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How to properly plant watermelons outdoors. Watermelon is a sugar berry. How to grow a watermelon in the country on your own. Procedure for transfer work

It has become common practice for gardeners to grow watermelon. The process is simple, but it has certain difficulties that need to be taken into account when growing (the plant may die before flowering begins, the fruits do not always grow tasty, and so on). More information about how to grow a watermelon with your own hands will be discussed in this article.

The issue of choosing a variety should be approached with special responsibility. For middle zone In the Russian Federation, it is advisable to choose only early-ripening varieties, and there is no need to chase huge fruits in this matter - such watermelons realize their potential 100% only when grown in the south of the country. Be sure to read the description of the variety on the packaging - information about the duration of ripening is indicated there (plant ovaries should ripen as quickly as possible).

Note! You can neglect some qualities when choosing a variety. First of all, it is large-fruited and transportable. Also, do not pay attention to the color and shape of the fruit - this is only necessary in cases where you grow watermelons not for yourself, but for sale.

The most common varieties of watermelon:

• "Kai"
• "Sugar Baby";
• "Ataman F1";
• "Ultra-early";
• "Stokes";
• "Spark";
• "Moscow Charleston F1";
• "Yarilo";
• "Crimstar F1";
• "Leader";
• "Pink champagne F1";
• "Gift to the North F1".

This is only a small part of the varieties that can be grown not only in the south of the country, but most often people choose them. Having decided on the variety of watermelon, you can start growing it.

How to grow watermelon in open ground

Not everyone knows, but watermelons can be grown without seedlings, but with seeds, already at permanent place. Often, seedlings are used only for further replanting in greenhouses so that the watermelon can ripen. But if you are growing watermelon in your garden plot, then you can safely skip the stage with seedlings and sow the seeds.

The planting process is divided into several preparatory stages to get a good harvest. Let's consider each of them separately.

Preparation of seed material

Having chosen the appropriate variety, wrap the seeds in a cloth bandage and place them on a shallow plate, pouring a pre-prepared solution of potassium permanganate. The solution should be light pink and warm. After this, the saucer with the seeds must be placed in plastic bag and tie it, taking in some air. Transfer the plate with the seed to a warm room (at least +20°C). Change the solution daily and ventilate the bag. After 2-3 days, the seeds should hatch, after which they will be ready for planting in the ground.

Soil preparation

It is very important to prepare the land before planting a watermelon. This is an integral part of growing, without which you are unlikely to be able to get a good harvest. The prepared soil should provide the plants with nutrients throughout the entire growth period, it should be protected from strong winds, and also well lit.

Watermelon, as well as other melons, requires loose, fertile and light soil. Great if on yours suburban area sandy loam or sandy soil, which you enriched with rotted humus back in autumn period. If we talk about suitable predecessors of watermelons, then these are, of course, cruciferous vegetables, as well as legumes.

For best results, it is advisable to prepare the beds in advance and fertilize the soil. To do this, for 1 sq. m of plot you need to add 20 g of potassium fertilizers, 40 g and 30 g of ammonium sulfate. This combination of mineral fertilizers will significantly accelerate the growth of watermelon, as a result of which you will be able to enjoy juicy and sweet fruits a little earlier.

Sowing watermelon seeds

The process of planting watermelon seeds is simple and practically no different from planting any other crop.

Table. Step by step instructions for sowing watermelon seeds.

Steps, photo	Description of actions
	Start sowing watermelon seeds in early May as it is a very heat-loving plant. Otherwise, if you do this earlier, the plant will greatly slow down in development. Take out pre-prepared seed material that has already sprouted.
	You should also have a planting mixture ready, consisting of rotted humus, ash, mineral fertilizers and peat (the composition may vary, since there are many different recipes for preparing the mixture).
	Dig a large hole for the watermelon and fill it with a large number water.
	Pour the prepared mixture of fertilizers and humus into the hole. Gently level with a hoe and water.
	Place at least 5 seeds in the hole (5 cm deep) and cover it all with soil. The layer of soil should be approximately 4 cm thick. Carefully compact the soil so that the seeds are not blown away by the wind or are injured. Repeat the procedure for each well.

Important! At first, you need to sow 5-6 seeds in each hole, but over time, when they begin to develop, leave one plant in the hole.

Aftercare

Without providing proper care, including fertilizing and watering, it is impossible to grow a watermelon in the garden. The juiciness of the fruit directly depends on the level of humidity, but you shouldn’t overdo it, because you won’t be able to enjoy the sugar pulp of sweet berries, which everyone loves so much. Conventionally, subsequent care can be divided into 4 stages: watering, fertilizing, pruning vines and exterminating pests. Let's consider each of them separately.

Watering

When growing watermelons in a summer cottage, it is advisable to use. This will allow for regular fertilizing of crops.

The best option is drip irrigation

Watermelons need abundant but infrequent watering, especially during hot periods when there is a lack of natural moisture - remember this! For comfortable growth of watermelons, the soil moisture level should be at least 80%. If the site is located on sandy soil, then the beds will need to be watered more often due to poor moisture retention. Water clayey soils and black soil less often. Once the berries begin to ripen and become plump, reduce the amount of watering, and after a few weeks, stop them altogether.

Top dressing

Feeding watermelons grown in a summer cottage consists of three procedures, each of which must be performed subject to certain conditions: at least 2 liters of liquid fertilizers must be per plant. After 7 days from the moment of planting the seeds, it is necessary to regularly water the plants with a special solution prepared with your own hands (all ingredients and their proportions were described above).

After the vines on the plants actively begin to grow, you need to fertilize the watermelons a second time, but this time the amount of potassium and phosphorus fertilizers should be half as much. When the formation of the ovaries begins, you need to carry out another feeding, only with a different composition. Mix 10 liters of water, 35 g of potassium salts, 10 g of superphosphate and 20 g of ammonium sulfate.

Apply the prepared nutrient mixture into previously prepared furrows, which should be at a distance of 15 cm from the plant bushes. Quantity nitrogen fertilizers should be reduced due to the likelihood of their accumulation in the pulp of watermelons. In addition, such measures can provoke the ripening of the plant, and not the accumulation of green mass.

Trimming lashes

During the short and insufficiently warm summer, some watermelon fruits do not have time to ripen, although the bush still spends energy on them, which could be distributed to other berries that actually ripen. Therefore, there should be no more than 5 watermelons on each plant. Remove everything unnecessary.

Important! When growing watermelons, you need to remember that female flowers are formed on the main vine of the plant - you cannot touch them, but remove the side vines. Compliance with all recommendations will allow you to get a harvest in the second half of August.

Pest Control

The melon aphid, which appears in June, can cause many problems for watermelons. Living on the underside of the leaves, it sucks all the vital juices from the plant, causing the leaves to wrinkle and dry. During the summer, aphids can produce 2-3 generations. At first, the pests live only on weeds, but with the onset of June, the females move to watermelons, remaining there until the beginning of autumn. The melon aphid lays its eggs on weeds, which overwinter there.

To protect watermelons from aphids, it is advisable to regularly weed the beds from various weeds, as well as mow the areas located next to the watermelons being grown. If you notice pests, immediately treat the plants with a special decoction or infusion prepared from celandine, garlic or onion peels. If these remedies do not help and the foliage system of the plants is severely damaged, then strong chemicals- for example, INTA-VIR, Karbofos, Iskra.

In addition to aphids, watermelons can be subject to various diseases, such as sclerotinia, bacteriosis, verdigris, various types of rot, and so on. For treatment, you need to prepare a decoction of horsetail. To do this, pour 1 liter of water into 1 tbsp. l. plants and simmer over low heat for 15 minutes. As an alternative, you can use another remedy - milk mixed with iodine. If the plants have been severely affected, use Kuprosat or Oxychloride. The development of Fusarium wilt can cause the plant to die within a few days. The spread of infection occurs through plant debris, seeds or soil.

To prevent watermelon from developing diseases, it is advisable to treat the seeds with Baktofit solution for 3 hours before planting. If some plants are nevertheless damaged by the disease, then they need to be destroyed in order to protect healthy ones from infection, which, in turn, need to be fed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

Harvest

Fruit harvesting is the final stage in the process of growing watermelons. It is not recommended to rush into this matter, because many of the fruits that have reached large sizes, are still immature. Ripe tomatoes can be identified by the change in color of the fruit; when growing zucchini and cucumbers, it is important not to be late in harvesting, otherwise the vegetables may lose their beneficial properties. But when should you pick watermelons? When planting early ripening varieties, you can get a harvest no earlier than mid-August. Mass harvesting is not carried out during this period; the ripeness of the berries must be determined by external signs. First of all, look at the bract and tendrils - if they are dry, then the watermelon can be harvested. Also, when you lightly tap the berry with your fingers, dull sounds should be heard. The combination of these signs indicates the ripeness of the fruit.

If you are growing watermelons for further transportation and storage, it is better to pick the berries a couple of days before ripening. They will then ripen by being kept in a warm and dry environment. At the same time, watermelons will not lose their qualities.

Video - Growing watermelons with seedlings

In recent years, a huge number of hybrids and varieties of watermelon have appeared that are suitable for cultivation in open ground conditions not only in the southern regions, but also in cold climates. To grow melons and melons in your dacha, you need to put in a lot of effort and skill. The secrets of preparing seeds, planting and caring for seedlings will help you realize your dream, the result of which will be a large and sweet watermelon.

Site preparation

Choosing a place - important stage planting a watermelon, which largely determines its further growth and productivity:

• Watermelon loves places with a lot of light; in shady conditions it develops poorly and will not be able to produce high yields. For planting, sunny areas are allocated that must be protected from the wind;
• due to its highly developed root system, watermelons are highly drought-resistant; planting in places with close groundwater is unacceptable;
• for cultivating melons and melons, light sandy loam or sandy soils with neutral acidity. In areas with acidic soil, watermelon produces small fruits that crack while still green.

These plants are undemanding to soil fertility; they grow well both on black soil and on poor sandy and rocky soils. However, to obtain large yields, well-cultivated areas are needed. To do this, in the fall, the future planting site is dug up and fertilizers are applied:

• superphosphate, azofoska (according to instructions);
• wood ash (1 l);
• humus (5 l).

The calculation is given for 1 m2 of plot area. Applying fertilizers before planting eliminates the need for regular fertilizing during the growing season of the plant.

For watermelon you need to choose a well-lit place

Step-by-step instructions for planting a watermelon

In order for the preparation and planting of watermelon seeds to proceed correctly, the following steps should be followed.

Seed selection

This is a crucial period of preparation for sowing watermelon, as it largely determines the success of growing and obtaining fruit. The variety of varieties and hybrids allows you to choose the plant most adapted to the growing conditions in your region. Watermelons can differ among themselves in large or small fruits, the speed of their ripening, and have different resistance to diseases.

Pre-sowing seed preparation

Preparing seeds for sowing is an important stage in the cultivation of vegetable crops, especially in home cultivation, since in conditions of limited space the requirements for plant selection increase.

Calibration

Sorting seeds by size allows you to select the best ones and discard small and damaged ones. Selection is usually carried out manually: seed material is scattered over a smooth surface and divided into large, medium and small. Large seeds, as a rule, contain a large supply of nutrients, which will subsequently provide the plants with good growth and high yield.

The largest seeds are selected for sowing

Warming up and soaking

Warming and soaking increases the rate of biochemical reactions in cells, which improves seed germination and the formation of more female flowers, good growth and the development of lashes.

Procedure:

1. The seed material is poured into a fabric bag and immersed in warm water (50–60°C) for 2–3 hours.
2. Then it is transferred for half an hour for disinfection into a slightly warmed weak solution of potassium permanganate.
3. Remove the bag and allow excess moisture to drain.
4. The seeds are laid on damp sand, cotton or paper and left in a warm room. They are kept at room temperature for about 2 days until the seedlings appear.

If you bought treated seeds, they cannot be soaked and should be planted directly into the ground.

Germinating watermelon seeds for planting open ground or for seedlings

Hardening

To increase the resistance of plants to sudden temperature fluctuations and to obtain an earlier and more abundant harvest, seeds are hardened. Most often, seed material is affected in two ways:

• exposure to constant low temperature. For 1–2 days, the swollen and hatched watermelon seeds are kept in the refrigerator at a temperature of 0±1°C with periodic stirring. Such hardening can also be carried out by burying the seed in a small box or bag in the snow;
• exposure to variable temperature. The swollen seeds are kept in the refrigerator for about 12 hours at a temperature not lower than 6°C, then they should be kept warm for the same period of time at a temperature of 18–20°C. The procedure is repeated three times.

Before sowing, the seeds are slightly dried.

Selection of containers and soil

To avoid further transplantation or picking, the seeds are sown in separate pots or containers with a volume of at least 300 ml (minimum container height - 12 cm, diameter - 10 cm). Prepared for planting soil mixture, into which sand is added in equal proportions, sod land and peat. Add to 5 liters of prepared soil:

• dolomite flour and potassium sulfate (50 g);
• double superphosphate (100 g);
• ammonium nitrate (50 g).

Seedling containers are filled with the mixture so that about 3 cm remains between the surface of the soil and the edge of the pot. As the plants grow, soil can be added to the pot.

To avoid further transplantation or picking, the seeds are sown in separate pots.

Sowing watermelon seeds

To know how to plant a watermelon correctly depending on climatic conditions, sowing is done through seedlings or directly into open ground.

Sowing seeds for seedlings

The best time for planting is mid to late April. Sprouted seeds with a root of 1–1.5 cm are sown to a depth of 3 cm, 4–5 pieces in each container, sprinkled with earth on top, watered and covered with glass or film. The pots are placed at the most bright window, preferably southern.

It is important that there are no drafts in the room.

Sprouted seeds with a root of 1–1.5 cm are sown to a depth of 3 cm, 4–5 pieces in each container.

Planting seeds in open ground

Prepared seeds can be sown directly into open ground only in southern regions with a warm climate. The optimal time for planting is when the air temperature is between 12–14°C and the soil has warmed to a depth of 10 cm. It is best to sow in the last ten days of May, at which time the likelihood of cold weather is significantly reduced. In cold soil, the germination time of seeds increases, as a result of which the seedlings may die or become infected with pathogenic microflora. To plant a watermelon, prepare a hole with a diameter of about 1 m and a depth of at least 30 cm, add into it:

• humus or compost (1 kg);
• ash (1 tbsp.);
• nitroammophosphate (1 tsp);
• Add additional sand to heavy soil and mix everything.

Sprouted watermelon seeds are sown in the prepared holes. Before this, approximately 2 liters of water are poured onto the seed planting site. After it is absorbed, 4–5 seeds are laid out at a depth of 3–6 cm, the hole is covered with earth and compacted. The bed is not watered after sowing. To avoid the appearance of a crust, which makes it difficult for sprouts to emerge to the surface, the soil is mulched with humus.

Young seedlings need a lot of water, so they are watered generously as the soil dries, but not more than once every 7 days. The required depth of soil moisture is at least 25–30 cm. Soon after the sprouts appear, the first thinning is carried out, leaving the strongest plants; in the phase of 3–4 true leaves, the procedure is repeated. As a result, 1-2 plants should remain in the hole.

Watermelon grown by direct seeding in the ground is more resistant to stress, including drought and temperature changes, but the crop will always ripen later than that of a seedling crop.

A hole for sowing watermelon seeds in open ground is prepared with a diameter of about 1 m, the soil in it is mixed with humus and mineral fertilizers to a depth of about 30 cm

Seedling care

In order for plants in pots to grow and develop well, they are provided with optimal conditions:

• The daytime temperature should be about 25°C, at night it is reduced to 20°C. Under such conditions, sprouts will appear in 7–10 days;
• the required daylight hours are at least 12 hours. Lack of lighting contributes to the elongation of seedlings and can cause their death; on cloudy days, it is recommended to illuminate the plants with a phytolamp;
• after the seedlings have sprouted, the weak ones are removed, leaving one sprout;
• watering the seedlings is carried out in several stages, avoiding water getting on the leaves;
• in the phase of 3 true leaves, the plant is fed with fermented mullein mixed with water in a ratio of 1:10 (or liquid complex fertilizer).

If you follow these rules, the seedlings will grow strong and healthy and will easily take root in a new place.

After culling weak seedlings, one plant should remain in the pot

Transplanting seedlings into open ground

By the time the seedlings are transplanted to the garden bed, they are 30–35 days old, and the plant has formed at least 4 leaves. 10 days before transplanting to the site, the seedlings are hardened: they are taken out into the open air, increasing the residence time every day. 3-4 days before planting in the ground, the plants are kept in the open air, and in the evening before transplanting they are watered abundantly.

After hardening, watermelon seedlings become more resistant to temperature fluctuations.

In mid-June, the plants are planted in a permanent place. Transplantation is carried out in the morning: the watermelon along with the earthen lump is removed from the container, planted in a hole, then watered and covered with film. The root collar of the seedlings is not buried.

After planting the seedlings, the earthen ball should be completely covered with soil, the root collar of the watermelon is left open

Video: transplanting watermelon seedlings into open ground

Watermelon planting time according to the lunar calendar for 2020

In order for the plant to grow and develop well, it is important not only to prepare the soil, but also to choose the right time for planting. Vegetable growers often resort to the lunar calendar. Favorable dates for 2020:

• Planting on March 3, 10 and 11 will have the most positive effect on the growth of melons;
• in April, favorable times for planting seedlings are the 9th, 15th and 23rd;
• in May, it is recommended to plant watermelons on the 13th, 14th and 20th;
• landing garden crops undesirable on new and full moon days:
  • April 8 and 25,
  • May 7 and 22.

Planting pattern and depth

There are different schemes When planting watermelons in open ground, their choice is influenced by:

• cultivation method (watering or without artificial irrigation). Plants grown without watering take up less space, so they can be placed more densely;
• watermelon variety (early or late ripening);
• estimated fetal weight (3–5 kg or more than 8 kg). The higher the planting density of watermelons, the smaller the fruits will grow.

When planting watermelons, take into account that the plants grow widely and should not interfere with each other:

• in the garden bed, early varieties are placed at a distance of 1.4x1.4 m or 1.4x0.7 m;
• watermelons of mid-ripening and late-ripening varieties are planted according to a 2x2 m pattern; 2.1x1.4 m; 2.1x1 m.

The smaller number shows the distance between plants when planting, the larger number - between the rows.

The higher the planting density of watermelons, the smaller the fruits will grow.

The depth of planting seed in open ground can vary from 3 to 8 cm and depends on:

• on their size (the smaller the seed, the shallower the planting depth);
• type of soil (incorporation is deeper on light soils than on heavy soils);
• soil moisture (seeds are placed on a moist layer).

The seedlings are planted a little deeper than when growing in a pot, so that the root collar is not damaged by winds.

Neighbors and predecessors

To be guaranteed to receive good harvest melons, you need not only to follow the planting rules, but also to know about the compatibility of plants with each other:

• Watermelon does not tolerate gusty winds well. To create shelter, corn, peas or beans are planted around the area;
• all members of the pumpkin family, including watermelon, are compatible with black radish plantings. This plant secretes phytoncides that prevent the appearance of spider mites;
• an excellent neighbor of watermelon is melon;
• it is well compatible with potatoes and oat root;
• corn and peas improve the growth and taste of watermelons;
• sow thistle and pigweed promote the growth of melon plants;
• watermelon grows well next to greenery plantings (parsley is an exception);
• Tomato phytoncides drive away aphids, sawflies and moths.

All representatives of melons grow very strongly, so it is better to plant crops next to them that give an early harvest.

Planting some plants next to a watermelon negatively affects its growth and productivity, so you need to approach the choice of neighbors responsibly:

• melons grow well in open, sunny areas, so they are not planted next to trees and shrubs that shade the area;
• watermelon does not like the proximity of strawberries and representatives of nightshades (potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, peppers);
• it extracts large amounts from the soil minerals, therefore, growing watermelon next to beets, carrots, garlic and radishes is not recommended;
• Watermelons should not be planted together with related plants - pumpkins or zucchini, as well as cucumbers.

An important agrotechnical technique is crop rotation. When alternating melons and melons at intervals of 3–4 years, the number of pests and diseases, as well as weeds, is significantly reduced in the field. It is not recommended to grow watermelon in one field for more than 2 years in a row; the optimal predecessors for it are:

• winter wheat,
• perennial herbs,
• corn for green fodder,
• radish,
• dill,
• basil,
• tomatoes,
• celery,
• roots,
• cabbage.

It is strictly not recommended to plant melons in an area where melons, squash or zucchini previously grew. After harvesting the watermelon fruits, it is better to plant this area with legumes (green beans, peas) or garlic.

Methods for planting watermelons on the site

Depending on the climatic conditions of the region and the availability of free space, watermelons are grown in different ways.

In a bucket

In this way, watermelon can be grown at home. To do this, first seedlings are grown in a small pot. Further work carried out like this:

1. Prepare a bucket with a volume of 16 liters (you can wooden box size 50x50x30 cm).
2. The container is filled with fertile soil with neutral acidity, mixed with perlite in a ratio of 2:1. This will protect the soil from stagnant water.
3. After the third true leaf appears on the seedlings, the plant along with the earthen ball is transplanted into a bucket.
4. The optimal daytime temperature is 25–30°C, night temperature is 18–20°C. Such conditions are created in spring and summer on a closed balcony.
5. Watering should be moderate; watermelon does not like waterlogging.
6. The soil is fertilized every 2 weeks. Suitable for this liquid fertilizers for vegetables (add 1 tsp of fertilizer to 1 liter of water). Only fresh solution is prepared for irrigation.
7. At the stage of ovary formation, a second feeding is carried out with an increased content of potassium and phosphorus, and after 2–3 weeks - a third.
8. The side shoots of the watermelon are pinched, leaving only the main shoot.
9. During the flowering phase of watermelon, artificial pollination is carried out: male flowers with stamens are picked, the petals are removed and the female flowers (with a thickening at the bottom) are pollinated, touching the pistils with the stamens.
10. After fruit set, no more than two berries are left on the plant, the rest are removed.
11. Fruits about 10 cm in size are placed in a net and tied to a support.

After about three months, you can harvest a harvest of delicious berries weighing about 1 kg.

According to the author, this method can be considered more as a hobby than a way to obtain delicious berries. In apartment conditions, it is unlikely to provide the plant with optimal temperature conditions, except perhaps on the balcony during the hot summer. A watermelon grown at home is unlikely to delight you with the aroma and sweetness of the pulp. For those who decide to experiment, I advise you to make a drainage hole at the bottom of the container to protect the roots from waterlogging. And to determine whether a watermelon needs watering, it is recommended to slightly lift the bucket with the plant, basing its weight on the soil moisture.

On the trellis

In the southern regions, melon plants are cultivated in open ground, in which case they do not require staking. When grown in northern regions with a cool and humid climate, trellises can be used. This is especially true for small areas where there is little light and moisture stagnation is likely. In such places it is recommended to grow watermelons of small-fruited hybrids and varieties:

1. On both sides of the beds, a support at least 1.5 m high is dug in, and ropes or twine are pulled between them.
2. Other ropes are tied to the stretched ropes, which go down to the plants and serve as a support for the watermelon stems, determining the direction of growth.
3. The end of the lowered rope is secured to the stem of the plant or to the ground.
4. The main stem is tied in a vertical direction, the top is not pinched. All side shoots are removed, since female flowers are formed mainly on the main stem.
5. The grown fruits are placed in nets, then individually tied to a trellis so that they do not fall under their own weight.

With the formation of 2–3 fruits the size of chicken egg the remaining ovaries are removed, since more watermelons will not have time to ripen.

The trellis is relevant for small areas where there is little light and moisture stagnation is likely.

Under covering material

Cultivating watermelons under covering material has now become especially popular. The additional costs of film are offset by the advantages of this technology, including:

• protection of seedlings from weeds in the early stages of growth in open ground;
• reduction of daily temperature fluctuations;
• accumulation and retention of soil moisture.

The use of covering material allows you to shorten the period of fruit ripening by 7–10 days. This method is especially relevant in short or humid summers and can be used in several ways:

Spunbond can be used to cover plants directly along the vines, protecting them from possible frosts.

Features of planting watermelons in different regions

Watermelon - heat-loving crop, which requires a fairly long growing season. This should be taken into account when cultivating in regions with different climatic conditions.

In the southern regions (southern Ukraine, Krasnodar region, Transcaucasian republics), watermelons are traditionally grown in an open way, which is facilitated by a large number of warm and sunny days necessary for the plant’s vegetation and rapid development of the fruit. After preparing for sowing, the seeds are planted directly in open ground.

In the northern regions of Ukraine, the amount of heat is not enough for the fruits to ripen, so watermelon seedlings are first grown.

In regions with a moderately cold and harsh climate (Leningrad region, Moscow region, Siberia, Far East), the watermelon harvest will always be moderate. To obtain it, you must strictly follow some rules:

• Only early ripening varieties are chosen for planting;
• to ensure acceptable temperatures, watermelons are grown in greenhouses, and in the middle zone - also in open ground under a film (in the spread);
• planting is done through seedlings in pots;
• so that the roots grow wider, the plants are watered not at the root, but along the grooves dug in the middle of the row spacing;
• No more than 5-6 fruits are left on one plant; to obtain large berries - 1-2 fruits; a board is placed under each one so that they do not rot in cool conditions.

For cultivation in northern regions Only early ripening varieties of watermelons are chosen:

• for the Moscow region:
  • Sugar Baby
  • Crimson Sweet,
  • Skorik,
  • Light,
  • Producer,
  • Astrakhansky,
  • Top gun
  • Chill;
• for the Leningrad region:
  • Kharkovsky,
  • Light,
  • Rose of the Southeast,
  • Skorospelka;
• for the Urals - the same varieties as for the Moscow region, as well as:
  • Pink Champagne F1,
  • Gift to the North F1,
  • Creamstar;
• for Siberia and the Far East:
  • Crimson Wonder,
  • Crimson Sweet,
  • Ultra early,
  • Light,
  • Siberian.

The average period of fruit ripening for the middle zone is about 70–80 days, the fruits are medium-sized – from 2 kg to 4–6 kg.

Hard work and knowledge on planting and caring for watermelons will definitely reward you with delicious and healthy berries. You can grow watermelon even in the northern regions, you just need to choose the right variety and take the time to make a shelter.

Watermelon is a heat-loving plant of the pumpkin family. With good care, this crop rewards its owner with excellent quality watermelons. When buying this melon crop at the market or in a store, there is always the possibility of buying a low-quality, unsweetened or even dangerous product.

Therefore, the most the best way getting tasty ripe watermelons is to grow them yourself. Delicious watermelons grow only when correct selection, site preparation, plant care from the very beginning until harvest.

How to grow watermelon in the country

Selecting a location and preparing the bed

When choosing a place to plant watermelons, it is best to immediately determine the acidity of the soil. The optimal indicator for this is 7. The place should be sunny, away from trees, bushes and always on a warm, southern side. The soil should not be dense and clayey. The best predecessors are onions, cabbage, and legumes.

It is best to prepare the land in advance, in the fall. The planting site after the predecessor needs to be dug up and rotted humus scattered. For better harvest Next year you can make a layer cake from humus, hay, earth and sand. In the spring, the beds are dug up again and leveled with a rake.
If it was not possible to prepare the bed in the fall, then this can be done after the snow melts in early spring. The soil is dug up and covered with rotted humus.

Growing through seedlings

In regions with short summers, watermelons need to be grown from seedlings.
To get a guaranteed tasty harvest, you need to choose high-quality seeds that are suitable this region. In any case, you need to choose from early hybrids.
When calculating the timing, you need to take into account that seedlings after germination should be planted after 25 days. Seed germination takes up to 10 days (usually 3-5 days). Taking these indicators into account, the planting time is calculated.

Seeds are sown in mid-April. By mid-May, seedlings can be planted in open ground.

It takes root rather poorly, for this reason each plant is planted separately in pots.

To sow seeds, you need to take liter peat pots or plastic cups of the same volume.

You can make the soil yourself or buy ready-made soil. Take humus, peat, soil, river sand(in the same ratio) and 0.5 kilograms of wood ash per 20 kilograms of the mixture. Ready-made mixtures should be suitable for growing pumpkin plants.

Before sowing, watermelon seeds are soaked for half a day in warm water with the addition of potassium permanganate. Or they germinate for about 3 days after treatment in a manganese solution.

2 watermelon seeds are buried 2 centimeters in a pot with moistened soil.
Pots with seeds are covered with film. When shoots appear, the film is removed.

The seedlings are installed on the windowsill on the south side. To prevent the seedlings from stretching out, the temperature in the room is kept at no more than 24 degrees. 4 - 6 days after germination, all weak shoots are removed.

In order for the seedlings to grow faster, a lamp with daylight is installed nearby for 12 hours a day (turns on in the morning and evening). Watering is done every other day with water heated to 25 degrees.

A crust should not form on the surface of the soil!

Plants should be fertilized one and a half weeks after the first shoots appear. Take 10 parts of warm water, part of mullein, add a tablespoon of superphosphate, 2 teaspoons of ammonium nitrate, stir and water. The second feeding should be done a week after transplanting the seedlings.

When watering, fertilizers diluted with water should not get on the plants, otherwise burns may occur.

Before planting, the seedlings are hardened off. The intensity of watering seedlings decreases. A gradual decrease in temperature or daily ventilation is carried out. Watering of plants should be stopped 3 days before transplanting.

When and how to plant in open ground

If 5 main leaves appear on the plants, then the seedlings can be replanted. The soil temperature when planting watermelon seedlings should be at least 12 degrees.

The seedlings are planted in prepared holes. The distance from each hole should be 50 by 70 centimeters, between rows 2.5 meters. As the lashes grow, they are distributed between the rows.

The seedlings are planted in a hole from a pot with a lump of earth and covered in a circle with earth and watered thoroughly. At first, for better rooting, plants can be covered with spunbond at night.

Video about planting watermelon seedlings

Growing under film

When growing seedlings under film, seeds can be sown in March. If seedlings are planted from pots, the temperature of the soil under the film should not be below 12 degrees. The best time For this purpose, the middle - end of April is considered.

To grow under film, the film must be two-layer. The film is pre-stretched along the pits or grooves. The first layer is laid on the ground, holes 8-10 centimeters long are made for plant growth. When growing seedlings, the film should not touch the plants. For the second layer, arcs are installed on the beds, the film is laid down and secured on top.

The first layer of film will warm the soil, retain moisture and prevent weeds from growing around the watermelons. For uniform watering you can use drip system. Instead of the first layer of film during standard watering, you can use a special moisture-permeable material.

As plants grow, the second layer of film should rise above the surface and allow the plants to grow freely.
When warm weather sets in, the shelter is removed.

Care, formation of watermelons, feeding

After planting the seedlings, they need to be fertilized a week later. Plants need to be watered once a week with settled water.

30 grams of ammonium sulfate, 20 grams of potassium salt, 50 grams of superphosphate are added to 10 liters of water. No more than 2 liters of fertilizing solution are used per plant.

Half a month before the fruits ripen, fertilizing should be stopped.

When the fifth leaf is fully formed, the growing point on the plants must be removed. When the first ovaries appear on the plants, the largest berry on the vine, reaching the size of a plum (5 centimeters), is left, and the rest are removed.

There should be no more than 6 fruits left on one plant. After the berry, 4 leaves are counted, and the ends of the lash are pinched off. Scourges that grow beyond the boundaries of the beds must be removed.

A large harvest directly depends on timely pollination, and when growing indoors, the film must be raised per day during flowering. Otherwise, pollination will have to be done independently, connecting the male ovaries with the stigmas of the female ovaries.

Diseases and pests

When watering, do not touch the plants, otherwise pests and diseases may appear. Watering is done along the edges of the pot and directly into the soil.

Unfortunately, melons and melons are very susceptible to diseases and pests.

Fusarium, powdery mildew, bacteriosis, botrytis, olive spot, anthracno When manifestations occur, they should be treated with colloidal sulfur, Bordeaux mixture, and zineb.

Spider mite, wireworm, melon aphid and many other pests damage and even lead to their death. To control pests, you need to use Keltan, Karbofos, Phosfamide and others.

When white putrefactive spots (sclerotinia) appear on the plant, the infected parts are removed. Rotten places are sprinkled with lime and ash. Plantings are sprayed with a 5 percent solution of copper sulfate.

When black rot appears, diseased parts of the plant are removed. The remaining plantings are treated with a solution of copper chloride.

For root rot, watering is reduced, the plants are sprayed with 0.1 percent foundationazole.

To prevent watermelons from becoming infected with diseases or pests, weeds must be removed promptly.

How to determine ripeness?

When harvesting, you need to choose the right ripe fruits. Volumetric ripening of watermelons occurs in mid-August.

• A ripe berry becomes shiny and stops growing.
• The side on which the fruit lay should have a yellowish color.
• You can squeeze the watermelon a little and hear a slight crackling of the pulp.
• When tapped, a ringing, clear sound is heard.
• A ripe watermelon is light and does not sink in water.
• The tail should be dry, without hair.
• When running your fingernail over the bark, the top layer should come off easily.

Who grows watermelons?

Professionals who grow watermelons are called “melon growers.” And they grow their watermelons in melon fields.

Bakhchevod is a specialist in melon growing.

Melon growing- this is the cultivation of watermelons, melons, pumpkins and this is also a branch of agriculture.

This profession has become widespread in the southern regions of our country, and in the central zone, the Moscow region, the Urals, and Siberia, watermelons are grown by amateur gardeners on their plots.

Peculiarities of cultivation in the Moscow region, the middle zone, the Urals, and Siberia.

Previously, watermelons could only be found in the southern regions, but now they are grown in the Moscow region, the Middle Zone, the Urals, and Siberia.

The main feature of growing watermelons in these regions is the seedling method.

Seeds are selected according to the region, this will allow you to get a rich harvest and enjoy your watermelons. The variety must be early ripening. For better endurance, hybrids are selected.

In the spring, the planted seedlings are covered with any covering material at night, or they grow under a film and are ventilated during the day. To protect plants from winds, beans, corn, and spinach are planted nearby.

It is better not to water watermelons 2 weeks before harvest, this will speed up ripening and increase the sugar content of the fruit.

You shouldn’t expect very large fruits, but 2 or even 4 kilograms can be easily obtained.
When planting ready-made seedlings, you can get watermelons almost a month earlier.

Video about growing watermelons in the Middle Zone

As you can see, growing watermelons is quite accessible to everyone. If you wish, you can grow excellent berries in open ground.

It’s probably rare to meet a person who doesn’t like watermelons. However, not all of us have a plot to grow our favorite fruits and vegetables. This is the main reason why people are interested in how to grow watermelon at home.

Not everyone knows, but you can grow watermelons without using seedlings, but immediately in a permanent place. As a rule, seedlings are used to later transplant plants into a greenhouse. Garden How to grow watermelon in open ground

This is done so that the berries have time to ripen. And if we are talking about growing a fruit at home, then this stage can be safely skipped.

Basic steps to grow the most delicious watermelon on the planet

You should start by purchasing a large enough container, because watermelon has an extensive root system. A box measuring 50x50x30 cm is perfect for this. You can make it yourself, for example, from wooden planks. If this is not possible, then you can always take a basin or bucket. If the selected container is transparent, then it makes sense to wrap it in a dark-colored cloth. This measure is necessary to ensure that the roots do not dry out and turn green. The container must be filled with fertile soil with microelements.

You can purchase it at any garden or hardware store. Fortunately, nowadays even in some supermarkets you can find similar products, if, of course, they have a garden department. Thirty days before you plan to plant a watermelon, you will need to lime the soil. This is necessary so that the acidity is about 6 pH.

Before planting the seeds, they must first be soaked for about ten minutes in water at a temperature of more than 100C. You need to keep it until the seeds begin to hatch, after which they can be planted. Please note that under no circumstances should you separate the seeds.

How many seeds should I plant?

You don’t need much, because they can all rise. But three seeds will be the most the best option. It should be planted to a depth of about three centimeters. After the sprouts appear, you need to choose the strongest one and leave it.

Plant placement

The best place is by the window

No better place than the window sill. You can, of course, just place it near a window, but the plant must receive enough light. However, do not forget that the frame cannot be left open, otherwise there is a risk of freezing the heat-loving plant. Most best temperature For ripening the temperature is between +25 and +30 degrees. Until the fruit is formed, the plant will be considered a seedling. At night, the optimal temperature will be about +18 degrees. When you notice that the fruits begin to set, you should not sharply lower the room temperature. Leave it also at least +25 degrees. In addition, it should be remembered that humidity is destructive for watermelons. You need to remember that watering should be moderate; you should not overwater.

After three months you can harvest

Typically, if watermelons are grown in a greenhouse, it takes about three months. If we are talking about growing watermelon at home, then most likely it will take a little longer. If we are talking about growing at a time of year when there is less than twelve hours of daylight, then fluorescent lamps should be used. This is necessary to highlight the watermelon. Try to ensure that your lighting is clearly directed. Let it illuminate the plant as much as possible. In addition, you should use special reflective surfaces. Moreover, you should place them around the watermelon.

Vitamins and minerals for the plant

Like any other living creature, watermelon needs feeding. Try to do this according to a certain pattern. The most common method is primary fertilizing with phosphorus and nitrogen. Moreover, this is done in equal quantities. After you see fruit set, you should think about using a fertilizer that contains a large amount of potassium. And at this moment it is necessary to ensure that the fertilizing does not contain as much nitrogen as at the initial stage.

It makes sense to install a support in the container with which you can secure the shoots of your watermelon. The main stem, as a rule, is attached at a height of about one hundred centimeters. The side shoots are attached somewhat differently: they are pinched so that several leaves remain above the flower with the ovary.

Once you notice that the fruits have formed, there is no need to leave everything. Two are enough, all the rest need to be pinched off, because there will be no point in them. They will only take away all the juices and nutrients. If you leave more than two fruits, they will all remain small. When you see that the fruit has reached a size of about ten centimeters in diameter, it must be placed in gauze or mesh, after which it should be tied to a support. This is done to make it more durable.

By the way, when you grow watermelon at home, you should remember that it will not reach such a huge size as when planted in a greenhouse. However, the big advantage would be thinner skin. Typically, when growing a watermelon at home, you can get a fruit weighing about a kilogram.

If you don’t know which variety you should give preference to, then stop at seeds of varieties such as “Kakho”, “Ogonyok” or “Sibiryak”. These varieties are the most unpretentious for growing at home.

If the first time you fail to grow the kind of watermelon you wanted or if you don’t succeed at all, then don’t be too upset. Try again, just the next time you land you will need to take into account the mistakes you made and not repeat them again. Juicy and sweet watermelons to you!

Very often, watermelons in stores and markets have questionable taste, causing customers a lot of disappointment due to the dissonance of expectations and reality. And melons do not always meet environmental safety requirements, especially if they were purchased at dumps along highways, from cars in yards or in other unauthorized places of sale. Your favorite berry may turn out to be either simply tasteless - watery and insipid, or with a rotten center or stuffed with nitrates with a characteristic “chemical” tint in the taste and a suspiciously smooth cut. Therefore, many summer residents and gardeners are making attempts to grow this crop on their site.

In modern melon growing, the most different methods watermelon breeding. They are cultivated in greenhouses, deep greenhouses using bioheating, film tunnels and open methods without the use of protective structures. But it is the berries that grow “in the wild,” and not in shelters, and are properly saturated with the energy of the sun, that turn out to be the most delicious, have a sweet, aromatic pulp that melts in your mouth. Let's find out what you need to know about growing watermelon in open ground in order to avoid mistakes and wasted work, and which varieties are guaranteed to delight you with a stable harvest of delicious berries.

Features of the process in different regions

For a long time, the cultivation of watermelons remained the privilege of the southern regions with a hot climate, but thanks to the efforts of breeders, the situation has changed. Scientists have improved many valuable forms of table watermelon, developed early-ripening and hybrid varieties adapted to different climatic conditions, among which there are hybrids that can be grown in any area.

Therefore, the Russian south has ceased to be the only place where it is possible to cultivate watermelons. The geography of growing the largest berry has expanded to the Urals, northwestern regions– Siberia and Altai, Moscow region and regions of the Central Federal District, Central Chernozem and Volga-Vyatka regions.

If you are going to start growing melons in conditions of a short and sometimes changeable summer with a predominance of cloudy days, as in the north of Russia, you should not count on a harvest of large watermelons weighing 10-20 kg. The fruits simply do not have enough time to fully ripen during the short summer season.

Having managed to form thick, strong vines with flowering shoots, melons will stop growing and developing during the autumn decline temperature indicators. After the average daily temperature passes through 13-15°C and daylight hours are reduced to 12-14 hours, they die.

The success of growing watermelons in conditions very different from those at home, in which heat-loving plants feel comfortable depends on several factors.

• Knowledge and compliance with the nuances of agricultural technology. Watermelon, like melon, loves warmth. But for the seeds to sprout, a temperature of 14-16°C is enough, while this is not enough for the roots. To activate the growth of the root system, a temperature of at least 23°C is required. And during the phase of bud formation and flowering, the thermometer should remain at 18-20°C even at night.

• The right choice planting method. Open cultivation of melons in areas with unstable weather and short summers involves preparing warm, high beds. Under the protection of greenhouses and tunnels, plants also have time to fully ripen without experiencing stress from exposure to negative temperatures. When using mid-season varieties, it is advisable to resort to the seedling method of growing melons.
• Competent selection of watermelon varieties taking into account the climatic characteristics of a particular area and the experience of the farmer.

Choice of variety and location

Today's varietal diversity of popular melons includes over 200 items. When choosing a variety, they are guided by several criteria.

Origin

To make it easier to navigate such a variety of forms, they were systematized into 10 groups in accordance with geographical characteristics, highlighting:

• Russian;
• Western European;
• Little, Central and East Asian;
• Transcaucasian;
• Far Eastern;
• American;
• Indian;
• Afghan group.

In our latitudes, amateur plant growers are usually engaged in cultivating varieties united in the Russian, sometimes in the Central Asian or Transcaucasian group. The advantage of these forms of watermelon is their high environmental sustainability, characterized by the ability to withstand the influence of environmental stress factors while maintaining productivity.

Many experienced melon growers prefer to deal with imported hybrids, which is understandable. After all, many foreign breeders prioritize improvement of external characteristics and taste qualities fruits The main advantages of foreign hybrid varieties are high marketability and resistance to infections. Their disadvantage is the increased requirements for diet, so they have to be looked after much more carefully than domestic ones.

Therefore, for those who have just begun to master the wisdom of melon growing, it is better to abandon such options in favor of our F1 varieties.

Growing season

In areas of the non-chernozem zone with a cool temperate climate, the best productivity is shown by growing early and ultra-ripening varieties with an early ripening period (up to 80 days).

It is important to remember that there is no point in purchasing large-fruited varieties no, because in such conditions they do not have time to ripen.

In regions where summer enjoys a large number of warm sunny days, you can safely deal with mid- or late-ripening varieties or hybrids with a ripening period of 80-95 days.

Cold and drought resistance

For cultivation in Siberia or the middle zone, it is required that the variety be resistant to negative temperatures and withstand return frosts. Accordingly, when watermelons are cultivated in the Central Black Earth region, especially in its southeastern part, where the climate is drier than in the west, the ability of the variety to tolerate drought becomes of fundamental importance.

Sugar content

Representatives of early ripening varieties have higher sugar content compared to varieties of medium and late date growing season.

Popular varieties

The following selection presents the most popular varieties of table watermelon for growing in open ground.

Among them there are both classic varieties that have repeatedly proven their worth in practice, as well as several new ones that have already earned the trust of melon growers.

• "Siberian". The interest of summer residents in this ultra-early variety is due to its resistance to weather disasters, unpretentiousness, excellent immunity and very high taste. The fruits with intense red tender pulp under a thin skin have an unusually sweet taste and can compete with Astrakhan watermelons.

• "Gourmet F1" One of the new high-yielding hybrids of a wide-elliptical shape with medium greenish, dissected leaf blades, thin skin and rich scarlet flesh with a medium-dense consistency. Pumpkins with narrow stripes, colored much darker than the light green background. The fruits weigh on average 3.5-4 kg. Productivity – up to 5 kg/m2. With poor transportability, the variety has high drought resistance.

• "Sugar Lightning F1". An ultra-early cold-resistant form, recommended for cultivation in the middle zone. The taste is beyond praise and fully corresponds to the name of the variety. Fruits with aromatic scarlet pulp will delight you with a sugary-sweet honey taste. The color is uniform, thick green without a characteristic striped pattern. The leaf blades are miniature, strongly dissected. The ripening period is 65 days from germination to the first harvest of fruits.

• "Charleston Gray" One of the original varieties with oblong, elongated cylindrical fruits of light green uniform color without a striped pattern. Ukrainian breeders were involved in its breeding. The berries are famous for their wonderful taste, sugary red or pink pulp, very delicate in consistency. Due to the light color of the smooth crust, they do not heat up in the heat, so they not only relieve thirst, but also have an excellent tonic effect. The presence of a hard crust allows the fruits to easily endure long-distance transportation. Watermelons of this variety can increase their weight in the range of 13-18 kg. Technical ripeness occurs 70-95 days after emergence.

• "Delight". The growing season is 85-95 days. Plants of this variety are characterized by the formation of long vines with heavily dissected leaves and large spherical fruits. Commercial pumpkins weigh on average 7-9 kg. They are painted thick green and are covered with a pattern of spiky stripes of an even darker shade than the background. The red, fine-grained, juicy pulp contains a large amount of dry matter (11-13%) and natural sugar (9-10.5%). “Vostorg” attracts customers with its high taste qualities, beautiful shade crust and versatility of use. The fruits are consumed fresh, salted, canned, juice is squeezed out of them and a delicious nardek is prepared. The variety is distinguished by high transportability and complex disease resistance.

• "Striped torpedo F1". In demand hybrid variety with a “talking” name. The duration of the growing season is 84-92 days. When grown in open ground, fruits gain an average weight of 6 kg, a record figure of 11 kg. Plants form many branched shoots with a long main stem. The berries have a high sugar content - about 7-9%. The variety is characterized by long-term yield, bush resistance to Fusarium wilt and anthracnose. The root system of the hybrid can withstand high temperatures and low humidity. On rainfed soil, the yield is 17-22 kg/10 m2.

• "Melania F1". Dutch hybrid variety with high commercial qualities, excellent taste, resistant to heat and cold. Suitable for growing in areas with any climatic conditions. Fruits are elliptical in shape, with smooth surface and a pattern of dark green blurry wide stripes. The rind is of medium thickness, the flesh is of medium-dense consistency and is colored a rich red color. Technical ripeness occurs in 80-105 days. The berries tolerate transportation well over long distances and have good shelf life.

• "Bykovsky 22". The variety is distinguished by good transportability, drought resistance, high marketability of fruits with excellent taste. Watermelons are intended for fresh consumption. The spherical fruits with a smooth surface have a whitish or greenish color and a pattern of green narrow spiky stripes. Pulp pink color, with a grainy consistency and juicy taste. Ripening time is 91-104 days. The average weight of commercial fruits is 4.5 kg.

• "Bush 334". A distinctive feature of representatives of the widespread large-fruited variety is the limited growth of vines. Compared to watermelons, which produce long shoots, bush plants tend to form 4-5 vines, reaching a length of only 70-80 cm. Such compactness of melon plantings allows you to save space in the beds, which is especially appreciated by owners of modest plots. Each vine produces only one berry with a strong crust and pink granular pulp of dense consistency. Marketable fruits weigh 6-8 kg, tolerate long-term transportation well, have high shelf life (up to 3 months) and resistance to most diseases.

How to choose a place for melon planting?

The cultivated watermelon inherited from its small wild relatives and the common ancestor of the African melon a love for bright sun during the daytime and warmth at night. Therefore, it is necessary that the place where you plan to lay out the beds should be well lit by the sun and protected from strong winds.

It is optimal when the planting area is oriented to the south or southeast.

Leaning shrubs or trees with a lush crown should not grow nearby, limiting the access of the sun to the plantings. In cloudy weather and lack of sun, the rate of photosynthesis slows down, and the fruits accumulate less natural sugar and dry matter.

This melon culture tends to form a powerful root system, consisting of a main root and lateral roots, which, in turn, form numerous roots of higher orders. Ideally location groundwater in the planting area it should be as far as possible from the surface of the soil, which avoids waterlogging of the beds and rotting of the roots.

It is equally important to follow the rules of crop rotation when cultivating watermelon. The best predecessors for it include representatives of the legume, umbelliferous and cabbage (cruciferous) families. The worst former “owner” of the beds is the pumpkin’s closest relative, which shares common pests with the watermelon.

It is advisable to allocate a large planting area for melons so as not to limit the freedom of growth of thin creeping vines.

Preparation

Although watermelon is a crop that is insensitive to the level of soil acidity, its best productivity is shown when grown in fertile soils with a high content of easily digestible nutrients. The pH value should vary between 6.5-7 units. It grows well in light, loose sandy soil with high breathability and rapid warming up, or sandy loam soil containing up to 90% sand.

How to prepare the soil?

The earth needs to be enriched with organic matter. For this purpose, it will be necessary to carry out autumn tillage of the soil by digging and then leveling the ground with a rake, after first removing the remnants of the green mass of the predecessor plant. With the arrival of spring, the beds are laid out and half-rotted manure or compost is added as organic fertilizer.

Mineral fertilizers are used based on:

• ammonium sulfate 20-30 g/m2;
• superphosphate – 34-40 g/m2;
• potassium salt – 10-20 g/m2.

When growing under a film covering, the prepared beds are covered with polyethylene or non-woven material.

Seed material

Compared to other melon crops, watermelon seeds are the most difficult to germinate. Pre-sowing preparation increases the chances of obtaining friendly and strong shoots.

It is carried out through several techniques.

• Mechanical calibration of seed based on size. Separating large seeds from smaller ones and sowing them in separate containers according to their caliber ensures the production of friendly seedlings with equally developed seedlings.

• Sorting seeds according to density. Immersion of seed material in an aqueous saline solution helps to identify light specimens unsuitable for sowing. The floating seeds are disposed of, and seedlings are grown from heavier, sunken seeds.
• Disinfection. To disinfect, the seeds are kept in a weak 0.5% solution of potassium permanganate for 15-20 minutes and then dried naturally. For the same purpose, the seed is heated in the sun for a week or using thermostats or dryers for 3-4 hours, at temperatures up to 60°C.
• Soaking and germination. The presence of a thick leathery protective shell on the seeds significantly slows down the emergence of sprouts. Therefore, they are wrapped in a piece of thick cloth and soaked in a container with water at 22-25°C for 24 hours. After this, the seeds are laid out on a damp cloth, leaving to swell until roots appear.

• Heat treatment. The seed is heated in a vessel with water at 45-50°C for half an hour. Exposure to elevated temperatures accelerates all biochemical processes in seeds, as a result of which they will germinate much more actively.
• Scarification. It is advisable to carry out this procedure when growing melons in the middle zone. Its essence comes down to damage to the protective shells of the seeds with sandpaper for accelerated germination.

How to prepare seedlings?

In open ground, watermelons are cultivated through seedlings or without seedlings. At dachas in the Central Chernozem region, Krasnodar region, and the lower reaches of the Volga, seeds can be sown directly into the soil. Suitable only for non-chernozem regions seedling method growing melons.

• Favorable time for sowing seeds is April-May. It is advisable to prepare potted seedlings 3-4 weeks before planting.
• To prepare a nutritious soil mixture, take turf soil, peat and humus in a ratio of 1: 1: 1. Sandy soil is mixed with 10% mullein.
• The optimal size of seedling pots is 10-12 cm in diameter, which allows roots to develop freely. Damage to the root system is contraindicated for watermelon. The containers are filled with soil mixture and the seeds are buried 3-4 cm.
• Until the sprouts appear, it is important to maintain a temperature of 22-25°C in the place where the seedlings stand during the daytime, and to ensure that the thermometer does not drop below 17°C at night. Otherwise, the seed's subcotyledon may become elongated.

• As soon as the sprouts appear, the temperature should be reduced by 4-6°C and the seedlings should be left to get used to such conditions for a couple of days. After a week and a half, they need to be fed with a solution of mullein or chicken manure in a ratio of 1:10, mixed with superphosphate diluted in water at the rate of 2-3 g of fat per liter.
• When watering seedlings, you should avoid getting water on the leaves. There is no need to pinch the seedlings. Watering is carried out as needed, avoiding excessive waterlogging of the soil.
• Before planting in the soil, seedlings are accustomed to being outdoors. To harden off young plants, seedling containers are placed in a sufficiently illuminated, heated and reliably protected from the wind place on the site.

The readiness of the sprouts for planting in open ground is indicated by the formation of at least three true leaves.

How to plant?

The seedlings are transplanted into open ground, starting from the last days of May until the end of the first ten days of June. It is permissible to plant either one or a pair of seedlings in the holes. When planting in pairs, the shoots are turned in different directions to prevent chaotic interweaving of side shoots in the future. This culture is characterized by continuous growth of lashes that can stretch 5-7 meters.

Procedure for transfer work

• Dig two rows of holes, following a checkerboard pattern. The minimum distance between rows is 50 cm, between seats – 1-1.4 m.
• Pour 1.5-2 kg of compost into the holes and spill with water. The consumption rate is 2 liters per seat.
• The sprouts are removed from the seedling container, preserving the earthen clod, and placed in holes, deepening them down to the cotyledons.
• All that remains is to sprinkle the ground around the plants with a thin layer of sand in order to prevent the development of blackleg - a dangerous fungal disease that causes rotting of plantings.

In the non-seedling method of growing melons, the seeds are sown in soil heated to 13-14°C. The seed of large-fruited varieties is buried at 7-9 cm, and for small-fruited varieties - at 5-6 cm.

There are several sowing methods - in rows, squares, rectangular and square nests, strip, which explains the variety of planting patterns. Most often, melons and melons in the garden are sown in rows. In this case, the width between the rows can vary between 1.5-2.7 m, and the distance between the holes in the rows can be from 50 cm to 2 meters, depending on the size of the fruit of a particular variety.

Work order

• Dig the required number of holes and moisten with water.
• The holes are filled with a soil mixture: ash + humus + soil in equal parts + nitroammophoska 5 g. The consumption rate of the soil mixture is 15 g for each planting site. Level it with a trowel and water it.
• The seeds are planted, deepening them to 5-8 cm. At least five seeds are placed in one hole, and after a while, when they sprout, one of the largest seedlings is left.
• The crops are sprinkled with a thin layer of humus to avoid the formation of a crust that can damage the tender sprouts emerging from the ground.
• Lightly compact the soil to protect the seeds from being carried by wind and birds.

How to properly care?

In order to grow strong and healthy watermelons in open ground, you need to provide them with appropriate care at all stages of development from germination to fruit formation.

Unforeseen spring frosts- a fairly common phenomenon in areas with temperate climate, causing a lot of problems for summer residents. Therefore, it is better not to take risks and for the first time build a shelter made of arcs and polyethylene or nonwoven fabric. When the first flower stalks appear, the protection is removed to avoid damage to the plants during the active formation of lashes.

Another option for effective double protection of crops in open ground during frosts in cold climate zones is the use of multilayer plastic caps. To do this, the bottom part of liter PET bottles is cut off, and then each sprout is covered with them. After which the caps are closed with PET canisters with a volume of 5-6 liters, having previously cut off their bottom. Under the protection of plastic “matryoshka” dolls, the delicate stems are not afraid of cold, wind and aggressive sun, while inside it is light, warm and air circulates freely.

Watermelons are capricious regarding soil moisture. They, like other melon crops, require watering throughout the entire period of growth and development. The lower threshold of soil moisture for them is 75-80%. To obtain fruits with high taste at the ripening stage, the frequency of irrigation is reduced to reduce soil moisture by 5-10%.

In areas with sandy or sandy loam soils that have poor water-holding capacity, the frequency of irrigation should be higher with lower water rates. In dachas and gardens with clay or loamy soils, plantings need to be watered, on the contrary, less frequently, but abundantly.

The transplanted sprouts will need to be shaded and warm water t 21-25°C used for watering them for several days. If the weather is dry and hot, then watering the seedlings should be rare and plentiful. The daily water consumption rate for young seedlings is 0.2 liters.

The optimal watering regime for adult plants is one or two approaches every week, depending on weather conditions. Until flowering begins, watering should be moderate, whereas at the fruiting stage, irrigation is carried out at increased rates. To increase the sugar content of fruits, plantings stop watering at the end of the growing season.

The water temperature should not be lower than 19-20°C. Usage cold water unacceptable, as this inhibits the development of plants and makes them vulnerable to blackleg. It is advisable to do irrigation in the morning. This gives the soil time to warm up before nightfall. In hot weather, plantings are watered in the evening.

For the first time, the beds are loosened after transplanting the plants into open ground. In this case, the depth of loosening should not exceed 4-6 cm. Then the soil is loosened after rains and each irrigation until the plants begin to close together. As necessary, loosening is combined with weeding of the beds. Weeds are immediately disposed of, since they are one of the main sources of the spread of infections.

During the season, watermelons will need to be fed three times. A week after planting the seedlings, a nutrient solution is used to fertilize the plants.

To prepare it, dilute the following in 20 liters of water:

• ammonium sulfate 64-70 g;
• double superphosphate 80-100 g;
• potassium salt 30-36 g.

When lashes begin to actively form on the melon patch, a second feeding is carried out. During this period, it is good to fertilize plants with organic matter in combination with mineral fats. For this purpose, an infusion of cow manure is used, for which rotted mullein is diluted with water in proportions of 1: 10. Superphosphate and potassium salt are added to it at the rate of 2 g and 1 g of fertilizer per liter of infusion. Plants are watered between rows.

The appearance of the first ovaries is a signal for the third feeding.

This time, the dosage of fertilizers per 20 liters of water should be as follows:

• ammonium sulfate 48 g;
• superphosphate 20 g;
• potassium salt 70 g.

The application rate is 2 liters per bush. Instead of watering the holes, you can pour the solution into the furrows, which are drawn in advance, 20-25 cm away from the bushes.

Growing side shoots need to be periodically distributed throughout the garden bed. To avoid damage to too long branched lashes by the wind, they are tied to supports or sprinkled with damp soil.

When three or four apricot-sized pumpkins have formed on the central vines, get rid of all other ovaries by cutting them out sharp knife. To treat sections, use powder from charcoal. After this, the tops of the lashes are pinched, followed by the removal of the female flowers.

The last method is the most popular, as it guarantees almost 100% survival rate, so it is ideally suited for beginning melon growers.

To do this, select a rootstock and scion that have two or three true leaves each. On the axial part of the shoots of pumpkin and watermelon, oblique cuts are made with a depth of ¾ of the thickness of the stems and a length of 0.5-0.6 cm. The stems are cut so that the watermelon axial part enters the axial part of the pumpkin from above. To increase the contact area, the stems are cut at an angle of 30°.

Carefully connect the plants with cuts like a “lock”. To fix the grafting site, use a grafting clip or food foil. Seedlings connected to each other are planted in one large container of 0.5-0.7 liters and placed in a well-lit place.

After 4-5 days, the watermelon stem is pinched below the place where the grafting was made so that the watermelon begins to receive nutrients from the lagenaria roots. After another 4-5 days, the watermelon stem and the top of the pumpkin are removed.

You can transplant seedlings into open ground after a week, provided the weather is good. When there is no film cover on the beds, replanting is done in May.

When do they ripen?

If you grow watermelons in open ground using the seedless method, the seeds germinate after sowing in 8-10 days. And if you germinate the seeds and grow potted seedlings from them, you can expect sprouts to appear a couple of days earlier. Rapid germination is facilitated by maintaining the temperature, light and humidity conditions in the room where the seedlings are located.

How long it takes a melon crop to grow in open ground from the formation of flowers and ovaries to the onset of technical ripeness directly depends on what type of seed was used. In early forms, the duration of the growing season can vary between 65-70 days, in later forms it takes at least three months to fully mature.

August is the time to harvest early ripening varieties. But watermelons are not harvested en masse during this period. The exception is cases of forced harvesting of melons due to early frosts.

During the warm season, only the ripest pumpkins are harvested, identifying them by the following characteristics:

• shiny (not matte) surface of the bark, dense to the touch;
• a dull sound when you tap on the bark and a characteristic crackling sound when the fruit is squeezed with your hands;
• the presence of a dry stalk of a brownish color;
• a clearly visible pattern of clear stripes and the presence of a yellow spot in the place where the fruit came into contact with the ground.

Since each of these signs is quite conditional, you need to be guided by their totality. Otherwise, there is a high probability of cutting off unripe berries.

Diseases and their treatment

When growing watermelons, you most often have to deal with several diseases.

Anthracnose

The first sign of the disease is the formation of brown or yellow spots on the leaves. If you don’t start fighting anthracnose at this stage, “ulcers” will appear on the lashes. dark color, after which the plants will begin to die en masse. The bushes are treated with cuprozan or the plantings are promptly treated with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture as an effective cellular poison that destroys harmful fungi. The soil must be weeded. For preventive spraying of bushes, 80% wettable powder contact fungicide “Zineb” is used.

Powdery mildew

Infection is indicated by the appearance of whitish spots on the bushes. If measures are not taken in time, the green parts of plants will begin to gradually wither and die. Treatment involves the destruction of affected vines with fruits and treatment of the soil with a systemic contact fungicide “Dinocap” (“Karatan LC”). For preventive purposes, bushes are sprayed with a solution of colloidal sulfur. The frequency of treatments is once a week.

White rot

Predisposing factors for its occurrence are high humidity combined with sudden changes in temperature. Infection of the green parts of plants by the fungus leads to stoppages in development and a significant deterioration in the taste of the fruit. The onset of the disease can be diagnosed by the presence white plaque on vines and leaf blades. After destroying the rotten parts of the planting, they are treated with copper sulfate. A therapeutic and prophylactic solution for spraying bushes is prepared at the rate of 100-200 g of copper-containing microfertilizer per 20 liters of water.

The formation of watermelons in open ground is shown in the following video.