Proper cultivation of watermelons. How to properly grow watermelon at home. Caring for the ripening harvest
Watermelon loves the sun, warmth and moderate watering. In the regions of Russia it is not difficult to grow; the fruits fully ripen during the long summer. In the middle zone of the country, only in the presence of hot sunny weather can delicious food grow juicy watermelon. If the summer is rainy and cloudy, then it will be very difficult to get ripe sweet berries even in protected soil.
The place for melons has been prepared since autumn. The best predecessors of watermelon are wheat, corn, legumes, cabbage, onions and potatoes.
The soil is dug up, rotted manure, old chicken droppings, and sand are added and left until spring. As for the greenhouse, it is also prepared in the fall, adding the same fertilizers and sand.
The best varieties of watermelon of domestic selection
- Sugar baby
- Ogonyok,
- Astrakhan.
Sugar Baby excellent for growing in northern regions Russia, the ripening period from the moment of emergence is 75-85 days. The fruit with sweet bright red pulp weighs up to 4 kg, has a round shape, and the color of the peel is dark green without stripes. The variety is perfect for pickling. Recommended planting pattern 60x100 cm.
Fruit variety Ogonyok have the shape of an ideal ball, excellent transportable properties. Under the thin black-green skin there is juicy bright red pulp that tastes sweet. Average fruit weight is 2 kg.
The variety is mid-season, the ripening period from the moment of emergence is 71-87 days. Recommended planting pattern 60x100 cm.
Astrakhan– the most popular mid-season large-fruited (8-9 kg) variety domestic selection, this is what we see in August on store shelves and markets.
The fruits are round or oblong in shape with a pattern of dark green stripes, have excellent transportable properties and keep for a long time. presentation. The pulp has a rich sweet taste. The ripening period from the moment of emergence is 70-81 days.
Watermelon seedlings
Watermelon can be grown through seedlings and sowing seeds in open ground. Sowing begins at the end of April. The seeds are pre-soaked for about 10 minutes. hot water(50 0C). Then they are germinated in water at room temperature until white roots 1-2 mm in size appear.
Afterwards, the seeds are wrapped in a well-wrung out cloth and placed in the refrigerator for 6 hours, close to freezer for hardening. Now you can start sowing.
The prepared seeds are planted in pots with drainage holes 10-12 cm in diameter to a depth of 4 cm. The pots can be covered with film. It is necessary to maintain a temperature of 23-25 0C during the day and 18-20 0C at night. When the seedlings appear, day and night air temperatures should not exceed 20 0C. Seedlings do not need picking or pinching. At the end of May, the seedlings are ready to be transplanted into the greenhouse.
For seedlings, choose the sunniest place. Some plants can be planted in a nursery, while others can be planted in unprotected soil. Seedlings are planted in a strip method at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other or in holes of 3-5 pieces. To reduce the risk of fungal diseases, many summer residents plant 1-2 plants in holes with a diameter of 1 m.
Growing watermelons need regular watering 2-3 times a week; you should water not only the soil around the stem, but also the entire melon, thereby creating favorable conditions And optimal humidity for plant development. The risk of night frosts remains until mid-June. To prevent the death of young watermelons, melons need to be covered at night non-woven material or agrospan.
The greenhouse must be regularly ventilated and the condition of the plants monitored for suspicious spots on the leaves and fruits.
The holes are carefully weeded, trying not to damage the lashes. It is also not recommended to shift them, otherwise you can provoke shedding of the ovaries.
Pinching of the lashes is carried out once. When the ovaries are 8-10 cm in diameter, 3-4 leaves are left after the second fruit and the vine is cut off. 2-3 lashes with the largest fruits are left on each plant.
As a result, from 4 to 6 watermelons are obtained from each plant. In August, the fruits are turned over every week for uniform ripening. In rainy weather, planks or pieces of slate are placed under them. A week before harvesting, watering is stopped.
Melon crops most often affect spider mite, tobacco thrips and melon aphid. They suck juice from leaves, stems, flowers and ovaries, retarding the growth and development of watermelons. Damaged parts of the plant wrinkle, curl, turn yellow and dry out.
The melon is sprayed with a saturated decoction of onion or garlic peels, a solution laundry soap, looking under each sheet. Watermelons are also dusted with sifted ash mixed with tobacco dust in equal parts.
For better adhesion of ash, 200 g of ash are diluted in one bucket of water, half a piece of planed laundry soap is added and each sheet is processed from bottom to top.
With considerable effort, you can grow ripe, large and environmentally friendly watermelon fruits in your dacha, which you can enjoy without risk to your health. Unripe watermelons can be pickled to create a tasty and unusual snack.
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If you have long dreamed of growing watermelons yourself in your country house or garden in the open ground, but did not know where to start, then this article should definitely help you! A minimum of rules and a little patience - and your hard work will be rewarded!
Contents of the article:
Much has been said about: sweet juicy fruits are indicated for diseases of the heart and blood vessels, kidneys, liver, salt metabolism disorders, obesity and many other ailments. It is the richest source of potassium, magnesium, iron, folic acid, vitamins, acids and pectin substances. However, many are simply afraid to buy watermelons for fear of being poisoned by them. It's no secret that unscrupulous entrepreneurs Growing produce increases the dose of pesticides and fertilizers in order to obtain a higher yield. Naturally, natural is much healthier and safer for our health.
Watermelons are very demanding of heat and light; it is not for nothing that they are considered one of the most heat-loving crops. Seeds will germinate at a temperature of at least 15 degrees, and temperature norm for flowering, a value from plus 18 to 20 ° C (in the morning) and up to 25 degrees in the daytime will be considered. As soon as daytime temperatures drop below 20 °C, plant growth will slow down. Choose seeds of varieties that are not early ripening, but also do not take a long time to ripen. Many summer residents praise the watermelon varieties Ogonyok and Sugar Baby. They differ from other varieties of watermelons with an average size of 4–6 kg and a dark green color without clearly defined lines, the flesh is dark red, and the seeds are black.
Watermelon is drought-resistant due to its well-developed, powerful root system, but at the same time does not tolerate shade.
Growing watermelons: what soils are suitable
Suitable for growing watermelon su sandy soils, warming up in the sun and protected from strong winds. Absolutely unsuitable is soil that is too moist, has a heavy mechanical composition and is characterized by being close to groundwater. The best option- neutral or alkaline soil, but not acidic, where very small fruits will grow, which will have time to crack while still green. Change planting locations every year - this is good for the soil: on next year Instead of watermelons, it is better to plant corn or wheat.
Before planting, the seeds should be soaked in water at a temperature of 50 ° C until they sprout. After this, they are sown in open ground at a soil temperature of 12 to 14 ° C (end of the first ten days of May). By the time of germination it will already warm up to 18 °C.
The first shoots will appear after 8–10 days, which will be considered the norm. If the ground is still cold, the germination time increases and the seedlings may simply die. This can also lead to the development of pathogenic flora in seedlings, which will subsequently negatively affect their development during the growing season.
Hence the conclusion: with unsuitable natural conditions The date for sowing seeds is postponed to the third ten days of May.
Each hole should be filled with ash (1 tbsp), mixed with soil, humus and nitroammophos (1 tsp). In the future, this will increase yields by about 20%. The seed placement depth is 5–8 centimeters. After sowing, mulch the soil surface with humus to prevent a crust from appearing, which can harm the seedlings when they reach the surface.
To accelerate the growth of watermelon, various shelters are used: from simple individual ones to group film ones. At the same time, even simple coverings with film increase the temperature, thereby accelerating ripening by two to three weeks. In addition, with the help of such devices you will protect plants from pests such as beetles.
You can arrange tunnel shelters with frames made of wicker or rolled wire. They are usually removed in early June, on a cloudy day, so that the plants cannot “burn” under the scorching sun. Otherwise, they will weaken or become a source of infection for the mass melon crop.
As for pollination, when grown under a film, it is done manually. To attract bees, you can plant honey plants next to the watermelons or spray the melon with a weak solution of honey or sugar.
When growing watermelons under film, they are watered as they dry out. After removing the covers, watering should be stopped. In open ground, watering stops when fruit begins to set.
IN further care comes down to breaking through seedlings, loosening, weeding the soil, destroying weeds and fertilizing. Do not allow thickening! Melons are very light-loving, so if you want to grow a large and sweet watermelon in open ground - remember that only one plant should remain in the hole - try to keep it per 1 sq. meter there were no more than three landings.
The first thing you should do if you are really determined to grow own harvest watermelons - choose optimal place for landing. The main characteristics of the crop: light-loving, thermophilic and drought-resistant. It is these three factors that should determine suitable site for growing watermelons in open ground.
- Make sure that the place you choose for planting the watermelon is well lit and warmed up throughout the day, and it should also have ventilation.
- The predecessors of watermelon may be early cabbage, carrots, onions and garlic. It makes no sense to sow watermelon again after melons: zucchini, pumpkin, melon or the same watermelon.
- It is ideal if you take care in advance of proper preparation of the soil in the area for planting watermelon. It is best to sow it in a couple of years winter wheat, perennial grasses and sweet corn, which are in the stage of young plants, should be dug up and embedded in the soil.
Our advice:
So that crushed corn stalks and green manure planted in the soil quickly turn into organic fertilizer by digging top layer soil, add 10-15 g of urea per 1 sq. m.
- To prevent the development of root rot, do not return the watermelon to its original location for 6 to 8 days.
- Do not forget that these plants have quite a branched root system, That's why early autumn When preparing the soil, dig the future bed for watermelons deeply and add rotted manure. This will make it easier for the watermelon roots to penetrate into the deeper layers of the soil.
- The melon grower’s efforts do not end with preparing the site. During the entire growing period, watermelon crops should be protected from weeds - right up to the end of autumn.
An adult and well-developed watermelon plant occupies more than 10 cubic meters. m of soil.
How prepare the soil for planting watermelons?
A fundamental factor for success is also the composition of the soil and the presence in it nutrients.
Acidic soils (pH below 6.0).
Problem: excess compounds of iron, aluminum and manganese.
Consequences: toxic effects lead to stunted growth and death of plants for no obvious reason.
Saline soils (pH above 7.5).
Problem: lack of iron, manganese, phosphorus, copper, zinc and boron.
Consequences: violation of the supply of moisture, the impossibility of simultaneous intake of sodium and calcium, necessary for the full growth and development of the fetus. As a result, the fruits crack and rot due to the cessation of apical development.
Solutions for preparing soil for watermelons(for acidic and salty soils):
- adding lime, chalk, eggshells, phosphogypsum;
- selection of the right predecessors
- growing green manure
- deposit organic fertilizers(except for fresh manure in the spring, so as not to attract mole crickets).
Excessively acidic soils can be neutralized with wood ash (at least 0.5 kg per 1 sq. m). It will also provide the plants with the necessary calcium, magnesium, phosphorus and other useful microelements. True, it lacks nitrogen.
Useful tricks:
- pre-sowing tillage (March - April), including mandatory harrowing (does not allow evaporation of autumn-winter moisture);
- triple deep loosening (up to 10 cm);
- shallow “sharing” of the soil before sowing.
Thanks to these simple procedures, you will ensure sufficient warming of the soil and stimulate the development of beneficial microflora of fungi of the genus Trichoderma, which protect young plant roots from fusarium and verticillium blight.
When growing watermelons, it is advisable to refrain from using herbicides in watermelon beds, since their decay products accumulate in the pulp of the fruit.
What prevents you from growing a high yield of watermelons?
Despite the fact that almost all agrotechnical instructions for growing watermelon concern large-scale production in the warmest regions of our country, even in Polesie gardeners, gardeners and summer residents do not give up hope of growing these juicy berries in their beds. However, even southerners do not always get the desired result. To protect you from disappointment, we will name the main reasons for the low or poor-quality watermelon harvest.
- IN southern regions Most often you have to deal with a lack of moisture and damage to plants by melon aphids. “Tired” and depleted soil does not allow the culture to develop fully.
- In the north and west, respectively, the main negative factors will be the abundance of moisture and lack of sun. Due to prolonged and cold rains, the emergence of watermelon seedlings is delayed, and excessive amounts of moisture lead to the spread of root rot. And most importantly: the fruits will not be sweet due to lack of sunlight, because the accumulation of sugars depends on the intensity of photosynthesis.
- Weather surprises cannot be predicted in any region. Spring may be too cold, which will necessitate re-seeding. And they, in turn, having delayed at the germination stage, will develop already during long daylight hours, which is why, most likely, they will poorly form flowers capable of fertilization.
IN recent years A huge number of hybrids and varieties of watermelon have appeared that are suitable for cultivation in open ground conditions not only in the southern regions, but also in cold climates. To grow melons and melons in your dacha, you need to put in a lot of effort and skill. The secrets of preparing seeds, planting and caring for seedlings will help you realize your dream, the result of which will be a large and sweet watermelon.
Site preparation
Choosing a place - important stage planting a watermelon, which largely determines it further growth and yield:
- watermelon loves places with a lot of light; in shady conditions it develops poorly and will not be able to produce high yields. For planting, sunny areas are allocated that must be protected from the wind;
- due to its highly developed root system, watermelons are highly drought-resistant; planting in places with close groundwater is unacceptable;
- For the cultivation of melons and melons, light sandy loam or sandy soils with neutral acidity. In areas with acidic soil, watermelon produces small fruits that crack while still green.
These plants are undemanding to soil fertility; they grow well both on black soil and on poor sandy and rocky soils. However, to obtain large yields, well-cultivated areas are needed. To do this, in the fall, the future planting site is dug up and fertilizers are applied:
- superphosphate, azofoska (according to instructions);
- wood ash (1 l);
- humus (5 l).
The calculation is given for 1 m2 of plot area. Applying fertilizers before planting eliminates the need for regular fertilizing during the growing season of the plant.
For watermelon you need to choose a well-lit place
Step-by-step instructions for planting a watermelon
In order for the preparation and planting of watermelon seeds to proceed correctly, the following steps should be followed.
Seed selection
This is a crucial period of preparation for sowing watermelon, as it largely determines the success of growing and obtaining fruit. The variety of varieties and hybrids allows you to choose the plant most adapted to the growing conditions in your region. Watermelons can differ among themselves in large or small fruits, the speed of their ripening, and have different resistance to diseases.
Pre-sowing seed preparation
Preparing seeds for sowing is an important stage of cultivation vegetable crops, especially during home cultivation, since in conditions of limited space the requirements for plant selection increase.
Calibration
Sorting seeds by size allows you to select the best ones and discard small and damaged ones. Selection is usually carried out manually: seed material is scattered over smooth surface and are divided into large, medium and small. Large seeds, as a rule, contain a large supply of nutrients, which will subsequently provide the plants with good growth and high yield.
The largest seeds are selected for sowing
Warming up and soaking
Warming and soaking increases the rate of biochemical reactions in cells, which improves seed germination and the formation of more female flowers, good growth and the development of lashes.
Procedure:
- The seed material is poured into a fabric bag and immersed in warm water (50–60°C) for 2–3 hours.
- Then it is transferred for half an hour for disinfection into a slightly warmed weak solution of potassium permanganate.
- Remove the bag and allow excess moisture to drain.
- The seeds are placed on damp sand, cotton or paper and left in a warm room. They are kept at room temperature about 2 days before the seedlings appear.
If you bought treated seeds, they cannot be soaked and should be planted directly into the ground.
Germinating watermelon seeds for planting in open ground or for seedlings
Hardening
To increase the resistance of plants to sudden temperature fluctuations and to obtain an earlier and more abundant harvest, seeds are hardened. Most often, seed material is affected in two ways:
- exposure to constant low temperature. For 1–2 days, the swollen and hatched watermelon seeds are kept in the refrigerator at a temperature of 0±1°C with periodic stirring. Such hardening can also be carried out by burying the seed in a small box or bag in the snow;
- exposure to variable temperature. The swollen seeds are kept in the refrigerator for about 12 hours at a temperature not lower than 6°C, then they should be kept warm for the same period of time at a temperature of 18–20°C. The procedure is repeated three times.
Before sowing, the seeds are slightly dried.
Selection of containers and soil
To avoid further transplanting or picking, the seeds are sown in separate pots or containers with a volume of at least 300 ml (minimum container height - 12 cm, diameter - 10 cm). Prepared for planting soil mixture, into which sand is added in equal proportions, sod land and peat. Add to 5 liters of prepared soil:
- dolomite flour and potassium sulfate (50 g);
- double superphosphate (100 g);
- ammonium nitrate (50 g).
Seedling containers are filled with the mixture so that about 3 cm remains between the surface of the soil and the edge of the pot. As the plants grow, soil can be added to the pot.
To avoid further transplantation or picking, the seeds are sown in separate pots.
Sowing watermelon seeds
To know how to plant a watermelon correctly depending on climatic conditions, sowing is done through seedlings or directly into open ground.
Sowing seeds for seedlings
The best time for planting is mid to late April. Sprouted seeds with a root of 1–1.5 cm are sown to a depth of 3 cm, 4–5 pieces in each container, sprinkled with earth on top, watered and covered with glass or film. The pots are placed at the most bright window, preferably southern.
It is important that there are no drafts in the room.
Sprouted seeds with a root of 1–1.5 cm are sown to a depth of 3 cm, 4–5 pieces in each container.
Planting seeds in open ground
Prepared seeds can be sown directly into open ground only in southern regions with a warm climate. The optimal time for planting is when the air temperature is between 12–14°C and the soil has warmed to a depth of 10 cm. It is best to sow in the last ten days of May, at which time the likelihood of cold weather is significantly reduced. In cold soil, the germination time of seeds increases, as a result of which the seedlings may die or become infected with pathogenic microflora. To plant a watermelon, prepare a hole with a diameter of about 1 m and a depth of at least 30 cm, add into it:
- humus or compost (1 kg);
- ash (1 tbsp.);
- nitroammophosphate (1 tsp);
- Add additional sand to heavy soil and mix everything.
Sprouted watermelon seeds are sown in the prepared holes. Before this, approximately 2 liters of water are poured onto the seed planting site. After it is absorbed, 4–5 seeds are laid out at a depth of 3–6 cm, the hole is covered with earth and compacted. The bed is not watered after sowing. To avoid the appearance of a crust, which makes it difficult for sprouts to emerge to the surface, the soil is mulched with humus.
Young seedlings need a lot of water, so they are watered generously as the soil dries, but not more than once every 7 days. The required depth of soil moisture is at least 25–30 cm. Soon after the sprouts appear, the first thinning is carried out, leaving the strongest plants; in the phase of 3–4 true leaves, the procedure is repeated. As a result, 1-2 plants should remain in the hole.
Watermelon grown by direct seeding in the ground is more resistant to stress, including drought and temperature changes, but the crop will always ripen later than that of a seedling crop.
A hole for sowing watermelon seeds in open ground is prepared with a diameter of about 1 m, the soil in it is mixed with humus and mineral fertilizers to a depth of about 30 cm
Seedling care
In order for plants in pots to grow and develop well, they are provided with optimal conditions:
- The daytime temperature should be about 25°C, at night it is reduced to 20°C. Under such conditions, sprouts will appear in 7–10 days;
- The required daylight hours are at least 12 hours. Lack of lighting contributes to the elongation of seedlings and can cause their death; on cloudy days, it is recommended to illuminate the plants with a phytolamp;
- after the seedlings have sprouted, the weak ones are removed, leaving one sprout;
- watering the seedlings is carried out in several stages, avoiding water getting on the leaves;
- in the phase of 3 true leaves, the plant is fed with fermented mullein mixed with water in a ratio of 1:10 (or liquid complex fertilizer).
If these rules are followed, the seedlings will grow strong and healthy and will easily take root in a new place.
After culling weak seedlings, one plant should remain in the pot
Transplanting seedlings into open ground
By the time the seedlings are transplanted to the garden bed, they are 30–35 days old, and the plant has formed at least 4 leaves. 10 days before transplanting to the site, the seedlings are hardened: they are taken out into the open air, increasing the residence time every day. 3–4 days before planting in the ground, the plants are kept on outdoors, and in the evening before transplanting, water it abundantly.
After hardening, watermelon seedlings become more resistant to temperature fluctuations.
In mid-June, plants are planted on permanent place. The transplant is carried out in the morning: watermelon along with earthen lump removed from the container, planted in a hole, then watered and covered with film. The root collar of the seedlings is not buried.
After planting the seedlings, the earthen ball should be completely covered with soil, the root collar of the watermelon is left open
Video: transplanting watermelon seedlings into open ground
Watermelon planting time according to the lunar calendar for 2020
In order for the plant to grow and develop well, it is important not only to prepare the soil, but also to choose the right time for planting. Vegetable growers often resort to help lunar calendar. Favorable dates for 2020:
- Planting on March 3, 10 and 11 will have the most positive effect on the growth of melons;
- in April, favorable times for planting seedlings are the 9th, 15th and 23rd;
- in May, it is recommended to plant watermelons on the 13th, 14th and 20th;
- landing garden crops undesirable on new and full moon days:
- April 8 and 25,
- May 7 and 22.
Planting pattern and depth
There are different schemes When planting watermelons in open ground, their choice is influenced by:
- cultivation method (watering or without artificial irrigation). Plants grown without watering take up less space, so they can be placed more densely;
- watermelon variety (early or late ripening);
- estimated fetal weight (3–5 kg or more than 8 kg). The higher the planting density of watermelons, the smaller the fruits will grow.
When planting watermelons, take into account that the plants grow widely and should not interfere with each other:
- in the garden early varieties placed at a distance of 1.4x1.4 m or 1.4x0.7 m;
- watermelons of mid-ripening and late-ripening varieties are planted according to a 2x2 m pattern; 2.1x1.4 m; 2.1x1 m.
The smaller number shows the distance between plants when planting, the larger number - between the rows.
The higher the planting density of watermelons, the smaller the fruits will grow.
Planting depth seed material in open ground can vary from 3 to 8 cm and depends on:
- on their size (the smaller the seed, the shallower the planting depth);
- type of soil (incorporation is deeper on light soils than on heavy soils);
- soil moisture (seeds are placed on a moist layer).
The seedlings are planted a little deeper than when growing in a pot, so that the root collar is not damaged by winds.
Neighbors and predecessors
To be guaranteed to receive good harvest melons, you need not only to follow the planting rules, but also to know about the compatibility of plants with each other:
- Watermelon does not tolerate gusty winds well. To create shelter, corn, peas or beans are planted around the area;
- all members of the pumpkin family, including watermelon, are compatible with plantings black radish. This plant secretes phytoncides that prevent the appearance of spider mites;
- an excellent neighbor of watermelon is melon;
- it is well compatible with potatoes and oat root;
- corn and peas improve the growth and taste of watermelons;
- sow thistle and pigweed promote the growth of melon plants;
- watermelon grows well next to greenery plantings (parsley is an exception);
- Tomato phytoncides drive away aphids, sawflies and moths.
All representatives of melons grow very strongly, so it is better to plant crops next to them that give an early harvest.
Planting some plants next to a watermelon negatively affects its growth and productivity, so you must approach the choice of neighbors responsibly:
- melons grow well in open, sunny areas, so they are not planted next to trees and shrubs that shade the area;
- watermelon does not like the proximity of strawberries and representatives of nightshades (potatoes, tomatoes, eggplant, peppers);
- it extracts large amounts from the soil minerals, therefore, growing watermelon next to beets, carrots, garlic and radishes is not recommended;
- Watermelons should not be planted together with related plants - pumpkins or zucchini, as well as cucumbers.
An important agrotechnical technique is crop rotation. When alternating melons and melons at intervals of 3–4 years, the number of pests and diseases, as well as weeds, is significantly reduced in the field. It is not recommended to grow watermelon in one field for more than 2 years in a row; the optimal predecessors for it are:
- winter wheat,
- perennial herbs,
- corn for green fodder,
- radish,
- dill,
- basil,
- tomatoes,
- celery,
- roots,
- cabbage.
It is strictly not recommended to plant melons in an area where melons, squash or zucchini previously grew. After harvesting the watermelon fruits, it is better to plant this area with legumes (green beans, peas) or garlic.
Methods for planting watermelons on the site
Depending on the climatic conditions of the region and the availability of free space, watermelons are grown in different ways.
In a bucket
In this way, watermelon can be grown at home. To do this, first seedlings are grown in a small pot. Further work carried out like this:
- Prepare a bucket with a volume of 16 liters (you can wooden box size 50x50x30 cm).
- The container is filled with fertile soil with neutral acidity, mixed with perlite in a ratio of 2:1. This will protect the soil from stagnant water.
- After the third true leaf appears on the seedlings, the plant along with the earthen ball is transplanted into a bucket.
- The optimal daytime temperature is 25–30°C, night temperature is 18–20°C. Such conditions are created in spring and summer on a closed balcony.
- Watering should be moderate; watermelon does not like waterlogging.
- The soil is fertilized every 2 weeks. Suitable for this liquid fertilizers for vegetables (add 1 tsp of fertilizer to 1 liter of water). Only fresh solution is prepared for irrigation.
- At the stage of ovary formation, a second feeding is carried out with an increased content of potassium and phosphorus, and after 2–3 weeks - a third.
- The side shoots of the watermelon are pinched, leaving only the main shoot.
- During the flowering phase of watermelon, artificial pollination is carried out: male flowers with stamens are picked, the petals are removed and the female flowers (with a thickening at the bottom) are pollinated, touching the stamens to the pistils.
- After fruit set, no more than two berries are left on the plant, the rest are removed.
- Fruits about 10 cm in size are placed in a net and tied to a support.
After about three months, you can harvest a harvest of delicious berries weighing about 1 kg.
According to the author, this method can be considered more as a hobby than a way to obtain delicious berries. In apartment conditions, it is unlikely to provide the plant with optimal temperature conditions, except perhaps on the balcony during the hot summer. A watermelon grown at home is unlikely to delight you with the aroma and sweetness of the pulp. For those who decide to experiment, I advise you to make a drainage hole at the bottom of the container to protect the roots from waterlogging. And to determine whether a watermelon needs watering, it is recommended to slightly lift the bucket with the plant, basing its weight on the soil moisture.
On the trellis
In the southern regions, melon plants are cultivated in open ground, in which case they do not require staking. When grown in northern regions with a cool and humid climate, trellises can be used. This is especially true for small plots, where there is little light and moisture stagnation is likely. In such places it is recommended to grow watermelons of small-fruited hybrids and varieties:
- On both sides of the beds, a support at least 1.5 m high is dug in, and ropes or twine are pulled between them.
- TO taut ropes others are tied, which go down to the plants and serve as a support for the watermelon stems, determining the direction of growth.
- The end of the lowered rope is secured to the stem of the plant or to the ground.
- The main stem is tied in a vertical direction, the top is not pinched. All side shoots are removed, since female flowers are formed mainly on the main stem.
- The grown fruits are placed in nets, then individually tied to a trellis so that they do not fall under their own weight.
With the formation of 2–3 fruits the size of chicken egg the remaining ovaries are removed, since more watermelons will not have time to ripen.
The trellis is suitable for small areas where there is little light and moisture stagnation is likely.
Under covering material
Cultivating watermelons under covering material has now become especially popular. The additional costs of film are offset by the advantages of this technology, including:
- protection of seedlings from weeds in the early stages of growth in open ground;
- reduction of daily temperature fluctuations;
- accumulation and retention of soil moisture.
The use of covering material can reduce the period of fruit ripening by 7–10 days. This method is especially relevant in short or humid summers and can be used in several ways:
Spunbond can be used to cover plants directly along the vines, protecting them from possible frosts.
Features of planting watermelons in different regions
Watermelon - heat-loving crop, which requires a fairly long growing season. This should be taken into account when cultivating in regions with different climatic conditions.
In the southern regions (southern Ukraine, Krasnodar region, Transcaucasian republics) watermelons are traditionally grown open method, which is facilitated by a large number of warm and sunny days necessary for the growing season of the plant and the rapid development of fruits. After preparing for sowing, the seeds are planted directly in open ground.
In the northern regions of Ukraine, the amount of heat is not enough for the fruits to ripen, so watermelon seedlings are first grown.
In regions with moderately cold and harsh climates ( Leningrad region, Moscow region, Siberia, Far East) the watermelon harvest will always be moderate. To obtain it, you must strictly follow some rules:
- Only early ripening varieties are chosen for planting;
- to ensure acceptable temperatures, watermelons are grown in greenhouses, and in conditions middle zone- also in open ground under a film (spread);
- planting is done through seedlings in pots;
- so that the roots grow wider, the plants are watered not at the root, but along the grooves dug in the middle of the row spacing;
- No more than 5–6 fruits are left on one plant to obtain large berries- 1–2 fruits, put a board under each to prevent them from rotting in cool conditions.
For cultivation in the northern regions, only early ripening varieties of watermelons are chosen:
- for the Moscow region:
- Sugar Baby
- Crimson Sweet,
- Skorik,
- Light,
- Producer,
- Astrakhansky,
- Top gun,
- Chill;
- for the Leningrad region:
- Kharkovsky,
- Light,
- Rose of the Southeast,
- Skorospelka;
- for the Urals - the same varieties as for the Moscow region, as well as:
- Pink Champagne F1,
- Gift to the North F1,
- Creamstar;
- for Siberia and the Far East:
- Crimson Wonder,
- Crimson Sweet,
- Ultra early,
- Light,
- Siberian.
The average period of fruit ripening for the middle zone is about 70–80 days, the fruits are medium-sized – from 2 kg to 4–6 kg.
Hard work and knowledge on planting and caring for watermelons will definitely reward you with delicious and healthy berries. You can grow watermelon even in the northern regions, you just need to choose suitable variety and don’t be lazy to make a shelter.
Watermelons – heat-loving plant. However, they are grown not only in southern countries. In mid-latitudes, in order to obtain big harvest it is necessary to provide the berries with almost ideal conditions, but this is quite feasible. Growing watermelons in open ground, the subtleties of choosing a variety and planting will be described below in the article.
How to choose a variety?
The variety is selected depending on the climate and local conditions. Hybrids develop very well in different climatic zones: “Honey Giant”, “Skorik”, “Gift of the Sun”, “Suga Baby”, “Prince Albert F1”, “Sugar Baby”, “Williams F1”, “Ogonyok”. They ripen quickly and are not afraid of minor frosts.
In southern latitudes, the following varieties can be used for planting: “Ataman F1”, “Spring Bush 334”, “Volzhanin”, “Astrakhansky”, “Kholodov’s Gift”, “Yubileiny”, “Vostorg”, “Kholodok”, “Black Prince”.
Where can you plant watermelons?
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Growing watermelons in open ground is possible only in certain areas of the site.
- The main rule is the sun. Culture needs solar heat, light. Watermelon will not grow in the shade.
- Groundwater must be located at a considerable depth. Excess moisture will harm the roots, they will rot, and the plant will disappear.
- Type of land – light sandy or sandy loam. But this is ideal. If there is no such variety on the site, you can choose a variety that is less picky in this regard or provide frequent fertilizing and loosening.
- Soil acidity – 6.7-7.0 pH. In this regard, there will be fewer problems, since the acidity can be “adjusted”.
- The best predecessors are wheat or alfalfa. If they have not previously grown on the site, then you can choose any place where melons and nightshades did not grow last year.
How to prepare seeds and seedlings for planting in open ground?
Depending on the area in which watermelons are grown in open ground, they are planted with seeds or seedlings. The second option is used in the northern and southern lanes. Such a plant will take root much earlier, grow and bear fruit, so before the first frost it will be possible to harvest the crop and even have time to process it.
If seeds are used for planting, it is necessary to warm them in the sun in a bag for 10 days before planting. Ideally, the temperature inside the bag (if it’s dry) should reach +55 degrees Celsius, and if it’s humid, then +30 degrees. After 10 days, you need to fill the seeds with water for 30 minutes, throw away the ones that float, and fill the settled ones with warm water (+50 degrees). When the water has cooled, you need to drain it and soak the seeds until they hatch.
2 days before sowing the seeds, an ash solution is made at the rate of 1 part ash and 2 parts water. While the solution is infused, the seeds are disinfected in a dark solution of potassium permanganate for 15 minutes. After this, they are soaked for one night in the prepared ash solution. The next morning, the water is drained, the seeds are washed and dried.
It is recommended to grow seedlings in peat pots. At the end of April, a mixture of peat, humus and soil is poured into them in a ratio of 2:1:1. The seeds are soaked in water (+50 degrees) for 10 minutes, then deepened 1 cm grain by grain into a glass and sprinkled with earth. The room with seedlings must be at least +25 degrees, otherwise the seeds will not hatch. Fertilizers are applied to enhance growth as needed.
How to plant watermelons correctly?
Growing watermelons in open ground begins with preparing the soil. The land for watermelons is prepared in the fall, it is fertilized with manure (4 kg per 1 sq. m.). Watermelons do not tolerate fresh manure, and besides, it can lead to the formation of fungal diseases. And if you cultivate the land in November, then the manure will rot over the winter and will not harm the crop.
Seeds are sown when the soil temperature reaches +16 degrees. They are planted at a depth of 6 cm, density - 10 seeds per 1 linear meter. It may seem thick, but not all the seeds will sprout, and if all of them do, they can be planted. After planting, they are sprinkled with earth and watered with warm water. The first shoots can be expected after 1 week.
Seedlings are planted in open ground 30 days after they grow in peat pots. By this time, the seedlings should have approximately 5 leaves. To reduce stress during transplantation, hardening is carried out a week before planting. During the day, temperatures drop to +17 degrees, and at night to +15.
The seedlings are planted in separate holes - 8-10 cm deep. First, compost is added to them and watered. When planting, the root collar should protrude 1 cm from the ground so that hilling can be carried out later. The hole is filled with dry soil.
How to care for watermelons?
Growing watermelons in open ground requires regular care from the moment of sowing seeds or planting seedlings.
