VVG installation Outdoor cable: installation features. Technical characteristics of VVG cable
Structure VVG cable
The VVG cable consists of two, three or four cores, the same thing happens with the presence of a grounding and neutral conductor. For ease of connection, the VVG cable cores are painted various colors. You should know that BLUE or CYAN color means that the core is zero, and YELLOW-GREEN core means grounding. Please take this into account when laying out the wiring!
Specifications VVG cable
- Type of climatic modification of cables UHL and T, placement categories 1 and 5 according to GOST 15150-69
- Operating temperature range: from -50°С to +50°С
- Relative humidity air at temperatures up to +35°C: up to 98%
- Laying and installation of cables without preheating is carried out at a temperature not lower than: -15°C
The minimum bending radius when laying single-core cables of the VVG brand is 10 outer diameters, single-core cables of the VVGng brand are 15 outer diameters, multi-core cables are 7.5 outer diameters.
Rated frequency of the VVG power cable: 50 Hz Test alternating voltage with a frequency of 50 Hz:
- for voltage 0.66 kV - 3 kV
- for voltage 1 kV - 3.5 kV
Long-term permissible heating temperature of cable cores during operation: +70°C Construction length of cables for sections of main cores:
VVG - power cable with copper conductors in plastic insulation and sheath meets the requirements of GOST 31996-2012 and GOST 31565-2012.
Description of the VVG cable
The VVG cable is the first generation of power cables in PVC insulation and sheath, it was developed for permanent installation in Electricity of the net with alternating voltage up to 1000 Volts and frequency up to 50 Hertz. The VVG cable gained universal popularity due to its low cost and optimal characteristics, it was not as fire hazardous as a cable with impregnated paper insulation and was more durable, unlike cables with rubber insulation, it was resistant to humidity, unlike cables with CB insulation, but the progress is not worth it in place and was replaced by the VVGng cable, which, being an analogue of the VVG, showed more outstanding characteristics in terms of fire safety.
Currently the power cable VVG is an outdated position due to its fire hazard; it is being replaced everywhere by VVGng.
Characteristics of VVG cable
The VVG cable is used at temperatures from -50 to +50 degrees Celsius.
The optimal humidity during operation of VVG cables is up to 98%; at higher humidity, it is recommended to use a tropical cable version that is resistant to mold.
Installation of VVG cables is carried out at a temperature not lower than -15 degrees, at more low temperatures Pre-heating of the cable is required to prevent damage to the frozen sheath.
The VVG cable does not spread fire when installed alone; when installed in groups, additional fire safety measures are required.
Acceptable working temperature heating of VVG cable cores 70 degrees.
Maximum core heating temperature at short circuit, no more than 160 degrees, with more high temperature there is a risk of insulation melting.
The maximum permissible heating temperature of the VVG cable cores under the condition of non-ignition: 350 degrees.
The service life of the VVG cable is at least 30 years from the date of manufacture.
Decoding of VVG markings
B - PVC insulation.
B - PVC sheath.
G - has no armor.
VVG cable design
1) Core - copper of the first or second class according to GOST 22483.
2) Insulation - made of polyvinyl chloride plastic.
3) The shell is made of polyvinyl chloride plastic.
Application of VVG cable
VVG copper power cable is used for stationary installation in electrical networks with voltages up to 1000 Volts and a frequency of 50 Hertz. The VVG cable is installed electrical wiring without limiting the level difference along the route, when laying on outdoors additional protection against direct contact is required sun rays(HDPE pipe, cable tray, etc.), since ultraviolet radiation significantly reduces the service life of the VVG cable, when laying in the ground, additional measures of protection against mechanical damage to the sheath are required. It is prohibited to lay VVG in buildings and structures due to new fire safety requirements.
VVG cable specifications which allows it to be laid both outdoors and in wet (up to 98 percent humidity) and dry type rooms, has become a popular solution today. The application of this type of cable is quite wide.
Cable laying methods
Open method of laying VVG cable. According to the technical characteristics of this cable, its open laying is allowed on structures and surfaces made of low-flammability or non-combustible materials such as concrete, plastered surface, brick, plaster, etc.
Open laying of the VVG cable is not excluded on suspended structures, for example, a cable, etc. Moreover, such structures must ensure reliable installation. In the case of laying cables along suspended structures, it is necessary to exclude the possibility of mechanical action on the cable (stretching or sagging).
It is necessary to install additional protection if there is a risk of damage to the cable product mechanically. When laying cables in an open manner over wooden combustible surfaces, additional protection must be used. Installation in this case should be carried out using a pipe, metal hose, corrugated hose, cable duct and other types of protection.
Hidden laying method cable VVG. This method of laying cables is the most common in residential areas. The cable is laid in voids, under plaster, in grooves, etc.
Mechanical damage in this installation method is unlikely, so additional protection is not required. The exception is wall voids in wooden houses.
Here it is possible to install hidden cables in pipes or other non-combustible materials. There are regulatory documents for hidden electrical wiring, which determine the correct installation of the VVGng cable in a hidden way.
Laying VVG cable in the ground. As a rule, it is not allowed to lay this brand of cable underground without special means protection. This is explained by the fact that it does not have natural protection that will protect the cable from mechanical stress.
Realize VVG cable installation underground it is necessary in sealed boxes along cable structures and overpasses. Additional protection such as tunnels, pipes, etc. can be applied.
VVG cable options
Today in the store you will find a large assortment wires and cables. The buyer has the opportunity buy cable and wire products, having different designs of cores and different insulating coatings.
The characteristics of a particular product can be determined by special markings, which, as a rule, all cables and conductors have. Below we provide a breakdown of the most common brands of cable and wire products.
Let's look at how the varieties differ from basic version. Novice electricians often do not understand how the VVGng cable differs from traditional version VVG, as well as from VVGng-LS:
1) - VVG has conventional PVC insulation and does not have any self-extinguishing or fire-retardant properties;
2) - VVGng the insulating layer of this cable contains halogen chemical elements, which interfere with the combustion process;
3) - VVGng-ls, when the sheath of the current-carrying conductors of this cable ignites, virtually no gas or smoke is released due to the fact that halogen-free polyvinyl chloride is used to create this sheath.
Cable VVG 2*1.5, VVG 2*10, VVG 2*16, VVG 2*2.5, VVG 2*4, VVG 2*6, VVG 3*1.5, VVG 3*10, VVG 3*16, VVG 3*2 ,5, VVG 3*4, VVG 3*6, VVG 4*1.5, VVG 4*10, VVG 4*120, VVG 4*150, VVG 4*16, VVG 4*185, VVG 4*2, 5, VVG 4*240, VVG 4*25, VVG 4*35, VVG 4*4, VVG 4*50, VVG 4*6, VVG 4*70, VVG 4*95, VVG 5*1.5, VVG 5*10, VVG 5*120, VVG 5*150, VVG 5*16, VVG 5*185, VVG 5*2.5, VVG 5*25, VVG 5*35, VVG 5*4, VVG 5*50 , VVG 5*6, VVG 5*70 VVG 5*95 is designed for distribution and transmission of electricity to the same voltage class. But there are some differences. The VVGng-ls cable has technical characteristics that allow it to be used in places where there is a particularly high risk of fire. Therefore, in the labeling we see the corresponding designations (Low Smoke).
4) - VVGng-frls is a similar model, but in addition to the above, it is also fire resistant (two letters in the marking indicate this - Fire Resistance Low Smoke). When this type of cable catches fire, the emission of smoke and gas is reduced. When laying in groups, combustion does not spread.
During production fire resistant cable VVGng-frls uses halogen-free materials, which distinguishes this product from other brands. Halogen-free plastic provides high level insulation and emits a normal amount of smoke. Fire safety is the main feature of this type of cable.
What does VVG mean spelling?
In instructions for electrical installation work, the non-flammable cable VVGng can be seen most often. In terms of price/quality ratio it is best option. This conductor is indeed quite versatile, since it can be used in flammable buildings and in structures with high humidity. Below are the technical characteristics of this product, as well as its purpose, disadvantages and advantages.
What can the marking say? First, let's look at what conductor markings there are. Knowing the meaning of each letter in the marking, you can easily determine what properties the cable has.
Let us list the main characteristics by which conductors can be divided.
1. Material used to make the conductor:
- - letter A, if it is aluminum;
- - without designation if it is copper.
2. Material from which the insulation of current-carrying conductors is made:
- - letter P - polymer insulation;
- - letters Pv - polyethylene;
- - letter B - polyvinyl chloride.
3. Cable armor:
- - letter G - no armor, bare cable;
- - armored (B).
4. Shell, outer insulation:
- - letter B - polyvinyl chloride;
- - letters Shv - has a protective hose;
- - letters Шп - has a protective hose made of polyethylene;
- - letter P - polymer outer shell.
5. On fire safety:
- - if there is no designation, then when laid alone, the cable does not spread fire;
- - if the designation is ng, then when laid in groups the cable does not spread fire;
- - if the designation is ng-ls, smoke and gas emissions are reduced, when laid in groups the cable does not spread fire;
- - if the designation is ng-hf, when laid in groups, the cable does not propagate combustion, and during smoldering and combustion no corrosive gaseous substances are released;
- - if the designation is ng-frls, when laid in groups, it does not propagate combustion, the emission of gas and smoke is reduced;
- - if the designation is ng-frhf, when laid in groups, the cable does not propagate combustion, and during smoldering and combustion no corrosive gaseous substances are released.
Based on the above, we can do the following: decrypt VVGng abbreviation: insulation of current-carrying conductors is made of polyvinyl chloride (B), insulation of the outer sheath is also made of polyvinyl chloride (B), special protective layer, no armor (D).
In the language of VVG electric motorists, the decoding sounds something like this: V - vinyl, V - vinyl, G - bare. In addition, the letters ng mean that when installed in groups, this cable is flame retardant. This is a very important parameter if you need to lay the cable in places with a fairly high probability of fire. Safety comes first. Since the described marking does not contain the letter A, the cable consists of copper conductors.
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Cable type VVGng is the product most often used for installing electrical networks indoors. Its advantage over other types of cables lies in its flexibility and excellent electrical conductivity, due to the use of electrical copper as a material for conductive wires. And also the increased safety of insulation from, which practically does not support combustion.
Number of conductive insulated cores in different modifications ranges from 2 to 5, and according to the type of arrangement of conductors inside the outer shell and, accordingly, its appearance, there is a distinction between round cable VVgng and flat cable (VVGng-P). Current-carrying cable cores with a specific cross-section of more than 16 mm2 are made multi-core. In cables with less cross section Single-core conductors are more often used.
Main characteristics of the VVG-ng cable
- Material from which the conductors are made: electrical copper.
- Permissible voltage and frequency of the electrical network: 660V, 50 Hz.
- Permitted operating temperature range: not standardized in the Russian Federation.
- The maximum permissible temperature of the conductor is +70°C.
- Work with VVGng cable is permitted at temperatures below -10°C.
- The permissible bending loop diameter for a single-core cable is at least 10Dn, and for a multi-core cable - 7.5Dn (Dn - outside diameter cable).
- The service life of the VVGng cable is more than 30 years.
Methods for laying VVGng cables
1. External installation. Wiring open type allowed on brick, concrete, plastered and other types of hard surfaces that are resistant to fire.
If it is necessary to travel by air, you can secure the VVGng cable using a cable or other suspended structures, if they protect the cable from excessive sagging and stretching.
When laying VVGng cable along wooden surfaces You should use a protective metal hose, cable ducts, corrugated hoses and other insulating materials intended for this purpose.
2. Use of cable-supporting structures. This method is mainly used when installing wiring and power supply systems in production workshops.
The VVGng cable is laid inside plastic or metal protective boxes, pipes made of various non-combustible materials. Moreover, it is allowed to lay not one, but several cables inside these structures.
According to PUE requirements the number of cables laid in a box or pipe is calculated using a special method, since it is necessary not to deteriorate temperature regime and other operational characteristics that ensure safety.
3. Hidden wiring. Almost all electrical networks in apartments and private houses are installed in specially made grooves, cavities or voids in the plaster on the surface of the walls.
In the premises of multi-apartment residential buildings, as a rule, there is a whole network of such channels. However, if desired, it can be “supplemented” - grooved required quantity cavities using special tools.
The advantages of networks laid in this way include particular reliability and durability, since the possibility of mechanical damage to the cable in closed channels is minimized.
4. Underground installation. Lay the VVGng cable in the ground without additional means of protection against mechanical damage and moisture. Not recommended.
Underground cable laying is only permitted when using protective pipes, ducts or tunnels.
For laying in earthen trenches it is necessary to use cables of special brands (usually armored and with corrosion-resistant insulation), for example cable AAB2l
The decision on choosing an installation method is made based on regulatory documents, after studying all the technical characteristics of the connected equipment and other important factors. Only qualified personnel who have the necessary permits are allowed to carry out cable laying work.
When installing or repairing wiring, you have to install wires and cables. Also, if it is necessary to install a new powerful household appliances Sometimes you have to draw a separate line from . In any case, you have to somehow mount the wires to the walls or ceiling. We will further examine what the cable fastening may be like for each of these cases.
General rules
When hidden or open installation cable, indoors or outdoors, there are several general rules:
Basically, that's all the recommendations. They are versatile and uncomplicated. The distance can be reduced if necessary. For example, at turns of the route, the fasteners are installed at a short distance from the bend point - 5-10 cm. The task is to ensure reliable fixation and prevent sagging.
Methods of attachment to different surfaces
Walls and ceilings are made from various materials, having different structure and density. Depending on this characteristic, the method of fastening changes:
Actually, these are all the surfaces that are encountered inside the house when laying wiring. But sometimes the cable also needs to be attached to a pole, for example, when the electricity supply from the pole to the house stretches, or to a pipe - when the cable rises along a flammable wall.
To the concrete pillar
The cable is attached to the reinforced concrete pole with long plastic ties black color. They last about 5 years.
You can use clamps for installation sewer pipes, but you have to drill holes for them, which is very difficult. Another option is if there is a grounding wire on the pole - a round wire with a diameter of 5-6 mm, then you can attach it to it with ties. Another option is to attach strips of metal to the pole - make something like clamps, and attach the cable to them.
In a metal pipe
If the cable climbs up the wall of the house in metal pipe, they just let him inside. Since quite solid cables are used for external wiring, its rigidity is usually enough to more or less stay inside the pipe.
The pipe is closed at the top and bottom with some kind of plug (can be cut out of foam plastic and then painted along with the pipe). This plug will additionally fix the position of the cable (do not press it to the edge), and so that it does not move inside the pipe, it is attached to the wall at the exit from it.
To the cable
To attach the cable to the cable, special metal and plastic hangers are used. They consist of two parts - there is a hole for the cable and a larger one for laying cables.
Which is better - metal or plastic? Metal ones are more durable, but take longer to install - you need to tighten the screw. Plastic ones will last about 5 years, but are installed quickly - the “tail” is pulled into the corresponding hole and tightened. That's all.
Fastening for cables and wires: types and varieties
For any type of installation of electrical wiring and cables, the same types of fasteners can be used. It is selected based on the existing conditions, capabilities and tastes of the owners. The main task is to ensure high-quality fixation and not to disturb the insulation either during installation or during further work and operation. And you select the type of fastening from possible options. There are quite a lot of them - there are special ones that are produced specifically for cables, there are those borrowed from other areas, and there are homemade ones.
Clips for cable fastening
Using clips, you can secure the cable to the wall, ceiling, or floor. You'll just have to pick it up correct design, and there are many of them. Fastening the cable with clips is a very popular method - it can turn out very neatly and almost imperceptibly. This is if open wiring is assumed.
Clips for cable installation are available in metal and plastic, and in different shapes. The simplest ones look like a bow, which has holes for screws or dowels on one side and the other. They are all good, but installation requires drilling two holes, which takes a lot of time.
There is an option that allows you to maintain a fire gap during installation power cable on combustible surfaces (pictured left). This fastener is fixed to the surface with one self-tapping screw. The good thing about it is that, if necessary, you can add threads to the same fastener. To do this, you do not have to remove it, you will need to unscrew the screws holding it top part clips.
The third option is a kind of loop made from a strip of metal. To install it, you first need to insert the cables inside, then align the holes and secure them to the surface.
All these clips can be used both on the wall and on the ceiling. But when laying a large number of threads on the ceiling, they are inconvenient - too many holes are required for installation. They are made of metal, some are then painted - so that when external laying the fasteners stood out less.
Plastic clips are used mainly for securing cables in corrugated hoses. There they are different sizes under various diameters corrugations. They can be installed individually or assembled in lines - for more accurate installation of large wiring bundles. This type of clips is used mainly for hidden installation, but if the corrugation is laid outside, then it is more convenient to fix it with their help.
Dowel clip
A dowel-clip is more invisible during installation. This is a curved strip of plastic with characteristic branches at the ends, which, due to elastic force, will hold the fasteners in the wall or ceiling material. The shape of these products is available for round and flat cables of different sizes. But you can’t secure serious cables with them—they’re too small. But they look very neat on conductors of small cross-sections, including television, telephone and Internet.
They are easy to install: just drill a hole suitable diameter, a conductor is inserted into the clip, the ends are tucked into the hole and inserted there with force. It’s a really good option - it’s quick to install and looks neat. Mainly used for open wiring.
Dowel tie
Another option for quickly attaching the cable is a dowel tie. It is made from non-flammable, self-extinguishing plasticizers, allowing for quick installation cable lines. Can be used for both open and hidden installation.
Dowel tie - quick and convenient way secure the cable to concrete, brick and other surfaces
There is a coupler with a detachable and permanent lock. The detachable lock allows you to change the number of wires if necessary. The installation method is the same as for a regular dowel. The difference is that the dowel here is also plastic.
Cable ties with dowel platform (KSP)
Another option for quick installation. It consists of a dowel with a thread and a platform with a tie attached to it. First, a dowel is installed, and a platform with a screed is screwed onto it. Wires are attached to the finished route.
KSP - cable tie with mounting platform for dowel
Material: non-flammable plastic, color: grey, temperature of use: from -45°C to +85°C. Can be mounted on concrete, brick and wooden surfaces.
Clips (staples) with a nail
An excellent option for attaching cables to dense surfaces - wood and its derivatives, plaster. There is a hole on the side of the plastic bracket into which a nail is inserted. The shape of the brackets is round and rectangular - for different shapes of conductors.
Fastening the cable with such brackets is quick and unobtrusive. Most often they also attach small sizes wires - television, telephone, for the Internet.
U-shaped staples from a stapler
Even the smallest staples and clips are still quite noticeable. There is a way to make fasteners virtually invisible, at least in some cases. If present on wooden surfaces or plaster, wires and telephone cables can be secured with special clamps. They have long legs and a rounded back. There are special stapler staples designed for installing cables with plastic stops (middle picture). They do not allow the wire to be crushed, which happens when working with conventional staples if too much force is applied to the trigger mechanism.
A good method is high speed - just one click on the stapler lever and the staple is already installed. In an hour you can record a decent amount of footage. Another positive point— the fasteners are hardly noticeable; when dismantled, very small holes remain in the wood, which are also practically invisible. With plaster and chipboard, OSB is somewhat more complicated - the damage may be greater, however, it is still less noticeable than from nails, even the smallest ones.
The disadvantage of fastening cables with a stapler is significant size restrictions. Such staples are not big. Maximum size the width of the staple is 12.5 mm, and even then not in all types. This is more than enough for installing a telephone “noodle”, Internet cable or other similar conductors, but it is not always possible to secure the NYM in this way. In addition, these cables have more rigid insulation, which requires more frequent installation of staples.
Fasteners for organizing a bundle of conductors
Wires do not always need to be fixed permanently. In some cases, you just need to arrange the bundles so that they do not get confused. For example, there are usually quite a few wires running to the desktop. There is no point in fixing them rigidly - after a while, alterations may be required, and the driven nails leave holes that cannot be masked on the table with anything. There are various devices for these purposes. They are more often called wire or cable holders.
For example, the same staples, but of a different structure. On the right side of the photo above you can see a cable clip with double-sided adhesive tape attached to the back. For mounting on furniture or plastic panels this is very convenient - the glue can then be washed off, but the surface remains undamaged. In the center is the second option with the same idea, and on the left is the so-called mounting area for attaching cable ties. First, these pads are attached to the surface - they also have Velcro on the back. The bundle of wires is then secured to the holes with a regular plastic tie. Not so convenient and neat (the tails of the ties will stick out), but can also be used.
Plastic cable holders on the table
Several more options for attaching the harness electrical wires you see in the photo above. The essence is the same, the methodology is different.
Cable trays - for hidden laying of large bundles
When installing a device, you have to lay a large number of wires, and they have to be fixed to ceiling. If we are talking about apartments, then the floors are most often - concrete slab. Drilling a lot of holes in it is difficult and time-consuming; attaching wires individually or in small groups is not much easier. For such cases, suspended cable trays are used. They are usually made from galvanized wire or perforated metal.
They come in different sizes, and there are several different types of fastening - on studs attached to the ceiling, on “T” or “L”-shaped hangers.
The installation procedure is as follows: first, the structure is assembled and mounted on the ceiling, then the cables are thrown into it. If desired, they can be secured with zip ties to the grilles, but this is usually not necessary.
In addition, there are metal trays made of perforated and non-perforated metal. The latter are necessary when laying cables inside combustible walls - for example.
The same trays can be used when laying cables in underground space. But then you can use the perforated version. It will also provide excellent protection against rodents and accidental damage.
Homemade cable fastening devices
Many factory-made fixtures have a relatively low price, but when hundreds of them are required, the cost adds up to a considerable amount. And if the wiring is hidden, you need, for example, to secure the cable in a groove, why wall up extra money if you can get by with improvised means. This is what they're made of homemade mount cable:
These are the main types of cable fasteners that you can make yourself. Surely there are other options - the imagination of craftsmen is inexhaustible, but these are the most common.
Concealed installation fasteners
If cables are laid during the renovation stage, they increasingly resort to laying them inside walls, floors or ceilings. Since the result of the work is invisible, minimal attention is paid to aesthetics. But a lot of attention is paid to reliability and safety - access for alterations is very, very complicated. Therefore, when laying cables inside the wall, ceiling, or under the floor, reliable fasteners are chosen. It can be:
To lay large bundles of wires on the ceiling, it is more convenient and faster to use trays, but you can still use the same fasteners. The only bad thing is that you have to drill a lot of holes to install fasteners in concrete or brick. This is especially inconvenient when working on the ceiling. Below you will find out how best to optimize the work in this case.
If the presence of false walls or a finished floor is not expected, recesses are made for the wires - grooves. Wires are laid in them, then they are covered with a solution and then they are produced finishing. From an aesthetic point of view, the option is ideal. From an operational point of view, it is problematic, since it is almost impossible to replace or repair wiring without breaking the walls. Nevertheless, wiring is done exactly this way, simply trying to lay high-quality cables, and even with at least some reserve in terms of power or number of pairs.
According to safety rules, in combustible walls (wooden, panel and frame) the cable is laid in a non-combustible sheath or in an all-metal tray. If we are talking about a non-flammable shell, then it is usually a corrugated pipe made of non-flammable plastic. In this case, the sheath itself is attached, inside which the cable is located. This does not particularly affect the choice of fastening type, but it does affect the selection of fastener sizes - it is simply necessary that the fasteners be able to cover the shell.
Laying cables inside combustible walls is difficult: the requirements are very stringent. They can be made in frame or panel houses, but in timber or log cabins it is very difficult. It is necessary to lay all-metal trays in the walls. In this case, a large amount of wood has to be removed, which does not improve thermal characteristics and it’s not possible to make the appearance perfect. Because in wooden houses more often resort to open method installation - on top of the walls.
Fasteners for open cable routing
When laying cables externally, the appearance requirements for fasteners are more strict requirements. Since everything is in plain sight, it is necessary to select the most inconspicuous options or, conversely, the most decorative ones, such as retro wiring. This is a broad topic and it is described in detail. Other options:
There is a choice, but all methods are imperfect, so everyone decides for themselves how and with what to attach the cable.
Attaching cables to the ceiling
There is a need to attach cables to the ceiling mainly when installing or installing drywall. In the case of plasterboard, everything is somewhat simpler: there is a system of suspensions to which you can fasten wiring harnesses with plastic ties. In other cases, everything is somewhat more complicated: you have to drill a large number of holes for fasteners, because they use the same clips and brackets, and under each you need to install a dowel (if the ceiling is made of a concrete slab).
There are several ways to speed up installation:
- Using cable trays (described above).
- After attaching a number of lines to the ceiling, hang small wire harnesses from them using plastic ties.
- Use a long perforated strip of metal for fastening.
