How to install a wall hung toilet. How to install or install a wall-hung toilet. Hanging specimens have different parameters
Installation simple toilet is not something complicated. But if the toilet is wall-hung, then the bathroom must be equipped with an additional connecting link - an installation. From this article you will learn how to carry outDIY toilet installation installation, as well as its connection to the sewer system.
While the toilets different brands may differ primarily in bowl shape or surface, the installation may cause many toilet problems in the next 20 years. Indeed, the tank, frame and other elements will be hidden, making access to them difficult.
The modern plumbing market can offer two types of installations.
Important! If the bathroom is located in the center of the living space, away from main walls, then only a frame installation can be installed in it.
Regarding manufacturers, Vega, Grohe and Geberit are considered the most reliable today. But here everything depends mainly on personal wishes. It is important that the model belongs famous brand, which has already proven itself. The installation will be more expensive, but in terms of operation it will quickly pay for itself.
What will be required at work?
To install the installation, you need to acquire the following tools:
Correctly selected tools are already half the success.
Installation must begin with the selection suitable place. If the layout is standard, then optimal place is a niche with risers located in it. The niche itself will have to be altered somewhat, “spreading” the risers to the sides.
Important! Metal risers must be replaced with plastic ones.
Wall-hung toilet with block design
Step one. It all starts with the markup. If we are talking about a small apartment, then the toilet is installed in accordance with the axis of the room, since the area here is small. If the apartment is large enough, then the toilet is tied to the drain axis. This axis must be drawn with a marker.
Step two. The next step is to measure the height. Almost always it depends only on design features frames Points for installing dowels are marked.
Important! Dimensions for this should be taken only from the instructions supplied with the product, because different manufacturers they are different.
It is also important to maintain the correct distance of the dowels from the center of the installation. For example, if its width is 60 cm, then it is 30 cm on both sides of the axis. Holes are made with a hammer drill, and dowels are hammered into them.
Step three. The drain tank is screwed on and the drain hole is twisted (both procedures are described in more detail in the instructions). The presence of all necessary gaskets is checked, after which the tank is connected to the water supply.
Step four. The pins that come with the plumbing fixtures are screwed into the pre-made holes. The distance to which they protrude depends solely on the size of the toilet. It is typical that the pins will be open until the installation is completed - only then is the bowl installed.
The last stage is fixing the drain hose with clamps (if provided for by the design).
Step one. First, the frame is assembled, after which the drain tank is attached to it. The position of the frame is adjusted using screws and brackets located on top. The frames are always sold separately - they are universal, so they are suitable for any toilet.
Upon completion of assembly, a structure with a height of 1.3-1.4 m comes out, while the width depends on the specific model. The maximum load that such frames can withstand reaches 450-490 kg.
Step two. When installing a drain tank, you must adhere to the following rules:
- the drain button should be a meter from the floor;
- toilet - approximately 40-45 cm;
- sewer outlet - 22-25 cm;
- the distance between the fasteners should be equal to the distance between the toilet lugs.
Typically the frame is attached in four places. There remains a small gap between it and the surface - at least 2 cm.
Step three. The assembled installation is installed, and clearly horizontally. To do this, use a plumb line to check the slope of the wall and, if found, a horizontal line is drawn at the point where the plumb line touches the floor. Then a second one is drawn from the line at the distance required for installation of the installation.
The frame is applied to the wall, fastening points are marked. Holes are made. The frame is screwed to the floor, its height is adjusted with screws, and its horizontalness is adjusted with a building level.
Step four. A water pipe is connected to the drain tank. This can be done from the side or from above, but in almost all modern models the connection location can be changed.
Important! It is not advisable to use a flexible hose when connecting a flush tank, since it will last much less than the toilet itself, and replacing it under a false wall, if necessary, will be quite difficult.
Therefore, for connection they are used plastic pipes. The tank itself is insulated with material that prevents moisture condensation. Everything that is required for installation is included in the kit, except that the panel with the drain button must be purchased separately.
Step five. The toilet outlet is connected to the riser. It is often impossible to insert the outlet directly, so corrugation is used. After this, all connections are checked for leaks.
Step six. Before assembling the plasterboard box, you need to do the following:
- close all openings with plugs to prevent debris from entering;
- Screw the pins into the frame to secure the toilet.
All technological holes are cut out in the drywall, after which it is fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws. Drywall is finished with tiles.
Step seven. You can begin installing the toilet no earlier than 10 days after laying the tiles. The outlet is adjusted to the sewer hole, and the place where the tiles come into contact with the toilet is covered with silicone sealant. The toilet is placed on the shifters, the nuts are tightened.
After this, it is advisable to carry out a test drain of water in order to check the tightness.
Step one. The position of the knee is fixed using metal fasteners. The toilet outlet is treated with technical ointment, after which the device is placed at the installation site. Its outline is outlined with a marker, all mounting holes. Then the toilet is removed, and according to the markings made, the mounting angles included in the kit are installed. The toilet is put back, the outlet is pressed into the drain pipe.
Step two. The drain tank is installed according to the instructions. A connecting cuff is fixed at the toilet outlet, the bolts are tightened, and their caps are closed with special caps.
Step three. The drain button is inserted into the made technological hole.
Step four. Finished design checked for leaks.
Video - Installation for Geberit DuoFresh toilet - installation
- If a floor-standing toilet is leaking, check the tightness of the joints treated with sealant. Connections with corrugation are reprocessed.
- To simplify future repair work a technological hole must be provided under the drain button.
- Toilet instability can be corrected by tightening the bolts. This must be done carefully so as not to strip the thread.
- The drain button must be placed between the tiles.
- The cause of the drain tank leak is most likely incorrect installation sealing gasket. To replace it, turn off the water and unscrew all fasteners. The gaskets are corrected, everything is screwed back on.
- The drain should be at an angle of 45°C, otherwise the water will stagnate in the toilet.
- When purchasing an installation, it is better to give preference to a model equipped with a water saving system. Often, such a system provides for the presence of two drain buttons - for complete or partial drainage.
Video - Installation and installation of a wall-hung toilet on a GEBERIT installation
Conclusion
Here, in fact, are all the nuances of installation. The main thing is to fulfill all the requirements, and at the end of each stage, check the tightness of the connections. All detected defects should be eliminated immediately, since it will be difficult to do this later, when the structure is hidden by drywall.
Video – Installation of the GROHE installation
Hanging plumbing fixtures are gradually gaining popularity, especially among owners of small bathrooms. However, not everyone likes wall-hung toilets - outwardly they seem unstable and unreliable. This impression is deceptive, because it is carried out using an installation system that is hidden behind finishing material walls. Let's take a closer look at the advantages of hanging plumbing fixtures and read the instructions for installing them.
Advantages of wall-hung toilets
Selecting and purchasing a toilet with installation
The main condition for purchasing the installation is that it must match the model of the toilet you have chosen. Often, wall-hung toilets are equipped with an installation system initially; it is best to prefer this option.
Take measurements of the niche where the installation will be installed
The installation must match the size of the niche in which it will be placed.
There are two types of installations
Block – attached to the wall using conventional anchor bolts, which are the main support of the entire structure.
Framework – It is a frame with legs, thanks to which the height of the toilet can be adjusted. The frame is attached in four places. An option is possible when all four fasteners are fixed on the wall - this installation method can only be used in the case of solid walls.
If the wall is not stable enough, choose an installation with two fastenings on the wall and two on the floor. The last two fasteners bear the main load.
Pay attention to the equipment included with the device. If the situation is favorable, you will receive the main part (blocks or frames), fasteners, flush keys, sound insulation, flush tank and adapter.
Useful. Read the DIY instructions in a separate article.
Stages of installing a toilet with installation
- We mark the walls. We draw a line - the central axis of the future system. We calculate the distance between the installation and the wall, which will accommodate the sewerage and water supply. We mark the mounting points of the installation and the location of the tank.
- We provide two fastening systems – vertical and horizontal. After marking the attachment points, drill holes and insert dowels into them.
- We install mounting anchors for installation. We mount the installation body using screws and adjusting nuts.
- Now let's start leveling the system. Align by vertical level carried out by adjusting the anchors. Horizontal alignment is achieved by loosening the supporting legs, installing them in the right place and then fixing them.
- We connect the tank to the water supply. The connection can be made both from below and from the side, the main thing is not to use hoses - the connection is made exclusively using a pipe.
- We connect the system to the sewer. If the holes do not match, you can use corrugation, but the service life of such a connection leaves much to be desired.
- Along the edges of the installation frame we strengthen the plasterboard profile. We sew the system with moisture-resistant plasterboard 1 cm thick.
- In the place of the future drain button, install a cuff and a special plug. This is done to protect the hole from debris and dust when laying the tile, and also to ensure that the hole in the tile is neat and level.
- Place the tiles on the wall and wait up to two weeks until the tile adhesive has completely dried.
- Apply to the intended place of contact between the toilet and the tiles. silicone sealant or install a damper gasket.
- We place the toilet on the studs, tighten the nuts and check the connections for leaks.
- We connect the drain button, carefully measuring the levers connecting the button to the tank.
Vertical and horizontal system fastenings
We mark the mounting points
Fasten to anchor bolts
Trying on a corrugation for a sewer pipe
We fix the toilet on studs
Connect and check for leaks
IN lately Conventional floor-standing toilets are increasingly being replaced by wall-hung structures. They require placement in a smaller area and also have a more modern appearance. Therefore, the process of displacement of traditional models by them is quite natural. However, following modern trends has its own negative aspects– more complex installation, longer and more expensive. However, you can successfully get out of the situation if you learn how to install wall hung toilet with do-it-yourself installation.
Design Features
Before proceeding directly with installation, you should understand the design. Installing a wall-hung toilet will become much easier when you know its structure and operating principle. It will immediately become clear how to act correctly and what is necessary.
The main feature of the product is that only the bowl remains visible.
The basis of the entire structure is a durable metal frame. The visible part is directly fixed to it. It is from this element that all installation work starts. The frame must be firmly attached to the wall and firmly placed on the floor. As a result, it should be able to support an adult without any problems. Based on this, we can say that it will not be possible to fix the frame to a weak wall.
The frame has an element that allows you to change the height of the bowl, which is secured using special pins. They are the main fasteners when installing a toilet installation.
A common option is to attach two installations at once - a toilet and a bidet.
The second element is a plastic drain tank. He is also hiding in the wall. It has a specific shape, because must fit in limited space. The tank is also installed in metal frame and is insulated with a special material that prevents the formation of condensation. There is a cutout on the front wall of the tank for mounting a drain button. Modern models, including floor-mounted ones, have a dosed water discharge - 3 or 6 liters.
The next element is the toilet bowl. The only part that is visible and in active use. Has a traditional shape, but in separate designer models original configurations available.
The package includes everything necessary details and devices. The attached instructions can also show the entire installation sequence of the toilet installation.
Advantages and disadvantages
Installation toilets have the following advantages:
- Attractiveness and aesthetics;
- Minimum dimensions allowing maximum free space to be used in small rooms;
- The missing legs and support simplifies the cleaning process;
- Versatility of design, providing a choice according to taste and budget;
- Failures rarely occur, and if they do occur, repairs are not complicated.
The disadvantages include high cost. Taking into account the installation features with the need to carry out additional work, the installation price can exceed up to 2 times the price of placing a floor-standing analogue.
But given the growing popularity, manufacturers have organized the release of relatively inexpensive models that are becoming available to a wider range of consumers.
Another disadvantage is the presence of hidden elements that are not very accessible for maintenance and repair.
Niche preparation
Installing a wall-hung toilet involves using a niche to place the frame. As already mentioned, a certain strength of the walls is required for fastening. The installation design can withstand a weight of up to 400 kg, part of the load from which is transferred to the wall. This issue must be approached with special care.
In order to place the installation, you need to prepare a niche. It should be as follows:
- Height – 1 m;
- Width – 0.6 m;
- Depth - up to 0.2 m.
IN in some cases creating such depth is problematic. In such cases, it is necessary to delve deeper into possible meaning, and hide the remaining elements with plasterboard panels.
By hiding the main part of the device, certain opportunities for decorating and improving the interior open up. It’s not worth it to just place the installation near the wall and cover it with gypsum boards, because... placing a toilet with a conventional layout will be cheaper and easier. In addition, it will take up less space.
Installation installation
Do-it-yourself toilet installation on a special frame fixed to the wall is a more expensive process, but faster and more reliable. The installation will be fastened to the floor and a solid wall.
The technological sequence is as follows:
1. Fastening the metal frame. It has corresponding holes with which it is fixed to surfaces with dowels. Two points for fixing to the floor and two to the wall. Sewage and water pipes. The installed frame must be checked for levelness using a building level. It is necessary to maintain exact parallelism to the wall being installed, because even minor distortions can lead to interruptions in operation and even breakdowns. Horizontal adjustment is carried out using mounts in the wall, which change their position.
This stage also involves setting the height of the wall-hung toilet. It will depend on the height of the residents, usually 0.4 m. The height of the bowl can be adjusted in the future.
2. Leading up to cistern water. You can use a flexible or rigid system. Professionals often use hard, because... it can last longer. Can also be used flexible hoses, but if they fail, you won’t be able to get to them and replace them quickly. During the installation of the liner, the valve tap of the tank, as well as the drain from it, must be closed.
After connection, you should check the reliability of the connections. To do this, open the water supply and start filling the tank. If there are leaks, they are eliminated. Water may remain in the tank.
3. Connection to sewerage. The toilet drain hole must be inserted into the outlet sewer pipe using the appropriate corrugation, but some models can be connected without using it. Upon completion of the connection, the tightness of the system should be checked by test drains. To do this you will need to temporarily screw the bowl to the frame. After this, remove it again, it will be installed at the end of the installation.
The correct installation of the sewer pipe must be completed before the installation begins. Pipe diameter – 100 mm. It must be laid with an appropriate slope. You can read about it in the corresponding article.
4. Closing plasterboard sheets. The installation of a wall-hung toilet must be accompanied by decorative finishing functional elements. To decorate bathrooms, it is necessary to purchase waterproof double plasterboard. It is more durable than the usual one. Sheets need to be mounted to metal profiles and directly to the toilet frame. The installation instructions must have necessary information according to the cutting method, indicating the points for cutting holes.
Sheathing can be done in two ways: over the entire area of the wall or only along the installation plane. The second method involves education small shelf above the bowl, which can be used to place necessary items.
Subsequently, the installed barrier is finished with tiles or panels along with the rest of the room.
5. Finally, it is necessary to install the toilet on the installation, namely the bowl. It should be hung in the appropriate place using two fasteners.
6. Last, most simple step is to install a flush button. They are pneumatic and mechanical. The process is not complicated, because... everything should already be connected to the required opening in the wall. The mechanical button is installed using special pins and then adjusted. For the pneumatic one, you just need to connect the appropriate tubes and everything is ready.
During the activity, it is necessary to especially control the installation process of the installation frame,because the course will depend on the correctness further installation. Figuring out how to install a toilet installation is actually not difficult. It is enough to follow the recommendations of the installation instructions, and in addition watch the corresponding video about the process, and everything will work out.
A wall-hung toilet differs from a classic floor-standing toilet only in that the communications are hidden inside the wall. Only the toilet itself is visible from the outside. The entire rest of the water supply and drainage system is hidden behind the wall. This is called installation.
It is a rectangular metal frame with threaded holes for fastening, and a flat plastic drain tank. The system also comes with a drain key, which costs almost more than the installation itself (TW bronze key 16,920 rubles).
Recently, it was impossible to install a wall-hung toilet in a bathroom, but now, thanks to the huge selection on the plumbing market, you can install a wall-hung toilet yourself. Although many are afraid to install suspended structure, because there are some outdated myths regarding it.
Myths about wall-hung toilets
Myth 1. A wall-hung toilet, if you sit on it heavy man, will fall and break.
The toilet itself, if it is made with high quality, without cracks, can withstand weight up to 400 kg. The only thing that can let you down is a poorly installed installation. It is a welded metal frame square section. The installation is attached to the floor with two bolts of 12 mm in diameter, and also to the wall at a height of 1.2 m above the floor with bolts of the same diameter.
The toilet itself is hung at a height of 35-40 cm above the floor level. One such bolt can support a person, and there are two such bolts, and a pair at the bottom. If you find a 12 mm drill, then screwing in such bolts will not be a problem, and the installation will not collapse during daily use of plumbing fixtures.
