home > Overlap > An easy way to level the floor. How to level a floor in the presence of serious and minor defects: sanding, laying plywood, self-leveling floor. Self-leveling floor leveling

An easy way to level the floor. How to level a floor in the presence of serious and minor defects: sanding, laying plywood, self-leveling floor. Self-leveling floor leveling

During a major overhaul, work such as leveling the floor is carried out. This will significantly increase the soundproofing and thermal insulation properties. But few people know how to level the floor on our own. It is worth noting that this procedure should be carried out first. For this, there are the following methods: leveling the floor with your own hands using beacons, building up or pouring method. Each of the listed methods has its own pros and cons.

How to level the floor yourself?

Before starting work, the surface must be carefully prepared, that is, cleaned of all kinds of dirt and dust. If the floor has chips or cracks, they need to be puttied and then treated with a primer. After 24 hours, you can begin leveling directly. Many experts recommend covering the lower part of the wall with a special tape so as not to contaminate the surface. But this is not important. To work you will need some materials and tools:

special mixture or other material;
water;
needle roller with a fairly long handle;
drill for mixing the solution;
large containers;
Master OK;
building code;
paintshoes.

Today, quite a few different mixtures are produced specifically for leveling old floors. Some models have self-leveling properties. If you do not want to use ready-made solutions, then you have the opportunity to use cement.

To calculate how much mixture is needed for one room, you need to know how much square meters and what height of the floor you plan to raise. For example, for 1 m² for a layer of 1 cm you need about 13-15 kg of dry mixture. Therefore, 15 needs to be multiplied by the total square meters of the room. If a layer of 2 cm is required, then you need to multiply 30 by the area of the room.

If you do not want to buy paint shoes, which are expensive, you can make them yourself. To do this, you need to prepare 2 boards equal in size to your shoes, 24 screws and regular tape. Water must be prepared in advance, since dry leveling mixtures thicken quite quickly, so the liquid must be ready.

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Basic methods for leveling the floor with your own hands

First of all, you need to focus on the beacon method. It is deservedly popular among builders, as it is considered the highest quality and durable. Before leveling the floor in this way, you need to stock up on iron slats, which in other words are called beacons. As a rule, this method is used for very uneven floor surfaces and large rooms. A huge minus is long time drying, that is, it may take about a month to dry, but you will get a perfectly flat surface.

The pouring method is the fastest and easiest. It consists in the fact that the floor is filled with a special liquid solution, which is cement based. The main feature of this mixture is that it spreads completely evenly over the entire surface. This screed dries quite quickly because it has a smaller layer than with the beacon leveling method, that is, the layer should be from 3 to 35 mm in height. The huge advantage of the bulk method is low cost and excellent quality. The only drawback is that it cannot be used on very uneven surfaces.

And the third way is to build up the floor. To do this you will need wooden logs and plywood sheets, thanks to which the surface is leveled. During leveling with extensions, you can use thermal insulation material and various communications, laying them between the layers. This is a rather painstaking method, so it is used less often.

There is another way to level the floor, but it is used only when laying tiles. This method is based on the fact that when installing tile material, you need to pour large quantity solution. To do this, you need to determine where the highest point of the floor is, and, according to it, lay the tiles and pour the mortar.

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How to measure the level at home?

Before leveling the floor with your own hands, you need to make certain measurements of the height level. First of all, you need to dismantle the old floor covering and use building level(long) check the height of all areas of the room. Then the lowest and highest points are marked. Uneven surfaces may be due to the fact that the floor slab itself is uneven or is laid at an incorrect slope. It can also be caused by chipping, flaking, and so on.

If there is an uneven slope of 35 mm, experts advise leveling the floor exactly bulk method or using extensions. If the height of the unevenness exceeds 35 mm, it is necessary to use the beacon leveling method. After the maximum height point has been designated, the level near the door and balcony must be checked. Sometimes in these places the height can be much higher, therefore, you will not be able to open the door. It is possible that the heating radiator is too low. In such cases, it is necessary to raise the structures.

It also happens that the main plane is flat, but at the joints of the floor slabs there are irregularities, the seams are sloppy. Then you should use a hammer drill to knock down these irregularities, and then lightly level them with cement. This can be a cement mortar with added sand or dry floor mixes.

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Leveling the floor according to beacons

As mentioned above, in this case you need perforated metal corners, which must be placed along the room. The first strip is laid at a distance of about 30 cm from the edge of the wall, the rest should be placed at a distance of 1 m from one another. Beacons must be carefully fixed. For this you can use cement or gypsum solutions. To carry out these actions, you need to apply the solution in a row using the slap method with a distance of 22-25 cm. Metal slats are laid on top and adjusted to the level. When the beacons have set a little, the resulting voids must also be filled with solution.

After everything has dried, the floor is leveled by pouring a solution, the thickness of which should be similar to the consistency of sour cream. If the mixture turns out to be sparse, then it will be problematic to level it; if it is too thick, the surface will not be smoothed out. Therefore, it is best to stick to the golden mean. The farthest corner of the room is poured first, after which the direction continues towards the exit. Simultaneous filling of the first two rows is done. This is due to the fact that the first and last rows have a distance from the wall of only 30 cm. Next, one row is filled.

The poured mixture must be distributed throughout the entire sector using a trowel, squeezing out the voids formed inside.

Next, using the construction rule, you need to level the solution along the sector. To do this, holding the rule with an edge, movements are made from side to side (toward yourself). After the floor surface becomes level, you need to move along the beacon. The temperature for quick drying must be warm enough, so winter period It is advisable to turn on the heater.

In order to level the floor and then finish it, we need to thoroughly prepare its base. Few owners can boast of having completely flat floors in their apartment. We have floors not only with an uneven surface, but also with an uneven plane, and therefore, this has a very negative effect on the future floor covering, and also negatively affects the operation of the room. Well, let's devote our article today entirely to the initial stage of floor repair - leveling. Next, we will look at why it is necessary to level the floor, using what building mixtures You can level the floor, and we will also consider ways to level the floor with your own hands.

Why is it necessary to level the floor?

Many beginners ask the question: why level the floor? The answer to this question consists of several factors. It is wrong to perform any floor finishing on an uneven and unprepared surface.

Firstly, if you are laying, for example, then uneven floors will be immediately visible on its surface. When laying laminate or parquet on an uneven surface, it may creak in the area of unevenness or simply begin to deform and crack, especially at the joints.

Secondly, an uneven floor has a negative impact on furniture when it is skewed towards the bottom.

Thirdly, if you decide to tackle the floor, then it must be done thoroughly, and not, as people say: “a blunder.”

You can level the floor yourself, and for this you don’t have to hire a team of builders and incur unnecessary waste, because you can easily do this work yourself; there is absolutely nothing complicated about it.

Preparing the floor for leveling

Of course, before leveling the floor, it must be cleaned and everything necessary for further work measurements and calculations. Due to the fact that the preparatory stage of the floor before leveling plays a very important role important role, we will dwell on it in more detail.

Initially, we must remove the existing floor covering: linoleum, boards, floor tiles, baseboards, etc. After you have dismantled the old flooring material, the floor must be thoroughly cleaned of debris and dust.

Then, using two levels, long and small, we begin to measure the surface level and plane of the floor. What is the difference between a surface and a plane is something you need to know for any leveling work. The surface of the floor, probably everyone understands that this is the level of the floor itself, but the plane of the floor, remember the geometry course, is the location of the slab itself, or rather its evenness. In other words, we can say that the floor surface is the surface of the floor slab, and the plane of the slab is how correctly (even or crooked) it is laid.

To begin with, we take a long level and determine the so-called overall picture from it, so that we know what we have to work with. Thus, using this level, we determine the plane of the slab and its evenness of laying. Knowing the skills of our builders, and how interesting they were in building houses, very often our floor slab can be laid crookedly, which means we will need a lot of leveling mixture for that part of the slope. Next, using a long and small levels We check the floor surface itself and any irregularities on it. When we have made all the level measurements, we make a decision regarding the method of leveling the floor, which we will discuss below.

After you have taken measurements, consider laying any communications in the floor. Such communications can be pipes autonomous heating, electrical wiring, television and network cable, etc., all wires must be laid in corrugation.

The final stage of preparation for leveling the floor will be priming its surface. For some reason, some people neglect this issue, either for the sake of economy, or because they do not understand the importance this process. Firstly, the primer will ensure a high-quality and reliable connection between the cement screed and the floor. Secondly, the primer will prevent the possible formation of cracks on the leveling screed, and also promotes waterproofing. To prime the surface, carefully clean the floor surface, after which, using a roller, thoroughly treat the floor with primer, not sparing it. After 2-4 hours, depending on the room temperature, the primer should dry.

What types of floor leveling are there?

Today, 3 types of floor leveling are used:

Leveling with self-leveling floor;

Leveling using a leveling solution, “along the beacons”;

Leveling with wooden joists.

It is in the order in which we have listed the methods for leveling floors that they are most frequently used. Let's look at the features and differences of these floor leveling methods.

Self-leveling floor

The self-leveling floor is made using an appropriate mixture, which is prepared in special proportions with water in order to ensure its uniform spreading around the entire perimeter of the room. Thus, you do not need to do complex work with mixing the cement mixture, distributing it evenly and leveling it according to the rule.

This method will help you solve the problem of an uneven floor if there are minor unevenness on its surface or the plane of the slab moves slightly to the side. Based on the depth of the unevenness and the “leaving” of the slab, it is necessary to calculate the level of filling the floor, while keeping in mind that the self-leveling floor should be from 3 to 35 mm in height. Accordingly, if you need a screed over 35mm to level the floor, then this option is not suitable for you. In other cases, we recommend using this particular method of leveling the floor, due to its simplicity and low cost.

Alignment "by beacons"

A distinctive feature of this method of leveling the floor from the previous one is that a completely different leveling procedure is used here; first, so-called beacons are built along which the floor is actually leveled, that is, the beacons are the reference level, the height of the new floor.

Using this method, you can level out significant unevenness in the surface and plane of the floor. In addition, this method is suitable if you want to lay any communications into the floor, and if so, then they must be hidden under a sufficient layer of screed, which can be solved by leveling with a leveling solution.

Leveling with wooden joists

Unlike previous methods, this method does not use cement and other leveling mixtures. The alignment procedure consists of installing a few centimeters apart on special anchors. wooden slats, to adjustable height. In this way, you can raise the floor level to the height you need, and install large communication structures under the floor, or perform interfloor insulation.

This type of floor leveling is suitable in cases where you have a cold floor, most often this happens in private houses or on the first floors of apartment buildings, due to which there is space between the slab and the floor surface that can be used for laying insulation. Also this method perfect solution, if ventilation, drainage and other dimensional communications are planned under the floor.

Floor leveling methods

Once you have decided on the method of leveling the floor, having completed all the preparatory steps in advance, we proceed to the leveling procedure. We will look at each alignment procedure in more detail.

Self-leveling floor leveling

As mentioned earlier, self-leveling flooring includes a fairly simple leveling procedure. Self-leveling floors are a self-leveling mixture, due to its rare consistency, it spreads over the entire floor area, thereby more mixture flows into the depressions and depressions, and less into the sagging areas.

To make a self-leveling floor, you need to purchase a special mixture, where it will be written: “for self-leveling floor.” On the packaging of this mixture it will be written in what proportions it is diluted. To dilute the mixture, you will need a container, preferably a plastic bucket, as it will be more convenient to pour the leveling mixture. Let's pour required amount dry mixture, pour the specified amount of water and mix the bulk substance in this container.

Next, when the filling mixture is ready, we gradually pour the substance from the far corner, moving towards the exit. The mixture should spread over the entire area of the room. When the mixture has spread, take a needle roller and use it to get rid of possible air bubbles that may be in the bulk mixture. Roll out very carefully, in different directions several times, this is necessary not only to eliminate air bubbles inside the mixture, but also to distribute the filling mixture evenly. The height of the needles in the roller should be greater than the height of the bulk mixture layer. It is worth noting that if you use this method to level the floor in big room, then the filling must be done by first dividing the room into sectors, but at the same time try to do everything quickly so that all the sectors are connected together.

The advantage of a self-leveling floor is that it dries quickly and within a few hours you will be able to carry out further repair work.

Now for the calculations. If the area of your room is 8 square meters, then for the self-leveling floor you will need at least 6 bags of leveling mixture.

Leveling the floor using a leveler

Now let's look at the second method of leveling the floor - using beacons. When the floor surface is prepared: cleaned and treated with a primer, we take special slats that will serve as beacons. Why “beacons” and what kind of slats are they? Let's start in order.

Since for this leveling method we will use a thick leveling mixture, it will not spread on its own, and therefore we will need to level it ourselves. If you think about it logically, how can you level the room in this case? To do this, so-called beacons are laid along the room, according to the level of which we will level the floor. Both perforated metal corners and any similar smooth metal material can be used as beacons, but of course, preference is best given to perforated corners.

So, to lay the beacons, we retreat a few centimeters from the parallel wall, in meter increments, and lay them across the room. We fix the beacons themselves to the floor using a building mixture: alabaster or cement. With slap movements, using a spatula, we apply a small amount of the mixture in a row, the layer of which depends on the new floor level. Then we place the beacon on top and level it. After making sure that it is laid evenly, we fill the voids between the floor and the lighthouse with this mixture. Then we carry out the same procedure with the remaining beacons. When the beacons are securely fixed, we begin work.

From the far corner, in the opening between the first and second beacons, we pour a special cement mortar so that it is slightly higher than the level of the beacons and, using the rule, move to the sides, towards ourselves, and then level this area away from ourselves, relying on the beacons as a rule. Use a section no more than a meter long for leveling. Then, in the same way, we level the rest of the floor.

This floor will take at least 3 days to dry. As for the amount of mixture used, it is very difficult to name it, since it will depend on the area of the room and the increased floor height.

Leveling the floor with wooden joists

Well, the last option for leveling the floor is using slats. In order to properly level the floor with wooden joists yourself, you will need special anchor bolts. Such a bolt consists of the anchor itself, which is inserted into the concrete floor and tightened with a nut, and a long threaded base onto which a fixing nut is screwed and a washer is placed, then through a pre-made hole we insert wooden logs, put a washer on top of the log on the anchor and secure it with a nut on top.

Thus, we install the logs on anchors, which are installed in increments of 50-60 cm from each other, and then use a level to adjust their evenness. There should be a distance of about 20-30cm between the logs themselves. It is necessary to make special grooves in the upper part of the joists so that the nut does not protrude beyond the surface of the joists.

If necessary, thermal insulation material, such as glass wool, can be placed under the joists. Such a floor will be perfectly insulated and has good sound insulation. On top of the joists, the surface of the new floor itself is made from plywood, or from chipboard sheets.

Frequently asked questions by beginners when leveling the floor:

How to level a concrete floor

If the surface of the concrete floor is flat and you need to perform high-quality leveling of the concrete floor surface, then a self-leveling floor is the best option for solving this problem.

How to level the floor under linoleum and parquet

Made from these materials requires a perfectly flat surface, so it is again recommended to use leveling with a self-leveling floor. If the floor is very uneven, then its leveling can be done using a leveling solution. If for some reason the surface is not level enough, you can make a second layer of self-leveling flooring to achieve a high-quality, level surface.

How to level the floor in the bathroom

If you are puzzling over the question: how to level the floor under the tiles in the bathroom, then there may be 2 ways to do this. The first method is to pre-level the floor surface and lay tiles directly on this surface. The second method: leveling the floor directly when laying the tiles, that is, when you apply a large layer of adhesive mixture to the floor or tile (depending on the laying technology) and level the floor level using the already laid tiles.

Video instructions for leveling the floor:

Advantages cement-sand screed:

Among the main disadvantages it is worth highlighting:

long hardening period;
the need to have the skills to perform such work or involve professionals.

The execution of the screed begins with zero level determination. To do this, you can use a building level, with the help of which a single line is created at a height of about 1.5 m from the floor, from which the distance to the floor level is measured. It is worth focusing on the minimum distance, which will help determine the floor height level, but it is worth considering that minimum thickness ties 2 cm. Possible along the bottom of the wall, also mark the lines of the future floor level, which will help make the screed as even as possible.

Next stage - display of beacons, which allow you to achieve the most even surface. They can be used as T-shaped metal guides, which are attached to the base with adjustable screws. An easier way is to install guides on slides made of thick cement-sand mortar required height. The evenness of the beacons is constantly checked using a building level. The first one is installed at a distance of 20 cm from the wall, the rest are mounted parallel to it in increments of 40-60 cm.

The basis of the self-leveling mixture is cement, but in addition to it, the composition also includes special modifying additives that can increase the plasticity and fluidity of the solution. Some additives make it possible to suppress the appearance of microcracks in the future. Depending on the composition Self-leveling mixtures are divided into:

high strength;
For ;
fast-hardening;
thin-layer.

In addition, there are self-leveling mixtures on sale, intended not only for rough finishing, but also for the finishing, as well as compositions with special properties. There are also compositions for rough leveling, they are intended for surfaces with significant unevenness.

All self-leveling mixtures boast a number of advantages:

simplicity and high speed of working with them;
speed of hardening;
high performance strength, therefore this leveling method is quite suitable for rooms with a high degree of traffic;
resistance to temperature changes.

Disadvantages of this method there is little leveling of the floor - these are rather its features. Large differences in the level of the floor surface cannot be leveled with a self-leveling floor. You need to work with the mixtures very quickly - if you hesitate and allow it to dry out, then it is unlikely that you will be able to achieve a smooth surface.

Working with such mixtures is really simple. They are usually used to level concrete and sandy foundations. Preparing the mixture consists of diluting the purchased powder with the required amount of water. For mixing, it is better to use a construction mixer or a drill with an attachment. The composition is prepared in portions, as its properties are lost within 20 minutes. Naturally, before starting work, you should carefully prepare the original surface: clean it from dust, seal all cracks, and treat it with a primer.

When the mixture is ready, it is immediately poured onto the floor. The principle of its operation is based on the law of gravity, so there is no need to install beacons and level the solution according to them. It is also worth remembering that this solution is self-leveling and not self-spreading, so after pouring it onto the floor you need to level with a wide spatula or a needle roller. It is better to immediately fill the entire floor in the room, but if the area is large, apply the solution in strips, acting very quickly and not allowing the edge of the strip to dry out. In this case, only professionals can achieve a perfectly flat surface.

The hardening speed depends on the room temperature, humidity and layer thickness. On average, after 6-12 hours you can move on the surface, and after 3-4 days – install the finishing coating.

No. 4. Leveling with gypsum fiber sheets (GVL)

Leveling with GVL is called dry screed. This process is much simpler and faster, but the quality of the finished screed is inferior to a monolithic one. A layer of expanded clay is laid under the gypsum plasterboard, which plays. The technology allows the use of other materials that have similar thermal insulation properties.

Begin leveling the GVL with surface cleaning from dust and dirt, after which it spreads waterproofing material, which can be polyethylene film. Its strips are laid with an overlap of about 10-15 cm and overlapping the walls by 10 cm. Along the perimeter of the room, it is better to use an edge strip, which is placed between the plastic film and the expanded clay layer.

Expanded clay must be thoroughly compacted and leveled at the intended level. The first slab is installed in the closest

In most private and apartment buildings, concrete slabs, which do not have a perfectly flat surface, serve as the base floor. Therefore, before laying the finishing coating, they need to be repaired and leveled. How can you tidy up such a floor, and how can you level it?

Why is the alignment procedure necessary?

A smooth floor surface is the key to its successful cladding

By leveling the floor we mean creating a strictly horizontal surface. The fact is that the installation of many modern finishing materials unacceptable in the presence of curvature. Laminate or parquet boards will quickly become unusable if they are laid on a base with a large height difference.

More and more often cabinet furniture without legs is used in interior design. If the floor is “littered”, any curvature will be noticeable when installing the same wardrobe.

When should floors be leveled? There are several such cases:

The floor is made of concrete slabs with a large height difference.
Removed old parquet or hardboard laid previously using bitumen mastics. Small sagging cannot be eliminated, so you will have to screed the floor.
The old wooden base creaks a lot and wobbles noticeably.
The old screed was cracked and unusable.
Before laying ceramic tiles.
Before installing a “warm floor” system.

There is no need to start a complicated process if you need to hide electrical wiring. It can simply be placed in a groove or box.

There are a lot of alignment methods. Let's look at the main ones.

Modern techniques

The choice of floor leveling method depends on the condition of its surface, the amount of work, the repair budget and the type of future floor covering. The amount of time allocated for all this, as well as the need to insulate the surface and its sound insulation, also matters. Some technologies take place in several stages, including rough and finishing leveling.

The most popular methods are:

Cement-sand screed.
Self-leveling floors.
"Dry" screed.
Leveling the floor using joists.
Using self-adjusting plywood.
Glue method.

Preparing the base

Any of the listed technologies requires preliminary preparation of the base. To begin with, it is completely freed from old finishes, paint, debris, flaking materials, oil stains and other defects. If the base is concrete, it is necessary to repair cracks and potholes, dimples and crevices in advance using a solution.

It is advisable to examine the slabs for the presence of “technological” holes. Even at the stage of building a house, many workers do not stand on ceremony and, in order to save time, simply punch holes in the concrete, through which they then lay utilities. The latter lack reliable insulation, so during repairs it is necessary to eliminate the results of careless work of builders.

Note! “Technological” holes must be carefully sealed. This will provide additional heat and sound insulation of the room.

Rotten and damaged parts must be replaced with new ones

If the floors are wooden, examine each floorboard, replace rotten parts, repair damaged areas, check the reliability of the joists and fastening elements, as well as the strength of the entire base.

After all these steps, use a building level to check for height differences. To do this, find the smallest and highest points of the floor and determine the difference in height. This value will let you know how to proceed. When the difference is less than 5 centimeters or more, different technologies are used.

For example, using the adhesive method or using sheet material, a surface with a height difference of 2-3 cm is leveled. Cement-sand and “dry” screed allows you to eliminate a difference of 5-7 centimeters. The installation of logs is used when it is possible to steal 10 centimeters or more from the height of the room.

Let's look at each method in more detail.

Cement-sand screed

To make a cement-sand screed, you must first use a hydraulic level and an upholstery cord to mark its upper edge. And then install beacons under it. They can be used as ceiling aluminum profile, which is simply pressed into piles of cement and sand mortar in a ratio of 1x3.

Beacons are placed in parallel steps with optimal distance between two crossbars 1.5-2 meters. First, the first and last landmarks are placed according to the marks on the walls, then others are placed in relation to them. Curvatures in profiles can be identified and eliminated using stretched nylon threads. A special tape is attached around the perimeter of the room to prevent deformation of the screed during seasonal temperature changes.

Screed alignment

The next step is preparing the solution. To do this, you need to mix one part of cement with three parts of sand in a large container. First, mix the dry ingredients thoroughly and then add them to the water. In this case, it is necessary to achieve homogeneity of the mass. In addition, it should not be too thick or thin.

The prepared solution should be left for 15 minutes and then stirred again before use. It is better to use a construction mixer for these purposes. It is not necessary to buy it, since there are companies on the service market that provide Building tools for rent.

Filling the floor

Before laying the mortar, the floor surface must be primed with two layers of penetrating primer. It will ensure good adhesion of the new screed to the old concrete base.

The solution is placed in a niche between two beacons, leveled with a rule and polished with a trowel. It is better to carry out the pouring work in two hands - one works with the screed, while the other mixes the solution. The continuity of the process will ensure the creation of a uniform, flat surface.

Drying the screed correctly

After laying the screed, it must be covered with plastic film. After 12 hours, the bumps are knocked off the hardened screed with a metal spatula, and the surface is rubbed with a wooden trowel.

The grouting solution is prepared at the rate of 1 part sand to 1 part cement. The sand should be well dried and sifted through a coarse sieve. The screed is moistened with water using a spray bottle and a long strip is placed on it to check the quality of the base and identify defects. Small irregularities are immediately corrected with grout. At this stage, the beacons are also pulled out. And the traces from them are filled with solution.

The screed also needs to be dried in several stages. Sand or wood shavings are poured onto the film covering the new floor and moistened well with water. As the layer of shavings dries, it must be constantly moistened during the first two weeks. Then the film can be removed and the screed can be watered again for 5 days, after which it can be left to dry completely.

Note! In total, the screed takes 28 days to dry.

Self-leveling floors

Universal mixture M-150

You can find it on sale ready-made mixtures for screeds, which, in addition to sand and cement, include polymer additives. They increase the plasticity of the base, its strength, frost resistance and resistance to corrosion processes. Mixtures make the process of preparing the solution easier, but also increase the cost of the work.

Depending on the main component, there are 4 groups of self-leveling floors:

Methyl methacrylate.
Epoxy.
Cement-acrylic.
Polyurethane.

All of them allow you not only to level floors, but also to decorate them without additional finishing coatings. The scope of application of such mixtures is quite large. Self-leveling self-leveling floors are used in rooms with maximum low temperatures, high pedestrian loads and exposure to chemical reagents.

The technology for laying self-leveling floors is similar to the technology for cement-sand screed. The only difference is that you need to go over the surface of the poured composition with a needle roller to get rid of air bubbles.

The self-leveling floor has:

Great appearance.
Long service life.
Moisture resistant.
Fire safety.

But this technology also has disadvantages:

Under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, such a floor quickly turns yellow.
Before application, the surface of the slab must be prepared more thoroughly.
This material is not natural.
It will be very difficult to get rid of the annoying polymer finish.
When laying a self-leveling floor, you need to control the level of surface humidity, which a simple consumer cannot do on his own.

Therefore, this method is not very popular yet.

"Dry" screed

Dry floor leveling option

You can do this method yourself. It involves leveling the floor using expanded clay and sheet material.

The installation technology is simple:

The floor in the room is covered with thick polyethylene so that its edges extend 10-15 cm onto the walls. On gypsum mortar beacons are placed, and expanded clay with a grain size of up to 5 mm is poured into the niche between them. A polyethylene film or vapor barrier membrane is again laid on top of the expanded clay.
Any sheet material is laid on top of it. This can be plywood or fiberboard sheets, but it is better to use Knauf Superfloor - a special prefabricated system that allows you to quickly and easily complete the process. It consists of separate segments. Each element is a gypsum fiber sheet manufactured in a factory. It consists of two small-format bases connected to each other with an offset of 50 millimeters.
It is these indentations that help connect two elements. First, they are glued with glue, and then fastened with self-tapping screws for greater strength. You need to lay such sheets from the threshold, gradually moving towards the farthest corner of the room.

Note! “Dry” screed saves a lot of time. There is no need to wait 28 days to begin installing the topcoat. But she has one significant drawback- She is afraid of moisture. Any flood from neighbors will lead to irreparable consequences.

How can you level the floor if there is a very high difference in heights in the room?

Leveling the floor using joists

Sheets of plywood are stuffed onto exposed joists.

There are simple methods to eliminate significant elevation changes. For example, you can lay the logs on concrete base. The lags are ordinary wooden blocks with a cross section of 40×60 or 40×80 mm.

Elevation differences in this case are compensated by the installation wooden spacers, which are attached to the base of the floor after preliminary waterproofing. They should not be too thin or small, as they will certainly break under the weight of the flooring. Then the floor will begin to sag and the floorboards will creak.

First, the first two logs are set, and then a cord is pulled between them, which serves as a guide for the location of other elements. The step between the lags should not exceed 50 cm. The distance between the jumpers depends on the material from which the rough flooring is made. If it is plywood, then the jumper should be at the junction of two sheets and in the middle of each module.

Note! For the subfloor, it is better to choose moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of 10-12 mm.

At this stage, the floor can be additionally insulated using mineral or basalt wool, as well as any bulk materials. All joists are treated with bitumen mastic on top. If insulation is laid, then the wooden base is additionally covered vapor barrier membrane or ordinary plastic film, and then just stuff the plywood, chipboard sheets or ordinary wooden slats. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws or self-tapping screws.

This leveling is used for soft flooring - parquet, laminate, linoleum or ceramic tiles.

Self-adjusting plywood

If it is impossible to reduce the height of the room, use self-regulating plywood. A honeycomb frame is assembled on the base using plywood logs. Height differences are compensated by wooden pads, which are screwed to the base or glued to it.

First, sheet material is laid out on the floor and its location is marked with chalk, and then a honeycomb frame is built along these lines. On top it is covered with sheets of moisture-resistant plywood in 2 layers.

The second layer should lie on the joints of the first. Before laying the soft finishing material, the joining seams are lightly sanded and then coated with varnish. If laminate or parquet boards are being installed, it is advisable to cover the plywood base of the new floor with a shock-absorbing underlay.

Glue method

The adhesive method is used when there is a concrete base with a height difference of up to 3 centimeters. Squares of plywood are glued directly onto it. But first you need to check the moisture content of the base. A piece of polyethylene is laid out on the floor and pressed down on all sides with wooden blocks. If after 4 days condensation has formed on the inner layer, you will have to waterproof it.

After leveling, proceed to floor covering

Next, the sheets of plywood are cut out and laid out on the floor in a checkerboard pattern - just as they will then be glued to the floor. This operation allows you to adjust required sizes. Usually the sheets are cut into small fragments, which are then assembled into one large puzzle. The laid out plywood is numbered, and its ends after cutting are inspected to identify delaminations.

The base is pre-primed and treated with an adhesive composition, bitumen mastic and gasoline.

For gluing, use undiluted adhesive mixtures, which can be found in a specialized store. They are applied to plywood in a two-millimeter layer and rolled out with a needle roller. The first sheets are laid against the walls, leaving a temperature gap of 10-15 cm. Craftsmen recommend additionally securing the plywood to the base with anchor bolts.

Note! This leveling is perfect for laminate, parquet or boards.

Generalization on the topic

Now you know the most popular floor leveling technologies that you can do yourself. By choosing the most suitable option, you will end up with a horizontal surface suitable for decorating with the latest finishing materials.

Ruslan Vasiliev

Leveling the floor- a mandatory step during repair and finishing works, followed by installation of the floor covering. Why is it mandatory? The fact is that over time, floors lose their original shape - bulges, crevices and cracks form in them.

If you want to update the appearance of the room and lay, for example, laminate or carpet, this initially not so noticeable defect becomes a serious obstacle to the realization of your cherished goal. The only way out of this situation is alignment, which you can do yourself.

Floor leveling mixtures

Leveling mixtures form a screed that has many advantages. First of all, this is:

possibility of installing any floor coverings(linoleum, tiles, parquet boards, etc.);
perfect adhesion to the substrate;
high strength;
environmental friendliness;
low abrasion;
ease of installation;
no shrinkage;
unpretentiousness in subsequent care (no need for daily watering);
gaining strength within a few days.

Classification of mixtures

Leveling mixtures are divided into leveling and self-leveling. The first ones must be leveled manually. High viscosity values make it possible to obtain thick screeds and develop slopes. The second - due to their high fluidity, they create a flat horizontal surface with virtually no active human participation. By the way, they can be called differently: levelers, self-levelers, self-leveling floors, self-leveling solutions - the imagination of ordinary people knows no limits.

There are self-leveling mixtures for initial and finishing application. The difference is in the size of the fractions. Solutions for initial application consist of large particles, which means there is no need to talk about a smooth surface. Finishing mixtures include fine fractions and provide the opportunity to obtain an even horizontal screed.

Conditions required for application

Not everyone knows that when working with leveling mixtures, several important rules must be followed, on which the quality of the coating depends. First of all, you need to close the windows and doors. No air movement should be felt above the floor surface during work and for the next 24 hours.
The base temperature, as well as the room temperature, should vary from +5 to +25 degrees. No more. As for relative humidity, the maximum permissible level is 90%.

Breeding rules

Pour warm water into the prepared container. Not hot - otherwise the mixture will set quickly and achieve a smooth surface. Add the dry mixture in small portions, stir with a drill special nozzle operating at low speeds.
There should be as much water as indicated on the package. Amateur work is fraught and leads to foaming, poor hardening, and delamination of the screed. Breeding should begin only after the final preparation of the base. Please note that the active participation of an assistant is mandatory. While you are applying the solution, your assistant is preparing a new portion.

Floor leveling methods

There are several types of leveling; the choice of one method or another depends on the time allotted for the work, differences in floor level, and the features of the sound insulation device. So, let's look at the most popular alignment options.

cement-sand screed- the easiest way to prepare a subfloor. If the budget is limited, then you should give preference to a polymer-based screed (cement, sand, PVA). The screed is made along the beacons; after it hardens, a thin layer of glue or self-leveling mixture is applied on top;

dry screed- becomes in Lately a more popular method of floor preparation. It is based on a far from new bulk principle. Dry floor screed has many advantages, among which, first of all, it is necessary to highlight the speed of installation, high thermal insulation properties, the possibility of laying cable and film electric heaters and low weight.

The laying technology does not present any difficulties; the only condition is to maintain consistency.

1. Flooring with a vapor and moisture barrier (polyethylene film or glassine). It is necessary to lay it with an overlap (20 cm), at the edges the material rises by about 5-6 cm. To ensure sound insulation, gaps (10 mm) should be left around the perimeter of the walls, which are glued with a special tape.
2. Lay out the bulk component (expanded clay, sand, fine-grained slag). The thickness of the backfill layer is about 4 cm, with significant unevenness - up to 6 cm.

3. Level the backfill. Then we lay chipboard, gypsum fiber board, and waterproof plywood on the compacted surface. The sheets are attached with glue and self-tapping screws.

Self-leveling floors- the optimal solution to the problem of preparing a rough surface. They are durable, easy to use and will be a real salvation for those who decide to level the floor under laminate or linoleum with their own hands. So, the features of the technology.

1. Clean the floor and degrease it with a cleaning agent, remove the baseboards, and cover the cracks with bars.
2. Fill Potholes mortar, level it out.
3. Draw lines along the length of the room in accordance with the length of the rule and screw in screws along these marks in increments of 30 cm.
4. Using a laser level, determine the highest point on the base, add the thickness of the self-leveling floor to it and screw in the screws perpendicular to the marks made. For beacons, place alabaster near each screw.
5. According to the instructions, mix the mixture with water and after testing for homogeneity, feel free to pour the solution onto an area no larger than 2 m2.
6. As a rule, level the mixture along the beacons. Go over the surface with a needle roller.

Leveling a wooden floor

A wooden floor quickly surrenders to the crushing power of time - it bends and loses its original shape. But even in the most difficult case, when the floor is drying out right before your eyes, you can find a way out - the correct leveling method. Let's consider options for eliminating defects in more detail.

1. Looping- a labor-intensive but effective way to level a plank floor. It is advisable if you plan to only varnish, without laying the floor covering. Cycling is carried out manually or mechanically. To be fair, it is worth noting that the manual method is less effective, so it is better to arm yourself with a scraping unit.

we prepare the room - cover the furniture with film, remove curtains, take out unnecessary interior items;
We examine the surface for nails, carpet buttons and other fasteners. If we find any, we either remove or recess the caps below floor level;
put on protective clothing (remember gloves and headphones) and get to work;
We begin to loop from the corner, moving around the room like a snake. Once removed upper layer, cover the holes with putty and take a break - wait for it to completely polymerize;
We process hard-to-reach areas with a manual scraper;
After completing the work, remove dust and sawdust with an industrial vacuum cleaner. All that remains is to wipe the floor with a lint-free cloth soaked in white alcohol and apply varnish.

2. Leveling with self-leveling mixtures becomes necessary if a coating needs to be laid on a warped, old floor.

prepare the surface again (recess the caps, secure the spring boards with self-tapping screws). Sanding the floor. If voids are found, fill them with acrylic-based putty;
We apply a moisture-proof primer that will ensure the necessary adhesion of wood and mortar;
We clean the perimeter walls with insulating material. Don't forget to create expansion joint from expanded polystyrene;
We use the water level to determine the level of the future self-leveling floor. IN doorway install a wooden beam;
fasten to the floor reinforced mesh with an overlap of 6 cm;
Prepare the mixture according to the instructions, let it sit and stir. Pour the solution onto the mesh, remove bubbles with a rubber roller and level the surface (with a rule, a rubber spatula or a mop);
Drying time depends on the composition of the mixture. Information about this can be found on the packaging.

Leveling a wooden floor with a self-leveling mixture increases the level of the floor. This fact should be taken into account when carrying out construction activities.
3. Leveling a wooden floor with plywood guarantees a smooth subfloor. The method is most justified when it is necessary to lay laminate flooring. Plywood is purchased with a thickness of 12 mm, class 4/4 and higher.

We install beacons (screws). Then we begin to lay 30 cm wide logs, covering the voids with plywood blocks. We fasten them with glue or self-tapping screws;

We prepare sheets of plywood - we divide a standard sheet into 4 parts. It is necessary to cut carefully - there should be no delaminations or chips;
We lay the plywood offset to avoid the seams intersecting at one point. We cut the sheets, paying due attention to the shape of the floor in the places of arches and protrusions;
We fasten the plywood with self-tapping screws with a countersunk head and countersink the fastening points.

Ready. If you planned to level the wooden floor under a laminate, then you can start arranging the substrate, if under linoleum, you can start sanding and varnishing.

Leveling a wooden floor: video

Modern floor coverings delight the eye with their design and interesting texture. But for any of them, be it laminate, linoleum or parquet boards, the subfloor must be absolutely flat, without drops or waves. If there are differences in height, cracks or other defects on the concrete screed, then before laying the finished floor it is necessary to repair and level the base. Let's try to figure out how to level a concrete floor quickly, correctly and efficiently.

Surface analysis and floor marking

First of all, it is necessary to carefully analyze the quality of the concrete floor. Using a level, measurements are carried out and irregularities are determined. To do this, use a water level or a laser axis level. The latter device allows you to create the most even horizontal plane.

The laser axis builder will automatically level itself, and in the “horizon” mode it will create an even, strictly horizontal plane

After this, armed with a tape measure or a long ruler, you need to measure the room around the perimeter and determine the minimum distance between the floor and the horizon. This will be the zero point of the new floor. In a panel house, measurements are carried out only along the perimeter, since it is used as a ceiling reinforced concrete panel quite smooth. In a private home, significant differences are possible.

After measuring the floor and determining the zero point, they begin to eliminate existing unevenness.

Alignment methods

The time has come to choose a method for leveling the concrete floor. Technologically, there are several ways to level a concrete floor. Depending on the existing differences and the required height of the build-up, leveling the floor with your own hands can be done in three ways:

cement-sand screed;
dry screed;
self-leveling mixture.

To work you will need:

water and laser levels;
rule longer than 1.5 meters;

Equalizing the mixture using the rule

set of spatulas;
squeegee;
electric drill;
nozzle for stirring the solution;
bucket;
beacons for screeds.

Depending on the chosen installation method, you will need a mixture to prepare the solution or a set of individual components.

Cement-sealed screed

Most often, home craftsmen use cement-sealed screed. To prepare the mixture, cement and sand are taken in a ratio of 1:3. For floor screeding, it is better to use cement grade of at least 400.

Leveling the concrete floor using this method is done in stages. It is important to follow not only the technology, but also the procedure:

Remove the old coating down to the concrete base.
Check the moisture content of the coating. If it is high, then wait until it dries.
Inspect the floor, widen and clear possible cracks and defects.
Thoroughly clean the floor from dirt and dust.
Prime the floor surface to ensure maximum adhesion to the mixture.

Priming the floor surface

Before laying the mixture, beacons are installed

This leveling method allows you to eliminate differences in height up to 5 cm.

Dry screed

This method allows you to level the floors in an apartment in a short time.

Dry screed organization diagram

The procedure is as follows:

A layer of waterproofing is laid on the base. Most often this is ordinary polyethylene film. The film is laid overlapping and with small runs on the wall. Roofing material can be used for the same purposes.
Expanded clay or granular leveling mixture is poured onto the waterproofing layer. The thickness of this layer is 5-7 centimeters. It evens out large differences, and performs additional function thermal insulation. Thanks to the presence of this layer, the floor does not require additional insulation.

A layer of expanded clay levels the floor and serves as additional thermal insulation

Laying sheets of thick plywood

Important! It is necessary to provide compensation gaps between the floor covering and the wall, which will prevent further deformation of the floor when humidity changes.

The seams between the sheets are puttied or filled with sealant.

At each stage of floor leveling, horizontal level measurements are taken using this method. At this point, the installation of the screed is completed, and you can begin laying the finishing coating without much waiting.

This installation method has a number of significant advantages:

there is no need to mix the screed solution;
such a screed has a relatively low price;
the work will require low labor costs, and it is possible to do the work alone;
installation can be carried out at the desired pace and in parts;
additional insulation of the floor is carried out due to a layer of bulk material;
it is possible to quickly and conveniently lay engineering communications;
if necessary, the project can be completed in the shortest possible time.

Self-leveling mixtures

Such mixtures appeared on the building materials market not so long ago, but immediately won the love of consumers. This leveling method makes it quite easy to obtain a completely flat floor surface. This coating is sometimes called liquid linoleum. After applying the self-leveling mixture, the floor can be used as a base for the finishing coat, or as an independent coating that does not require additional finishing.

Pouring the floor with self-leveling mixture

The self-leveling mixture is stirred according to the instructions on the package. After dilution, a solution with the consistency of liquid sour cream is obtained, which, when applied, spreads and forms a smooth surface without unevenness.

Please note! Differences in the floor on which the self-leveling mixture is used should not be more than 2 cm. Otherwise, financial costs increase sharply and the drying time of the surface increases.

Stages of laying self-leveling floors:

Repairing existing cracks and cleaning chips.
Cleaning the base from dust and dirt.
Priming concrete for adhesion of the base with liquid linoleum;
Preparation of a solution that is mixed depending on the type of self-leveling floor. For polymer floors, carefully mix the components of the composition according to the manufacturer's instructions. If a dry mixture based on cement and sand is used, it is diluted with clean water.

A portion of the solution is mixed using an attachment for an electric drill.

When using this leveling method, it is necessary to fill the entire floor surface in the room at once.

The solution is mixed in a handy container (basin or bucket) with a construction mixer or a special attachment attached to a drill. Kneading is done at low speed. The mixture should be homogeneous, without compactions or lumps.

Please note! All self-leveling mortars, regardless of the type of mixture used, harden very quickly, so you should not prepare a large portion of the mortar. There should be as much solution as you can fill in a short period of time at a time. The flow time of the mixture ranges from 20 to 60 minutes, depending on the brand of the solution.

The mixture begins to be poured from the wall opposite to the entrance. To speed up the spreading process of the solution, use a squeegee. Possible bubbles and excess air are removed from the solution with a special needle roller. When performing work, monitor the air temperature in the room. It should be at least 5 degrees Celsius. The drying time of the self-leveling mixture is about an hour, but it is better to wait for the surface to completely harden for 2-3 days. Until the mixture has completely dried over its entire thickness, proceed to finishing works it is forbidden. Small bumps that may arise are sanded with sandpaper or a stone.

Optimally smooth concrete floor

Leveling the floor with your own hands is quite a feasible task for home handyman. You can, of course, entrust this work to professional builders, but this will significantly increase the cost of the floor. To avoid unnecessary costs, we advise you to study our recommendations and perform this procedure yourself. You can watch more interesting and useful tips in the video below.

Video: filling the floor with your own hands

How to level the floor yourself: stages of work

Agree, it is difficult to imagine a beautiful and cozy home without a flat floor, because this is the basis of all foundations. When moving into a new house or apartment, every owner strives to first of all deal with the arrangement of the floor. And modern Construction Materials and the latest technologies make it possible to make the floor beautiful and even with your own hands, even for a person who does not have sufficient experience.

In the vast majority of cases, building slabs are used as the base of the floor covering, often having a far from even surface, which inevitably entails differences in floor level. Of course, you cannot install a new coating on such a surface. The floor must be leveled, in other words, a cement screed is required.

It should be noted that leveling the floor yourself with a concrete screed is a rather long and very dirty process, but even a beginner can do it.

Surface preparation

The video describes how to take measurements to level the floor in all rooms of the apartment to the same level.

Before starting work, the surface to be leveled must be carefully prepared - cleaned of dust, paint, loose parts of concrete, and oil stains. All cracks in the base are sealed, as they lead to material leakage.

Professional builders, in the process of laying electrical wiring in the cavities of slabs to illuminate the center of the room, often do not drill one side of the slab from the ceiling side, but make a “high-tech hole” using a sledgehammer and a crowbar, punching through the slab to its entire depth from a higher floor. This, of course, will save the builders some time, but will give you decibels of noise and “odors” from the apartment below.

If you are a victim of “high domestic construction technologies,” then carefully and thoroughly fill in all the holes, otherwise you will have to get to know your neighbors later under different circumstances.

Marking the level of concrete screed

When the surface is well cleaned, you can begin to mark the level of the future coating. For this purpose, a construction hydraulic level is used, made up of a pair of flasks with marks connected to each other by a long hose. The operation of this instrument is based on the principle of connected vessels - the liquid in vertically located flasks will be located at the same level.

The marking should be carried out by two people: one will install the first flask in the corner of the room, marking the initial strip on the wall, and the other should move with the second flask, making marks along the entire perimeter of the room at the same level. Next, by taking measurements from the floor to the marks, the level of the future floor is determined directly.

Primer for concrete screed

The primer makes it possible to increase the adhesion (adhesion) of the screed to your surface, and in addition, it helps waterproof the base. And this operation cannot be neglected, since savings can lead to the floor subsequently cracking.

If you are leveling floors in the kitchen or bathroom, then use specialized waterproofing primers. Choose a primer marked “for concrete”. For the initial treatment of bases, primer compositions are usually called “primer primers”.

Dry building mixtures for concrete screeds

It is better to make a cement screed for leveling floors using dry construction mixtures. The binding components in them are non-shrinkable types of cement. Fine-grained sand is used as filling material. After mixing with water, this composition forms an emulsion that spreads well over the surface and fills all unevenness well.

When compared with conventional cement-sand mixtures, dry mixtures have a number of advantages. First of all, we are talking about the short drying time of the coating - you can walk on the floor within a day. And secondly, the high strength of the coating, which is ensured by the use of small filler materials.

mixtures for primary leveling. Allows you to create the main layer of coatings. The surface ends up being uneven, since such mixtures use filler materials of a large fraction;
finishing mixtures of the second type correct the shortcomings of the first. They contain small fractions of fillers, and they spread very well over the surface, resulting in a smooth and even coating. Apply finishing mixture a thin layer, the thickness of which should be only a few millimeters.

Installation of beacons for concrete screed

After the priming has been carried out, it is necessary to install beacon profiles on the floor surface - they will be a kind of level for setting the thickness of the screed being performed. In cross-section, such profiles resemble the letter “T”.

The slats need to be mounted on the floor parallel to each other - so that the top is located at the same level as the marks on the wall. This can be done, for example, using a stretched cord or a regular building level.

Highly professional specialists do not install these profiles, since they know how to create horizontal surfaces without them.

But if you are not confident in your abilities, it is better to install them, as slats really improve the quality of work.

Laying concrete screed

Upon completion of the installation of the beacons, we begin to form the actual coating. But first, to do this, you need to find out what the maximum difference in floor level and the maximum permissible layer of leveler specified in the manufacturer’s recommendations are. If floor differences exceed the permissible level, the emulsion should be applied in several layers.

To prepare the leveler, you will need a large bucket. In it, the emulsion is mixed with water using an electric drill equipped with a special attachment (this is a construction mixer).

It is extremely important to observe all the ratios recommended by the manufacturer, since an excess amount of water can lead to delamination of the material and a decrease in its mechanical strength. The emulsion is poured onto the base in such a way that the space up to the beacons is filled.

Then the mixture is leveled with a regular spatula or a rule along the beacons. Air bubbles that form in the material are eliminated using a needle roller.

Final alignment

If you need an exceptionally flat and smooth surface, then the original floor screed must be covered with the so-called finishing leveler. Such solutions are diluted to a very liquid state - this will give the material the opportunity to spread well over the surface, it will be able to fill even the smallest depressions and crevices. The cooking process is the same as in the description above. The material is poured onto the surface, after which it is leveled to a layer of several millimeters.

it is possible to lay any covering on the floor: laminate, carpet, ceramic tiles, linoleum;
you can make heated floors yourself;
a thin layer of leveler slightly changes the height to the ceiling;
high coating strength.

accuracy of all measurements, spatial thinking and endurance are required;
a lot of dust and dirt is formed;
a significant period of complete hardening - for laying ceramic tiles on the floor, for example, you will have to wait at least a month

Leveling the floor yourself is quite a painstaking and labor-intensive process, which requires accuracy and great patience. Therefore, it is better to immediately assess your strengths, and if you are not sure that you will be able to do everything correctly and efficiently, it is better to contact specialists - they will carry out all the work at the highest level. As for the issue of cost, it will be determined by the complexity of the process.

Basic methods of floor leveling

When carrying out major renovations in an apartment or private house, you most often need to level the floor yourself. This is especially true for old housing purchased on the secondary market. In this case, the ceiling may be blocked, and its level may be different rooms will be different. Before laying laminate, linoleum or parquet and other finishing materials, you need to prepare the surface. A huge number of products and methods are used to level the floor, each of which has advantages and disadvantages.

Ties

This method combines several technologies. Wet screed is traditional; it has been used for decades. Relatively new methods of floor leveling using dry and semi-dry mixtures are considered not so common.

Wet screed

In this case, two types of solutions are used: concrete and cement-sand mixture. Both are made on the basis of cement, the filler is sand, and the solvent is water, but crushed stone is additionally introduced into the concrete. This material is inexpensive, which reduces the cost of the entire solution. But it is not suitable for leveling floors in residential areas, where high demands are placed on the surface.

Then use a cement-sand mixture. It costs a little more, but after drying it gives an even coating.

Wet floor screed If speak about positive aspects wet screeds

, then especially stand out:
A simple technology for manufacturing and pouring the solution, which does not require special tools or qualified specialists.
The result is a durable coating that can last up to 50 years. According to technology, rough screed
can be made up to 10 cm thick, this is enough to level almost any surface. If it happens that the blockage is larger, then you can lay two layers of screed.

Relatively low cost of materials and work. It is also important to note that, unlike some other building materials, cement and sand can be purchased in almost any region, this will save on delivery costs.

Wet screed does not require much experience or professional equipment; it is easy to do it yourself

There are also disadvantages:
Long period of drying and strength gain. You can begin further finishing work only after 28 days. The coating must be protected from heat and drafts, and also regularly moistened in the first week after pouring.
The surface may crack due to shrinkage. This is partially mitigated by laying damper tape before pouring the floor, but there is still a risk.
If the screed layer is more than 5 cm, it must be reinforced with special meshes, metal rods, and so on. This is also reflected in the cost of work. Before starting you need to lay waterproofing layer
so that moisture from the solution does not leak to the neighbors below.

The work is quite hard and dirty. A huge amount of material needs to be transferred and mixed.

Semi-dry screed installed beacons, then compacted and sanded with special machines.

Semi-dry screed requires special equipment, but is characterized by high strength and durability

Advantages of this method:

After compaction and grinding, there is virtually no shrinkage of the coating, so the risk of cracks is minimized.
After drying and gaining strength, a stronger surface is obtained than when pouring using the wet method.
The ability to lay large layers of material without reinforcement, which allows you to level floors with almost any blockage.
No need to install reinforcing elements.
28 days after completion of the work, any topcoat can be laid.

High price. All processes are carried out with the participation of specialized equipment, the purchase or rental of which costs a significant amount. In addition, materials for leveling floors in this way are relatively expensive. It is also important to consider the need to hire specialists to service the equipment.
Organization of special conditions. Semi-dry formulations are prepared outside and served indoors through special sleeves. In cold weather they constantly freeze, which reduces the feeding speed. Therefore, it may be necessary to erect a temporary structure with mobile heating equipment.
Strengthening time. According to the technology, the period of complete drying and polymerization is 28 days. That is, the same as in the case of the wet method.

Dry screed

Leveling materials of this type were first developed by the German company Knauf; now many of them are produced brands. The essence of the method is to fill the floor slab with a dry composition: expanded clay, vermiculite, perlite and others. This layer is covered with boards, plywood, gypsum, plasterboard or gypsum fiber boards. Since hollow materials are used for backfill, additional thermal insulation is not required.

Dry screeds have the following advantages:

Immediately after leveling the floors in the apartment, you can begin further finishing activities. This distinguishes dry screeds from other types.
The work happens quickly and does not require special equipment, so installation can be done independently.
The backfill layer demonstrates high sound insulation performance.

Dry screed has high sound and heat insulation properties and allows repair work to be carried out in a short period of time

The main disadvantage is low moisture resistance, because of this it is necessary to additionally insulate the bulk layer with a membrane.

In addition, the backfill and slabs for covering it will cost a little more than the sand-cement composition.

Leveling mixtures These materials replaced standard cement or gypsum based mortars. They are manufactured in factories using strict technologies, so they differ high quality

. The modern market offers two main types of self-leveling solutions.

Regular

A budget option for the material, it is made on the basis of lime, cement or gypsum with various fillers. Manufacturers supply a variety of mixtures: the simplest and cheapest are used only for leveling floor coverings, the more expensive ones contain insulating materials. The composition necessarily contains plasticizers and components that protect against moisture and frost. They also make the coating more durable and abrasion resistant.

Industrial mixtures for leveling floors are of higher quality compared to compositions made independently

Among the positive qualities it is necessary to highlight:
Short drying time. In most cases, one week is enough to begin further installation.
No need for finishing. Using these materials, you can complete the final leveling of the floor, while the quality of the surface will be high.

Versatility. Such coatings are suitable for premises of any purpose.

There are no significant shortcomings. You can note the cost, which is slightly higher than the prices for standard cement-sand mixtures. In addition, the work is quite dirty.

Self-leveling composition

This material is also called self-leveling. In this case, the solution just needs to be applied in small portions to the surface so that they touch. Over the course of some time it will spread over the floor slab. The result is a perfectly smooth coating that does not require further processing. It should be noted that this method is only suitable for relatively flat substrates.

The maximum permissible layer of material is 3.5 cm; if there is a large blockage, it will simply not be possible to level the floors. The minimum layer is 3 mm, so self-leveling mixtures are often used for finishing coatings.

Self-leveling screed is used at the last stage of floor installation and usually does not require further finishing.
Easy to fill.
Short drying time of the solution.

The coating also has all the positive properties concrete screeds, such as strength and wear resistance. Of the shortcomings, only two can be noted: high cost and the inability to eliminate serious defects.

Wood materials

The described methods for leveling the floor involve creating a cold stone covering. But there is another option - using wood. In recent decades, wood and products made from it have experienced another wave of popularity.

Plywood

This material is probably familiar to everyone. It is inexpensive, and you can buy it at almost any hardware or construction store.

Leveling the floor with plywood

Glue installation. In this case, the base is carefully prepared, tile adhesive is applied to it, and then a sheet of plywood is pressed to the floor. Sometimes dowels and screws are used to increase the reliability of contact.
Installation on logs. On rough coating install logs at a certain interval, which depends on the thickness of the plywood (the thinner it is, the smaller the step). For fastening, use ordinary wood screws.
Using anchor bolts. It's comparative new technology, which involves the use of a certain type of plywood. First, sheets of plywood with holes are laid out on the floor, and the locations of future fastenings are marked on the surface. The slabs are removed, holes are drilled in the floor with a drill and anchors are installed in them, the height of which is set according to laser level. After adjustment, the plywood is put in place and tightened with nuts. The protruding metal products are cut off with a grinder, and then a second layer of plywood is placed on the glue.

Wear resistance and strength.
Environmentally friendly.
Easy to install and handle.
Low cost of materials and labor.

Exposure to moisture.
Flammability.
Limited sizes.
Need for further finishing.

Boards

This is a more expensive flooring option. There are a huge number of models that differ in size and availability lock connections. The boards are mounted either on logs or on a prepared base. Compared to plywood, they are more expensive and more difficult to work with. In addition, after installation, the boards need to be sanded.

Plank floor installation

Nevertheless, a floor made of this material will last much longer and it looks more presentable. Usually the boards are impregnated with special primers, and at the end installation work They are treated with varnish or wax, so the products are not susceptible to water, mold and insects.

Tile

Leveling the floor with tile adhesive and then installing tiles is used quite rarely. You can do without tiles, but then the surface will be subject to abrasion and the formation of a large amount of dust. This method is not suitable if the floor is heavily blocked; ideally, it is better to level the floor with tiles only in case of minor defects.

The essence of the method is that it first beats off zero level, and then, taking it into account, the tiles are laid, the height of which is adjusted by the amount of glue and pressure. The leveled floor can be used within a day.

Some flooring methods are suitable for DIY use, others are only available experienced craftsmen. Before choosing materials for leveling the floor, it is recommended to consult a specialist or take a competent person with you to the store.

Do-it-yourself floor leveling

Any construction, repair or restoration work is unthinkable without leveling the base of the floor. The service life and quality of further use of expensive finishing materials such as laminate, parquet, carpet or ceramic tiles depend on how reliably and efficiently the surface preparation is done. Floor leveling work is carried out in accordance with certain technologies using high-quality certified materials. Do-it-yourself floor leveling can be done using any of these technologies. Let's take a closer look at them.

Preparatory work

There are several effective ways to level the subfloor. First of all, a traditional screed comes to mind, which is made from ordinary cement and sand or a self-leveling mixture. The base can also be constructed using dry methods, including using ready-made prefabricated elements made from moisture-resistant gypsum fiber sheets or individual gypsum fiber sheets. This can be done with pre-prepared boards or moisture-resistant plywood.

If the height difference reaches 5 - 7 cm, then most often a traditional screed or wooden logs using plywood or chipboards are used. If the slope is no more than 3 cm, the situation can be resolved by pouring a self-leveling mixture.

Before choosing a leveling technology and purchasing materials, it is necessary to take all measurements of the actual dimensions of the room. In addition, it is necessary to identify all obvious shortcomings and problems with the quality of the foundation. Using special tools, you need to beat the floor level. A regular liquid level or laser devices are suitable for this purpose.

Carrying out rough leveling using a concrete screed

This method is the cheapest and most proven. It is available for independent implementation by any person with at least initial knowledge in the field of construction and the slightest experience in carrying out repair work.

First of all, you need to prepare the base. If you find large enough bumps and bulges on it, then they must be chipped off and leveled. Concrete mortar is poured into the recesses and carefully leveled. If the differences are higher than 6 cm, and the slope is also large, then it is first necessary to install guide beacons according to the level. To make the structure rigid, the beacons are attached to the floor with a special alabaster mortar at intervals of 50 to 80 cm. During the installation of the beacons, the correctness of the work is checked with a building level.

Before pouring the screed, the entire surface is very well cleaned of dirt and dust, after which a primer layer is applied to obtain better adhesion. The consistency of the screed is selected in accordance with the instructions given by its manufacturer and it depends on the thickness of the layer. To prepare the solution, only certified cement, very well sifted sand, preferably river and warm water are used. You can add special reinforcing fiber and plasticizing substances inside the screed, which is especially recommended if there are significant differences in floor height. After the screed has set, building regulations this is 28 days, it is necessary to remove the beacons from it, and fill the furrows from them with a solution. The surface must be rubbed and treated with a primer, which must penetrate deep enough into the concrete to increase strength.

Leveling the floor using a self-leveling mixture

To use this method of leveling the floor, it is necessary that the base complies with SNiP standards and has a humidity of approximately 4%. As in the previous case, preparatory work must begin with high-quality cleaning of the entire surface from dust and dirt, bitumen and paint coating residues, as well as glue. Unstable surfaces and laitance must be removed.

Potholes and defects are cleaned and vacuumed. They are treated with a primer, after which they are filled with the repair compound CN 83. This must be done about a day before applying the self-leveling mixture. Primer treatment of the entire subfloor is required. To prepare the mixture, you need to take exactly the amount of water specified by the manufacturer with a temperature of no more than 20 degrees. Then the mixture is gradually added to the container with water, stirring it constantly until a homogeneous mass is achieved. It is best to stir this solution with a mixer or drill with a special attachment. Then you need to maintain a five-minute technological pause, during which the final maturation of the mixture occurs. After this, the finished solution is mixed again. It will need to be used no more than 40 minutes from the date of manufacture. You should not pour more water than indicated in the instructions, as this leads to delamination and a decrease in the strength of the coating.

If the floor is leveled in a thin layer, no more than 1–2 cm, then the mixture is simply poured onto the base and distributed evenly over the entire surface. The level is controlled using point beacons. Using a needle roller, roll the mixture to remove air bubbles from it. All work must be carried out at air temperatures from 5 to 30 degrees with humidity not exceeding 80%. After the leveling layer is ready, it must be protected from too rapid drying, drafts, heating devices and exposure to sunlight.

Leveling the floor with plywood

The use of sheet materials such as OSB, fiberboard or plywood involves two technologies. In the first case, the leveling surface is arranged according to wooden joists. This is justified when there are significant level differences. The second technology is direct leveling along the base itself. This technology is applicable only if the floor slope does not exceed 2 cm, or when finishing Laminate or parquet will be used.

A well-known traditional leveling method is double flooring. As the first layer, wooden blocks are installed, which are selected in accordance with the existing actual height difference. The bars are attached to the base using special tongues. When the bars are laid and form a wooden frame, then sheets of material are placed on them, fixed with special screws. During the entire installation of such a structure, it is necessary to systematically use a level to avoid the formation of a slope of the entire structure. This leveling method has the advantage that an additional layer of sound and heat insulation can be installed inside the frame.

In addition to sheet materials, wooden boards are now widely used. It can be grooved or special floor. Previously, this technology was used in construction wooden houses. Today it is also in demand when carrying out restoration and repair work in modern houses and city apartments.

If the height differences are insignificant, then moisture-resistant plywood or fiberboard can be used to level the floor. The sheets are installed directly on the base. The floor materials are fixed with special dowels. Most often, this technology is used as a preliminary preparation for laying laminate, parquet boards or type-setting parquet.

Leveling the floor with a dry screed

This unique technology Today it is increasingly being used in the process of repair and restoration work. It got its name “dry screed” due to the complete absence of water processes during the entire installation. The screed is sold ready-made, made from prefabricated elements gypsum fiber sheets and can be perfectly combined with any finishing coatings and underfloor heating systems.

If there is a difference in the floor of more than 30 mm, you can use expanded clay sand to level it. It is best to take the smallest fraction from 6 mm. This substrate significantly increases sound insulation and thermal insulation properties. Work on installing a dry screed is carried out in the following order:

First, spread over the entire surface with a 10 cm overlap on the walls. vapor barrier film. You need to take polyethylene film with a very dense structure. To make sound insulation even better, it is necessary to glue an edge tape around the perimeter of the room. It should be noted that if the base is wooden boards, then instead of film you need to use bitumen paper or any other paper impregnated with drying oil.

Then beacons are placed, which can be used as a U-shaped profile. Expanded clay sand must be scattered and leveled over these beacons. After this, GVL is laid, and if the room is damp, then this material must be moisture resistant. All sheets are laid out one after another in two layers, shifting one sheet relative to the other, like brickwork. All sheets are glued together using dispersion glue and secured with self-tapping screws. All these measures allow us to achieve maximum rigidity and strength of the coating.

There is nothing difficult about leveling the floor with your own hands. The main thing here is to choose the most suitable method, based on your own knowledge and skills. To choose a specific technology, you need to measure the actual level of floor difference, determine the purpose of the room, as well as its operating conditions. Of no small importance in choosing a method is the type of finishing coating and the speed of the repair work itself. In the process of creating a leveling layer, you must always adhere to the rules and regulations that are prescribed in construction regulations, as well as safety precautions.

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