Assembly of metal scaffolding diagram. What types of scaffolding are there and how to make them yourself. Making wooden scaffolding
Hello dear Semenych! I've been building a house for 3 years now, and finally it came to covering it with siding. A problem arose in the scaffolding. Question: How to act more rationally and profitably? Rent scaffolding? To put together - how exactly?
Evgeniy, Gorno-Altaisk.
Hello, Evgeniy from Gorno-Altaisk!
Judging by the image of the photo and the inscription, you belong to the category of those who delved into my entrails three times. To avoid giving your colleagues the pleasure of doing the same to you, take scaffolding seriously.
With our construction teams (which change almost every year, including due to natural decline), when installing siding on the walls and gables of houses, we use both scaffolding and simply ladders.
Aluminum folding and retractable stairs are preferable, allowing their use at heights from the beginning of the second floor to 18 meters. At least I haven’t seen a longer one on sale. The presence of a crossbar at the upper end of such stairs is enough to prevent the siding from being pushed through when they rest on it. True, traces of metal remain on light-colored sidings and then have to be washed off with solvents and shampoos.
Wooden stairs, with their lengths of more than 6 meters, are a bit heavy, you get tired of moving them, and even if they rest on the installed siding, and this happens, they can push through it.
In any case, if it is necessary to install siding at a height of more than 6 - 7 meters, wooden stairs, as a rule, are not used. Yes and aluminum stairs do not at all contribute to productive work, since they often have to go down to the sinful earth for the necessary material. Even if there are assistants on it feeding sheets of siding.
When it is not possible to have your own scaffolding (there is nowhere to store it, or bad people stole it right from a facility under construction), then you have to borrow it from colleagues for a while or rent it from organizations that do business with it.
In our area, one day of renting a minimum amount of scaffolding, sufficient for a more or less tolerable installation of siding, costs from 800 - 1000 rubles per day.
The most popular scaffolding is old Soviet-made from steel pipes a couple of meters long (transverse), 3 - 4 meters (racks) and a diameter of about 60 millimeters. The advantage lies in their reliability and durability. The disadvantage is the heaviness.
Nowadays, steel ones are more in use, but with a diameter of about 40 millimeters, and aluminum analogues are somewhat less common. All possible lengths and mounting methods. Advantage: lightweight, quick to install. The disadvantage is that it is less reliable than Soviet-made ones.
Even less common are aluminum scaffoldings with two ten-meter stand-sets and a six-meter platform (half a meter wide), which is raised with the help of manual winch. You sit down on such a platform, turn the handle and, like Baron Munchausen, you lift yourself up.
About five years ago, with the help of such forests, installation work in one research institute.
Crowds of designers looked with undisguised interest original design. However, you can hardly rent such forests.
With sufficient experience in installing siding, and this is acquired in the process, two or three people one-story house dimensions 6/6 meters and with mansard gables sheathed in 2 - 3, maximum 4 days.
It’s best to work with three people, when two people install all the siding elements, and one person uses a grinder to cut the plastic to size and feed it.
To optimize labor costs in terms of time and in the absence of scaffolding, we use ladders, supplementing them with construction trestles and scaffolds. We fasten them well to the ground, we place ladders on them with the emphasis on padded bars. For insurance, we screw them with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver ( great thing! I recommend). Or we attach it with wire/rope/.
We make goats with a height of 1 to 2 meters, no more, otherwise the whole town will shake.
Sometimes we do the following - we install siding from stairs (and trestles /emphasis on the first syllable! otherwise you might think.../) to the fullest possible height. And only then we rent scaffolding. Then their payment is made in less time.
But more often we take scaffolding from colleagues we know; today they give it to us, and tomorrow we help them with something.
One of my friends, though unlike you, is a neurosurgeon, does not take bribes or greyhounds, and when the need arose, his grateful patients simply got him the forest for a while. And OBEP will not find fault.
In my opinion, it is not rational to put together scaffolding purely for the installation of siding. Moreover, if you install them along the entire length of the wall of the house (that is, at least 6 meters). You'll waste a lot of time, and you'll need a lot of material. It’s good if this material can be used somewhere else later. And due to its bulkiness, it is difficult to carry scaffolding around the perimeter of the house. Less, but rather more is necessary, as four men cannot do it. It will have to be partially dismantled.
Although the taste and color... No later than today, I saw a neighbor in the garden who built one of the 6 meter boards similar. True, he’s been building his house exactly twice as long as it takes you, and there’s no end in sight. One is building.
In any case, if you decide to do this, then thoroughly fasten the lower ends of the rack boards. And attach their tops with wire to the walls or roof of the house. Not forgetting that the fasteners will also interfere with the installation of the siding when you get to this fastener.
Wooden scaffolding similar type made from vertical 6-meter racks. You're unlikely to get a longer length - it's not standard. The racks are edged boards with a cross section of at least 40/100 millimeters.
Such boards are placed on the ground, at a distance of about a meter from each other, and fastened together with transverse boards of the same cross-section. They are laid overlapping, secured with three or four “hundred” nails (or the mentioned self-tapping screws).
The crossbars are placed at an approximate distance of one and a half meters from each other and everything is parallel to each other. At least three such sets are made.
Then install one such set vertically, next to the wall that you will cover with siding. The stand should not lean against the wall, but should be approximately 15 centimeters away from it, so as not to interfere with manipulations with the siding.
Place pieces of edged boards under the posts so that they do not sink into the ground. If the ground surface is not level, then adjust the installation of the racks with additional lining of such boards.
After one set is installed, it is temporarily secured in a strictly vertical position. Then, at a distance of about one and a half to 2 meters, a second such set is placed. With all the bells and whistles like the first one. Between these sets the boards are stuffed vertically, slightly diagonally. On one side and the other in exactly opposite directions. This will prevent the kits from folding and collapsing.
Diagonal boards from 4 to 6 meters long.
After two sets are already in place, they make a third one and install it in the same way.
Then they place it on the crossbars edged boards, usually “30” or “40” (these ones sag less) on which you will walk. Their length in our scenario is about 4 meters, or half a meter longer. For insurance, you can temporarily screw them to the crossbars with self-tapping screws. With the possibility of quick dismantling.
You don’t need a lot of such boards, because as you move higher for work, they are also transferred higher to the next crossbars.
It is better to climb onto these temporary platforms using a ladder that is placed on the side. It is not rational to fence scaffolding higher than 6 meters, since measuring standard boards are exactly this length and increasing them without additional reinforcement is a hassle.
When you reach 8 meters in height (6 meters of forest plus your height), this will be your roof ridge.
Many works during the construction, maintenance and repair of private houses have to be carried out at heights. Scaffolding, which is easy to purchase, can make the process of carrying out such activities easier and safer. finished form or assemble it yourself. Such structures are made independently from profile pipes or from wooden elements according to fairly simple patterns.
Basic elements of wood and metal scaffolding
Scaffolding (SC) is an auxiliary support structures. They are used for installing wall siding and roofing, lining gables, installing gutters, decorating the facades of private houses, and performing other activities. Do-it-yourself scaffolding is made from wood or metal. Regardless of the material used, they consist of the following basic elements:
- Vertical racks. These parts absorb the load from the structure and transfer it to the ground.
- Jumpers. Parts of the structure used for installing the decking. Jumpers are installed on the sides of the scaffolding.
- Ties. There are horizontal and diagonal. They are necessary to give the SL frame maximum spatial rigidity.
- Railing. They are the simplest fencing that protects a person performing construction work from falling from a height.
- Flooring. A structure made of boards knocked together. The flooring serves as a working platform.
- Stairs. Allow construction workers to climb onto and off scaffolding.
- Persistent cuts. Important element structures that protect it from tipping over.
Wood scaffolding is easier to assemble. They are light in weight. Their parts are attached to each other with self-tapping screws or nails. But wooden structures not suitable for heavy loads. Dismantling such scaffolding takes a long time. They can subsequently be collected several more times to complete high-altitude work. But the strength of re-assembled structures is reduced, since holes from hardware remain in the beams and boards.
SL from a profile pipe is much more reliable. They are quickly disassembled and then quickly assembled, maintaining their initially high strength characteristics. If necessary, they can be increased additional elements.
Types of structures and their operational characteristics
All scaffolding is divided into several types depending on the design and the fasteners used for their assembly. There are the following types described structures:
- Frame.
- Pin.
- Wedges.
- Hanging.
- Clamps.
Frame structures are strong and durable in use. They are made from metal parts with light weight (for example, from aluminum pipes). Such scaffolding has several vertical frames, which are reinforced with spacers. They are often equipped with wheels to quickly move the structure along the surface being processed (house walls, pediments).
Pin scaffolding is clumsy and heavy. They are considered the most stable and durable. Collected from metal pipes, connected into a single structure by nested locking elements and welding (with its help curved pieces are welded to the structure reinforcing bars). Pin SLs are recommended for making brick (stone) masonry, as they can easily withstand the heavy weight of the materials used.
Wedge scaffolding is mobile and quite durable. They combine the advantages of pin and frame structures. This is achieved through the use of special fasteners-holders, which are special flanges with slots. Wedge SL are optimal for the installation of complex facades and their maintenance.
Suspended structures, called cradles by home craftsmen, are used to decorate walls with tiles and other types of facing materials, for washing façade windows. They are not very functional, which cannot be said about clamp structures. The latter are recognized by experts as universal structures. Making clamp scaffolding is not at all easy. But with their help it will be possible to process (decorate, repair) buildings of the most complex and unusual configuration. Such structures, if necessary, easily change their shape vertically and horizontally.
Reliable wooden structure - how to make it yourself?
Frame wooden scaffolding is assembled from boards with a section of 10x5, 3–5 cm thick and timber 10x10 cm. Tools required circular saw, drill and hammer. Nails (screws) are used to fasten structural parts. Marking work is carried out with a tape measure and building level. Boards 3 cm thick are intended for creating stiffeners, 5 cm - for constructing flooring. The scaffolding drawing is developed taking into account the following requirements:
- The maximum height of the structure is 600 cm, length – 400.
- The minimum width of the flooring is 100 cm.
- The distance between the support posts of the structure is 200–250 cm.
For the construction of scaffolding, well-dried wood is taken. It is not allowed to have cracks or other defects. All wooden elements treated with solutions that prevent the development of mold and rot. Work begins with the manufacture of frames. Four beams are cut according to the planned height of the SL. The resulting blanks are placed on a flat piece of land. Two beams, 360 and 400 cm long, are attached to the support beams (from the inside). The second ones are fixed along the lower edge of the supports, the first ones - along the upper edge. The result is two trapezoidal frames. They are reinforced with spacers. The latter are installed diagonally.
The frames are lifted from the ground, placed vertically, and connected (temporarily) with sidewalls. Distance between top edges support posts 100 cm is taken, between the lower ones - 115 cm. The level checks the accuracy of the horizontal installation of the sidewalls. The made frame is connected into one whole with self-tapping screws or nails. It is preferable to use nails as fasteners. They are made of soft metal, which, under heavy load, does not break, but bends. Self-tapping screws are made from hardened steel, which is characterized by increased fragility. If the scaffolding is exposed to variable or significant shock loads, such fasteners will break. This leads to the SL falling apart.
The flooring is made from boards. They are attached to the transverse upper bars. The boards are installed without gaps - the tighter they lie, the more reliable the structure will be. Additional crossbars are installed on the sides of the structure. These lintels give the structure additional rigidity and serve as stairs.
Metal scaffolding – how many years are they designed for?
Structures made from profile pipes consist of 2–4 sections 160–200 long, 100 wide and 150 cm high. The specific number of the latter depends on the height and length of the house. Sections are made with aluminum or steel racks. In cases where scaffolding begins to take heavy loads, it is better to build them from steel. For assembly metal structure you need a welding unit, electric drill, level, grinder, fasteners (bolts and screws). The scaffolding flooring is made from edged boards (recommended thickness - 4 cm). Supports, crossbars, adapters and other parts of the structure are made from round and profile pipes with a cross-section of 1.5, 3x3 and 2.5x2.5 cm.
Spacers are cut from 1.5-centimeter diameter products. Diagonal parts are made 200 cm long, horizontal parts - 96 cm. Cuts are made at the ends of the pipes (two meters long). Their length is 6 cm. After this, the tubular products are flattened in the places of the cuts. The operation is performed to facilitate the connection of load-bearing pillars and struts.
Pipes with a cross section of 3x3 and 2.5x2.5 cm are cut into lengths of 8 and 30 cm, respectively. Adapters are made from the resulting blanks - special elements to increase the height of the SL. Sections of shorter length are put on longer ones and welded together.
Using spacers and vertical posts, two frames are created. They are not difficult to make - you should weld spacers to the posts every 0.3 m of the length of the latter. The result is products that are visually similar to stairs.
Plates measuring 7x7 cm are welded to the lower ends of the supports. They are cut from sheet steel. The records won't allow massive construction fall under its own weight and the weight of the people working on it into the ground. If necessary, wooden blocks are additionally placed under these plates during the use of scaffolding.
Welded frames are placed vertically. The attachment points of the diagonal struts are determined. Holes are made in the marked places with an electric drill. Bolts are screwed into them. All parts of the scaffolding are connected. After this, be sure to check the horizontality of the crossbars using a level. If there is a distortion, parts of the SL are adjusted. exploit homemade design with non-horizontal crossbars is prohibited due to its low stability.
Making decking and painting pipe structures
Flooring metal scaffolding made from boards. They are laid across or along the section. In the first case wooden blanks are fixed to pipes that are installed on the sides of the scaffolding (fastening is done with bolts). IN longitudinal direction It is allowed to lay boards longer than 200 cm. They are assembled into one flooring (without gaps) and are reinforced against deflection with transverse bars. The latter are mounted at the bottom of the boards.
A U-shaped metal profile is mounted at the ends of the flooring. Its width is 1.7–2 cm. The profile is cut to the size of the flooring and fixed to the latter with self-tapping screws. This design eliminates the possibility of the boards shifting.
Scaffolding made from profile pipes is used repeatedly. They can be easily disassembled and assembled as needed. To extend their service life, it is recommended to paint SL. Painting is carried out according to a simple scheme:
- all scaffolding elements are thoroughly sanded;
- metal surfaces are dust free;
- the pipes are primed.
After the soil has dried, painting is done. It is advisable to apply a layer of paint to the board flooring, having previously treated the wood with an antiseptic composition.
During the construction or finishing of a house, you cannot do without scaffolding. To build them, you don’t have to turn to professionals; you can easily do everything yourself. The structure can be erected either from wood or from a profile pipe. The first structures will be disposable, but the second ones can be used a large number of times. Next, we’ll look at how to properly build both types of scaffolding with your own hands.
What does the structure consist of?
Before proceeding to the construction of scaffolding, it is necessary to clearly determine what elements they consist of. So, the design includes:
various braces that give rigidity to the structure;
floor crossbars;
boards that will serve as the floor of each floor;
supports that will provide stability;
fencing;
staircase for ascending to the floors of a structure.
A homemade structure – isn’t it dangerous?
It’s very easy to make scaffolding yourself, but is it worth it? First of all, I would like to note that this is not a small portable design, but quite a voluminous structure, which then needs to be stored somewhere. Even if it is disassembled, the existing boards and pipes will need to be attached somewhere. It’s good if the house can be heated with wood, then it can be useful, but if not, the wood will simply deteriorate over time. With metal scaffolding, everything is somewhat simpler - they can be rented out, but again, if there is a demand for them.
It is also worth noting that the use of hand-made structures is possible no higher than the second floor. The construction of scaffolding, especially of wood, at a higher height can be hazardous to health. In addition, you need to understand that if the structure will no longer be used, is it worth spending a lot of time on its construction? It might be easier to rent. Having assessed all of the above, you can decide whether homemade scaffolding is needed during the construction or renovation of a house. If the answer is yes, it will be necessary to create drawings where not only appearance design, but also indicates the amount of material required.
Installation of a wooden structure
In order to create a structure made of wood, you will need to prepare the following materials:
wooden boards for racks approximately 5x10 centimeters thick;
boards for the floor and crossbars 5 centimeters thick;
wooden boards for fencing and braces with a thickness of at least 3 centimeters;
In this case, the step between the posts should be approximately 2.3 meters, the width of the floor, in order for it to be safe to walk on, should be at least 1 meter, and the height of the structure should be no more than 5 meters. So, in order to create scaffolding from boards with your own hands you need:
use braces to fasten four posts together;
secure the crossbars at the required height;
fasten the boards that serve as the floor to the crossbars;
attach boards that will act as a fence;
install supports;
fix the ladder in the right place;
check the drawings.
All work on creating a structure made of wood is carried out only with the help of nails and a hammer (see video).
Metal structure
A structure made from a profile pipe is more reliable than a structure made from boards. When building a structure, it is necessary to take into account that the dimensions of one section should be approximately 1.5x1x1.6 meters (see photo). You also need to prepare materials such as:
pipe for supports cross section 3x3 centimeters and 1.5 meters long;
pipe for braces with a diameter of 1.5 centimeters;
pipe for connections with a cross section of 2.5x2.5 centimeters;
the floor is made of boards about 5 centimeters thick and about 2 meters long;
So, in order to create a structure from a profile pipe you need:
cut pipes for braces for horizontal elements of 1 meter and for vertical elements of 2 meters;
cut two-meter braces at each end, which will greatly simplify their fastening;
connect two supports to each other with horizontal braces, the distance between which should be approximately 30 centimeters;
secure the connecting elements;
drill holes for bolts on the braces and supports;
assemble the structure from a profile pipe to the end;
clean the structure and paint it;
check the available drawings.
How to do without forests?
It is worth thinking about scaffolding even at the stage of creating house drawings, but if this does not happen, what is the right thing to do? If the construction or finishing work of the building is carried out by professionals, then there is no need to think about them, because every team should have such structures. If they have a chance self-construction lost or no more work is planned where they might be needed, the structure can easily be rented.
But in order for scaffolding to really no longer be needed, everything finishing work immediately need to be carried out with the highest quality possible. For example, it is better to use as finishing materials facing brick or other similar ones, because, for example, plaster and siding will require additional attention.
Or production of such construction work Scaffolding is widely used for painting facades or lining cornices.
Currently, it is possible to rent inventory scaffolding or scaffolding and return it upon completion of work. But this is justified only when performing work that takes a short period of time. If the construction is carried out exclusively on your own and for a long time, then rent will be very expensive. That's why most future property owners prefer to make scaffolding with their own hands.
Most often, private owners use the following types of forests:
- Scaffolding supported on trestles - suitable for such “quick” work as painting the facade of a not too tall house, arranging eaves overhangs roofs, If desired, they can also be used to fill formwork with concrete and brickwork walls
- Envelope scaffolding is mainly used in house construction.
- Attached wooden frame scaffolding is good for both construction and home renovation.
Gantry scaffolding
Traces are often used not only in construction, but also in external and interior decoration Houses. Their advantages are:
- cheapness;
- ease of manufacture;
- light weight;
- mobility.
Such scaffolding consists of two trestles, knocked together from boards, and a flooring, which can be either just a set of individual boards, cut to length, or a solid board made together. Using a shield allows you not to worry about the boards “corroding” under your feet.
To make trestles you need:
- edged board with a thickness of 30 - 50 mm;
- nails or screws;
- to tie the parts together, you can use steel corners 50*50 mm (if available);
- drill or screwdriver;
- hammer;
- roulette.
It is advisable to first sketch out a simple sketch with dimensions in order to correctly cut and prepare the parts for assembly. The central beam of the trestles can be either just a thick board or a structure of three boards like a channel, to which the legs are sewn at an angle.
For greater rigidity, the legs can be pulled together with crossbars, and jibs can be nailed at the ends. The length of the deck depends on how large it needs to be work site. But you should not make the flooring too long, otherwise you will have to install another trestle in the center.
Envelope type scaffolding
This is a structure that is attached directly to the wall.
- The main structural part of such scaffolding is triangular support platforms made of 50 mm thick boards. They are L-shaped brackets, trimmed on the sides with board (25*100 mm). The size of one shelf of such a bracket usually does not exceed 400 mm. This is due to the fact that the shelf is a support for the working floor. A smaller size may lead to a lack of space on the scaffolding, and a larger size may lead to the structure being torn away from the wall and, as a result, injury to people working on the scaffolding.
- The brackets are attached to the wall at the height where the working flooring is planned to be installed. They are usually secured with nails, pressing the vertical arm of the bracket against the wall.
- Additionally, the brackets are supported by long support boards with a cross-section of 100*50 mm, installed at an angle and resting on the ground. For better traction with the ground, the lower ends of the supports are pointed.
The wood for making envelopes must be of high quality; this ensures sufficient reliability of the structure.
Wooden scaffolding
Most often, in the low-rise sector, wooden scaffolding is used, consisting of a system of supports and flooring. They serve both to lift workers to the required height and to place them on building materials and tool.
Forests can be of considerable height and multi-tiered. There are some general requirements, which apply to all scaffolding and scaffolding:
- They must be reliable. Their strength margin should allow them to easily withstand the weight of materials and workers placed on them.
- The design must be economical, but not at the expense of reliability.
- The design of the scaffolding should be simple and convenient not only for operation, but also for assembly and disassembly.
- It is desirable that the material of scaffolding and scaffolding can be reused after construction is completed.
The simplest scaffolding design consists of the following elements:
- Support posts – vertical supports, which can be made from high-quality edged boards (100*50 mm) or timber (100*100 mm). It is important that the boards and beams are intact, without rot, cracks or insect damage. If necessary, the racks can be spliced along the length. The elements are connected end-to-end and fixed with side plates.
- Cross members – they are the ones who, taking the load from the working floor, transfer it to the racks. The same requirements apply to the material of the crossbars as for the racks. They must be a single element. If splicing is necessary, it is done with additional support.
- Braces – connect the racks diagonally. They can be made from slats or even slabs.
- Flooring – ladders laid on crossbars. They are the main working surface.
Edged or unedged boards can be used. The top of the flooring can be sewn sheet material. To prevent materials and tools from falling from the deck, a side board is sewn along its outer part. To make the structure more stable, it can be supported by slopes made from boards 25–30 mm thick.
Rules for scaffolding
To build scaffolding you will need the following tools:
- saw;
- level;
- hammer.
During construction wooden scaffolding The following rules must be observed:
- Before installing the scaffolding, it is necessary to level and compact the base. , then it is necessary to make wooden platforms to support the racks.
- The pitch of the racks can be 1 – 2 m.
- Each structural unit must have at least three attachment points.
- It is better to use large self-tapping screws as fasteners. If nails are used for this, then with reverse side they need to be bent.
- WITH inside It is necessary to install handrails on the racks - this will prevent workers from falling from the scaffolding.
- For ease of work, the width of the flooring between the posts should be from 50 to 100 cm.
Work order
Scaffolding is assembled in the following sequence:
- First, the racks are fastened together using diagonal ties. For reliability, you can use not only nails and screws, but also corners.
- Then the crossbar elements are attached at the required height.
- Horizontal flooring boards are fixed to them.
- The railings are sewn on.
- If it is necessary to give the structure additional stability, slopes are installed.
- To climb the scaffolding, it is necessary to secure it to the side of the scaffolding, although you can also use ladders.
For greater reliability, using additional wooden elements, the scaffolding can be connected to the wall of the house.
If in own strength and are afraid that when collecting homemade scaffolding Difficulties may arise, then you can choose the option of renting prefabricated scaffolding.
When building a residential building, many processes must be performed at height, and therefore it is impossible to do without reliable scaffolding. The most optimal solution– make scaffolding with your own hands, then you won’t have to pay rent and waste time on transporting the structure. They come in wood and metal, and depending on the material, the assembly technology has certain differences.
Construction and types of scaffolding
Both wooden and metal scaffolding have the same elements:
- support posts;
- stairs;
- floorings and lintels for it;
- fencing railings;
- stops;
- horizontal and diagonal struts.
Wooden structures are easier to assemble - they are smaller in size, and all parts are nailed together. At the same time, such scaffolding is not designed for heavy loads; dismantling it takes time, and reassembly will be less durable, since nail holes remain in the beams. Scaffolding made from metal pipes is much stronger, they can be easily expanded if necessary, and the reliability of the connections remains high no matter how many times the structure is disassembled and reassembled.
Wedge forests Depending on the methods of fastening, there are 4 main types of scaffolding.
Table. Types of forests
| Types of forests | Description |
|---|---|
| frame | metal structures made of vertical frames fastened together by diagonal and horizontal struts. These scaffoldings are lightweight and easy to install |
| wedge | very reliable and durable structures, all elements of which are fixed with special holders |
| pin | Rarely used scaffolding, which is light and easy to assemble, can withstand very heavy loads, but is too expensive and puts a lot of pressure on the ground |
| clamp | This is a versatile scaffolding that is perfect for buildings with complex geometric shapes. The assembly process is quite labor-intensive, but if necessary, the shape of the structure can be easily changed horizontally and vertically |
How to assemble wooden scaffolding
To make it convenient to work on the scaffolding, there should be a distance of 2 to 2.5 meters between the posts, the width of the flooring should be at least 1 m, and overall height scaffolding - maximum 6 m. Based on these parameters, an approximate design drawing is drawn up.
To work you will need:
- timber 100x100 mm;
- boards 30 mm thick;
- boards with a section of 100x50 mm;
- nails;
- hammer;
- level;
- roulette;
- circular saw.
The wood must be dense and dry, without cracks. Damp wood will make the structure heavier and may become deformed after drying. Since scaffolding is required only for the duration of construction or finishing of the house, there is no need to treat it with antiseptic compounds or sand it.
Step 1. Making the frame
4 beams are cut to the height of the scaffolding and laid on a flat area. Now they take 2 beams of 4 m each and 2 of 3.6 m each, and nail them from the inside to the support beams: the smaller ones along the upper edge, 4 meter ones along the lower edge. You should end up with two identical trapezoids, which should be additionally reinforced with diagonal struts.
Step 2. Assembling the frame
The frames are lifted, installed vertically one opposite the other and temporarily fastened with sidewalls: the distance between the lower edges of the racks should be 1.15 m, between the upper edges about 1 m. Check the horizontal position of the sidewalls with a building level, and if everything is correct, nail the frame tightly. Finished design should have a pyramidal shape and strictly horizontal sidewalls made of timber.
Step 3. Installation of flooring
Flooring boards must be nailed to the upper cross beams. It is best to stuff them along the width of the frame; The boards are laid closely, without gaps at the joints. Additional crossbars are attached to the sides of the frame, which can be used as stairs.
Prices for various types of construction boards
Construction boards
Assembly of metal scaffolding
In private construction, it is most convenient to use frame metal scaffolding with wooden flooring. They consist of several sections, the number of which depends on the length of the building and its height. Steel and aluminum racks; if heavy loads are expected, it is better to choose steel elements. The standard section has a height of 1.5 m, a width of 1 m and a length of 1.65 to 2 m.
To work you will need:
Step 1. Preparing the spacers
Blanks for spacers are cut from pipes with a diameter of 15 mm: the length of horizontal ones is 96 cm, diagonal - 2 m. After this, cuts 6 cm long are made at the ends of two-meter tubes and flattened. This will make it easier to attach the spacers to the supporting posts.
Step 2. Making adapters
To build up scaffolding, you will need connecting elements - adapters. They are made from profile pipes: 25x25 mm pipes are cut into pieces 30 cm long, and 8 cm long blanks are cut from 30x30 mm pipes. Short blanks are put on long ones and welded in the middle to prevent shifts.
Step 3. Frame assembly
Two vertical racks They are connected to each other by horizontal struts, welding them every 30 cm. The result is a frame in the form. The second frame is assembled in the same way. From sheet metal cut out square plates 70x70 mm and weld them flat to the lower ends of the support posts. Thanks to this, the section racks will not sink into the ground, although on soft soils dense wooden planks are additionally laid under the metal plates.
Step 4. Section installation
Two frames are installed vertically, one opposite the other, and diagonal struts are tried on. Mark the fastening points with a marker, then drill holes for the bolts in the posts and spacers. Connect all parts together and check the horizontal position with a level. top bars. If the structure is skewed, you will have to additionally adjust all the elements, otherwise it will be difficult to stand on the scaffolding.
Step 5. Making the flooring
Flooring boards can be laid in two ways - along the length of the section and across. For transverse flooring, the sides of the structure are bolted horizontal pipes at the level of the upper struts. For longitudinal flooring, take boards at least 2 m long, knock them down along the width of the sections, and reinforce them from below with transverse bars to prevent deflection.
To ensure that the flooring does not move during operation, a metal U-shaped profile should be secured to its ends according to the thickness of the spacer. To do this, lay the finished shield on the scaffolding and mark the line from below with a marker where the horizontal spacer touches the boards. Markings are made in the same way at the other end of the shield. Next, take a profile 17-20 mm wide, cut it to the width of the flooring and screw it with self-tapping screws to the boards on the marked lines. Now, when the flooring is laid on the scaffolding, the spacers will be inside the profile, which will not allow the boards to move.
Step 5. Painting the scaffolding
Metal scaffolding is intended for reusable use, which means it needs protective treatment. Since scaffolding is more often used for outdoor work, moisture causes the frame to become corroded, especially at the attachment points. Therefore, after manufacturing and checking the scaffolding, each element should be sanded, wiped off dust, primed and painted. Wood flooring also treated and painted to protect against moisture and rot.
Prices for poles, profile pipes
Pillars, profile pipes
Video - DIY scaffolding
