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Installation of wall-hung and floor-mounted toilet installations. Installation and installation of a wall-hung toilet with your own hands How to install a toilet with installation

Reading time ≈ 3 minutes

Space saving and aesthetic features are the main advantages wall hung toilet, therefore, having chosen this option, its owner certainly will not go wrong. If there are no special issues with the installation of the toilet, then its wall-hung “brother” will require sleight of hand due to the presence of an additional link in the bathroom - the installation. Installing a toilet installation with your own hands is not difficult if you have all the necessary construction tools and carry out the work step by step.

The uninterrupted functioning of the plumbing product depends on the installation sequence of the toilet installation. First of all, its installation itself is carried out, then the connection of the sewerage system, camouflage of visible elements and finishing are carried out. For clarity, below are photos and videos of installing the installation under the toilet, which will make it much easier to perceive the information.

Preparatory stage

First of all, you need to purchase an installation system along with the toilet. Unlike bidets, today there are wide choice their manufacturers. By their principle, they are all a hidden mounting frame. But here, as they say, to each his own.

The tools you will need are a hammer drill or a drill, a concrete drill with a diameter equal to the hole of the fasteners, wrenches, a building level, a pencil and a tape measure.

When all the necessary construction equipment is at hand, we begin marking and preparing the fastener system. It is important to measure the distance from the installation system to the wall surface and mark the location of the cistern. It would be correct to install it at a height of 100 cm from the floor.

Do not forget about fastening the installation itself: it is necessary to mark points for fastening elements on the surface of the wall and floor. In this case, special attention should be paid to fasteners. Using a hammer drill, holes are drilled along the previously made marks, where anchors with dowels are inserted.

Installation of wall-hung toilets

The toilet installation diagram has a clear sequence:

• a frame is installed in a pre-prepared place, which is fixed with special adjusting nuts and screws;
• the installation body is adjusted horizontally and vertically;
• The horizontal level is set by adjusting the design of the legs, and the vertical level by adjusting the anchor thread.

After installing the installation under the toilet, you need to connect the toilet to the sewer pipe. It was important to pre-install a drain pipe with a diameter of 110 mm and connect the water supply.

Regarding the water supply to the tank, experts recommend using a rigid pipe instead of a flexible pipe. Pipes from the cistern and sewer pipe are attached to fixing plastic clamps.

Finally, before installing the plumbing product, we once again check the tightness of all elements. Finally, we put on the PVC couplings, install the shock-absorbing gasket and the toilet bowl.

Conventional type toilets are gradually replacing models with a cistern hidden in a wall or partition and a hanging bowl. This solution requires hidden installation of all bathroom communications, but the gain is obvious - even small room it becomes visually more spacious and the interior more laconic.

This can be done by installing a special toilet installation load-bearing structure, which combines the bowl and tank into a single whole. Installation of such models is more difficult than “compact” ones, but detailed instructions for installing a wall-hung toilet and installation makes it easier for even a non-professional to do the work with his own hands.

A common element in the design of all wall-hung toilets is a plastic tank with a flush button, which stands in a steel frame. The design also includes holes for fastening to enclosing surfaces, studs on which the bowl is mounted, and two elbows - flush and drain. And depending on the method of installation and fastening, they distinguish the following types wall-hung toilet designs:

• Block system. This suspended structure, intended for fastening to a load-bearing wall (major inter-apartment or interior partition). No support to the floor is provided. Can be mounted in a niche or attached to a surface. In the second case, it is necessary to fill the space from the floor to the block with bricks so that the bowl does not push through the lower part of the casing of the box or false wall.
• Frame system. Designed for installation near load-bearing and self-supporting walls made of building blocks or frame walls and internal partitions with thin-sheet cladding. The load is taken by supports standing on the floor. Fastening to the wall secures the structure in a stable position.
• A subtype of frame system for installing a toilet in the corner of a bathroom. The legs take the load. The rear part of the system provides for fixation to two adjacent walls located at an angle of 90°.

The dimensions of installations depend on the manufacturer and model.

For example, frame installations from GEBERIT and VILLEROY@BOCH have a standard height of 112 cm and a width of 50 cm; for the GROHE brand, the dimensions are 113 cm and 53 cm, respectively. There are narrow and tall models from WISA (118×38 cm) and SANIT ( 118×45 cm). But you can find low designs - for example, the SANIT company produces a model with an installation height of 82 cm and a width of 53 cm.

A special feature of the frame installation is the ability to adjust the legs in height. It can be increased by 20 cm. And the size indicated in the diagram is given taking into account that the distance from the floor level to the axis of the drain elbow must be at least 22 cm.

The installation depth also does not have a fixed standard. It depends on the volume of the tank, the height and width of the frame and how it passes sewer pipe. At standard sizes and a flush volume of 6/3 l, the minimum installation depth lies in the range of 12-15 cm. If the tank has a function of increased flush volume (up to 9 l), then its installation depth can be greater - up to 20 cm. But the maximum depth (distance from the wall to the edge of the frame) for most models does not exceed 23 cm.

Note. Leading manufacturers equip their installations with tanks with a factory flush setting of 6/3 liters and the ability to set the economy mode to 4/3 liters. For some installation models, the volume of the tank allows you to configure operation in the flush/stop mode with a large volume of water - up to 9 liters.

The dimensions of block systems range from 45 cm to 110 cm in height, the width is usually about 50 cm (from 44 cm to 53 cm), and the depth ranges from 12 cm to 20 cm.

Note. There are block systems with a depth of 8-17 cm, which are classified as frameless installations. The GEBERIT company calls such models - cistern hidden installation. They can be installed in any walls and equipped with floor-standing toilets. The block consists of a tank with mounting plates, a front button and a flush elbow. But if load-bearing capacity walls allow, a wall-hung toilet can be mounted separately from such a block installation.

How to determine the installation location of the system

To choose the right model of installation and toilet, you need to decide on the location.

If we are talking about replacing an old model of a floor-standing toilet with a wall-hung one, then this place has already been chosen taking into account the size of the bathroom and can be left for installing the wall-hung model. The design with a hanging bowl will not violate the ergonomic requirements for the size of passages, minimum sizes on the sides and in front of the toilet.

When installing a toilet installation with your own hands in a new place (during reconstruction or remodeling of a bathroom), the following requirements must be taken into account:

• the toilet should be located as close as possible to the sewer riser to ensure normal angle the slope of the sewer pipe, and the upper edge of the bowl (without a lid) would be above the floor level at a standard height of 40 cm;
• the minimum distance from the front edge of the bowl to the wall, door or other plumbing fixture should be 50 cm, optimal - 75 cm;
• the minimum distance from the center line of the toilet to the side walls, furniture or other plumbing fixtures is 38 cm, the optimal is 45 cm.

Note. Minimum and optimal distances are indicated taking into account the “average” size of a person, which provides comfortable conditions for 90% of plumbing users. For large people, these sizes are selected individually.

There are also recommendations for placing a special accessory - a holder toilet paper. It is advisable that it be located on the side wall, slightly in front - at a distance of 20-30 cm from the edge of the bowl and at a height of 60-70 cm from the floor level.

After choosing a location, depending on the nature of the wall, possible way fastening and hidden installation of communications, choose the type and specific model of installation.

Installation diagram for toilet

Each model has a diagram for installing a wall-hung toilet, which shows:

• general dimensions of the frame - width and height (without taking into account the adjustment of the legs);
• minimum distance from the floor level to the axis of the drain elbow;
• height of the flush key;
• location and height of the water supply pipe to the tank;
• diameters of the drain and water pipes;
• center-to-center distance of holes for fastening the bowl;
• frame attachment points.

Markings for installing the toilet installation are carried out based on this diagram.

How to properly pre-mark

Before you begin installing the toilet installation yourself, you need to make preliminary markings on the wall and floor.

First, determine the vertical, which must coincide with the axis of the frame. There are three options:

1. Separate bathroom without washbasin and bidet. In this case, the vertical runs through the center of the wall on or near which the installation is installed.
2. Bathroom with toilet and bidet. Both installations are lined up. And the vertical axes for each frame should be positioned so that they fall in the center of the selected location, taking into account the ergonomics of the bathroom. Under standard conditions, both axes should “divide” the wall into three equal parts.
3. Combined bathroom. The vertical line on the wall should pass through the geometric center of the selected location.

The next step is to mark the vertical center of the drain key. For a block system, this is the only reference point, and it is usually located at a height of 1 m above the finished floor level. Therefore, you need to take into account the thickness:

• leveling screed;
• heated floors with insulation and their own screed (if provided);
• finishing layer (tile adhesive plus tiles).

At the frame installation standard height this size (1 m) is specified in the diagram, and it is short, then they are guided by the installation height of a particular model.

Further marking is carried out as follows:

1. In the center of the key or the top of the frame, a horizontal line is leveled and the installation width is marked on it.
2. From these points, vertical lines are drawn down. They continue on the floor parallel to each other and perpendicular to the plane of the wall.
3. Mark on each line a distance greater than the installation depth indicated in the passport. The actual size must also take into account the gap from the tank to the wall of 1.5 cm, the method of laying the sewer pipe and its maximum outer diameter at the joints. So, with an installation depth of 12 cm, the minimum distance from the wall to the front surface of the installation is 13.5 cm - if the pipe “goes” under the ceiling, 15.5 cm - if the sewer pipe runs along the wall. And this does not take into account irregularities.
4. Connect the marks - this will be the line along which the places where the legs are attached to the floor are located.
5. Check the perpendicularity of this line relative to the side wall. If necessary, adjust it, making sure that the shortest distance to the wall is no less than the actual depth.

Marking on the wall for a block installation is much simpler and consists only of marking the attachment points to the wall. In accordance with the diagram and focusing on the recommended height of the flush button, beat off from the vertical axis on each side parallel line at a distance equal to half the installation width. And on these lines the points of attachment of the frame to the main wall are marked.

Materials and tools

Even when purchasing the installation, you need to check the completeness. In addition to the frame itself, the tank, the inlet valve and the flush elbow must be:

• drain elbow;
• key;
• fastenings and fastening elements;
• plugs for flush and drain pipes (to prevent debris from getting in during operation);
• gasket for mounting a wall-mounted toilet (sound insulation).

In the case when you are installing plumbing fixtures yourself for the first time, it would be good to find out if the seller has spare parts for installation (if something goes wrong). All leading manufacturers produce spare parts and repair kits for installations - pipes, elbows, inlet and flush valves, membranes, seals and transitions. In addition, there should be an assortment various types fasteners and fasteners, which can be purchased separately.

You also need to purchase a set of pipes to connect the wall-hung toilet to the installation, silicone sealant for joints of sewer pipes and fum tape for installing a stop valve on a water pipe.

To install a wall-hung toilet with installation, you will need the following tools:

• level, tape measure, ruler, construction corner, pencil or marker;
• hammer drill and concrete drills;
• hammer;
• set wrenches(as well as an adjustable or gas wrench);
• screwdrivers;
• pliers.

If you immediately install a frame from a profile for subsequent sheathing with plasterboard, then you also need a tool for this work:

• metal scissors;
• drill;
• knife or hacksaw;
• screwdriver

Features of installation and toilets installation

As mentioned above, there are three options for “installation and toilet” combinations.

Wall-hung toilet with block design

Easiest for self-installation system mounting option - mounting the frame on the surface main wall and installing a quarter-brick wall below the structure to provide a secure stop for the wall-hung toilet. The butt size of a single brick is 12.5 cm plus 1 cm of vertical seam from masonry mortar, and the final 13.5 cm is just right for most models whose installation depth lies within these limits.

Another option is to purchase a block installation, which includes two special floor supports to “support” the wall-mounted toilet bowl. These supports are placed on the sanitary ware fastening pins, and they do not allow the bowl to “fall” back. Such models include Geberit Kombifix (110.340.00.5). If such accessories are not included in the kit, they can be purchased separately, for example Geberit Kombifix stops (457.888.26.1) or Alcaplast mounting kit (M90).

Do-it-yourself installation of a block installation proceeds according to the following algorithm:

1. At the marked fastening points on the wall, holes are made with a puncher, to which the frame is screwed with dowels.
2. Drive in dowels or anchors and screw the frame to them.
3. Insert the tank into the frame and connect it to water pipe(a water supply tube may be included in the delivery package) and to the flush elbow.
4. Screw in the mounting studs to secure the bowl.
5. Connect the drain elbow to the sewer through an adapter pipe (from the kit or purchased additionally).

Wall-hung toilet with frame installation

This is the most common version of the hidden installation design - it is suitable for installation near any wall or partition, regardless of its load-bearing capacity.

Installation of the toilet installation takes place in the following sequence:

1. Holes for dowels are drilled at the marked attachment points to the floor and wall.
2. A cistern with a flush mechanism and a flush elbow is attached to the frame.
3. Install the frame and attach the legs to the subfloor.
4. Adjust it in height and horizontal level using retractable elements supports. The structure is secured with bolts in the required position.
5. Using metal fasteners, the structure is fixed to the wall. Typically these are studs with an adjusting head on the frame side and mounting angles or plates on the wall side.
6. Screw in the pins and lock. Install the mounting angles in place and screw them to the wall.
7. Adjust the position of the frame vertically by tightening or unscrewing the studs using a head (adjustment depth up to 45 mm). The position of the structure is secured with a lock nut.
8. Attach the cuff for the drain elbow to the frame. The elbow is installed, connected to the sewer pipe through an adapter, and fixed to the frame with a clamp.
9. Connect the tank inlet valve to the water pipe using the supplied or purchased adapter.
10. Attach the studs for the hanging bowl.
11. A button and a toilet are temporarily installed. They open the water, test the system for operability, check the tightness of connections and connections.
12. If no problems are found, the button and toilet are removed. Close the holes of both elbows with plugs and begin covering the installation.

Note. One of the features of installing a frame installation is the ability to install it on a finished floor surface. In this case, marking and installation are carried out without adjustments for the thickness of the finishing coating layers.

Floor-standing toilet with block installation

One of the low-budget options for using a block installation system is a hidden-mounted cistern without a frame with a front flush button. Moreover, this option can be used for walls made of any materials. The load from a 6-liter tank can be withstood by a half-brick wall or a frame made of metal profile or wooden beam(if the tank is attached to the frame itself or embedded elements).

The only problem that may arise during installation is the alignment of the flush hole of the floor-standing toilet with the flush elbow of the cistern.

Attaching a floor-standing toilet to the installation

Correct installation of a floor-standing toilet on an installation is only possible if the tiles on the floor have already been laid or there is an exact level of the finished surface. In this case, markings are made on the wall by selecting the center of the flush hole in the toilet as the reference point rather than the flush key. And the installation takes place in the following order:

1. Select a location for installing plumbing fixtures.
2. They mark a vertical axis on the wall. Mark on it the point of connection of the floor-standing toilet to the flush elbow of the cistern.
3. The dimensions of the block installation and attachment points are noted relative to this point.
4. The tank is secured (in a niche, on the wall, in a frame partition).
5. Connect to a water pipe.
6. Install the flush elbow.
7. They make a sewer line (along the wall, in a grooved channel, inside a frame partition.
8. The system and toilet are temporarily connected. Check the operation and tightness of the system.
9. Close the flush and drain pipes with plugs, and the studs with tubes.
10. The installation is covered with plasterboard (with holes for flushing and draining). Or they seal the niche and grooves with mortar.
11. Conduct finishing walls.
12. Connect and secure the floor-mounted toilet.

Installation procedure for a wall-hung toilet

The hanging bowl is mounted after the installation for the toilet has been installed and finished finishing work. And depending on the type of installation, installation method and wall materials, there are the following options for preparation for finishing:

• install a block or frame system and cover the entire surface from floor to ceiling with a double layer of plasterboard;
• install a frame or block system and make a box from plasterboard;
• install a frame system in a frame wall;
• install a frame or block system in a niche and or cover it with a layer of plaster.

After the installation and communications are “hidden” under the rough surface of the walls and floor, finishing is carried out with selected materials (tiles or decorative plaster). Then they begin to install the wall-hung toilet.

Note. It is believed that the maximum benefit from the hidden installation of the cistern and communications is achieved if the installation for the toilet is installed in a niche.

Niche for installation

A niche is made in the wall for installation if the installation depth of the frame, materials and wall thickness allow such work to be performed. And in addition to the niche in the wall, they also cut channels for water and sewer pipes, which, like the installation, must be installed secretly.

Important. This method is not suitable for load-bearing walls made of bricks (for walls made of reinforced concrete, it is technically impossible to make a niche with your own hands). And if the arch of a niche can be reinforced with an insert made of a metal profile (standard practice for an opening), then this option is not suitable for hidden pipe laying - cutting horizontal channels in a load-bearing wall is prohibited at the regulatory level.

And without horizontal grooves, it is extremely difficult to make hidden wiring - only if the pipes approach the niche from below, and before it are laid in a screed or between the joists of a wooden floor.

For a niche in the wall, there is only one option provided by the manufacturer - for a block installation with an attached toilet.

In addition to this option, they also use a bathroom niche in which the water supply and sewer risers pass. In this case, a frame made of a metal profile is installed in a niche, and a frame installation for a wall-mounted toilet is attached to it.

Installation of a frame with a tank in a niche

The complexity of this method is that the installation of the frame in the niche is “non-standard”. The installation instructions from GEBERIT and GROHE do not cover this option, and the kit does not include fasteners for this.

Installation of the frame in a niche proceeds according to the following algorithm:

1. Mark the line for installing the legs on the floor, taking into account the installation depth, the location of the water and sewer risers. The markings must be perpendicular to the walls of the niche or in the plane of the adjacent surface.
2. The verticals on the walls of the niches are set off from this line.
3. Mount reinforced guides of the UA50 profile on the floor, side walls of the niche and ceiling.
4. Install the frame into the profile and fasten it to the floor, having previously drilled holes for the dowels.
5. Set the height of the legs and the horizontal level of the frame.
6. Fasteners (studs or other type of fastening) are made to a specific size to rigidly fix the installation to the “far” wall of the niche. Drill holes for these fasteners and attach the frame.
7. Cut a section of the UA profile to the width of the niche. Attach it to the side profiles and frame.
8. Install flush and drain fittings for a wall-hung toilet. Install studs to secure the bowl. Connect the tank to the water supply and the drain elbow to the sewer. Temporarily hang the toilet and connect it to the installation. Check the system for leaks and operability.
9. Remove the tank, close the flush and drain holes with plugs, and close the toilet studs with protective tubes. Attach plasterboard cut to size to the profiles in two layers.

Sewage supply

Supplying water to the toilet installation does not cause any difficulties. And for any connection of the tank (from the side or from above), lay a rigid or flexible pipe Half an inch is always possible. With connection to the sewerage system the situation is more complicated. The diagram for the installation shows two types of connections:

• the knee goes down at a right angle;
• the knee is rotated 45° in the plane of the frame.

In most cases, the connection of the installation to the sewer system is based on these options.

The first option, for example, is used for direct connection to the drain, when the frame stands in the same niche as it. The second option is used when laying drain pipe to the riser along the wall.

But there are times when both options are not suitable due to limited space and the unique geometry of the bathroom - large diameter Rigid pipes and fixed elbow angles make it difficult to do this correctly. And in order to solve the problem of how to turn a sewer elbow away from the installation and provide the required slope angle, they use, for example, D 90/110 MM FLEXI corrugation from the ALCAPLAST company. But in this case, it is necessary to check the slope of the corrugation.

Connecting communications

To connect to the water supply, the installation kit includes an inlet valve with an external outlet for a ½-inch pipe and an angle shut-off valve inside the installation.

Installations of toilets with a bidet function are supplied with additional handset to the intimate hygiene fitting. And to ensure comfortable temperature, such models are also connected to the electrical network to heat water, which is used for washing. And for this purpose, fastenings are provided for mounting the protective tube of the electrical wiring.

How to check the system for functionality

After connecting to communications, before sewing up the installation, it is necessary to check the operation and the system for leaks. To do this, pre-install the toilet with the following installation:

• adapters with cuffs and sealing rings are inserted into the flush and drain holes of the installation;
• “put” the toilet on the studs and move it as close as possible to the installation so that the adapters fit more tightly into the toilet (it won’t be possible to push it in tightly - the pipes are too long);
• open the shut-off valve on the inlet valve;
• when the tank is full, drain the water (for pneumatics, you need to connect the button and flush valve with tubes, for mechanics, activate the flush valve rod by hand).

After checking and fixing possible malfunctions The toilet bowl, adapters and button are removed.

How to install a wall-hung toilet to an installation

Even when choosing a location and marking, it is stipulated that the height of the wall-hung toilet from the floor without a lid should be 40 cm. But if after laying the tiles it turns out that it will hang 2 cm higher or lower, this is acceptable.

The wall-hung toilet is mounted on studs after adjusting the size of the adapter pipes for connecting the toilet drain and flush to the installation:

1. Remove the protective plugs and tubes.
2. Insert the adapters into the elbows and mark the level “0” on them - the plane of the surface of the installation cladding.
3. Then insert the adapters with the other side into the toilet (put them on the flush sealing cuff). Mark level “0” on the toilet.
4. Shorten the adapters by the difference between the two marks.

Place a gasket on the studs (it serves to protect the finish and dampen structural noise during flush operation) and begin installing the wall-hung toilet on the installation:

1. Rubber bushings are inserted into the holes for mounting the wall-hung toilet.
2. Insert adapter pipes into the drain and flush holes of the bowl.
3. Place the wall-mounted toilet on the studs so that the transition pipes fit exactly into their holes on the installation, and the bowl fits tightly to the wall.
4. Place elastic washers and steel washers on the studs and tighten the nuts.
5. Before finally tightening the fasteners, you can slightly adjust the horizontal level relative to the height of the toilet from the floor.

Installation of the flush button

According to the principle of operation, there are two types of toilet flush button: mechanical and pneumatic.

Even at the installation assembly stage, a flush valve is installed. Each company has its own design, but the principle of operation is common:

• a mechanical button activates the flush using a pull rod, separate for each key - economy mode and full flush;
• For a pneumatic flush, two tubes go from the valve to the button - for each mode there is one.

Installation of the flush button begins with its connection to the flush valve. For a mechanical drive, the rods (pins) must be “adjusted” in length and each connected to its own key, while for a pneumatic drive, the tubes must be connected.

Then the button is “snapped” into the socket.

Common Difficulties

The main problems arise due to the limited size of most bathrooms. This is especially true for strictly residential buildings, when in addition to the small “dimensions” there is added poor geometry of the room - the absence of right angles and parallels in the enclosing surfaces. In this case, even the slope of the wall is checked before installation. And leveling the walls further reduces the room for “maneuver” when installing the installation under the toilet.

Helps you avoid mistakes and rework right choice type and model of installation, as well as accuracy of marking, frame location and compliance with the installation diagram.

And the main condition is careful handling of mechanisms and sanitary ware. Even “re-tightening” the fastenings of the intake and exhaust valves or hanging bowl may lead to leakage of connections or damage to the device itself.

What is important to know. You need to buy installation and plumbing from reputable brands. It is better to do this with dealers or trading companies that have appropriate agreements with service centers and provide a guarantee for the purchased product. In addition, if necessary, you can buy additional accessories or a repair kit for the selected installation model from such sellers.

After purchasing a toilet, many decide to install it themselves. The procedure is very simple and does not require special skills. Increasingly, people are buying in order to save space; there is an additional design - an installation, which ensures that the toilet is attached to the wall. In such cases, installing a toilet installation yourself can raise a number of questions. To provide a complete picture of the work process itself, there is special installation toilet instructions that will help in acquiring all the necessary knowledge.

Let's take a closer look at the entire sequence of work that must be done when installing a wall-hung toilet.

Before starting work, you need to check that you have all the tools that may be needed during the work process. This is a tape measure, a pencil or marker, a hammer drill with drills for concrete, a construction level, spanners and open-end wrenches.

Now you should unpack the box with fasteners and see if everything is available. Manufacturers try to complete their products as much as possible so that a person does not have to buy additional fasteners. Therefore, it is enough to compare the equipment available with the one specified in the instructions.
Let's start the work process.

The first step is to start applying markings that will indicate the mounting location. The location of the sewer drains must be taken into account to ensure the installation procedure is as simple as possible. Typically, the installation system should be located at a distance of 14 mm from the wall.

1. Now you should mark the attachment points of the cistern; usually it is located at a height of 1 meter from the floor level.
2. It is also necessary to mark the mounting points of the installation elements on the wall and floor.
3. After applying the markings, you need to use a hammer drill to make holes in the wall and floor where the installation fasteners will be located, and insert dowels into the holes.
4. Regardless of the type and features of the installation, it will require horizontal and vertical fastening.
5. It is necessary to install mounting anchors into the holes with installed dowels; with their help, the installation will be attached to a vertical plane.
6. When installing, it is important to follow the sequence so that in the future there is no need to adjust the vertical level.
7. Now you can install the installation structure itself and attach it to the levels.
8. It is very important to install the housing in a level position relative to the vertical and horizontal levels.
9. Only after the installation is installed correctly can all fasteners and bolts be tightened, firmly fixing the structure.
10. Now comes the stage at which the sewerage system is connected to the installation and secured.
11. The design was initially equipped with special plastic clamps, this will significantly facilitate the work and speed up its implementation.

After all the work is completed, you need to once again make sure that the installation is securely fastened, that the bolts are properly tightened, and that the structure complies with the levels. At this stage of control, you should be extremely careful; any inaccuracy or poor fixation of the structure can lead to breakdown in the future.

We study installation installation on video

Installation can be done in several ways. For example, to provide structures with higher reliability, people buy special brackets. But the manufacturer of the pendant does not provide for such a design, so the brackets are not included in the package and are not mentioned in the instructions.

Therefore, to understand how the work will differ, you can visit the Internet and watch the corresponding video, which shows all the intricacies of the work process. In the video clip, each stage will be described in as much detail as possible, so that even a person who has no idea about this procedure can cope with the work quickly and efficiently.

The result is a durable and reliable fastening installation of a toilet that will last a long time.

We install it ourselves

When installing a toilet installation with your own hands, a person can use previously acquired skills, instructions included with the design, and video clips from the Internet. There is enough information to get an idea of ​​what the design should look like in the end, and how to achieve the desired result. But, if you have doubts about your strengths, it is better to seek the help of professionals. Using modern instruments, they will quickly cope with this task and in the near future will provide a decent result of the work.

If you think there is not enough information, you can always supplement it and express your opinion in the form below “Your opinion”.

Greetings, my dear readers.

The topic of this article: “ Installation of a wall-hung toilet«.

When purchasing an apartment in a new building or spending major renovation of your home, sooner or later the question arises about choosing new plumbing fixtures.

Scientific and technological progress fills modern human life various techniques and equipment. An irreplaceable item toilet room- The toilet is also being modernized. New look and the design of the equipment will fit perfectly into any interior. Therefore, consumers increasingly prefer a wall-mounted toilet.

Despite the dramatic change in the appearance of the toilet, the item has not undergone innovation in its basic functionality, but the water supply and drainage systems have been thoroughly modernized.

The plumbing item is made in such a way that during installation all elements are hidden, with the exception of the toilet bowl. The drain tank is installed in the wall, and the liquid drain button goes outside. This installation is called hidden installation.

Wall-hung toilets are divided into two types according to the mounting method:

• Block installation

If you plan to install a toilet on load-bearing wall, then the equipment can be installed using a block installation. To do this you will need metal plates and anchor bolts. After installation, communications and the drain barrel are hidden behind a false wall made of plasterboard.

• Frame installation

To install a wall-hung toilet with your own hands on a non-load-bearing wall made of plasterboard or other material, the installation is carried out using a metal frame. Steel pipes welded together, they are attached to the wall and floor. The main load of the frame is determined on the floor. This type fastenings are designed for loads up to 400 kg.

Toilets hanging type vary in size:

• small (length 50 - 54 cm);
• medium (length 54 - 60 cm);
• large (length up to 70 cm).

The width usually varies from 30 to 40 cm. The most best option for most consumers - an average toilet. Small and large sizes less popular, but also in demand.

Manufacturers present model range and more expensive copies with additional functions.

• Anti-splash system provides a certain protrusion in the design of the bowl - a shelf that prevents splashes during operation.

• Microlift system Thanks to the smooth lowering of the lid, it prevents impacts on the toilet body and avoids any damage to the integrity of the device.

• Backflow helps maintain cleanliness and hygiene, water is flushed under the rim, washing away unwanted contaminants.

• Anti-dirt coating an additional layer on the inside of the bowl prevents the formation yellow spots and rust, facilitates the cleaning process.

• Rimless design without any bends eliminates hard to reach places, in which germs hide, allows for easy cleaning.

• Drainage system completely cleans the bowl using two sprayers located on the sides, through which water flows for flushing.

Installation diagram of a wall-hung toilet

Before moving directly to the consideration of the method of installing wall-hung toilets, look at the installation diagram, thanks to which you will see the main dimensions.

How to install a wall-hung toilet on an installation - video

Installation of a wall-hung toilet on an installation

The installation is the structure on which the wall-mounted toilet is installed. Performs the main function of holding the bowl, water supplies and, in some models, holds cistern. It can be purchased either complete with the toilet or separately.

Manufacturers present installation options with bowl height adjustment, which allows the consumer to individually install the toilet to the desired level.

The installation system is divided into several types:

• standard: width 50 cm, height 112, depth 12 cm. Used in rooms where the dimensions of the structure allow the installation of the system
• low: if installation is planned in a place of limited height, for example under a window sill, the installation height is up to 82 cm
• double sided: provides for installation of the toilet bowl on both sides
• corner: the frame is installed in the corner of the room
• linear: used when installing several plumbing fixtures, such as a toilet, bidet

To complete the installation of a wall-hung toilet, you will need a set of tools:

• hammer drill or hammer drill
• drill for concrete and brick with pobedit coating
• screwdriver with bits
• construction level or laser axis - builder
• anchor bolts

You should open the packaging and check the toilet for integrity, absence of cracks and chips, as well as completeness. The box should contain assembly instructions and a product passport, which specifies all the elements included in the kit.

If necessary, by turning off the water supply tap, carry out dismantling work for removing an old toilet.

Before proceeding with the installation, it is necessary to check whether all communications (sewer pipe, water supply hose) are connected for further connection.

• Step 1

The first step is to install the frame. The location for mounting the frame is determined, necessarily on a load-bearing wall. It is necessary to carry out a quality installation frame structure, since the reliability of all equipment depends on this further exploitation. Using a laser axis builder or building level Horizontal and vertical lines are determined for clear installation of the frame.

Markers are made on the wall with a marker through the holes in the frame. Using a hammer drill or hammer in impact mode, holes are drilled at the fastening site. The steel frame is installed and secured with anchor bolts under strict level control.

• Step 2

The next step is work on connecting to the water supply. Tank valve throughout installation work must be blocked.

• Step 3

The installation is then connected to the sewer drain. There are several connection options, the most common is using a special corrugation for connecting toilets.

• Step 4

When the installation is installed, the next step is decorative design- hiding communications by creating false walls made of plasterboard or other material, followed by decoration with tiles.

• Step 5

When the wall is completely ready, the toilet bowl is hung on special studs. After complete connection, the water supply tap opens. A visual inspection is carried out for leaks.

How to install a wall-hung toilet with your own hands - video

Installation of a toilet without installation on a concrete base

There is another option for installing a wall-hung toilet that does not involve installation. In this case, fastening is carried out on concrete base. This method is more budget option, but requires additional work to arrange the necessary foundation.

• Step 1

Wooden formwork is assembled. On the front part, it is necessary to mark in advance and drill the places where the bowl is attached, through which a mark is applied to the wall through the formwork. Next, holes are drilled in the wall into which a chemical anchor is poured. This action will allow the metal pins to be secured to concrete and brick by the force of cohesion and adhesion.

• Step 2

Through the formwork into the wall with chemical anchor pins of the required length are inserted and pressed with nuts to wooden formwork. On the front side it is necessary to glue a small piece of foam plastic, which will later be removed, and the recess remaining after it will serve as a place for the coupling.

• Step 3

It is poured into the formwork cavity concrete mortar(about 40 liters) and left until completely dry (about a week). After hardening, wooden boards removed, remains monolithic base with knitting needles for hanging the toilet bowl. The foam is removed and a coupling is installed in the recess connecting the pipe and the sewer.

The drain barrel is being installed, the wall is being decorated decorative finishing and the system is checked for functionality.

Advantages and disadvantages of wall-hung toilets

Wall-hung toilets are gaining popularity due to their main advantages over:

non-standard appearance allows you to create exclusive interior indoors

thanks to design features saves space

Hidden installation of all communication pipes and hoses will give the bathroom a more aesthetic appearance

free access to floor covering will facilitate cleaning work

Despite the large number of positive characteristics, the wall-hung toilet has some disadvantages:

higher price for the suspension system range

enough complex installation requiring skills in this work

hidden communications create difficult access during maintenance

Conclusion

Despite the negative characteristics hanging models toilets, homeowners prefer to decorate the bathroom, replacing the usual floor-mounted option with a non-standard solution.

If you have the necessary set of tools, work experience, knowledge and skills installation of a wall-hung toilet you can do it yourself and save money family budget on expensive services of craftsmen.

If installation standards and rules are followed, the new wall-hung toilet will last for many years.

Good luck to everyone!

Installations are used to securely secure plumbing units and connect them to water supply and sewerage systems. Such designs allow you to hide all communications and thereby improve the appearance of a bathroom or bathroom. How to install a toilet installation with your own hands will be discussed in this article.

Preparation for installation

Before proceeding with the installation, it is necessary to prepare the site. Such structures are attached to the wall, but the choice of location greatly depends on the type of installation. There are two types:

• block;
• frame

The first option should be mounted in a niche in the wall. This design consists of a plastic tank, fittings and fastenings for the toilet. The latter should only be of the suspended type.

If you purchased a frame installation (which costs more), then the choice of installation location and toilet is at your discretion. Such structures are a frame that is attached to a wall, two walls, a partition or a floor. The toilet and all communications are attached to the frame.

If you have decided on a place, then it’s worth preparing necessary tools and accessories:

• a hammer drill or electric drill, drills that match the diameter of the installation fasteners;
• wrenches for fastening bolts;
• building level, ruler, pencil;
• the installation itself and the toilet.

Now you can get to work.

Installation procedure

How to install the installation will depend on its type. First, we will analyze the stages of installing the frame structure. To install it, you must perform the following work sequentially:

• We make markings for installing the frame. Everything will depend on the installation location. As a rule, the frame is attached with two fastenings to the floor and additionally to the wall or partition. When marking, use a level and plumb line to ensure the installation is level.
• We make holes at the marked points using a hammer drill or electric drill. Dowels are placed in them and the frame is secured. You can use anchor bolts, so the structure will be secured more securely.
• The next step is to connect the water supply to the tank. Here everything will depend on the device of the latter. Tanks with side and bottom entrance are available. When connecting, use a flexible metal hose.
• Now the installation is connected to the sewer. To do this, you can use a pipe or corrugation. Typically, the drain diameter is 110 mm. Now you can temporarily connect the toilet and check the tightness of all connections. The smoothness of the shutter button is also checked.
• Now you need to sheathe the installation. For this you can use various materials. For example, the combination of drywall and ceramic tiles. When carrying out this work, it is necessary to first secure the profile around the perimeter of the installation. Drywall will be mounted on it. Then the tiles are laid (you can learn how to lay tiles on drywall by watching the video below). When performing these works, do not forget about the hole for the drain button. This place is protected by a special cuff that will prevent construction waste get inside.

• After this, the toilet is installed and everything is ready for use. Modern frame installations are universal. You can easily connect a toilet of any design to them. During installation, special studs and bolts are used.
• The installation of a block installation is slightly different. First of all, as in the case of the frame structure, we make markings for the tank. Here you need to follow the instructions for the installation itself. The tank itself is usually installed at a height of one meter from the toilet. The number and location of mounting points will depend on the selected model.
• After marking, we make holes using a hammer drill. Using a drill can make work difficult, because such structures are attached to a wall (usually a load-bearing one). Make holes with a drill without an impact mechanism in brickwork or concrete is quite difficult.
• The next step will be to install the tank and connect it to the water supply. It is also necessary to install special pins for attaching the wall-hung toilet. They are screwed into pre-prepared holes in the wall.
• After this, you can install the toilet and check the tightness of the connections. The last step will be filling the niche. To do this, you can use drywall or other suitable material.

The installation principle is illustrated by the following photos:

When choosing a tank, choose a design with a water saving system. In this case, a drain button with two keys is used. In this case, when you press one button, the water is completely drained, and when you press another, only half of the tank is drained.