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Assembling scaffolding from boards. How and from what you can make scaffolding with your own hands. Types of homemade scaffolding made from metal pipes

Building a house is a responsible undertaking that requires a thoughtful approach, materials, tools and equipment. It is among the latter that we can count scaffolding. These structures serve to make it possible to do finishing work at high altitudes.

Scaffolding allows the following work to be carried out at a height of 4 to 10 meters:

• hem the gables,
• make siding,
• install a drain and so on.

In reality, finishing works more than enough. Moreover, scaffolding can be made higher than 10 meters, but there is one thing, such a design requires industrial capacity and appropriate engineering knowledge. It is unlikely that you will be able to do it yourself in accordance with all standards.

Attention ! You must be aware that working on scaffolding involves risk. Therefore, their strength should not be doubted.

Many people decide to make scaffolding with their own hands because renting them is still a very expensive pleasure. Moreover, you have to pay a lot for delivery. Taking into account the fact that finishing work can last about several months, it is more profitable to build the structure yourself.

Choosing material

In principle, there are only two alternatives. You can make your own scaffolding from metal or wood. Moreover, each option has both its pros and cons.

Let's take as an example metal scaffolding. Making them with your own hands is not so easy. Moreover, this requires special equipment and materials that will most likely have to be purchased. But at the same time, a structure of this type has simply incredible stability and service life. It allows you to do the most complex work at considerable heights.

Advice ! After completing the work, metal scaffolding can be rented out. As a last resort, you can unwind them and put them in the garage.

If we rely on the experience of people who have encountered this issue, then the majority is inclined to believe that metal scaffolding can only be made if you have the necessary metal. The purchase turns out to be quite expensive. But if you want to make a business out of it, the costs must be worth it.

Making wooden scaffolding with your own hands is quite simple. In addition, after use they can be easily disassembled, and the boards, for example, can be burned in a fireplace or stove. In fact, it is a disposable building that is destroyed after one cycle of operation or given to a neighbor.

Of course, in terms of reliability, wooden scaffolding, which you can make with your own hands, is several times inferior to its metal counterpart. But they cost practically nothing. Moreover, on every summer cottage can be found suitable materials. Your main tools in this context will be a hammer and nails.

Main disadvantage wooden scaffolding This is their low strength and low stability. Of course, if everything is done well, then this design can be used. That's why it's so important to follow the instructions exactly.

Attention ! Do-it-yourself wooden scaffolding is quite difficult to preserve, since untreated wood easily rots.

Plastic - reality or fiction

Nowadays, more and more often, non-construction forums can see entire topics dedicated to plastic scaffolding. Of course, they exist and have many important advantages over wooden and metal products. But it’s not possible to make them industrial conditions is not yet possible.

Attention ! Of course, if you have a 3-D printer, you can make your own plastic scaffolding.

Construction of different types of structures

Making wooden scaffolding

This is the simplest design that you can make with your own hands in just a day. In order to ultimately obtain a durable and reliable structure just follow this instruction:

1. Take a board six meters long and place it against the wall.
2. Place a second board in parallel.
3. Fasten them together with crossbars. Make the second support in the same way.
4. Lay the flooring.
5. To ensure increased rigidity, use brace boards. Use the ground as a support.
6. Increase level by level until you reach a sufficient height.

As you can see, making wooden scaffolding with your own hands is not that difficult, but there are many nuances that must be dealt with. Otherwise, the structure may not last for several days.

It is very important to make spans of optimal dimensions for the structure. The canon is considered to be a distance of two meters between risers. If necessary, it can be increased to two and a half. The width of the flooring is exactly one meter.

Another important nuance during construction scaffolding is what fasteners use. Usually there are only two options: nails and screws. It is worth recognizing that both have their pros and cons.

Let's take self-tapping screws, for example. At first glance, these are ideal fasteners for making scaffolding with your own hands. But not everything is so simple. Their main disadvantage is excessive fragility.

Also, self-tapping screws, with which you can make scaffolding with your own hands, are quite susceptible to shock loads. Their cap just flies off. Naturally, this may entail complete destruction designs.

That's why the best option In order to make scaffolding with your own hands you will need nails. Moreover, it is best to use 120 mm products. For better fixation, their tips are bent.

The main reason for the fragility of self-tapping screws is that they are made of hardened metal. This is why they often break under heavy loads. Nails are a completely different matter. They are based on soft metal. It may bend, but not break. That is why, if you want to make scaffolding with your own hands, it is best to use them.

Unfortunately, despite their undeniable advantages, nails are not ideal. The main disadvantage of these fastening elements is that it will not be possible to carefully disassemble the structure. You'll have to break it. Naturally, the product cannot be used a second time.

Poet experienced builders I recommend it to all those who decide to make scaffolding with their own hands basic version fasten with self-tapping screws, and secure the final one with nails.

We make metal scaffolding with our own hands

First, we need to give one important clarification. In this option, the main structure is made of metal and the decking is made of wood. This optimal combination, allowing to achieve high performance qualities.

Attention ! Do-it-yourself scaffolding is not made exclusively from metal.

Aluminum can be used as a metal for the frame. It is lightweight, so installation should not be difficult. However, it is not able to withstand too much load and this must be taken into account. It is best for each span to have the following parameters:

• width - 100 cm;
• height - 150 cm;
• length from 165 to 200 cm.

This is the canon that will provide the building created with your own hands with the necessary stability.

When creating a structure made of metal, you need to prepare properly, since the quality of materials is of particular importance here, you will need:

• square profile,
• pipes for spacers,
• profile for connecting inserts,
• flooring boards,
• ladder,
• connecting elements.

Naturally, you won’t be able to limit yourself to materials alone; to create the intended project with your own hands, you will also need a number of tools, including:

• hacksaw for metal,
• drill,
• Bulgarian,
• welding machine.

With this toolkit you can build a metal auxiliary device with your own hands.

The construction of scaffolding with your own hands begins with compacting the earth where the product will stand. This will ensure increased reliability of the entire structure. Moreover, it wouldn’t hurt to make a drainage system.

Attention ! Drainage is necessary element, if the finishing of facades will last for a long period of time.

Where the supports will stand, you must lay the boards with your own hands. This will provide greater stability. In this case, no precaution will be superfluous, since the slightest play can lead to the scaffolding being destroyed, and you will not be able to do anything.

To make scaffolding from profile pipe do it yourself, follow this algorithm:

To protect scaffolding from corrosion, you need to do protective coating. All you need is anti-corrosion liquid and special paint.

Results

You can make scaffolding with your own hands. The complexity of the design directly depends on the material you choose; for example, plastic structures can only be made in industrial production. The most simple option is a wooden structure.

How to make scaffolding with your own hands - photos, videos. During construction, renovation work and maintenance of a private home, you sometimes have to work at heights. Using regular ladder It is not always convenient to carry out work, and sometimes it is completely impossible.

The way out of this situation is to build scaffolding yourself.

General information

Scaffolding made of metal will be many times more reliable and durable, but often such structures are made of wood, since it is cheaper. Anyone can work with wood, and all you need are nails or screws, a saw, a screwdriver, a hammer or. As you can see, the set of tools is small and can be found in everyone’s home, and if something is missing, you can buy it the right tool it won't cost a lot of money.

Metal is more difficult in this regard. To make metal scaffolding with your own hands, you will need a certain skill, as well as a welding machine and at least a basic understanding of how to weld seams correctly. It is for this reason that in 85% of cases scaffolding is made of wood.

Materials

It is clear that scaffolding (scaffolding) is needed for a short period of time, but production requires the use of wood high quality and with a minimum number of knots. Some builders recommend making scaffolding from spruce wood, since, unlike pine, its knots are located singly and have almost no effect on the final strength of the board. But almost no one has spruce boards, but there are more than enough pine boards.

You can also make scaffolding from them, but before that you will need to check the material very carefully (at least those boards that go on the flooring and racks). To do this, you need to stack two columns (3-4 bricks on top of each other, 2 building blocks, 2 boulders and more).

When checking boards that are 3 meters long, there should be a distance of 2.5 meters between them. They lay a board on the posts, and then stand in the middle and jump on it. If the board has weak spots, it will crack or even break. If it survives, you can use it.

Now about the thickness. The thickness of the scaffolding boards should be chosen based on the structure, the distance between the posts and the expected load. The only thing that should be noted is that for flooring and racks, boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm are most often used, and for jib boards with a thickness of 2.5-3 cm. Such boards can also be used after dismantling the scaffolding in construction work oh, if you can avoid damaging it during disassembly.

Self-tapping screws or nails

Probably, even in 100 years there will be debate about which is better - nails or self-tapping screws, but in this particular case everything is aggravated by the fact that the work will be carried out at heights and therefore the structure must be reliable. In this case the nails will the best option. The fact is that they are made of soft metal and under load they can bend, but not break.

In contrast, self-tapping screws are made of hardened steel, which is brittle and will simply break under shock or variable loads. This is critical for scaffolding because there are cases where it has broken. But we were talking about “black” screws. There are also yellow-green anodized ones, which are not so fragile and can withstand loads.

If you're really concerned about durability, it's best to use nails to make your own scaffolding. But they are not liked because at the end of the work it is impossible to disassemble the joint without loss and quickly, since the wood will be damaged.

At independent work do this - assemble everything on anodized screws. If the design turns out to be correct and convenient, play it safe by driving a couple of nails into each connection. To ensure that the wood is not damaged in the future, you can put cuttings of thin boards under the nails, and over a long span you can use whole boards, but with a small thickness. When disassembling, you can split them and remove the nails easily.

Design features

For various types The work will require different types of scaffolding and scaffolding. To work with light weight materials, you do not need a high bearing capacity. In this case, you can make an attached scaffold or an envelope-shaped structure. For finishing gables or just exterior decoration In a one-story low house, it is permissible to use construction trestles, and flooring is laid on their crossbars. If you can't support anything on the walls, you can use a trestle with decking boards laid on the crossbars.

For styling brick walls or building blocks, finishing the facade with stone or brick will require full-fledged scaffolding. Timber scaffolding can be made more rigid by using braces and stops.

As a rule, such structures are not attached to the walls, but are fixed on stops that will support the racks. Let's talk about each type separately.

Attached scaffolding

The design got its name due to the fact that they are simply leaned against, and not fastened. They are held in place by a stop. The more you load this scaffolding, the stronger it will stand. There are two types of construction, which are made in the shape of the letter “L”, but they are turned in different directions.

In the first picture, reliable and simple design scaffolding Their only drawback is that they cannot be adjusted in height. It will be convenient to hem the roof overhang, clean or install a drain, in general, all work that does not have a large variation in height. Some were even able to adapt such scaffolding for building a house from timber. It will be convenient to lift or roll logs along the edges of the stops. They are quite reliable, as they can support a log of 11 meters and three people in addition.

The second picture shows Armenian scaffolding or envelope scaffolding. This design is also reliable and simple, although you wouldn’t be able to tell at first glance. But still this has been tested by thousands of people who have used them in construction. This is attractive because a minimum amount of building materials is required, and assembly/disassembly/transportation can be done in a few minutes. The main thing is to make the triangles, and installation at the desired height will not take much time - raise the triangles, support them with a beam, which then needs to be fixed in the ground.

To make the triangles, use a board with a thickness of 4-5 cm and a width of 10-15 cm. The vertical part can be long so that it is convenient to lift the scaffolding to the required height. The crossbar on top should be 0.8 to 1 meter long, and the flooring boards will be laid on it. They will also be 5 cm thick, and the wider the larger, the better, preferably 15 cm.

When making corners, position the joint so that the horizontal board is on top. To increase reliability, use metal linings in the form of a corner. But if you install the corner using three nailed on both sides, this is not necessary. Triangles are installed for every meter. If it works, they are nailed to, and if not, all hope is for gravity. The main load in this design goes to the thrust board, which is placed at an angle and it rests with one end on the ground and the other on top part triangle.

The stops must be made of timber or boards with a thickness of at least 5 cm, pipes of at least 7.6 cm in diameter or cross-section (for profiled pipes, at least 5*4 cm). When installing the stop, it should be placed exactly in the corner, driven into the ground, additionally secured and driven in wedges. To eliminate the risk of lateral shift, the installed stops should be secured with several jibs, which will connect everything into a rigid and strong structure. For jibs, you can use an unedged board, if you have one, the main thing is that the width and thickness parameters are not less than the minimum limit.

If you need to grow the thrust boards (so that they are more than 6 meters in length), you should make an additional stop. It will rest against the middle of the base and thereby relieve part of the load. Now about the flooring of scaffolding with your own hands. It needs to be made from a wide board with a thickness of 4-5 cm. In this case, you need to fix them to the triangles, at least with self-tapping screws. This design does not provide for the installation of railings, and the slightest vibrations under your feet will cause discomfort, so it is highly advisable to take care of fixation.

Drawings and photos

The described options are good if heavy materials are not intended to be used. It is not always possible to support the structure on the wall, and then full-fledged scaffolding will be needed. In general, the design is not complicated, but it also requires a sufficient amount of wood.

For the arrangement you will need boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm and first we begin to assemble the racks. These will be two thick boards or vertical beams, which are fastened with crossbars. The size of the crossbars should be from 0.8 to 1 meter. Make them based on the fact that a more or less convenient flooring width starts from 0.65 meters. But still, you will feel more confident on a flooring 0.8 meters wide. In order to give the structure stability on the sides, you can make racks that will taper towards the top.

To prevent the scaffolding from falling onto the wall, the crossbars should be made with an outlet of 25 cm. They will prevent the structure from collapsing. The racks are placed at a distance of 150-250 cm from each other. The span depends on how thick the boards you will use to make the deck are to prevent them from sagging. The installed racks at the required distance should be fastened with bevels to each other. This way they will prevent the structure from folding to one side. The more jibs and cross members you make, the more reliable the structure will be.

Also, to prevent self-made scaffolding from falling, it should be supported with timber or boards, one end should be nailed to the posts with nails, and the other should be buried in the ground. Cross beams will not allow the structure to fold on its side, but there is a possibility that without securing the scaffolding will fall forward. To avoid this, the beams should be supported with jibs.

If the height of the scaffolding is 3 meters, there is no need to support it, but if the work will be carried out at the level of the second or even third floor, such fixation is necessary. You should also make a railing if the work will be carried out at high altitudes. For this, it is permissible to use not very thick boards, but the main condition is that they should not have cracks or knots. Handrails will give you confidence during construction.

A standard 6 meters is enough to reach the ceiling level of the second floor. But such scaffolding is inconvenient because it has to be completely disassembled if there is a need to move the structure to another. You can assemble scaffolding from strong old boards. Sometimes pipes or poles are used to make stops and braces - whatever is found on the farm.

Construction trestles

There is another simple way to make mobile lightweight scaffolding with your own hands - make identical trestles onto which crossbars are placed at a certain pitch, which will serve as both a ladder and a support for the flooring. Flooring boards should be laid on the cross members. This option is good because it is ideal for cladding a house. The sheathing will take place from the bottom up and the height will need to be changed all the time, and there is no way to lean or attach the structure to the wall. For this reason, construction trestles are the best option.

Sometimes they make one stand on one side vertical and without tilt. This will make it possible to install them closer to the wall, and then the flooring will be located conveniently for work. This great option when painting, caulking and preventative treatment.

Types and components of metal scaffolding

When constructing a stone house, or a building made from building blocks, do-it-yourself metal scaffolding is more suitable. They can withstand any load. Their popularity is less than that of wooden structures, as they are more expensive. The second decisive point is the dismantling of the wooden scaffolding, since the boards can then be used, and the metal parts will gather dust in the barn.

But metal scaffolding also has many advantages. When disassembled, they will not take up much space. From time to time, owners of private houses still need them - to care for a log house, for example, which means they will definitely be needed once every 2-3 years. In this regard metal structure It will be more practical than wood, as it is easier to assemble and stronger.

All metal scaffolding has the same shape of vertical layers, which are connected by slopes and crossbars.

Only the method of fastening between them will differ:

All you have to do is choose one of the types, and the type of work you are going to do will help you decide. When making metal scaffolding with your own hands, pin scaffolding is most often used. They are the easiest to implement, but they are not good only for

From this article you will learn how to properly assemble wooden scaffolding with your own hands - prepared for you step by step instructions. The article will talk about the requirements for individual elements and the design in general. You will also learn about additional devices for working at height.

Scaffolding is a temporary or permanent system of supports and ladders that is used for lifting and working at heights. They are subject to increased requirements for strength, stability and safety, since working at a height of more than 1.5 m is hazardous.

Regardless of the material and design principle, the following general requirements are imposed on scaffolding:

1. Reliability. The system of elements must be able to withstand the weight of workers and material in motion.
2. Manufacturability. Implies ease of assembly/disassembly of the entire structure. This job should be handled by a handyman or entry-level specialist.
3. Economy. The design must contain an acceptable minimum of elements, but at the same time be stable and reliable.
4. Utility. For inventory scaffolding, it is possible to reuse the structure and individual elements as much as possible. For wooden ones, it is possible to reuse the material after disassembly for other purposes without significant loss of quality.

Inventory scaffolding is a professional and expensive product. Buy them for home use unprofitable, only rent is possible for a large amount of work (for example, on the facade of a house). As a rule, in private construction it is customary to erect conditionally disposable scaffolding that exactly matches the structure of the building.

Standard wooden scaffolding

The design of these scaffoldings came to us from the Middle Ages. The principle of forming the frame and connecting parts has not changed since then. Only the fasteners themselves have improved. They deserve special attention.

Basic elements of wooden scaffolding

1 - racks; 2 - transverse; 3 - flooring; 4 - braces; 5 - stabilizing slopes

Racks. Vertical supports made of edged boards good quality. They take the normal (according to the gravity vector) load from the entire structure and transfer it to the base (soil). Requirements for racks:

1. Edged boards of the 1st grade of any species.
2. The thickness of the board is at least 30 mm, the width is at least 100 mm.
3. Mechanical integrity of each individual element. The board should not be burst, broken, rotten, crooked, of variable cross-section, with excess wane or holes.
4. The board should not be affected by insects.

Particular attention must be paid to the vertical splice of the racks. The elements must be connected end-to-end, not overlay, and clamped on both sides.

Cross members. They take the load from the flooring and transfer it to the racks. The requirements for them are similar to those for racks. One additional requirement: It is unacceptable to use spliced ​​crossbars without additional support.

Flooring. Cross ladders that transfer the load from people and materials to the cross members. Can be made from edged or unedged boards, and also be combined - guides from the board, on top sheet material. Continuous flooring and a run-up are allowed.

Braces. Diagonal braces connecting the posts different rows. The use of slats and slabs is allowed. It is advisable to install braces maximum length to connect the largest number of racks.

Slopes. Diagonal stops that support the structure to prevent deviation from the wall. Usually a 25 mm board is used.

Rules for the construction of wooden scaffolding

There is a set general rules, following which you can assemble a reliable and safe design. These rules are derived from safety requirements and the work experience of high-altitude craftsmen:

1. The foundation must be reliable. If there is loose earth or sand under your feet, make wooden platforms to support the racks.
2. The width of the passage between the racks is at least 500 mm.
3. Each node has at least 3 attachment points. For multi-point fastening - a step of 50-70 mm in a checkerboard pattern.
4. Use powerful screws (at least 4.2 mm). In case of assembly on nails (100 mm), bend them from the reverse side.
5. Always install handrails with inside racks.
6. Apply front board(fencing near the deck).
7. The racks at the junction must be trimmed.
8. The pitch of the racks is from 1 to 2 m, minimum thickness flooring 25 mm.

Scaffolding assembly

To create wooden structure scaffolding you will need a minimum of tools: a saw, a hammer with nails and a tape measure.

Operating procedure:

1. The length of the working space should be divided by the optimal pitch (1.5 m) and the number of racks should be obtained.
2. We assemble an “envelope” - a frame of racks and crossbars. To do this, lay out two boards in parallel and measure the height of the tier. We sew them together in this place with a crossbar.

Attention! The angle between the post and the cross member should be 90°. Distortions can deform the frame under load.

1. We sew the frame with a brace.
2. We prepare required quantity"envelopes".
3. Install two “envelopes” vertically, in the design position. Sew them with a diagonal at maximum height so that they stand without support.
4. Set the number of envelopes according to the length of the flooring board so that its edges fall on the crossbars.
5. Place the flooring board onto the crossbars and secure. Strengthen the bracing with braces.
6. Secure the decking on top with self-tapping screws or nails.
7. Install the remaining “envelopes” and flooring in the same way.

Attention! Never, under any circumstances, splice decking between supports! The joint of boards or sheets of flooring must be on the crossbar!

1. Install the handrail and front board.
2. If possible, tie the structure to the wall.
3. If the height is more than 2 tiers and it is necessary to build up the racks, you should first install the slopes. To do this, you need to tie the racks at the bottom with a horizontal board of maximum length. Then tie the edge of this board to the top of the rack - you get a reliable triangular stop.

Scaffolding is dismantled in the reverse order - dismantling the flooring, crossbars, extended racks, slopes and envelopes. Disassembly must be carried out by qualified and experienced carpenters.

Devices for constructing wooden scaffolding

Steel cross member - bracket

This element significantly simplifies installation, allowing you to quickly change the level of the flooring. Such a device must correspond to the cross-section of the board.

Triangular bracket

Such a bracket can be wooden or steel. Allows you to attach the scaffold directly to the wall. To construct a flooring based on it, a few boards for the ladder are enough. But at the same time, to rearrange it, you have to dismantle it. Installing anything from the bottom up is impossible. Most dangerous look high-rise scaffolding. The work requires special skill and caution.

Bricklayer's express scaffolding

They are created from pallets on which bricks are delivered. As a rule, rafter boards are used for flooring. It does not require sawing of the material, and is quite reliable if you do not make spans of more than 1.5 m.

Bricklayer's scaffolding on video

Whatever type of scaffolding or scaffolding you choose, remember that your life and health are in your hands. Saving one board or 10 minutes of time to strengthen can result in unpleasant and sometimes serious consequences.

Scaffolding is a temporary engineering structure, intended for access to a facility under construction, placement building material, utility equipment and tools. After completion of work at the site, these structures must be dismantled.

Structurally, scaffolding is usually made in the form of multi-tiered buildings, consisting of levels built up in stages with connecting stairs and special fences. In addition, scaffolding can be used when carrying out major repairs and finishing works in low-rise construction in conditions where the use of special high-rise equipment is impractical.

As an example, we can cite cases of using scaffolding when working on masonry and plastering walls of a small country house, which ensures compliance with all safety requirements stipulated by regulations.

Scaffolding used during construction activities may differ markedly in its design. And if you are wondering how to make scaffolding yourself, then first of all you should familiarize yourself with some of the most common designs today. Forests in general case there are:

• pin;
• wedge;
• framed;
• clamp

The following can be said about the advantages and disadvantages of this or that type of forest.

Pin-type scaffolding is characterized by a very high speed of assembly and disassembly. Wedge forests guarantee builders the ability to “hold” large workloads. Frame-type scaffolding is unique due to its low weight. Clamp scaffolding is not entirely practical and, as a rule, is used only when working on fairly complex objects and is often of an individual nature.

The practice of renting scaffolding from specialized companies with subsequent independent delivery and installation on site (included, by the way, in the cost of the order) is quite reasonable, since it significantly simplifies all procedures for installing and dismantling this building structure.

The rationality of this method of organizing construction work is also explained by the fact that the time savings from this event are very sensitive. And in a certain situation this can be decisive for the timely completion of the work being carried out.

If you decide to build scaffolding with your own hands, then you need to know that the constructed on our own scaffolding must be manufactured in accordance with current regulations or instructions from their manufacturers.

The fact is that the apparent simplicity of scaffolding design is very deceptive in appearance, and the slightest deviation from the standardized indicators can lead to a loss of their rigidity and stability. As an example, it can be noted that a small “under-turn” threaded connections or the presence of slight play in the joint, as well as insufficiently tight fit of the surfaces at the contact points, can to a certain extent affect the stability of the entire structure as a whole.

Despite the importance and responsibility of scaffolding work procedures, they are nevertheless not considered very complex structures. In case you decide to build your own country house– the option of making scaffolding on your own is quite suitable for you. According to current building regulations construction of scaffolding from timber and boards for own construction permitted if there are no more than two tiers (two meters high).

In this case, the sequence of operations for one of the known scaffolding assembly options usually looks like this.

1. For the manufacture of vertical racks it is taken construction timber 10x10cm; Moreover, to increase stability, these racks should converge slightly at the top.
2. Cross members made of 4cm boards are attached to the posts, forming support platforms distributed around the perimeter of the square, onto which the flooring is subsequently laid.
3. The floor “floors” of each of the tiers, as well as the crosspieces that increase the overall rigidity of the structure, are usually made from slabs, which always remain after dismantling the foundation formwork.
4. At the end of the structure you can place steps mounted on screws or long self-tapping screws.

Such a design is not designed for heavy loads - that’s why you should not allow such homemade scaffolding more than 2 people and load them with too heavy material (bags of cement and bricks).

For large construction loads, it is best to use special scaffolding constructed on the basis of metal pipes and assembled like a construction set (although you will need a lot of time to assemble them).

Another version of the scaffolding design involves the use of the same racks, but already made of 50x100mm boards, and the distances between the racks, depending on the size of the object, can range from 2 to 2.5 meters. Such scaffolding is designed for a total width of at least 1 meter, otherwise it will be inconvenient to work on them. The vertical posts are connected to each other “crosswise” using thinner boards (25-30mm). The structure is fastened using nails measuring 100-120mm.

At the height you need, jumpers from the “fifty” are attached, and already on the latter, flooring from the same boards is laid and firmly nailed to them. On the outside of the scaffolding, it is necessary to install a board that acts as a fence. If necessary, a second tier is constructed, located above the first flooring and equipped with the same fencing board.

Particular attention should be paid to the arrangement of stops, with the help of which the entire structure is fixed (pressed) to the structure being erected towards the wall. This is achieved by reliable fastening racks to the walls of the structure being built using additional boards or installation of special inclined stops.

If all these conditions are met, you can safely carry out any construction and renovation work on your site.

Even a one-story residential building or outbuilding difficult to build without platforms or scaffolding. Some kind of elevation is still needed and it would be absolutely correct if it were good scaffolding. They will ensure safety on the construction site and high speed of work, not to mention the convenience of foremen and helpers. It’s not always profitable to rent, much less buy, spatial structures for construction, so let’s try to save money.

What are they and why are they needed?

Building scaffolding with your own hands will not pose any difficulties, but they can solve a lot of issues related to the construction of walls, roofing, and façade finishing. The price of metal scaffolding is about 200 rubles per square meter. On the one hand, not so much, but on the other hand, why buy if home-made ones are three times cheaper in cost, and no worse in quality and functionality, if you adhere to certain rules and regulations.

The main task of scaffolding is to provide the ability to work at a certain height. In this case, safety and convenience are considered first. Regardless of the design and height, or the material, scaffolding must be equipped with either handrails or mesh, be easy to install and compact during storage and transportation. There is no need to reinvent the bicycle, everything has already been invented before us and is described in GOSTs and standards.

Parameters and characteristics of wooden and metal structures

Before choosing a material for scaffolding, you need to decide on its size, taking into account the requirements building codes. They are worth observing, if only for the reason that, first of all, they are designed to take care of our safety. First of all, before the actual construction of the structure, a drawing is made taking into account the following parameters:

• the maximum height of the spatial structure should not exceed six meters;
• any scaffolding rests on posts, the distance between which must be at least two meters;
• the working space, regardless of height, must be at least a meter wide; this is necessary both for ease of work and to prevent tools and materials from falling.

The following options are considered to help avoid extra costs material. For example, from an ergonomic point of view, it is most convenient to work when the working area is 40 cm below the thoracic region. Therefore, it is at this distance that the lowest platform should be installed. The second level platform is located at a height of 175 to 200 cm from the level of the first platform. It is also worth considering a system of braces or fixing to the wall, which will prevent the structure from moving away from the surface being treated. Now, armed general parameters and having drawn up the drawing, we begin to assemble the scaffolding from wood or metal.

Collecting metal scaffolding

Frame metal structure with wooden flooring- this is what you need for private construction. Such scaffolding is cheaper than clamp scaffolding, more expensive than wooden scaffolding, but is stronger and can be used many times. Framed metal scaffolding consists of sections 2x2x1 m. Dimensions can be changed according to permissible limits, which we have already talked about. To assemble the scaffolding you will need the following materials:

• pipe 30 mm;
• pipe 15 mm;
• sorokovka edged board;
• attached assembly ladder;
• threaded fasteners;
• grinder, drill, welding, building level and the simplest metalworking tool.

Installation of metal scaffolding is carried out in several stages:

• Making spacers from 15 mm pipe. A spacer made of a thinner pipe will help maintain the rigidity of the structure without making it too heavy. Transverse (horizontal) struts must be at least a meter long, and diagonal ones - 2 m. The cut pipes are flattened at both ends, after which a hole is drilled in the deformed ends corresponding to the diameter of the hardware.
• Manufacturing of adapters. In order to be able to increase the height of the vertical supports, it is necessary to make adapters that will be inserted into the racks and the continuation of the vertical rack will be placed on them. The number of adapters is calculated depending on the height of the scaffolding. For their manufacture, a 25x25 mm profile is used, the length is about 300 mm; for fixing, a coupling 6-8 cm long from a 30x30 profile is put on the adapter.

Assembling the frame and flooring

1. Each vertical stand connected by horizontal jumpers, which are welded every 30-35 cm.
2. To the bottom ends support posts support plates are welded in the form of a square with a side of 70-80 mm so that the structure does not fall into the ground.
3. Every two racks are installed vertically strictly according to a plumb line or level. Diagonal struts are fitted to them. A marker marks the drilling locations. Drill holes in the spacers and in the racks for the bolt.
4. From boards 40 mm thick, boards are assembled along the length of the section, knocked down on the back side and reinforced so that there is no deflection.
5. Along the edges of the flooring, a U-shaped profile is fixed with self-tapping screws to the size of the cross member on a vertical stand.
6. The laid flooring will be fixed with a U-shaped profile, which will prevent the shield from moving.

Now all that remains is to treat the new scaffolding with an anti-corrosion compound, primer and, if desired, paint it. The structure is completely ready for use. Happy construction everyone!