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Homemade metal scaffolding. How to make scaffolding with your own hands. To make trestles you need

When building, repairing and maintaining a private house or cottage, some work has to be done at height. By using ladder Not everything can be done, and it’s not very convenient. It is much more convenient to use scaffolding.

Homemade wooden scaffolding

Metal scaffolding is, of course, reliable and durable, but most often they are made of wood. Anyone can work with wood, and all you need is a saw, nails/screws, a hammer/screwdriver/screwdriver. The set of tools is simple, which any owner can find, and if there is something missing, it doesn’t require a lot of money to purchase. Metal is more difficult in this regard. It requires at least some handling skills, availability welding machine and at least some idea of ​​how. That is why do-it-yourself scaffolding is in most cases made from wood.

What to make from

Everyone understands that scaffolding or scaffolding is needed for a short period of time. But for their manufacture it is necessary to use construction wood of good quality, with a minimum of knots. Some craftsmen advise making forests exclusively from spruce. Unlike pine, its knots are located singly and have almost no effect on the strength of the board.

But rarely anyone has spruce boards in stock, but pine is usually enough. You can also make scaffolding from pine boards, but each of them must be checked (in any case, those that go to the racks and flooring). To do this, stack two columns (three or four bricks one on top of the other, a couple of building blocks, two boulders, etc.). When checking three-meter boards, the distance between them is 2.2-2.5 m. Place the board on the posts, stand in the middle and jump on it a couple of times. If there are weak spots, the board will break or crack. Withstood - you can use it.

The thickness of the board must be discussed specifically, referring to the design of the scaffolding, the distances between the posts and the planned load. The only thing that can be said is that 40 mm or 50 mm thick boards are most often used for racks and flooring, and 25-30 mm for jibs. Such a board can be used in detailed construction work, if it is possible not to damage it during dismantling of the scaffolding.

Nails or screws

The debate about whether nails or self-tapping screws are better always goes on, but in this case it is aggravated by the fact that the work is carried out at heights, and increased reliability is required from the structure. From this point of view, nails are better. They are made of soft metal and when loaded, they bend but do not break. Self-tapping screws are made of hardened steel, but it is brittle and breaks when exposed to shock or variable loads. This is critical for scaffolding - there have been cases when they fell apart. But we are talking about “black” screws. If they are also anodized - yellowish-green - they are not so fragile and can easily withstand all the loads. If you are seriously concerned about the reliability of the scaffolding, it is better to use nails. They are not liked due to the fact that it is impossible to disassemble the joint quickly and without losses - most often the wood is damaged.

At self-production scaffolding, you can do this: initially assemble everything using anodized screws. If the design turns out to be convenient and correct, play it safe by driving two or three nails into each connection. In order not to damage the wood during disassembly, scraps of thin boards can be placed under the nails; for a long span, whole boards, but of small thickness, can be used. When disassembling, it can be split, and protruding nails can be easily removed.

Designs and their features

For different types works use scaffolding and scaffolding of different designs. Too big for working with light materials bearing capacity not needed. In such cases, attached scaffolds or envelope scaffolds are made.

For work on gables or exterior decoration short one-story house They use construction trestles, on the crossbars of which the flooring is laid.

For laying brick walls, any building blocks, for finishing the facade with brick or stone - all these works require full-fledged scaffolding.

As a rule, all these structures are not attached to the walls of the building, but are fixed with stops that support the racks. Next, let's talk in more detail about each of these structures.

Attached scaffolding

They are called so because they are usually not attached to the wall, but simply leaned against it. They are held in place by a stop. The more this type of scaffolding is loaded, the stronger it stands. There are two designs, both of them are made in the form of the letter “L”, only turned in different directions.

The picture on the right shows a simple and reliable design scaffolding Their only drawback is that they are not height adjustable. They are convenient if you need, for example, to hem roof overhangs, install or clean gutters, or all those jobs that have a slight variation in height. Some even adapt such scaffolding for building a house from logs (timber). It is convenient to roll or lift logs along the edges of the stops.

They are reliable - they can withstand an 11-meter log and three people Construction scaffolding - a simple design

In the picture on the left there is an envelope scaffolding or Armenian scaffolding. The design is simple and reliable, although it does not seem so. But it has already been tested on many thousands of houses under construction. Attractive because it requires a minimum building materials, you can assemble/disassemble/move them in a matter of minutes. The main thing is to make triangles, and setting them to a given height takes a little time: raise the triangle, support it with an inclined beam, which is fixed in the ground.

To make triangles, a board 40-50 mm thick and 100-150 mm wide is used. The vertical part can be long - it is convenient to use it to lift the scaffolding to a given height. Top bar It is made 80-100 cm long, flooring boards are laid on it. By the way, they are also 50 mm thick, and the wider the better, ideally also 150 mm.

When making corners, the joint must be positioned so that the horizontal board is on top. To increase the reliability of this unit, you can use metal linings in the form of a corner. But if the corner is fixed using three jibs nailed on both sides, this is not necessary.

Such triangles are installed approximately every meter. If the façade allows, they are nailed down; if not, they are made use of only by gravity. The main load in this design falls on the thrust board - the one that is placed at an angle and one end rests on the ground, the other on the top of the triangle. These stops are made from timber, boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm, pipes of a solid diameter (at least 76 mm) or cross-section (for a profiled pipe at least 50 * 40 mm). When installing the stop, it is placed exactly in the corner, driven into the ground, and additionally secured by driving in wedges.

To eliminate the possibility of lateral shift, the installed stops are fixed with several jibs connecting them into a rigid structure. For these jibs you can use unedged board, if there is one, but of sufficient thickness and width.

If there is a need to grow the thrust boards (if they are needed longer than 6 meters), an additional emphasis is made for such a board. It rests approximately in the middle of the main one, relieving part of the load.

Now a little about the flooring of these attached scaffolds. It is made from a wide board 40-50 mm thick. In this case, it is advisable to fix them to the triangles, at least with self-tapping screws. This design does not provide for the presence of railings, and the slightest movement under your feet will cause increased discomfort. Therefore, fixation is extremely desirable.

Wooden scaffolding: drawings and photos

The options described above are good if the work does not involve heavy materials. Also, it is not always possible to support scaffolding on a wall - any ventilated facade or multi-layer wall - and you will not be able to install such a structure. In this case, full-fledged forests are made. Their design is also not complicated, but a decent amount of lumber is required.

For their construction, boards of considerable thickness are also used - 40-50 mm. First, the racks are assembled. These are two vertical beams or thick boards fastened with crossbars. The dimensions of the crossbars are 80-100 cm. They should be made based on the fact that the minimum is more or less comfortable width flooring - 60 cm. But you will feel much more confident if you have at least 80 cm. To give the structure greater lateral stability, the racks can be made tapering upward.

The stands are placed at a distance of 1.5-2.5 meters. The span depends on the thickness of the boards that you will use for the flooring - it is necessary that they do not sag. The racks installed at the required distance are fastened together with slopes. They will not allow the structure to fold sideways. The more crossbars and jibs, the more reliable the scaffolding becomes.

To prevent scaffolding from falling, they are supported by boards/beams, one end of which is nailed to the posts (with nails), the other is buried in the ground

The cross beams prevent the scaffold from folding sideways, but there is still the possibility that the unsecured scaffold could fall forward. To prevent this from happening, the beams are supported with jibs. If the height of the scaffolding is 2.5-3 meters, this need not be done, but if you need to carry out work at the level of the second or third floor, such fixation is necessary.

If work will be carried out at high altitudes, it is advisable to install railings. They can be made from not very thick boards, but there should be no knots or cracks. Handrails will help those who are afraid of heights to feel more confident at the top.

Standard molding is enough to reach the floor level of the second floor - 6 meters. You can assemble small scaffolding from old, but strong boards. Sometimes poles or pipes are used for braces and stops - whatever is available on the farm

Construction trestles

There is also a way to make lightweight mobile scaffolding - build identical construction trestles, filling the crossbars with a certain pitch, which will be both a ladder and a support for the flooring boards.

This type of scaffolding is good, for example, when covering a house with siding. The sheathing goes from bottom to top, the height has to be changed all the time, there is no way to lean against or fix to the wall. Therefore, this option is the best for such a case.

Construction trestles - options

Sometimes one rack on one side is made vertical, without tilting. This allows you to install them closer to the wall, the flooring is then located closer to the wall. In some cases this is convenient - for example, when caulking, painting, preventative treatment.

Types and components of metal scaffolding

When building a house from stone or building blocks, metal scaffolding is more suitable. They are able to withstand any load. They are less popular only for the reason that in many regions wood is still the most cheap look building materials. The second point, which is often decisive, is that after dismantling the wooden scaffolding, the boards can be put to work - used in further construction. And metal parts should gather dust in.

But metal scaffolding also has its advantages. When disassembled, they do not take up much space. Owners wooden houses you still have to use them periodically: the log house requires maintenance, so the scaffolding is needed every two to three years. In this case, it is more practical to use metal rather than wooden ones. They are easier to assemble, more durable and stronger.

All metal scaffolding has the same shape - vertical posts connected by crossbars and slopes. The only difference is the way the parts are attached to each other:

• Pin scaffolding. They are called so because the crossbars and posts are connected using pins. Pieces of pipe or perforated disks are welded on the racks, and bent pins are on the crossbars. This system is very easy to assemble and can withstand heavy loads. Pin scaffolding for buildings of simple shape is very easy to implement; going around bay windows and projections is much more difficult.

  

• Clamps. Pipes are used for racks and crossbars round section, which are fastened together using clamps of a special design. The system turns out to be very mobile and movable; you can easily get around any curved facades. The downside is the limited load capacity and height (according to GOST - no higher than 40 meters).

  

  Clamp scaffolding - quick installation/dismantling

• Frame. From round or rectangular pipe frames of the same size are welded. They are connected to each other by transverse pipes and jibs. They have a modular structure and can be easily expanded both in height and in length. They have a certain step in length - 1.5/2/2.5/3 meters, in height one section is usually 2 meters, the standard depth is 1 m. Some frames have wheels for easier movement on a flat surface. Connection of flag-type elements - pins with a slot into which the flag is inserted are welded on the frame. Holes are made in the crossbars and slopes. The elements are put on a pin and secured with a flag. Sections are built up using connecting pipes smaller diameter, welded to the frame posts on one side. With this method, it is important to have perfectly selected pipe sizes so that there is no backlash.

  

  Frame scaffolding - the principle of fastening crossbars and jibs

• Wedges. Although generally similar, the designs differ in the form of the connection. On the jays with a certain pitch (usually 2 meters), perforated discs are welded. Special cleft-mouth type locks are welded onto the jumpers at both ends. The locks are fixed to the disk using a specially shaped wedge. Such scaffolding connects and disconnects quickly, has high mobility, and can be used on facades of complex shapes.

  

When making metal scaffolding yourself, pin scaffolding is most often used. They are the easiest to implement, however, they are only good on rectangular facades; to bypass more complex shapes, you have to weld additional tubes.

Scaffolding– a specific thing and not always necessary. But what to do if they are so necessary, but there is nowhere to get them? Install it yourself! Before getting down to work, it is important to know that scaffolding is created according to the principle frame structure, assembled from wooden and steel elements. To understand how to make scaffolding with your own hands, the master must decide on its type.

Scaffolding design and types

Based on the material of production, forests are divided into two types:

• metal;
• wooden.

Another criterion for dividing scaffolding into types is the method of fastening structural elements. According to this method, forests are divided into:

• frame - considered especially durable, since their main frame is an all-metal frame;
• pin - parts of the structure in these scaffoldings are attached to each other with a pin;
• wedge - the structure of such scaffolding is connected using the wedge method;
• clamp - vertical and horizontal posts are connected by inserts using the “pipe to pipe” method, secured with rotating and non-rotating clamps.

How to assemble wooden scaffolding

What you will need to install scaffolding

To assemble the scaffolding, which is also called a “goat” or “table”, you will need the following materials:

• Nails or self-tapping screws (any kind, as long as there is enough length, except rusty and bent ones, otherwise the work will turn into sheer torture);
• Boards (pallets, fences, old furniture, pieces of chipboard, plywood or wooden boards);
• Bars (any sticks, fragments, pieces metal profiles, branches from trees).

Frame making

Drawings will be an excellent assistant for those who install scaffolding with their own hands. These are the easiest way to assemble the frame. To do this, they are fixed on a pre-prepared site. wooden coasters and shoes, if necessary, screw supports are installed. After which the frames are mounted with a certain step. Their number determines the expected length of the structure. Special frames with borders are installed along the edges. To lower and lift workers, ladders are mounted on the frames. The entire structure is held together by horizontal and diagonal ties. There are special locks in the frame to secure them.

Frame assembly

DIY scaffolding

The minimum safe height of scaffolding is 5-6 m, width is 50 cm, and their recommended length is 4 m. Based on these figures, calculate the size of the frame and required quantity material whose quality deserves special attention.

In particular, to create a frame they choose solid timber at least 10 cm wide. End strips structures are mounted under acute angle. Two six-meter support beams are laid in a horizontal position. The distance between them is the width of the future forests. Two more six-meter beams are laid nearby at the same distance. The upper ends of the beams should converge at a slight angle in the form of a trapezoid, this will give stability to future scaffolding.

Side posts are fixed to these beams - the support of future decking. Secure the racks with inside, and only three racks are used for the decking, and the last one serves to strengthen the structure. There should be no more than 4 sidewalls in total, since it is not recommended to erect scaffolding higher than “four floors”.

Preparing additional racks

Flooring installation

Before making scaffolding, it is necessary to determine the requirements that it must meet. Height can be considered a determining parameter, because the flooring is necessary specifically for working at a certain height.

Flooring installation

The length of the “goat” depends solely on the size of the available materials. Of course, a table that is too short will be very inconvenient, especially at high altitudes. And you need to remember that there will probably be two people and a bucket of solution standing on the table.

To achieve the required flooring width, use required quantity boards However, if it is made not from boards, but from chipboard, then increasing it will be difficult. As for scaffolding erected indoors, the so-called “goats”, then important point will be the width of the available doorways, as well as the presence of other furniture. After all, the “goat” will need to be moved somehow.

The weight factor is one of the most important, because carrying scaffolding is inconvenient, and heavy ones even more so. Moving them by dragging them is once again exposing them to unwanted physical influence. On the other hand, it’s definitely not worth sacrificing height and strength.

Not only the health of the builder, but also the integrity of walls, floors, and equipment depends on the strength of scaffolding. Everything that may be nearby. However, there is no point in loading the structure with unnecessary elements. It is far from certain that they will actually add strength. Right hammered nails, tightened screws and mounted jumpers - this is a guarantee of strength.

Properly made lintels are the basis for builder safety

Wooden scaffolding can be considered stable if it does not wobble. And it’s not just that the employee feels uncomfortable if the table is wobbly. Any furniture breaks for this very reason, including scaffolding. Properly placed jumpers are the only way to achieve stability.

For flooring, wide and long boards are used, nailing them to the sides. These three boards need to be distributed along the edges and in the center of the flooring so that it does not sag. By the way, it’s more convenient to cut off the excess when the flooring is already assembled - then you won’t need to measure anything. The gaps between the boards reduce the weight of the product. On the other hand, they make it possible for small objects to constantly fall onto the floor.

When screwing in the screws, you need to make sure that the boards do not crack. And the protruding screws can easily be broken off with a hammer blow. If the nails are long, they should be bent through something round - the handle of pliers, for example. In this case, the sharp end of the nail will enter the wood with reverse side, giving additional strength.

Assembly of metal scaffolding

Metal scaffolding is much stronger than wooden scaffolding and has more long term services. However, their production takes more time and labor costs. A scaffolding diagram is usually used to calculate materials and size. Multi-tiered scaffolding is made of aluminum, small structures are made of steel. Steel, unlike aluminum, is more suitable for independent arrangement forests To build metal scaffolding with your own hands, the master will need:

• a round pipe with a diameter of 15 mm is the basis for future spacers;
• profile pipe with a diameter of 30 mm - necessary for the production of racks;
• profile pipe with a diameter of 25 - connecting jumpers are made from it;
• fastening materials for metal;
• “grinder” - used to grind corners and saw pipes;
• drill and drill bits.

Preparing the spacers

Installation metal scaffolding begins with preparing the spacers. A 15 mm pipe is cut into two fragments of 2 meters each. Their ends are flattened. At each end, two longitudinal cuts of no more than 2 cm are made with a grinder.

Then the 30 mm pipe is cut into fragments of 1.5 m (the height of one scaffolding span). Then 0.70 m pieces are cut from the same pipe, intended for jumpers between the span posts. The jumpers are installed 35 cm apart. The dimensions of all fragments are carefully rechecked. After all work is completed, the structure is welded into a single unit using a welding machine.

Making adapters

On further stage adapters are installed between sections. To do this, a pipe with a diameter of 25 mm is cut into small sections of 25 cm, and a pipe with a diameter of 30 mm is cut into even smaller sections of 5 cm, with their help the jumpers will be fixed. A piece of 25 cm is threaded into a piece of 5 cm to its center. Then it is secured by welding or self-tapping screws.

For further assembly of the scaffolding, holes for bolts are made at the ends of the lintels and in the racks. The jumpers are securely fastened between the section posts crosswise, on both sides. Next, using connecting adapters, the next floor of the structure is created.

Frame assembly

Frame metal scaffolding can withstand pressure of 180-200 kg per sq.m. They are made of racks and frames. Such scaffolding is allowed to be erected to a greater height - up to 45 meters. Before installing the metal frame, the location of tiers, stairs and other structural elements is first determined.

Assembly of the frame begins with the fact that on a pre-prepared area, 3 m sections are laid out, on which the frames are laid. support boards. Metal supports are fixed on these boards, forming the basis of the initial tier. After the supports are fastened together with iron ties, the next floor is installed. On each floor there are working surfaces made of boards - decking. To climb them, the scaffolding is equipped with ladders on the sides.

Section installation

Before arranging the scaffolding, it is necessary to determine the size and location of the sections. In this case, three conditions must be met:

• the width between the posts is no more than 3 m;
• the length between the posts is no more than 4 m;
• the height between floors is no more than 2 m.

The number of sections depends on the size of the wall. The flooring sheet is secured to the racks with metal screws or clamps. Then horizontal guides (jumpers) are welded to the racks. Pieces of pipe (adapters) are “put on” the upper ends of the racks and welded. If a thin-walled pipe is used, then during assembly its ends and middle are flattened, and holes for fastening are made in these places.

Two diagonal strips are tightened with a bolt in the center, then they are applied to the racks and points for future holes are marked. Diagonal strips are fixed to the racks with bolts. Then thrust bearings - flat metal plates - are welded to the ends of the pipes. After which the structure is installed in its working position.

Making flooring

The flooring for metal scaffolding is made according to the same principle as for wooden scaffolding. Flooring is made from edged boards, 40-50 mm thick, metal sheets are also used.

Painting scaffolding

When erecting scaffolding with their own hands, not everyone thinks about the need to paint them. This is not prerequisite for their operation. However, a layer of paint will protect the metal from corrosion, and the wood from getting wet and rotting, which will significantly increase the shelf life of the scaffolding.

Sooner or later, construction reaches the finishing of the facade. And here the need arises to carry out work in the height range from 4 to 10 meters. After all, the gables need to be hemmed, the siding needs to be installed, the façade elements need to be painted, and drainage system install.

There is only one way out - to install scaffolding or a tower. But industrial building structures expensive, and the price of a tower with a working height of 8-10 meters is very steep. You can rent them, but if the work takes a long time, such a rental will cost a pretty penny.

Metal or wood

Scaffolding can be made of wood or metal. The practical experience of forum members suggests that building metal structures It is economically feasible only if you have “free” hardware. If you buy metal, fasteners, study welding work, then such structures will ultimately cost more than factory ones and, especially, wooden ones.

While scaffolding can be carefully dismantled and the boards put into use, metal ones are doomed to gather dust in the utility room. Experienced builders They will say that high-quality scaffolding or a tower can then be rented out. But few private developers will want to tinker with this. Therefore, the majority of forum users still prefer wooden structures.

HukTo member FORUMHOUSE

Metal scaffolding is better than wooden scaffolding, but the main trump card of wooden scaffolding is the relative cheapness, simplicity and speed of their production.

Advice from FORUMHOUSE: it is better to build your own wooden scaffolding from high-quality lumber. High quality board, unlike waste material, which will have to be thrown away after use, can be used in a new construction site.

DIY scaffolding for your home.

How to make scaffolding from boards

Before you start DIY wooden structures, it is necessary to decide on the scope of work. If in one case they can be the simplest - attached (for lining gables, siding country house etc.), then in other cases (finishing the facade with stone or brick, plastering work etc.) a more serious design is needed.

The dimensions of the base unit are as follows:

• Length – 5 m;
• Width – 1 m;
• Height (thickness) – 3.5 m.

The construction took 60 linear meters boards 150x50mm.

Buryat member FORUMHOUSE

They are called "scaffolding - envelope".

DIY construction scaffolding

The design itself looks like the letter G attached to. A 150x50 board is taken as a basis, another board is nailed to it perpendicularly - a support platform, on which the flooring is then laid.
One of essential elements Such structures are jibs - boards 25-50x100, with which two main boards knocked together at right angles are sheathed on the sides.

Usually 3 jibs are nailed on each side. Thus, the rigidity of the entire structure is achieved.

Such forests do not need a rigid connection with the house. The force load is carried by the support board, which at one end rests against the place where the boards are attached, and at the other - the pointed end - is stuck into the ground.

If the house is wooden or frame, then scaffolding can be nailed to the wall. If the facade cannot be damaged, then they are leaned against the wall, and the main load is carried by the supporting board.

When choosing the size of “envelopes”, you should adhere to the following requirements. If the site is too narrow, it will be difficult and dangerous to walk on it. If the platform is too wide, then the “envelope” may come off the wall. Optimal size platforms – 400-500 mm.

The main advantage of attached structures is that their manufacture does not require a lot of lumber.

Buryat member FORUMHOUSE

The supporting board and, accordingly, the height of the scaffolding can be increased. If the length of the board increases (more than 6 m), then for the rigidity of the structure, another board rests in the corner between the wall and the blind area, the other end of which is attached to the middle of the first - the main board.

Despite the fact that the design is widely known, at the first glance at such structures you doubt their reliability - it’s scary to look at! Let's turn to practical experience users of our site.

Zark member FORUMHOUSE

We call such forests “Armenian”. When I first saw such a design, I was surprised at how it even held up. I tried it, climbed onto the flooring - quite reliably. I myself have used attached scaffolding more than once, both on wood and on brick house. They are convenient, quickly assembled and disassembled. They don't take up much space.

Armenian scaffolding.

Drosha member FORUMHOUSE

This type of forest is quite safe. There is no need to attach the boards to the walls, but the flooring must be screwed with self-tapping screws to the supports (do not knock it down with nails, so that you can quickly disassemble it later).

How to Build Scaffolding for Heavy Duty Work

But such “Armenian” scaffolding is not suitable for all work - mainly for light work. They are good as scaffolding for painting a house, etc. For “heavy” work that requires working with tools, solutions, finishing the facade with stone, etc. a more permanent structure must be used.

The assembly of the structure is done as follows:

• Take a six-meter board (150/200x50) and place it vertically against the wall;
• A second board is placed parallel to it;
• They are secured to each other by horizontal bars. Next, according to the same scheme, the second support is mounted and the flooring is laid;
• For greater rigidity, the racks are supported by additional brace boards that rest against the ground;
• As necessary, the scaffolding is increased in height by attaching additional vertical boards.

Standard dimensions of one span of such scaffolding:

• The step between the racks is 2-2.5 m;
• The width of the flooring for work is 1 m.

DIY wooden scaffolding.

diews FORUMHOUSE member

We made forests like this last summer. They were not attached to the wall. They placed only one wall at a time and then moved it. The main thing is to make braces and stops, and the structure will stand like a glove.

How to make scaffolding better: gpush against the screws

There is always a lot of controversy about how to put together scaffolding,
how to fasten the boards to each other. The opinions of forum members are divided: some believe that it can be assembled with self-tapping screws, others are categorically against it - only with nails.

The main argument of opponents of self-tapping screws is their fragility. The self-tapping screw does not work well under shock loads and shear loads. The result is that the cap flies off, the structure loses strength, even to the point of self-destruction.

How to build scaffolding for cladding a house.

Igor Kokhanov member of FORUMHOUSE

I recommend fastening everything with 120 mm nails with the obligatory bend of the tip on the crossbars and on the jibs. And no self-tapping screws! I'll tell you such a case. Builders I knew were doing the roof. They fastened the boards with self-tapping screws. The result is that the structures separated, all four of them flew from a height of five meters. The result is one in the hospital with broken kidneys. The second was a severe bruise to the leg. But they got off easily; if the altitude had been greater, everything could have ended much worse.

That's why this happened. The nail is made of relatively soft metal. Under load it bends and does not break. The self-tapping screw is made of hardened metal and under alternating and shock loads, it will first bend a little and then break. Moreover, the so-called “black” self-tapping screws, due to hardening, are much more brittle than anodized yellow ones.

For collapsible wooden structures, bolts with a hexagonal head (under a washer) with a diameter of 8 mm and special metal fasteners are well suited.

The main argument of opponents of nails is that it will no longer be possible to carefully disassemble the scaffolding that has been nailed together, and part of the good board will have to be thrown out or used for rough work. And the structural elements will be kept from shifting by the large friction force that occurs between the boards if you use self-tapping screws 120 - 150 mm long. Therefore, you need to make a compromise - use self-tapping screws to assemble scaffolding “on the ground”. In this case, if an error occurs at the first stage of scaffolding collection, they can be quickly disassembled and rebuilt. And only then additionally nail everything together properly.

If you decide to build a house, you can easily make scaffolding with your own hands. This design may be based on wood. Before starting work, it is important to know what the equipment will contain support posts, lintels, decking, stairs, and spacers. The last components should be located both vertically and horizontally. You should prefer wooden scaffolding; it will be much easier to make them yourself than metal ones. However, such scaffolding is not intended for significant loads. Afterwards, the structure can be disassembled and individual elements can be used for another purpose. However, reassembly is also possible, but the scaffolding will no longer be strong.

Features of assembling wooden scaffolding

If you decide to assemble scaffolding with your own hands, you will need to follow some rules. The design must be convenient to use, which is why a minimum distance of 2 m should be provided between the racks, while the maximum limit is equivalent to 2.5 meters. The width of the flooring should not be less than 1 meter. When choosing a height, you must be guided by a maximum limit of 6 meters. In order to make it convenient to work, you need to create a drawing.

Preparation of materials and tools

When making scaffolding with your own hands, it is important to initial stage prepare the entire set of tools and materials. Thus, it is impossible to do without timber square section with a side of 100 mm. You will also need boards; you need to select or purchase those that are 30 millimeters thick. Nails act as fasteners, but a tape measure will allow you to take measurements. It’s good if the master has it in stock circular saw. When choosing wood, you need to pay attention to dry and fairly dense lumber that is free of cracks. If you prefer raw wood, it will significantly make the structure heavier. Among other things, the structure may become deformed after drying. Due to the fact that the equipment is built only for a certain time, its elements do not need to be polished and treated with antiseptic compounds.

Working on the frame

If you are making scaffolding with your own hands, then at the initial stage you need to work on the frame, in which case four pieces of timber will be used, which need to be cut to the height of the scaffolding and laid on a flat, if possible, base. The next step will be manipulation, in which two beams should be used, each of which is four meters long. Two more elements should have a length of 3.6 meters. These elements should be nailed to the inside of the support beams. Smaller workpieces are strengthened along the upper edge, while larger ones are installed along the lower edge. As a result, you should get trapezoids, which are additionally fixed with diagonal struts.

Frame installation

If you make scaffolding yourself, then the next step is to lift the frames. They need to be installed vertically and temporarily fixed with sidewalls. The pitch between the lower edges of the racks should be equivalent to 1.15 meters. The distance between the upper edges should be 1 meter. It is important to analyze how correctly the side parts are positioned in relation to the horizontal surface. If everything turned out to be correct, then the frame can be knocked down with nails. The finished scaffolding should be shaped like a pyramid, and its side parts should be positioned strictly horizontally and made of timber.

Flooring installation

If you decide to make your own scaffolding from wood, you need to attach the boards that make up the flooring to the top bars, which are located across it. It is better to fix them according to the width of the frame. The elements should be laid closely, leaving no gaps at the joints. In the side parts of the frame, additional transversely located elements should be fixed, which can be conveniently used as a ladder.

An alternative option for manufacturing scaffolding

Do-it-yourself scaffolding made of wood can be made according to different technologies. You can use the one you developed yourself. Lumber should be prepared for work different sections and sizes. For example, horizontal flooring should be made of more massive boards, their thickness should be 50 millimeters. But the stiffeners can be made from boards, the thickness of which varies from 25 millimeters. Fence slats can have this parameter from 20 millimeters and above. Some experts still recommend treating wood with compounds against rotting and mold. This is true if you plan not only to build a house, but also other structures on the site. If you are thinking about how to make scaffolding with your own hands, then you can use the recommendations of a specialist. They advise making the end sides of the structure at a converging angle, which should increase the stability of the scaffolding. Among other things, these elements will not interfere with repair work.

Conclusion

It is advisable to make the load-bearing supports, which will be based on a beam with a cross-section of 10x10 cm, reinforced, since elements of a smaller cross-section reduce the strength of such a structure. When making scaffolding with your own hands, it is recommended to look at photos of such structures in advance. The minimum acceptable width is 50 centimeters. While the length can reach four meters. If the height recommended above is exceeded, there is a risk of the structure toppling over. If possible, it is recommended to stock up electric tools, otherwise the work will take quite a long time. When attaching the side parts to the support beams, you can use self-tapping screws. However, some masters do not advise doing this. If scaffolding is made from boards with your own hands, then safety is the most important requirement. This is due to the fact that similar designs can have quite an impressive height, falling from them can cause serious injury. That is why you should not save on lumber; you should purchase only high-quality and well-dried wood. Only by following these rules will it be possible to achieve an excellent result, which assumes the strength and reliability of the scaffolding. Such structures can be used even for more than one year, despite the fact that they will be subject to negative external influences.

During construction work outside and inside the premises (if they have high ceilings), scaffolding is often necessary - it is not necessary to make drawings of auxiliary structures with your own hands, but anyone can assemble them using a ready-made method.

Requirements for scaffolding for construction and repairs

Scaffolding is used very widely in construction and repair. Even ordinary DIY wall plaster without them it is not easy to carry out, and the installation of a roof or wall siding becomes completely a daunting task without auxiliary supporting structures. Of course, the mobility of stepladders or hastily knocked together trestle stools is higher, and their cost is noticeably lower.

But only solid-sized scaffolding will allow you not to be distracted by the constant movement of everything you need along the facade or wall being repaired. Saving time and effort, concentrating energy on repairs is the main benefit of scaffolding, homemade or purchased. The productivity of construction labor when using scaffolding increases several times - so their cost can be included in the column “payment for the speed and convenience of repairs.”

Any scaffolding structure must be reliable and durable - including taking into account the people, tools, construction and consumables. If there is even the slightest doubt that the scaffolding cannot be assembled with the proper margin of stability, it is better to purchase a ready-made, branded product in a specialized store. Moreover, the choice of such goods is quite diverse.

Classification of scaffolding

The term “scaffolding” itself is associated with the historical experience of decorating facades with plaster, stucco and painting during the construction of palaces and other elite buildings. For plasterers and finishers, multi-meter “shelves” were erected from real logs and platforms. After the completion of the work, all this material was spent on firewood, leaving to descendants only its name and the principle of construction.

Modern options are based on a frame and are designed with reusable use in mind. Structurally, scaffolding can be made in the following options:

• Pin scaffolding – from steel pipes, with welded curved fittings and socket locks. They are heavy and clumsy, requiring considerable time to assemble and move - but at the same time very durable. For example, stone or brickwork It’s best to do it with them. Pin scaffolding can be loaded with a large amount of heavy building materials, they are very stable and durable;
• Frame scaffolding made of light aluminum and/or steel alloys - made of pipes and stiffeners with reliable fixation of the structure into a durable frame. May have wheels for moving on flat ground. Great for plastering or balcony siding– when the weight of building materials is small, and the work involves rapid movement along (up and down) the object being repaired;
• Wedge scaffolding is a kind of symbiosis of frame and pin structures, combining the advantages of both. They can withstand heavy loads and are still mobile. The fastening units are made in the form of flanges with slots, which allows you to create polygonal and broken lines along complex facades.
• Clamp scaffolding is a universal structure with low load capacity for repair and restoration of curved facades;
• Suspended - well-known “cradles”, with the help of which facade glass is washed and tile joints are sealed. A structure can also be suspended between two stationary scaffolds without support from the ground.

Suspended, clamp and wedge options are only available for purchase; their independent “production” is not recommended. Pin or frame scaffolding, the drawings of which are given below, are assembled with your own hands if you have the appropriate carpentry and metalworking skills.

Scaffolding - do-it-yourself wood, step-by-step instructions

Wood is the easiest to process and at the same time inexpensive material- Creation wooden scaffolding fits into several repair stages, quite doable on your own. We will describe in detail how to make them from wooden beams, boards and slats.

How to make scaffolding with your own hands from wood - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: Selecting and preparing wood

The work will require several types of wood. The load-bearing supports are made of timber measuring 10x10 cm (a smaller cross-section will not allow heavy lifting from scaffolding construction work). Horizontal decking is made from thick boards (from 50 mm), stiffening ribs are made from boards from 25 mm thick. Fence slats with a thickness of 20 mm or more can be used. Wood for supports and platforms must be free of knots and cracks, and it should be treated with special compounds to prevent rotting and mold.

Step 2: Planning the Frame

The end sides of wooden scaffolding must be made at a converging angle - this will significantly increase the stability of the structure and will not be an obstacle when repairing walls.

In addition, it is advisable to choose load-bearing supports made of 10x10 cm timber as solid rather than composite ones - then the strength of the multi-story structure will be higher. Minimum allowed width homemade scaffolding made of wood is 50 cm, their length can be 3-4 meters. The height limit is considered to be 6 meters, otherwise there is a high risk of the scaffold overturning during work. To work, you will need standard woodworking tools - saws and hacksaws, a plane, a drill and a screwdriver.

Step 3: Frame Construction

Two beams no more than 6 meters high are laid on a flat horizontal surface, the distance between them is equal to the planned length of the scaffolding. The other two are placed side by side in exactly the same way. Upper part the beams should converge slightly upward for the stability of the entire structure. For a distance between supports of 4 meters along the length of the scaffolding down a convergence of 40-50 cm is enough up. That is, if the center-to-center distance between the support beams at the bottom is exactly four meters, then at the top it is set at 3.5-3.6 meters. The result is two symmetrical wooden trapezoids.

The timber sidewalls are screwed to the support beams with self-tapping screws. They will serve as supports for the working decks, so they are mounted from the inside. In general, wooden scaffolding self-made can have no more than three “assembly floors”, so there will be only four sidewalls made of timber. Three correspond to the levels of the scaffolding, and the lower one serves for strength; it is fixed 20-30 cm from the ground.

Step 4: Making a volumetric frame

To connect the side trapezoids into solid scaffolding, you will need an assistant (or better yet, two). It is difficult to perform this operation alone, and the accuracy of the docking will certainly suffer. The side cross members are prepared in advance, and they will be of different lengths. The point is that sustainable scaffolding should be pyramidal in both width and length. The required convergence angle is small, otherwise an inconvenient gap will appear between the upper part of the scaffolding and the facade being repaired. Let's say, for a width of 1 meter, an upper clearance of 85-90 cm will be sufficient.

Having installed the wooden sides vertically and slightly tilting them towards each other, long screws We attach the side cross members. The use of screws is preferable because after repair and construction work the scaffolding can be disassembled (partially or completely) and stored in a shed or garage.

Step 5: Final and Additional

All that remains is to nail the decking boards and fencing above each platform to the cross beams. On the sides of the scaffolding you can add additional crossbars that will serve as ladders. It is also useful to make a knot in the form of a retractable pin above each support for attaching the scaffolding to earthen soil– on flat surfaces it is removed, and the entire structure stands on the cuts of the end beams.