Step-by-step instructions for making rabbit cages with your own hands. Optimal cage sizes for rabbits: drawings Iron cages for rabbits
How to build a rabbit cage yourself? This question usually arises among beginners who decide to start rabbit farming. Experienced farmers usually develop designs that are convenient for themselves, making it easier to care for animals.
Cells can have different structures and be made from a variety of materials. They are made completely simple or additionally equipped with “conveniences”, such as running water or heating. In the construction of the cage, much will depend on the planned number of rabbits, their breed and size, on the availability of retreat materials and on the place where it will be installed, on the desire and ability to equip it with various devices, as well as on the ability to work with carpentry and plumbing tools.
Cell placement
Rabbit cages can be located in utility rooms, such as, for example, or directly on the street. Therefore, they can be divided into three types according to their location and the method of breeding rabbits:
- Year-round outdoor placement of cages, when animals are constantly outdoors.
- Keeping pets indoors all year round.
- Combined breeding option, that is, in winter period rabbits are kept indoors, and with the onset of warm weather they are transferred outside.
Experienced rabbit breeders believe that the most optimal way to breed these animals is to keep them outdoors all year round, as this promotes the development of immunity to various diseases and the formation of healthy, high-quality hair. In addition, when raising rabbits outside, the females' productivity significantly improves, which increases the number of rabbits in the litter and their endurance.
Street cages
Rabbit cages are most often installed outdoors if you plan to breed a large number of animals - a hundred or more animals.
Convenience of arranging rabbit hutches in street conditions is to have more space and ease of care for your “menagerie”, since each of the cells needs periodic cleaning.
Rabbit cage
For construction street cells sufficiently durable materials are used, since the design must be reliable and stable - these qualities will help protect rabbits from adverse natural factors, as well as from penetration into the cells of predatory animals - dogs, foxes, cats or rats.
It is advisable that the building be located under a large front canopy so that any precipitation, as well as direct sun rays They didn’t bother the pets much.
If the rabbits will be outside all year round, then it is necessary to take care of insulating one of the parts of the cage. These animals tolerate low winter temperatures well, but it would still be a good idea to create comfortable conditions for them and a special place where they can bask on particularly cold days and nights.
Cages placed indoors
Cages placed in non-ventilated areas can be made entirely of metal mesh attached to a wooden frame and have a wooden lattice floor. If breeding pets is carried out indoors, it is important to think carefully about the convenient disposal of their waste.
Combined rabbit breeding option
In another case, if funds and space allow, cages are built in two places - both on the street and in a barn. This method of farming is unlikely to be suitable for those farmers who raise a large number of pets, since installing winter and summer cages will require a fairly large area.
Cell design and size
Rabbit cages can be single-tiered or multi-tiered. In addition, their design may vary depending on the main purpose - for breeding, for raising young animals or for keeping adult pets.
Single-tier and multi-tier structures
Cells can be single-tiered or multi-tiered, but they are arranged in no more than three tiers.
- Single-tier cells
Single-tier buildings are raised above the ground by 700÷800 mm and covered with a roof made of or metal sheets. If this type of building will be located on the street, then it is better to choose a slate roof, since the metal heats up quickly, and rabbits do not tolerate extreme heat very well.
To collect and dispose of animal waste, a metal tray made in the form of a drain is often installed in a single-tier cage for the convenience of its regular cleaning.
- Multi-tiered cells
More often, multi-tiered cages are practiced, which can have two or three tiers, and on each of which a different number of sections are placed. Such structures are most often made of bars, boards and galvanized mesh, and are used for breeding rabbits, both outdoors and indoors.
Similar designs cages are called sheds - in them tiers with sections are located one above the other, which helps to significantly save space.
A two-tier design is considered the best option, as it will allow comfortable care and monitoring pets.
It is recommended to raise the shad above the ground by 500÷600 mm when installed indoors, and by 700÷750 mm when installed outdoors. This cage is considered the best for keeping rabbits, so it is used most often.
When building multi-tiered cages, there must be a space of at least 150 mm high between each of the tiers. A sloping metal roof is installed over the cages. In the space between the tiers and under the lower tier, inclined tides are fixed. They are necessary so that rabbit waste does not fall into the lower cages and does not linger on the lower roof, but flows to the ground or into a common or separate drain for each tier located at the back of the structure. At each of these ebbs, sides are bent on the sides to prevent waste from falling beyond this plane.
Some owners prefer to use removable plastic trays, which are mounted on skids under the slatted floor and can be removed for cleaning and rinsing.
Another option is for the trays to be installed directly in the cages. In addition, sometimes cages are made with a solid floor. Both of the latter options are probably still not very convenient, since the bedding in the cages will have to be changed quite often - once every two to three days.
Cages for breeding
In cages intended for breeding, special chambers are installed on the sides, or space is provided for installing a mobile queen cell. In a design with a stationary compartment, the walls, removable floor and ceiling are made solid, since it must be well insulated and not blown through by drafts, otherwise the rabbits will die.
The floor in the rest of the cage, where the food section is located, is made of wooden blocks or metal mesh.
The mobile queen cell is completely closed box with a round hole for entry. The box should also have an additional side door to allow it to be cleaned and dried.
breeding cages
The mobile queen cell is convenient in that it can be rearranged, if necessary, to different cells, and it is also easier to clean and change bedding.
This chamber is insulated with dry, mold-free hay or shavings. It is not recommended to use small sawdust, as they can get into the respiratory tract of the rabbits, and they will die.
If breeding is carried out in winter, then a few days before it, it is recommended to place an electric heating pad in the queen cell to create comfortable conditions for the female rabbit.
During the cold season, it is often impossible to do without heating the uterine tract, so instead of a heating pad, you can also use a regular light bulb, which is kept constantly on during this period. It is placed in a compartment located behind the wall of the uterine chamber. Having chosen this heating option, you need to take care of against fire safety, therefore, the chamber where the lamp will be located must be sheathed with a thin metal sheet.
Another way to heat this part of the cage is, which is fixed to the bottom of the queen cell, and a removable floor panel is placed on top of it. When using this option, it is imperative to ensure that the cable located in the cage is solid, without splicing. This system, installed according to all the rules, allows you to regulate the temperature in the uterine compartment depending on the outside temperature - it can be connected to a thermostatic regulator.
For cages located indoors in barns, it is best to make queen cells mobile so that they can be taken outside for thorough cleaning, ventilation and drying in the sun. If a built-in uterine chamber is planned, then the floor must be removable.
Each cell section similar type usually has a length of 1000÷1200 mm, a depth of 550÷650 mm, a height on the front side of 550÷600 mm and 400÷450 mm on the rear wall. The built-in uterine chamber is made 350÷400 mm wide.
Cages for young animals
Cages for young animals should be designed to house 8÷20 rabbits at a time between the ages of three and five months. A group cage is made with an area of approximately 0.25 - 0.3 m² per pet, with a wall height of at least 350 mm.
If the cages are made multi-tiered and installed on the street, then they must be raised above the ground by at least 700÷750 mm.
In cages for young animals, the warm nesting compartment should also be well insulated for the winter period, in approximately the same way as for newborn rabbits. For insulation, hay or straw is used, laid 15÷20 mm thick. You should not choose for insulation artificial materials, as they have a bad effect on the development and growth of babies of all breeds of rabbits.
Cage for adult rabbits
For adult rabbits of medium-sized breeds, cages are made with sections 600÷700 mm deep, a façade height of 600 mm and a length of 1000 mm - this minimum dimensions for the comfortable development of an adult animal. The same block design is used for these cells; each block contains two cells separated by a wall.
It is also necessary to provide for the union of these cells into one, for example, for the mating period - for this, the partition between them is made removable. It is recommended to make the floor in cages for adults from galvanized mesh.
It is very important to take into account that pets must move freely inside the cages, since their growth and development will depend on this.
Cage with aviary for walking
This cage design is well suited for keeping young animals or for rabbits of reproductive age. The cage consists of two compartments - an area completely enclosed by walls and a roof and a mesh enclosure. The two compartments are connected by a round or rectangular entrance cut into the rear wall of the cage with solid surfaces. Rabbits in such cages have the opportunity to move freely and safely, which is beneficial for their development and growth.
The dimensions of such structures may vary, but usually the depth of a closed cage is 600÷650 mm, and the depth of the enclosure is 800÷1000 mm. Most often, a regular single-tier block is built, consisting of two separate cages, and then, if there is space behind it, a mesh enclosure is attached to it.
Cages for giant rabbits
Large rabbits of the “giant” meat-skin breed require a special approach, since not standard cages are built for them, but those with more significant parameters. Individuals of this breed grow to sizes from 550 to 650 mm in length, and their weight ranges from 5.5 to 7.5 kg. These numbers must be used as a starting point when drawing up a construction design drawing.
For one adult “giant” rabbit, you will need a cage measuring at least 960 mm in length, 700 mm in depth and 600÷700 mm in height.
For young animals of this breed, in one litter of which there are on average eight rabbits, you will need a cage of 1.2 m², at least 400 mm high.
Since “giant” rabbits have quite a lot of weight, the floor of the cage should be reinforced - it is also covered with galvanized mesh, but made of thicker wire, for example, 2÷2.2 mm. In addition, to prevent the mesh from bending under the weight of the animal, when making the floor, you must first secure bars measuring 30×30 mm, laid at a distance of 35÷40 mm from each other, and then lay and secure a metal mesh on top of them.
Some farmers lay a solid floor in their cages, but in this case, the most the best option will install plastic or rubber trays in them. If you choose this option for arranging the cage, then you will have to clean it of waste daily or once every two days.
metal aviary
California rabbit cage
This breed of rabbits (a hybrid of the New Zealand breed, the Soviet chinchilla and the Russian ermine) is quite popular due to its ease of care and resistance to negative winter temperatures. In size, adult individuals of the Californian breed are smaller than “giants” and their length is 450÷500 mm, but their weight sometimes reaches up to 4.5÷5 kg. The cage for these rabbits should be approximately 0.4÷0.5 m² in size. The paws of pets of this breed are covered with coarse hair, so they will be quite comfortable in cages with mesh or slatted floors.
When California rabbits are raised exclusively for meat, they are often kept in a pit measuring 2000x2000 and 1000 mm deep. The walls of the pit are reinforced with slate, a plank or mesh floor is laid on the floors, a low fence is installed around the pit and a roof is built.
An earthen niche is made in one of the walls of the pit, which is not reinforced in any way. It is necessary to create conditions close to the natural habitat of these animals. Rabbits will happily dig holes in the ground, and with proper care they will reproduce well and raise young on their own.
Feeders and drinkers for rabbit cages
To make caring for your pets easier, it is worth considering a convenient supply of food and water for them. There are many different designs, both feeders and drinkers. They can be purchased at finished form or even do it yourself.
Drinking bowls
Rabbits need a lot of clean water and if you pour it into a bowl that is not fixed at a certain height, then it will get into it various garbage or, even worse, the rabbit, stepping on it with its paw, will simply knock it over and spill water.
It is very important to decide on the choice of material from which the drinkers will be made. For example, if you install products made of thin plastic, they will not last for a long time, as rabbits will chew them. In metal cans, water will quickly become dirty and cloudy. Therefore, experienced rabbit breeders have developed several simple designs that allow them to constantly provide the animals with the necessary amount of water.
Automatic drinkers
This type of drinker is often used both in large farms, and in small households. The design of this drinking bowl consists of a bowl connected to a container filled with water. Moreover, the bowl is in the cage, and the container is located outside, so it is easy to replenish it with new supplies of fresh water.
The principle of operation of such devices is quite simple - as the water decreases from the bowl, a new portion of liquid will flow into it from the container. In this case, the float system is triggered - there is little water left in the bowl, so the valve installed in the container opens and the drinking bowl is replenished with water. It is quite difficult to make such a drinking bowl yourself, but it can be purchased ready-made.
Nipple drinkers
The nipple type of drinker is convenient and practical, since in this case the animals cannot spill the water - it remains in the tube until the rabbit begins to drink, performing sucking movements.
The disadvantage of this water delivery system is that at low temperatures the water in the container and in the tubes quickly freezes, so this drinker can only be used in warm time year.
Vacuum drinker
There are several ways to make a drinking bowl from a regular plastic bottle, and they should be considered, so the manufacturing process can be carried out independently.
The operating principle of this design is based on the laws of physics, and to make it, you need to proceed as follows:
- A bowl with a flat bottom, sides approximately 50 mm high and an elongated shape is fixed to the cage at a height of 100 mm from the floor, so that half of it is inside the cage and the other remains outside.
- To normal plastic bottle Two or one and a half liters of water is collected. The bottle is then closed with a cap or even a piece of paper, which is pressed firmly to the neck. Next, the container is quickly turned upside down and placed in a bowl. The neck should not reach the bottom 2÷3 mm. The bottle is then secured to the cage using wire or clamps.
- The lid is carefully unscrewed (if paper was used, it is simply pulled out), and the bowl is filled with water by about ⅔. As your pets drink water, water will flow from the bottle into the bowl, filling it to its previous level.
Throttle drinker
This drinker works on the principle of a conventional hand washbasin, that is, when you press the throttle installed together with the valve in the bottle cap, water begins to flow down the throttle through the resulting hole.
The hole in the cover should not be large, but the throttle should move up and down easily in it. A rubber gasket can be used as a valve, which holds the throttle well and covers the hole in the bottle cap in a calm state.
The bottle with this device is fixed vertically on the cage, at a height of 250÷300 mm from the floor.
Hanging drinker
This is a very simple version of a drinking bowl, made from a plastic bottle; it is suspended on wire holders at a height of 250÷300 mm from the floor. To make such a drinking bowl, a cutout is made in the side of the bottle, 100÷120 mm wide and almost the entire length of the bottle, 50÷60 mm away from the lid and bottom.
The drinking bowl is secured with outside cells so that the hole cut in the bottle is turned inward. In the cage at this level, part of the mesh wall is also cut out so that the rabbits can easily reach the water. Such a drinking bowl will have to be replenished with water quite often, but it is extremely simple to manufacture.
Feeders
It is advisable to plan the feeders at the stage of drawing up the drawing of the entire structure. Feed supply devices can be of three types:
- Senniki are most often located between two adjacent cells and have a V-shape. They are made together with the design of the cell itself - they are, in fact, its integral part. Fresh grass or dry hay is placed in these feeders, and the rabbits pull it out through the lattice walls.
- Feeder for filling feed. This product is necessary for rabbits to enrich their body with minerals and vitamins, which contributes to the rapid growth of animals. This food is especially important in winter, when there is no grass, fresh vegetables and fruits.
Feeders for feed can be made of metal sheet used for laying sewers or other materials. An important condition What must be done for this device to work effectively is the correct and reliable fastening of the container to the cell wall. The principle of operation of such a device is that food independently enters a bowl located in the cage from a container fixed outside it, as it decreases.
- A device for vegetables, fruits, tops and other fresh shredded products can be made of any material. It is made spacious and easy to clean. The feeder must be kept clean, otherwise there may be infestations in and around it. harmful insects, which can cause various diseases in animals.
Making your own multi-tiered cage
Before purchasing materials, it is recommended to draw up an accurate drawing of a cage or multi-tiered complex. It is necessary to foresee the location of feeders and drinkers on the plan, especially in cases where they will be built into the overall structure.
In this case it is presented step by step description manufacturing a three-tier cage 1400 mm wide, 1900 mm high and 600 mm deep.
For work you will need the following materials:
| Name of materials or components | Size, mm | Quantity |
|---|---|---|
| Board | 100×30 | 10 m |
| timber | 50×30 | 27 m |
| Plywood 15 mm | Standard | 1÷2 sheets |
| Metal mesh | Wire 0.7 mm, mesh 25×25 mm | 8 m² |
| Metal galvanized sheet | Thickness 0.6÷0.9 mm | 3 m² |
| Self-tapping screws | 50 | 300÷500 pcs. |
| Nails | 60÷70 | 100 pcs. |
| Latch locks for queen cells | Standard | 6 pcs. |
| Hinges for securing the hinged doors of the queen cell. | 12 pcs. |
The table below describes the cage installation process step by step:
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | From the purchased boards it is necessary to make parts for mounting the frame: - 100×30×2250 mm – 4 pcs.; - 50×30×1340 mm – 12 pcs.; - 50×30×540 mm – 12 pcs.; - 25×30×540 mm – 72 pcs. |
 | Six identical frame frames measuring 1340x600 mm are assembled from prepared lumber. |
 | Making frames is easy. First, one is assembled with precise dimensions and squareness, and then it is used as a template for making the rest. To assemble each frame, you will need two beams measuring 50x30x540 mm and two beams measuring 50x30x1340 mm. Smaller bars are secured between two long ones using two screws at each connection |
 | The result of installation should be six neat, even frames of the same size. |
 | The next step is to position the frames and fasten them onto boards measuring 100x30x2250 mm, laid at a distance the width of the frame. The distance between the frames forming the frame and the floor of the cage of each tier should be 400 mm. The space left between tiers is 180 mm. The first tier should be raised 400 mm above the ground. The frames are secured with two self-tapping screws, screwed in along the diagonal intersection line at the joints of the frame frame and side boards. |
 | The next step is to fasten the frames along the top edge with two boards laid parallel to the bottom ones. It is important here to ensure that the frames are perfectly vertical. To check their verticality, a building level is used. |
 | Next, the blocks for installation of the grated floor are prepared. Their size should be 25x30x540 mm. |
 | The distance between the sheathing bars should be 15÷20 mm (lightwise). They are installed inside the frame frame, and through it, on the side, secured with self-tapping screws on both sides. |
 | The floor of the cells on all three tiers is lined in exactly the same way. If it is planned to make a queen cell on one of the tiers, where breeding occurs, and where the rabbits will be kept until a certain age, then in this place the floor of the cage should be solid and removable. The arrangement of the queen cell was described above. |
 | Will each of the tiers be divided into two separate cells? between which a hay box is mounted in the shape of the Latin letter V. Hay or grass for rabbits will be placed here. The sennik is formed from four bars, which are installed on both sides of the frame. The size of the hay is 150÷200 mm in the upper part, and 6÷8 mm in the lower part. Naturally, it is necessary to achieve a clear correspondence in the location of the inclined crossbars on both sides of the frame. |
 | To ensure that the doors have the correct rectangular shape, a hay barn can be made from boards by cutting one of their sides at a certain angle and connecting them at the bottom from the inside of the cage. Thus, the outer edge of the hay barn will be smooth and will act as a wall to which the door will adjoin. In addition, the front parts of the hay barn can be cut from plywood 15 mm thick. |
 | The frame of the hay barn is sheathed inside along installed bars (or cutouts made at an angle in boards or plywood) with a mesh of 0.7 mm wire having cells of 25 × 25 mm. |
 | If you plan to make a queen cell in the cage, then it is separated from the cage by a plywood or plank wall with a small entrance. To make it easier to attach this wall, additional bars are mounted into the structure, to which the plywood jumper will be attached. |
 | The entrance to the wall can be round or semicircular, but it must be located at a height of 100-120 mm from the floor of the cage - this distance must be maintained so that the rabbits cannot get into the large cage until they can overcome this height on their own. The width of the entrance to the queen cell should be approximately 150 mm. After the hole is cut, it must be cleaned with sandpaper, since its edges must be absolutely smooth. |
 | The width of the queen cell is usually 300÷350 mm. The jumper wall is fixed to the bars, then the same wall is mounted on the outside of the cage, and then the roof panel is fixed. If in the main space of the cage the roof can be covered with a metal mesh, then in the queen cell it should be continuous. Lastly, a bottom made of plywood is placed in the queen cell compartment. However, it should not be secured to the lower bars with self-tapping screws, since after the rabbits grow up and are moved to other, more spacious cages, the bottom part is removed from the uterine chamber, washed, dried and put in place for the next birth. |
 | The final stage in the installation of the queen cell is the installation of a hinged external door on it across the entire width of the chamber. At the bottom, the door is secured to the beam with two metal hinges. |
 | A latch lock or latch is installed in the middle of the upper part of the door panel. |
 | Next, the cage door frame is made from 30x30 mm bars. It is made according to the size of the opening formed in the cell wall. The door frame bars are fastened together at the corners with two self-tapping screws. |
 | The illustration shows finished frame the door in front of it is covered with a metal mesh. |
 | The mesh is fixed to the frame using staples and a stapler - such fixation will be quite sufficient. |
 | A door with a mesh installed on the inside looks like this. |
 | Hinges on mesh doors can be mounted at the bottom (in which case the door will be hinged), or on one side of the opening (in which case it will be hinged). It all depends on ease of use in specific conditions. |
 | If the cages will be installed under a roof, for example, in a barn or other indoor utility room, then the walls and roof of the cages can also be lined with mesh. When installing the structure outdoors, the side and rear walls and roof must be covered with plywood or boards |
 | It is very important to make the correct tides under each tier of cages so that animal waste from the upper cages does not fall into the lower ones. Used to make castings metal sheet, on which the edges are folded on the sides - these sides should have a height of 80÷100 mm. The ebbs are attached to the front lower part of the frame under the cage, and its other edge is laid on the rear wall of the lower cage and extends beyond it by 300÷350 mm. Thus, the ebb tides are inclined and protrude back beyond the structure so that they do not interfere with the approach to the rabbitry from the front side. |
 | The result should be something like this cell. In terms of complexity, this design option can be called the simplest and most accessible even for beginners. |
If you understand the principles of constructing cages for rabbits, then when drawing up a drawing, if desired, you can make your own adjustments. But it is still necessary to always keep in mind that any adult rabbit requires at least 0.5 m² of living space. It’s even better to adhere to the recommended section sizes, about 1000 mm in length, 600÷ 700 in depth, and from 400 to 600 mm in height.
And at the end of the article, there is a video in which the rabbit breeder shares the secrets of the design of improved cages:
Video: an interesting version of cages for rabbits
Almost every owner country house there is a small farm. Some people prefer to raise cattle, others poultry, and others like to raise fluffy and adorable rabbits. But for any household it is worth considering comfortable living conditions. If you have chosen rabbits and decided to make cages for them with your own hands, you should decide in advance on the location of the cages, their size and internal contents.
On your own plot of land, cages with livestock can be placed:
- outdoors;
- indoors, such as a barn.
All cages for rabbits, depending on their location and breeding method, are divided into three types:
- year-round outdoor seating;
- year-round indoor maintenance;
- combined maintenance (outdoors in summer, in a barn in winter).
Many rabbit breeders believe that the best option for placing cages is to arrange them outdoors. This content has a beneficial effect on animals, promotes the development of immunity to diseases, and the presence of beautiful and high-quality hair. Breeding outdoors increases the productivity of females, increases the number of rabbits in one litter and promotes their endurance.
When choosing a place to install the cage, you should consider:
- air humidity. It should vary between 60-75%. That is, the place should be chosen on a hill and away from bodies of water;
- exposure to direct sunlight, which has a negative effect on animals. It is better to place the cages under trees or behind an artificial fence;
- the presence of drafts, which are a common cause of diseases in rabbits. Air movement should not exceed 30 m/s. Don't forget about high-quality ventilation in cells. Otherwise, the fumes will undermine the health of your pets.
Street cages
All rabbit cages may differ in:
- sizes;
- structures;
- manufacturing materials.
They are simple, two-tiered with additional amenities, for example, heated. What kind of cage you need to build for your farm largely depends on the breed of rabbits, their size, the availability of building materials and personal preferences.
The advantages of setting up rabbit hutches outdoors include:
- availability of large space;
- ease of caring for animals;
- the ability to build convenient and affordable structures.
To build outdoor cages, you will need to prepare reliable materials. They must be resistant to moisture, frost and sudden temperature changes.
Important: the cage for rabbits must protect the animals from penetration by predators such as dogs, cats, foxes, and rats.
To prevent your pets from being bothered by direct sunlight and precipitation, make a canopy with a large canopy over the building. If you breed animals all year round, you need to take care of insulating one of the parts of the cage. Despite the fact that these animals tolerate low temperature air, it is necessary to create a cozy and warm place for them where they can bask.
Important: special attention is paid to the insulation of queen cells and the compartment with small rabbits.
Cages placed indoors
Structures placed in sheds can be made of a single metal mesh attached to a wooden frame. The floor must be made of wood.
If you raise rabbits indoors, it should be:
- well plastered;
- ventilated;
- illuminated in winter - at least 10 hours.
It would be nice if there was a window on the entire wall on the south side of the barn.
Combined rabbit breeding option
For the combined option of breeding animals, mobile cages are most suitable. In the warm season, it will be convenient to take them outside, and in the cold season, install them indoors.
If funds allow, you can make two versions of cages: one for the street, the other for the barn. But this one is unlikely option will do for those who breed a large number of animals.
Cell design and size
Rabbit cages can be single or multi-tiered. Depending on who they are intended for (fawns, young animals, adults), their design depends.
Single-tier and multi-tier structures
Single-tier cages are placed above the ground at a distance of 80 cm. The roof of the structures is covered with slate or metal sheet.
Important: if the cages are located outside, it is better to cover them with slate, since the metal gets very hot, and these animals do not tolerate heat well.
For easy care of animals, it is better to make the tray with a gutter for easy cleaning. In single-tier structures, metal pallets are installed for storing pet waste.
Multi-tiered cells can consist of two or more tiers. On each tier there is required quantity sections. They can be made from bars, galvanized mesh and boards. These materials are suitable for the construction of rabbit hutches both outdoors and indoors.
Multi-tiered products are often called sheds. In them, the tiers are placed one above the other. This helps save space. The ideal option is two-tier structures. They provide convenient care and monitoring of pets.
When building multi-tiered cages, there must be a space of at least 15 cm between each tier. Above each cage it is necessary to install metal roof, and in the space between each tier there are inclined ebb tides. This is necessary to ensure that animal waste does not fall on lower tiers, did not linger on the roof, but flowed into specially constructed drains behind the cages.
Some people prefer to use removable plastic trays in their cages. They are convenient and easy to use. Such pallets can be installed directly in the cages themselves, or on runners under the grated floor.
Cages for breeding
In breeding cages, it is necessary to install special chambers on the sides or provide space for a mobile queen cell. If you choose an inpatient department, then the removable floor, walls and ceiling are made solid. They must be well insulated so that the young offspring do not die from cold and draft. In the rest of the cage, the floor can be made of metal mesh or wooden blocks.
The mobile queen cell is a completely closed box with an opening for entry. This box should have an additional side door so that the queen cell can be conveniently cleaned and dried. This design is convenient in that it can be rearranged into different cells as needed. They are also much more convenient for changing bedding and cleaning. The building for feeding is insulated with shavings or hay.
If you are expecting offspring in the cold winter, the mobile queen cell should be placed in an electric heating pad to create comfortable conditions for the female rabbit a few days before the birth.
In winter, it is practically impossible to do without heating the uterine tract. If you do not have an electric heating pad, you can use a regular light bulb, which should be kept constantly on during this period. The light bulb must be placed in a compartment located behind the wall of the uterine chamber.
Attention: when choosing to heat the queen cell with an electric light bulb, take care of fire safety. The chamber in which the lamp will be located should first be sheathed with thin metal.
There is another method of heating this part of the cell using heating cable for heated floors. It is fixed to the bottom of the queen cell, and a removable floor panel is placed on top of it.
Important: if you prefer this type of heating, make sure that the cable is intact and without defects. Such a heating system can be connected to a thermostatic regulator. This will allow you to regulate the temperature in the uterine compartment, depending on weather conditions.
If the cells are in a barn, it is better to use a mobile queen cell. Then it will be easier to ventilate and clean them outside. If you decide to make a built-in uterine chamber, the floor in it should be removable.
In two-section single-tier cages, the length of each section should be at least 100-120 cm, and the depth - 55-65 cm. The width of the built-in uterine chamber should be 35-40 cm.
Cages for young animals
Rabbits aged from three to five months are called young animals. They are kept in groups of 8-20 pieces. The height of the walls of the cages must be at least 35 cm. The total area is calculated based on the fact that there should be 0.25 square meters per animal.
Multi-tiered cages for young animals are installed outdoors and rise 75 cm from the ground. If the floor is made of wooden blocks, it is recommended to install a metal mesh on top. This way, you will protect the rabbits, who will gnaw the tree and scratch it with their paws. For older rabbits, you can make a mesh floor.
In winter, cages with young animals must be well insulated. For this, hay or straw is used, laid 2 cm thick.
Cage for adult rabbits
Cages for medium-sized adult rabbits should have a depth of 60-70 cm and a length of 100 cm. These are the minimum sizes for comfortable breeding of animals. They can be made using the same block structures. That is, in each block there are two cells separated by a wall.
To mate animals, it is worth considering combining two cages into one using a removable partition. For adult rabbits, it is recommended to make the floor from galvanized mesh.
Attention: adults must move freely around the cage. Their growth and development will depend on this.
Cage with aviary for walking
Cages with an enclosure for walking are suitable for both young animals and rabbits of reproductive age. This design should consist of two separate compartments with a partition, a roof and a mesh enclosure. The two compartments are connected by a round or square entrance cut into the rear wall of the structure. Thanks to convenient design, the animals move easily inside, which contributes to their proper development and growth.
The cage with a walk can be any size. It is good if its depth varies between 60-65 cm, and the depth of the enclosure - 80-100 cm. Such structures consist of single-tier blocks consisting of two separate cells. A mesh enclosure is attached to the back of the cages if there is space.
Cages for giant rabbits
Since the giant breed is a large rabbit, the cages for them must have appropriate sizes. Giants grow to considerable sizes. Their length is 55-65 cm, and their weight varies from 5.5 to 7.5 kg. When building housing for large breeds, it is worth starting from the weight and height of the animals.
For one adult, a cage is required with dimensions of 96 cm in length, 70 in depth, and 60-70 cm in height.
For young animals of the giant breed, housing may be a little simpler. For eight animals you need a cage with an area of 1, 2 square meters. m. Its height must be at least 40 cm.
Important: giant rabbits have an impressive weight. Therefore, the bottom of the cells should be pre-strengthened. When making a mesh floor, preference is given to thick wire, 2 mm thick. To prevent the mesh from bending under the weight of the animals, it is necessary to secure bars underneath it. If you plan to install plastic or rubber trays in cages, it is better to make a solid field under them
California rabbit cage
Californian rabbits are quite popular among breeders. They are absolutely unpretentious in care and resistant to severe frosts. Adults reach a length of up to 50 cm, and their weight ranges from 4.5 to 5 kg. The cage for this breed should be 0.5 sq.m. Since this breed's paws are covered with coarse hair, the floor can be made of lattice or mesh.
If you breed rabbits only for meat, they can be kept in a hole measuring 200 by 200 cm and about a meter deep. The walls of the pit should first be reinforced with slate, and boards or mesh should be laid on the floor. For safety, a small fence and roof are built around the pit. This method of breeding animals is as close to natural as possible and gives good results. Rabbits love to dig holes in the ground. At proper care, they will delight their owners with numerous offspring.
Making your own cells
Having decided to build cozy houses for rabbits, it is necessary to decide in advance on the type of structure, its dimensions and materials of manufacture. You will need to prepare:
- hacksaw;
- hammer;
- corner;
- plane;
- screwdriver
Any type of cage will consist of: a frame, walls, floor, ceiling and doors. As a rule, when building houses for these animals, metal mesh or natural wood is used.
As for materials for construction, you should prepare:
- large sheets of plywood;
- slate;
- nails and screws;
- bars;
- slats;
- galvanized mesh.
To make doors, you will need to additionally prepare curtains and latches.
Having chosen wood as the main building material, it should be sanded and sanded in advance. All sharp edges are processed so that the animal does not get hurt. Since rabbits wear down their teeth on wood, there should always be branches in the cages. Otherwise, they will simply chew on their housing.
Feeders and drinkers for rabbit cages
In addition to the construction of cells, it is necessary to carefully consider them interior design. Food and water should be provided to the animals in a comfortable way. Feeders can be purchased ready-made in a store or made on your own.
Rabbits need plenty of clean water every day. If you just pour it into a plate, dirt and debris will get into it, or animals will constantly spill water. When choosing a drinking bowl, you should decide on its:
- manufacturing materials;
- location;
- volume;
- type of construction.
Attention: if the drinking bowl is made of thin plastic, animals will quickly gnaw through it. And in metal cans the water will become cloudy and dirty.
Automatic drinkers
Automatic shelves are most often used on farms where there are a lot of livestock. This design is quite simple and consists of: a bowl connected to a container. The bowl of water is always inside the cage, and the container is outside. It is easy to use and durable.
The principle of operation of this drinking bowl is quite simple: as the water from the bowl decreases, a new portion from the container enters it.
Attention: making such a drinking bowl with your own hands is quite difficult. It is easier to purchase it ready-made in the store.
Nipple drinkers
Nipple designs are practical and convenient. The liquid does not spill into them and remains in the tube until the animal begins to drink. The only drawback of such a product is that in the cold season the liquid can simply freeze in the tube.
Vacuum drinker
You can easily build a vacuum drinker with your own hands from a simple plastic bottle. You can make such a drinker as follows:
- A bowl with a flat bottom should be fixed at a height of 10cm from the floor on the cage so that one half of it is inside the structure and the other is outside.
- We take a simple plastic bottle of one or two liters and fill it with water. We close the bottle with a lid, turn it upside down and place it on a bowl. We secure the bottle to the cage with clamps or wire.
- Carefully unscrew the lid and the bowl will automatically fill with water. As the animals drink water from the drinking bowl, it will be replenished with new liquid to a certain level.
Throttle drinker
The throttle drinker works on the principle of a conventional washbasin. You can also make it yourself. To do this, you will need to take a plastic bottle, make a small hole in the cap and attach the choke. A rubber gasket can be used as a valve. It will hold the throttle well and close the hole in the lid.
The drinking bowl is attached in a vertical position to the cage at a height of 30 cm from the floor.
Hanging drinker
A hanging drinker is also made from a bottle. It is suspended horizontally on a wire, at a height of 30 cm from the floor. To make this design, you need to make a cutout in the bottle, 10 cm wide along the entire length, retreating only 5 cm from the bottom and lid of the product.
The hanging drinking bowl is attached to the outside of the cage - with a cut hole facing inward.
Feeders
It is worth considering the design of feeders at the design stage of cage construction. You can feed your rabbits using:
At the right approach When breeding rabbits, you can achieve good results. If the cages are built in accordance with all standards and requirements, and feeders, drinkers and queen cells are correctly located in them, your pets will feel as comfortable as possible, will quickly develop and gain weight.
For successful keeping and breeding of rabbits, it is very important to choose the right cage for them, because the well-being of the animals and their ability to reproduce directly depend on its structure and type of material. Good, warm and comfortable housing is the key to a pet’s good health and good weight gain. There are two options - buy a ready-made cage in a specialized store or make it yourself. It would seem that the first option is easier and simpler, but it is preferable to do it yourself, taking into account all the necessary dimensions, depending on the expected number of individuals and the breed of pets. Having decided to breed rabbits, it is important to decide on the place where their cage will be located.
First of all, you need to take care of protecting your pets from cold wind and sunlight in the summer. Ideally, it is better to make the roof removable, this will facilitate the process of disinfecting the cage. So, how to make cages for rabbits with your own hands: all sizes and drawings are presented below.
Types of cages for keeping rabbits
The main types of cages, mainly used by rabbit breeders in practice, are presented in the list below:
- a cage with an enclosure for walking a rabbit;
- standard cells with and without queen cell;
- a cell built according to the method of I. N. Mikhailov;
- cell according to the method of N.I. Zolotukhin.
Each cell has a standard base - walls, floor, ceiling and frame, door. Let's take a closer look at cell types.
An example of a drawing of a two-section cage for rabbits can be seen in the photo below.
Regular cell (with or without queen cell)
A standard cage, usually on high legs, with a mesh floor and tray, with two compartments separated by a partition with the ability to move from compartment to compartment. They provide a nest for the female rabbit and a place for feeding. The entrance to the cage is closed with doors. The high legs of the structure allow maximum protection of animals from moisture and drafts; they are usually made about half a meter. The mesh floor will allow the waste products of the rabbits not to linger in the cage; with the help of a tray, everything can be easily removed and the animals will be clean. Such cells can be found very often; they require minimum costs and a small amount of materials. Often designs with a mesh floor are used when breeding, since the paws of this breed of animal are resistant to damage.
Cage with aviary for walking rabbits
It is a regular cell (discussed above) made of wooden frame, often on legs, an enclosure for walking is attached to such a cage.
Considering the mobility of pets and their love for an active lifestyle, having a place to walk has an extremely positive effect on the health of rabbits and improves their reproductive qualities. During the summer months, it allows the animals to enjoy fresh grass and soak up the morning sun. It is necessary to take into account all the details so that pets cannot escape from the enclosure and cats or mice do not get into them.
DIY rabbit cages: drawings according to Zolotukhin
The main difference between such a cage and other designs is the following: it does not contain a queen cell for the rabbit. It is assumed that the best option would be if she chooses a suitable place for herself. The feeder and sippy cup are located above front door. These cages do not have a tray or a mesh floor; instead, only the back side of the structure is covered with mesh.
A small metal mesh is used. Analyzing the behavior of rabbits, you can see that they relieve themselves at the back of their homes. These cages are built using slate or planks. To make the frame and partitions, boards up to two centimeters thick are used. The floor and roof are made of slate; if this is not available, it is made of the same boards as the cage frame. Wooden surfaces upholstered with thin sheet metal.
Let's look at the construction of such a cell step by step:
The first floor of the structure should be located at a distance of fifty centimeters from the ground to protect rabbits from moisture and cold. The cage frame itself is made using four two-meter beams; the finished width of the frame should be two meters, and the depth should be eighty centimeters. Thus, three floors are built.
- The floor of each floor must be inclined at a slope of five centimeters towards the back of the cage to allow animal feces to drain off. Each floor is divided into two halves by wooden slats, the distance between them should be about thirty centimeters; in the future there will be a hay barn. The walls of the structure are made of wooden planks. Each floor is half covered with boards or slate, the resulting gap is closed with a fine mesh.
- The back wall must be made of moisture-resistant material; polycarbonate is a good choice; it can withstand fairly high humidity without deteriorating or rotting. The grid of the upper floor ends and a polycarbonate sheet is attached to it at an angle.
- It is convenient to make caged doors that are common to all floors; metal hooks are attached to the doors.
- Additionally, each floor can be equipped with side doors for fattening; bolts must be attached to each door.
Considering that rabbits love to chew everything and are good at it, each inner corner is lined with metal for protection.
The roof of the cage is made in such a way that it protrudes forward from the common part of the frame by at least five centimeters on all sides, in order to prevent rainwater from entering the room with the pets.
Cages for rabbits using the Mikhailov method
Rabbit cages using the Mikhailov method are the most complex and expensive, but at the same time the most convenient to use. They provide for a unified system of rabbit waste, heating of the queen cell with baby rabbits and a female rabbit, separate shelves for animals and a ventilation system. Their main feature is their sectionality - they include from two to four separate sections with a single compartment for collecting rabbit waste.
The first cages of this type were designed for two adult animals, improved designs are designed for several teenage rabbits or two rabbits expecting offspring. There are two-tier and single-tier cages. The construction of a cage of this type is tied to the cardinal directions; for protection from cold winds, the back wall is made blank and placed to the north. Apart from the back, the other three are made of mesh material. The mechanism for heating the queen cell must be turned on, and ventilation of the premises is provided.
The floors of the cage using the Mikhailov method are made of slats laid diagonally. To simplify the design, such cells are conventionally divided into three parts:
- the upper one, consisting of one or two tiers;
- the lower part is a sealed part for collecting manure;
- stand-up
Thanks to the stand, the entire structure is fixed to the ground; without it, the cage can turn over. Overall height legs - 140 cm, additional beams are installed at a distance of 40 cm from the ground for maximum strong fixation. Feeders and drinking bowls for rabbits are located inside the building, queen cells are in the center. To make such a design with your own hands, you must have the correct drawing with exact dimensions. The dimensions of the cage made using this method are relatively small; for two adult individuals, the total area of the structure will be 1.4 square meters. The height of the building is 210 cm, the width of the sections is 80 cm, the height is 70 cm. The angle of inclination of the lower section is 45 degrees. The sippy cup in the cage can be installed in any size, depending on the size of the section in which the pet lives. Let's consider the principle of constructing such a cage for four adult rabbits. The animal feeder is 15 cm long, 12 cm wide, and 30 cm high.
So, in order to make this design with your own hands at home, you must have:
- bars;
- slats;
- boards;
- metal mesh;
- automatic drinking bowls for pets;
- queen cell heater;
- box for animal feces;
- staples;
- self-tapping screws;
- stapler;
- screwdriver;
- drill;
- nails of different sizes and a hammer;
- sheet iron;
- material for protecting internal corners;
- slateruberoid.
Let's look at the construction of such a cage step by step. As an example for a detailed description of construction, let’s take a single-tier cage with three compartments. Having understood the principle of the method, it will not be difficult at all to complete and upper floors. We assemble the cage frame in accordance with the required dimensions and drawings.
- We start building the frame from the frame, then we build the cage itself and lay the floor in it diagonally with slats. Separately, we prepare the doors for the cage and install them, not forgetting the latches.
- We install automatic drinking bowls for animals inside the living quarters, and hang pre-prepared drinking bowls outside (also made in accordance with the dimensions of the drawings).
- The queen cell for the female rabbit and the little rabbits is separated by a partition in which there is supposed to be a door for exit. Do not forget that the queen cell should be as dark as possible for the comfort of newborn rabbits.
- We make a roof, strengthen the slate with self-tapping screws.
- We make a sloped surface for manure in the shape of a rectangular funnel. A container is installed under the funnel to collect waste and waste products of rabbits.
An important point in such cages is that little rabbits are not separated from their mother. They are constantly with her in a heated queen cell and have the opportunity to receive mother’s milk for as long as possible, which significantly increases the animals’ immunity.
Mikhailov's method is based, first of all, on the fact that rabbits do not have direct contact with humans; for them this is a very serious stress. The idea of such an automatic house, where pets have round-the-clock access to a feeder and water bowl, has achieved incredible results. Rabbits living in such cages practically do not get sick, reproduce well and gain weight very quickly. There are even four-month-old individuals weighing up to six kilograms.
Video. DIY rabbit cage
Those who decide to start breeding rabbits always have the question of making comfortable cage for rodents. Housing for long-eared animals can be designed in different ways, and can be made either in a factory or with your own hands. Let's focus on the last option.
What materials can it be made from?
Planning the construction rabbit cells, the first thing you should think about is the choice of suitable building materials. In principle, any available means are suitable for constructing a simple structure that can protect animals from unfavorable external factors.
In the construction of rabbit farms, wood and metal, galvanized profiles, plastic elements, bricks, clay and even industrial pallets are used. Despite the fact that almost any materials are suitable for use, their choice should be approached with full responsibility.
Wood
Even a novice rabbit breeder can handle making a wooden cage
Wood is used very widely in the construction of rabbit cages. Any structural elements can be made from it. It is from wooden beams that the frame of the future cage is usually made. Floors made of wooden planks are also popular among rabbit breeders.
The main advantages of the material are environmental friendliness and ease of processing.. Wooden elements can be easily given almost any shape. Don't lose sight of the beautiful thermal insulation properties wood: a wooden rabbitry will be warm in winter, and not too hot in summer.
Among the disadvantages, it is worth highlighting rapid destruction. Rabbits love to chew on everything around them, so wooden elements interior decoration the cells are quickly destroyed by rodents. In addition, due to its porous structure, wood absorbs all odors and liquids, so it is not recommended to install a solid wooden floor in a cage.
Important! Insects and humidity also contribute to the rapid destruction of wood, therefore all wooden structural elements must be treated protective compounds. When choosing such a composition, make sure it is safe for animals.
Metal
Metal is much stronger than wood, but working with it requires a different level of skill
Metal is a more durable material for construction compared to wood. Rabbits cannot chew through metal elements, they are easy to wash and are not afraid of insects. True, metal processing requires special skills from the master, as well as the ability to handle special tools.
The frame of the future cage is created from metal pipes. Metal is also used for the interior of wooden cages to prevent chewing natural material. But it is not recommended to make the roof and outer walls of the cage out of metal, since they can get very hot in the sun, and freeze in the cold, which can pose a threat to the health of long-eared residents.
Galvanized profile
Galvanized profiles are used in combination with other materials. Unlike all-metal elements, strengthening or finishing the cage with a profile does not make the structure heavier, which is especially important for portable mobile rabbit cages.
Plastic elements
Plastic is lightweight and durable, but can release toxic substances in the heat
Plastic pipes can become an alternative to wooden beams and metal pipes. Durable and lightweight material allows you to create universal cages for use in any conditions.
When working with plastic, it is important to keep animal safety in mind. Internal elements structures that can get in the teeth of rabbits should not be made of plastic. The animal can injure its mouth or esophagus from shrapnel, as well as be poisoned by synthetic substances included in the material.
Important! When exposed to extreme heat (for example, in the heat), some types of plastic release toxic substances.
Bricks and clay
Bricks and clay are used to build rabbit hutches mainly in hot regions. The bases for the houses are laid with bricks, and the seams are coated with clay. Such a cage protects animals well from overheating, since the brick has excellent thermal insulation properties.
Net
The walls of rabbit cages are made solid, in the form of a lattice of slats, or they are made of mesh. The most convenient option is considered to be one with a grid, which should have cells of medium or small size and be strong enough.
Slate
The most practical material for making a roof for a rabbit hutch is slate. It will perfectly perform its protective function, without overheating in the sun and without being afraid of moisture.
Available materials
Rabbits are not the easiest animals to care for. For temporary housing or in conditions of critical savings, houses made from scrap materials are suitable. Inventive rabbit breeders adapt old barrels and containers to contain rodents, or assemble multi-story structures from industrial pallets.
Each material has special properties that can be both an advantage and a disadvantage. You should be guided in your choice based on the advice of experienced rabbit breeders, individual conditions (climate, animal breed, etc.) and instructions for popular drawings if you plan to use them.
Do-it-yourself typical rabbit cage
When choosing a cage option for rabbits, you can opt for a Zolotukhin or Mikhailov cage
There are many options for cages for rabbits, which differ in the number of tiers and sections, sizes and the presence of “conveniences” in the form of feeders and drinkers. On the Internet it is easy to find original drawings like Zolotukhin’s or Mikhailov’s designs.
If we talk about a typical cage for adult rabbits, then the optimal parameters will be the following sizes:
- Length - 120–150 cm;
- Width - 60–80 cm;
- Height - 60 cm.
In order to rationally consume material and for ease of maintenance, it is recommended to build paired cages. In this case, the length will increase to 3 m.
There is no need to save space and make smaller cells. Animals must have enough free space, otherwise they become inactive, get sick and stop producing offspring.
In appearance, a typical cell resembles a block consisting of two sections, each of which can contain one adult individual. Most often in construction, wood and plywood are used for the frame and interior decoration, metal mesh with small cells for walls and partitions, and slate for roofing.
The floor of the cage is rarely made solid. Usually it is assembled from narrow slats or a mesh is used, as this simplifies the care of rodents. Rabbits produce a lot of waste, which ends up in a specially designed area through a mesh or slatted floor. installed pallet. If the floor covering is made continuous, then it will have to be cleaned too often.
To make a standard cell you will need the following materials:
- Wooden beams - 10 pieces, size 300x3x5 cm;
- Sheets of plywood - 2 pieces measuring 150x150x0.1 cm;
- Metal mesh - 3 m with a cell size no larger than 15 mm;
- Self-tapping screws - approximately 2 kg. You will need sizes 3 and 7 cm;
- Fittings - door hinges and latches;
- Perhaps wooden floor slats as an alternative to metal mesh.
Tools for work:
- Hand saw or grinder;
- Metal scissors or wire cutters;
- A screwdriver or hammer with nails (instead of screws);
- Tape measure, pencil, level.
Drawing
Drawing of a typical cage for rabbits
The drawing shows all the main structural elements and the dimensions in cm.
Manufacturing instructions
- Construction should begin with the manufacture of the frame. It is assembled from wooden beams, which are sawn according to size and fastened with screws or nails. If possible, it is recommended to deepen the legs of the frame into the ground for greater stability of the structure.
- The floor of the future cage is assembled from slats, between which gaps of 0.5–1 cm are left, or a metal mesh is placed. The closed nesting compartments on the sides of the cage can be made solid by laying down plywood.
- The back and side walls of the cage and the feeder are also made from plywood.
- Having made the doors using metal mesh and leftover wood, you should secure them with fittings.
- At the end of the work, the cage is covered with a roof. Depending on the external conditions, they put a double roof (plywood and slate on top) or simply cover it with slate.
Video: Do-it-yourself typical rabbit cage
In addition to the covered part, a cage for decorative rabbits must have an open part.
The more spacious the home for a decorative rabbit, the better. Animal comfort is also provided by the construction of two-story structures or enclosures for walking. Decorative rabbits, as a rule, are kept indoors, so the requirements for thermal insulation and protection from external factors for the design of the home are much lower.
The flooring in a cage for decorative breeds of rabbits should be solid and soft. The surface of the paws of decorative rodents is prone to inflammation and deformation, since it does not have soft pads. The ideal option is a wooden floor covered with soft absorbent material (sawdust, special wood filler, soft straw, absorbent diapers, etc.).
Required tools and materials
Making a cage for keeping decorative rabbits involves using the following materials:
- Sheets of plywood, chipboard or wooden panels: it is better to take extra, focusing on the dimensions of the cage (90x60x45 cm);
- Metal sheet (tin can be used): 90x60 cm;
- Wooden slats;
- Metal mesh: 60x45 cm minimum;
- Self-tapping screws or nails;
- Door fittings.
Tools for work:
- Saw, hacksaw or jigsaw;
- Screwdriver or hammer;
- Nippers or metal scissors;
Drawing
Drawing of a multi-tiered cage for decorative rabbits
The dimensions in the drawing are indicated in centimeters. The size and design of the cage are optimal for keeping one adult individual in a heated room.
Manufacturing instructions
- The construction of a cage for a decorative rabbit begins from the floor. From chipboard or wooden shield cut out a base measuring 90x60 cm.
- A metal shield of similar dimensions is placed on a wooden base.
- Then, boards for walls measuring 45x60 cm are prepared from wood or chipboard.
- The frame is assembled using nails or self-tapping screws.
- The door is made from wooden slats and metal mesh. The optimal size for the door is 30x30 cm.
- The second tier is made of the same material as the walls and is installed inside the cage.
- The staircase is made of slats, maintaining a width of at least 15 cm, and is installed close to the second tier, carefully securing it.
Making a cage for keeping decorative rabbits is quite simple. Even novice rabbit breeders who have no experience in construction and design can cope with the task. Paint cell surfaces paint and varnish materials It’s not worth it, as rodents can become poisoned by toxic substances by gnawing on structural elements.
Video: do-it-yourself two-story rabbit cage
Design Features
All rabbit cages are designed based on general principles, however, different types of shelters have their own characteristics. The nuances of the designs depend mainly on the breeds and individuals that the rabbit breeder plans to keep. Any productive farm simultaneously contains several groups of rabbits of different ages or even breeds.
Depending on whether the rabbit hutch will be located outdoors or indoors, you should select suitable materials for construction and plan the dimensions of the structure. Cages can have from 1 to 3 tiers and an unlimited number of sections in length.
Rabbits of different ages (newborns, young animals, adults) require special housing conditions, and accordingly, the cages for them will be different. For example, pregnant females with newborn rabbits are kept in special uterine cages with nests.
The size of the cages should be planned in such a way that the animals have enough space and space. Obviously, cages for giant rabbits and dwarf rabbits will be very different from each other.
Depending on the size of the rabbits
The size of the cage is directly related to the dimensions of future residents
Optimal dimensions for a spacious cage containing a pair of adult rabbits of standard dimensions:
- Length - 120–170 cm;
- Width - 60–80 cm;
- Height - 50–60 cm.
Dwarf and decorative (up to 4–5 kg) rabbits will need more modest conditions:
- Length - 70–90 cm;
- Width - 35–55 cm;
- Height - 30–50 cm.
Giant rabbits will need much more space:
- Length - 85–100 cm;
- Width - 70–80 cm;
- Height - 60–80 cm.
Multi-tiered cells
Productive rabbit breeding involves the simultaneous keeping of a large number of rodents of different sexes and ages. Multi-tiered structures for keeping animals come to the aid of rabbit breeders. The cages are installed in both two and three tiers. Cages with several levels for rabbits are capital structures, which, however, are quite easy to build yourself.
Multi-tier cages based on Zolotukhin’s drawings are popular among rabbit farm owners. They have a number of advantages:
- Capacity;
- The ability to keep all representatives of rabbit families (females, young animals and males) in one place;
- It is convenient to care for animals;
- Zolotukhin cells are quite mobile - they can be moved from place to place.
Depending on the purpose
If there is a female rabbit with her young rabbits living in a cage, then they definitely need to have a secluded place.
Depending on their purpose, rabbit cages are divided into several types, each of which has its own design features:
- Standard cage for permanent keeping. It’s easy to find a drawing of such a cage on the Internet and build a home for rodents yourself. You should pay attention to the size of the cage, which should not be too small, and the safety of the materials;
- The breeding cage should be much more spacious, since several individuals will be in it at the same time;
- A special type of house for a female rabbit with her young or a pregnant female is called a queen cell. A secluded place and warmth are the two main components of the comfort of a pregnant rabbit and her newborn rabbits. As a rule, the queen cell has solid walls, a kind of house that imitates a cramped hole and devices for feeding the mother;
- The cage for young animals meets standard requirements, but is often equipped with an additional enclosure for walking. The opportunity to stretch a little has a beneficial effect on the growth and development of fragile cubs. The walking area is made of metal mesh and often provides the animals with access to fresh grass.
Depending on the climate and time of year
The optimal ambient temperature for rabbits to feel normal is 14–16 degrees. Maintaining a normal climate in the houses and protecting animals from precipitation and wind are the main requirements for the design of rabbit cages.
In large rabbit farms, keeping rodents in winter and summer involves various types cells. Winter ones are insulated with OSB or other fiber; sometimes they are heated with water.
In regions with temperate climate without sudden temperature changes, you can keep rabbits all year round in the same portable structures, which upon the onset of the first cold weather are transferred indoors. In the summer, such cells are again moved to the open air.
Choosing a location for installation
Rabbit hutches can be placed both indoors and outdoors. Outdoor maintenance is recommended only for regions with warm climates or in the case of the construction of well-insulated heated structures.
Rabbits do not tolerate high humidity well, so in the open air a place should be chosen that is remote from bodies of water, preferably on a hill. Direct sunlight can also harm the health of rodents, so future rabbit breeders need to provide a special canopy or bush fence.
When placing cages with rabbits indoors, the open part of the structure should be turned towards the windows. This will increase daylight hours for the animals and give them more warmth. Daylight is generally very important for breeding, especially with regard to young individuals. Therefore in autumn-winter period It will be necessary to install additional lamps for additional lighting and heating of the cells.
Do not forget about general hygiene in premises where animals are kept. Rabbits produce a lot of waste that needs to be removed promptly. At least once a year it is recommended to thoroughly clean the entire structure and the room itself. This will prevent the proliferation of bacteria and viruses.
Arrangement
Feeder options for rabbit cages
In addition to walls, floors and ceilings, housing for permanent keeping of rabbits provides a supply of fresh water and food. Now you can purchase ready-made drinkers and feeders in stores or through specialized websites. However, you can make simple feeders and drinkers yourself.
Some rabbit hutch plans include built-in structures, while some require feeding facilities to be installed separately.
The flooring for decorative domestic rabbits must be soft to prevent the animal from developing pododermatitis. Best options are considered sawdust or absorbent textile diapers.
How to crate train a rabbit
If the cage is comfortable, the rabbit will get used to it quickly enough
In their natural environment, rabbits live in burrows. When keeping animals productively, providing them with adequate privacy is very difficult. If the rabbit hutch is not constructed correctly and has internal sharp corners, small space or is located in a noisy environment, animals will experience stress, which will adversely affect their health and reproductive function.
Accustoming a rabbit to a new home is quite simple: you just need to provide it with the most comfortable living conditions.
Rabbit breeding is a popular and profitable business in rural areas. Animals are kept in special cages that you can make yourself. Using the information and advice from this article, anyone, even the most inexperienced rabbit breeder, will be able to design the right cage that is ideal for his rabbits.
