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How to make steps to the second floor. Step-by-step instructions for building a staircase to the second floor of a country house. What type of design to choose

Building a staircase in a house is not an easy process, but it is doable. The main difficulty lies in calculating the angle of inclination and span parameters, because not only the ease of use, but also the durability of the structure depends on this. A durable and beautiful staircase to the second floor with your own hands is an opportunity to test your strength and gain experience for further home improvement.

First you need to decide on the type of staircase in order to make the calculations correctly. The most commonly used stairs in the house are wood, concrete and metal; According to the configuration, they are straight, rotary and screw. There are also combined designs of varying complexity.

Concrete products require a very strong base and a lot of time to manufacture, but they are the strongest and most durable. Installation of metal structures will not be difficult for those who know how to use welding, and wooden stairs Anyone who becomes familiar with the technology of this process in detail can make it.

A straight flight of stairs to the second floor is considered the easiest to install; it consists of a small number of parts, takes up little space, and does not require complex calculations. Screw structures are used where there is little free space; They look very elegant, but are not always easy to use. Lifting something large and heavy up such steps will be problematic. Structures with several spans are more difficult to build, but they are ideal for houses where there is a large distance between floors.

Simple wooden staircase

A single-flight staircase consists of stringers, railings, treads and risers. The tread is the horizontal part of the step, the riser is the vertical part. Stringers are load-bearing structural elements that have special cutouts along the upper edge for attaching steps. Instead of stringers, bowstrings are often used - load-bearing beams with grooves for steps. Risers and railings are not mandatory elements, but for convenience and safety it is better when they are present.

The height of the stairs is equal to the distance between floors plus the thickness of the floors. To simplify the calculation of the length of the span and base, you first need to determine the parameters of the steps. If elderly people and children live in the house, optimal height The height of the steps is 15 cm; for the rest, a height of 20 cm will be more convenient. It is not recommended to make the riser even higher, since the rise will be too steep and less comfortable.

The width of the step is 20-30 cm, and here a lot depends on how much space can be allocated under the stairs. The wider the steps, the more space the structure takes up. When suitable sizes selected, you can calculate the number of steps and the length of the base. To do this, divide the height of the stairs by the height of the riser, round the resulting value to a whole number, and then multiply by the depth of the tread. For example, if overall height equal to 3 m, and the height of the riser is 20 cm, 15 steps will be required:

3000:200=15

With a step width of 25 cm, the length of the base is 15x250=3750 mm.

Manufacturing technology

When the calculations have been made, you can begin to manufacture the staircase elements. Stringers require very dense solid wood, because they must support not only the weight of the structure, but also people. A template is cut out of thick cardboard, on which the cutouts correspond to the size of the steps, and the slope is equal to the angle of inclination of the stairs. At the ends of the stringers, grooves are cut for fastening to the base and upper ceilings, after which markings are made according to the template.

For further work you will need:

• jigsaw;
• sander;
• building level;
• anchor bolts;
• drill;
• hammer.

Using a jigsaw, protrusions are made on the stringers according to the markings, then they are processed on both sides with a grinder. Holes for fasteners are cut out in the floor beams or metal supports are installed. A support beam is installed on the floor of the first floor along the line of the lower step and secured with anchor bolts. After this, the stringers are installed, making sure to check the angle of inclination using a level. The stringers are secured at the bottom and top with anchor bolts.

The next step is making the steps. To do this, take dry boards with a thickness of 36 mm or more; their width should be equal to the width of the steps or be slightly larger. For risers, you can use boards with a thickness of 20 mm or more. The length of the blanks must correspond to the width of the stairs - from 80 cm to 1.2 m.

After trimming, each workpiece must be sanded to remove sharp cuts and irregularities. The process of installing the steps is very simple: the lower cutouts of the stringers are coated with wood glue and risers are applied, aligning them along the edges. They are secured with self-tapping screws and laid on top of the steps. Glue is needed so that the wooden elements do not creak under load.

Having laid all the steps one by one, they begin to install the railings. Railings consist of balusters and handrails; timber is used to make balusters square section or figured wood blanks. Balusters are installed either on each step or every other step, depending on the slope and length of the span. Self-tapping screws are used as fasteners, which are often covered with special plugs for beauty. If the staircase to the second floor is located in the center of the room, railings can be installed on both sides.

The finished structure is sanded again and treated with an antiseptic primer. After this, you need to cover the wood with varnish, paint or other composition that does not form too smooth surface. If the steps are rough, this will increase their safety for household members. The coating is applied in 2 or 3 layers, and each layer must dry completely before applying the next.

In a spacious house with concrete floors the second floor can be made of concrete stairs. Most often, two types of structures are installed in houses - monolithic and combined, in which only the stringer is concrete. The second option looks more attractive and elegant. To make a concrete staircase, you definitely need formwork and a very strong base.

During the work you will need:

• edged board covered with film or waterproof plywood;
• durable timber 100x100 mm;
• knitting wire and fittings;
• self-tapping screws;
• concrete solution.

Boards for formwork are chosen with a thickness of 3 cm, the thickness of plywood should not be less than 18 mm. All dimensions are calculated in the same way as for a wooden staircase, but the base must be as strong as possible. They start by assembling the formwork: boards or plywood are knocked down according to the drawing, observing the angle of inclination and preventing the formation of cracks.

The finished formwork is installed between floors and secured with wooden blocks. After this, reinforcement is laid out inside the frame, tying the transverse rods with wire. Wooden plugs are fixed at the places where the railings are installed, and then the formwork is filled with the prepared solution. The frame must be filled immediately, otherwise the solidity of the base will be broken.

When the concrete has set well, the formwork is removed, and the surface of the steps is periodically moistened to avoid cracking. You can begin finishing only after the concrete has completely dried and hardened. To make a combined staircase, pouring the stringer is done in exactly the same way, but the formwork is made much narrower and takes into account the installation of steps.

To finish a monolithic structure, wood, stone, tiles and other materials are used. When facing, the weight of the material should be taken into account, because tiles and stone place a greater load on the base than wood panels. Any steps can be attached to a concrete stringer; such a base combines especially well with wood.

For the manufacture and installation of straight metal stairs for the second floor you will need:

• steel channel No. 10;
• metal corners;
• welding machine;
• sheet iron;
• file and grinder with a grinding attachment.

The channel is cut into pieces and a frame is assembled from them according to the size of the stairs. Corners are welded to the side edges of the frame at equal intervals equal to the height of the step. All corners should be parallel to each other. To make it easier to install the structure, the steps are welded after installation and fastening of the frame.

The upper ends of the frame are securely fixed with anchor bolts to the ceiling of the second floor, the lower ends are fixed to the floor. Next, the steps are welded from sheet iron and the railings are attached. Upon completion of assembly, the joints are ground with a nozzle or treated with a file, and then covered with an anti-corrosion primer.

This design takes up little space and looks more decorative. With a height of 2.5 m, you will need to make approximately 15-17 steps; the diameter of the base will be about 2 m. The most common way of installing spiral staircases is to string trapezoidal or triangular shape. The narrow part is 15 cm wide, the wide part is 30-35 cm.

To make a spiral staircase yourself, you will need:

• steel pipe with a diameter of 50 mm;
• pipe with a diameter of 55 mm;
• wooden slats for the template;
• corners for steps;
• welding machine;
• file;
• primer.

The smaller diameter pipe is the central post, so its length should correspond to the distance between the first and second floors. For greater stability of the structure, it is recommended to concrete the stand at the base, first aligning it vertically. A larger diameter pipe is cut into cylinders about 25 cm long. The cuts must be made strictly perpendicular, otherwise the steps will not be aligned horizontally.

It is very important that the cylinders fit tightly onto the central pipe and do not form any backlash. If a tight connection does not occur, sealing rings will be required.

To make steps, it is convenient to use a template made from slats. The wooden slats are glued together so that the corners inserted into the frame form a step of the specified parameters.

Each stage is welded to its own cylinder and carefully ground. After manufacturing all the elements, you can begin assembling the structure. The steps are placed on the axle pipe, the angle is set and tightly welded to the axle.

The final stage is attaching the railings and finishing. Railings can consist of fittings, chrome-plated tubes, thin profiles; Forged railings look very elegant. All metal surfaces must be sanded, primed and painted.

In a similar way, a spiral staircase to the second floor is assembled from wooden steps. Wood blanks are made in the form of a trapezoid, in the narrow part of which a hole with a diameter of 50 mm is drilled. With the help of special seals, the steps strung on the axle are fixed on the central post. Next, the railings are installed, the wood is primed and painted, and decorated with decor.

Video - How to make a staircase to the second floor

Video - Do-it-yourself wooden staircase

Construction of a staircase to the second floor is a rather complicated procedure, but with experience and good step by step guide You can easily deal with this on your own. The main difficulty in this case is that the span dimensions and the angle of inclination of the structure must be calculated with extreme accuracy, since both the durability of the structure and the ease of its operation largely depend on this. A reliable and aesthetically attractive staircase is an excellent chance to test yourself and gain valuable experience for subsequent work in your private home.

First, you should decide what role your staircase should play in the overall interior. This design can serve decorative element or be invisible; Moreover, the staircase can become the central element of the entire design, according to which the entire room will be decorated. But before choosing a specific option and starting production itself, it is necessary to find out how this kind of staircase is generally constructed and determine its required dimensions.

Construction - what are interfloor stairs made of?

And they consist of a large number of structural elements. You definitely can’t do without some, while others, on the contrary, may be missing in some variations of the described design.

Let's start with the fact that the structure must necessarily contain steps, as well as supports that support them - these are the main elements of any interfloor structure of this type. The step itself is an element consisting of two parts perpendicular to each other. In professional terms, from the approach and riser. The latter, by the way, serves as a kind of support for the approaches, but you can often do without it.

As for supports, they can be of two types:

• stringer (this is a special beam that supports the steps from below);
• bowstring (a similar beam for steps, only it supports them at the ends).

The next structural element is the railing. They are extremely important, even if they are not available on all types of construction. And if elderly relatives or children live in your house, you certainly can’t do without railings.

Finally, balusters are special vertical supports for railings, often necessary not only for practicality, but also for decorative purposes. For balusters can be used various materials, and the shape of the elements is also different.

Pay attention! Due to the wide variety of stairs, they may have parts that are required exclusively for a given design. Let's get to know them.

• Boltsy. They mean special bolts designed to support steps. They can be attached both to them and to the walls themselves. They are not used often, but only for some staircase options.
• Racks. Such elements are used in the construction of spiral staircases. Steps that have a special shape and form a spiral that rises to the second floor from the first are attached to one such rack with an appropriate step.

Which staircase to the second floor should I choose for my home?

So, first we determine what kind of staircase we need and make the appropriate calculations. As a rule, in private houses there are metal, concrete and wooden stairs.

By design, they can all be:

1. screw;
2. rotary;
3. straight.

There are also, by the way, combined options that have varying degrees of complexity, but we will not dwell on them.

Concrete stairs require a very strong foundation, and the construction itself takes a lot of time, but the finished structures are very durable and strong. Installing a metal staircase is not difficult, provided that you know how to work with a welding machine. But anyone can build a wooden structure if you become familiar with the algorithm of such a process.

Straight line is rightfully considered the simplest in construction. marching design- not a particularly complicated staircase to the second floor with your own hands. It is quite compact, does not include too many parts, and complex calculations in this case are not required. If free space is limited, then best option- This is a spiral staircase, which, although it looks elegant, is not always convenient to use. For example, it will be difficult for you to lift something heavy or bulky. Structures that consist of several spans are more difficult to install, but they are the most suitable option for buildings with large distances between floors.

Do-it-yourself wooden staircase to the second floor

This design consists of the following elements:

• stringers;
• risers;
• tread;
• railing

We’ve already figured out what each of these elements is, so let’s get straight to the main thing.

So, the height of a single-flight staircase to the second floor should be the same as the distance between floors + floors. To simplify the calculation, you first need to determine the dimensions of the steps themselves. If children or elderly relatives live with you, then it is advisable that the steps be 15 centimeters in height, in other cases this height can be 20 centimeters. It is not advisable to exceed the last value, since the climb will be steeper and the climb will not be as convenient.

As for the width of the steps, it should vary from 20 to 30 centimeters - the specific value depends on how much free space is allocated for staircase structure. After all, the wider the steps, the more space will be required. Select the required dimensions, start calculating the length of the base and the number of steps. Take the total height of the entire structure and divide it by the height of one riser, and round the number you get to the nearest whole number and multiply it by the tread depth. For example, the entire staircase to the second floor with your own hands will have a height of 300 centimeters, and the height of each riser will be 20 centimeters.

15 steps are required here because:

300:20=15

And if the width of each step is 25 centimeters, then the base should be 37.5 centimeters in length (15x25 = 37.5).

Step-by-step instructions for making a staircase to the second floor

Having finished with the calculations, begin to manufacture all the necessary structural elements. Stringers need to be made of hard and dense wood, since they will bear both the weight of people and the weight of the entire staircase. Cut out a template from thick cardboard, making cutouts corresponding to the dimensions of the steps, the slope should be the same as the angle of inclination of the stairs themselves. Cut grooves at the ends of the stringers, through which they will be attached to the ceiling and base, and then mark them in accordance with a pre-made template.

To cope with the subsequent work, you must prepare:

1. electric jigsaw;
2. hammer;
3. grinding machine;
4. drill;
5. level;
6. and finally the anchor bolts.

Take a jigsaw and use it to make projections on the stringers in accordance with the markings, then carefully sand both sides. Next, cut out mounting holes in the floor beams or, alternatively, install metal supports. In the place where the first step will be located on the ground floor, install a support beam, securing it with anchor bolts. Then install the stringers, making sure to check the slope using a level. Secure the stringers at the top/bottom using the same anchor bolts.

Now you can make the steps yourself. Take dry boards that are at least 3.6 centimeters thick; the width at this time should be similar to the width of future steps or even slightly larger.

Pay attention! When making risers, you can take boards 2 centimeters thick.

As for the length of the blanks, it should be the same as the width of the entire structure (that is, within 80-120 centimeters).

Once you have finished trimming, carefully sand each piece to remove any rough edges or sharp edges. The installation process itself is not complicated: coat the lower cutouts on the stringers with wood glue, attach risers and align everything along the edges. Next, secure them using self-tapping screws, and lay the steps themselves on top. If you don't use glue, then wooden parts will create squeaks under load.

Lay all the steps in the same way, and then begin attaching the railings. Make balusters for railings from square beams or, alternatively, curly wooden blanks. You can install it on each step or every other step (it all depends on the characteristics of the span). Fasten with self-tapping screws, do not forget to close the caps with decorative plugs. If the staircase to the second floor with your own hands is located approximately in the middle of the room, you can equip railings on each side at once.

At the end finished staircase sand thoroughly and treat with antiseptic. Then paint or varnish the wood. It is important that the final surface is not too smooth - the roughness of the steps will significantly increase the safety of the residents of the house. Apply the final coat in two or three layers, and before each new layer the previous one must be completely dry.

Straight concrete staircase

If your house is spacious enough and interfloor ceilings it is made of concrete, then you can easily build concrete stairs. As a rule, people often build one of two design options:

1. monolithic;
2. combined type(here only the stringer is made of concrete).

Note that option No. 2 looks much more attractive. However, for concrete stairs in any case, formwork is required, as well as a sufficiently strong base that can withstand such weight.

To get started, prepare everything you need, in particular:

• moisture-resistant plywood (can be replaced edged board, covered with PET film);
• concrete;
• strong beams 10x10 centimeters in cross section;
• self-tapping screws;
• reinforcement or special knitting wire.

Pay attention! The thickness of the board for constructing the formwork should be 3 centimeters, and the plywood - at least 1.8 centimeters. All required dimensions calculate in the same way as for the structure from the previous paragraph of the article, however, the strength characteristics of the base are required to be maximum.

Start the work by constructing the formwork: take plywood or boards, knock them down in accordance with a pre-drawn drawing, avoiding the appearance of cracks and observing the required slope.

When the formwork is ready, install it between the floors and secure it with the same bars. Then lay out the reinforcement bars inside the formwork and tie them together with steel wire. Where the railings will be installed, secure the wooden plugs, and only after that fill the entire box with the prepared concrete solution. It is important that the formwork be filled immediately, in one go, otherwise the solidity of the future structure will be broken.

After the concrete has set, dismantle the box and moisten the formed steps with water from time to time, otherwise their surface may crack. Start finishing only when the concrete has gained strength and is completely dry. When building a staircase of a combined type, the stringers are poured in a similar way, and the formwork should be narrower (which is typical, the installation of steps should be taken into account here).

Ready monolithic structure you can decorate it with stone, wood, decorative tiles and other finishing materials. Before proceeding directly to the cladding, take into account the weight - for example, the same tile will put a much greater load on the foundation than wood. You can attach any steps to concrete stringers, but they will look especially attractive with wood.

Video - Making your own stairs

How to build a metal staircase

Assembling such a structure is not so difficult, but this will require skills in working with a welding machine and metal elements generally.

So, first, prepare the following materials and equipment:

1. grinder with grinding attachment;
2. channel number 10;
3. file;
4. iron corners;
5. metal in sheets;
6. actually welding.

First, take a channel, cut it into pieces and assemble a frame from them the size of the staircase to the second floor with your own hands. Next, take the corners and weld them to the ends of the resulting frame with the same pitch, equal to the height of the steps. It is important that all corners are located exactly perpendicular to each other. To make it easier to install the structure, you can weld the steps after the frame has been mounted and secured.

Attach the upper elements of the frame to the upper floor efficiently, using anchor bolts for this purpose. Attach the lower ends to the floor of the lower floor. After this, weld the steps made of sheet metal, and install the railings. Once you have finished assembling, carefully sand the joints. special nozzle or, alternatively, regular files. Finally, treat the entire structure with an anti-corrosion primer.

How to make a spiral staircase

The main advantages of a spiral staircase are excellent decorative properties, and also the fact that such a design does not take up much space. For example, a staircase 2.5 meters high will consist of 16-17 steps, while the base will have approximately 2 meters in diameter. One of the most popular ways to construct spiral staircases to the second floor is to “string” triangular/trapezoidal steps on a central axis. In this case, the width of the wide part will be from 30 to 35 centimeters, and the narrow part – only 15 centimeters.

For self-made Stairs to the second floor will be needed:

• two steel pipes by 5 and 5.5 centimeters;
• primer mixture;
• wooden slats with which the template will be made;
• file;
• corners;
• welding machine.

A pipe with a smaller diameter will serve as our main rack; therefore, its length should be the same as the interfloor distance. It is also recommended to concrete the stairs next to the base to make them more stable (don’t forget to align the structure vertically in advance). A large pipe must be cut into cylinders, the length of which is approximately 15 centimeters. Make all cuts strictly at an angle of 90 degrees, otherwise you will not be able to align all the steps horizontally.

Pay attention! The cylinders should fit onto the main pipe as tightly as possible, and there should be no backlash. If the connection is not tight, you will have to use sealing rings.

To make the steps you will need a template made from wooden slats. Glue the latter in such a way that the corners placed in the frame form steps of the required size.

Weld each step to the corresponding cylinder, then sand thoroughly. When all the necessary elements are ready, begin to assemble the entire structure. Place the steps on the axle, set the angles and weld them securely.

The last step is to install the railings and final finishing the entire structure. To make railings you can use:

• fittings;
• thin profile;
• chrome-plated pipes of small diameter.

Forged railings will also look very impressive. At the same time, do not forget that all metal surfaces must be thoroughly sanded, treated with a primer mixture and painted.

The spiral staircase to the second floor is assembled in a similar way, using wooden steps. Wood blanks should be made in the shape of trapezoids, after which a hole with a diameter of 5 centimeters is made in the narrow part. Next, using special seals, the steps must be threaded onto the axle and fixed there. At the end, the railings are attached, the wood is primed, painted and decorated.

Features of assembling stairs to the second floor with your own hands

As a result, you should consider another interesting option for how to build a staircase to the second floor with your own hands. In this case, we will talk about the design on the rails, which got its name from it. Bolzen, which translates to "bolt". In other words, we are talking about a structure that is fixed with special bolts. Although in reality these are not even bolts, but fasteners made in the form of pins, the ends of which have threads. Thanks to the bolts, the railings and steps are connected to each other, and are also attached to the wall. As a result, we get an airy and light staircase that can decorate any private house. Moreover, in this case there are no risers at all.

Among other things, stairs of this type can be either quite compact or stretched over a specific section of the wall. Despite the fact that these structures seem light, in reality they are strong and durable, they can easily withstand several hundred kilograms, which is why, in fact, they gain such popularity. recent years increasingly popular.

Pay attention! It is quite obvious that it is impossible to install such a staircase in the center of the room, because, as we have already found out, the mounting is carried out to the wall. But the most important thing is that for construction you need to use only high-quality and durable materials.

Calculating such a staircase with your own hands is extremely difficult, but it can be purchased at finished form or order specialists individual project. For more details on the installation of this structure, see the video below.

That's all, good luck and warm winters!

Video - How to install a wooden staircase on rails

The construction of a private house often involves the presence of a second floor or an insulated attic. This design allows you to expand the living space of the structure and significantly save on the construction of an expensive foundation. And also in two-story house it is much easier to organize a suitable layout. However, the presence of several floors requires the construction of stairs, which stops many novice builders. In fact, a high-quality staircase structure is easy to make with my own hands, knowing certain features.

Design Features

Before choosing a ready-made staircase from renowned manufacturers or starting to purchase materials for a home-made structure, you need to understand what any staircase consists of. The basics of construction are so basic that there are no differences between staircases various types practically none.

• Any staircase consists of steps, be it a small porch staircase or a spiral passage to the second floor. It is the steps that bear the main load. In almost any design, together with steps, risers act as the main element. Their main function is to hide or decorate the attachment points and internal structure the entire structure. But both of these elements do not hang in space, but rely on the next one - a stringer or a bowstring.

• Stringers They are two sawtooth-shaped boards. The step itself is laid on the horizontal part of the cut, and the riser is attached to the vertical part. In some cases, for example, when the staircase is located near a wall, you can use only one stringer, and attach the second side of the riser directly to the wall.
• Bowstring, unlike a stringer, consists of two straight thick boards with grooves cut into them. Steps with risers are inserted into such grooves, made according to one template. For greater reliability of such a ladder, the string is tied together with wooden or metal cords.
• And also one of the important, albeit optional, elements is railing, which reduce the risk of tripping and falling from a height. In some cases, a platform and a support step are installed.

Species

The most used interfloor staircases in modern houses can be divided into three types: spiral, marching and rail staircases.

Marching

A simpler and more common design is a staircase. Depending on the height of the floor, it can be single-flight or multi-flight. Marches are segments with a different number of steps. Usually their number does not exceed fifteen, but the most convenient are marches in nine steps. And also the marching staircase can be open type(without risers) and closed (with risers). The choice most often depends only on personal preferences, since there are differences, except appearance, in such types there is no.

Open marching stairs often used as a temporary solution and later replaced by more complex designs.

Marching ladders can be supported either by a stringer or a bowstring; there are no advantages to one or the other support. Near the wall it is more convenient to use a single stringer, but if desired, you can also make a bowstring, this will simply slightly increase the consumption of material. With all its advantages, the marching design has one significant drawback - it takes up quite a lot of space.

To save it, such stairs are made with angular turns, otherwise its construction in a small private house is simply unjustified. The steps of such a staircase are called winders and are made in a trapezoidal shape. The most common march turns are 90 degrees (quarter-turn march) and 180 degrees (half-turn). If the rotation degree is 360, then such a staircase turns into a spiral one.

On the Bolts

With the increasing popularity of high-tech style in interior design, the popularity of such stairs has also increased. Their main structural element is bolted fastening, which is why they got their name (“bolz” is “bolt” in German). Due to the absence of a frame on which the steps would rest, the staircase turns out to be “floating” in the air.

The role of the frame is taken over by the bolts, which are mounted to the handrails. Although in some cases the design involves the use of one stringer or one bowstring attached to the wall.

The main advantage of such a staircase is that to repair and dismantle one element there is no need to dismantle or replace the entire structure.

Screw

Often a spiral staircase is installed to save space and enhance the beauty of the design. It is really great for small houses with high ceilings. At the same time, such stairs are narrow and steep, and are also much more difficult to manufacture and assemble than conventional marching structures. They cannot be used by two people at the same time, and it is practically impossible to lift any large furniture or equipment on them.

Spiral staircases are divided into two subspecies. In the first case, the structure consists of a central support to which the steps are attached, and one bent handrail. In the second case, there is no central support, and bent handrails are attached on both sides. This subtype is more complex to manufacture and imposes certain requirements on the quality of the materials used.

In some cases, a spiral staircase may be located near a wall and some steps can be additionally secured in recesses created in the wall. The classic spiral design is round, but the staircase can also be made polygonal or complex in any shape.

Which one to choose?

The staircase design is created simultaneously with the design of the house itself. To select the right design, consider the following:

• where the staircase will be located: against the wall or in the center of the room;
• how many people will be going up and down the steps, what age they will be. It can be difficult for older people to climb high steps, and if there are small children in the house, the presence of handrails is simply a must;
• Are you planning to lift heavy objects to the second floor? The minimum load on steps is 200 kilograms per cubic meter, and on railings – 100 kilograms per cubic meter;
• the angle of inclination must be constant along the entire length of the stairs and should not exceed 40 degrees;
• the span width must be at least 80 centimeters, and the height of the railing must be at least 90 centimeters;
• the gap between the balusters should not exceed 15 cm, they should not be too sparse.

Materials used

Most often, planed wood without irregularities, spikes and other defects is used to make stairs. Before work, such material is dried and treated with stain. After this, the wood can be coated with one or two layers of special varnish. High-quality wood for staircase construction is only first-grade wood with a moisture content not exceeding 10 percent.

If the humidity of the material during assembly work is higher, there is a possibility that after drying the structure will deform quite strongly. You can use both budget types of wood and elite expensive materials.

Pine wood is light gray, highly durable, but easy to process. Low cost is one of the biggest advantages. Birch wood is also inexpensive. The absence of a pronounced wood pattern allows you to bring interesting design ideas to life. Ash, on the contrary, has a pronounced wood grain due to the special structure of the fibers. Despite its high flexibility during processing, ash is more durable than birch or pine.

Oak hardwood has a light yellow hue and is highly valued due to its high strength. Classic oak stairs will last very long for a long time and will bring a little luxury to even the simplest interior. Oak can compete with maple, which, due to the lack of pores, has even higher strength and durability. However, in addition to the high price, such material has another significant disadvantage: It is very difficult to process.

In addition to wood, stairs are made of materials such as glass, plastic, concrete and metal. However, such stairs are rarely made independently, since special tools are required to attach their elements. For example, for welded metal structure In addition to the welding machine itself, you need a grinder, a special vice, a metal table, metal drills and much more. It is better to order such stairs, which are difficult to manufacture, from professionals.

How to make it yourself?

Since the easiest one to make with your own hands is a wooden marching structure with a stringer, it makes sense to dwell on it in more detail. It is also the safest if there are railings of the correct height.

Calculations

First you need to correctly calculate all the dimensions, the number of steps and the width of the span. The height of the room and the length of the wall or space allocated for the stairs are taken as the basis. Having reduced these dimensions to scale, it is necessary to draw a drawing right triangle: the height and length will be the legs, and the hypotenuse is the ladder itself.

The ideal scheme is one where the angle of inclination of the stairs will not exceed 40–45 degrees. The width of the tread should not be less than 200 mm, so we divide the natural length of the lower leg by the size of the tread and get the finished number of steps.

Then we divide the natural height of the second leg by the number of steps and get the average riser height. Their height should not exceed 120 millimeters, and if this happens, you will either have to increase the length of the stairs or choose a different design, for example, a spiral one. All the obtained dimensions are plotted on the drawing, and a finished sketch is obtained, from which it is easy to make the stringer and steps yourself.

The width of the span depends on personal preferences and the free space of the room, but cannot be less than 80 cm. Calculation of staircases on beams is carried out in a similar way. For a screw structure, you will need more complex drawings in the form of a circle of a certain diameter, cut into sectors - steps.

Construction

To ensure that making parts with your own hands does not bring unexpected unpleasant surprises, you must very accurately transfer all dimensions from the drawing to the material and follow detailed instructions. Choice quality material will greatly simplify the construction process: good dry wood is easy to saw and fasten. The most difficult thing is to make an even stringer, since strength and aesthetics depend on it finished design. A solid board without knots or cracks is selected for it. The thickness of such a board can vary between 45–50 millimeters.

The treads themselves are made from boards 30–35 millimeters thick and should be 1.5–2 centimeters wider in width than the space made for them on the stringer. The edges of the treads should be made rounded and carefully sanded so as not to accidentally injure yourself on a small splinter or plant a splinter. If a closed staircase was planned, then for it it is necessary to make, in addition to the treads themselves, risers. Even a thin board 1.5–2 centimeters thick is suitable for them, because the entire load will fall on the stringers, and they will only slightly support the step and cover the internal space.

It is best to purchase handrails or balusters ready-made with fasteners. All that remains is to fasten the wooden elements with self-tapping screws, and weld the metal ones using a special apparatus. If there are elderly and small children in the house, then two balusters must be placed on each step, but if not, then one is enough. For a staircase on rails with one stringer, the production of parts follows a similar pattern, only without risers and with the purchase of metal rails instead of wooden railings.

Making a round spiral staircase with your own hands is incredibly difficult. Starting from the impossibility of producing without special equipment bent parts at home, and ending with the specific design, patterns and fasteners, for which it is almost impossible to buy in a regular hardware store. A way out of the situation could be to install a conventional rotary flight staircase with an angle of 360 degrees or order finished product from professionals.

Installation

Installation is the most difficult and critical stage after all the elements have been manufactured or purchased. During installation, it is necessary to constantly check the parts for level or plumb to ensure that the entire structure is properly secured and does not pose a hazard. First of all, you need to install the stringers according to the marks that are pre-installed on the floor of the first and second floors.

On the floor of the first floor there is a special support beam to which the bottom of the stringers must be secured. And at the top of the stairs you can use metal supports connected to ceiling beam anchor bolts. The risers are screwed to the installed stringers, and treads are attached to them on top using self-tapping screws.

You can install both of these elements at once, starting from the bottom up and connecting one step after another.

Then you can install the balusters. Support posts are placed at the lower and upper edges of the stairs, which limit the structure of the railing and support it. The balusters themselves can be different types and fastenings: some are screwed using self-tapping screws, for others holes are drilled or special grooves are sawed. The installed elements are covered on top with handrails that are attached to support posts along the edges of the stairs.

If the railing is quite heavy, you can add several additional posts. In such cases, instead of balusters, you can use long wooden strips installed parallel to the staircase.

After assembling the entire structure, you can treat the surface of the resulting staircase grinder and sandpaper of various grits. After this, various antiseptic compounds are applied to the wood to protect against insects, mold, mildew and rot. After applying all necessary solutions you need to let the wood dry completely, and then coat it with several layers of varnish.

If the wood needs to be darkened, you can apply stain before varnishing and also allow it to dry completely. After all applied coatings have dried, the staircase is ready for use.

The staircase is not only building structure, but also a source of danger of injury in a private home. This design should be made as safe as possible: low comfortable steps, reliable material and, of course, durable railings. You should not make stairs from slippery tiles or wood varnished in several layers. If it is necessary to coat the wood with varnish, then at each step you need to make several scratches with sandpaper on the dried varnish - they will not be noticeable, but can save you from falling. You can also cover a wooden staircase with a heavy carpet - this will also prevent slipping.

The main thing in this type of finishing is to carefully secure the carpet on each step with small self-tapping screws so that it does not come off at the most inopportune moment. You should not cover the stairs with linoleum - this will only increase the risk of falling, since linoleum is quite slippery even on a plane.

If a private house has more than one floor, you cannot do without a staircase. But besides the fact that it must connect the floors, the staircase must also fit into the interior. Therefore, when choosing a design, you need to pay attention not only to the dimensions and how much space it takes up in the room, but also to take into account the style. Then a hand-made staircase to the second floor will not only be a functional item, but also an interior decoration. The work is difficult and responsible, but you can do it.

Types of stairs to the second floor in a private house

All these structures can be made of metal, wood, concrete, glass, marble and others decorative stones, and often use combinations of these materials. But most often, the staircase to the second floor is made from wood, a little less often - from metal or combinations of metal and wood.

In addition, there are two types of degrees - open and closed. In open stairs there is only a horizontal part - the step itself, in closed ones - there is also a vertical part - the riser.

Design standards

When designing a staircase, it is important to make it comfortable and safe. There are very specific numbers and recommendations that relate to the parameters of the steps and the general angle of elevation:

The number of steps is determined by simply dividing the height of the planned staircase by the selected riser height. For example, the height of the room is 285 cm. It was decided to make the elevation angle 40°. From the table we see that the height of the riser is 19 cm. Divide 285 cm / 19 cm = 15 steps. If the number turns out to be even, we slightly adjust the size accordingly to get an odd number.

If one of the steps turns out to be several centimeters smaller, this height is “taken away” from the first step. All others, including the last one, should be the same.

When choosing the size of the steps, comfort can be checked. If the double height of the riser is added to the selected step width, the result should be from 60 ms to 64 cm. The second test option is that the sum of the lengths of the tread and riser is optimally equal to 45 cm, but deviations of 2 cm in both directions are acceptable.

All these parameters must be taken into account when designing a house. If the house has already been built, you have to proceed from what is there and adjust the dimensions to the existing dimensions.

Spiral staircase

As already mentioned, a spiral staircase in a private house takes up the least amount of space. But it has a serious drawback: it is inconvenient to walk on it, and it is almost impossible to lift anything bulky to the second floor. So they are not very popular, although they look good and fit well into any interior.

Calculation features

When designing a spiral staircase, it must be taken into account that in some positions there are other steps above your head. Therefore, it will not be possible to make small risers.

The next feature is that the steps are all unequal in width - narrower on one side, wider on the other. The narrow part is attached to the central support (post), the wide part is attached to the walls or balusters. The standard for the width of the tread is measured in the middle part, and the wide part should not be more than 40 cm.

The span width is from 50 cm to 100 cm. The entire structure is doubled - a square with a side of 100 cm to 200 cm is required.

Prefabricated column design

This type of spiral staircase is the easiest to make: a pipe is placed on which wooden elements are placed - steps, intermediate cylinders, etc.

If we look in more detail, then except metal pipe(in this case with a diameter of 40 mm), steps and balusters (available in any design) there are turned wooden cylinders (segments) that set the distance from one step to another.

On the other hand, the distance between the steps is maintained using cuts on the balusters. The steps are attached to these grooves (with glue + fasteners).

Do-it-yourself installation of a staircase to the second floor begins with the installation of a pillar. A hole equal to the diameter of the pillar is made in the floor of the first floor and the ceiling of the second. We insert the pipe into the hole, put on the enlarged washer, and tighten the nut. Further assembly is simple: the corresponding elements are mounted on the rod, and in parallel with the installation of the step, a baluster is placed and secured. The dimensions of the steps for this spiral staircase with the given parameters are in the drawing.

The steps are cut from laminated boards or furniture board. You can use solid wood, but of furniture quality, that is, without any defects and dried, with a humidity of no more than 8-12%. Although laminated wood is considered more reliable: it will definitely not be damaged and will not crack when dried.

Assembly example similar design look in the video. It has a prefabricated pole, but you can also use a solid one, although assembling the steps will be inconvenient - you will have to climb the stairs every time.

The design of a metal spiral staircase is presented in the following video fragment. For those who are familiar with welding, this option will be easier.

Spiral staircase to the second floor: photos of interesting options

With or without railings - the choice is yours. In the photo on the right, a wooden spiral staircase on a bent stringer is a difficult element to execute. Forged twisted staircases are a classic of the genre.

Marching staircase to the second floor

Marching stairs are the most popular. Firstly, they are convenient to use, and secondly, the technology for their construction has long been proven. There are few specific features of the calculation. It is important to decide on the number of marches. One section should have from 3 to 15 steps. The most convenient ones have 11-13 pieces. If according to calculations it turns out that there should be more steps, they are divided into several sections, between which platforms are made. The dimensions of the platforms are multiples of the step length (600-630 mm). Then the ascent and descent will not cause inconvenience.

Species

Stairs with landings take up quite a lot of space. If there is not enough space, turns are added. The most common option is to place the stairs at the corners of two adjacent walls. Also, to save space, you can make winder (turning) steps instead of a platform. Just one thing: the section with winder steps is the most dangerous. If the family has small children or elderly people, it is better to make a playground.

As we have said before, flight stairs are made on stringers (beams with a sawtooth edge) and on terives (just an inclined beam). Attaching steps to string beams requires more time and skill. Usually, a “seat” is cut out for each step - a groove is selected in the board. For additional reliability, bars are also nailed from below or corners are installed. The option with corners is reliable, but quite controversial from an aesthetic point of view. If the entire staircase is made of wood, metal parts are very “cutting” to the eye. Carefully processed bars look much more organic. However, if the boards for the steps are thick enough and the string is wide enough, you can do without additional fasteners. In this case, it is important that the steps do not bend, otherwise they may jump out of the grooves.

Assembling steps on stringers is simpler: you have two or three supports to which parts cut to size are attached. The main task is to correctly mark and cut the stringers.

This is a staircase on stringers - one of the fragments of the assembly

Installation of a flight of stairs with step-by-step photos

Stringers are made from wide boards 75-80 mm thick and 350-400 mm wide. If there is no solid dry board, you can use glued ones. How to calculate the stringer is described in the form, but you can assemble the staircase to the second floor not only as a free-standing one.

An example of assembling a staircase on stringers against a wall is below. First we fasten support pillars, on which the winder steps will rest. We attach the upper stringers to these pillars.

Then we install the lower ones. We attach the stringer near the wall on top of a decorative board - it is easier to clean and the dirt is less visible than on the wall.

We attach the lower stringers - one to the post, the second to the finishing board

Intermediate stringers are installed last. This makes it easier to connect all the elements.

The installation of steps begins. After they are cut, sanded and painted, everything is simple: put them in place, drill a hole for the screw, then tighten it.

The next step is attaching the balusters. In this case, they are made of stainless pipe with wooden inserts. A hole is drilled under each baluster into which a tube is inserted and fixed with a pin or any other available method.

Photos of interesting marching stairs to the 2nd floor

Metal and glass - an interesting combination. Interesting idea, and at the end - a pantry.

One-story buildings in the private sector are erected only to support economic activities and are used as auxiliary buildings. A full-fledged residential building with at least 2 floors. Therefore, one cannot do without such a functional element as a staircase to the second floor.

The problem of moving from one level to another can be solved simply - buy ready set and install it yourself.

Its cost starts from approximately 33,000 rubles (pine, 14 steps, turning staircase with two flights). Do-it-yourself installation is easy. The problem is different - how will it fit into the interior, will it be necessary to adjust individual elements or partially reconstruct the 1st floor?

Many companies provide services for the production of sets according to customer drawings, but as practice shows, such stairs are 1.5 times more expensive. That is why, most often, the most acceptable option is to make a wooden staircase to the second floor from scratch, which is quite possible with your own hands.

How to do this, what to pay attention to - this is what this article is devoted to.

Terminology

Before we look at design features, it is necessary to “decipher” some specific definitions. The main elements are shown in the diagrams.

• Step. Its horizontal part is called the tread, the vertical part (it may not exist) is called the riser.
• Support beams. If the steps are adjacent to them with the end parts, then this is a bowstring. If they “overlap” the beam and their edges protrude beyond it, then it is called a stringer.
• Railing supports. They are more often called balusters or pillars. For a screw structure, the term rack is used.
• Fasteners. In some types of stairs, the steps are fixed directly to the adjacent wall using special bolts - bolts.

Types of staircase designs

For self-production, the simplest ones are marching ones. For a private house they are installed in one or two bays. Spiral staircases for self-assembly much more difficult (). In addition, production necessary calculations has its own specifics for them.

Features of calculating staircase parameters

The following are given general recommendations, which it is only advisable to focus on when designing internal stairs. Since all houses (and premises) differ in architecture, dimensions, and layout, there cannot be any single template in principle.

Steepness

The optimal slope of spans is in the range from 35 to 450. More than steep stairs it is much more difficult to climb (especially for people with limited mobility, the elderly or small children). And carrying large, heavy items from floor to floor will also become more difficult.

A flatter design is inconvenient because it will require more space for its installation, since the length of each span will increase. And what specific angle to choose is at the discretion of the owner.

Width

It is unlikely that anyone in a private house will move from floor to floor as part of a “group of comrades”, so when drawing up a diagram it is advisable to focus on the dimensions of one person. A staircase with a width of about 1.2 - 1.5 m for a private house is a completely acceptable option. And walking on it, and even carrying pieces of furniture will be quite convenient.

Step parameters

• Tread. It should completely fit a person’s foot (based on size 45), so optimal width steps - within 250 - 300 mm.
• Riser. In order to make it convenient for people of any height and age to move, its height is taken within the range of 150 - 200 mm. Quite sufficient, regardless of design.

Note! All specified dimensions are absolutely the same for each step of one staircase. Otherwise, there is no need to talk about ease of movement.

Stair height

It is defined as the distance from the floor covering of the lower floor to the ceiling + the thickness of the ceiling. For example, 270 + 40 – 310 (cm).

Number of steps

The height of the structure (310) is divided into the sum of the riser size and the thickness of the tread board, after which it is rounded to a whole value (in big side). For example, if a “magpie” is used, then 20 + 4 = 24 cm.

Total – 310: 24 = 13 (steps).

Recommendation: for stairs with more than 18 steps and a steepness of 450, special platforms should be installed. Depending on their purpose, they are called differently - rotary, viewing, intermediate. Consequently, the staircase itself will already consist of separate flights (flights). They can be of the same type, or made according to different patterns, since the site is not necessarily located exactly in the center of the structure.

Stair length

It is not difficult to determine, knowing the number of steps and the size of each tread. These values ​​are multiplied. If the steps have protrusions, they are not taken into account.

Sometimes calculations show that such a design “does not fit” in a particular room. In such cases, either the number of marches is increased, or so-called winder (turning) steps are installed.

Winder steps— top view

Span height relative to floor

It is necessary to focus on human height + a small margin. The optimal design is considered to be one in which the distance between the outer steps and the ceiling is at least 2 m. Otherwise, a tall person will have to bow his head at the end of the flight.

Materials

In most cases, the type of wood chosen is pine. It is inexpensive, but it is not characterized by durability. Larch is in many ways preferable. The presence of a special resin in its structure makes the material even stronger when absorbing moisture. And this is important for a home staircase, given the specifics of its operation. All other options, for example, oak, cedar, maple and a number of others cannot be called budget.

Before you start working with wood, it must be thoroughly dried. Further shrinkage of the material (including twisting) will lead to the ladder literally falling apart.

Work procedure for installing stairs

Let's take a closer look simple example- single-flight stairs. This option can be considered basic, since the algorithm of actions is the same, regardless of the number of spans.

Preparation of structural elements

• Stringers. The main requirement is that they must be absolutely identical. The board is only solid, without defects, no less than “forty”. Accordingly, cuts are made in advance for the steps.
• Steps. The edges must be rounded, as sharp edges increase the risk of injury. The board chosen is absolutely flat, carefully processed (polished). The length is calculated so that their edges protrude beyond the stringers by no more than 2 - 4 cm. Thickness - in the range of 300 - 400 mm.
• Risers. They do not experience significant load, since it falls mainly on the support beams. In order not to increase the total weight of the span, a board of 15 is enough for them.

Advice - for a private house it is better not to install risers, since cleaning a staircase of this (closed) type is much more difficult.

• Handrails, balusters. It is unlikely to be possible to make them yourself so that the staircase becomes not only a means of transportation, but also a decoration of the house. Therefore, these structural elements should either be purchased in a store or ordered from a workshop.

Assembling the stairs

Wall marking

In accordance with the installation diagram and drawing.

Fastening support beams (stringers)

The upper part of the march is fixed in different ways (whatever is more convenient). Option No. 1 - cuts are made in the floor beam. Option No. 2 - metal stops are used, which are secured to the beam with anchors. In any case, the connection point between the structural elements should be as reliable as possible.

To secure the bottom of the stringers, a support beam is mounted on the floor. To the wall - fixation on.

Installation of risers

If they are mounted, they are screwed to the stringers.

Laying steps

They are fixed both on the support beams and on the risers (at least at one point, in the center).

For ease of operation, the installation of steps begins from the bottom. The options are shown in the diagram.

Installation of balusters

First of all, the extreme ones are fixed - at the top and bottom of the march. A “string” is stretched between them, focusing on which, you can mount the remaining racks.

Installation of handrails

They are fixed on each of the racks, which are located on the march. They can be made from almost any material - metal, plastic, not just wood.

Processing

The article outlines only the general procedure and provides basic recommendations. Having decided on a specific staircase design, you should study all available material on this topic, since for different models there are some nuances of both installation and calculations of individual components. For example, turning steps, which can be either rectangular or segmented.

You can watch the video instructions for making a wooden staircase:

But the general operating regulations are described in detail, and the author hopes that this article will help the reader in the matter of independent construction. Good luck!