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When and how to plant cabbage seedlings: basic rules. How to grow good white cabbage seedlings at home: methods and techniques Planting cabbage seedlings at home

Cabbage is a very healthy vegetable that should be on our dinner table all year round. But the cabbage group has one biological feature. All species are heavily affected by diseases and pests. In production conditions, in order to obtain beautiful, healthy-looking cabbage heads without traces of disease or damage from sucking and gnawing pests, it is treated 2 times a week with chemicals, which are far from harmless. That's why we encourage you to grow your own cabbage! And you need to start with its seedlings. About how to grow healthy seedlings cabbage, this article will tell you.

Seed selection criteria

In all regions of Russia, early, middle and late cabbage is grown through seedlings. To obtain healthy seedlings, it is better to purchase seed material in specialized stores. When purchasing seeds or seedlings, be sure to choose zoned varieties. As a rule, they have high resistance to pests and diseases. In addition, the seeds are already fully prepared for sowing and will not require extra costs time and money for this. When purchasing seeds, pay attention - the packaging must indicate:

• name of variety and group (early, middle, late);
• growing region;
• date of sowing and planting in the ground (data are approximate);
• approximate harvest dates.

It is best to grow cabbage of all ripening stages in the home garden, and to occupy less area for crops, use thickened plantings.

The technology for growing cabbage group seedlings is almost the same for any region, since artificial greenhouse conditions can be recreated regardless of the growing zone. Therefore, the proposed technology does not focus on the type of cabbage (white cabbage, kohlrabi, Savoy and others), but only on the process of growing seedlings. The main differences in care begin with permanent landing, especially in open ground.

What containers for cabbage seedlings can be?

Cabbage has very delicate leaves that are easily damaged, so you need to think in advance about how you will grow the seedlings:

• without picking;
• with a pick;
• in separate containers;
• in boxes, etc.

Considering the fragility of young leaves, it is optimal for cabbage to grow one plant at a time in separate containers without picking. It should be noted that growing with picking has its advantages in some cases. If the seedlings are sown in early dates and due to weather conditions cannot be transplanted permanently, then picking stops the growth of plants. The seedlings are squat, with a thick, straight stem. It tolerates subsequent replanting into beds more easily.

Cabbage seedlings, 1 week after sowing. © Garden's Gate

Preparing soil mixture for cabbage seedlings

For seedlings, you need a well-aerated, lightweight substrate with a large supply of nutrients, permeable, but sufficiently moisture-intensive. This soil mixture can be prepared from the following ingredients:

• leaf or turf soil as the basis of the soil. You can use both types of soil in equal proportions;
• old mature humus or vermicompost. Instead of these components, you can use high-moor peat;
• To create looseness, add river sand, sawdust, and perlite.

The ingredients are mixed in the following proportions 1:2:1.

You can suggest a simpler composition - 20 parts of turf or clean garden soil without the use of herbicides, add 5 parts of ash (the main source of macro- and microelements), 1 part of lime and 1 part of sand.

The mixture is mixed and disinfected using one of the available methods:

• freezing;
• calcination;
• steaming;
• etching.

The last stage of preparing the soil mixture is the application of fertilizers. For 10 kg of disinfected substrate, add urea or ammonium nitrate 15-20 g, granulated superphosphate 20-25 g, potassium sulfate 10 g and 25 g of lime. If these ingredients are not available, you can add 30-35 g of nitroammophoska to the soil mixture.

7-10 days before filling the containers for sowing, the soil mixture, dried after disinfection, is treated with antifungal (blackleg, bacteriosis, etc.) biological products: phytosporin, alirin, gamair, according to the recommendations. Add the dry preparation “Emochka-Bokashi” or another containing beneficial microflora to the moistened mixture. Beneficial microorganisms help improve the composition of the soil and at the same time destroy pathogenic microflora. Careful preparation of the soil mixture ensures that seedlings with a healthy root system are obtained.

You can read more about preparing soil mixture for seedlings in the article:

Sowing seeds for seedlings

Timing for sowing cabbage for seedlings

• Early varieties we sow cabbage seedlings in late February-early March;
• medium - from the third ten days of March to the end of April;
• late - during the first or second ten days of April.

The proposed dates for sowing cabbage seeds are approximate and depend on the variety, ripening time, lighting, and temperature conditions of the region. When sowing, be guided by the length of the growing season of the crop. Early ripening varieties are ready for harvesting after 90-120, medium - 150-170 and late - 160-180 days. You can sow each type at the same time in one period or carry out conveyor sowing of seeds of each type with a gap of 10-12 days. Then there will always be fresh cabbage salad on the table.

Broccoli seedlings. © Susy Morris

How to sow seeds for seedlings

We fill containers with the prepared substrate: boxes, cups, peat pots and other containers. We sow seeds in boxes in a row, leaving 3-4 cm between furrows, and 1-2 cm in a row. When using a single-nest container, place 2 seeds in the center. After germination, we remove the weak seedling. The seeding depth is about 1 cm. After sowing, we cover the boxes and other containers with film and create greenhouse conditions.

Correct temperature conditions for seedlings

It is very important to obtain healthy seedlings temperature regime soil and air in different phases of seedling development.

• From sowing to germination (5-7 days), we maintain the soil temperature in the improvised greenhouse at +18..+20 ºC, and the air temperature at +7..+9 at night, +8..+10 ºC during the day.
• After germination, when the seedlings are 12-15 days old, we reduce the soil temperature in the daytime to +15..+17 ºC, and at night - to +12 ºC. During this period, the air temperature during the day fluctuates between +8..+10 ºC, and at night +7..+9 ºC.

Picking cabbage seedlings

We plant two-week-old seedlings (phase of expanded cotyledons or first leaf) into cassettes or pots 5x5, 7x7 cm, depending on the variety and development of the seedling. We pinch the root tip of the seedlings and carefully bury them in the soil down to the cotyledons. We pick seedlings according to the 5x5 pattern. From picking to hardening the seedlings, we maintain the soil temperature at night +10 ºC, and during the day +14..+16 ºC. The air temperature is approximately +7..+10 ºC.

Caring for cabbage seedlings

Lighting and watering

If the weather is cloudy, the seedlings need additional lighting. Lack of lighting retards the development of seedlings. For additional illumination, you can use a fluorescent lamp 12-15 hours a day.

The substrate under the seedlings must be moist throughout the entire period of care. Excessive moisture should not be allowed, especially when low temperatures. Weak root system Seedlings with excess moisture are affected by root rot. Therefore, before germination, the soil is moistened with a spray bottle. Thereafter, water moderately once a week.

Cabbage seedlings. © Nic

Protecting cabbage seedlings from diseases and pests

Most often, cabbage seedlings are affected by fungal diseases: blackleg, mucous and vascular bacteriosis, fusarium wilt.

In order not to lose some of the seedlings as a result of diseases, we carry out the following measures:

• water the seedlings with a solution of biological preparations phytosporin, trichodermin or planriz according to the recommendations;
• dry the soil with dry sand or moisture-absorbing mulch;
• reducing the frequency and intensity of watering;
• raise the temperature in the room.

In addition to diseases, cabbage seedlings also need to be protected from pests. More than 6 of their species destroy the crop: cruciferous flea beetles, cabbage flies, cabbage moths, cabbage cutworms and cabbage whites, cabbage aphids, etc.

We treat the seedlings with biological preparations Intavir and Fitoverm in a tank mixture when the first pests appear. With leaf chewers, different types moles, cruciferous flea beetle, whiteweed, bitoxibacillin, lepidocide, dendrobacillin are effective. Chemicals cannot be used on cabbage, as they remain inside the developing head or inflorescence.

Feeding and hardening of seedlings

If the cabbage seedlings are poorly developed, we feed them at the 2-3 leaf stage with a solution of chicken manure or mullein. In their absence, the first fertilizing is carried out with a solution of 20 g of ammonium nitrate, 20-25 g of granular water-soluble superphosphate, 5-10 g of potassium chloride per bucket of water. This complex solution can be replaced by dissolving 30-35 g of nitroammophoska in 10 liters of water. We carry out the second feeding in the same composition after 10-12 and the third (if necessary) after 15-20 days. After foliar feeding, be sure to wash the plants with water and mulch the soil.

12-15 days before planting in the ground, the seedlings are hardened, that is, they are accustomed to development at lower temperatures, greater access to oxygen, and brighter lighting. During this period, the air temperature at night should be no more than +7..+8 ºC, and during the day in sunny weather +14..+15 ºC, in cloudy weather +12..+14 ºC. 2-3 days before transferring to open ground, seedlings are treated with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

White cabbage. © librariansarah

Moving cabbage seedlings into open ground

In open ground early seedlings planted at 45-55 days of age. The plants have an elastic, squat stem, 5-7 leaves with a uniform leaf blade, without spots, a well-developed fibrous-branched root.

Seedlings of medium and late varieties- 35-45 days old, ready for planting, 18-20 (20-25) cm in height, 5-6 true developed leaves, elastic stem, well-developed root system.

Dear readers, the article contains a lot of digital material. But these are average approximate data. In each particular case they will be different, although close in meaning.

" Cabbage

Today cabbage is considered one of the most important and necessary garden crops. It is grown from seedlings at home. The timing of planting and proper care at home largely ensure the quality of the future harvest. Unfortunately, purchased seedlings often leave much to be desired, and they were grown in spite of all technologies. Unknown from which planting material. That is why it is best to plant and grow cabbage yourself, personally monitoring the entire process. And this article will show you the step-by-step process.

The timing of sowing seeds can vary significantly depending on the specific region and its climatic conditions. As a rule, they begin to engage in this business in the second half of March. It's usually late in May. However, it is worth considering the characteristics of the selected varieties, as well as the ripening time. Often gardeners resort to tricks and do not sow all the material at once, but do it gradually (over several days). This allows you to extend the harvest period.

Cabbage grows quite quickly. When sowing early cabbage it must be taken into account that permanent place growth it should be planted at the age of 30 to 40 days. For mid-ripening varieties this period is slightly longer - 40-50 days, and for late-ripening varieties it can even be 2 months. In addition, the seedlings will need up to 1 week to germinate. Over the course of another 1 week, the transplanted seedlings will take root. Thus, you can accurately calculate the timing of when to plant cabbage specifically for your region.

Planting cabbage seeds in boxes

Favorable days for planting cabbage according to the lunar calendar

There are certain days in the lunar calendar on which it is best to sow cabbage. It is believed that if all procedures are carried out at this time, the plant will grow better, suffer less pain and produce an excellent harvest.

For each type of cabbage, as well as regarding the timing of its ripening, the lunar calendar has certain favorable days in every month. This is associated with a certain phase of the moon. This calendar changes annually. The following lucky days are provided in 2017:

White and red cabbage, savoy cabbage, kohlrabi:

Red cabbage:

Broccoli for picking:

Broccoli without picking

Planting Chinese cabbage:

Successful dates for early cabbage are March 15, 25 and 26, for middle cabbage - April 1, 2, and also April 7-10. As for late varieties, they are sown in the same period as the middle ones. During the full moon or new moon, sowing cannot be done at all.

How to plant cabbage seedlings in the ground in May

Cabbage is considered an unpretentious crop. But the future harvest depends on the care and practical skills of growing seedlings. So that it is not scarce, you need to choose the right soil, as well as create the most comfortable conditions for plant growth.

Preparing soil mixture for sowing and growing seedlings

Absolutely all types of cabbage love loose soil. That is why peat must be included in its composition. It can be mixed with sand, as well as humus or rotted compost. You can also add wood ash to the mixture.

Soil for planting seedlings can be purchased either ready-made in the store or prepared independently. Only after the mixture is obtained should it be disinfected. There are plenty of ways to do this. The most common, affordable and simple is to bake in the oven at 200 degrees for 15 minutes.

Sometimes a microwave is used for the above procedure, turning it on full power and keeping for 5 minutes.

The soil mixture for cabbage should be loose mixed with peat

Pre-sowing seed preparation at home and required temperature

Now let's talk about instructions on how to care for the seeds until planting. Regardless of what type of cabbage you are going to plant, the preliminary seed preparation will be the same. The first step is to sort them and select those whose diameter is at least 1.5 mm. After this, gauze is taken, folded into three layers and the selected seeds are wrapped in it.

The resulting package is placed in a thermos with water heated to 45-50 degrees and kept there for 15 minutes. Then the seeds in gauze are dipped in cold water for a couple of minutes, taken out and left in a damp cloth for another two days.

If the seeds were purchased at a specialized store, then most likely they have already gone through all the stages of preliminary preparation and no longer need it. The only thing that is recommended to do is to keep them in damp gauze for a couple of days. This procedure will speed up the emergence of seedlings in the future, since the seeds will already be well swollen and ready to sprout the first shoots.

Cabbage seeds should be correct size without visible defects

Step-by-step sowing technique at home

Seeds are sown depending on whether it is planned to plant the seedlings or not. If you plan, you can sow in a common box or other suitable container.

If picking is not planned, then sowing is done immediately in separate containers (pots or cups, peat tablets).

When choosing the picking method, you need to prepare boxes with a depth of at least 4 centimeters. A layer of prepared soil mixture is poured into them, the thickness of which is 3-4 centimeters. Small grooves about 1 centimeter deep are made at a distance of 3 centimeters from each other. Cabbage seeds are sown in them, the distance between which should also be about 1 centimeter. At the end, the crop is covered with soil.

Proper care of planted seeds

After the cabbage has been sown, the container is placed on a well-lit windowsill. The minimum air temperature in the room should be between 18-20 degrees. After 5 days, the first shoots should appear. After this, the box is moved to the most well-lit place. The temperature should be reduced to 10-12 degrees. Otherwise, the seedlings will become very stretched.

Initially, the seedlings do not increase their growth much, but then the rate increases significantly. Three weeks later, the third leaf begins to appear. It should be taken into account that the temperature regime for cauliflower should be increased by 6 degrees compared to other varieties.

Cabbage seedlings are very demanding on lighting. IN spring period When it gets dark early and dawns late, you need to take care of additional lighting. This can be done using an LED or phytolamp. Daylight hours should thus be at least 12 hours.

Incandescent lamps cannot be used, because there is almost no benefit from their light, but the air heats up additionally.

Plantings need to be watered as they dry out. top layer soil. Lack or excess of moisture can destroy seedlings. To avoid this, the soil should be loosened periodically. Watering is carried out only with settled water heated to room temperature.

As the seedlings grow, they need feeding. A week after picking, you can add a solution of ammonium nitrate, potassium fertilizer and superphosphate in a ratio of 2:1:4 grams per 1 liter of water. After another couple of weeks, you can re-feed, but the amount of fertilizer per liter of water is doubled. If necessary, a few days before planting in the garden, a third feeding is carried out. The proportions are the same as for the first one.

Before planting cabbage, it must be hardened well. To do this, they take her out for several hours every day. open air and under open sun rays. The first takeout is done for an hour, and then the time is increased. Before planting, you can leave the boxes for a whole day. Watering is stopped a week before transplanting to the garden bed, but under no circumstances should the plants be allowed to wither.

Growing your own seedlings is a troublesome task, but it is completely worth it. Only in this way can you get strong and healthy seedlings of a certain variety, as well as harden them well and properly prepare them for planting in open ground. Often, when buying a ready-made crop on the market, we notice that it takes a long time to get sick, does not take root well, and does not subsequently produce a proper harvest. Yes, and with the variety you can miss. You can grow your own seedlings according to all the rules, harden them and get the best results in terms of yield. Yes, and it initially looks many times better than the store-bought one.

Cabbage is a vegetable that has universal application, rich in useful minerals and vitamins. Therefore, even beginners always grow it with pleasure on their plots. The process of growing cabbage does not have any special subtleties. But, in order for cabbage seedlings to properly take root and develop effectively in the garden, it is important to follow all the main stages of its cultivation. How to grow cabbage seedlings at home? Step by step instructions will help you cope with the task perfectly.

How to grow cabbage seedlings at home?

Cabbage seedlings at home - instructions for beginners

The entire process of growing cabbage seedlings can be divided into several steps:

There are some subtleties here: seeds planted early have a chance of dying, but being late can lead to the fact that the seeds will not germinate or will not become strong enough before planting. open ground. Although cabbage seeds germinate quickly, you will still need to wait at least five days from the moment of planting.

Depending on the cabbage variety, determine the time for optimal planting of seeds:

— early ripening variety: as a rule, planted for growing seedlings in mid-March;

- mid-season variety: requires planting in mid-April.

Cabbage grows well in soil that is neutral in composition; as a rule, it is enough to simply mix turf, peat and sand in equal proportions. Regular soil is not suitable for planting cabbage seedlings, since the content useful substances it will be low, in addition, it may contain pathogens of certain diseases. We should not forget about pre-plant disinfection of the soil, for which it is treated with a weak solution of manganese.

To obtain high-quality seedlings, you need to select seeds carefully, selecting only the largest ones if possible. Before planting directly, they need to be wrapped in gauze and placed in a container of water heated to a temperature of about fifty degrees. They must remain like this for at least four hours.

After this procedure, the seeds need to be unwrapped and placed on a saucer in the refrigerator for twelve hours. This technique helps not only to harden the future culture, but also to activate its growth.

To plant hardened seeds, you need to prepare special boxes filled with soil. Cabbage seeds are placed in pre-made furrows, deepened no more than one centimeter, and sprinkled with soil on top. These boxes must be covered with plastic wrap.

Typically, seedlings are planted using two methods:

• With picking, when the planted seeds are planted apart from each other in pots or cups after ten days. This procedure must be carried out very carefully so as not to damage the delicate roots of the seedlings.
• Without picking, the seeds are immediately planted in pairs in separate containers and only if the seedlings of one of them are too weak, they are removed.

Caring for seedlings at home

1. Before the shoots appear, you need to lightly (without removing the film completely) ventilate the boxes.
2. After the sprouts hatch, the boxes need to be moved to a cool (no higher than twenty degrees) but well-lit place.
3. Cabbage seedlings do not require excessive watering; it will be enough to water them as the soil dries out. Moreover, a week before planting in the garden, watering must be completely stopped.

Now you know how to grow cabbage seedlings at home? Step-by-step instructions and our recommendations will help you get a good result. Cabbage seedlings can be planted in open ground only when the bush already has about five to six leaves. Growing cabbage seedlings is almost no different from similar processes for planting and growing other vegetables. It is important to comply with all requirements and good, strong seedlings will certainly please the owner.

See also video:

Planting and growing cabbage seedlings at home

Growing white cabbage usually begins with preparing seedlings. It is almost impossible to grow strong seedlings in a city apartment, it is too hot there, but in greenhouses this is not at all difficult. You just need to sow the seeds on time and put a little effort into caring for the young plants.

Is it necessary to grow cabbage from seedlings?

The question of whether it is mandatory to grow cabbage seedlings is related to two points: what kind of cabbage we are talking about, and in what region we live. The fact is that many late varieties of white cabbage have a life cycle of about six months, or even more. This means that even if you plan the harvest for mid-October, you need to sow the seeds in early April, which is difficult to do directly in the garden bed in the conditions of the middle zone. Early varieties stay in the garden for a much shorter time, but if you sow them immediately in a permanent place, the harvest can no longer be called early.

However, it turns out that even in the southern regions, where March sowing in the garden is quite possible, cabbage is often grown through seedlings; True, they don’t do it at home. They simply sow the seeds thickly in the garden bed and then plant them, that is, they actually grow them through seedlings. For what? The fact is that cabbage heads work out better with transplantation: it seems that the traumatic operation only benefits the seedlings.

Is it possible not to bother and immediately sow the seeds in the holes in a permanent place, and harvest the crop in the fall? It’s possible, they do that too. But often with such a simplified approach, the plants are weaker (their roots do not develop as well), and as a result, the yield decreases. Thus, it should be recognized that growing white cabbage through the seedling stage is not necessary, but very desirable.

When to sow: lunar calendar 2019

You should immediately decide on the order of sowing cabbage seeds of different ripening periods. Not everything is clear here, although there is logic. Seedlings of any variety are planted in a permanent place at the age of 40 to 50 days. If the cabbage is early, then you need to take full advantage of this term and get vitamin products as early as possible. This cabbage will not be stored; the heads of cabbage are usually small, not very dense, and are happily eaten in the form of salads. Consequently, early varieties are sown first. Usually in the middle zone this happens in mid-March, but if there is such an opportunity (southern region or greenhouse), this can be done in February.

Early cabbage has small heads of cabbage, but size is not the point: a spoon is expensive for dinner

Late varieties of cabbage are intended for long-term storage fresh in cellars. Its heads of cabbage reach ripeness in autumn months, even get light frosts in the garden beds, which doesn’t bother them at all: they should be put in the cellar as soon as possible. Therefore, sowing too early is not necessary. However, based on the length of the growing season, it turns out that the approximate sowing time for late varieties falls in mid-April.

Late varieties grow in dense heads of cabbage and stay in the garden for a long time, so they also have to be sown early

Medium-ripening cabbage is grown for autumn consumption (it is stored worse than late cabbage) and pickling, which is usually done in the fall. Therefore, these varieties are harvested in September-October, and in order for them to ripen by this time, the seeds can be sown a little later than in the case of late varieties. Sowing time is around the end of April. Obviously, all the mentioned dates are approximate: in the south they shift somewhat in one direction, and in the conditions of the Urals or Siberia - in the other.

At the end of the twentieth century, a boom began among gardeners associated with the publication various kinds sowing calendars associated with life cycle heavenly bodies. The most popular is the Lunar calendar, which links favorable and unfavorable days gardening concerns with the constellation in which the Earth’s satellite, the Moon, is located.

There is indisputable evidence that the growth of various crops is differently associated with the phases of the moon, but how serious this influence is is difficult to judge: as a rule, approximately the same harvest is obtained from those summer residents who strictly follow the calendars and those who simply have no time to follow them .

Counts,that the periods of the new moon and full moon are prohibited for sowing, replanting and any other operations with plants. These days, the flora seems to freeze and prepare for the change of the lunar phase. If strictly followed Lunar calendar, then in 2019 the following days are allowed for sowing cabbage:

• in February - 21, 22, 25, 26;
• in March - 20, 21, 25, 26;
• in April - 18, 21;
• in May - 19, 24.

It would be sad to look at these dates (but they are given in many authoritative sources!). If they are strictly followed, then the most right time: beginning and middle of April. And if the gardener has to be at work on the 18th and 21st... Fortunately, other publications publish their own versions of the calendar, less strict, and the April numbers in them look like this: April 7, 8, 18, 20–21.

Well, things have gotten better, there are days at the beginning of the month. All this would be funny, but really, after looking at a dozen magazines and Internet sites, you come to the conclusion that many write the way they want, and if this is so, then there is little point in strictly following such calendars. There is time - we focus on the source we like and is trustworthy. No - we sow when it appears free time, based on scientific data and your experience.

Preliminary preparation

Preparation for sowing cabbage for seedlings consists of purchasing and processing containers, seed material and soil. In terms of packaging, nothing special is required. Yes, very convenient to use peat tablets or pots. But cabbage responds well to transplantation, so you can grow it at home even in common boxes. And since picking only benefits it, it is best to prepare small boxes and any cups measuring about 7 x 7 cm. You don’t need anything in the greenhouse: the seeds are sown directly into the ground.

Seed preparation

There are many recipes you can read about preparing seeds. These include sizing, disinfecting, soaking, hardening, etc. Let's ask ourselves: do we have time for all this? If the seeds are collected in your own garden, then almost all of this will actually have to be done. But how many summer residents prepare their cabbage seeds, which they produce only in the second year? After all, it is necessary to preserve a healthy stalk until spring, plant it, care for it... The store now sells seeds for every taste, and in the case of cabbage varieties they are not that expensive.

Yes, until recently there were companies that could hardly be trusted, and instead of cabbage you could buy, for example, turnips. Now most of these organizations have left the market. True, mis-grading does happen, and you may end up with a variety that is not the one you wanted, but, from a quality point of view, the seeds sold are usually quite suitable, and they do not require any additional preparation. Cabbage seeds remain viable for 4–5 years, and fresher seeds are usually put on sale.

Cabbage seeds are medium sized and easy to handle.

It is recommended to carry out calibration by dipping the seeds in salt water. Well, this method is good for light seeds like peppers or tomatoes! In cabbage, almost all the seeds will sink, only the broken ones will remain floating, and there are very few of them. Do I need to disinfect purchased seeds? I haven't done this for many years. But those who are concerned about the presence of infectious agents in the bag can do so. The usual recipe: 15–20 minutes in a dark purple solution of potassium permanganate at a temperature of about 48–50 o C, followed by rinsing.

Many gardeners advise soaking seeds before sowing, including in solutions of microfertilizers. Of course, this won’t do any harm, but it won’t give much effect either. As does hardening soaked seeds in the refrigerator. Cabbage is so cold-resistant that such measures will only take up your time, which in our fast-paced age can be spent on something more necessary.

High-quality cabbage seeds, if they are not found on some treasured shelf and have not been stored there for many years, will sprout without any preparation, dry, and a difference of one or two days will not make a difference to us. Therefore, you should listen to all the advice, but let it pass through yourself when deciding whether to carry out this or that stage.

Soil preparation

But carefully preparing the soil for sowing is more serious, especially if the soil is taken from the garden. At the very least, it is strictly forbidden to take it from the garden where cruciferous vegetables (cabbage, radishes, radishes) grew. To grow a small amount of seedlings, you can buy soil in the store, but if you have something to prepare it from, you shouldn’t waste your money. Moreover, we are only talking about growing seedlings at home, and this is not done often: cabbage seedlings at home are simply very hot.

So, if you plan to sow at home, then the best soil composition is turf land, peat and sand, taken in equal parts. In addition, to a bucket of such a mixture you need to add half liter jar wood ash. You can add a couple of tablespoons of superphosphate, but you can do without it; it’s better to then make up for the lack of fertilizers with fertilizing.

To grow cabbage seedlings, it is not recommended to use humus, even good quality: in this case, it grows more pampered.

The soil you prepare yourself must be disinfected. The choice of method is not for everyone. Freezing the soil is easy, but it does not kill all possible pathogens. Steaming in the oven at a temperature of about 100 o C is more reliable, but at this time it will not be so pleasant to be in the kitchen. In addition, hot treatment kills in the soil and beneficial microorganisms. Probably the best way is, after all, pouring it with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Unlike seed dressing, for soil the concentration of the solution should be lower. There is no point in giving numerical values: how can the average Russian citizen take a 0.5 g sample at home? It should be a pink solution. Not weak pink, but such that the color is quite intense. But through the solution poured into a liter jar, it was possible to discern what was behind it. This is roughly the guideline. It is better to spill the soil with a warm solution, but not hot. So that it becomes visibly wet. After this, it will have to dry out for a couple of days, otherwise it will be impossible to even make furrows for sowing.

The middle solution is suitable for soil disinfection, and the one on the left is suitable for seeds.

How to grow seedlings of early and late cabbage at home

Cabbage seedlings are easily grown in open ground, at least late and mid-late varieties and not too northern regions. At home, in a city apartment, you have to do this only for early receipt products, but growing high-quality seedlings at home is extremely difficult. Best option for most regions - a small greenhouse or unheated greenhouse.

On the windowsill in a house or apartment

If there is a need to grow seedlings on a windowsill, then this should be the coldest and most illuminated window sill in the house. And the owners will have to put up with constantly open windows: a temperature that is comfortable for humans is destructive for cabbage seedlings.

There is no point in immediately sowing seeds in separate pots, unless they are peat tablets. All the same, 10 days after germination, they will need to be replanted by pinching off the tip of the main root: this is the only way to grow relatively strong seedlings at home. Therefore, we sow in a small box. Seedlings can withstand a two-week stay with suitable rectangular cardboard boxes from milk, kefir, juice, etc. If you cut off one of the boxes large sides, and in the second make several holes to drain excess water, you get an excellent container for the first time. Moreover, the sowing container does not need a soil layer of more than 4 cm. The sowing technique is simple, but caring for the seedlings is not so much:

1. We sow the seeds in moist soil, in furrows, at a distance of about 3 cm from each other. The embedment depth is about 1 cm.

   Any available container will do for primary sowing.

2. We fill it with soil and compact it. You can cover it with glass, but they will sprout just the same. We have a few days of quiet life, while the box with the crops can be kept room temperature.
3. As soon as at least a couple of sprouts have hatched, the box is at its most bright light and in the cold: 10–12 o C during the day and 6–8 o C at night. If you missed at least one day, you can throw it away and sow again. Within a day in the warmth, the seedlings stretch up to 5 cm, and they can no longer be saved.
4. If everything is normal with the temperature (only the owners are cold), care is simple: do not overheat for the first week, then it can be a few degrees higher, but not more than 16 o C. Night heat is especially terrible.
5. Water lightly, just so as not to dry out the soil. And as much light as possible! If the seedlings are too dense and are already shading themselves, we don’t wait, we thin them out.
6. While there is time, we are preparing a new home. Individual cups are best, but a larger box with a depth of at least 7–8 cm will also work.
7. In about ten days, the first true leaf will appear above the cotyledon leaves. This is a signal that it is time for the seedlings to dive.
8. The picking is usual: carefully dig up the seedlings. If the root is small, you can hardly touch it, but we pinch the medium and long ones, tearing a few millimeters from the top. We plant it in the hole, press the soil with our fingers, and carefully water it. If we dive into a common box, the diagram is approximately 6 x 6 cm.

   You need to dive early: there should be a maximum of one true leaf

9. For the first few days we put it in partial shade, the temperature is 18–20 o C. Then we return it to a cold, illuminated windowsill.
10. In the phase of two true leaves, we feed with any complex fertilizer according to the instructions for it. A week before planting in the garden, we repeat fertilizing.
11. Immediately after the second feeding, we accustom the seedlings to even harsher conditions, temporarily taking them out onto the balcony.

Seedlings ready for planting should have a stocky appearance, a thick stem and 5-6 succulent leaves.

Good seedlings are short but strong

There is only one advantage to growing seedlings on a windowsill: they are under supervision all the time. But it creates a lot of inconveniences.

Video: growing cabbage seedlings

In the greenhouse

If you have a small unheated greenhouse at your dacha, it is better to use this option. True, you will need to visit the seedlings often: ideally, at least every other day. The greenhouse cultivation of early cabbage seedlings makes the most sense; varieties of later ripening in the middle zone and in the south can be sown in open ground, under temporary shelter.

Sowing early varieties of cabbage in a greenhouse can be carried out at any time, which is determined only by the climate of the region and the current weather: the seeds must germinate at a temperature inside the greenhouse of at least 10 o C, otherwise their hatching will take too long, and under unfavorable conditions, the death of some of the seeds is possible. You can sow either in a box (just like in an apartment) or directly in a prepared seedling bed.

The first method of growing seedlings is no different from growing on a windowsill: the same sowing, the same care, compliance with temperature, humidity and light conditions. But picking is possible both in cups or a large box, and directly in the garden bed, whichever is more convenient for the gardener.

If seeds are sown in a garden bed, the soil in it must be prepared in the same way as for a box: make it loose and safe. It is better to generally replace the soil in the seedling bed, preparing it in the same way as at home: from soil, sand, peat and ash. Before sowing, water it with a solution of potassium permanganate, let it dry, loosen it and sow the seeds according to a convenient pattern.

The latter implies that you can grow seedlings in a garden bed without picking, as long as you strictly observe the temperature. If by the time the real leaves form the seedlings have not stretched at all, picking does not need to be done. Obviously, if you plan to do without picking, you must immediately sow the seeds less often, according to the 6 x 6 cm pattern (or thin out the seedlings after they sprout and grow slightly).

In a greenhouse, seedlings can be grown in both pots and beds

Growing in a greenhouse involves systematically ventilating it by opening doors or windows. The risk of infection with blackleg is no lower than at home, and this disease attacks, first of all, with excess soil and air moisture. Growing cabbage seedlings in a greenhouse is more convenient than at home, but these advantages only appear if the owner can systematically monitor its condition.

Video: cabbage seedlings in a greenhouse

Growing in open ground

You can immediately sow cabbage seeds in a permanent place in the garden bed as soon as the weather permits. To reduce the risk, place several seeds in each prepared hole and, for the first time, cover the holes with trimmed plastic bottle. This approach saves time because it does not require subsequent transplantation, but, as a rule, early spring the soil is still so difficult to work with that it is easier to prepare a small seedling bed than large garden bed for growing cabbage in the “from and to” mode.

Video: growing cabbage in the ground without seedlings

Of course, the possibility of growing seedlings in the garden also depends on when it will be possible to get to the site: sometimes the roads dry out too late. But as a rule, in central Russia in mid-April, sowing is already possible. It is better to prepare a small bed in the fall by digging it well and adding a fair amount of wood ash. Then, on your first spring visit to the dacha, you can only slightly loosen the soil and, making grooves, sow seeds in them.

By the way, rows of cabbage can be alternated with rows of relatively cold-resistant annual flowers: asters, phlox, godetia, etc. If you take a little risk, you can sow “Jolly Fellows” dahlias, marigolds, and salvia.

After sowing, the bed must be covered with plastic film. But it’s better to pull it at a height of 10–15 cm. Ideal for such temporary shelter window frames with opening sashes, which were thrown out in large quantities during the boom in the installation of plastic windows. By nailing boards 10 cm wide or higher around the perimeter of such a frame, we get an excellent portable greenhouse.

It will not be too hot under such shelter, and there is no need to worry that the seedlings will stretch out. No, at home, one day of delay in lowering the temperature leads to the death of the seedlings. In open ground, when we arrive at the site next weekend, we may not see shoots yet, depending on the weather. Well, in another week the shoots will definitely appear; By then it will be warmer, the shelter can be removed.

For the first week, you can cover the crops with any available material.

In open ground, watering seedlings is almost never required: there are enough winter reserves of moisture in the soil. You just need to periodically loosen the soil between the rows and remove weeds. Feeding is advisable: the same as at home, in the phase of two true leaves and after another two weeks. There is no need to dive, but thinning is necessary: ​​in the rows you need to leave 6–7 cm between plants. You can plant seedlings in the garden bed at the usual time.

The advantage of open ground is enormous: seedlings never stretch out. She has enough light and it’s still not hot at all. No need to deal with sowing containers, carry boxes back and forth... Disadvantages? Well, actually, there aren’t any.

Benefits of using cassettes

Let's return to apartment conditions. While talking about individual pots, we completely forgot to discuss what they should be like. But gone are the days when housewives themselves rolled up the semblance of cups from polyethylene film or paper. Now the most economical people collect plastic cups for sour cream, cottage cheese, etc. all year round. It is important that they are not too small: you need a volume of at least 200 ml.

Conventional cassettes are a box divided into cells

But it’s even more convenient to use so-called cassettes: in them, individual cups are combined into a common box-type matrix. They are easy to transport, but each bush in them lives in its own home, and the roots do not intertwine. And the most convenient thing is that they also have removable bottoms. Not entirely removable, but easily pushed out by pressing a finger along with a lump of earth and a bush of seedlings. Seedlings are removed from such cups easily and without damaging the root system. The relative disadvantage (they cost money) is compensated by durability: such cassettes last for many years.

And this is what individual cups with an easily retractable bottom look like: they are also placed in a common tray

Using peat tablets

Peat tablets are compressed peat with added fertilizers and, sometimes, growth stimulants. Available in various sizes: from 2.5 cm in diameter. Before use, the tablets are placed in a tray and gradually poured a large number water. Water is absorbed, the tablets grow upward (they are limited on the sides by braiding) and turn into cylindrical peat containers for sowing seeds. For the seed, a small recess is made in one of the ends.

Water tablets swell and turn into nutrient pots

For cabbage, you need to use tablets with a diameter of 4 cm. Just in case, 2-3 seeds are sown in each tablet, and then the excess plants are cut off. The tray with tablets is kept at room temperature and in the light until shoots appear. Then the temperature is sharply reduced and the seedlings are grown under normal conditions.

The tablets are watered “from below” by pouring water into the tray; required quantity moisture is absorbed into the peat.

There is no need to fertilize: the tablet material contains a sufficient amount of nutrients. Diving when using tablets is not required, but if the roots begin to sprout and intertwine with the roots of neighbors, the seedlings along with the tablet will have to be transplanted into a larger pot with soil mixture. The convenience of using peat tablets is obvious. The only downside is that the tablets are relatively expensive, and it makes sense to buy them only in small quantities.

Features of growing seedlings in different regions of Russia

The technology for growing cabbage seedlings does not depend on the region: the recipes are quite standard. Naturally, the timing of sowing seeds and the location differ: in the south there is no point in sowing cabbage in apartment conditions, but in the north this often has to be done.

So, in the Moscow region, early cabbage seeds are sown at the end of March or beginning of April, and this can only be done at home or in a greenhouse. But late cabbage is sown in open ground as soon as the weather permits. In the Kuban, sowing in the garden is possible already in March, but in Siberia or the Urals - no earlier than the end of April. In the middle zone and in the south, before planting seedlings in open ground, hardening can be carried out (this is a desirable stage), but in the Siberian region it is required.

In the southern regions (Krasnodar and Stavropol Territories, Astrakhan Region) in mid-March it is already possible to plant seedlings in open ground, so sowing seeds in an unheated greenhouse is possible in mid-February. In these regions, on the contrary, it is advisable to finish all things with cabbage in the spring: even adult plants cannot stand extreme heat. But in conditions, for example, Leningrad region Late cabbage, sown for seedlings a little late, may not have time to form properly, so seeds are sown here in March or April, but greenhouse conditions are used for this.

If you observe the temperature regime, give enough light and water in moderation, cabbage seedlings grow strong and healthy. Unless, of course, some kind of infection was introduced with the soil. We have already discussed the issue of pulling out seedlings: if it has grown a few centimeters on the first day, it is better to throw it away. If the stretching is small, you can carefully add clean soil to the roots, lightly water it and immediately correct the flaws with heat and light.

The main danger for cabbage seedlings is black leg. Its first sign is blackening of the root collar, thinning of the stem, and then its drying out. At the first suspicion of a disease, diseased specimens should be carefully pulled out and thrown away, the soil should be watered with a light pink solution of potassium permanganate, and clean river sand should be carefully added to the roots of the remaining plants. Even more reliable means there will be a transplantation of healthy plants into clean soil.

Seedlings that are sick with blackleg cannot be saved, but you can try to save neighboring, still healthy plants.

Sometimes seedlings take on an unnatural blue-violet hue. If this is not a characteristic color for the variety, most likely the color is associated with deviations from the regime. Perhaps there is simply not enough nutrition, and liquid feeding can correct the situation. Yellowing of seedlings may also be due to a lack of any nutrients or errors in watering.

Sometimes the leaves of cabbage seedlings become covered with small holes. There are several reasons, but only one serious one: perhaps the cruciferous flea beetle was brought with the soil. You can destroy it in seedling boxes only by spraying with chemicals: first you can try a relatively safe Bordeaux mixture or even ash infusion. It is not advisable to use harsher chemicals on seedlings.

Other pests of cabbage plants rarely affect seedlings, and if they are detected, it is necessary to study the relevant literature and apply specific chemicals. But if the seedlings are clearly dying, unfortunately, nothing can be done. In most cases, the owner was at fault when he did something wrong. Well, sometimes - pests that accidentally arrived and were not noticed in time. Most often, seedlings die from blackleg. But when grown in open ground, seedlings almost never die.

In our next material you will learn about all the landing rules bell pepper on seedlings and features of caring for them:

Growing cabbage seedlings is not difficult, unless you do it in a warm city apartment. Comfortable conditions for seedlings and their owner are radically different. But if conditions of good lighting and coolness are created, cabbage seedlings grow strong and healthy: other operations when caring for them do not require anything supernatural.

White cabbage is an agricultural plant of the cruciferous family with a two-year growing season. A vegetable is considered to be large, fleshy leaves on a plant in its first year of life, curled into a “head”—a head of cabbage. Cabbage is grown everywhere and is one of the ten most common vegetables on Earth.

There are seedlings and without seedling method s of cabbage cultivation. In the short summer conditions of central Europe, the seedling method is considered optimal. Therefore, since the end of January, gardeners have been faced with the question proper cultivation cabbage seedlings at home.

All varieties of white cabbage can be divided into 5 groups:

• Late ripening;
• Mid-season:
  • Mid-early;
  • Average;
  • Mid-late;
• Early ripening;
• Ultra early ripening.

The choice of seeds depends on the purpose of growing cabbage. For salads and hot dishes, as well as for eating fresh cabbage leaves, you should select varieties with a delicate leaf structure and a high content of water and sugars.

Ultra-early ripening varieties and hybrid taxa have similar characteristics. For example, Lipenskaya, Zhnivenskaya, Orient Express F1, Zemlyanichka F1, Chesma F1 and others. The ripening of these varieties and hybrids takes 50-90 days from the moment of planting. With longer cultivation, the heads of cabbage are prone to cracking.

Early ripening varieties and unstable hybrids ripen 72-110 days after planting. These varieties are different small size heads of cabbage, so early-ripening cabbage actively grows in thickened plantings without loss of yield.

The heads of cabbage are dense or medium density, the leaves have a delicate structure, without bitterness. When overgrown, the head of cabbage may crack. Shelf life: up to 1.5 months in a cool place. Early varieties of cabbage are suitable for salads, hot dishes, and early hot fermentation. Examples of early white cabbage: Dumas F1, June, Rinda F1.

Mid-early varieties - Freylina F1, Ataman F1, Slava 1305. Ripening takes 90-120 days. Mid-ripening varieties - Countess F1, Revenge F1, ripen in 115-130 days.

Medium late - Belorusskaya 455, SB 3 F1 - 110-140 days. Medium varieties are transitional between early and late cabbage. They most often have a delicate leaf texture, a sugar content of up to 10%, and high storage capacity. However, when excessive watering may be prone to cracking of heads. Suitable for both fresh consumption and long-term preservation: pickling, fermentation in any way, pickling. Kochan large sizes, dense.

Late varieties of cabbage most often surpass others in the concentration of vitamins in the leaves. Can be stored fresh for 6-8 months. They lend themselves perfectly to salting, pickling and pickling, especially cold. Ripen within 130-150 days. Examples of late varieties include Megaton F1, Moskovskaya late, Morozko, Dominanta F1.

Seed preparation

Obtaining maximum yield begins with seed preparation.

In the process, the selection and stimulation of the most potentially strong and healthy plants occurs:

1. Calibration and culling of seeds. Carry out in a 3% salt solution (30 g/liter) for 5 minutes. Floating seeds are subject to rejection. The settled seeds are washed with plenty of water, then dried, preventing premature germination by constant stirring.
2. Germination test. At home, it is carried out with a multiple of 25 seeds (if possible, 100 pieces should be used). The tested seeds are placed on a hygroscopic material (cloth, paper napkins or towels, non-woven napkins, etc.), moistened abundantly, covered with a layer of material and placed for 168 hours at a constant 20-25°C. After 72 hours, the energy (friendliness) of germination is assessed; after 7 days, germination is assessed. Seeds are inspected and counted daily, those that have erupted are removed, and the rest are re-moistened.
3. Disinfection of seed material. Carry out to combat bacterial and fungal infections using a 5% solution of potassium permanganate. Exposure should not exceed 2 minutes, then the seeds are washed running water. Thermal disinfection is possible for 20 minutes strictly at a temperature of 48-50°C or at garlic water(30 g crushed garlic per 100 ml water) for 1 hour. For the same purpose, you can use Dimexide 90% with an exposure time of up to 10 minutes. After disinfection, the seeds should be washed cold water and dry.
4. Soaking the seed. The procedure significantly speeds up seed germination. The material is tested for hygroscopicity at a temperature of 20-25°C with irrigation with water (12 hours), complex fertilizers (12 hours), growth regulators (4-12 hours), and ash water (3 hours). Ash water is prepared within 24 hours by infusing 2 tablespoons of wood ash in 1 liter of water. After using ash water, the seeds require washing.
5. Hardening of seeds. The procedure is carried out with soaked seeds, placing them for 24 hours at low temperatures (1-2 °C). For this purpose, you can use the vegetable compartment in the refrigerator.

Preparing the soil mixture

Cabbage seedlings require light and rich nutrients soil.

You can use peat tablets, ready soil for seedlings or prepare it yourself:

1. Mix 5 kg of humus and 5 kg of turf soil with 10 tablespoons of ash.
2. Mix peat, sand and turf soil in a 1:1:1 ratio.
3. Maintain peat and turf soil in a 3:1 ratio for a month at a temperature of 25-30 °C with regular abundant watering; it is possible to use a solution of EM fertilizers. Before planting, add 0.5 kg of pure river sand and 1 glass of wood ash for every 10 kg of soil.

The soil for cabbage seedlings requires disinfection with a 2% solution of potassium permanganate, 1% solution copper sulfate or by calcination. The soil is placed in seedling cassettes, trays or seedling boxes.

When to plant

Sowing time is focused on the timing of the desired planting of seedlings in open ground. If it is possible to use covering materials, the first planting of early cabbage seeds is permissible even at the end of January. But these terms are relevant for the Amur region and the southern strip of the Post-Soviet space.

The seeds of early and ultra-early varieties are sown first. Sowing is carried out at the rate of 45-55 days from the moment of sowing until the seedlings are planted in the garden. For Middle zone sowing of early cabbage occurs in the second or third decade of March, for the southern regions more often at the end of February - beginning of March, and for Siberia and the Urals - from March 25 to April 10.

Medium varieties and hybrids will be most ready for transplanting into open ground when sowing from March 20 to April 25. From sowing to transplantation it should take 30-50 days, depending on the variety.

Late cabbage seedlings are sown during April. For the Middle Zone and the South, it is recommended to complete planting by April 25; in Siberia and the Urals, the end of sowing cabbage seeds is April 15. The ripening of late-ripening cabbage seedlings lasts 50-65 days.

Before sowing, it would be a good idea to familiarize yourself with the lunar sowing calendar.

Step-by-step instructions for growing seedlings

Growing cabbage seedlings at home is possible in two ways: with picking and without transplanting. Seedlings after picking have a larger area of ​​leaves and root system against the background short, but this method requires more effort from the gardener, and some of the seedlings may die.

Growing seedlings without picking is easier, but with this method the plants quickly stretch, so precise calculations are required for timely transplanting of seedlings to the garden bed.

With a pick

Scheme for picking cabbage seedlings

1. Prepare a wide, shallow container with drainage system: container, tray or box.
2. Fill the container with soil and water generously.
3. Sow seeds in rows 1-2 cm apart. Leave the distance between the rows at least 1.5-2 cm. Sowing depth - 1-1.5 cm. The air temperature should be maintained at least 20°C.
4. After a week, evaluate the plantings and thin out if necessary. The area for feeding each sprout should be at least 2 square meters. see Reduce the air temperature to 15°C.
5. Feed with a solution of complex fertilizer in the phase of 2 true leaves.
6. Transplant the seedlings into separate containers with a diameter of at least 6 cm after 3 weeks from the moment of sowing. Before transplanting, water the soil with a 1% solution of copper sulfate. During the process, the growth zone of the main root of each seedling is necessarily pinched, and the seedlings themselves are immersed in the soil to the level of the cotyledons.
7. Re-feed the seedlings with a solution of complex fertilizers a week after transplantation.

Without picking

1. Prepare a container with peat tablets, fill cassettes for seedlings or separate containers with a diameter of 5-6 cm with soil.
2. Water generously.
3. Sow the seeds in pairs in each container, deepening them by 1 cm. Maintain the air temperature at least 18°C.
4. After germination, reduce the air temperature to 10°C.
5. At the stage of 2 true leaves, feed the plants with a solution of complex fertilizers.
6. Thin out the seedlings. In each container, cassette or tablet, 1 most viable sprout should remain.

Aftercare

1. Supplemental illumination of seedlings 15 hours a day with a fluorescent lamp.
2. Moderate watering every 2 days in small portions.
3. Daily ventilation of seedlings. The greatest need for ventilation occurs in seedlings in peat tablets.
4. Weekly prevention of blackleg damage to plants. This is done by watering the seedlings with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate.
5. Feeding before hardening. It is carried out 16-14 days before transplanting into open ground. Nitrogen and potassium fertilizers are used.
6. Hardening of seedlings is carried out 2 weeks before transplanting into open ground. It is carried out by placing seedlings in open space with a gradual increase in the time the seedlings spend outside the room. Accustoms plants to low temperatures, wind and high insolation.
7. Preparation for transplantation to a permanent place. It consists of stopping watering 5-7 days before transplanting. Watering is resumed 2 hours before transplanting.

Secrets useful for growing cabbage

When growing cabbage seedlings at home, from the moment the first true leaf appears, it is advisable to ensure daily air temperature fluctuations of 3-5°C with a decrease at night. This will slow down the growth of seedlings and strengthen their resistance to bacterial damage.

Watering the seedlings must be done with warm water at a temperature of about 20°C.

When a “black leg” appears, the seedlings should be sprinkled with a centimeter layer of calcined sand or wood ash.

Early cabbage seedlings are considered ripe for planting when 7 true leaves appear. Picked seedlings are transplanted into open ground after the appearance of 5 true leaves.