Making a lamp for an aquarium with your own hands. How to choose and install lamps for an aquarium with your own hands How to convert the lights in an aquarium to energy-saving ones
Here I will try to explain in a nutshell how to make a more or less decent lamp for your aquarium.
So:
The lamp must first of all be full-size, i.e. covering all top part aquarium This is necessary in order to:
- Water did not evaporate from the aquarium so quickly
- No foreign debris was allowed into the aquarium
- Particularly frisky fish did not jump out of the aquarium
- Excess light did not hit the eyes, but was scattered only throughout the aquarium
In the absence of certain means, materials, skill or patience, you can finally be content with just a lamp enclosed in a reflector. But this, you see, is vulgar and primitive, at the level of the early 80s. And now it’s the third millennium! The fish will not forgive you for such mockery of them. So, you have to stock up on courage and patience in order to amaze the world and please the inhabitants of the aquarium with more or less decent lighting.
So, I believe that it is best to make an aquarium lamp from plastic, although this is not an axiom. It’s just that, in my opinion, plastic has a number of advantages over wood and metal (I hope no one is going to make a lamp out of cardboard?), namely:
- does not swell from moisture
- does not rot
- does not rust
- has higher electrical safety
- easier to clean from dirt and deposits of various salts and minerals
- finally, easier to process
I think I’ve persuaded you, and you won’t even think about making a lamp from anything other than plastic.
Which plastic should you choose? “Impact-resistant polystyrene” is best suited. It is easy to process, easy to glue, does not show through, is relatively inexpensive... and in general good plastic! It is usually available in sheets of various thicknesses and comes in two colors: black and white. To have at least some idea of what kind of plastic this is, open the refrigerator: the entire interior plastic sheathing- polystyrene. It is glued with organic solvent adhesives such as dichloroethane, chloroform, chloromethane. In fact, even acetone will do, but it evaporates too quickly. These chemicals can basically be found in stores or on the market. It is more convenient to work with them by inserting them into a disposable syringe with a needle, because... All these adhesives are quite liquid and do not require mixing with polystyrene crumbs, as is usually done when working with plexiglass. The fact is that plexiglass dissolves much longer than polystyrene, and the listed adhesives are very volatile, i.e. evaporate quickly. Therefore, to give greater survivability to outdoors, adhesives are mixed with plexiglass crumbs, which makes them thicker and therefore prolongs the evaporation process.
When working with polystyrene there is no such need, because polystyrene dissolves very easily. The only caveat: All of the above adhesives are extremely toxic!
By and large, we can say directly: it's poison
. Therefore, all work on gluing polystyrene must be carried out under conditions of good ventilation of the room and avoid getting glue on the skin, and even more so in the eyes, under the skin, in the mouth, nose, etc., because this can simply lead to death. For example, 10 ml of dichloroethane taken orally causes inevitable and painful death.
Scared?
Unfortunately, this is true.
Okay, let's talk about something more pleasant. Actually, you can come up with the design of the lamp yourself or make an analogue of something you’ve already seen somewhere. Let me just say that the “all-removable” lamp is not very convenient. It is much better to create a structure consisting of a perimeter frame and several removable covers. For example, such a lamp looks something like this:
For greater strength, the perimeter frame should be made two-layer, i.e. consisting of an internal supporting frame and an external decorative one. In this case, the outer layer should protrude above the inner one slightly upward (to have a “bridgehead” for placing the covers) and downward, so that the protruding part overlaps the stiffening ribs and the water surface. In short, in cross-section such a frame might look, for example, like this:
You can borrow this type from foreign manufacturers -"Eheim","Juwel", and among domestic ones, such as LLC "Arg" .
In general, any design can be invented. Here are some of them:
By clicking on any of them with the cursor, you can view the photo more large size and read about the design of this type.
If you don’t want to spend all your time repairing it and improving your health after an electric shock, it’s better to take all electrical equipment outside the lamp (well, you can leave the lamps inside too!). As a last resort, if there are any serious obstacles to this, you can place the filling inside, but think in advance about reliable insulation from water, including condensation.
A few words about this very filling:
There are many tips, opinions and recommendations regarding choosing the type of lighting for an aquarium. These include fluorescent lamps, incandescent lamps, energy-saving lamps, and even halogens... But most opinions boil down to the fact that even if mixed lighting is used, fluorescent lamps should predominate. That is, this type of lamp is the most preferable. Moreover, the market is flooded with such lamps with different light spectrums, allowing you to choose the most suitable type of lighting for each specific underwater landscape, taking into account the characteristics of the selection of fish and plants. And to start and maintain the operation of fluorescent lamps, a simple but rather cumbersome electrical system is required. There is, however, a more compact, so-called “chokeless” lamp connection scheme, but it also takes up some space. Moreover, as a rule, such throttleless ballasts are not very reliable in operation. This is all you need to place somewhere, preferably away from water.
To avoid possible troubles, or worse, the ends of the lamps should be equipped with sealed tips that protect the lamp contacts from contact with moisture. I have no idea how you organize this. I can tell you that for some lamps, various boots, cuffs and other automotive rubber items, which you will find in abundance not only at the car market, but also in any auto parts store, may be quite suitable. However, there are also special “Starting and regulating devices” with wires that already have sealed tips for lamps. This is what these devices look like:
All this tripe just costs a little money. And since you have decided to do everything yourself, then why waste time on trifles?
Another small but useful tip:
If you managed to get hold of black polystyrene, you can stick it on inner surface cover with reflective (mirror) film to increase light output. If the plastic is white, then don’t bother: the reflective ability of this plastic is quite high. Additional reflectors can only make things worse - there will be too much light in the aquarium. However, these are already questions of lighting selection...
Relatively decorative finishing I won’t go into too much detail about the lamp - the taste, color... you know. I just want to say that the German-made self-adhesive decorative film “d-c-fix” has proven itself quite well. For those living in St. Petersburg, a hint: in our city, the chain of stores “Dom-Laverna” and “Maxidom” has expanded the trade of these products more widely than anyone else.
Another very important point:
If the edges of the lamp protrude even a millimeter beyond the dimensions of the aquarium (which is inevitable in most cases), it is necessary to seal the junction of the lamp and the aquarium. For example, glue a lamp using the same silicone sealant. This will save you from constantly wiping up drops of condensation flowing from the lamp covers.
No entries found.
Today there are many options for making aquarium lighting with your own hands. There are no problems when connecting light bulbs; it is much more difficult to select the correct power and type of lamps, as well as to choose suitable place placement of light sources. Further, for readers of the site, it will be provided detailed instructions on how to make your own lighting in a home aquarium.
What difficulties may arise?
In fact, there are not many factors that can affect the lighting in an aquarium. Among the most important are:
- Over time, any light bulbs lose their light output, so you need to replace them on time. For example, LEDs degrade over time, so after 3-5 years it is advisable to replace them. At the same time, the luminous flux decreases after six months of operation.
- As light passes through water, it is scattered and absorbed by plants on its way to the bottom. For example, at the bottom of a 50-centimeter aquarium, the intensity of the light flux will decrease by more than 4 times. The situation is the same with protective glass, which can be installed on lamps - when passing through the glass, the lighting loses its intensity.
- and metal halide light sources emit a large amount of heat, which in turn negatively affects flora and fauna. If you decide to choose powerful light bulbs to illuminate a deep aquarium, be sure to consider a heat removal system.
- It is impossible to recommend with 100% accuracy the power and color spectrum that is suitable for your individual conditions. Each type of plant and fish requires its own specific characteristics of light sources, so below we will provide only general tips on how to properly make lighting in an aquarium with your own hands.
As you can see, there are difficulties when organizing lighting, but all of them can be avoided if you select the lamps according to their characteristics correctly. We will talk about this further.
Lamp selection technology
To light an aquarium at home, you must first select the right light bulbs based on power, type and luminous flux. Let's consider the features of each of the characteristics of household lamps.
By type
The first thing you must choose is the type of light source. Today, fluorescent, metal halide and luminescent lamps are used for aquarium lighting. Incandescent light bulbs and halogen products are already a thing of the past, because... They get very hot, have a short service life and also have low efficiency. Let's look at the most popular devices:
LED aquarium lighting is the most modern and is used in lately more often. A few more advantages of such products are that they do not heat up too much, can operate on a safe voltage (12 Volts) and also have high strength properties (the housing is difficult to break).
You can learn a lot of useful things in this video:
Video review for beginners
By power
Today there is a wide range of household lamps, ranging in power from 5 watts to hundreds. To correctly select this technical characteristic, rely on the following recommendations (in relation to the most popular - energy-saving lamps):
- for moderate lighting of an aquarium, it is enough to calculate 0.2 - 0.3 Watts per liter;
- to make bright illumination, the power should be 0.5 - 0.8 W/l;
- if there are a lot of plants and fish in the container, it is better to calculate the power from 0.8 to 1 W/liter.
This calculation is generally accepted, but you should not rely on it alone. It is better to take into account more important characteristic– light output.
By light output
It is best to calculate aquarium lighting based on light output. For standard height capacity (50 cm), you need to calculate the luminous flux of approximately 30-50 lumens per liter. In total, for the most popular aquarium volumes, choose the following total light output depending on the dimensions:
- 25 l: from 750 to 1500 lm;
- 60 l: from 1800 to 3000 lm;
- 70 l: from 2100 to 3500 lm;
- 100 l: from 3000 to 5000 lm;
- 120 l: from 3600 to 6000 lm;
- 140 l: from 4200 to 7000 lm;
- 200 l: from 6000 to 10000 lm;
- 300 l: from 9000 to 15000 lm.
As you understand, to illuminate a large deep aquarium you will need to select powerful lamps with high luminous efficiency. In this regard, housekeepers are, of course, in an advantageous position, because consume less electricity while emitting the same luminous flux as alternative options, as can be seen from the table: 
You also need to correctly select light bulbs according to the color spectrum. There is a theory that for flora it is best to buy light sources that emit yellow and red colors so that the plants grow well. However, this point is quite controversial and most experts recommend installing several different lamps at the same time. From the design side, the backlight can be affected as follows: 
How does the color spectrum affect lighting?
Choosing a location for installing lamps
When you decide on required power and the type of lamps, you will need to correctly create a diagram on which the installation locations of all lamps will be marked. Here it’s up to you how to place them inside the container: in front under the lid or make side lighting aquarium, fixing the lamps on the sides of the lid. It is also recommended to install colored lamps in front to organize the flow of light on plants and fish. 
Above an open aquarium, you can hang a fluorescent lamp from above, which will brightly illuminate all the flora and fauna under water. If the aquarium is without plants, you can create an original colored backlight, as shown in the photo. Single color diode strip is also often used, but its brightness may not be enough for high-quality lighting of a large capacity. Such lighting fixtures it is best to mount around the perimeter for additional decorative lighting water. 
Correct connection of homemade lighting
Well, now we’ve moved on to the most important question of the article - how to make aquarium lighting with your own hands. Let's consider simple instructions for connecting a homemade LED strip that will create illumination underwater.
First of all, we prepare everything necessary materials. In our case, this is an LED strip of 12 diodes, a plastic bulb suitable length, power supply 220/12 Volt, soldering iron, silicone and awl. Since our power supply has a male connector, you need to additionally buy a 12-volt female power connector to connect the tape itself. In addition, a piece of foam rubber and a two-core wire for connecting the tape will be useful. Having collected all the materials, let's get down to business. 
Using an awl, punch a small hole in the cover in order to pull the wire through, as shown in the photo. 
You need to solder a wire to the tape, which on the other side will be connected to the “mother” with clamp screws. 
When you do this, you need to glue pieces of foam rubber on the back of the LED strip in three places so that the material does not dangle in the bulb. In our case, sound insulation from the car was used, because... There was no foam rubber at hand. 
Next, the homemade product needs to be placed in a flask and all joints must be carefully sealed with sealant to prevent water from getting inside. The advantage of such a flask is that if it is necessary to repair the lighting in the aquarium (in particular the tape itself), you can easily remove it from the water, unscrew it and replace it. We provided another idea in a separate article. 
Finally, the tape is connected to the network and tested for functionality. As you can see, making LED lighting in an aquarium with your own hands is not so difficult, the main thing is to want it! 
We recommend connecting the lamp not directly to the outlet, but through a timer socket. In this case, you can program specific times for the lamps to turn on and off so that they do not work in bright natural light. Generally, plants should have between 11 and 14 hours of daylight per day, so you will need to do some timing calculations and set the set point on the outlet. This idea will make the aquarium lighting automatic. Another important point - do not buy Chinese LEDs, because... they fail faster during operation.
About the benefits of photosynthesis.
Light energy plays a key role in the life of the underwater world. It promotes the reproduction of inhabitants and the development of plants. Without sufficient radiation, they do not grow their own kind. Green algae turn pale and degrade.
However, the appearance of oxygen bubbles on plants confirms the rapid progress of photosynthesis and life extension. It intensifies with increasing intensity of light energy. The reaction occurs in layers of green plant cells. The chlorophyll present absorbs (collects) photons of blue and red light, and reflects other tones. With different radiation frequencies and wavelengths, measured in nanometers (n/m). Therefore, if this area occupies the range from 600 to 700 n/m, then it promotes the most intensive growth of leaves and plants.
- Red and orange rays are the main, decisive energy of photosynthesis.
- Violet and blue spectra create optimal conditions to pass it.
The concept of this process literally means: building from light and chemical elements, located in the water. Green plants convert carbon dioxide into food necessary for the inhabitants.
For an aquarium, the optimal lighting is the use of semiconductor devices - LEDs. Their radiation, close to the natural environment, has a positive effect on the development of flora and inhabitants.
How aquariums are lit.
Aquarium lighting with incandescent lamps (l/n)
Having the yellow spectrum necessary for plants. Favors the development of algae and phytoplankton. This light is not sufficient for some species, but it highlights the color of red and yellow fish well. A very bright lamp has a negative effect on the development of leafy plants. They become smaller, lose their green color, and the water blooms.
Placed above the aquarium, it heats the water, making it uncomfortable for the fish. Sometimes l/n is supplemented with a universal luminescent type LBU, with an acceptable emission spectrum. They are mounted in a box placed on top of the aquarium and with reflective foil inserted.
Aquarium lighting with fluorescent lamps.
WITH diffused light white and blue, wide spectrum, economical, durable. The ratio of half a watt of power per liter of water is enough for optimal lighting. To illuminate a container of up to 500 liters, two lamps with a reflector are enough. Lush plants (Dutch) are illuminated with a source with a warm spectrum in the range of 1200-1800 K. For bottom topography and predatory fish, cold light of about 6700 K is suitable.
- Nanometer (n/m) is a unit of wavelength of light equal to 10 -9 meters.
- Incandescent lamps (l/n).
- (K) stands for Kelvin. Unit of thermodynamic temperature.
Aquarium lighting with LED lamps (s.d.l).
This is the most progressive lighting method. Economical, do not emit heat. Their evenly scattering spectrum is suitable for aquarium plants, without causing any inconvenience to fish. Used as additional option lighting. Expanding the spectral range, it is used in combination with traditional radiation sources.
LED spotlights are suitable for aquariums without a lid. Its bright beam reaches the bottom of a reservoir of any size. It is enough to use 1-3 pcs. s/d 10 W, 10.0 thousand K. and luminous flux 450-900 lm. Or 20 W, having 1600 lm and a temperature of 6400 K.
For 100 liter, rectangular shape, choose one with a power of 50 W or 2 of 25. The spotlight does not emit heat that heats the water.
- SDL - LED lamp.
- SL - tape.
- LED is a light emitter.
- LED is understood as an emitting semiconductor device.
Aquarium lighting with LED spotlights.
LED lamps for an aquarium.
Their mounting is suitable for aquarium wall thicknesses up to 12 mm. Can be installed on any type of lid. The lamp serves as both main and additional lighting. Figure 3, 4. Water-repellent design. During short-term immersion, they do not lose their properties and parameters.
Presented in six models. For fresh environments. Power supply via 48V DC driver 1. Sufficient radiation spectrum. Three-channel independent light control with a programmable controller. Creates various visual scenarios. Changes color temperature in the range of 6.5-15.0 thousand K.
The radiating elements are arranged in a structure designed for quick installation on the side wall of the aquarium, secured with a special lock. It has two color spectrum options provided by 6 W diodes. Available in black or white casing. Energy-saving appliances are used. No maintenance required. Advantages of LED lamps. Modern design. The design uses components from well-known suppliers. Easy installation. Safe supply voltage.
- Driver is a device that provides voltage access to the consumer.
- LM - magnitude (unit) of luminous flux.
LED aquarium lighting calculation.
The first definition is approximate and amounts to half a watt of power per liter of water and a luminous flux of 40 lm. That is, a volume of 100 liters will require a total power of 50 watts. Most often, SD is used in the range from 0.2 to a maximum of 3.0. Therefore, based on the lighting power, the number of emitters is determined.
Sometimes such parameters are selected visually or on the advice of experienced aquarists: separately for living inhabitants and plants. For the latter, there is a special calculator for selecting the number of semiconductor emitters. It is designed for different heights aquariums. For shallow ones - up to 450 mm and more than this size. Enter the following data.
- Dimensions of the container.
- Type of vegetation.
- The proposed brand of LEDs indicating the thermodynamic temperature up to 8.0 thousand K.
- Current 350-700 mA.
- Illumination 139-300 lm.
- This calculator calculates the number of drivers and power supplies for 24 and 36 V.
Selecting a source based on light output.
For aquarium standard size(50 cm high) the parameters indicated in the table are suitable.
Deep-sea tanks are illuminated with more powerful devices and enhanced light output. In order to save money, it is preferable to choose with the same characteristics. Comparative figures are shown in the table below.
Pay attention to the color spectrum. There is an opinion that for development aquarium plants Sources of yellow and red light are suitable. There is another view - to simultaneously combine several different lamps, the radiation of which affects the illumination and visual impression.
SMD is a semiconductor emitting device. The abbreviation (Surface Mounted Device) stands for a product suitable for mounting on a plane. The numbers indicate the dimensions of the elements in mm.
Selecting an installation location.
The placement of lamps is preliminarily specified. Inside the aquarium, under the lid in front, on the sides or on the back. To create a shimmering effect on plants or fish, colored lamps are placed in front. The daytime one is set up above an open reservoir, brightly illuminating the flora and fauna. Monochrome with dl is attached around the perimeter. And if the brightness is insufficient, its length is increased. It additionally illuminates the water. For an aquarium without vegetation, original color lighting is used with RGB tape.
Why choose LED
This modern version aquarium devices. LEDs take precedence among lighting devices due to their economical energy consumption (about 70%) as well as their technical characteristics.
- The spectral range of illumination and illumination is favorable for the existence of underwater inhabitants and flora.
- The quality, color range, and lighting characteristics are stable throughout the entire period of use, more than four years. A sign of diode degradation is a drop in luminous flux.
- It goes to any part of the aquarium. The light intensity is gradually adjusted to increase or decrease.
- The low voltage used is safe when operating the devices. Works stably even with power supply fluctuations.
- No periodic replacement of parts is required.
- During operation, they do not emit excess heat that negatively affects temperature regime aquarium Therefore, less demands are placed on the cooling system.
- LEDs are an environmentally friendly device. The composition does not contain substances harmful to health, ultraviolet and infrared radiation.
- Resistant to mechanical stress.
RGB - capital letters mean many colors of light. Read, Green, Blue.
DIY LED aquarium lighting.
Observe safety precautions when working with electricity near a container of water: turn off the mains voltage, and do not allow water to get on the uncovered parts of the lamp.
Lighting of a 40 liter pond.
To manufacture the device you must have the following.
LED placement.
A cover of the appropriate size for mounting 16 one-watt LEDs in it. Including white tone 10 pcs., 4 red and 2 blue. This range of color selection ensures optimal plant growth. White diodes with a glow temperature of 6500 K and a flux of 100 lm. The driver (power supply) is sufficient for 1-watt LEDs in the amount of 12-18 pcs.
Into the cover with inside mount aluminum plates, serving as radiators. They are attached super glue. Additionally, they are placed on substrates 1 (stars), which also play the role of a heat sink. Figure 1. Diodes are attached with thermal paste. The radiator area is quite sufficient to cool 16 elements. Having drilled the holes, then fasten the SD with screws.
White LEDs are located on the outer rows. Middle: red and blue. All elements are connected in a sequential circuit - “plus” to “minus”. The output is connected to the driver, on the other side of the cover. First, they check the quality of the installation of the diodes by the glow inside, and then make sure after installing it on the aquarium.
For a volume of 200 liters
Use SD 40 pcs. power 3 W. Sometimes the brightness of light is determined by the following ratio: one second watt per liter of water. However, with increasing depth these figures double. LED lighting in the lower layers should ensure photosynthesis of plants and the release of the required amount of oxygen.
Sometimes they arrange lunar night illumination by connecting a small section of blue LED. It is placed at the level of the bottom of the reservoir from the back wall of the aquarium. The timer turns it on at the set time.
Necessary materials, tools.
- LED lamps 40 pcs.
- Connectors (sockets) 40 pcs.
- The wire is copper.
- Plastic profile (gutter) 2.5 m wide 10 cm.
- Current source (12 volts).
- Tool, milling cutter 48 mm for machining holes.
- The substrate is a flexible plate with elements.
- Timer is a device for temporary switching of an electrical circuit.
- Cooler - cooling unit.
Device manufacturing technology.
Prepare two pieces of profile along the length of the aquarium. 20 holes are drilled in a meter-long bottom in a checkerboard pattern. The diodes are inserted and secured. Each is connected in parallel to b p 1. The cooler (fan) is mounted in places of increased heating of the lid or abundant evaporation.
LED lighting in the aquarium.
To manufacture the device, standard components, materials, and tools are required. Tape with 12 elements. 12 volt current source. The connection connector is made of a two-wire 1.5 mm copper wire. The plastic flask (vessel) is taken the length of the installation site. Drill, soldering iron. Silicone and related materials.
Step-by-step technology. To pass the wire through, holes are drilled in the cover.
On the back side of the board, pieces of foam rubber are glued in three places, avoiding its sagging. Solder the wires to the current-carrying tracks. Place the tape in the flask, close the lids and seal the joints with sealant. Seal the hole properly, avoiding water getting inside. After connecting the connector, check the device by connecting it to the power supply. The finished backlight is connected through a timer socket, having programmed the switching. It is taken into account that the device must operate for 11-14 hours. Figure 2.
1.B.P. - abbreviated power supply unit.
LED strip for aquarium use in lighting.
Using LED strip lighting.
Below are step-by-step instructions for setting up optimal aquarium lighting.
- Set of tools.
- A lid (box) for placing parts and finished units.
- Protective glass that protects them from moisture.
- LED strip type 3528 with 60 elements per meter. B p 12 volts.
- Soldering iron
- related materials
- copper wire.
Manufacturing technology.
Four segments are cut along the length of the lid, according to the markings on the tape. Each 5 cm module contains 3 pieces. LEDs.
The ends are cleaned, exposing two current-carrying paths from the silicone film. One of them is positive, the second is negative. This operation is performed with all four segments. Seven ends are prepared for soldering, except for the eighth, which is not used in the diagram.
First, connect two segments into one tape, observing the “+” and “-” indications. Check operation by connecting to a power supply that has the same polarity symbols. And also perform with two other segments.
The connecting wires are measured in length in advance, avoiding sagging when installing the cover. Having soldered, the four segments are checked by connecting to the b/p. Control wire connections. All contacts are protected with insulating sealant. The prepared tape circuit is ready for installation.
It is degreased with acetone, alcohol, and solvent. Then, with the adhesive part of the CD, all four strips are pressed.
Rubber stops are fixed at the corners of the cover, adding rigidity to the structure. They hold the protective glass, which has been previously wiped.
Having installed it on rubber stops, all joints around the perimeter are filled with sealant.
To avoid contact with the body of the aquarium, the same pieces are glued to the protective glass of the lid, serving as a stop.
The finished device is checked by connecting to the power supply.
Finished products for homemade projects.
Diodes with the required parameters are selected from the existing assortment in light or aquarium stores. RGB tapes, different power LEDs, as well as STAR circuit boards (stars). Matrices 10-100 watt. Lenses, aluminum boards, radiators of different sizes, current sources for 300-4500 mA, dimmer 2 starting from 350 mA, impenetrable and open LEDs, RGB controllers 3. Soft wires 1.5 mm. Fans for a personal computer for 12 V. Sockets and connectors for mounting lamps. Necessary components produced by popular manufacturers of LED products: Aquael, Hagen, Juwel, Aqua medic, Dennerie, Sera.
- Adapter is a connecting device.
- Dimmer - electronic design, expanding the functionality of LED lamps.
- RGB controller - a device for controlling the radiation mode and adjusting the light.
LED spotlights in the aquarium with remote control.
LED lighting with aerator
For an aquarium with a capacity of 115 l. A lamp with waterproof diodes is used, which operate reliably and stably when submerged. The kit includes a remote control with colored buttons and clear, intuitive controls. These are: “Start”, “Stop”. Light adjustment: “more”, “less”. Lighting options and color choice. For example, by turning on the normal mode of one shade step by step, adjust from the minimum level to the maximum. Evaluated depending on visual perception. And so on, throughout the entire range contained in the control panel program. In addition, there are four other adjustment options: flickering in all colors, switching to a smooth flow into any color, or making a magnificent night light out of an aquarium.
The delivery set includes a lamp with 12 diodes, attached to the bottom with two suction cups. It has a hole for air hoses. Adapter, infrared receiver, control panel connected via USB connector.
Light is necessary for the active development of aquarium plants, which in turn produce oxygen for the normal functioning of fish. Right organized lighting not only maintains the balance of the local ecosystem, but also emphasizes the beauty of its inhabitants and decorates a modern interior.
An illuminated aquarium is an expensive pleasure that not everyone can afford. However, there are many ways to create LED lighting in an aquarium with your own hands. Even a beginner can cope with this task after studying the instructions. For this purpose, you can use different types of lamps, but LEDs are considered the most profitable. In order for the idea to be a success, and for plants and fish to develop, you need to choose the right light sources, taking into account their power, luminous flux and the size of the aquarium.
Aquarists know that an aquatic ecological system is based on the interconnection of plants, microorganisms and other inhabitants. Aquarium fish are the final link in this system, which also need proper lighting for favorable living conditions.
But the most important thing is light for aquatic plants. Proper lighting will accelerate their growth and development. With the help of light that algae absorb, carbon dioxide and water are converted into oxygen and nutrients. This process is called photosynthesis. Thus, oxygen appears in the water, which is necessary for fish.
If there is little light, then the plants degrade, the process of their reproduction stops and they gradually die. This negatively affects the condition of fish, shellfish, and crustaceans.
Spectral composition of radiation different types light sources are different. For this reason, lamps of different types (LED, fluorescent, halogen) are sometimes used to illuminate indoor ponds.
Important! in winter artificial lighting necessary to extend daylight hours for aquarium inhabitants. The backlight should be turned on for a maximum of 12 hours; aquatic inhabitants should rest for 6 to 8 hours. The duration of lamp switching on in summer is about 10 hours.
If the lighting is correct, then the algae have a saturated green with yellowish, purple and brownish stains. The fish are active, and their scales are shiny.
Sometimes the balance of the ecosystem is disturbed, this may be due to the purity of the water and the quality of the lighting. Then the liquid becomes cloudy with a greenish tint, which has a bad effect on the condition of aquatic inhabitants.
If there is a lot of light, then there is excessive growth of filamentous algae. To stop the too active development of plants, you need to slightly reduce the brightness of the backlight.
ABOUT high-quality lighting you can say if 2 months after you installed the lamps, the aquatic inhabitants feel well.
Often, for decorative purposes, aquarium lamps are supplemented with bulbs with green or blue light. This is certainly beautiful, but such lighting disrupts the process of photosynthesis and has a depressing effect on fish. Therefore, it is better not to experiment.
Why is it better to light with LEDs: choosing the appropriate type of light source
Sometimes used for plants and fish in aquariums different sources light, since many of them are quite whimsical. Some aquarium owners use LED lamps when creating lighting, others use devices with incandescent filaments, and still others use high-quality halogen and fluorescent devices.
Suitable lamps must emit light over a wide spectral range so that plants develop, but do not bloom. For example, conventional tungsten light sources have a narrow spectrum, dominated by yellow rays. Such lighting causes plants to wilt and water pollution.
High-quality lamps should not heat water. If the temperature rises by at least 2°, the condition of the fish worsens.
As a rule, the following types of lamps are used for lighting aquariums:
- Incandescent light bulbs were previously used most often. However, the yellow light that the device emits causes plants to wilt. In addition, the light source heats the water. Nowadays, combined lighting from fluorescent and incandescent lamps is more popular.
- Halogen samples consume little electricity, emit bright light, and do not heat up as much as conventional lamps. However, they contain mercury, so they are dangerous to aquatic life if they break.
- Luminescent devices are still popular among specialists in creating ecosystems in aquariums. They are energy efficient, have a wide spectrum of radiation, and produce diffused light. Two such lamps are enough to illuminate a large aquarium (from 300 l). However, their flask contains mercury vapor.
- LED lamps are ideal option for aquatic life. They consume a minimal amount of electricity, but at the same time emit a bright light flux and do not heat the water and glass of the aquarium. Their radiation spectrum is wide and contains no toxic substances.
Read also Features of lighting an aquarium and herbalist with LED spotlights and lamps: how to choose, secure, do it yourself
LED strip lighting is a less preferable option. It is usually used in combination with other light sources as it has low luminous efficiency.
Pros and cons of LED backlighting
After the appearance of LED lamps on the lighting market, they took a leading position among aquarists. Their popularity is explained by the characteristics that distinguish them from other types of lamps.
Advantages of LED light sources:
- Energy efficiency. LEDs consume little electricity, but still emit bright light.
- High efficiency and low heat dissipation. LED bulbs practically do not heat up even after 10 hours of operation. Therefore, an additional cooling system is not needed.
- Strength. LED crystals are resistant to vibrations and fluctuations, which cannot be said about light bulbs with thin spirals.
- Long service life. Diode light sources can last about 5 years if used correctly.
- Wide spectral range. Diode bulbs have a richer emission spectrum and high luminous efficiency than other types of light sources. In one lighting device you can install crystals of different colors to create favorable conditions for plants and fish.
- Safety. These light sources are maximally protected from moisture and fireproof.
- Environmental friendliness. LED lamps do not contain toxic substances and do not emit ultraviolet rays. Therefore, they are safer for aquatic life.
The disadvantages of LED crystals include their high cost and the need for installation additional equipment(power supply, dimmer). However, the extra expenses will quickly pay off due to energy savings.
As you can see, LED lighting has more pros than cons. That is why such light sources are very popular.
Correct backlight calculation: power, spectral range
If you decide to do led lamp for an aquarium with your own hands, you need to correctly calculate the power of the LED crystals. After all, the life of aquatic inhabitants depends on this characteristic.
According to the standard, the total backlight power should be in the range of 1 - 2 W. However, the volume of the aquarium in liters can reach from 20 to 2000. Light the indoor pond large size a diode lamp with such power will be heavier.
As a rule, 0.2 W crystals are used to organize an aquarium lighting system. To determine the number of lamps, you can use complex formulas or online calculators. But in practice, for a 200 liter tank you need a strip with 30 crystals or from 25 to 45 light bulbs (the power of each element is about 3 W).
Many aquarists use the formula - 0.5W/1l. However, it is also not entirely accurate. If the aquarium is high, then the light simply will not reach the bottom, this can be seen even visually.
Attention! According to many experts, the illumination of the aquarium should be uniform so that the light reaches the very bottom. However, sometimes such illumination negatively affects bottom-dwelling fish and snails. If necessary, the fish will swim closer to the light, and then they will have the opportunity to hide in the shade. But the algae are still drawn to the light. Therefore, you should not always achieve perfectly uniform lighting.
The life activity of aquatic inhabitants also depends on the spectrum and color temperature. Beginning aquarists often use yellow, blue, and green light bulbs to illuminate the tank. It looks impressive, but the inhabitants of the aquarium suffer, and the photosynthesis of algae is disrupted.
Experienced aquarists advise buying light bulbs whose spectrum is dominated by blue-violet or red-orange rays.
Where to install lighting fixtures
The lighting for the aquarium should match the interior design. It can be built into a closet, sideboard or bookcase. The best option– installation of the lamp from the front and from above, that is, closer to the front wall. It is advisable that the aquarium has a lid that can be opened to feed the fish.
An indoor pond (or several) can be placed on a shelf, and the lamps can be placed in front. A massive bedside table with an aquarium, which is equipped with a backlit lid made of the same material, will fit perfectly into the interior.
If you decide to install lights in a cabinet above a tank sea creatures, then for a while installation work it must be covered with a glass or plywood lid to prevent debris from getting into the water.
To increase the efficiency of lighting equipment, it can be supplemented with a thermal relay, photo relay, or timer. The first device turns off the system when light sources or water heat up, the second turns the light on in the evening and turns it off during daylight hours, and the third turns off the light after a specified time. This is very convenient for busy people.
How to make your own LED lighting
Making LED aquarium lighting with your own hands is not that difficult. The main thing is to follow proven instructions.
In any aquarium, proper lighting is necessary for the comfortable maintenance of plants and living inhabitants. With enough light, the fish look most attractive, and for aquarium flora this is a necessary condition for existence. You can arrange the right lighting in different ways. But the most optimal is lighting made by yourself. It is not difficult to install and secure the lamps, having previously calculated the power of the equipment.
- The duration of daylight hours should be almost the same throughout the year and range from 10 to 12 hours.
- The light intensity should vary throughout the day. Its maximum value should occur at noon and several hours after it. The rest of the time, moderate light is required.
- Individual LEDs with a power of 1 or 3 W. Usually the latter are used, as they are more economical.
- LED strips of good power have a high price. They are difficult to find on sale, but they are very easy to install.
- LEDs in the form of conventional incandescent lamps. They are convenient in that they can be used instead of conventional incandescent lamps operating on a 220 V network. This opportunity is provided by a converter located in the base of the LED lamp.
- Long tube-shaped ones look like fluorescent lamps, but are much smaller in size.
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How to choose technical parameters
High-quality lighting for the aquarium should be as close as possible to natural sunlight. Since almost everything aquarium fish and plants native to places with a tropical climate, it is necessary to recreate exactly the following lighting conditions in the tank:
Lighting made according to these principles will allow the flora to grow quickly and luxuriantly, and the living inhabitants to feel great and delight with their bright colors. To implement such a project, you need several lamps and a special controller that will automatically change the light intensity.
How to calculate lamp power
It is necessary to begin the arrangement with a preliminary assessment of the power of the lamps that will illuminate the home tank with optimal intensity. To do this, you need to take into account not the volume of the aquarium itself, but the amount of water in it. The air gap and the space occupied by the soil at the bottom are not taken into account. It is also necessary to consider what type of aquarium it is. It can be marine, freshwater or with plants. Another required parameter- this is a type of living inhabitants: they can be light- or shade-loving, as well as bottom-dwelling.
Taking into account all the factors, you need to calculate the approximate lighting power based on the volume of water in the aquarium:
These parameters correspond to backlight made from incandescent or halogen lamps. However, nowadays they are used very rarely due to their low efficiency and high heat during operation. Therefore, to recalculate the specified data to the power of other sources, you can use the following hint:
| Incandescent lamp, W | Fluorescent lamp, W | LED lamp, W | Luminous flux, Lm |
| 20 | 5–7 | 2–3 | 250 |
| 40 | 10–13 | 4–5 | 400 |
| 60 | 15–16 | 6–10 | 700 |
| 75 | 18–20 | 10–12 | 900 |
| 100 | 25–30 | 12–15 | 1200 |
| 150 | 40–50 | 18–20 | 1800 |
| 200 | 60–80 | 25–30 | 2500 |
Taking into account the depth of the aquarium
When passing through the water column, the brightness of the light becomes significantly less. It is believed that it loses half of this indicator every 10 cm of depth in the water column. For example, if the illumination at the surface of the water is about 2000 lux (lux), then after traveling only 50 cm, it will drop to 60 lux. Therefore, for deep aquariums it is necessary to make brighter lighting.
Taking into account the depth of the aquarium to calculate lighting
All the inhabitants of the aquarium will feel good only if they reach the very bottom optimal quantity Sveta. The minimum level of illumination in the lower part of the tank should be from 60 to 90 lm. Knowing the size of the aquarium, the water column in it and the brightness, you can calculate how much light will reach the bottom. If the resulting value is less than the required norm, it is necessary to increase it to the required parameter.
LED lighting power calculation
If the aquarium is illuminated using LEDs, the optimal solution would be to use 0.2 W lamps. In this case, the calculation LED lighting performed taking into account the volume of the tank. The result will also depend on other parameters. For example, for an aquarium with a capacity of 200 liters, it is necessary to use a strip of 30 lamps or replace it with the installation of 25-40 spot LEDs.
According to experienced aquarists, it is necessary to proceed from the rule that 0.5 W is enough for every liter of water. But here you need to take into account the depth of the aquarium and increase the brightness as needed.
To determine correct power The easiest way is to use visual selection. The entire volume of water in the aquarium should be illuminated to one degree or another. The light should be brighter near the surface. For snails and bottom fish, a smaller portion of light is enough. Other types of aquarium inhabitants can independently choose a comfortable level of lighting for themselves, raising it higher into brightly lit areas or hiding in the shadows at the bottom.
Lamp installation location
It is logical to place the lamps on top so that they shine like the sun's rays. But they can be located close to the water surface and rest on the edges of the tank, or they can be attached on a suspension at a distance of several tens of centimeters. The specific method depends on the number and type of lamps used. Moreover, if the lamps are installed far from water, then they must be more powerful to compensate for the scattering of light.
Placing the lamp with emphasis on the edge of the aquarium
Options for placing lighting on pendants may vary. You can use rods and attach them to the wall or floor, or lower the lights from the ceiling. There are options for installing hangers resting on the edges of the tank.
Lamps on pendants
To prevent light loss, it is necessary to shield the lamps by covering them on top with reflective covers. Industrial lamps are usually covered with a thin sheet of polished stainless steel. For homemade lighting Foil is used for this purpose.
Placement and number of lamps
Most often, linear lamps are used to organize lighting for home aquariums. This is convenient for installation and uniform illumination. In this case, you can use one or more lamps. A single light source is positioned so that it covers all plants. To do this, the lamp must be kept at a distance of 2/5 of its width from the rear edge of the aquarium.
You should not place the lamp in the center, since the bulk of the plants are usually located along the back wall of the tank, so the lighting there needs to be intense. If there are 2 or more lamps, the offset should still be the same. The uniform distribution of light is facilitated by the non-linear profile of the cover, which helps redirect light from the reflectors.
With the help of reflectors, the light flux is distributed evenly
If classic rather than linear lamps are used, they should be placed at equal intervals in several rows. Good decision This task will be to arrange the lamps in a checkerboard pattern. When installing several lamps, their power should be taken with some reserve.
Lighting time
When creating the backlight, you need to consider the time when it will work. In this matter, it is necessary to rely on the habits of the inhabitants and plants in the aquarium. Regardless of the time of year, daylight should last 12 hours. This mode is closest to natural conditions most aquarium inhabitants.
Some aquarists try to compensate for poor-quality lighting by lengthening the daylight hours. It doesn't bring results. Water blooms from long daylight hours, which further reduces illumination. In addition, there is a need to replace it.
In addition to the duration of lighting, you need to simulate midday in the aquarium. The light should be intense for 3-4 hours a day. At other times, its brightness must be reduced. To implement this mode, you need to use separate lamps controlled using toggle switches or controllers.
Time relays installed in a socket
Temporary relays will help make the process automated. Cheap models with electronic or mechanical control are available for sale. It is more convenient to use electronic ones with programming capabilities. They allow you to automatically adjust power supply and shutdown.
Types of lamps
Lighting for a home aquarium is made from lamps of any type. Depending on the lamps chosen, its efficiency, the amount of energy expended, the appearance and well-being of the inhabitants of the tank will differ.
Selecting suitable luminaires requires taking into account several parameters. Much depends on the spectrum they emit. But the main criterion is taking into account technical characteristics selected lighting.
Incandescent or halogen lamps
Such lamps have similar pros and cons, so they should be considered together. Their positive qualities is that the light they emit is very similar to the spectrum of sunlight. Another advantage is affordable price such lamps.
The disadvantage is their very low efficiency. Almost 97% of the energy they generate is converted into heat and only 3% is spent on producing light itself. Therefore, the use of lamps in this category will result in significant electricity bills. An additional disadvantage is the excess heat, which needs to be eliminated by installing special coolers. But even the installation of such fans is not always able to solve the problem of heat removal.
Metal halide lamps
This type of lamp is suitable for herbal aquariums or for tanks with deep water. The light from such a lamp will have a wide spectrum of radiation, high brightness and the ability to descend to a significant depth. This kind of lighting creates light reflections and shadows from vegetation and living inhabitants at the bottom of the tank.
Their main disadvantage is strong heating. Therefore, such lamps must be installed at intervals of more than 30 cm from the water surface.
Fluorescent lamps
There are several varieties of such lamps on sale. Conventional ones used in everyday life and labeled with NO have a low degree of luminescence. They can be used to illuminate tanks with a depth of up to 50 cm. Lamps marked HO and VHO with the same dimensions shine much brighter, which allows the beams to reach a significant depth.
For illumination of aquariums, lamps marked T8 and slightly less often T5 are usually used. The latter have a diameter of 16 mm and give light twice as brightly, but their price is several times higher. T8 lamps with a diameter of 26 mm emit less light, but are more affordable. The replacement period for these lamps is the same, so cheap “eights” are usually used.
There are fluorescent blue lamps on sale that are used to create a “pseudo-sea” and are turned on at night. They look very impressive, but do not give the fish a chance to rest, so it would be right to refuse such lighting.
The main disadvantage of fluorescent lamps is that they burn out after some time. After six months, their light spectrum changes, so they have to be replaced, although the lamp is still in working condition. This leads to additional significant costs.
LED
Currently, aquariums are usually illuminated using LEDs. They practically do not heat up, provide a lot of light and consume little energy. Additional benefit is a wide range of colors and a long service life. They are safe to use as they only require 12V.
Another advantage of LED lamps is that their brightness can be easily adjusted. This is very useful for beginner aquarists, since due to lack of experience it is difficult to select the illumination intensity right away.
The disadvantage of LEDs is their high cost. Such lamps also emit thermal energy, although significantly less than incandescent lamps. In this case, thermal energy is produced by the lamp body, so to remove it, it is enough to mount the lamps on an aluminum plate, which will serve as a heat sink. You can mount the cooler on the back or simply raise it above the water surface.
LED lamps come in different types:
LED spotlights
With the help of such diodes, you can organize the illumination of the tank yourself. To make it more impressive, some aquarists make it multi-colored, using blue lamps, burgundy or emerald shades of spotlights. Such an aquarium will look very unusual and fascinating.
But such colored lighting cannot be used constantly. It is unnatural for fish and plants and is not at all like ordinary sunlight. Multi-colored lighting has a depressing effect on the inhabitants of the aquarium.
Combined lighting
Experienced aquarists prefer to use two or three types of lamps to create lighting. This allows you to create an optimal light supply and minimize energy costs. LED lamps are usually combined with fluorescent or metal halogen lamps. Some people prefer to combine all of these varieties.
In reality, there are many options for creating optimal lighting. Lamps can also be selected according to light temperature. This gives the fish and plants different colors and creates different perceptions of the aquarium inhabitants. You need to choose a combination close to the spectrum of solar radiation that your pets will like.
