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Outdoor shower made of wood. Do-it-yourself summer shower for a dacha - we do it without mistakes. Filling the tank and heating the water

Summer shower is a necessary building at every dacha, especially if there is no pond or other places where you can rinse off in the immediate vicinity. The shower is a good way to freshen up after a hot day, or to wash away dust and dirt after gardening work. You can try to build such a building with your own hands. We provide tips and instructions on how to do this with a minimum of money and effort in this article.

A little about the benefits

The main advantages of a summer shower are:

• efficiency - to heat water for bathing in the simplest design, you only need the sun; you can wash without costly and time-consuming communications;
• convenience;
• availability for production with my own hands from scrap materials;
• possibility of reception water procedures at any time of the year with good thermal insulation;
• some models allow you to shower anywhere;
• minimal maintenance costs.

Did you know? The prototype of modern showers are primitive baths that were built by the ancient Indians, Egyptians and Mesopotamians. They were partitions behind which people doused themselves with water, or ordered servants to do so. But the first showers, in which water flowed upward, were invented by the ancient Greeks. Proof of this is the images found on Athenian vases dating back to the 4th century. BC e.

Possible options

There are many options for building a summer shower. There are very simple and easy structures that take several hours to equip; There are capital ones that will serve for many years. Having become familiar with various options, you can use some ideas or use ready-made instructions as a basis.

Simple ways to arrange a summer shower

The simplest option for bathing in the country is a portable shower, which is sold in stores. It is a 20 liter water tank with a hose. The tank is hung on a tree or other vertical surface in a place that is well lit by the sun and filled with water. Once the water has warmed up, the hanging shower can be used. There is enough water in it to take water procedures for 10 minutes.

A tank equipped with a tap can also be used as a hanging container. A hose ending with a shower head is attached to it. The tank will need to be attached in a sunny place at a height slightly higher than human height (however, so that a person can reach the faucet with his hand).

One more in a simple way arranging a place for swimming is a lightweight shower structure that can be attached to the wall of any building. In this case, the wall will need to be covered special material, protecting it from contact with water, for example, tiles or film. Such a shower can be either open or closed using a screen.

The stand is convenient because it can be installed anywhere where the water supply reaches.

The common disadvantages for the first three options is openness to prying eyes and winds. Typically, people bathe under such a shower only in a swimsuit and in very warm weather.

An option that is gaining more and more popularity due to its simplicity, compactness and affordability. To set it up you will need two corrugated hoses, two rubber pedals with valves (a rubber mat with a built-in pump), a container of water, and a shower head. The principle is that a person stomps on pedals or a mat with his feet, thereby pumping water from a container that flows into the hose.

The treadmill shower can be purchased at finished form in the store or do it yourself using a car pump.

This design involves driving four wooden (or other material) posts into the ground. They need to place a plastic tank into which water will be poured. It will also serve as the roof of the structure. A hose is attached to the tap in the tank, onto which a watering can is placed. The racks are covered with moisture-resistant material. The floor is a rubber mat.

A frame shower can be made from various materials. The simplest option can be built in a couple of hours. It can be made temporary, dismountable. That is, on winter time can be put into the room and taken out at the beginning of a new one summer season.

Important! When building a summer shower, you should choose black water containers. This way the water will warm up faster, since this color attracts water best. Sun rays. In addition, the water temperature will be much higher.

The most complex and serious version of a summer shower without a foundation. This is a ready-made stationary shower stall with a door, equipped with a water tank and a tray. It is made of wood, polycarbonate, corrugated sheet, plastic or tarpaulin. The water tank can be heated either by the sun or by electricity. The cabin can be equipped with a dressing room-vestibule, in which things and shoes are left. It can also be made completely closed or semi-closed.

In addition to the design options described above, there are many design ideas for a summer shower. Using them, you can create a washing area to suit every taste and budget.

Capital buildings

In this subsection we have selected an overview of models that are made with pouring the foundation. Their walls are made of different materials:

• wood,
• gland,
• slate,
• plastic,
• polycarbonate,
• plexiglass,
• plywood,
• profiled sheets,
• bricks

It all depends on the desires and capabilities of the owner. Racks are made of metal pipes or profiles.

Basic principles for installing a country shower

To build a high-quality, durable shower, several conditions must be met:

• pick up appropriate place;
• decide on the materials from which the tank, base and foundation will be made;
• think about how the drain will be arranged;
• estimate whether the shower will consist of one room, or whether the installation of a vestibule, toilet, etc. will be required;
• depending on how you plan to use the shower - throughout the year, or only in summer period- provide the possibility of heating water.

Selecting a location

The first thing that needs to be done is to choose a good place for construction. The following factors influence his choice:

• the water will heat up in a natural way, or automatic;
• it will be poured into the tank manually or automatically;
• what materials are planned to be used for the foundation and walls;
• dimensions of the building.

So, if you plan that the water in the tank will be heated by the sun, it means that the area for the shower needs to be allocated a light one, which is located most time under the sun's rays. By the way, even if you install a heater, by installing a shower in a sunny area, you can save money by not using electricity on hot days.
The shower will need to be installed close to the water supply, so as not to carry water far, or so that the hose can easily reach it.

The choice of location will also be determined by what materials the body is made of, how much space it will take up, whether it needs to be hidden from human eyes, or whether it can fit harmoniously and beautifully into the complex of everything summer cottage. If you plan to install a tank with a heating element, then the shower room will need to be located in close proximity to the power supply.

Tank selection

The tank can be plastic, metal, polymer. A similar container can be purchased at a specialty store. You can also use any suitable thing - for example, an iron barrel, etc. - that can be found on the farm. Its volumes must be calculated based on the requirement of at least 40 liters per person. The maximum capacity volume is 200-250 l. Dimensions are selected according to the area of ​​the building.

As for the shape, a flat tank is considered the most rational - it is easier to install on any structure, and the water is heated evenly. Round and square tanks are also common today.

If you prefer metal tanks, you should note that they should be treated with anti-corrosion agents and paint (except stainless steel). Service life of metal tanks with correct processing- about 10 years. Stores usually sell containers made of galvanized, stainless, and carbon steel. The best and most expensive option is a stainless steel tank. Usually they are rectangular containers with a capacity from 40 to 200 liters.

Plastic containers can last 30-50 years. Their advantages are lightness, ease of installation, efficient water heating, low maintenance requirements and low cost. Without heating, plastic containers hold 100-200 liters. They are equipped with lids at the top into which water is poured. Unheated tanks can be round or square.

Under homemade tank You can adapt a plastic or metal barrel by cutting a threaded outlet at the bottom. In the future, you can insert a pipe or pump there.

Drain options

So, you have decided on the place of construction, the materials from which it will be made, and the type of tank. Now is the time to think about where the used water will go.

Important! If the withdrawal is not organized correctly,or is not organized at all, then after some time after use, problems may appear in the shower stall. bad smell, rot, mold.

Base and foundation

The foundation for construction can be of different types. The main ones:

The choice of foundation will depend on the type of materials from which the walls are made, as well as the volume of the water tank and technical characteristics soil.

Availability of a toilet

A country shower can be combined under one roof with a toilet. This will save space and materials. You only need to fill one strip foundation, as well as equipment for only one drain. In addition, this will allow you not to litter the site with small buildings, because most dachas cannot boast of vast territories. And this significant savings time - building one compact structure will be much faster than two.

Possibility of heating water

If you plan to use the shower not only on warm sunny days, you need to consider the possibility automatic heating water.

Can be inserted into a heated tank a heating element power 1.25-2 kW. In this design, the water will heat up for about three hours.
Heating element for heating water

Important! If you plan to install just such a tank, you should know that you will need to constantly monitor the presence of water in it - the exposed heating element will burn out when turned on. Therefore, such a container must have a constant supply of water by pump or water supply.

It is also advisable to equip it with a sensor that will show the water level.

How to build a budget outdoor shower

A budget shower can be built from metal pipes and wooden planks. You will need the following materials:

• metal pipes (40 x 40 x 3000 mm) - six pieces;
• pine boards (20 x 95 x 3000 mm) - 21 pieces;
• plastic tank with a volume of 250 l;
• screws;
• sand;
• crushed stone;
• wood oil;
• enamel for metal pipes;
• geotextiles.

Tools you will need:

• Circular Saw;
• magnetic corner for welding;
• Miter saw;
• screwdriver

Step by step instructions can be seen in the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E45E4xO9dSk. In the description of the video there is a link to the drawings.
To reduce the cost of construction instead wooden walls You can use, for example, tarpaulin or other material. However, in this case the construction will be very short-lived.

Capital construction

If you are planning a long-term, high-quality construction of a shower that can be used in all seasons, we suggest you consider the following option: on a pile foundation and with a drain in the form of a septic tank. Recommended dimensions for a comfortable shower with changing room: height - 2-2.5 m, width - 1.40 m, length - 1.90 m. For accurate calculations of materials and dimensions, a drawing will be required.

Laying the foundation

The pile foundation can be made from metal pipes with a diameter of 100 mm and a length of 2 m each. For the foundation, draw a rectangle corresponding to the dimensions of the shower body. In the corners you need to drill four holes 1.5 m deep for the piles with a garden or ice drill, or dig them out with a shovel. To extend the life of metal pipes, they are treated with machine oil before being placed in the ground.
Laying a pile foundation

After digging in the pipes, at least 30 cm should remain above ground level. The pipes must be filled with concrete.

After the concrete has completely hardened, you will need to install the timber and strapping. The frame is held together with long bolts.

Digging a septic tank

For the most simple option In the septic tank, in the immediate vicinity of the shower, a hole is dug, consistent with the dimensions of the receiving chamber, about 2 m deep. The walls are lined with brick or cinder block. Under the receiving chamber, you can use a barrel or other containers that can be closed with a lid. A gutter is brought to the receiving chamber and connected to the drain pipe. The drainage gutter is lined with waterproofing material.

Frame installation

The shower frame is a welded structure made of metal pipes with a cross-section of 40 x 40 or 50 x 50 mm. This design will allow you to withstand a 200-liter tank of water. The booth itself can be made of wood, siding, corrugated sheets, or lining. You should consider the presence of ventilation windows in the walls, closer to the ceiling.

If there is no welding, then the structure is made of wooden beams 60 x 80 mm. In this case, the booth will also be wooden. Such a shower will be cheaper. The wood must be impregnated with special water-repellent agents.

After installing the vertical supports, the top trim is made. The side frames are secured with spacers.

The floor is made of wood. In this case, it will be warm and you can stand on it without shoes. The boards in the floor are made with a gap so that water flows freely.

The door is installed last.

The plastic tank is placed on the roof and secured with straps. Selected required diagram water supply.

Shower arrangement

A major shower will require electrical lighting wiring. In this case, it is necessary to adhere to safety rules and insulate the wiring to avoid contact with water.

All interior decoration must be carried out from moisture resistant materials. For a shower that is planned to be used throughout the year, insulation made of foam plastic or other materials will be required.

You should consider the placement of shelves for detergents, hooks for clothes and towels, internal lock for doors.

Another option for the capital construction of a warm country shower- on concrete slab with a frame made of wooden boards and OSB sheets- you can watch the video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwhv_668wwo.

Did you know? The remains of an ancient shower complex, presumably dating back to the beginning of the 2nd century. BC e., were found by archaeologists in the territory of modern Turkey. It consisted of seven installations, into which water came from the main system, was supplied from above, flowed from installation to installation, and then flowed into the drainage system.

Summer shower - necessary outbuilding for summer residents who prefer to use their summer cottage both for recreation and for growing fruits and vegetables. It’s easy to make an outdoor shower cabin with your own hands, without any special skills. However, even for a simple structure, certain conditions will need to be met: choosing the most suitable location with prolonged exposure to sunlight, ensuring unhindered drainage of used water. For more complex capital structures, you will need to design and purchase the necessary tools and materials.

Video: how to make a summer shower at the dacha with your own hands

If warm time year you spend at the dacha or at suburban area, then before the start of the season it’s worth spending some time and building a wooden summer shower with your own hands. Even if you have a shower in your house, such a structure will definitely not be superfluous: in the summer heat, dousing yourself with cool water, slightly heated under the sun, is really very pleasant.

Moreover, such a structure is quite simple to install, so even not the most experienced craftsman can cope with the task.

Tools and materials

Before we start work, we need to stock up on everything we need.

• Wooden beams with a cross section of 50x50 mm and a length of up to 2.5 m. We will need from 4 to 6 such parts for the manufacture of vertical supports.
• Beams or thick boards for the top and bottom trim, as well as to strengthen the frame.
• Wooden slats for flooring.
• Lining for covering the walls of a shower stall.

Advice!
The best option would be to purchase larch blanks.
Maple, pine and ash also tolerate loads well, but cope less well with moisture.
In principle, oak can also be used, but for this purpose it is too expensive.

• Water tank on the roof. It is advisable to purchase a special container with a wide neck and a lower pipe to which a faucet and shower head are connected.
• If necessary, a shower tray (you can do without it).
• Various accessories - towel racks, shelves, curtains, etc.

In addition, we will need consumables:

• Fasteners - screws or nails.
• Concrete for installing supports in the ground.
• Materials for constructing a drainage well or.
• A product for impregnating wood and protecting it from moisture and microorganisms.

As for the tools, here you can get by with a standard set:

• Entrenching tool for excavation work.
• Devices for mixing concrete (mixer or regular trough)
• Wood saw (circular, reciprocating or hacksaw).
• Drill or screwdriver.
• Building level.
• Hand tool.
• Brush or spray for applying moisture-proof impregnation.

When everything is ready, you can start working.

Drainage options

Drain pit

Before you start building a shower, you need to understand where all the waste water will go. The easiest way is to drain it onto the ground, but this is only possible if the shower is located at a distance from the site, and even on well-drained soil. Otherwise, we cannot avoid contaminated water getting into the beds or water intake sources.

Most often, a separate drainage well is installed for the shower:

• In the selected area, we dig a hole up to one and a half meters deep.
• We protect the walls of the pit from getting wet and collapsing by installing wooden formwork, masonry ceramic bricks or old car tires.

Advice!
The price of high-quality bricks is very high, therefore, for the construction of drainage pits, they most often use broken stones, or they take stones that have been used, but still retain their shape.

• We lay drainage material at the bottom of the well. For this purpose, either pebbles or large crushed stone are used.
• We make sides on top on which the frame of the shower stall will rest.

Septic tank or cesspool

If there is a cesspool or a septic tank, and we plan to install a shower no further than 10 meters from these structures, you can simply arrange a drainage ditch:

• In the place where the shower is installed, we dig a shallow (up to 30 cm) pit. It will contain .
• From the pit to the septic tank we dig a trench up to 20 cm wide. Optimal slope towards the drainage container is about 3 - 5 cm per 1 m.
• Next, you can proceed in two ways: either concrete the bottom of the trench and cover it from above, leaving several inspection gratings, or lay sewer pipe for outdoor use. The second option is more preferable, and in terms of costs it will be approximately equivalent to the first.

At the same time, everything wastewater, formed under the shower, will be transported as quickly as possible to the septic tank, where they will be included in the process of waste decomposition and infiltration of purified liquid into the ground.

Important! If the design of your septic tank provides for regular pumping, then with the addition of a shower, the amount of drainage will approximately double. This fact should be taken into account when planning preventive measures.

Building a shower

Frame and sheathing

If we take the drawings of a wooden summer shower given in the article as a basis, anyone can build such a structure with their own hands.

However, beginners should carefully study the algorithm of work in order to avoid annoying mistakes.

• The shower stall usually has a small area with a significant height. This makes the structure unstable, which is why it is most often installed on supports buried in the ground.

Note!
This does not apply to lightweight portable showers with a slatted frame - they are usually simply tied with wire to reinforcing bars, driven into the ground.

• To install supports, we make nests up to half a meter deep in the soil.. We fill the bottom of each nest with gravel - it will prevent the stand from sagging under its own weight.
• We impregnate the lower parts of the racks with an antiseptic, wrap them in roofing felt and concrete them in the ground. After pouring the concrete, we adjust the position of the supports according to the level and fix them in a strictly vertical position.
• After this, you need to give the concrete time to gain strength.. Since the load on the supports will not be very large, the required 28 days are rarely waited: even a week is enough.

• At the bottom we attach a harness made of beams. On them we install either a pre-purchased shower tray or a grid of slats connected to gaps of 0.5 - 1 cm for water to flow out.

Advice!
The grate must be thoroughly sanded, otherwise the risk of getting a splinter in your bare foot will become very noticeable.

• We install cross members in the middle part and reinforce them with braces. We connect all the parts using nails or self-tapping screws, after pre-impregnating them with a moisture-proof compound.
• We make the upper harness from the beams. We also install transverse joists that will hold the water tank.

• We cover the outside of the shower stall with boards (lining is best). Most often, the sheathing is not brought to the floor by about 25 - 35 cm - this ensures optimal air circulation.
• We install at the front wooden door from outside and internal latches. Instead of a door, sometimes they simply hang a plastic curtain: this design is easier to manufacture, but less convenient to use.

Advice!
It is worth attaching several hooks to the outer wall next to the door.
We will hang clothes and towels on them: this way they will not get wet during water procedures.

Equipment and decor

All we have to do is equip the water supply system.

And here it is best to implement classic solutions:

• On top part In the shower we install a water tank. An industrial container made of dark plastic, with a neck located at the top and a nozzle for the shower head at the bottom, is ideal.

Note!
Instead of a factory container, it is quite possible to use metal barrels, and polymer containers.
The main thing is that the structure is sealed and does not release toxic substances upon contact with water.

• In areas where the only source of water is a well without a pump, the tank must be filled manually using buckets. To do this, we attach a fairly strong ladder behind or to the side.
• If there is a water supply on the site (no matter whether it is central or autonomous), then it is much easier to connect a hose to the container on the roof. By connecting it to the water supply, we can quickly and effortlessly fill the tank with the amount of water we need.
• In summer, the water in the tank heats up quickly. But in spring and autumn take cold shower not very nice. To provide more efficient heating, we build a rack frame around the tank, which we tighten transparent film or glass. Such an improvised greenhouse will provide comfortable temperature water even on a cloudy day.
• We attach a watering can with a tap inside the cabin, checking the tightness of the pipe.
• On one of the walls we attach a shelf for soap and a hook for a washcloth.

After this you can use the shower. And in order for it to last as long as possible, before the start of each summer season the cabin should be sanded and treated with an antiseptic, and then either varnished for external use or applied wood paint.

Conclusion

A summer shower made of wood, made according to the above algorithm, is quite simple, reliable and convenient. However, you can always make adjustments to the design by introducing either your own ideas or technical solutions, gleaned from the educational video in this article.

Owners summer cottages They are trying to supply water to the house and provide basic amenities. You can build a summer shower at your dacha with your own hands, either temporary or permanent - the type of future structure is selected depending on individual needs.

Before you build a shower in your dacha with your own hands, you need to competently carry out the design, determine the location of the future structure, and select materials. The room should be uncrowded, as comfortable and convenient for use as possible.

Selecting a location

In order to ensure rapid drainage of water, it is optimal to install the shower on a flat or slightly elevated area. You should not choose a site located in a deep depression or in a hole.

To avoid water stagnation, choose the right place to build a summer shower

It would be optimal for a country shower open area, well illuminated by the sun, which is located at some distance from other buildings. In this case, the barrel will naturally heat up under the sun, providing warm water. This condition can be neglected only if it is planned to build a shower stall with heated water.

At the same time, the site where construction will be carried out should not be too far from the house - after water procedures, it is advisable to get from the shower to a warm room as quickly as possible.

Size calculation

When building a country shower, the following parameters are used as standard:

1. height - 200–300 cm;
2. length - 190 cm;
3. width - 140 cm.

An example of drawing up a drawing of a summer shower

The indicated dimensions are very convenient because, taking into account the thickness of the walls, the building will ultimately have an area of ​​200x150 cm - this is a completely waste-free option when using boards standard sizes. As a result, 100x100 cm will be allocated for the shower stall, and 600x400 cm for the changing room.

Required tools and materials

You will need the following tools:

• roulette;
• corner;
• level;
• hammer.

In addition, you need to stock up on nails and a ball of twine. Separately, you need to purchase a tank, as well as pipes, a couple of taps and a shower divider. Brick, iron or plastic sheets, wooden boards, for the construction of the frame - pipes.

Tools needed to build a shower in the country

For foundation pouring and construction of brickwork, a certain amount of cement, sand and concrete will be required, and for final finishing - insulation materials, paint, plaster, hooks for clothes, shelves for bathroom accessories and other accessories.

Options for shower designs for a summer residence

The simplest option for a summer residence is a compact portable shower, which is suitable for one-time water treatments, has a standard volume of 20 liters and is designed to supply water for 10 minutes. The operating principle boils down to filling the reservoir with water and then heating it in the sun, after which the portable shower is mounted to a height of 2 meters and is ready for use.

Portable shower

An open shower also has a simple design, the installation process of which boils down to the following steps:

1. attaching a branch water pipe to the wall;
2. connecting a pipe and a watering can using a hose;
3. fixing the watering can holder;
4. installing a screen.

A common option for a summer cottage is the so-called change house with a shower, the design of which involves the presence of a solid modular container or a frame-collapsible block.

Options for a stationary summer shower for a summer residence

Installation of this structure is quite simple - the territory is marked, the top ball of soil is removed and leveled, a cushion of sand and gravel is created, on top of which boards are laid. A block assembled on site or a ready-made structure is installed on the soil prepared in this way.

Of course, the most durable shower will be a stationary shower, but its construction will require more effort and time.

Preparing the base

It is much easier to erect a frame structure than a permanent structure - depending on the type of structure chosen, the stages of preparing the site for construction will differ.

For a temporary structure, it is enough to simply remove 10-15 cm of the top layer of soil from the site to level it, and then fill it with sand.

For a country shower, you will need to lay a foundation, the depth of which is determined by the materials used for its construction. For example, for a brick shower, a foundation with a depth of up to 30 cm will be sufficient.

Foundation for the construction of a capital summer shower

The foundation is laid in the following sequence:

• pegs are driven into the outer corners of the future shower;
• a cord is stretched around the perimeter;
• a place for pipes is prepared (a log or branch wrapped in roofing material is laid);
• concrete solution is poured.

Advice! The formwork equipment will allow you to extend the period of operation of the shower - it is recommended to increase the level of the entire foundation by 10 cm, raising it above the ground using boards reinforced with stakes and spacers.

Drain pit equipment

The pit volume is usually more than 2 cubic meters. m, while its walls must be strengthened in order to avoid possible scree. The drain is located a few meters from the shower, but not under the building itself or near its walls - this will lead to the destruction of the foundation in the future, as well as the appearance of unwanted odors.

Equipment example drain hole for summer shower

The drain must be laid with a waterproof layer - roofing material, hydroglass insulation, PVC film or concrete screed(reinforced with metal mesh).

Attention! A common mistake is to use clay as an insulating material, which erodes and soon clogs the drainage ditch.

Installation of a frame for a temporary shower stall

If for a capital structure it is fulfilled brickwork, then for a temporary one a frame is usually installed: metal or wood. In the latter case, the wood should be treated with special impregnations that will protect it from insects and moisture, preventing the formation of fungus and mold.

Wooden frame for summer shower

1. Markings are made - a rectangle is marked directly on the ground, the sides of which correspond to the dimensions of the future country shower.
2. Wooden beams are installed, the width of which reaches up to 10 cm.
3. Bandaging is carried out - starting from the top, the structure is securely fastened with bolts, after which the beams that form the basis of the shower walls are connected.
4. Walls are installed, for the construction of which you can use either boards, slate or plastic panels.
5. The pipes are being laid out - the water supply is installed so that the pipe outlet under the shower hose is higher than the level of the head (this will provide the necessary pressure for water movement). The drainage is discharged into a sump tank or into a specially equipped septic tank.
6. The tank is installed - a threaded outlet is made, a tap with the appropriate nozzle is installed, after which the barrel is lifted up and secured.

A plastic container, which can be purchased at a specialized store, or another barrel available on the farm, is suitable as a tank for a country shower. It is desirable that it be flat and proportionate to the area of ​​the building so that the weight is evenly distributed over load-bearing structure. Its volume is selected at the rate of 40 liters per family member, but the barrel should not be too heavy - its maximum volume is no more than 200 liters!

Solar water heating tank

Advice! So that the owner of the dacha does not have to carry water to the tank himself every time, it is possible to equip it with automatic filling.

Lighting and ventilation of a country shower

When doing the wiring yourself, it is important to follow all electrical installation rules and adhere to safety precautions. Separately due to high humidity Care should be taken to insulate the wiring.

Window for summer shower ventilation

Internal shower decoration should be made of moisture-resistant materials: plastic panels, pieces of linoleum, oilcloth, etc. If wood is used, then each individual board is covered with hot drying oil.

The concrete floor is usually covered with gratings made of plastic or wood, and rubber mats are laid on top. It is quite convenient to equip a small changing room directly in the shower. To prevent water from getting into it, the floors in it are slightly raised by a couple of centimeters - this can be easily achieved by additionally installing a tray.

Internal structure of a summer shower

Concerning exterior finishing, then similar materials that have already been used for decoration will look harmonious country house and other buildings on the site.

To use the shower not only in summer, but also in colder seasons, it is recommended to insulate it with polystyrene foam, which is placed in inner space and covered with PVC film on top. The walls are usually painted or plastered, covered with clapboard or siding.

How to build a summer shower in the country: video

Types of summer shower: photo

Nothing like relaxing after a hard time working day in the country, like a summer shower. Water not only calms, but also refreshes, distracts from unpleasant thoughts and relieves stress. But what to do if there is no shower on site? If you don’t want to splash around in a trough or basin, you need to take care of comfort in the field and design a refreshing summer shower for your favorite dacha with your own hands, using finished photos and drawings.

How to build a summer shower with your own hands

The outdoor shower occupies one of the first places among all country houses. Sometimes this is not just a way to wash yourself after a day of cultivating the land has come to an end, but also the only way to cool down in the heat.

First you need to choose a place to install the shower structure. To do this, you should examine your site for secluded places.

On the other hand, this place should not be far from the main building, so that you do not have to freeze on the way to a warm house if you decide to take a shower on a cool day.

Advice! If a solar heated tank is provided, ensure that nothing obscures the water tank.

Once you have found a suitable location, select optimal sizes for your cabin. Please note that for ease of movement a person needs a room of at least 1 m2. If a dressing room is planned for changing clothes and storing dry things while swimming, the building increases by another 60-70 cm. The height of the shower stall is approximately 2.5 m. So, the estimated dimensions of the shower for the dacha are 170x100x250 cm.

If the structure is supposed to be wooden, then the next stage of construction will be the construction of a frame from wooden beam or metal corner.

Next are the walls. Please note that for better ventilation, the walls should be no less than 20-30 cm away from the ceiling and pallet. The walls are constructed mainly from materials that were left over during the construction of the main dacha building.

Water supply in a country shower

When installing a shower for a summer house with your own hands, it is imperative to provide for the water supply and drainage in advance. The drainage system is laid during the construction of the foundation, and the supply of clean water is organized during the installation of the tank.

Dacha owners have to spend a lot of time in their gardens in the summer. And working on the land is not only an opportunity to get in touch with nature and grow environmentally friendly, “homemade” products, but also difficult physical work, after which you want to relax and take a shower.

The main disadvantage of many country houses is their lack of livability. Housing for seasonal residence often has neither water supply nor running water. It is impossible to take a shower in such conditions, so the best way out the situation is considered to be the construction of an appropriate structure on the street, where it is possible to a quick fix arrange a temporary shed, or after spending a little time, build beautiful building made of wood with one or two sections (this can be a shower and a changing room, or a shower and a utility unit).

Among the undoubted advantages of this wooden structure include:

• aesthetic appearance;
• environmental safety;
• warmth (the material is pleasant to the touch, and you can stand barefoot on the floor for a long time);
  ease of installation;
• relatively low cost (especially for assembly from scrap materials - timber and boards left over from previous construction work are used).

The obvious disadvantages are:

• dependence of water heating on the weather (for example, rain will not allow you to take a shower);
• the unsuitability of the building for use in the cold season, when gardening work is still underway.

On average, it only takes two to three days of work to build a good shower.

Of course, the owners need to have the skills of a joiner and carpenter, be able to draw up a plan and have general ideas about plumbing. If there is no opportunity or skills to self-construction, a good choice might be to purchase a ready-made outdoor one. It will cost more than construction materials, but installation time will be reduced.

Main types

Exists several common design options such a dacha building. Each owner can choose the one that seems most acceptable to him (or easy to assemble):

• The rack is the simplest open structure, including only two walls and plumbing equipment, fixed on one of the walls.
• Panel design involves mounting plumbing fixtures (watering cans and faucets) directly to the wall of the house or fence. Instead of walls, a curtain made of opaque polyethylene is used.
• A separate room in a ready-made building - such a design requires proper removal of water and steam. A house or a pure outbuilding (part of it) can be used as the main structure.
• Full cabin - best option, allowing you to take into account the features of the relief and turn the shower into a real decoration of the yard or garden, organically complementing the design. The booths can have one or two sections. Two-section construction is very practical! In addition to the shower room, under one roof there can be located: a utility unit with tools, or a comfortable locker room.

Actually full-fledged wooden shower For a dacha, only the last option in the form of a separate cabin can be considered. This is exactly the design that many owners of summer cottages strive to implement.

What is taken into account during construction?

Design features are largely determined technical requirements to the shower cabin:

• the dimensions of the structure are selected taking into account the largest family member (his height is especially important);
• the location must comply with basic technical standards (for solar heating of water, open areas are selected, and a shower with electric heating elements can be installed in any convenient location);
• the frame is calculated taking into account the weight and size of the tank (up to 40 liters of water per person, plus a reserve of 20-25 liters) - the entire structure must withstand a filled one.

It must be remembered that showers can be open and closed type(with door and capital walls). They have natural heating of water in the tank from the sun's rays or use forced heating through electric heating elements. They are built with one section or two or three sections. These technical points also affect the appearance of the building.

A typical shower structure consists of the following: main elements:

• floors with built-in drain;
• housings with a door (frame);
• plumbing fixtures (taps and watering cans);
• tank or barrel for water (installed on the roof).

However, if there is a lack of funds or unwillingness (inability) to engage in construction work, no one forbids the owners to make do with a stand or panel. This solution to the problem is relevant if the area allows you to hide from prying eyes and take a shower in peace.

How to choose a design?

In choise appearance The owners have no restrictions on the shower construction. It could be different finishes and stylization (for example, like a Russian tower), different locations on the site (separately, next to a pool, house or other building), the presence or absence of a door (windows, roof, solid walls - often only circular curtains are used).

There are buildings that include additional sections, or have open terrace for relax. Some homeowners decorate their shower walls hanging pots with flowers or paint them in bright, rich colors. Everything in design depends on the imagination and wishes of the owners! The main thing is that the building fits into general form yard or garden.

How to build?

On initial stage the owners need to draw up a plan for the future building, determining its size and location.

Here are some projects for a summer shower made of wood:

Using an accurate plan it will be easier to calculate the required quantity building materials. Timber is used for the base of the frame and the floor; the walls and floor are sheathed with boards. The door is made from the same material. The foundation requires pipes with a diameter of 9 centimeters, which serve as the basis for the pile structure.

We are installing a sewer system

The most important element designs is . It is with ensuring the drainage of used water that construction begins. Moreover, you can also use an existing one, if it is available on the site. If there is no drainage hole, it is necessary to equip a septic structure from. To work you will need:

• five to seven old tires;
• wire to strengthen the structure;
• boards or a finished manhole cover.

The hole is dug two to three meters from the shower. It is not recommended to place it directly under the building! This can lead to an unpleasant odor in the shower stall or erosion of the foundation. To ensure slow filtration of water into the ground, sand and crushed stone (at least 50 cm) are poured into the bottom of the pit, and then tires fastened together are installed. Water is drained through a plastic pipe buried in the soil or through a gutter. To do this, a hole of suitable size is cut in the top tire.

Building the foundation

The foundation is a structure on piles. Four pipes with a diameter of 9 centimeters are concreted at the corners of the future building. Each of them rises above the ground by 15-20 centimeters. Studs are welded to the top of the pipes. The ground under the building is covered with several layers of roofing material, giving this kind of pallet a slope to the side drain pipe or gutters. The pallet can also be made of concrete.

Bottom harness made from timber measuring 10 by 10 centimeters. The structure is attached to the piles using nuts and a stud already present on each pipe. The beams are tightened together with self-tapping screws and secured into a lock. To prevent rotting, lubricate the harness with used machine oil!

We install the frame, floor and roof

A frame is installed on the base; it is also made of beams. At the top there are side posts and racks forming doorway, tied with an upper bandage, also made of timber.

The floor is made of boards 1.5-2 cm thick. A small gap is left between the boards - this lattice structure does not interfere with a person’s standing and ensures free flow of water.

The outside walls are sheathed with boards, tightening the structure with self-tapping screws. At the top, between the roof and the ceiling, there are gaps of 20-30 centimeters - they act as ventilation windows and at the same time let daylight into the cabin.

The top floor is made of boards, but only two beams can be laid and secured with self-tapping screws, serving as the base for a water tank. All recommended wooden parts pre-coat the structures with drying oil. This material will serve as a primer for the paint and prevent water absorption.

We supply the shower with a tank

A plastic or metal barrel is used as the main container.

It is advisable to cover it with dark paint for better heating of water in the sun.

The optimal capacity is from 100 to 200 liters. Additionally, the roof can be covered galvanized metal or place foil under the barrel - the sun's rays will be reflected from the polished surface and absorbed by the walls of the barrel, thereby speeding up the process of heating the water.

A plastic or metal pipe with tap and watering can. To do this, a hole is cut or drilled into the bottom of the barrel. suitable hole, through which a pipe is passed external thread at the end. Stacked on top and bottom rubber seals, and then the pipe is tightened with a nut. The tap (valve) is installed using a tee, to the lower end of which a watering can is attached with or without a hose (depending on the wishes of the owner).

Door installation

At the final stage, the door is installed. Loops are used for fastening. Additionally, you can install an internal deadbolt and an external hook. The inside of the cabin is equipped with hooks for towels and a hanging soap dish. On this construction works are considered completed.