, fastened together with self-tapping screws. This option will also be more durable.

Frame assembly. Step by step instructions

For the greenhouse large sizes better prepare detailed drawing(see photo).

Greenhouse drawing

1. Minimum angle greenhouse roof slope 30°. In areas where there is a lot of snowfall, the roof slope should be steeper. Of course, this will require more materials, but the likelihood that a snow coat will push through the roof will be minimal.

2. The greenhouse can also be assembled from separate frames. In this case, it will be easier to repair it. And the frames from the roof can be removed for the winter.

3. We make markings: we stick 4 pegs into the ground and stretch twine between them. We level all sides with a building level. You can also check the horizontal and vertical position of the bars using diagonal strings stretched between the corners.

4. We attach the corner posts to the base with metal corners or dowels (wooden pins).

Fastening the beams

5. Vertical cross braces are located in increments of 50-70 cm. They are also attached to the harness using metal corners. If you are familiar with carpentry firsthand, you can also use a notch for connections.

6. To prevent the frame from becoming loose during assembly, all racks are additionally reinforced with bevels (see photo). After complete installation greenhouses remove them.

7. For a greenhouse 6 m long, it is necessary to provide two intermediate posts at a distance of 2 m from each other in the center of the structure. Spacers will be placed on them under the upper joists.

Intermediate posts in the center of the greenhouse

8. To give the greenhouse strength between the side posts, it is better to provide stiffeners (diagonal crossbars).

You can strengthen the structure using diagonal crossbars

9. Rafters - a system of inclined beams (legs), racks and struts for the roof - are assembled on the ground on a flat base. In order to assemble them perfectly evenly, a cord is pulled between the outer rafters. To strengthen it, it is better to immediately connect the trusses cross beams. (Terms are called supports assembled from bars on which they are laid rafter legs).

Rafter system

10. Using metal corners, ready truss structure mounted on racks.

Attaching the rafters to the frame

Rafter connection

11. Install in the greenhouse 2 doors in the end walls. The distance between the door supports is 80 cm. They are reinforced with additional strips. door handle It is better to attach it to an additional board attached to the main beam.

12. Ceiling joists and vents are mounted with clamps or self-tapping screws.

Until recently, a wooden greenhouse was a kind of classic, and metal was not used very actively for greenhouses. This is not surprising: there was lumber waste in almost every yard. Why pay for metal when you have free consumables at hand? Today, of course, the situation has changed, but not critically.

This article contains the necessary information about building a wooden greenhouse with your own hands - step by step instructions on installation plus tips regarding the advantages of the material and its choice.

Wooden greenhouse: advantages, choice of wood, construction

If you are planning to build a wooden greenhouse with your own hands from polycarbonate, then the following information will be very useful.

Advantages of wooden greenhouses

The most important advantage homemade greenhouses made of wood - their thermal conductivity is low compared to metal ones. These words may seem frivolous - the total area of ​​wood adjacent to the polycarbonate coating is not that large. Here's the thing: the metal quickly cools, cooling from the polycarbonate or film adjacent to it, then transfers the cold inside the greenhouse. With wood, this process occurs more slowly.

It is worth mentioning the availability of materials for installation: boards and beams/logs are sold in all stores dealing in goods for construction and repair. You can also use scrap lumber from carpentry work or take timber/boards after disassembling something.

Even with basic carpentry skills, you can make a beautiful greenhouse with your own hands

Choosing a wood species

Most best option wooden frame of the greenhouse, assembled with your own hands - larch, of course. It is very resistant to moisture and fungi, so rot or mold is unlikely. In addition, the greenhouse will turn out to be almost eternal - the larch only becomes stronger over time, as if turning to stone. This breed has no disadvantages, except perhaps one thing: a very high price.

Oak, in its performance characteristics, is very close to larch. Depending on the variety, the wood may be a little harder or softer, but its biostability is at approximately the same level. The price tag for oak and larch lumber is steep, so the mentioned species are rarely used for the construction of wooden greenhouses.

Beautiful wooden greenhouses are built with your own hands from oak and larch; the photo shows an example of a glazed structure

The best option for a do-it-yourself wooden greenhouse is pine. It is quite durable, resistant to moisture and fungi. Of course, for long-term, problem-free operation, constant care of the frame will be required: periodic treatment with hydrophobic, antiseptic compounds or painting. The price tag here cannot be called very low, but the construction of a greenhouse will not hit your pocket hard.

Please note:Spruce is very similar in performance characteristics to pine, only its wood is quite soft. This makes it impossible to use spruce for the construction of large-scale greenhouses. But a small greenhouse with an area of ​​up to 7 m2 is possible if desired. In no case do we use birch or aspen for manufacturing - they are not resistant to rotting and are highly warped by moisture.

DIY pine frame

Designing a greenhouse made of wood

Before you build a greenhouse with your own hands from wood, you need to design it correctly. First, we decide what type of greenhouse is needed - we look at photographs in available sources, select the designs we like. We are guided by the following:

• Location of the plot allocated for construction in the village.
• The width and length of the area that will be occupied by a wooden greenhouse.
• Wind and snow loads in the area - the roof design depends on this.

It is clear that the photos may not fully meet your needs. Therefore, the next step will be to draw a sketch, where the structure of the wooden greenhouse will be reflected with the necessary amendments. You can also note approximate dimensions and characteristics here. building materials. For example, let's take a small village greenhouse that does not require serious calculations.

Do-it-yourself wooden greenhouse, in the photo there is a frame covered with film

We continue to make a wooden greenhouse with our own hands, drawings will be the next step. Based on the finished sketch, we make drawings of the greenhouse. Here we operate with exact numbers and carefully calculate everything. On each projection we set the dimensions of all elements, even if they are identical. Be sure to mark the fastening points. Additionally, the drawing notes:

• Quality, section of lumber.
• Quality, sizes of fasteners, separately for each variety.
• Quality, quantity of other hardware.
• If we are making a foundation, then we enter the grade of concrete, the fraction of sand, gravel, and the section of the reinforcement.

Project wooden greenhouse made of polycarbonate with your own hands, drawings are made with exact dimensions

Note: We always start making drawings with a projection of a completely finished building. Next, we “undress” the greenhouse and disassemble it into separate parts. We draw the entire frame from different angles, then draw individual nodes and elements. The larger the structure, the more detailed the drawings should be.

To design a wooden greenhouse with your own hands, the drawings should be as detailed as possible

Construction of a greenhouse made of wood: frame of the lower part

We will make a simplified version, without building a foundation. The base will be a timber frame 8 x 15 cm. We will not lay it on the ground - along the perimeter of the frame, at a distance of 60 x 80 cm from each other, we screw pointed trimmings metal corner. Turn the fully assembled harness over so that the corners face the ground.

We recess the entire wooden structure so that there is a gap of 5 cm from the soil to the timber. We periodically apply a building level, making sure that there are no distortions. This point should be taken very carefully, since a deviation of several degrees can cause the entire building to skew.

At the first stage of building a greenhouse, we assemble the lower frame from wood with our own hands

Next we move on to installing the corner posts. They are exhibited according to construction level, are fastened with dowels, as in the figure below, or with steel corners. We fix each rack with temporary supports until the top frame is installed. By the way, in this picture you can see the method of joining the elements of the lower trim - here it is a half notch.

Advice on how to make a greenhouse out of wood with your own hands: corner posts installed using steel angles or dowels

Now we install the intermediate racks. WITH bottom trim they are joined using a full or incomplete half-cut, the final fastening is made with a steel angle. Like corner posts, we provide temporary fixings for intermediate posts. What a complete and incomplete cut looks like can be clearly seen in the figure:

Two options for cutting intermediate wooden posts

The final stage of assembling the frame of the lower part is the installation of the upper trim. It is made with the same timber as the bottom one, only the elements are not joined by a notch - they are simply adjacent to each other. After the top strapping is done, remove the temporary fixation.

Frame without roof

Installation of roofing, doors and windows

First we collect on the ground roof trusses. Then, using a steel angle, you need to secure them to the top trim, providing them, like racks, with temporary fixation, which we will remove only after the frames for the transoms are mounted.

Rafter trusses installed on the top frame

Please note:We make the door the simplest: a rectangle of timber with several stiffening ribs inside. We hang it on two or three pairs of loops. If necessary, we cover the lower part of the frame around the entire perimeter with a board to form a kind of base.

Door installation

We return to the roof: we need to install the frames for the transoms. They are not mounted entirely, but are assembled from separate parts directly on the rafters. The following figure clearly shows the principle by which this is done. We hang transoms on the finished frames - each with two hinges.

Transom installation diagram

It remains to modify the frame a little. Assembled structure It will turn out very strong, but additional rigidity will not hurt. We provide this by installing plank triangles. They are fixed at key nodes - approximately as in the photo below. Ready frame We treat it with hydrophobic and antiseptic compounds and let it dry thoroughly.

Reinforcing the frame with triangles from boards

Installation of polycarbonate

The final stage is covering the wooden greenhouse with polycarbonate. When cutting material, we start with the largest parts, then moving on to the small ones. We take into account that the joints of the sheets must necessarily fall on the rafter legs or support posts. On the roof, if the distance between the rafters is very large, we will organize the sheathing, as in the figure. Protective film We remove it from the material immediately before its installation, and not after or long before.

Note: Polycarbonate sheets cannot be laid overlapping. Firstly, a tight connection will not work, and secondly, it will suffer appearance the entire structure. Therefore, we work strictly in tandem.

This greenhouse made of wood and polycarbonate can be assembled with your own hands in one working day.

And now a little about the features of installing polycarbonate. It should be made only with special thermal washers that ensure a sealed fit of the screws into the material. The following figure shows the design of thermal washers and their correct insertion into timber and polycarbonate. You can also see here that the edges of the elements are covered with a special profile - it must be present to protect the air channels from moisture and dirt getting into them.

Example of installation of thermal washers

Another example of building a greenhouse with your own hands from wood, the video covers some of the features of assembling a frame that is different from what is described in this article.