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Do-it-yourself paving slabs: all the manufacturing secrets. We improve the area around the house, or how to properly lay paving slabs with your own hands Do-it-yourself paving slabs at home

In most cases, home owners often try to plan in advance the arrangement of paths on their summer cottage. Many people try to produce a large number of beautiful elements related to landscape design.

In all cases, the material that is used to construct the paths is important. In this case apply natural stones and wooden cuts and many other elements. But for such a purpose it is more practical paving slabs. She has a wonderful appearance. Tile materials have good strength and quality indicators.

Elements of paving slabs that are produced in-house actually become original additions to the design of garden plots. In this case, they also harmonize well with the house or it with its style.

The creation of building materials is considered a very labor-intensive and rather long process. But, if you look at all the work differently, then this process is more interesting. Today, paving slabs are considered an exclusive product, successfully combined with picturesque paths. It is worth noting that creating tiles on your own allows you to significantly save money, which is important today.

For comparison, we can say that purchasing ready-made tile elements will cost many times more than making the same material yourself. Products self-made may not be suitable for the design of areas that are designed to accommodate more massive equipment, but it will perfectly decorate paths and sidewalks.

Such material becomes very good decision for the design of any ideas. If the concreting mixture is done correctly, the material will be of better quality. In this case, higher quality tile products are obtained.

Regarding the process of preparing elements and designing garden paths, this can be a pretty good activity. It allows you to discover the creative potential of owners.

At the moment of styling, and even after it, you can receive a lot of good emotions.

How to make tiles when decorating areas in the garden: everything in order

Selection of tools and materials for preparation paving slabs- This is a difficult task that should be completed before all work begins. A kind of paving stones are created on the basis of dry mixtures, which contain: sand, water and cement.

An important factor is proportionality, which seriously depends on the purpose of the materials. It is worth noting that to prepare durable tiles, cement powder with grade M 500 is used. It is not recommended to save on cement.

If we talk about such important components as sand and water, which will be used to make mixtures, then they must be cleared of debris. If suddenly there is a small amount of solid particles in the sand, excluding wood, then the solution will not be affected by their presence.

Plastic blanks that are used to make tiles can be purchased at construction equipment sales outlets. The shape or size may vary in different directions.

It is worth knowing that pouring molds are often designed for 250-300 pours. To speed up this process, it is necessary to use not one form, but ten or more.

Sometimes they resort to using molds taken from food storage packages. They can also be quite good with enough flexibility and elasticity. Using similar tiles, you can quite easily make good products.

How to prepare concrete composition

If you already have everything mentioned above, then you can safely start making attractive tiles to decorate your garden plots. You can knead using a mixer or concrete mixer.

Please note: when the water volume is slightly higher than permissible value, then this can reduce the strength of concrete. To prevent this, moisture-repellent additives and reinforcing fiber are added to the solution.

Tile materials are painted in the most unusual colors using selected pigments. They are resistant to temperature fluctuations. As for the influence of an alkaline environment, these pigments can retain the desired qualities under any conditions.

In any case, when adding dyes to the composition, you need to achieve a more homogeneous solution. It is worth remembering the proportionality of the dye and the concrete mixture.

How to pour the solution into silicone molds

Before pouring the mixtures into molds, you will need to coat them using a special composition. This prevents the solution from sticking to the walls of the molds. Oil mixed with water works well as a lubricant.

In most cases, automotive lubricant and simple testing may work well for this. In this situation, the process of unpacking finished products is simplified.

In order to increase the strength of products, you can place a metal mesh in molds that are almost 50% filled. You can also place reinforcement or wire in them.

After reinforcement, it is recommended to add the remaining solution to the mold. To compact and remove a large number of bubbles that are in the mixture, it is used practical device, such as a vibrating table. If this device is not available, then shelves or racks are used as an alternative. The tiles are stacked on them and several blows are applied to the racks using a hammer.

How are products dried?

The composition in the molds should be covered with a film made from polyethylene. All this will need to be left for the right time.

You need to check the tiles for readiness when dew appears on inside films. It is worth noting that it is recommended to maintain an appropriate level of humidity by periodically wetting the tiles with water. This is done over several days.

It is advised to dry the tiles not under the influence of the sun, but simply in the shade. As for the drying period, it lasts about 15-20 days.

Video instructions for making paving slabs with your own hands

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Paths in a personal or garden plot, paved with paving slabs, are functional and aesthetic. Pavers are strong, durable, easy to maintain and attractive. But the cost of such coverage, if we are talking about purchasing several dozen square meters tiles are significant. Therefore, craftsmen, in order to save money, using technologies available for home conditions, have been successfully making paving slabs with their own hands for several years.

The quality of paving slabs depends on adherence to technology and the correct recipe

Technology selection

There are two ways to produce paving slabs:

• vibration pressing;
• vibration casting.

The first method for producing tiles at home is not suitable by definition - there is nothing with which to press. And making high-quality paving stones with your own hands using the vibration casting method is quite possible.

Manufacturers offer the following types of molds for the production of paving stones:

• polyurethane – allow you to make up to 100 molding revolutions;
• made of plastic – up to 250 rpm;
• made of plastic rubber - more than 500 cycles.

The price of products depends on the number of molding cycles, so the high cost of rubber and plastic molds suggests their use in the production of large volumes of tiles, and polyurethane products are quite affordable for the average buyer. By purchasing 5 molds, you can make 500 pieces of paving slabs with your own hands, and with careful handling you can make even more.

Molds for casting tiles

Molding templates for making paving stones

To cast paving slabs “on site”, template molds are used in the form of a frame of partitions, reminiscent of irregularly shaped honeycombs, which you can buy or make yourself. Having laid such a frame on a properly prepared base, the honeycombs are filled with concrete. After a few hours, the template is removed, and instead of honeycombs, ready-made flat concrete fragments remain on the base, between which only the seams need to be arranged.

In addition, if paving stones are planned to be laid, for example, on auxiliary paths garden plot, and the requirements for it are low, then the molds for casting such tiles can be made with your own hands.

To make paving stones, first of all you need to stock up on special molds for casting

Self-production of casting molds

Paving slabs with your own hands.
The universal format of paving slabs is a square with a side of 30 cm. This size provides the necessary strength when working in bending and is convenient for cutting the product in half or into 4 parts when you need to adjust the material. Therefore, from smoothly planed wooden blocks with a cross-section of 60 x 30 mm, you need to make a frame with your own hands with internal dimensions of 30 x 30 cm and a depth of 60 mm. It is better to assemble the frame using self-tapping screws, which later, when removing the frozen product, will be easy to unscrew and then return to its place.

To form a pattern on the front side of future paving slabs, select an elastic base with a corrugated surface, for example, a rubber mat with a large pattern, and place the mold frame on it.

Before forming the sides, the frames and the shaped base are coated with a thin layer of kitchen dishwashing gel using a brush.

To ensure that the process of making tiles with your own hands does not drag on for months or years, you need to make at least 10 molds.

Making paving slabs with your own hands is a rather labor-intensive process.

Disposable plastic packaging containers can be used as forms for small format paving slabs various products, filling them with solution to a fixed depth. The turnover of such “forms” is 5-10 cycles, but this is compensated by the insignificant cost of used boxes.

Technology for manufacturing paving slabs using vibration casting method

This method consists of pouring cement-based mortar into special forms with simultaneous or subsequent compaction of the contents by vibration.

Vibration casting can be produced using single-layer and two-layer technology.

Single layer method

Single-layer technology consists of filling the molds with a solution, compacting them on a vibrating table, followed by keeping the products in the molds for two days and removing the formwork. The strength and aesthetics of such tiles are lower than those of two-layer paving stones made by vibration casting, so they are used for paving utility areas that do not require high aesthetics.

Making vibropressed paving slabs is easier than making vibrocast ones

Double-layer vibration casting

When pouring in two layers, a solution with a coloring pigment is poured into the molds in a layer of 1-2 cm while simultaneously vibrating. On top of the colored solution, without waiting for the front layer to set, the composition of the base layer without dye is poured flush with the edges of the molds and subjected to vibration for 15-30 seconds. After 2 days, the products are removed from the molds and stored for drying in a cool place.

Regardless of the number of layers, the forms filled with mortar are covered with plastic film to prevent premature evaporation of moisture and partial loss of strength of the paving stones.

The purpose of the facing layer is to increase the strength characteristics and aesthetics of paving slabs. This layer is a durable shell with a glossy surface, painted in the selected color by adding a dye to the solution. If instead of gray cement M500 you use white cement of the same brand, then the colored front layer can be made saturated, without a gray tint.

Making your own mortar for paving stones is economical option

Components of face concrete

To make the front layer durable, uniform and glossy, the solution must include the following materials:

• cement M500 (preferably white);
• crushed stone (granite, marble, gravel) fraction 5-10 mm;
• sifted sand in the ratio;
• water;
• color;
• dispersant.

Concrete recipe for forming the face layer

When mixing the front layer, the weight ratio of the amount of cement and AHP is 1:2.

Using the example of a specific operation, we will consider the procedure for mixing the face layer solution in a concrete mixer. 10 liters of water are poured into the mixer, to which dye is first added in the case of the production of colored paving stones. Then pour in 750 grams of an aqueous dispersant solution, turn on the concrete mixer and sequentially fill in 3 buckets of ACHPS and Portland cement M500. After mixing for a minute, 3 more buckets of screenings are added to the concrete mixer.

Concrete is mixed in a concrete mixer in a certain sequence

Mixing is carried out for 15-20 minutes until the solution acquires a homogeneous consistency of thick sour cream, after which the mass is transferred from the concrete mixer to the tub, and molding can be done.

The amount of color in the solution should be no more than 5% of the batch volume. The proportion used must be remembered in case you need to make additional batches.

Forming the face layer of tiles in a mold

After lubricating the inner surface of the molds, the prepared solution is spread into them in a layer of 1-2 cm and compacted by vibration. In the absence of a vibrating table, you can get by by installing the molded products on a sheet of iron and tapping from below rubber mallet. Particularly savvy craftsmen use a washing machine to vibrate, onto which molds are placed while the centrifuge is running in spin mode.

The main difference between paving stones and paving slabs is their shape

Base layer solution components

In the formulation of the solution forming the main layer, the dispersant is replaced by a plasticizer. In the process of preparing the solution, one part of M500 cement is mixed with three parts of crushed stone-sand mixture. The plasticizer is added in the same amount as the dispersant to the front layer.

How to mix concrete to pour the base layer

Let's consider the technology for producing a specific portion of the solution using a concrete mixer.

750 grams of an aqueous solution of plasticizer are stirred in 12 liters of water, after which 5 buckets of AHP and 3 buckets of Portland cement M500 are sequentially poured into a running mixer with liquid, after which another 3-4 buckets of screenings are added. There is no need to color the base material of paving slabs. The concrete is mixed for about a quarter of an hour and, upon reaching the consistency of sour cream, is discharged into the tub.

To mix concrete per 1 square meter at home. paving stones 6 cm thick, you will need:

• Crushed stone-sand mixture – 90 kg;
• Cement M500 – 25 kg;
• Dispersant – 120 grams;
• Plasticizer – 100 grams;
• Dye – 600-800 grams.

Reinforcement of paving stones and pouring the base layer

To increase the strength of the tiles, you can reinforce the product yourself. An ideal fit for reinforcement is a “cut-out” (expanded steel sheet) cut to size, made from a steel sheet 1 or 2 mm thick. The grooved pieces are laid on top of the mortar of the tile face and covered with concrete flush with the edges of the forms. Reinforcement of products at home can also be done using pieces of thick wire or smooth rolled reinforcement placed crosswise, or steel mesh.

To ensure the solidity of the tile, the filling of the second layer is carried out no later than 20 minutes after the formation of the first.

After compacting the solution by vibrating, the molds are laid on a horizontal surface in a cool place for two days until the concrete hardens.

Modern paving slabs are suitable for arranging urban or suburban courtyards

Stripping molds and removing tiles

If the mold is made with your own hands from wooden blocks, then the fastening screws are unscrewed at one of the joints, after which the frame is moved apart and the product is released. The paving stones are given another 10 days to gain strength and dry, laying the tiles in one layer in a cool room.

If polyurethane molds were used to produce the tiles, then the mold with the product is placed in a bath of warm (60 degrees) water for a couple of minutes to soften the polymer, after which the tile is removed and also placed in a cool place for 10 days until it is finally ready for use.

Considering that the tile must be in the mold for two days, you can, having 10 molds at your disposal, daily remove 5 finished products and make 5 further molds.

Paving slabs have become perhaps the only acceptable option for creating pedestrian paths on suburban area, pedestrian paths in parks, sidewalks, barbecue areas. It is indeed more durable than concrete and wood, more practical than gravel and safer than asphalt, but despite its diversity modern tiles, making your site original is becoming increasingly difficult. And prices for complex figured products are often steep. But there is a way out - you can make paving slabs with your own hands at home.

Advantages and disadvantages of homemade tiles

Those who have not yet decided to create homemade tiles are frightened by two considerations: a significant investment of time and doubts about the quality of the finished products. But if you consider the possibility step-by-step production, which allows you to engage in production on weekends or during free time, the process turns out to be not that long. In addition, the cost of materials will also stretch over time, because allocating 10% from the family budget over 3-4 months is much easier than spending half of the monthly income at once.

As for quality, it is enough to adhere to technology and not try to save much, then the finished tile will serve for decades.

The combination of gray and beige tiles (made of white cement) looks stylish and helps save on pigments

Table: comparing the advantages and disadvantages of handicraft paving slabs

As you can see, for every disadvantage of homemade tiles, you can find a corresponding advantage. Therefore, if you want to proudly show off your handiwork to your guests, you can safely begin implementing your planned path design.

Existing manufacturing technologies

The tiles and paving stones that you might have seen among your neighbors are made using only three technologies: pouring into formwork, vibration casting and vibration pressing.

Driveway with imitation paving slabs using stamping method

There is also a technique for simulating paving slabs, when the texture is created with stamps on a wet concrete surface. At first glance, the path may look like it is paved, but in fact it is monolithic concrete slab with all its shortcomings. Taking a closer look at the seams, it is easy to notice that they are inseparable from the slabs and are not capable of draining water into the ground. Therefore, if you liked the imitation version you saw in the photo, we recommend reproducing it using classical technology, from separate slabs. In this case, your copy will last 3-4 times longer than the original.

Pouring into removable formwork

Production of paving slabs by pouring into formwork

The technology of pouring into formwork is the simplest and least labor-intensive way to produce paving slabs. The products are cast directly at the site of use on top of compacted soil, so there is no need to spend any effort on drying and moving the slabs. Since the form is removed while the concrete has not completely hardened, you can use only one form and prepare small portions of the solution in a bucket with a construction mixer (without a concrete mixer). The form can also be filled in part, forming neat curves of the garden path.

But there are also disadvantages:

• the texture of the front surface of the slabs is always the same, since the shape is open and defines only the edge along the perimeter of each fragment;
• the concrete mixture cannot be compacted by vibration, so more plasticizer should be added to ensure strength;
• Despite the addition of binders, the service life of such tiles is several times less than that of vibrocast tiles.

It is quite easy to distinguish a path from such tiles. As a rule, it imitates the layout wild stone with fragments of irregular shape, but the repetition of the pattern is easy to notice. Grass often grows in the seams of such tiles, since they are mounted directly on the ground without sand and gravel cushion and often without backfilling the seams.

Vibrocasting

Vibro-cast paving slabs are the most common option

Vibro-cast slabs are the most common option for paving private areas. The easiest way to distinguish a product of this technology is by design. Neither pouring nor vibration pressing creates a complex tile shape or a fine textured pattern on its surface. The front side of vibro-cast tiles is usually more glossy, and the color is brighter than that of vibro-pressed tiles.

Other advantages of this finishing material include:

• the service life of the tile is several times longer, since vibration during casting expels air bubbles and increases the water and frost resistance of the product;
• lower consumption of plasticizer (compared to pouring into formwork);
• possibility of manufacturing durable quality tiles at home with minimal equipment;
• a wide variety of ready-made forms from different price categories.

The only disadvantage is the small thickness of the slab, which does not allow the finish to withstand high mechanical loads. Smooth tiles also increase the risk of slipping, so we recommend that you select textured shapes for manufacturing.

Vibration pressing

The paving stones in the parking area are vibropressed paving slabs

Vibration pressing - complex technological process. Its main difference from vibration casting is that the solution in the mold is subjected to powerful impacts from a special press. As a result, the density of the concrete-cement mixture increases by an order of magnitude; in its properties, the material is analogous to artificial stone.

Therefore, it is used for paving city sidewalks, paths in parks and parking areas in private areas. Due to its high density, the tiles are very frost-resistant; they can withstand up to 300 freeze/thaw cycles. The method is most often used for production paving stones , not tiles. It is easy to distinguish by its increased thickness and small size (it looks more like a brick than a tile). In addition, such material is usually rougher and its color is paler. Since it is impossible to make a pattern on a separate fragment, to enhance decorative effect

the paving stones are laid in beautiful patterns (you can use a cross stitch pattern at home).

Among the disadvantages of vibration-pressed tiles, one can highlight only the high price and considerable weight, which complicates transportation and installation.

Making paving slabs at home

Having compared the advantages and disadvantages of paving slabs made using different technologies, it is easy to come to the conclusion of making vibration-cast products at home. All that remains is to decide on the equipment and necessary materials. Even with homemade equipment

you can cast good tiles from improvised materials

What is needed for work As a rule, owners country houses have at least a little experience in construction, and many even build their home from the first foundation stone to the ridge on the roof. Therefore some necessary tools

Table: equipment for vibratory casting of paving slabs

How to make a vibrating table yourself

Pouring slabs without vibration reduces the durability of the product by an order of magnitude, although this is not noticeable in appearance at first. Adding an additional volume of plasticizer to the solution slightly improves the situation, but experienced craftsmen still advise using at least a makeshift vibrating table.

Diagram of a simple vibrating table

As can be seen from the diagram, the main difference between a vibrating table and a regular one is that the tabletop is attached to the base not rigidly, but through springs. This allows you to create the necessary vibration and at the same time ensure a stable horizontal position of the tile. If you have an unnecessary one kitchen table with a metal frame, it may well become the basis for the necessary equipment. All that remains is to attach the tabletop through the springs and fix the motor from an old washing machine under it.

If you are determined to make a fully functional analogue of an industrial vibrating table, you should start with a drawing.

Detailed drawing of a vibrating table indicating exact dimensions

In the found drawing you can change:

• height of the legs (the main thing is that there is enough material and it is comfortable for you to use);
• proportions and size of the tabletop (it is desirable that all forms of one batch fit on the table);
• number of springs (if it seems to you that the available springs are weak, you can add more to the four in the corners midline long sides).

If you wish, you can reproduce this drawing exactly, or find a more suitable one on the Internet.

To implement the project you will need the following tools and materials:

• welding machine (a wooden base is not suitable for the product, and the fastening of the frame with bolts will quickly become loose from vibration, so welding is indispensable);
• grinder for cutting metal with appropriate discs (it is better to buy consumables with a reserve);
• drill for drilling mounting holes with a sharp drill bit;
• electric motor (for the production of a small batch, a single-phase motor with a power of 700 W will be enough);
• a sheet of metal for a tabletop with a thickness of 6 mm or more (you can get by with a thinner sheet, but it will need to be reinforced with rods or mesh and welded to the frame from a corner);
• metal corner (to determine the amount of material, add 4 table lengths and 4 widths);
• pipes suitable length for table legs;
• sections of pipes with a diameter 2–4 mm larger than the diameter of the springs (needed to build glasses);
• 4 springs measuring 120x60 mm (used valve springs from a truck engine, which are often thrown away at service stations, are suitable)

The correct spring for a vibrating table sags by 50% under the weight of the tile.

If you can place the vibration table indoors, it is worth attaching it to the floor. There is no need to weld; long hardware secured with self-tightening locknuts will suffice (they only secure it more firmly against vibration).

This model of electronic potentiometer is suitable for operation in a standard 220 Volt power supply.

To create the ideal vibration, you may need to adjust the motor speed. Therefore, when making a vibration table, do not skimp on an electronic potentiometer. He will help you adjust the device for optimal compaction of the tiles.

Let's get started:

1. Weld the frame of the vibrating table following the proposed diagram. Be sure to check the correct angles and placement of the cups under the springs, so that later the tiles lie strictly horizontally and do not “jump” off the table when working.

   An angle clamp is the best device for properly welding right angles

2. Cut the sheet of metal to the required size and weld a narrow strip or corner to it around the perimeter so that a side with a height of at least 5 cm is formed.

   The wider the corner, the higher the side and the more reliable the tabletop

3. Weld the springs to the base and tabletop, placing them exactly in the center of the glasses.

   The springs are welded at the corners of the frame, all that remains is to secure the tabletop

4. Place the electric motor under the tabletop and, if necessary, weld a separate mount for it. Attach a weight with an offset center to the motor shaft.

   The motor mount can be made from leftover corners or pipes

5. Connect the potentiometer and bring the wire with the switch to a convenient side of the table and secure it to the leg.

   If the button is not secured, it may slip due to vibration.

6. Firmly fix the table on the base of the most in a convenient way(the choice depends on where and on what the operating device will be placed). If the table does not move during operation, it is not necessary to secure it.

   Tests of this vibrating table have shown that it is quite massive and does not move during operation.

After assembling the structure, tests should be carried out without tiles and make sure that all connections are secure. If necessary, adjust welds, adjust motor speed, or make other adjustments.

Video: making a vibrating table

Varieties of forms for paving slabs

Tile shapes should be distinguished primarily by design:

• open (essentially a frame without top and bottom) are designed for pouring tiles directly at the place of use;
• Tray molds are only suitable for vibration casting.

There are also special metal forms for vibrocompression, but they are needed only in production.

Diversity non-standard forms for paving slabs

If we talk about the design of paving slabs, here manufacturers offer hundreds of different shapes for making beautiful tiles:

• geometric tiles (squares, rectangles, five-, six-, octagons, circles);
• paving stones (imitation of ancient cobblestones, small bricks, rounded cubes);
• patterned tiles (models “Lily”, “Antique”, “Rondo” and others with fine detailed patterns);
• fantasy forms (leaves, turtles, fish, lizards, puzzles, scales);
• tiles with bas-relief (convex images of Greek heroes, dragons, snakes, Chinese epic characters, etc.).

Manufacturers offer molds for making halves of tiles, which allows you to avoid cutting entire products when laying them.

Table: comparison of forms for paving slabs from different materials

Gallery: molds for paving slabs from different materials

How to make molds with your own hands

Homemade forms for paving slabs are justified in two cases: either you want to save as much as possible, or you are going to create a completely exclusive design. In the first case, you should use available materials: pieces of wood, scraps of plastic, unnecessary trays, molded plastic from packaging.

The process of making patterned paving slabs in homemade form

Let's consider the process of making a mold based on a rubber mat.

To create this shape, you will need a sheet of plastic or any other smooth material and four boards for the sides (you can take an unnecessary box from an old bedside table). The joint between the base and the sides will need to be sealed with construction silicone. It is advisable that the size of the mold be exactly adjusted to the parameters of the rug. The mat should be carefully secured to the bottom with the same construction sealant. To check the correct assembly, try pouring water into the mold, it will help identify cracks. Treat the mold with oil, and you can start pouring it for the first time.

Making tiles in a homemade wooden mold

Wooden formwork can serve as the basis for more complex shapes. For example, such a split hexagon can be made from any pieces of wood found at the dacha; you just need to straighten their geometry and carefully check the dimensions. If desired, you can build a form divided into cells the size of a vibrating table and carry out pouring and drying directly on it.

The process of making a silicone mold for paving stones

The process of creating a silicone mold will not do without formwork. For manufacturing, it is advisable to have a sample of the desired tile or fill the formwork with stones of suitable shape, pebbles, tiles, etc. It is best to fill the bottom of the formwork with sculptural plasticine and place the selected samples on it so that they do not move during pouring. After this, strictly according to the instructions (each manufacturer has its own), mix the components of the silicone compound and fill the formwork with them. You can make several forms in one formwork, or create different variants location or shape of stones.

Using the same technology, homemade molds are made from gypsum, polyurethane, and injection molded plastic.

Before use, molds of any origin should be lubricated with “Emulsol”, spindle oil or an emulsion of 1.5 liters of soap solution and 50 g of vegetable/mineral oil.

Video: testing mold release agents

Materials for the solution

When making the solution you will need:

• cement of a grade not lower than M500 to ensure the strength of the tiles;
• sand (necessarily cleaned and thoroughly sifted) as a filler;
• fine gravel or screenings (filler, strengthens the solution, makes the product textured);
• pure water room temperature without sediment;
• fiberglass for reinforcing tiles, increasing resistance to mechanical loads (instead of fiber, you can lay a reinforcing mesh in each mold);
• plasticizer marked C-3 (makes the solution homogeneous, increases frost and water resistance, reduces cement consumption);
• dye for concrete mixtures in the form of a powder or ready-made solution (if you need colored tiles).

To give the tiles additional water-repellent properties and speed up curing, liquid glass can be added to the solution.

Tiles require fresh cement. Squeeze the powder in your fist: if it’s all spilled out, it’s fine; if it’s gathered in a lump, it’s too old.

How to mix the solution

1. Moisten the walls of the concrete mixer, pour 2 liters of warm water into the tank and completely dissolve the plasticizer in it.

   Liquid plasticizer is easier to work with, it dissolves quickly and without lumps

2. In a separate container, mix the dye with hot water in a ratio of 1:3 and stir until completely dissolved.

   The higher the pigment concentration, the brighter the tile will be.

3. When you are sure that there are no lumps in both solutions, mix them and add sand to the concrete mixer, after 30 seconds - screening, 20 seconds after that - cement. Add water as needed until the specified volume is used.

   Calculate the volume of one portion so that your concrete mixer can mix it thoroughly

4. The finished mass should be homogeneous, without foreign inclusions, and should stay on the trowel in a heap without slipping.

   It is easy to work with a solution of the correct consistency using a trowel of any shape.

Table: optimal proportions of components for paving slabs

How to cast, dry and remove formwork

1. The finished solution is poured into greased molds, or directly on a vibrating table.

   Rectangular shapes are placed more tightly on the table, which allows you to increase the batch

2. After this, vibration starts, during which the mixture thickens and will need to be topped up. Keep a batch of tiles without plasticizer on the vibrating table for 3 minutes, without it - 30 seconds, or until white foam appears.

   The foam is clearly visible on the forms, which means the air has already left the solution.

3. Next, you should wrap the filled forms with film and leave them to dry on a rack for 2-3 days.

   OSB sheets + pipe scraps = temporary shelving

4. Dried tiles can be easily removed from the mold; just bend the ends and shake the product onto a soft surface. But if that doesn’t work, dip the mold in hot water for a few seconds - the mold will expand and the tile will slip out.

   Vertical stacking prevents tiles from splitting during storage

Video: DIY paving slabs

Laying paving slabs with your own hands - step-by-step instructions

Laying paving slabs yourself will not be physically easy, so it is worth inviting one or two assistants to do the work.

Required materials and tools

• trowel for working with mortar;
• mallet for tapping tiles;
• manual rammer;
• marking pegs and cord;
• water level;
• pipe/beam as a guide;
• watering can or watering hose to compact the sand bed;
• rake, broom;
• cement grade M500;
• clean sifted sand.

Execution of work

1. Draw a plan for the location of the paths and mark the area using pegs and a cord. Please note that for normal drainage you need to make a slope of 5 mm per 1 m of length.
2. Prepare the base of the walkway by removing upper layer soil with grass and compacting the remaining soil. This can be done with a manual tamper, but it is better to rent a special vibrating machine. The depth of the resulting trench should be 20–30 cm.

   Methods for creating cushions for paving slabs

3. Lay the tiles on top of the pillow away from you, taking into account the position of the marking cord. Seam width is adjustable plastic crosses. If necessary, cut the tiles into fragments to densely fill the space between the borders. Level the position of the tiles with a mallet.

   A contrasting border makes the path more original

Video: laying paving slabs

Determining profitability

On average, it turns out that 1 m2 of homemade paving slabs costs 55% less than purchased ones. And if you consider that the mold resource is enough for 100–200 cycles, subsequent batches will be even more profitable. Of course, with the current level of competition, creating a business for the production of paving slabs is no longer profitable, but it is worth producing it for your own needs.

Now you have everything necessary knowledge in order to successfully produce and lay beautiful and durable paving slabs on your site.

Every owner who wants his property to look beautiful and be functional tries to do a lot of things with his own hands. Especially if he is a creative person. From this article you can learn how to make paving slabs with your own hands.

Where is the product used?

In principle, the scope of application of such material is quite wide. Most often you can see such products in the private areas of residential buildings, cottages, bathhouses or other buildings. You can also lay such tiles in gardens, squares, parks and other in public places. Naturally, in the latter case, ready-made material is purchased.

Before you begin to understand how to make paving slabs with your own hands, you need to figure out whether it’s worth doing, what advantages the finished product has, and what you need to prepare for work. First of all, it must be said that the manufacturing process is not complicated and does not require expensive equipment.

Advantages of the material

Before you make paving slabs with your own hands, you should consider its advantages. Among them are the following:

Originality of elements. During the manufacturing process, you can play with colors and fillers. This way, you will create exactly the design and shape of the tiles that you want. Naturally, you should be careful here, because the proportions of the ingredients depend specifications products.

Low cost. Naturally, before you make paving slabs with your own hands, you need to select the necessary materials that must have high quality. You should not “buy” on cheap cement.

Relative strength (although you should not place these elements where the car will drive).

Manufacturing of products directly on site.

No need for expensive equipment. However, if you decide to open your own business, then you cannot do without a couple of machines.

Ecological cleanliness.

Resistance to rapid wear and durability (if all manufacturing steps are performed correctly).

Minimal risk of injury.

Now let's look at the question of how to make paving slabs with your own hands.

What materials will be needed?

Naturally, all ingredients must be of the highest quality. So, for work you need to prepare:

1. Cement (only M-500 grade is required, since this type of material allows you to make a mixture that, after hardening, will be very strong).

4. Small pebbles.

5. Color (one or more).

6. Plasticizer (sold at a hardware store).

All ingredients must be free of impurities (debris, leaves, grass). Also, before making paving slabs with your own hands, collect everything necessary materials and necessary tools.

Required equipment

So, in order for the product manufacturing process to go relatively quickly, you need to take care of everything in advance technical devices, which will help speed up your work. So, you will need:

Concrete mixer. If there are several of them, that's good. In this case, the process will go faster.

Forming vibration table. You can also build it yourself. Although this machine is not mandatory.

Set of forms. It is better if there are several dozen of them.

Tables or racks that will be installed as level as possible. Otherwise, the mixture in the molds may harden incorrectly, with distortion. Naturally, such elements will already be considered defective, since they cannot be laid evenly.

A tool for removing finished products from containers.

Since almost every person can do it, we should consider the technology for carrying out the work.

Features of form selection

This question is not difficult. Most often for homemade The presented material uses plastic molds. They may have different sizes. In addition, our construction market presents a huge selection of types of such forms. That is, you have the opportunity to do very original tiles, which no one else will have. Naturally, such a container must be strong enough so that it can be used more than once.

Before you make it yourself, you need to decide on the shape of the containers: square, round or some other. If you don't want to buy this material in the store, you can use regular plastic food containers. However, they won't last long.

Features of preparing the solution

Before you make paving slabs yourself, you should find out in what proportions you need to mix the ingredients so that the elements subsequently turn out to be of high quality and durable. You will need the following amount of materials for one batch:

It must be stirred thoroughly. And in order to ensure that there is no air in the solution, it will need to be processed on a vibrating table.

Manufacturing instructions

Now let's look at the question of how to actually make paving slabs yourself. The whole process involves several stages that cannot change their sequence:

1. Preparation of the solution. All ingredients must be mixed thoroughly. This can provide Although gravity works just as well.

2. Filling of molds, as well as vibration compaction of the mixture. This should be done carefully. Filling is done with a regular shovel. For compaction you will need a vibrating table. Its fluctuations should not be too strong. That is, make sure that the solution in the mold is distributed evenly. This compaction will make the elements as strong as possible and prevent their delamination. When loading concrete, take into account its level. It should be the same in all forms. To do this, you can simply make marks on the inside of the container.

3. Maturing and drying of elements. Since you want to make paving slabs at home quickly, many manufacturers may violate production technology. The quality of the elements suffers from this. Therefore, you should maintain the time allotted for the concrete to mature and dry. So, after compacting the molds with the mixture, they should “rest” on a flat surface for at least two days. To ensure that the ripening goes well and the cement does not crack due to loss of moisture, the containers should be well wrapped with plastic film.

4. Removal of finished products from molds. Now you understand how to make paving slabs at home, you also know the composition of the mixture. However, you should consider the question of how to properly remove ready-made elements from molds so that they do not break or crack. To do this, it is better to place them in a bath of water, the temperature of which will not exceed 70 degrees.

5. Warehousing of products. In order for the concrete to dry further, it is necessary to cover the tiles with shrink film.

After all these steps, the product is almost ready for installation. Naturally, it should be given time to gain strength. It's best to leave the material alone for a few weeks. Now you understand how to make paving slabs at home.

What is “plastic bottle tile”?

The problem of recycling recyclable materials is very relevant today. However, a way to use plastic bottles has been invented, which involves reducing the degree of contamination environment. They learned how to make sidewalk tiles from them. Moreover, this process can take place both at home and in production.

Before making paving slabs from plastic bottles, you should consider the features of this procedure. Its advantage is the low cost of the product, as well as the absence of problems with the amount of raw materials.

The production of such material is divided into the following stages:

Grinding of raw materials.

Melting plastic in a special heating apparatus and mixing it with raw sand and pigment.

Pouring the resulting solution into molds and pressing.

Cooling of the tiles.

It should be noted that such a product is characterized by durability, high strength and abrasion resistance, external beauty, variety of shapes, speed of production.

Making paving slabs with your own hands is not very difficult. However, the process has some nuances. For example, if you want to significantly save color, you can use the layer-by-layer casting technique. Naturally, in this case you will need two concrete mixers. The layers are laid alternately, and the colorless one should be on the inside. The thickness of each is 1-2 cm.

If you have defective pieces of tile, you can break it up and re-use it in mortar. New forms can be treated with a special substance so that the concrete subsequently moves away from the walls better. After use, the plastic should be washed with a weak solution. of hydrochloric acid. You can make molds for work yourself using silicone or wood. Naturally, these elements will need to be well fastened before work.

Please note that the plasticizer helps increase the strength of the elements, as well as their resistance to temperature changes. However, you should not add too much of it. For the manufacture of the presented building material, not only concrete can be used.

Now you know how to make paving slabs at home. Good luck!

To create coziness, various finishing materials are used. Paving slabs are quite popular. With your own hands you can make high-quality products that have an attractive appearance. We invite you to get acquainted with the manufacturing technology and characteristics of the raw materials used.

Read in the article

Which tiles are of better quality - homemade or industrial?

According to most users, material made in industrial conditions. Characterized by its higher cost, it has better performance characteristics and more long term services. This is facilitated by high density concrete with a minimum number of pores. Products manufactured in compliance with technological requirements practically do not absorb water, do not crumble, and differ high stability to abrasion.

Those who want to buy a specific color and shape may find it difficult due to the limited choice. If you make it yourself, you can mold a product of any size and shape. The introduction of a certain dye into the solution will allow you to achieve the desired color.

Methods for producing paving slabs

Paving slabs can be made by vibration pressing and vibration casting. We invite you to get acquainted with the features of each method.

Vibration pressing

The paving slabs are formed using a vibration press. A solution containing a small amount of water is placed in a mold. Under the influence of vibration and pressure, the composition begins to compact. The formed workpiece is sent to the drying chamber. While under the influence high temperature, the product acquires strength sufficient for the use of this material when performing finishing work in places with intense load.

Vibrocasting

When producing material using this method, vibration is used to compact the working mixture. It promotes uniform distribution of the solution over the mold with simultaneous compaction. The filled mold is sent to, where the workpiece is dried for two days.

Attention! If you are planning to make paving stones with your own hands, it is worth taking a closer look at vibratory casting technology. This method can be implemented at home with minimal financial investment.

Advantages and disadvantages of vibro-cast and vibro-pressed tiles

Paving slabs produced by vibration casting have the following advantages:

The disadvantages include:

• low productivity of the manufacturing process due to the lack of process automation;
• the difficulty of ensuring the geometric accuracy of products due to the repeated use of forms. Opposite surfaces may not be parallel;
• short service life.

The advantages of vibropressed tiles manufactured by many companies include:

• possibility of forming a two-layer product;
• high precision manufacturing of each element, regardless of the batch produced;
• rough front surface, significantly reducing the risk of slipping;
• long service life;
• high strength characteristics;
• short production times due to automation of the production process.

The disadvantages include:

• the high cost of manufacturing at home due to the high costs of purchasing equipment;
• impossibility of obtaining products of saturated color.

Basic geometric shapes of paving stones and paving slabs

The material is presented in large assortment, which allows you to create a surface with a suitable appearance and optimal characteristics. Most often preference is given to:

1. Paving stones, which does not create difficulties during the installation process. Imitates stonework. A practical material that allows you to create various designs, including multi-color ones.
2. Gzhelka. Paving slabs with a characteristic edge treatment reminiscent of flower petals. The coating is formed by using elements of two sizes.
3. Clover. Products with characteristic rounded “petals” at the edges.
4. Brick, having rectangular shape. A type of tile widely used in paving.
5. Reel, received its name because of its external resemblance to a spool of thread, tapering towards the center.
6. To the turtle. Square elements with a characteristic pattern.
7. A well that creates an imitation of masonry. Small parts diverge in the radial direction.
8. Florida. A pattern with rounded, smooth and raised lines is formed on the surface of square products. When laying four products, you can form an even circle.
9. California. A rectangular product with a square located in the center, which is framed by four rectangles.
10. Checkers. Square products with a characteristic relief.
11. Four. The formed pattern conventionally divides the product into four parts.
12. Eight. The pattern imitates eight rectangular bricks.
13. Square. Square tiles with a smooth surface.

Making paving slabs with your own hands at home: step-by-step instructions

It can be difficult to decide to make paving slabs with your own hands at home. Step by step instructions with detailed description each stage allows you to understand the intricacies of the work. We invite you to get acquainted with the nuances and subtleties of the process.

Equipment and tools for the production of paving slabs

The choice of equipment depends on the scale of production. Should have in stock:

1. Concrete mixer. It is almost impossible to ensure the homogeneity of the solution by manual mixing. When making a small batch, you can use a drill with an attachment.
2. Vibrating table For a new factory-made device you will have to pay about $500. You can reduce costs by making your own vibrating surface.
3. Forms. Can be purchased now ready-made forms for making paving stones or making them yourself. Preference should be given to silicone products if you want to form a complex structural surface, and to plastic ones if you have low requirements for the pattern being formed. Plastic products have high strength and durability. Polyurethane molds occupy an intermediate option between plastic and silicone.
4. Rack and, under which the formed tiles will dry.

Attention! The racks must have a horizontal surface to prevent changes in the geometry of the paving slabs during the drying process.

It is also worth preparing a bucket, a building level and rubber gloves. You can start working if the air temperature exceeds +10°C.

Making molds for paving slabs with your own hands

The configuration and parameters of paving slabs depend on the geometric parameters of the shape used. If you cannot buy a mold for paving slabs that meets certain requirements, it can be made using available materials. Most often, preference is given to wood or metal. Such forms usually do not have a bottom. You can make a metal mold for paving slabs with your own hands as follows:

Photo	Description of work
	We create a drawing of the future form. We cut all elements to size.
	We form the contours of the future shape, ensuring high geometric accuracy of the product.

To obtain a plastic mold, you must first make wooden frame, inner dimensions which correspond to the dimensions of the paving slabs. The prepared space is filled with molten plastic. After the solution has hardened, the plastic mold is removed and treated with sandpaper.

A comment

Landscape designer at VENUS DESIGN studio

“For a mold for paving slabs 500x500x50 mm, the internal space should have similar geometric parameters.”

Composition of mortar for paving slabs - components and instructions for production

The characteristics of the mortar used have a significant impact on the properties of the resulting tile. You can prepare the composition with your own hands as follows:

Photo	Description of work
	We prepare a sufficient amount of Portland cement. The material must have good strength.
	We prepare a plasticizer that allows us to reduce the percentage of water. You can take C-3, which dissolves in hot water. For colored tiles you will need a coloring pigment. It should be dissolved in water in advance.
	Prepare the sand. You can use river or sea. The sand should be sifted before preparing the solution.
	We prepare crushed stone with a fraction of 5–20 mm.
	Mix the mixture in a concrete mixer, adding to 12 kg 10 kg of sand, 20 kg of crushed stone, 70 kg of plasticizer, 250–350 g of coloring pigment, 3–4 liters of water. The prepared mixture should not spread.

Tinting homemade paving products

The color of the finished paving slabs depends on the characteristics of the pigment dye used. To obtain a rich shade, at least 2% color should be added to the solution. With less quantity the product will turn out pale.

Advice! You can reduce the amount of pigment dye used by pouring two layers of the mixture: with and without tinting.

If during the production process a coloring pigment was not introduced into the mixture for some reason, it is possible to color the finished product. Enough labor-intensive process. You can increase productivity by using a spray gun. However, in this case it is rarely possible to form a uniform coating.

Rules for drying paving slabs and paving stones

Having prepared the mixtures, begin production ceramic tiles with your own hands:

Photo	Description of work
	The solution is applied to the prepared form and placed on a vibrating table.
	To compact the solution and reduce the amount of oxygen, turn on a vibrating table.
	As the mixture shrinks, concrete is poured into each mold.
	The formed product is covered with film and sent for drying.

When drying, you should adhere to the following rules:

• it is worth highlighting a special room or canopy;
• air temperature should be +18…+20°С;
• drying at +10°C involves adding special frost-resistant components to the solution.

Features of stripping finished products

After a week, the paving slabs can be removed from the mold. To do this, lay a rag on a flat surface. After laying the tiles upside down, carefully tap the shape with a mallet. The dried product is easily separated from the mold.

Advice! It is better to dry the released form in the sun.

After removing the paving slabs from the mold, each element should be dried for two weeks. This time is required for the concrete to gain strength.

How to check the quality of finished tiles

There are a number of signs by which you can determine the quality of paving slabs:

• a characteristic ringing sound produced when two elements collide;
• the color is more dull than bright. Excessive brightness of the material indicates a high percentage of coloring pigment, which reduces the strength of the elements;
• uniform color of the manufactured batch;
• absence of characteristic defects on the surface: chips, cracks, bubbles.

Making a vibrating table for paving slabs with your own hands - drawings

Considering the high cost finished equipment, you can make a vibrating table for paving slabs with your own hands. Blueprints future design are developed taking into account the geometric parameters of the tiles, which will be compacted using a specific vibrating table. The size of the tabletop directly depends on this. The manufacturing process includes the following steps:

Photo	Description of work
	The frame of the table top and the base of the vibrating table are made from rolled metal.
	Bolts are welded at the corners of the base.
	A washer and a spring are placed on top of the bolts.
	To fix the spring at the corners of the tabletop, glasses made from scraps are welded from below.
	The vibrating table is assembled to check the required spatial position of the tabletop relative to the base.
	A motor is welded to the bottom of the tabletop, with the help of which vibration will be created. Can be used .
	We weld an eccentric from thick sheet metal. The tabletop frame and base should be painted to protect against corrosion.
	We provide a protective casing.
	We install the start button in the junction box.
	Making a covering for the table top. You can use textolite with a thickness of 5 mm.
	We attach the tabletop to the frame. We are testing the table.

How much does industrially produced paving slabs cost?

If the option of self-production is not considered, it is worth purchasing a ready-made one. The price of paving slabs is presented in the table:

Image	Model, characteristics	Average price, rub./m²
	Paving stones - 200×100×40 mm.	490
	Coil − 200×165×80 mm.	580
	Wave − 225×112×60 mm.	470
	Rhombus - 200×200×60 mm.	470