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How to seal the seams between the slabs on the ceiling: quick elimination of the defect. How to close the joint between the suspended ceiling and the wall: plastic plinth or decorative molding? How to close the joint between

Every home craftsman who has started tiling for the first time knows how to join tiles in corners. And only with experience comes the understanding that in construction there are no perfectly right angles, and therefore laying tiles is not at all as simple as it might seem at first glance. Over the years comes true mastery, and it turns out that there are not one, not two, but many more ways to design both the outer and inner corners. And each of them has the right to exist, and can be the only true one in a certain situation.

First thing's first - layout!

And the cladding of any room begins with the layout, since in standard apartments Not only do there not exist perfectly right angles, but there are no ideal angles either. smooth walls. The tiler carefully measures the room, assesses the condition of the walls and floors, and inspects the corners to choose a design method for each. It depends on which method of joining tiles in the outer and inner corners is chosen:

• choosing a tool to perform the work;
• the amount of tiles purchased in excess of the norm, in reserve;
• actually, the layout itself.

Basic layout rules

The layout begins with the surface that will be most noticeable. For example, for a bathroom - this is the wall located opposite front door. It is laid out first, and only then the walls adjacent to it. The temptation to start tiling from the corner is great, but if you succumb to it, it is almost guaranteed that cracks will appear in the corners and under the ceiling, sometimes several centimeters wide, which will have to be laid out with tiny scraps. As a result, the deviation of the wall from the vertical will be very noticeable, and the customer will have an extremely negative impression of the work of the master. Therefore, when making a layout, you need to adhere to certain rules:

How to join tiles in inner corners

There are very few options for decorating an internal corner. You can do this in the following ways:

• using an overhead corner (trim)
• design of a regular seam without additional details.

Making a corner using a plastic profile

This option is used in internal vertical corners, as a rule, by novice masters. With experience comes the understanding that plastic part, rarely perfectly matching in color with, rather cheapens than decorates the interior. An exception to the rule is the use of trims at the junction of the floor and wall covering. Here, a corner is almost always appropriate and desirable. They don't like plastic corners in the bathroom and the housewife - because they quickly become dirty, but tiles are much more difficult to maintain.

Easy pairing of 2 rows of tiles

Joining the tiles yourself in the inner corner has clear advantages. Firstly, a corner designed in this way looks more organic, especially in small rooms. Secondly, this method does not require additional parts, which will further increase the cost of repairs.

Of course, the simple pairing method also has disadvantages. This is the professionalism of a master like necessary condition and a high probability of cracking along the seam due to the natural tendency of the tiles to both contract and expand. This problem especially often arises when facing plasterboard structures, but on brick walls This is very rare.

To prevent the formation of cracks, use:

• correct calculation of seam width;
• use of sanitary silicone in vertical internal corners.

Important! Making an internal corner without using an overlay corner and without finishing a seam is unacceptable! The result of this installation will be a black gap at the junction. To correct appearance It will be possible only with silicone. But it’s unlikely to be able to match it exactly to the grout.

How to join tiles in outer corners

There are many more ways to design an external corner. This:

• use of trims and ;
• technology for cutting tile ends at an angle of 45°;
• easy installation one row of tiles on the edge of another;
• forming a corner using grout.

Method 1. Using a trim corner to lay out external corners

Today stores offer a wide range corner profiles for laying tiles. They are made from plastic, aluminum and even brass and can be the most different colors and sizes. The size of the corner must be selected based on the thickness of the selected tile, which is usually 7, 9 or 11 mm.

Interestingly, in most European countries trims are used everywhere, due to the ease of the method of decorating corners. In Russia, the mass fashion for corners is slowly but surely declining for a number of reasons:

• the desire to be different from everyone else;
• the small size of most apartments, in which unnecessary details in the cladding split the room, visually making it even smaller;
• the fragility of plastic trims and their high tendency to become dirty;
• high cost metal corners;
• the emergence of new, more aesthetic methods of cladding external corners.

Installation of trim corner

Installation of a decorative corner is carried out after one wall in the room has been completely lined. Then along the entire height of the corner using mounting gun Silicone sealant is applied. The flat side of the trim is applied to the already laid tile, while the groove of the part remains free to lie on the adjacent wall. IN further tiles is laid along this wall from bottom to top, and the master inserts the edge of the facing material into the groove of the corner. A day after finishing the work, the seams between the tiles and the trim are rubbed down. The decorative element is installed in horizontal corners in the same way.

Method 2. Cutting the edge of the tile at an angle of 45°

If the question “How to connect tiles in the outer corners?” the master replies: “Of course, at an angle of 45°!” - in front of you is a real professional. Simply because this method is too difficult for beginners, because it requires experience, firmness of movement and a lot of time. In addition, it is impossible to do without good tool, namely angular grinder. It works using a diamond disc. If you need to cut double-fired tiles, it is better to use a tile cutter with a rotating frame.

The disadvantage of this design is the fragility of the resulting angle. You just have to hit the edge of the masonry well, and with a high probability the tile will break off. However, fans of the method are ready to put up with this, because no other method of designing a corner gives such a harmonious result: the beveled edges fit perfectly together and form a perfectly right angle with a thin, barely noticeable gap.

Method 3: Laying one row of tiles on the edge of another

This technique is good for beginners, because there is nothing complicated about it. At first facing material one wall is completely laid out, then another, the outer tiles of which simply overlap the edge of the tiles laid perpendicularly. Very often, this installation method is chosen for laying tiles with relief, because in most cases it is chosen, succumbing to the opinion that seams, joints and unevenness of the walls will not be so noticeable on the textured surface. This is true, just like the fact that it is very difficult to join the embossed one beautifully in the corners.

Another variation of the laying method is staggered: in the first row, tiles of one wall are placed on top, in the second - another, and so on. Very often this method is used when tiling rooms. The result is a deliberately careless masonry, most appropriate in country or loft style interiors.

Method 4: Forming a corner using grout

Its essence: laying tiles without trimming and without protrusion on the outer corner. The resulting gap is shaped into a semicircle using grout or other adhesives. It must be admitted that this technique is still unpopular, both among craftsmen and customers. Although it solves a common problem: eliminating the fragility of the outer corner and preventing seam cracking, which is especially common on plasterboard walls. Therefore, any tiler should know how to close joints in corners using grout.

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How to join tiles in corners

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Today laminate is the most relevant and in demand flooring, which is used in almost all rooms and spaces.

However, using it in rooms such as a hallway or kitchen is not entirely practical or advisable. For such rooms the best option will ceramic tiles. However, laminate flooring in the kitchen can be used in the dining area, and the rest of the room is tiled. And here the question arises: how to close the joint between the tiles and the laminate (see video below)?

In order for the joint to look neat and beautiful, it must be properly hidden. Keep in mind that the tiles differ in thickness. Therefore, they need to be laid out at the same level to achieve a smooth transition. Do not forget to leave a distance of 0.5 cm between the laminate and the tiles so that the wood different temperatures and humidity could expand or contract without being damaged or swelling.

Threshold installation

A convenient and most popular way to seal the joint between tiles and laminate is to install thresholds. Using the same technology you can close any joints flooring materials eg: between tile and tile. Today you are offered a huge selection of thresholds. They vary in material: plastic thresholds, wooden thresholds, metal thresholds or aluminum, etc. There are different types and flowers. Let's take a closer look at the most popular ones.

Wooden thresholds

Wooden thresholds are the most popular, as well as environmentally friendly and the most beautiful. They fit perfectly with laminate flooring. This can be seen even from the photo. However, with all this, they are inferior in flexibility to plastic thresholds. And therefore they are not used for wavy joints. I would also like to note that wooden thresholds are difficult to use and require special care.

Plastic sill

For a wavy joint, a plastic threshold is perfect. They are relatively new on the market, but quickly became popular and in demand. The thresholds bend well, taking the desired shape and protecting the joint from dust and dirt.

Metal threshold

If you want to use a more durable material for the threshold, then choose metal. Metal thresholds are perfect for any interior, as you can choose required color material from the variety available on the market. The metal threshold can be chosen to match the color of the laminate or tile, and you can also consider the color of any interior elements and thereby emphasize the design. If the situation arises that laminate and tiles are lying on different levels, then in this case you can use a multi-level metal threshold, which will help smooth out the difference.

Aluminum and rubber thresholds

Aluminum thresholds are used mainly for smooth joints. And for wavy joints, rubber thresholds are better suited. will not be difficult. This work can be done with your own hands and in just a few minutes. Just remember to leave 0.5 cm between materials. To secure the threshold, you must make holes in the tie for screws in advance. As a rule, they are sold complete with a threshold. It is enough to screw the threshold with screws so that it is motionless.

Fastening the thresholds

It happens that the kit does not include screws. In this case, the threshold between the tile and the laminate can be secured in a different way. You need to fill the gap right away silicone sealant so that dust and moisture do not get into the gap. To fasten the thresholds, you can use fastening strips, which are screwed with self-tapping screws to the screed. It is on the fastening slats that the threshold for laminate and tiles is then attached. Alternatively, you can use liquid nails.

Flexible threshold or molding

To close wavy joints of various materials, you can also use a flexible threshold. It is installed on a plastic profile with bulges, with which it is attached above the floor covering. Additional fixation with screws will be required. To make the molding more flexible, before installing it, you should immerse the threshold in warm water for about 20-30 minutes.

Why use thresholds and moldings

A threshold or molding is needed to close the joint between the tiles and the laminate and give it an attractive appearance. The thresholds also prevent the entry of dust and moisture, which will protect your laminate from the inside. The thresholds also hide the contraction and expansion of the laminate. It also allows you to zone the space.

There will inevitably be seams between the floor slabs on the ceiling.

Do not combine old putty with new putty. The old putty has already dried out, lumps have formed in it, due to which it will be impossible to achieve a smooth ceiling.

They do not decorate the interior of the room at all. To seal them, you need to do the following:

• expand by removing concrete aggregate from the joint;
• cover it with a primer;
• fill the seam with foam;
• cut off excess foam after it dries;
• level the surface using gypsum plaster mixture;
• perform final leveling of the ceiling;
• Use PVA glue to glue a strip of thin non-woven fabric or gauze to the joint;
• putty the seams;
• After the putty has dried, sand it with emery cloth or mesh.

Tools and materials

To perform ceiling repair work may need:

• spatula with an elastic flexible blade;
• dry gypsum putty (preferably Knauf, Uniflot);
• drill or hammer drill;
• masking tape;
• mixer attachment for drill;
• PVA glue;
• primer with deep penetration properties;
• fine-grain sandpaper or sanding mesh;
• construction gun;
• acrylic sealant.

Return to contents

Work order

Repairing irregularities in the ceiling can take place in the following sequence:

1. Expand the seam between the floor slabs using an electric hammer drill with a spatula-shaped attachment. Use a spatula or knife to remove pieces of old cement screed and filler.
2. Clean the ceiling surface and cracks from dust. Prepare the primer according to the instructions for use. Use a brush to coat the ceiling seams. The primer should penetrate well into the cracks. The primer layer must be dried.
3. Prepare gypsum plaster according to the attached instructions. Mix the mixture thoroughly construction mixer. A small volume can be mixed with a spatula. The prepared solution for sealing joints should have the consistency of very thick sour cream. It carefully fills all the cracks and unevenness on the ceiling. It is better to repair deep cracks in several steps. Each layer dries well. A seam of large width and depth can be filled with polyurethane foam. After drying, cut off excess foam with a knife. The sealing ends with the application of a leveling layer gypsum plaster, thoroughly rubbing it into the pores of the foam.
4. After the seams have completely dried, they are coated with PVA glue and sealed with a strip masking tape. The width of the tape should be 2-3 cm wider than the seams. A thin layer of putty is applied over the tape.
5. After the repaired seams have dried, another layer of primer is applied to the entire surface of the ceiling and finishing putty. It is better to apply it with a wide spatula in as thin a layer as possible. Instead of finishing putty or plaster, you can glue the surface with glass cloth, prime and paint the ceiling. Sealing ceiling seams finished.

Sealing seams is not very easy. The material hardens for a long time, the putty tends to fall down. You need to hold it with a spatula for several seconds. The main thing in this work is not to rush. Otherwise, you will have to redo all the work again.

The easiest way to hide unevenness and cracks in the ceiling is with a stretch ceiling. Another option is to mount a suspended, possibly multi-level, ceiling made of plasterboard sheets. You can use fiberglass painting mesh and various dry mixtures. A fiberglass mesh with a mesh size of 2x2 mm is laid over each seam between the floor slabs. It also masks the seams in plasterboard ceiling. On such a ceiling, they are first glued with paper tape, and only then reinforced with mesh.

You can seal the seam between the plasterboard sheets in the following sequence:

1. Joint and surface part plasterboard sheet coated with putty mixture in a layer about a millimeter thick.
2. Placed on the seam paper tape, pressed into the solution, smoothed with a spatula and covered with a thin layer of putty.
3. Excess putty mass is removed with a wide spatula.
4. Each seam is sealed in a similar manner.
5. After the putty has dried, the seams are sanded with emery cloth or mesh and primed.
6. A fiberglass mesh is attached to the surface of the entire ceiling. You can temporarily secure it with pushpins. A layer of putty is applied over the mesh and then carefully smoothed. The putty penetrates through the mesh cells and firmly adheres it to the sheets of drywall. Excess putty is removed with a spatula.
7. After drying, the ceiling is sanded and primed again.
8. If necessary, apply a final leveling layer of putty. It should completely hide the traces of screws and seams, mesh and paper. The sealing of the seams on the ceiling is completed.

As a result, at least two layers of putty are applied to the ceiling surface. Using a grid adds at least one more. Between applying these layers, the surface is dried, sanded and primed. In order to save time, you should not reduce the number of these cycles. This preliminary work guarantees the quality and durability of the ceiling. Only after this is the ceiling ready for final finishing. You can paint it any color, cover it with wallpaper, tiles, and so on. The approximate consumption of dry mixture for putty is 1 kg per 3-4 square meters area of ​​plasterboard ceiling.

Experienced craftsmen know how to make the joint between tile and tile unnoticeable. Of course, if it comes to a straight surface (floor or wall), then there are no problems with joining tiles and tiles. Plastic crosses are usually installed between them, which determine the width of the seam. After the adhesive has dried, the crosses are removed and the seam is filled with a fugue. It's very simple. The hardest part is joining the tiles in the corners.

There are several technologies for joining tiles in corners, where different devices are used. The simplest option is to install a special tile, which is a corner. True, this element can be used to cover an external corner, for example, the protrusion of a column or step.

The process of laying corner tiles is no different from straight ones. She is also put on glue solution, which is applied to two adjacent planes adjacent to one corner of the room. The adhesive composition is leveled with a notched trowel, the tiles are laid in place and leveled. Even a novice master can handle this process. It is important here to accurately align the cladding in planes, placing crosses between the elements.

Using Trims

The most popular option for finishing corners is the use of trims. These are special profile inserts that are made of plastic. For external corners trims are L-shaped profiles, for internal ones it is a profile in the form of a concave arc. Before moving on to the cladding, it is necessary to glue the profile itself. To do this, you can use liquid nails, sealants or the tile adhesive itself.

It should be noted that installing trims is not only an even joint between tiles, it is a unique design approach to solving the issue of room design. A good trim, precisely matched to the color of the tile, is also an excellent protection for the junction of the cladding elements, it is also decorative element in the interior.

Trimming tile edges

This is probably the most difficult option For exterior finishing corners of the room. The thing is that the ends of the two joined tiles are cut at an angle of 45°. This is not at all easy to do, especially if we are talking about pruning with your own hands.

For this procedure you can use a grinder, electric tile cutter. A tile cutter is most effective if its design has an inclined bed. That is, ceramic material is brought under the cutter at an angle that can be adjusted using inclined stops. Making a cut with a grinder is very difficult. This requires a steady hand and a keen eye. But even after this, you will have to work on the end with sandpaper, bringing it to maximum accuracy.

The process of gluing tiles with an undercut is no different from the standard operation. Glue is also applied onto which the tiles are installed. The main requirement is to accurately fit the tiles together so that they create a single whole covering covering the corner of the room.

Internal corners

Now, as for internal corners. Everything is clear with trims; special profiles are used here. The joint can also be made with a 45° cut. True, you will have to prune in reverse side, that is, from the outside to the back. It is very important not to damage the front side of the cladding, which may make it impossible to install the tiles.

Eat old way, which masters have always used. To do this, the tiles were joined together so that one of them went under the end of the other. It was not always beautiful, especially if the quality and size of the cladding itself left much to be desired. Therefore, such a connection had to be sealed with grout or sealed using various kinds materials.

Attention! If tiles are joined at the corner between the wall and the floor, then the overlay of one element on another will depend on the purpose of the room itself. So in the bathroom, ceramic floor tiles should go behind the wall tiles. This is done with one sole purpose - to prevent condensation that flows down the walls from penetrating under the floor elements.

All of the above options for joining tiles together do not always mean the quality of the final result. Especially if a beginner is doing the finishing. Therefore there are various materials, with which you can hide cladding defects. And then the question arises, what is the best way to seal the joint? In principle, standard options two: grout and decorative profile. The second one is better because it completely hides the corner, and therefore the defects. At the same time, it is installed on the finished cladding, gluing it either with liquid nails or with sealant (preferably silicone).

We must pay tribute to the manufacturers who are trying to find ways to protect the junction of the tiles and the bathtub from leaks. In fact, this is the most dangerous area for water to penetrate under a plumbing fixture, where it will collect and become a source of mold and mildew. And it will be hard to get rid of them.

Options to close this joint.

• If the wall under the bathroom is lined in the same way as the rest of the surface, that is, the device will be pressed against the lining, then it is best to install a special border (plinth) made of plastic or ceramic at the joint. In this case, the joint must be treated with silicone sealant before installing the curb. And he sits on it plastic border. Ceramic is usually laid on adhesive composition, which glued the tiles to the wall.
• You can also seal the joint with a sealant if the gap is not very large, no more than 1 cm. If this value is 1-3 cm, then the gap will first have to be filled with polyurethane foam.

Attention! For these purposes, it is better to use the so-called sanitary sealant. Colonies of microorganisms (mold and fungi) will not form on it.

It should be noted that the sealant is very sensitive to unclean surfaces and does not adhere well to them. Therefore, before applying it, the surface of the tile and bathtub must be cleaned. detergent, and then degrease with solvent or alcohol. At the same time, so that the sealant itself does not leave ceramic surfaces If you have a mark that cannot be removed by anything, it is recommended to stick adhesive tape onto the joint, the middle of which must be cut along the joint. And this is where the sealing material should be directed. After which the tape is removed, and the joint surface is smoothed with a brush dipped in a soap solution. A tiled joint sealed in this way is reliable in terms of complete tightness.

Troubles such as the formation of gaps between floor slabs on the ceiling, or simply the appearance of seams that were once not entirely successfully sealed, are very often encountered in panel high-rise buildings. Therefore, at the first signs of such phenomena, measures must be taken. And for this you need to have information on how to seal the seams between the panels on the ceiling yourself, without resorting to calling specialist finishers.

If the apartment is located on the last, top floor, and there is a gap in the ceiling between the slabs, then it is possible that it will soon begin to drip from it, which means that a persistent smell of dampness and stains of mold or mildew may appear in the rooms, and in addition , the heat will quickly leave the room. These circumstances are especially unpleasant during the cold months of the year. Therefore, in such a case, repairs must begin with an inspection of the roof, since if the defects are not dealt with roofing, then sealing the cracks from the inside and leveling the ceiling is wasted work.

If an inspection of the roof suggests that everything is in order with the roof, then you can safely begin repairing the ceiling. In the case when it is discovered that the waterproofing roofing material is damaged, then first you need to take steps its repair, for example, replacing sheets of roofing felt, which are usually used to cover the roof in multi-storey buildings with a flat “soft” roof.

However, seams can crack not only on upper floors, but also on any others. This is a common consequence home shrinkage processes.

So, having made sure that no external factors won't spoil it T labor-intensive work of sealing the seams of the ceiling, you can begin repair work inside the apartment.

Seal the seam on the ceiling

If a small crack has formed between the plates, then you should start by widening it. It often happens that the process of cutting even a small crack or crevice suddenly opens up “large horizons” of work. Therefore, once we get around to this repair event, it needs to be done immediately conscientiously, in full, so as not to return to this issue for a long time.

If you want to solve two issues at once - sealing the seam and leveling the ceiling, you need to clean the entire seam from old concrete. Usually, this is not difficult to do, since when building houses, they use not very strong material for sealing joints. cement mortar.

Materials and tools

In order not to repeat the mistakes of the craftsmen who, when building a house, worked on the seams of the ceilings without due diligence, you need to purchase quality materials and all the tools necessary for work. You have to not just cover it up, but carefully open the seam and carefully seal it when sealing.

So, starting work you need to purchase:

1. The tools you will need are a medium, wide and narrow spatula, a spray bottle, a narrow metal brush, a wide brush, a container for mixing the solution, construction knife and a drill with a hammer drill.

2. You can seal cracks using different materials, and it’s worth listing everything that might be useful.

• Primer for concrete deep penetration— necessary for better adhesion of the surface and the material that will be used to seal the joint between the plates.

• NC, which is designed for sealing deep seams. This material tends to expand when hardening, tightly filling the entire space of seams and joints.

Cement "NTs" - perfect for sealing joints

• If you find a wide seam that requires sealing, you need to purchase dense insulation materials made from polyurethane or polyethylene foam. Polyurethane foam can be used instead.
• You will need latex elastic putty.
• Reinforcing is required. Its width will depend on the width of the seam - the tape should extend beyond its borders by 40 ÷ 50 mm on both sides.
• For final finishing Primary and finishing putty will be required for the entire ceiling area.

Prices for mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

Mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

How to seal the seams between panels on the ceiling - we do it ourselves

Repairing the seams between the floor slabs will necessarily entail putting the entire ceiling in order, so it’s worth starting by completely clearing the surface of paint, whitewash and, possibly, plaster.

• Using a spray bottle, the ceiling is sprayed with water. It is better to spray not the entire ceiling at once, but in parts. The well-moistened area is left for 10 ÷ 15 minutes to soak, and then the old coating is removed using wide and medium spatulas. After this, you can move on to the next section, where you need to carry out the entire procedure all over again. Such work is carried out until the entire surface of the ceiling is completely cleaned.
• Having removed all the old covering, the owner will immediately see the scope of the upcoming work. Usually there are two or three joints of floor slabs per room. Sometimes they are sealed very sloppily and appear as ugly humps. These bulges need to be eliminated and the ceiling made perfectly flat.

To do this, you need to take a hammer drill, install the desired attachment on it, switch to impact mode without rotation, and step by step free the joint from the old frozen mortar.

The joint and the slab around it must be completely cleaned, and the gap itself must be recessed by at least 50 mm.

• Next, you need to take a narrow iron brush or a wide brush and thoroughly clean the gap from dust and small pieces of concrete.

• The next step is to treat the crack with a primer in several layers, each of which must dry. The primer will strengthen the frozen solution remaining inside the joint, will not allow dampness and fungus to form in it, and will ensure good contact with the repair crew, which will be applied later.
• If the gap between the joints is wide enough and amounts to more than 30 ÷ 35 mm, then you first need to fill it with polyurethane foam. It will adhere well to the primed surface and, expanding, will fill the entire opening.

As the foam hardens, it will come out of the seam, and when it is completely dry, it is carefully cut off so that at the junction of the slabs in the foam there is a groove, 30 ÷ 50 mm deep, tapering inward, like a triangle.

• If, during cleaning, a joint is found to be deep, but at the same time narrow, then you should proceed as follows.

Having selected a foamed polyethylene seal of the required thickness, apply it On the one side apply a strip of sealant and tuck it into the cleaned and primed joint using a spatula, leaving space to fill with concrete.

• Next, the joint is sealed with a solution of expanding concrete, but it is necessary to leave a small depression in the joint for the expansion of the solution and decorative plaster.

Sealing the seam concrete mortar"NC"

• After the solution has dried or prepared a groove in the dried polyurethane foam, an elastic latex-based material is applied to the joint. It is better to carry out the work using two spatulas - wide and medium or narrow. Use a wide spatula to scoop up the solution from a container, and use a narrow spatula to apply it to the joint between the plates, compacting it into the seam and leveling it to the level of the ceiling surface, while simultaneously removing excess putty.

• After 2 hours, which will be required for drying, they begin to reinforce the seams. To do this, apply a thin layer of putty to the seam and the ceiling next to it in a strip of 50 ÷ 60 mm with a spatula, attach a sickle mesh to it, pressing it into the solution and removing its excess with a spatula.

• After the seams have dried, the entire ceiling is treated with a primer, applying it using a roller. It is better to cover the surface with two layers of the composition.
• When the ceiling is dry, you can start painting it. First, a thin layer of primary plaster is applied, and after it dries, a finishing smooth layer is applied. It is applied with a wide spatula and at the same time leveled to perfection.

Finishing- puttying the ceiling

• After the finishing layer has dried, you can apply paint, whitewash or wallpaper to the ceiling.

Video: repairing seams between floor slabs

Seal a hole in the ceiling

Sometimes it happens that when cleaning a seam from old mortar, not just a narrow gap opens, but a large hole - a defect in the floor slab. In this case, this hole can be sealed in two ways.

Sometimes such a “surprise” may appear on the ceiling when cutting seams.

In any case, the first thing to do is to thoroughly clean inner part the resulting hole. This process is best done with a narrow brush.

1. Having freed the inside of the hole from dirt, it needs to be well sprayed with primer. After waiting for the first layer to dry, you need to apply the second.

• Next, the hole is filled with foam.
• Then, after it dries and expands, the excess is cut off, and a cone is cut from inside the hole, at the base the size of the hole and 40 ÷ 50 mm high.
• This cutout is necessary to secure the cement mortar in it, which is applied in the next step. It is leveled with a spatula and left until completely dry.
• Then putty is applied to the place where there was a hole and around it 50-70 mm, and a sickle mesh is glued onto it, which is pressed into the applied layer of mortar, smoothed out and left to dry.
• Further work proceeds in the same way as when sealing seams.

2. Another method of sealing differs from the first, and it is used if a large void is found in the ceiling.

• In this case, you will need a piece of plywood (you can use laminate scraps) approximately 100 mm larger than the dimensions of the hole.
• Then, it is necessary to strengthen a wire grid in the hole, which must be secured to the sealant or cement mortar inside the hole. After the solution has dried, the wire must be securely fastened inside the opening. The grid will serve as a reinforcement for the repair mortar, with which they will create a unique stove.

Sealing a volumetric hole in ceiling- approximate diagram

• The mixed concrete is laid out on the prepared plywood; it should be uniform and not overly thick.
• The plywood platform with the solution is lifted and pressed tightly against the hole so that the solution completely fills the remaining cavity. You will have to come up with a reliable support for this kind of formwork that will hold it until the repair composition dries completely. A thick branch, a block or a pyramid of a table and chairs is suitable for this.
• After the solution dries in the opening, you will get a perfectly flat ceiling surface.
• Next, you can begin work on tidying up the entire surface of the ceiling.

Video: sealing a volumetric hole in a floor slab

It should be noted that it is quite possible to update the joint between the plates yourself. But the complete one is quite a complex job, so it is better to entrust it to an experienced finishing craftsman. However, if you have the desire and confidence in your abilities, this is a completely doable task.