home > Window > Features and technology of wall covering with clapboard. Do-it-yourself interior finishing of a house with clapboard Wall covering with clapboard frame

Features and technology of wall covering with clapboard. Do-it-yourself interior finishing of a house with clapboard Wall covering with clapboard frame

Lathing under the lining greatly facilitates the process of external and interior decoration, even the additional troubles of arranging it should not be exaggerated. The benefits of this stage are significant, especially if you have noticeable defects on the walls, which will not allow you to install the lining directly on a steep surface.

Why is it necessary to install sheathing under the lining?

Regardless of the material of the lining, whether it is natural or not, the main factor determining the quality of the finish is the degree of evenness of the wall on which it will be attached. Everyone knows that planks can be attached directly to the wall, but each defect (depression, bulge) will cause a slight distortion or difference in the level of the rows, etc. Why will the imperfection move from row to row, gaining more and more visual strength, and in the end your last row will be completely askew, and you won’t be able to close it or correct it in any way.

To prevent deformities from occurring, they first install the sheathing under the lining, and this technique is used in almost 99% of cases, because it is ideal smooth walls neither in old Soviet houses nor in new ones. Even if outwardly you do not see unevenness, test the wall using a level or plumb line, measure its length at the bottom and at the top, and the hidden enemy of a beautiful finish will be revealed.

The essence of the lathing is simple: it is a kind of mesh made of wood or metal (plastic is also found today), which helps to raise the lining above the wall, and the evenness and attractiveness of the finish will depend only on the level of the lathing, but the imperfections of the wall will be hidden under this frame.

Lathing for lining - choosing material Today, there are three types of materials for sheathing, all of them have their own advantages and disadvantages; we will try to briefly touch on the most important ones. Let's start, perhaps, with wood, as the most familiar and accessible material to us. Bars with a parameter of 2.5-5 cm are used under the sheathing. This range is given to be able to choose the optimal option for different types

But everyone knows the disadvantages of wood: easy flammability and intolerance to moisture. Of course, today all this can be solved with the help of numerous impregnations, but you can change your habits a little and choose metallic profile. These are galvanized corners, from which the same mesh-like frame is built, onto which the lining dies are then attached. It does not have the disadvantages of wood, but has its own, for example, a high price. Plastic frame not at all as accessible as the previous two, and very specific, produced more often for special needs than for common use. Therefore, it can be ignored.

The site’s site masters have prepared a special calculator for you. You can easily calculate required quantity linings.

How to make a sheathing for lining - methods of fastening

Counting the number required material for the sheathing, they start with the project, that is, how it will look (the mesh or guides will be in only one plane), what size the planks of the lining are planned, which will be used for finishing, whether the room will be insulated (then the insulation is placed in the sheathing). When calculating the geometry, you should remember that first a frame is made around the perimeter, and then intermediate ribs of the sheathing are mounted at the same distance from each other. The distance between them should be such that the lining strips do not bend.

If the planks are long, then several supporting elements of the sheathing should be placed under them. If you use insulation, you should also take into account its dimensions, for example, the parameters of a mineral wool sheet. Moreover, the sheathing cell needs to be made a little narrower (literally a centimeter) so that the insulation fits tightly. At the stage of creating the sheathing, all communications are laid; they will successfully hide under the lining, without bothering the eye on top of the finish; this, so to speak, is an additional bonus of using this frame.

The location of the lathing can be horizontal (the bars are located only parallel to the floor), vertical (perpendicular to the floor) and using a counter-lattice (this is the mesh-like frame). The latter option is rarely used; then another layer of bars is attached perpendicularly on top of one layer, resulting in a grid with square cells. This is done when using insulation or for increased ventilation of the finish.. And the direction of a conventional sheathing is determined only by the location of the lining strips; the bars and trim strips must be perpendicular.

If the lining is attached parallel to the floor, then the sheathing bars should be vertical; when the planks are located perpendicular to the floor, then the sheathing should be horizontal.

How to make a wooden sheathing?

If your choice fell on wooden sheathing, then further you will find everything necessary advice and recommendations for correct installation. We will not discuss how to make sheathing for lining from other materials due to their rare use in private repairs.

How to make a wooden sheathing - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Marking the Frame

The frame is considered to be the perimeter, that is, the basis of the foundations, so you will outline the boundaries and know the total area that needs to be covered with intermediate slats located at the same distance from each other. Already at this stage, all defects in the wall should be carefully leveled, because the frame will be used as a guide for filling and leveling all intermediate support elements. To do this, actively use a plumb line or building level(depending on the direction of the sheathing). In case of uneven contact of the block with the wall, place substrates (wedges) under it. This way you will achieve a flat surface that will rest securely on the wall and not dangle in the air.

Sometimes you will have to work in reverse order, do not put additional material, and grind down the existing one, make the bars a little thinner to level the base. To understand whether to lay down material or cut it off, when marking, you need to determine the nature and number of irregularities in the wall, calculate the most protruding part, the amount of its protrusion, as well as the number and nature of smaller defects. After weighing all this, you can decide what will be more practical and easier to do.

Step 2: Frame installation

Having marked everything and determined how to eliminate defects, it’s time to attach the guides around the perimeter. This is done with dowels and screws, and the fasteners should meet every 25 cm. Having created the edging of the sheathing, check the uniformity of the created plane with a level. The frame also includes fastening the beams around the openings for windows and doors; they also need to be surrounded, as it were, with a wooden border in order to properly secure the lining there.

Step 3: Creating the intermediate part of the sheathing

Now all the remaining material for the planned project is being filled in. Do not try to place the ends of the intermediate bars close to the frame along the perimeter, and there is no point in connecting them. Leave a small gap in case the wood expands or shrinks, so that these parts do not warp each other in case of seasonal changes. They also need to be secured with dowels and screws, so even without fixing them to the frame, the intermediate elements will hold together well.

You should start fastening each beam in two places - one screw at the top and bottom. Then examine the entire wall, which defects fall under the fixed beam, determine the type of substrate, level the plane using a level or plumb line, and only then fasten the entire structure with a screw. This is how each batten of the sheathing is verified, and as it is ready, periodically inspect everything to ensure compliance.

Step 4: Finish work

When you have secured all the beams, you should do a final level check. Why do we place such emphasis on this in every step, because this is why the lathing is done, in order to perfectly align the wall. Otherwise, finishing with clapboard will immediately reveal the imperfections of your home, so mistakes here are unacceptable. If the check shows that the wall has become level, you need to do finishing touch– treat the wood with impregnations against mold, fungi and fire. After they have dried, you can begin the planned finishing of the room.

Do-it-yourself lining is done quite simply and does not require special qualifications, so if you delve into this process, you can install the lining yourself, while saving a considerable amount on the work of a craftsman.

It is also worth noting that modern additional elements for lining, called moldings (they are shown in the figure), make the installation process easier.

Work begins with the installation of guides, which should be mounted across the direction of the future lining. Together, ready for cladding, these guides form a frame for the lining (frame for lining).

For wooden lining used wooden slats as guides, for plastic ones - metal ones using “U”-shaped holders.

U-shaped holders are used in the construction of all types of frames for plasterboard structures.

Wooden guides are pre-primed alkyd primer or special impregnation to protect wood from moisture. In addition, they must be free of cracks and knots over the entire width and thickness of the guide (beam).

The installation of vertical guides begins with fixing the corner rails level on dowels in increments of 40 cm, then pulling the cords - on top of the rail, in the middle, below. Intermediate guides are installed along the cords.

If in the process of installing the guides it is necessary to make a gap between the wall and the guide (for example, if there is a hole on the wall and the guide is drowned in it and does not reach the cord, or the surface is deviated from the level), then it can be placed on gypsum mortar and after it sets, secure it with dowels, but it is better to place wooden wedges under the guide.

Horizontal guides are installed in a similar way. The first guide is installed on top, the bottom one is installed along plumb lines that are applied to the edges of the installed upper guide.

Thermal insulation of polystyrene foam or glass wool can be laid between the guides at their thickness.

The lining is attached to a wooden frame using self-tapping screws, nails, clamps or staples; when working on a metal frame, nails and staples are not used.

There are two ways of facing with clapboard: with hidden fastenings and with open fastenings. IN utility rooms you can use cladding with open fastenings, but in residential premises it makes sense to use closed method fastenings

The figure shows examples of closed fastenings on a wooden frame, as well as brackets for fastening lining on metal frame. In addition, the bracket can be attached to a wooden frame, but using nails to fix the bracket to a wooden beam (guide). They are attached to the metal profile using frame screws with flattened tips, called “fleas”.

Lining is high-quality, aesthetic, and most importantly, environmentally friendly pure material, which is often used to decorate the walls of residential buildings. IN modern conditions, when there are so many synthetic materials on the market, it is the lining that makes it possible to create a very pleasant, warm atmosphere, good microclimate. In this article we will look in detail at how the interior decoration of a house with clapboard is carried out in accordance with all the rules, reliably and competently.

Basics of installation technology

Install the lining in wooden, timber, frame house not difficult at all with my own hands, you can perform such finishing in a cottage built of brick, in frame buildings and other residential structures. In order for surface cladding made of wood to be of high quality, it is important to follow the installation technology and carefully select the material. You also need to decide in advance how exactly the lining will be installed: horizontally or vertically.

Typically, for interior wall cladding in a wooden building or other types of residential buildings, a material made from the following types wood:

birch;
larch;
Linden;
aspen;
pine.

There is also a modern synthetic material– plastic lining. It is easy to install, weighs little, is quite cheap, but, of course, it will not create the same favorable atmosphere as natural wood. The only condition under which a plastic analogue will be the preferred material is high level humidity in rooms. For example, in the kitchen, toilet or bathroom, it is plastic that imitates natural wood that will become the best option. And in living areas and the hallway of your home, you should use exclusively natural wood. The undoubted advantages of wooden lining are excellent sound insulation, long-term operation, heat retention and, of course, a beneficial effect on human health.

Lining made of wood is divided into several types:

variety "Extra"– the most expensive and high quality;
variety "A";
variety "B";
variety "WITH".

If you want the decoration in your home to be durable, beautiful and of high quality, give preference to more expensive material.

Interior decoration of a residential building

Step 1. Preparing material for interior wall cladding. Before proceeding with installation in a wooden or any other structure, you should prepare not only the walls, but also, first of all, the lining itself. It definitely needs to be covered by special means for bioprotection, which will prevent rotting, mold and other factors unfavorable for wood.

Step 2. If you want to get lining in an unusual shade that is ideal for your interiors, treat the material with stain or special compounds that will give the desired tone.

Step 3. Dry the lining well and keep it in the room where the repairs will be done for 24 hours. This is necessary so that the panels “get used” to the temperature and humidity conditions of the room and do not shrink after installation. In addition, such “adaptation” also protects the material from drying out in the future.

Step 4. We are preparing the sheathing for installing the boards. The panels will be installed on a wooden sheathing. In order to do this load-bearing structure, you can purchase ready-made slats for the frame, but to save money you can make them yourself. This is not difficult to do: using an electric saw, slats are cut from boards with a small cross-section. Next, using self-tapping screws, the sheathing is attached to the wall in increments of 50-70 cm.

In order for the frame to be strong and its service life to be as long as possible, a slight gap should be left between the cladding and the surface of the walls: this is necessary for good ventilation. If necessary, insulation material and a vapor barrier are installed in the frame. It is also important to treat the sheathing with a primer to protect it from mold or mildew, which could damage appearance lining, and most importantly, reduce the service life of the material.

Step 5. Fastening the lining. Before starting sheathing, you should choose the optimal method of attaching the material. Can be secured with nails, clamps or staples. You can make the fasteners hidden or external, use ordinary nails or special decorative screws, staplers, etc. for fastening. The main thing is to try not to cause any damage to the material during the installation process (if handled carelessly, the wooden surface may well crack).

In case you prefer in a hidden way fastenings, the lining is fixed to the frame from the side of the groove, where it meets the tenon. The method most often used is the most accurate, but also the most complex: nails are carefully nailed into the grooves of the lining. At the same time, the fixation points become almost invisible.

They will also help you with high-quality installation of the lining special devices for such material - metal clamps. The clamp is cut into the groove of the lining with its teeth; on the other hand, it is nailed or screwed to the sheathing. It is very convenient to install wooden finishing material using clamps.

Important rules for covering the surfaces of house walls with clapboard

You need to decide in advance on the direction in which the trim will be installed: this primarily determines how the frame will be arranged - horizontally or vertically. The material is attached perpendicular to the sheathing. Horizontal clapboard cladding will help you significantly expand the room visually, while vertical cladding will help make the ceilings appear visually higher.
For horizontal cladding, start fastening the material from the ceilings to the floor; it is advisable to direct the grooves of the boards downwards. In this case, debris, bullets and dirt cannot get into the grooves, and the absence of such negative factors will significantly extend the service life of the casing.
For vertical cladding interior walls start installation from the corner. Clamps are installed in the grooves on the back walls of the boards, which must be nailed to the frame rail. The first board is fixed in the corner with nails, and the fastening points will subsequently be covered with decorative slats. Further, all work is carried out in the same way as with horizontal fastening: the boards are fixed on top of each other, lining up into a single, even sheet.
The installation is completed in the same way as it began: the last board must be nailed down, and the fastening points must be covered with decorative strips. With the help of such strips, as well as decorative corners and baseboards, all joints and corners - internal and external - must be covered. This will make the wall paneling complete.

The video clearly shows the entire installation technology:

Decorating a wooden or any other house with clapboard is a wonderful way to make interiors spectacular and fill them with an extraordinary feeling of natural warmth and comfort. A house built of stone or brick has a “cold” beauty - and such decoration can completely change the atmosphere. Give preference to quality natural materials to decorate the walls inside the house - and enjoy the comfort and beauty of your country home!

Ceilings made of lining look simply gorgeous, in modern style and emphasize individual design rooms. The characteristic stripes that are formed as a result of finishing the lining on the ceiling can visually make the room more spacious and the ceilings perfectly smooth.

Recently, lining has become a popular material and is used not only for wall cladding, but also for finishing ceilings. It is easy to work with and virtually anyone who is not lazy will be able to update their ceiling by decorating it with clapboard.

Types of ceiling frames

The first thing everyone should know is that when installing lining on the ceiling, you need to make a frame. The main task of the frame is to separate uneven and unsightly surfaces from your future new ceilings. The frame will also allow you to bring the ceiling into a single plane and provide the entire structure with good strength.

The ceiling lining is sewn on top of the frame, so you will need lathing in any case, no matter what anyone says. The frame itself is much simpler to make than a frame for plasterboard ceilings. You can use either simple wooden slats.

Choosing the material from which to make the frame is very simple. Here everything will depend on the operating conditions and the wood from which the board itself is made. For rooms where the humidity level is exceeded, it is better to use a metal profile for the frame and. For the kitchen, it is also necessary to use a metal profile, and the finishing material - lining - can already be used here.

Types of lining

In any other premises, a frame made of wooden beams will be great solution. It can also be combined with many materials. Secondly, the process of installing the lining on a wooden frame is much easier than on a frame made of a metal profile.

Lining - panel

Simulates normal wooden beam and has more simple form. It comes in both wood and plastic.

Eurolining

It has a deeper tongue-and-groove connection and a larger tenon. This technology promotes better ventilation of the room, drainage of moisture and various evaporations. Most often used for facade cladding. For interior decoration it is used more often than Lining-Shtil, since the cost of Eurolining is much cheaper.

Lining – Shtil

The material has perfect smooth surface, which does not have grooves - recesses on the front part of the board. Used for interior decoration of walls and ceilings.

Lining – American

Simulates the laying of boards overlapping, as a result of which the joint between the boards is perfectly protected from various natural influences. Often used for exterior decoration.

Tools and materials

When working with lining, and indeed with wood, you need to keep the following set of tools with you so that your lining ceilings are flawless.

An ordinary hammer.
A screwdriver or a drill with a hammer.
and a construction corner.
Accurate tape measure.
Jigsaw or hacksaw.
Metal scissors, if the frame is made of metal profiles.

The materials themselves for lining ceilings must be selected according to previously drawn up calculations. timber for wooden frame can be used from 20x20 to 50x50 millimeters.

Remember!!! The thicker the timber, the lower the level of your ceilings. The lining will hold up perfectly on a frame made of 20x20 beams.

To mount the beams to the ceiling, you need to purchase plastic dowels that come with screws. The length must be determined based on the thickness of the beams, the lining itself, as well as the length that will be recessed into concrete floor. The screw should sit perfectly in the slabs, and not hold on to them with the very tip. Usually they take screws marked 8x45 or similar anchors.

If you decide to make a frame from a metal profile, then here family budget will be devastated much more. Since the number of frame components will increase significantly and you will additionally need:

Guide profile – UD.
The profile underlying the frame is CD.
Fastenings “Crab” and “U” - shaped fastenings.
Self-tapping screws for metal.

To install the lining itself onto the frame, you can use a construction stapler and self-tapping screws with a press washer. If the frame is wooden, then you can use ordinary nails.

How to attach a wooden frame

The first step is to mark the future ceiling from the lining. To do this, you need to find the lowest point on your ceiling from which to measure down the wall 6-10 centimeters and put the first mark. It will need to be transferred to all walls using water or laser level. It is according to these marks that you will check the horizontalness of the mounted frame for the future ceiling.

Important! When using wooden beams or other wood materials, remember that they are necessary first and to increase fire safety.

Wooden beams are mounted to the ceiling strictly perpendicular to how the lining itself will be mounted. The step between the bars should not exceed more than 100 centimeters. If the finishing material is PVC panels, then the pitch of the beams should not exceed 60 centimeters.

If you decide to make the ceiling not only elegant, but also improved, for example: then in this case the step between the beams should in any case be no more than 60 centimeters. Since usually the so-called “slabs” of mineral wool or other heat- and soundproofing material They are also 60 centimeters wide. The bottom edge of all beams should be parallel to your floor and flush with the rest of the beams. Be sure to use a water level.

We fasten two beams along two walls on different sides. The distance from them to the wall should not exceed 15 centimeters. We clearly check the level not only in the middle, but also along the edges of the beams. Next, we continue to install the beams in increments of 60 centimeters, checking our work using a level at different points. In places where the timber lags behind the ceiling due to curvature, it is necessary to place wooden pads, which can be made from the remains of the timber itself. Next, we stretch the fishing line and use it to fasten the entire frame for the ceiling from the lining.

If you are not sure of the reliability of the structure you have made, you can install additional cross beams, which will also ensure the rigidity of the entire structure. You can strengthen it only at those points where, according to your plan, lamps or other elements will be installed. Be sure to carry out all the necessary wiring before installing the beam. That’s the whole principle of making a wooden frame for lining ceilings.

Metal carcass

As everyone knows, a metal profile for creating various kinds ceilings are universal and suitable for absolutely any finishing material. The frame itself and its installation system will be exactly the same as when creating a frame for suspended single-level plasterboard ceilings. Therefore, I don’t really want to repeat myself.

Lining made from tree species or MDF will be laid on the ceiling in the same way. All boards need to be prepared and cut to the same size as the distance between the walls. It is also necessary to take into account a small gap of 5 millimeters between the lining and the walls in order to protect yourself from thermal expansion. If you are not entirely sure that your walls are even, then it is better to cut each lamella of the lining to a specific location.

Important! If you plan to install the lining on the ceiling using self-tapping screws, be sure to drill holes in advance, otherwise cracks will form from the screws. If you use nails, you must use a hammer so as not to damage the lock with a hammer and front part boards.

When your clapboard ceiling is in the process of being installed, you must mark all the places for future lamps and cut holes for the wires. Once the ceiling is ready, cutting holes will be more difficult, as there will be a risk of damage.

The last strip of lining is usually installed using wedges. They must be carefully driven between the wall and the last board of the lining and, evenly tamping, drive the board into the lock. If the board is much wider in width than the remaining hole, then you need to cut it along its entire length using a hacksaw or jigsaw. Additionally, there is no need to install the lining with glue, since you will already have a durable and strong structure.

Plastic lining

Installation principle plastic lining on the ceiling will be the same as when laying wooden slats. The only difference will be that the first board of plastic lining and each subsequent one must be inserted into special guides for PVC panels. The guides have a groove in the shape of the letter “P” in which all the ends of the panels will be hidden.

Now they often make ceiling skirting boards, which already initially have this groove. There is also a collapsible design in the shape of the letter “L”, which consists of two parts. The first part is mounted before covering the frame with clapboard, and the second part is simply snapped into place at the end of the ceiling finishing. As a result general level ceiling will be pre-determined assembled frame. But when installing the lining, it is necessary to ensure that all the strips fit more tightly to the installed guides and do not diverge from each other at the joints.

Ceiling plinth

After the work on finishing the ceilings with clapboard is completed, you need to secure a corner or corner around the perimeter of your new ceiling. decorative plinth. The plinth will hide all the gaps between the walls and the lining. The baseboard is usually installed liquid nails. There are also special clips.

If there is a desire, the lining can be varnished in several layers, and also with the help of stain it can be given required ceiling shade. And only after that you can enjoy the view of your ceiling, the work on which can be considered completely finished. A lining ceiling is not only decorative decoration rooms, but also more easy option finishing.

The lining is perfect for finishing ceilings, external and external cladding walls and even door trim. Regardless of the cladding object, the panels are fastened according to the same pattern. At the same time, you can easily handle the installation of the lining yourself. Study the basic instructions and get started.

First step

Prepare the lining for the upcoming installation. Soak the material with antiseptic and fire retardant. If desired, you can additionally treat the panels with stain or paint them in the desired color.

Let the treated lining dry and bring the material into the room to be finished. Leave it for a day. The wood adapts to environmental conditions, which eliminates the risk of further deformation.

Second step

Mount the sheathing on the surface to be finished. Buy slats or make them yourself from inch boards or 5x5 cm timber. Attach the sheathing elements in increments 10-20 mm smaller than the width of the future insulation. Fix it using screws or self-tapping screws. The fastening spacing is half a meter.

Control the evenness of the frame using special tools.

Third step

Cover the sheathing waterproofing material (polyethylene film, fastened with a construction stapler), place insulation in the cells (if required, optimal material – mineral wool, lay tightly, without gaps), and then cover with a thermal insulation layer vapor barrier material(attach to the sheathing with a construction stapler).

Fourth step

Attach to wooden sheathing for insulation, a second lathing, intended directly for fixing the lining.

Attach beams or boards perpendicular to the future sheathing and at the same time perpendicular to the frame for insulating materials. That is, the method of attaching the sheathing (horizontally or vertically) needs to be determined for yourself even before attaching the first sheathing.

Treat the sheathing elements with an antiseptic.

There are several options for fastening the boards, and different fasteners can be used to mount the panels. Read the information provided and start finishing.

Mounting options

Choose the method of fixing the lining at your discretion. Factory lining initially has tongues and grooves that allow each subsequent cladding board to be fastened to the previous one.

To fix the lining, you can use staples, clamps, screws and nails. The fastening itself can be done covertly or openly.

As already noted, choose the fastening method at your discretion. The main thing is that the fixation is as reliable and high-quality as possible, and that the lining itself remains without damage. Sink the heads of nails and screws into the wood.

The most accurate and at the same time the most complex method of fixing the sheathing involves nailing directly into the grooves of the lining. This way the nails will be almost invisible.

Clippers are perfect for high-quality fixation of boards. Pick up suitable variety fasteners in accordance with the thickness of the grooves of your decorative boards. On one side of the clamp there are teeth - with them the fasteners cut into the grooves of the finishing material. On the other hand, the clamp must be nailed or screwed to the frame. As a rule, nails are initially included in the set with clamps.

An option for fastening the lining is also available, which involves the use of special brackets. In this case it is used mounting gun. The bracket shoots a groove in the board and secures it to the frame. To perform such installation you need to have the appropriate skills.

The lining is treated with the necessary impregnations, the battens are installed, the necessary insulation materials laid, installation method selected. Now all that remains is to attach the lining directly.

Decide on the optimal direction for placing the cladding elements - this has already been discussed earlier.

Focus on your preferences and features of the room. For example, horizontal decoration allows you to visually expand the room, making it visually more spacious.

When placed vertically, the lining will visually increase the height of the room.